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Table legs made of chipboard. How to make a country table

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial carpentry skills, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.

What to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle a jigsaw does not pose a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required to make them in a high-end design (item 4). Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at least half an evening. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a shield kitchen table top:

How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.

Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.

The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.

To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.

Very simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, it is placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the tabletop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the tabletop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without pedestal

Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.

First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the beam expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and cheburashki

The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.

One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

As in a bedroom without a bed, so in almost any other room, whether it be a living room, a kitchen or even a hallway, you cannot do without a table. Actually, in the bedroom, he will not be superfluous. And it is better to have several of them at once - for different purposes. So that there is somewhere to put a night lamp, where to lay out notes and books, install a laptop, or even just have a bite to eat or even do something more spicy.

Buying a "desk" is not difficult, the choice is now large, but making it yourself is a matter of special sophistication. Such a home-made item of an apartment “wardrobe” will be valued much higher by both the owner and guests, and it will be more pleasant to use it.

This is not an easy task, but it is also simple, requiring, however, a certain aesthetic taste and carpentry skills. But do not be afraid and immediately retreat. It is quite possible to cope with this task, the main thing is to imagine what you want.

Advantages and disadvantages

A homemade product has both its advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages:

Variability. You can do with your own hands what you really need. In all aspects. This is complete freedom in the choice of form, material, texture, size, design.
Saving. Buying in furniture stores will cost significantly more. In fact, for the same or even worse quality, you will sometimes have to pay many times more money.
Uniqueness. What is done by hand, no one else will do. This will allow you to create a stylish and original, and most importantly, a unique interior almost anywhere - in the country, in an apartment, in your own house.
Improving skills. Working on a table is an opportunity to practice your locksmith and carpentry skills, to learn a whole range of new things. These skills will come in handy when repairing finished store products in the future.

Having a better understanding of the design of the tables, it will be possible to more professionally approach the choice of such products in retail outlets, or even discover a source of additional income. And in general - it will always be possible to help relatives and friends fix something, bring a fresh idea to the design.

However, the independent production of tables is fraught with certain difficulties. Among them:

Time consumption. Be prepared to spend one or more days working, and in the case of a large item, even a week. The maximum, as the masters admit, is 10 days spent on a large table. In fact, you can spend the whole vacation tormented with the material and achieve very meager results. Therefore, it is better to have a psychological readiness for difficulties during the first experience.

Injury hazard. Working, especially with wood, is fraught with splinters. When working with old material (beams, boards from fences), you need to be extremely careful. But in some cases, even work gloves may not save you from small cuts. Too delicate hands are better not to do such things.

Manufacturing defects. The house is still not a workshop, and it can be difficult to make some calculations - hence the roughness and unevenness on a product that seems to be ready and verified to the smallest detail. Well, if the table is made for giving, but in a standardized room the result can become the subject of offensive jokes and just look out of place. For the manufacture of an impromptu "bureau" or other structures more complex than an ordinary table, skills and some experience are still needed. It would be time to earn it.

Need a tool. If it is not there, everything is simple - you have to buy and master it. Time is already money, and there are additional costs at the first stage. However, in the long run, such an approach will lead to savings - the next table will be made almost for next to nothing, especially if there are stocks of material in the country.

Not suitable for all styles. You need to be careful to experiment with homemade products in modern interiors, for example, high-tech, where metal and technological materials “rule the ball”. It is difficult to work with them, and wooden products can disrupt the harmony of the room.

A little advice. If you decide to make a table, and this is the first experience, try to find a good adviser who will psychologically and with the help of his skills support the undertaking. You can take the first steps together, and then go on a free “flight”.

Assembly Features

There are many types of tables. The most common are writing, computer, toilet (with or without a mirror). Desktops differ depending on whether they are designed for a laptop or made for a desktop computer. In the latter case, you will need a special space for the system unit - it can be installed both under your feet and at eye level.

Each of the options has its own advantages that affect the design of the table. In the first case, the system unit will not get in the way at hand, but it will not be very convenient to connect USB ports to it from behind. When designing, you should leave a significant open space behind the table, do not put it near the wall. If the system unit is located on top, the bureau should be as stable as possible, and the table top should be made of durable, reliable material.

If there is a goal to design a desktop for a student, including a collapsible structure, it is reasonable to build drawers for notebooks, textbooks and CDs into it. An alternative is a separate shelf above the structure. Drawers can be either drawers or open shelves. The backlight is up-to-date.

Tables can also be angular, transformers; height-adjustable, collapsible, on wheels.

All these are not frills, but practical design elements. Among the more complex options, for example, river tables with a beautiful, often transparent material built into the middle part are popular. Their production will take more time and require higher locksmith skills, however, it will allow not only to upgrade your working “skills”, but also to make a real interior artifact. Each of the types of tables has its own assembly features and specifics. Consider some of the most popular, simple and affordable options for creating a table that do not require the heights of technical training, but allow you to create high-quality and interesting products that do not look awkward or poor even in a modest interior.

Instruments

But before you start carpentry manipulations, you need to decide what and with what you plan to work. You need to get down to business in full "instrumental" readiness. Do not be afraid, nothing rare and particularly complex will be required - only the usual working arsenal, which is always at hand for a real man. So, let's list the main ones. You can’t do without the “classics of the genre” - nails, screws, a screwdriver, a planer, a hammer, glue (instantaneous is also useful), a knife. In some cases, you can use a saw (in nature). Do not forget about work gloves and disinfectants. Be sure to have iodine and cotton swabs with you, unless, of course, the goal is to make a table, and not to get sick with tetanus.

The fact is that when sanding wood (with sandpaper or other device) it can turn out to be very “unfriendly” and just stand up with a pile. When working with metal, more metalwork tools are needed. And in any case, it is better to get eye protection - a special working mask. For the subsequent processing of the material and its cleaning, a brush and disinfectants, including those against insects, are also useful, especially when using old wood. You can also clean the table with sandpaper.

And, of course, you need varnish or paint for final processing. You may have to varnish the countertop several times (after the first one, the pile will simply stand up), which means that it is better to buy it with a margin.

Popular materials

One tool is obviously not enough. There is something, but nothing to work on yet. The main thing, of course, is the material. Theoretically, a table can be made from anything, but there are subtleties. The most popular is wood, but it must be dry! If it is not dry, dry it; it will take time, but for the sake of the quality of the product, in this case, do not rush anywhere.

A table made of dry wood, logs, timber is a wonderful and reliable element of the interior. Beautiful, functional and affordable. On this option, it will be possible to save a lot if there are inexpensive bars or logs at hand - they are stored, for example, in the country. In stores, good wooden tables definitely do not belong to the category of the cheapest.

Wood is trending right now. This is the main eco-material. You can’t do without it in interiors tailored to the natural style. In fact, it is wood in one form or another that is played up in all classical interior styles, up to colonial or modern.

You can make a bureau from chipboard. The material is composite and quite affordable. But it has a lot of downsides. Chipboard is afraid of moisture - no longer an option for the kitchen. It does not hold nails and screws well - unnecessary difficulties in the work. And in general, it is not very environmentally safe - it is better not to keep too many chipboard products in the apartment. Nevertheless, such a table can be placed, for example, in a house or on a veranda in a country house - as an inexpensive, temporary option - for the season, for receiving guests. Inexpensive, simple and moderately aesthetically pleasing, and most importantly - functional.

Let us clarify that laminated chipboard is also on sale - also wood and shavings, only laminated in a special way - with a polymer film at high temperatures, or even with a special varnish that provides increased water resistance. Chipboard is more expensive, but such boards are practically devoid of all the shortcomings of chipboard.

However, the use of plywood will be no less practical. There are many types of it - there are also moisture resistant ones. This means that the range of applications is wider. In Russia, this material is gaining popularity and is also massively exported, which indirectly indicates its quality. Plywood is quite easy to process and not too expensive. Of the minuses - its facelessness, dull texture and the accompanying feeling of unnaturalness. In addition, when working with plywood, it is necessary to carefully approach the preparatory stage. Without a sketch, a drawing is indispensable. You can use both ready-made projects, and make it yourself.

The easiest way is to make a table from a furniture board, for example, ash. This is a little more expensive, but at the same time it will ensure the reliability of the main part of the table - the table top. Less worries with polishing, but at the same time somewhat less naturalness and texture.

An extreme alternative is the use of natural wood: stumps (by the way, they can be used on their own, but this is already a designer chic) or saw cuts. With them, everything is exactly the opposite. You will have to grind and varnish it yourself several times, but in the end you will get a completely unique unique product that all lovers of “natural” design can appreciate, unless, of course, after gatherings they leave without a few splinters in various places.

Often in the design of the table, glass or special optical glue, plexiglass glue, is used to replace it. You can also buy just impact-resistant glass - although it will come out more expensive. It's stylish, effective and safe. This material is optimal for small oval coffee tables, but recently it has been increasingly used by designers in models with right angles.

We also add that the legs and base can be metal. You should not be afraid of the combination of wood and metal - with a competent design, it can be not only harmonious, but also very interesting. In modern interiors, loft and hi-tech, sometimes you can’t do without it. In addition, metal is effectively combined with glass or its analogues.

Kitchen table

This is an absolutely necessary element of the interior. It should be comfortable, comfortable and stable. The surface of the tabletop is often of no fundamental importance - usually it is covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth. When making it yourself, it is important to pay attention to the lower parts of the structure so that you can sit at the table without problems, and you can always place your legs comfortably.

A good DIY dining table can be made in just a few days. According to home "masters", even very beautiful large models took them no more than 7-10 days. Any material can be used - the easiest way to work with chipboard, plywood and wood. The main thing is that the beams and boards are even and well sanded.

Carefully study their dimensions, bring them to the norm if necessary - it is hardly advisable to make a kitchen table more than 80 cm in height. The shape and size of the countertop will depend on the interior and the availability of free space in the kitchen.

The table, although the main element of the interior in such a room, should not occupy the entire place. Therefore, especially in small kitchens, it is practical to make it square - you can approach it from all sides, and more than four people behind it are still unlikely to fit. In large dining rooms, on the contrary, it is better to stay in the classic rectangular format.

An oval or round tabletop will also look interesting, especially if you choose beautiful curly legs for it - this, however, will require good carpentry skills.

When working on a standard wood model, fasten the beams or boards with the planks at the bottom under the tabletop. A practical option with plywood. It is better not to use chipboard - there is always high humidity in the kitchen, and something is accidentally spilled regularly, and this material, as you know, does not withstand the influence of the water element.

An interesting idea would be to create a sliding table. In this case, the fasteners must be flexible. But you can do it easier. Still, making a sliding table in the format of one design with your own hands is not a trivial task.

Therefore, make two small rectangular products of the same dimensions. During the day, they can be moved to different parts of the kitchen or even an apartment, and moved before eating together, thereby forming a large table. A very practical option for small kitchens. When manufacturing, pay attention to the lower parts - partitions and beams should not interfere with each other when connecting tables.

If the kitchen is very small, you can make a folding table. Assemble the countertop and attach a special bracket to the wall. Such a “desk”, as a rule, has only two legs, which means that they should be placed so that at least three people can fit behind it at the same time. Another option is to build a small cabinet for storing dishes and food instead of one of the legs. This is the perfect way to save space.

When designing a table with a sink, it is better to seek the help of a professional. It will not be difficult to make sketches and the main structural elements, but the main thing is that they do not interfere with the passage of pipes under it. So you can't do without a locksmith and a plumber.

At the final stage, it is better to process any table. How to cover it and how to decorate it is a matter of taste. It can be varnished and covered with a tablecloth, or even trimmed with special tiles or even stone. The field for experiments is large.

Many color palettes, including bright ones, will fit into the interior of the kitchen. Do not be afraid to make the table red, yellow or green - it is fashionable, pleasant and aesthetically pleasing, it will create a good mood when cooking, eating and communicating with household members and guests.

And one more tip for kitchen tables. If you want to design a product with a drawer, make the design of the latter as reliable and airtight as possible so that moisture does not get there. Assemble it from several boards or planks and securely fasten them with special glue or nails. When using plywood, it should ideally not be thicker than 20mm.

High-quality grinding and processing is important, including against insects. Remember that the kitchen, as a place to store food and prepare food, is a favorite environment not only for cockroaches, but also for various arboreal and moisture-loving insect species, especially in hot climates.

For computer

The table for the computer should be compact and functional. It is always better to design it with a margin. There are two main concepts:

Table for desktop computer. If the technique is powerful, for example, gaming, you will have to make the table long and wide enough. A monitor will take up a lot of space on it. A diagonal of 20 inches and wide screen rotation means the user is mobile at the table, which means that there should always be a place to put your hands. A separate measurement should be made taking into account the dimensions of the keyboard.

Other devices should also be placed on the table - a mouse, joysticks, gamepads, or even a game role. Part of the space will be occupied by the system unit. It can be installed at the bottom of the table - for this you will have to make special ceilings so as not to put the equipment on the floor. The table should not be closed - high-quality cooling is very important for a powerful computer, and open space will provide the necessary air circulation.

At the same time, the design of the table is of no fundamental importance - in any case, it will be forced by technology. The main thing is to use high-quality varnish and paint so that the surface is smooth, it is easy to wipe it and it does not accumulate a lot of dust that is dangerous for equipment.

For laptop. When measuring, keep in mind that both the computer itself and the hands of a person working or playing behind it should fit on it. Often, a full-fledged keyboard is also separately connected to portable computers, so it is better to use material with a margin. Leave room for the mouse too.

We add that almost any shape of a computer table can be made. Previously, there was an opinion that it should be rectangular, but practical experience has shown that oval tables, in particular for laptops, are a very interesting solution. If you attach wheels to them, turning them into an analogue of a coffee table, you can easily move with a computer around the room - show videos to friends from convenient angles or, conversely, if necessary, quickly and quickly immerse yourself in work or correspondence away from prying eyes.

However, a table with right angles has some specific advantages. It is easier to equip it with drawers and shelves for storing books and CDs. Do not forget about the reliability of fastening these structures, since the weight of a music or game collection can reach 7-10 kg.

night table

It is better to make a night table extremely compact. Dimensions are not his strong point, the main thing is the convenience of the form. First of all, adjust the dimensions of the materials to the height of the bed. It is better to make it flush with the level of the mattress, but it's okay if it gets lower. A tall night table is not too impractical, although it is found as an example in some design schools. If aesthetic qualities are more important to you, it is reasonable to experiment in this direction. In this case, you can choose any shape - from oval to rectangular and square.

The design concept should be included in the composition of the bedroom interior. For classic styles of materials, it is better to choose wood. Moreover, in the case of retro and historical styles, the more authentic it is, the better. If you have skills in artistic carving, then in this case it's time to use them. In modern interiors, a wooden product will also be relevant - if necessary, the texture will be hidden under varnish, paint or a tablecloth. The color scheme depends on the color of the room. The color should be in harmony with the bed, linens, and ideally with the floor and ceiling. Radical contrasts are out of place here.

Particular attention when working on a night table should be given to its stability. The leg can be made big. If there are several of them, they should turn out to be absolutely identical. Please note that not only an alarm clock or a table book is placed on the night table, but sometimes they rely on their hands - it should withstand such loads without problems. The table can also be equipped with several drawers, or, if the level of technical skill or the specifics of the material does not allow, with an open shelf.

Coffee table

In many houses and apartments, the habit of laying out newspapers and magazines on the coffee table has already become a thing of the past. They were replaced by new means of communication - various gadgets - from iPhones to laptops. But they also need to be placed somewhere, even if just put on charge. Before making such an interior item, it is better to immediately determine its functionality.

The main thing is to learn one simple truth: no one works for magazine "bureaus" - at best, they earn extra money, so they should be low, aesthetic and comfortable for a relaxed pastime. And it is aesthetics that come first. Your guests will remember, first of all, the design and material of the table. Another point is functionality. It is good if such a table has a space under the tabletop where you can put something.

So, as materials it is better to take chipboard or boards. They should be collected on dowels with the utmost, maximum accuracy - so that the junctions of the elements are not visible.

An additional crossbar will make the table more stable and reliable. If the design incorporates metal (legs), a welding machine will be required. A rectangular metal element can be placed in the base. Do not forget to strengthen the sidewalls in the same way. A very common option with glass (or transparent glue). Such tables are often found in offices, waiting rooms and other "guest" facilities. However, as the experience of many designers shows, it fits well into home interiors.

When manufacturing, it is important to pay attention to a wooden or metal base - it will be visible under glass! Cruciform shapes work well. Do not forget that glass can also be used simply as an additional component. For example, close them part of a classic wooden table. It is advisable to equip the resulting already light object of the interior with wheels. Such a “mini-transport” will be especially relevant in a large living room, as well as in an apartment where there are always a lot of children (then, however, you should not experiment with glass once again). It is a good and useful item for fun and leisure.

But the mobile table should be light. Massive - it is better not to equip with this “bonus”, but to make it from durable heavy overall boards. It will ground the interior, make it more collected.

There is also an option with a table-transformer. It is practical, but not always aesthetic. However, if you make a double (in height) base, then it can even be used as a conditional easel. We add that coffee tables, as a rule, are still small and are usually designed for one, maximum, four people. Sizing is purely personal. Only the height is fundamental - it can vary from 40 to 60-80 cm. Do not forget also that in some situations the product can also be used as a bookcase in combination - for this you will need to make shelves and compartments that meet your needs.

With regard to the color scheme, let's say the contrast of the table top and legs. The combination of metal and wood looks good. You can draw a picture on the surface or make an unusual ornament, but it’s easier to just cover it with something - you don’t have to repaint the products every time you change your mood and taste. And one more thing - about the form. Magazine furniture can be both round and rectangular-square - a matter of taste. Round products are used more often because they are safer and more democratic.

The knights of King Arthur, after all, also sat at the round table, so in the living room, the place of reception and gathering of guests, each of whom often wants to show their individuality and initiative, it is better to do without seats at the head of the table and other patriarchal delights, and for children are safer - once again they will not hit.

Summer cottage furniture

A holiday in nature is a wonderful pastime, however, in order to really have a good rest and sit in a company, you need a high-quality and comfortable table. Such furniture is very specific. On the one hand, it must withstand high humidity - if it is standing outdoors in the rain, on the other hand, it is very unpretentious in terms of aesthetic qualities and always gravitates towards naturalness. In nature, a glass table or an expensive metal product will be inappropriate.

So, before you start making such furniture, you need to decide on an important point: where it will stand and how mobile it should be. Basically there are two options:

Fixed outdoor table. Typically, such structures are placed near the garden house or away from it in comfortable places to relax - under an apple tree or other fruit tree. The main thing is that such an exterior item be durable and reliable, stand on its “legs” as firmly as possible. It is reasonable in some cases to even dig the legs into the ground. The surface can be anything, but preferably wood.

The main thing is to remove pile and shavings from it, as they can lead to unpleasant and deep injuries or just a splinter. Please note that the surface must be moisture resistant - the table will regularly get wet in the rain. In cases of heavy rainfall or just a long absence in the country, it is better to cover it with something, say, oilcloth. This will not save you from high humidity, but it will protect you from direct contact with water.

Movable table in the country house. As a rule, this is a more compact option. It can be used indoors, taken out to the veranda or outdoors. The main emphasis in self-manufacturing is best done on the use of lightweight materials so that it can be carried.

Wheels are unlikely to help much (the landscape in the country is not always even), although they can also be attached, but this will make the structure less stable. A good bonus would be the ability to push or assemble the table. For the winter season, such a table can be completely folded and put into the attic so that it does not deteriorate.

What is better to make a table for giving? Pallets, boards, old logs, for example, from an already unnecessary or dilapidated fence, partitions from boxes, an old tire, or whatever, can come in handy. It is better not to use glass and not to abuse metal. The latter tends to rust: this is not so scary, but aesthetically it can spoil all natural harmony, unless, of course, there is a desire to create an entourage of a post-apocalypse.

Boards for countertops in the country are best fastened from below with the help of planks. There is another option with gluing - this is a more time-consuming technology, after processing it will be necessary to pull off the boards and keep them in this state for about a day. If the material is old, it is better to arrange it by color, align it stylistically with color.

Light - to light, dark - to dark, with interweaving of color contrasts closer to the center. Don't strive for perfection with constant alignments - naturalness doesn't have to be symmetrical. The next step is to sand the surface. Better to do it with sandpaper.

When working with legs, the main thing is to make them the same length - otherwise there will be little pleasure in eating at such a table. It is important that their surfaces are not beveled, but even. However, if you dig your legs into the ground, and there is no saw at hand, you can always compensate for a couple of centimeters, but only as a last resort.

Then, after designing the design, the countertop must be varnished. After the first time, the pile will probably rise, so we process it twice. For reliability in the lower part at the final stage, you can make an additional support-mount. It will make the structure more stable and allow you to comfortably position your legs.

In continuation of the work, you can also attach benches to the table - make them part of a single structure. It is better to connect the bench to the table with special wooden planks using nails or long hairpins. For reliability, you will also need washers and nuts. The seats themselves are made according to a similar principle, only their height, of course, is lower than the table, and the mounts should be even more reliable - it is better to make cruciform ones.

The final step is painting. Gray, brown, natural tones look good. Bright colors look too eclectic, unless you have a modern country house design, and instead of trees, artificial vegetation.

And a few more words about the size. As a rule, country tables are long, but not too wide - so it is easier and more convenient to approach them. Do not install them too close to bushes, especially thorns, gooseberries or cherries, it will be painful to approach them.

The distance from the fruit trees must also be reasonable, otherwise you can repeat Newton's experiment, but this is unsuccessful. The height of country tables, as a rule, is made average, since both adults and children usually sit at them. So with built-in seats it is better not to overestimate the design.

How to arrange lighting

This question is relevant both for small night tables and for working products on which a computer is installed. You can put a small floor lamp on the night "buro", it is reasonable to stretch the wire with the switch to the bed so that each time they do not reach for the table and do not drop the lamp in the dark. On a desktop, it makes sense to use a table lamp as well, but as we experiment with homemade designs, other more interesting possibilities emerge.

If you make a small “add-on” above the table from several panels - plywood and chipboard, securely attach them with nails, then under them you can install an ordinary light bulb, or better, an LED. It will be more efficient to use two or three small spot LEDs. They will provide high-quality and uniform lighting.

A child who studies at the table, and even an adult in the process of work, will be able to read at any time without problems. To work at a computer (so that the light does not shade the screen), it will be possible to turn on only one point of illumination, which is reasonable to place a little to the side - it will become a source of subdued light.

Among modern design concepts, there are also options for lighting tables from below, through the design of the countertop, however, it will be problematic to cope with such a complex “technical task” without a qualified electrician, and the practical benefits of such structures leave much to be desired.

The choice of light temperature for almost any table design is purely individual and depends more on the place of use. In classic small bedrooms, warm color combinations will be relevant.

In the interior of the kitchen, on the contrary, cold shades will fit more harmoniously. Much depends on the style. Hi-tech, for example, is often imprisoned precisely for a cool range. Accents in the classic, colonial style and some variations of the loft, on the contrary, are best placed on the warm segment.

Forms

The table can be made absolutely anything, completely carved-carved, but the design has already developed several classic and practical shape ideas. Among them:

Rectangular. It was these tables that were popular in almost all historical eras. In Russia, the boyars gathered behind them, they served as a place for a meal for peasants in huts and the basis of tavern life.

In Soviet times, they were slightly pushed back by other forms - square, designed to minimize living space as such. Now rectangular tables are no longer associated with the ideas of dominance and patriarchy, but have retained their immanent massiveness and hardness. Most often used in large rooms. Suitable for summer cottage, living room, spacious kitchen.

Square. Products of this form allow you to perfectly organize the space. Their use is reasonable and economical. In addition, it is always possible to move such tables. Often there are folding models that turn from square into rectangular.

It is not easy to make such a product on your own. However, you can simply make two identical tables. Let us clarify that in terms of a home-made approach, it is square and rectangular tables that are suitable for the “pen test” of novice masters. And it’s easy to make, and the field for experiments is wide.

rounded. A round or oval piece of furniture is suitable as a coffee or night table. This is an ideal shape for apartments where families with children live, as it avoids unpleasant collisions with sharp corners. It is technically more difficult to make them, but the most unexpected items, for example, car tires, can always come to the rescue.

Designer forms. Table edges do not have to be even. Sometimes they are made curvilinear. Products can be rounded on one side, having right angles on the other. Triangular patterns are becoming more and more popular.

For example, in the kitchen it will be advantageous to look at a table that is rectangular in relation to the seats and rounded towards the sink and cabinets. Guests will be able to sit comfortably, and the hostess or host, while treating them, will not constantly bump into corners. Naturally, the manufacture of such models will require higher technical skills. The main difficulty will be how to cut a suitable shape. This also imposes some restrictions on the materials used - beams, boards and logs in many such structures are technically inapplicable.

How to make from improvised materials

Sometimes it’s hard to restrain the fantasy, then very interesting options for improvised “desks” are born, which can be used both in nature and in modern high-tech interiors and not only - even at work. It is not difficult, for example, to make a table from a car wheel, or rather, tires. Attach chipboard to it on one side - a little less than the radius, and on the other - legs. You can decorate the side surfaces and the lid to your taste.

If you drag the table with fibers or ropes, you will also get an ottoman - two in one at once. To create more effective fasteners, stock up on liquid nails. The cover of such furniture can be made removable and subsequently stored in the "wheel" whatever your heart desires. With a competent approach, such a hiding place will completely become a mini-safe, where you can protect things at least from children, and not every unlucky thief who breaks into your home will guess such a little trick.

Nobody bothers to collect old boxes into a useful design: you get a kind of interesting labyrinth table. However, here you need to be very careful - many craftsmen who posted their creations from boxes on the Internet turned out to be something more like an urn. To avoid this, do not leave too much free space in the center of the design.

Another, perhaps even more extreme option is to design a table based on an old suitcase. Such Soviet colossus is waiting for the hour of its disposal on many balconies of the country, and perhaps now is their finest hour. Just do not rely in the literal sense of the word on exceptional Soviet quality - it is better to strengthen the product with sheets, for example, plywood. You will need more legs and wheels.

Disinfect the product before starting work. At the final stage, it can be varnished, painted or pasted over with a cloth. This option is suitable for colonial and various retro styles, and in general it will look at least original in any room. With benefit in working on the table, you can also use old frames - the main thing is to strengthen them well. With adequate design, you can achieve all the benefits of the effect of pop art style.

A loft-style pallet table will decorate almost any interior of a modern living room. You can also make an interior object from pallets, from an old window sill or countertop (with an antique effect), from ceramic tiles, professional pipes. A table made of a profile or water pipe is a fashionable idea at all. And in general, almost anything is suitable for creating creative furniture: from old chests and barrels to mirrors, wallpaper rolls and batteries - the main thing is to trust your imagination, sense of style and technical skills in working with material and tools.

Beautiful interior placement ideas

And finally, let's look at some interesting examples of homemade tables in various interiors. Let's start with the cottage. At a distance of a few meters from the landings, a large table made of lacquered boards will fit in well. Light or dark brown color will be in perfect harmony with the greenery. The tabletop is divided into five parts along the narrow part (according to the number of boards). Having fastened them from below, we will keep the effect of naturalness and naturalness.

From below, the table will also be fastened with two overlaps, on which it will be convenient to put your feet. The benches are also attached to the table (consisting of three boards each). Favorable design is emphasized by additional neat carving on the sidewalls. As a result, we have before us almost an example of the pre-revolutionary tsarist Russian style of the mid-19th century, or even modern (how to look).

It was in this environment that connoisseurs of rural idyll met guests at the beginning of the 20th century, organized creative meetings, exhibitions and even theatrical performances. Such a table does not look old-fashioned, it seems to continue the interior of a classic country house, where there is at least glass and metal.

Another example. Table-river for the living room. The easiest way to make a transformer with your own hands is to make an imitation of it, that is, do not use a plug-in structure in your work, but paint the product accordingly. In fact, this is a classic wooden table with a relief surface, which will successfully stand next to a sofa or armchairs.

The color is better to choose depending on the style of the room. Light wood will be in harmony with light light tones and vice versa. The dyed part (blue or its shades) should be in harmony with the chandelier or ceiling. On such a table, low vases with flowers or greenery will look beautiful. The simpler the design of such a table, the better - it can be used both as a coffee table and as a dining table.

The next idea - for a corner computer table - is also quite real for do-it-yourself implementation. We will make the corner parts rectangular, and the one that protrudes on us is of an arbitrary, but wide and comfortable shape, so that you can put your hands on it, put the keyboard. From materials we use plywood or chipboard.

Regular wood will work, as will old countertops, but working with the form in this case will be a little more difficult. If, nevertheless, a “difficult” material is chosen, pay attention to varnishing and painting, it is better to pay special attention to these stages of work.

We use uniform color schemes, without abusing light shades. In our example, the table will be brown. However, for the perfection of the design idea, the color of the table should be harmonized with the color of the monitor, keyboard and system unit.

Among the night tables, a two-level version will be practical and easy to manufacture. It's easier to make it rectangular, but if skills allow, it's better to make it round. The lower overlap is placed at the level of 10-15 cm from the floor, the upper - at the level of the height of the mattress.

For a bedroom decorated in dark colors, a soft dark texture is suitable. The table can be painted even in black paint. It will thus become a color spot in the room, giving additional contrast to the bed and floor. A nice visual effect will appear if you place a carafe of water and a glass on it.

And the last example is a compact small night office with two drawers. In this case, choose dark colors. The wood will need to be well processed and varnished. The design of drawers is as simple as possible.

The table is an essential attribute of the kitchen interior. At the same time, it should not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that high-quality wooden furniture is not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a grinding machine.

The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants, and the interior design. If you look at the options that furniture manufacturers offer, then among the whole variety of designs, three categories can be distinguished:

tables of medium size for 4-6 people;
overall tables for a large family or receiving guests;
practical folding tables for small kitchens.

A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a product drawing on hand, the necessary set of tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage in the manufacture of a wooden table.

Rectangular baluster dining table

A rectangular design with a standard size of 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can easily accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed both in the center of the kitchen (if space permits), or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.

schematic drawing

In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If there is no lathe at hand, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.

Note! Balusters are figured pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.

Drawing of a rectangular table on balusters

To assemble the product, you will need the following materials and tools:

4 finished baluster legs 720 mm high;
furniture board 30 mm thick for countertops;
board 20x100mm for the frame;
wood screws about 30 mm long;
drill (screwdriver);
a circular saw;
grinder;
sandpaper of different grain sizes;
building level;
square;
roulette;
wood glue.

Step by step assembly instructions

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made in the following sequence:

We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 by 400 mm, 2 by 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state with sandpaper or a grinder.

We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out by means of glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle from the inside of the board.

Tip! In order to prevent the appearance of cracks, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.

Fastening the short crossbars to the legs

We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous step.

The final stage of mounting the table frame

After we have made the frame of a wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the countertop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture board. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for the appearance of the tabletop are not so strict, it can be assembled from grooved boards.

Furniture board for countertop

The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, lay it face down on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The fastening of the crossbars to the tabletop is carried out with screws according to the same principle that was described in paragraph 2. However, in this case, you must be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.

On this, the manufacture of a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of grinding the surface, as well as the application of stain or varnish, the color of which is matched to the interior of the kitchen.

Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish well, so 1-2 coats are enough in this case. But for pine or spruce, you will need at least 3 layers of coating.

Wooden dining table with balusters

Wooden table for a large family

An oversized table at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends must have a reliable design. Regular four legs are usually not enough to hold a heavy tabletop. Therefore, it is necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the frame.

Product design

In this example, we will consider how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with our own hands measuring 2337x978 mm (naturally, slight deviations in one direction or another are allowed).

Drawing of a large wooden table

Before starting work, lumber should be prepared for:

supporting frame (38x90 mm);
countertops (38x140 mm);
support bars (19x64 mm).

You will also need the following tools:

a circular saw;
jigsaw;
drill;
screws (4x65 mm);
drills (3 mm);
furniture glue;
pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.

Manufacturing steps

To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to responsibly approach each stage. So let's get started:

We make parts for the future wooden table from the purchased lumber with our own hands:

2 upper transverse beams (38x90x978 mm);
4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
7 blanks for countertops (38x90x2337);
6 support bars (19x64x432 mm).

We carefully grind all the details, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.

Important! The quality of polishing a wooden surface depends on the right grit of emery. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 µm.

We fasten the legs in pairs with each other using transverse beams (above) and a bowstring (below). We use two screws for each connection.

With the help of a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two bowstrings together.

Fastening of the lower transverse beam

We strengthen the structure with the help of the upper transverse beam.

Advice! In order for the beam to securely connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.

We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.

Fastening of the upper transverse beam

We connect the wooden boards intended for the countertop with the cross beams on the inside of the structure.

Additionally, we strengthen the countertop with the help of supporting strips. Make sure that they do not go beyond the dimensions of the table.

Strengthening the structure with support bars

If desired, semicircular corners can be made in the kitchen wooden table, which will give the product a more elegant look.

This option is suitable for a large kitchen or dining room, and for giving

Folding wooden table for a small kitchen

If there is not enough space in the kitchen to accommodate a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One of these solutions is a folding table that is attached to the wall and is very easy to remove, freeing up the space occupied by itself.

Materials and tools

To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:

furniture board 30 mm thick;
wooden beam 20x60 mm;
loops (6 pcs.);
corner lamella (2 pcs.);
wooden dowels;
dowel;
screws;
drill;
jigsaw;
grinder or sandpaper;
glue;

Assembly: step by step

Advice! Before starting work, decide on the place where the table will be installed. Since the design is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future interior of the kitchen, so that later you do not have to rearrange, leaving unsightly holes from the dowels in a conspicuous place.

Do-it-yourself kitchen table assembly steps:

We prepare parts for folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 with a length of 720 mm, 4 with a length of 320 mm. We sand each element, removing burrs.

Assemble two rectangular frames. The rails are interconnected by means of furniture dowels, under which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

We connect the finished frames with each other with loops. In addition, a narrow rail must be attached to one frame with the help of hinges, which will be attached to the wall.

We fix the frame to the wall with dowels, after which we install corner lamellas on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the legs to fold.

Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.

Fastening the structure to the wall

From a wooden shield we cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more effective look, the corners can be rounded. After that, all ends should be processed with a grinder.

We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to the wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of loops.

We install the 250 mm part on the corner lamellas and connect the elements with screws.

The final stage of mounting a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands

You can ennoble the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.

Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen

On the Internet, you can find a lot of options for how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the simplest solutions for standard, large and small kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For the manufacture of more complex structures, we recommend that you seek help from specialists.

Finally, watch the video, which shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wooden planks.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden table

Making a table is a great easy project for a beginner carpenter, but it can also be quite a challenge for more experienced carpenters. The simplest table consists of a tabletop, legs and a support frame. With a small amount of lumber for these elements, it will be possible to make a table that fully suits your needs.

Steps

Part 1

Table model design

Check out the different table options to decide what kind of table you want to make. There are so many different types of desks out there, so take the time to choose a specific project carefully. Go online and look for photos of tables, paying attention to the style of each item. Also, possible ideas can be found in furniture catalogs and carpentry magazines.

Base your choice on your own needs, such as what you will be using your new table for and how much space you have for it.
Perhaps you need a large rustic dining table. Or maybe you want to make a small coffee table or an elegant bedside table.

Make a sketchy sketch of the table on paper. Use a pencil and ruler to draw your ideal table. Don't worry about the exact dimensions just yet. Just imagine how your finished table should look like. Give it the features you need, and only then think about the size.
- When the approximate design of the table is ready, mark the appropriate dimensions on it with a pencil. The specific dimensions of lumber that you are going to use can be found in hardware stores.
- The dimensions of the table will depend on its type. For example, a dining table is usually noticeably larger than a bedside table.
Calculate how much lumber you will need. Break the design of the table into its constituent basic elements. A simple table will have elements such as a tabletop, legs, and a support frame that connects them. If you plan to equip the table with additional elements, do not forget to take into account the materials for them.,
- For example, try making a table with a top made of three boards 5 cm x 30 cm and a length of 150 cm, legs from four pieces of timber with a section of 10 cm x 10 cm and a length of 70 cm and a support frame from two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 75 cm, as well as two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 145 cm.
- Purchase additional lumber for any additional pieces you want to add to your table. For example, you can add leg crossbars to increase the strength of the table or provide sliding tabletop elements.
To make a long-lasting table, choose an inexpensive but strong enough wood, such as pine. Pine is not a particularly hard wood, but it is easy to work with for beginners. From it, without much difficulty, you can make a table that will last for decades. Also, durable tables are often made from solid maple and cherry.
- Consider other inexpensive wood options. For example, for the manufacture of tables, you can use construction-grade fir. Also, good furniture is obtained from poplar, but this wood is more difficult to tint with wood stain.
- For outdoor furniture, opt for mahogany, cypress, or specially treated wood like pine that has been impregnated with preservatives under pressure.
Buy lumber and cut it into pieces. When you know exactly what you need, go to the hardware store and buy lumber. Many shops can even cut your materials to your size, so don't be too lazy to ask about this service. This will reduce the amount of work ahead a bit so that you can start assembling the table right away.
- If you have a workbench, a vise, a circular saw or a regular hand saw, you can cut the wood yourself. Be sure to wear polycarbonate goggles and a respirator when operating the saw.
Mark the position of the support frame on the underside of the table top. The support frame is attached to the tabletop itself and the legs of the table, preventing these parts from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure about 2.5 cm deep. Then draw a line here with a pencil, which will indicate the place where the support frame is attached to the tabletop.
- The presence of an indent of 2.5 cm will prevent such a situation when the support frame sticks out from under the countertop. In addition, this way you leave a little more space under the table for free positioning of the legs between its legs and, in general, improve the appearance of the table.
- If you have not yet sawn the wood for the support frame, to calculate the dimensions of its parts, use the dimensions of the countertop (in length and width), taking into account the required indent from the edge and the section of the boards used.
Glue the base frame to the tabletop and clamp it with a vise. Set the details of the reference frame along the previously drawn lines. You will have two long pieces along the edges of the table and two short pieces across it (and inside the long pieces). Coat the inside of the pieces with an even layer of wood glue to secure them to the countertop. Fix the parts with a vise overnight so that they do not move.
- You can also securely attach these parts to the countertop with self-tapping screws. In this case, use a deep hole drilling machine to pre-create basting holes for the screws.
- Alternatively, you can first attach the legs to the table, and then connect them to the support frame using self-tapping screws. To make the legs stronger, you can additionally attach corner braces inside the support frame.

Part 3

Attaching legs

Cut the legs of the required length from the timber. Mounting the legs is the most difficult operation in the manufacture of the table. If you attach the legs poorly, you will not end up with a solid and reliable table, but a flimsy, unstable design. Start by measuring the exact length of each leg and sawing off the corresponding pieces of timber with a saw.
- Even if you sawed materials in the store, the parts may be slightly uneven. Check their size before attaching the legs to the table.
- If you are making the legs yourself, first make a rough cut of the parts with a circular saw. Then fold the legs evenly, clamp them with a vise and, if necessary, trim to the same size.
Glue the legs to the corners of the base frame. The legs must be placed in the corners of the support frame, where its parts are joined to each other. Apply adhesive at the corners to the inside of the support frames and the underside of the tabletop. Then place the legs in the corners and secure with a vise.
- You can wait for the glue to dry, but this is not necessary. Just keep the legs securely fastened with a vise so they don't move when you fix them with screws.
Drill basting holes in the base frame and table legs. The screws should be located in the center of each area where the leg meets the support frame. Drill holes from the side of the support frame towards the leg. Use a drill with a diameter of about 6 mm (but thinner than the self-tapping screws used) to make the first basting hole in the wood of the leg. Repeat the same for the other side of the base frame. You will have a total of 8 basting holes.
- If you want to additionally fasten the legs with crossbars, the process will be somewhat more complicated. You will need a circular saw to make grooves on each leg a little less than half the thickness of the timber. On each leg, it will be necessary to make 2 grooves (one on each side, where the crossbars will be attached.
Attach the table legs to the base frame with self-tapping screws. Use two self-tapping screws with a diameter of about 7 mm for each leg. Screw the self-tapping screws through the support frame into the legs. Use a ratchet screwdriver for this.
- Do not drill screws. They can go very tight and accidentally break off.
- Make sure the legs are level and at right angles to the tabletop before you screw the screws into them.
Wait until the glue you used is completely dry and set. Read the manufacturer's instructions that came with the adhesive to find out how long you have to wait. If you leave the table alone overnight, you can be sure that the glue will dry for this. Usually the table can be turned to the correct position even before this time.
Turn the table over on its legs to check its stability. Turn the table over carefully. It can be quite heavy! Put it on the floor and try to shake it. If the table wobbles, it means that the legs are not perfect enough. It is possible that they are different lengths - in this case you will need to turn the table back and shorten the legs to the same length.
- Although the legs can be cut with a circular saw or hacksaw, it is easy to make a mistake and shorten them too much. Instead, it's better to sand down some of the legs a bit with 80 grit sandpaper and then sand them down with 220 grit sandpaper.
- Problems can also create the position of the legs themselves. Make sure they fit snugly against the countertop and support frame. If necessary, unscrew the screws and correct the position of the legs.

Part 4

Sanding and tinting wood

Sand the table with 80 grit sandpaper. This is a coarse grit sandpaper, so it will make the wood look a bit rough, which is perfectly normal. Just think about how the finished table will look like! If you look closely at the wood, you will notice the direction of its fibers (lines). Sandpaper over the entire surface of the wood in the direction of its fibers (including the underside of the table and legs).
- The stains are different. Oil-based compositions penetrate the wood well and create a fairly stable result. Water-soluble stains are easy to apply, but absorb unevenly into the wood. Gel stains are quite thick and create a strong toning effect.
- To qualitatively process wood with a stain, process only one side of the table at a time.
When the first coat of stain dries, apply the second coat. Let the first coat of wood stain dry overnight before painting the wood again. It is likely that the first coat of stain will look dull and uneven. Cover the table with another layer of stain in the same way as before, then let it dry again. When you return to the table again, it should be ready.
- Wipe off any excess stain before leaving the table to dry. This will achieve a uniform toning effect without too dark spots.

Look on the Internet for patterns for making tables. A variety of detailed diagrams can be downloaded for free or purchased for a small fee.
Create the table you want! For the table, you can use not only different types of wood, but also other materials. For example, table legs can be made of pipes, and the tabletop itself can be made of metal or glass.
When assembling wooden furniture, be sure to drill basting holes, especially in wood 2.5 cm thick or less, so that it does not crack.
Consider recycling lumber. This may require more effort in designing and rendering the table, but will often result in a more interesting end result.
Fasten wood exclusively with self-tapping screws. Nails hold less well and can lead to cracking. In addition, the self-tapping screw will be easier to unscrew if you make a mistake.

Warnings

Be careful when working with tools! A drill or other piece of equipment can be quite dangerous if mishandled.
Be sure to use protective equipment when working with tools. Wear earplugs and goggles. Use a dust mask and do not wear long clothing that could get caught on tools.
Many tinting products contain toxic substances that evaporate during use, so work with them in a respirator and in a well-ventilated area.

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