Malfunctions of the central locking control unit gas 31105.

central locking

Central lock servomotor


On Renault 19 versions equipped with central locking, all doors and the tailgate can be opened or closed simultaneously by closing the driver's door or by pressing the infrared remote transmitter button on the ignition key. To do this, there are small electric motors in each door.

Simultaneously with the closing of the driver's door, the remaining servomotors receive an impulse. Depending on whether the driver's door lock is closed or opened, the other door locks also close or open.

Removing the central locking servomotor

EXECUTION ORDER

Trouble-shooting

central locking

Malfunction

Debugg
A. The central locking does not work. 1. The fuse has blown.
2. The motor in the driver's door is faulty.
3. Faulty wires.		 Replace.
Check operation and replace if necessary.
Check and replace if necessary.
B. The lock latches open but do not close.

1. See A 2.
2. The connector on the motor is loose or oxidized.
3. The motor on the driver's side is faulty.

 Check that the connector is securely seated and clean if necessary.
Check the electrical continuity at terminal 2 (red wire) and terminal 1 (white wire), and terminals 2 and 4 (purple wire).
C. The lock latches close but do not open. 1. See A 2.
2. See B 2 and 3.
D. One of the lock latches does not work.

1. See B 2.
2. The wire connection on the motor is damaged.
3. The wiring to the motor is broken.
4. Mechanical transmission devices are jammed.

For the VOLGA-3110506 car with a CHRYSLER engine, the colors of the wires are different. The location is the same, except for the tachometer. Indicated in the photo in brackets.

Installed equipment: StarLine A91 car alarm with auto-start function.

To access the wiring and internal cavities of the dashboard, we disassemble the interior. We will need a plastic spatula and a Phillips screwdriver. Socket wrench 7mm.

Photo 1.1. We unscrew the four screws from the bottom of the steering wheel trim and remove the top and bottom of the trims.

Photo 1.2. We unscrew the two screws securing the insert into the visor and pull it out.

Photo 1.3. We unscrew the four screws securing the instrument panel with a 7mm head and pull out the instrument panel.

Photo 1.4. Green and double yellow wires in the connector from the left steering column switch - turns.

Photo 1.5. Dashboard connector XP3 (white vertical). White (didn't look for) wire - charge indicator lamp 1.3V-13.8V. Gray-black (brown in the chip socket above) wire - tachometer, amplitude 5 volts, we start with +5 volts (+12 s self-induction emf).

Photo 1.6. Dashboard connector XP2 (red vertical). Green (same) wire – turn. Yellow (same) wire – turn. White (red) wire – parking brake warning lamp(different color by gender).

Photo 1.7. Dashboard connector XP1 (white horizontal). Gray (green) wire – oil warning lamp.

Photo 1.8. Left KIR panel (to the left of the driver’s feet). Vertical thick bun. Gray middle wire - all door switches"minus".

Photo 1.9. Control block Central lock(on the horizontal plane of the air supply box above the left FIR panel). The control wire is yellow-red (yellow from the driver's door). We make the connection according to the diagram in Fig. 1.


Scheme 1


Scheme 2

Fig 1. Connection to the parking brake and central locking (CL).

Photo 1.10. Thick beam in the left KIR panel. White thick (didn’t look for) wire - gasoline pump.

Photo 1.11. The same wire is on the relay.

We install the siren in any convenient place under the hood, the temperature sensor - on one of the coolant pipes or on the cylinder head, the hood switch - on the radiator frame.

We connect the power wires on the ignition switch bundle in the braid behind the dashboard from the side of the wiring bundle to the connector (on the ignition switch side the colors are different - see the second brackets):
+12 volts constant- red-black for two terminals (black) - (on the locks of both cars yellow, terminal 30, pink, terminal 30/1)
ACC– blue (same) - (brown, terminal 15/2)
IGN– pink (same) - (red, terminal 15/1)
START– white-lilac thin (gray thin) - (white thin, terminal 50)

In the settings we program scrolling for 3.6 seconds, “tachometer” control (or generator+).

You can block: in the cabin - the fuel pump, ignition, under the hood - injectors or sensors.

The main unit is located inside the panel behind the dashboard on the steering shaft pipe jib. Don't forget to cut the loop to select the type of manual transmission.

We mount the shock sensor on the steering shaft casing pipe or on one of the amplifiers inside the panel.

Antenna module - on the windshield or, for concealment, inside the panel away from metal elements (with an inevitable reduction in the communication range).

The VALET service button is in a place hidden from view (do not forget to show it to the owner when returning the car).

We mount the LED in the left cover of the rack.

We turn on the power and check the functionality: control of doors, hood, trunk, indication of interior and engine temperatures (with the hood closed). Checking the launch operation.

Adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor. We assemble the dismantled elements of the trim and interior panels in the reverse order. We fill out the documents.


The central locking system operates the door lock actuators, which are located in each door.

The system consists of switches, actuators and connecting wires.

Diagnostics is usually limited to checking wiring and actuator connections for minor faults that can be easily fixed.

Tester connection and conductivity table for the main switch block of the central locking system


Tester connection table and lock switch conductivity


Examination

EXECUTION ORDER
1. The central locking system uses two-way solenoids to lock and unlock the doors. Lock switches have two operating states: Locked and Unlocked. These switches operate a relay, which in turn supplies voltage to the door lock solenoids. Depending on what signal is sent to the relay, it changes its polarity, allowing both parts of the circuit to have a positive or negative voltage.
2. Always check the electrical circuit protection first. Some vehicles use circuit breakers and fuses together.
3. Switch the switches to both positions (Lock and Unlock) with the engine off. Listen to the faint click of the relay being activated.
4. If you do not hear a click, check for voltage at the switches. If voltage is present, check the wires between the fuse box and the switches for shorts or opens.
5. If voltage is present, but no click is heard, check the switch for current continuity. Replace the switch if it does not conduct current in any of the positions (see table. Tester connection and conductivity table for the main switch block of the central locking system).
6. If the switch is conducting but the relay does not click, check the wires between the switch and the relay. Reestablish the connection if there is a break in the circuit.
7. If the relay receives power from the switch but does not send it to the solenoids, check that the relay body is properly grounded. If the relay case ground is OK, replace the relay.
8. If all lock solenoids are working except one, remove the trim panel from that door (see subsection 11.12) and check for voltage at the solenoid when turning the lock switch on/off. There should be voltage on one of the wires when the switch is in the closed position; the second wire must be live when the switch is in the open position.
9. If voltage is present at the inoperative solenoid, replace it.
10. If there is no voltage at the inoperative solenoid, check the wire between the solenoid and the relay for an open. Warning

Often the wires break in the part of the wiring harness that is located between the body and the door (constantly opening and closing the door causes fatigue to build up in the wires and ultimately cause the wires to break).

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