home

Is it possible to deploy the toilet from the riser. Is it possible to move the toilet from the riser and how to do it correctly? Transferring the toilet: possible risks

A typical apartment is traditionally a cramped bathroom, narrow corridors and an uncomfortable kitchen. The bathroom is often so small that it does not allow for a set, a washing machine, or a bidet. Combining the toilet room with the bathroom gives a few extra centimeters that allow you to accommodate the listed equipment.

There are three ways that the owner of an uncomfortable apartment can go:

combining a toilet with a bathroom;
transfer of a bathroom;
expansion of the bathroom at the expense of the living quarters;
expansion due to the kitchen;
an increase in the bathroom due to the corridor, pantry, utility room.

The transfer of a bathroom or a bathroom is available only to owners of their own houses, the transfer of a bathroom in an apartment to any other place is prohibited. The same applies to the expansion of the bathroom at the expense of the living quarters or at the expense of the kitchen (transfer of the bathroom to the kitchen), prohibiting documents in this case are SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10 and SNiP 31-01-2003.

However, there are still exceptions to this rule - you can expand the bathroom at the expense of a kitchen or living space if there is a non-residential building under you (respectively, you live on the 1st or 2nd floor) or you are going to redevelop on the 2nd floor of a two-story apartment.

Transferring the bathroom to the corridor, or rather, expanding the bathroom due to the corridor, pantry, utility room is probably the most acceptable option, but it should be remembered that it is forbidden to arrange an exit from the toilet to the room or kitchen.

Well, the most popular option is the combination of a bathroom and a bathroom, it is he who is most often used in high-rise apartments.

Combining a bathroom

In order to agree on the unification of a bathroom in a panel house, brick building or Khrushchev, it is necessary to prepare a project for future redevelopment. Surely, in the process, you will also have to transfer plumbing fixtures or add new ones.

Stages of redevelopment approval:

obtaining a technical passport at the BTI;
obtaining a single housing document in the IERC;
execution of a sketch of future redevelopment and waterproofing on the floor plan, or an order in the design organization of the redevelopment project; *
providing the necessary package of documents to the Housing Inspectorate of the city of Moscow. The decision is made within 1.5-2 months.

* if the partition between the toilet and the bathroom is not a load-bearing one, and if you want to change the location of the appliances, the redevelopment can be done according to a sketch or according to a standard project. If the work affects load-bearing walls, you want to add plumbing fixtures (for example, a bidet) - you must order an individual project. If, as a result of the demolition of the partition, the waterproofing of the floor changes, it is necessary to prepare a special floor plan.

Since we are talking about projects, it should be noted that the transfer of a bathroom in an apartment, or rather its expansion through a corridor or storage room, also requires a project, even if it does not affect the load-bearing walls (since there is interference with the floor structure).

Expanding the kitchen with a bathroom

Consider the option when you need to obtain permission to expand the kitchen at the expense of a bathroom or bathroom.

Clause 2.6 of section 2 of SNiP 2.08.01-89 * states: "It is not allowed to place a restroom and bath (or shower) directly above the living rooms and kitchens." In this case, on the contrary, we want to place part of the kitchen under someone else's bathroom. There is no direct ban on such redevelopment in the law. Previously, the Moscow Housing Inspection gave permission for the transfer, since the owner of the apartment worsened living conditions only for himself. In this case, along with other documents, it was necessary to provide the Moszhilinspektsiya with a notarized consent to the deterioration of living conditions.

Today, Moszhilinspektsii do not give permission for redevelopment, arguing their position as follows: according to Government Decree No. 73, clause 3.1, “Reconstruction of premises is not allowed, in which “The operating conditions of the house and the residence of citizens are deteriorating.”

The ideal option - if your apartment is located on the top floor, you do not worsen the living conditions for yourself or your neighbors. Permission for such redevelopment is more likely to be granted.

Having started the transfer of a bathroom, combining a bathroom or other redevelopment, contact our company for legal services.

How to move the toilet to another place

We will not only give you advice on how best to carry out redevelopment and consult on all issues related to coordination, but also prepare a sketch, project, obtain all necessary permits and carry out coordination. Your property is in safe hands when MVK-Service is engaged in the work.

You can get a free consultation right now by calling the numbers listed in the contacts. Our specialist will answer any of your questions regarding the coordination of redevelopment.

Conference > Chatter > Miscellaneous > I want to move the toilet to the pantry

View Full Version : I want to move the toilet to the pantry

Tell me who faced. I have a combined bathroom, a pantry through the partition, where I want to move the toilet. I called the administration of my district, in Bti. The administration immediately said that they would not approve, do not even try, the BTI said the issue price was 25 thousand. As expected, they will prepare docks, a waterproofing project, etc. etc. Who faced and received permission for such a redevelopment, please share your experience.

24-03-2015, 10:20

nax you fix it?

24-03-2015, 10:22

And what are the difficulties, why approval, you are not doing redevelopment with the removal of walls? Continue the sewer pipe a little more and hold cold water behind the partition, what is the difficulty? Any plumber will do it quickly for a fee. The hood will only have to be fenced

Cat walking alone...

24-03-2015, 10:23

Don't forget ventilation

the apartment is in a mortgage, and I want everything to be legal.

24-03-2015, 10:27

If there are 2 holes in the wall at the bottom for a sewer pipe and water and at the top for an exhaust hood, no one will say anything. The pantry is not a living space, do everything with a plumber and don't worry.

yes, I also read in the SNIP and it is written that it is forbidden to place a toilet and a bathroom above living quarters. And they push me about a dry and wet room and a bunch of certificates, documents and a project))

do not forget the hood, otherwise the gas wagon is provided) and this is the 3rd hole in the wall with a diameter of 100mm

24-03-2015, 10:41

There are only 2 holes - at the bottom, a sewer pipe and a polyethylene pipe of cold water are inserted into one, and an exhaust hood on top. I have done so))

24-03-2015, 13:49

Oh, you smart ass.

There is a handy plumber.

24-03-2015, 14:17

They are correct, you can't make wet rooms above the neighboring dry rooms, but no project will help you legitimize this, so 25 tr will be thrown into the abyss. If the neighbors find out and knock, then it won't seem enough for you: rolleyes:

24-03-2015, 14:19

What does it wake up?

24-03-2015, 14:23

Do you think it's a difficult question?

24-03-2015, 14:23

They will drag you through the courts, fine you and give you an order to do as it was.

24-03-2015, 14:26

everything is fixed ;)

a strange system ... they will forbid doing it (as many say), but it’s easy to legalize what has already been done ... something like that)

24-03-2015, 15:07

Also an actual topic, but I'm still thinking about whether I need it or not.

24-03-2015, 15:36

it's better to have a sauna there

in the closet? and enough space

everything is not easy in this life 😉

In the apartment, he combined a bathroom and a pantry at the construction stage, agreed with the builders. Then uzakanival before receiving those. passports. It was a long time ago, about 7 years ago, at that time there was an office on Sorge 58, which allows this redevelopment. There they had a list of documents to bring. Among them is the project and the conclusion of the sanitary and epidemiological station. They did the project at the BTI, at the sanitary and epidemiological station they gave some certificate to Shafiev. With these documents + docks on ownership at Zorge 58 issued a conclusion that "their permission is not required for the indicated redevelopment" 😀 And already with this paper, the BTI issued a new registration certificate. Everything came out 5-6 thousand rubles.

24-03-2015, 16:29

In fact, there is a lot of crap, this is a transfer from dry to wet zone, or vice versa.

an area of 1.2 sqm ... I went down to the neighbors from below, they did what I wanted, they moved the toilet bowl there, it turned out awesome. They did not ask anything from anyone and did everything

practices

24-03-2015, 18:44

well, now you don’t break anything by making a wet room over a wet one 😀

so I say, BTIshnkam, that if the neighbors don’t mind, then why not ... that’s all)

alien

24-03-2015, 18:57

if you have a city apartment. do whatever you want, but if you decide to sell, they will impose an encumbrance, you still have to legalize it.

I found that piece of paper on which redevelopment was legalized for me at the BTI. It turns out from the administration. On Zorga, this is Rospotrebnadzor, they also issued some kind of certificate.
I advise you to immediately contact them and clarify what information they have, etc. you need them to give you the same piece of paper.
It’s just that they told me at the BTI that I needed a certificate from firefighters, I also did it, but in the end no one needed it.

alien

24-03-2015, 19:18

did you pay the loot? :D:D

😀 As a result, for all the certificates, the project and the registration certificate in 2008, it cost me 5-6 thousand rubles.
The project itself cost 3t.r. Something too much was requested from the author (25t.r).
Such redevelopment is insignificant and does not require the permission of the administration! - that's the main trick. 😀

here's the thing .. I call the BTI, they tell us to go, the administration said that nothing would burn out, but they gave the telephone office to Blucher 2/2 (Center for Urban Design, Administration of the Ufa City District) , you advise to go to Rospotrebnadzor on a sorge)) where to start then)

alien

24-03-2015, 21:08

here it’s like this .. you understand the bathroom .. Rospotrebnadzor can steer here .. if you transfer the push to the pantry, will your toilet be above the neighbor’s kitchen from below .. well, you understand .. my advice to you, don’t start this garbage. you will lose a lot of nerves , time and dough .. I demolished half a meter of the wall in my last apartment, I had to do so many papers. I just went nuts.

downstairs, the neighbors have the same hut as mine, they have a pantry there according to the project, where they made a toilet.

I later wrote that I took another certificate from Rosportebnadzor after the sanitary and epidemiological station.
First go to Blucher and find out what they need (what information). Maybe in general a minimum of information is needed, tk.

such redevelopment is insignificant (does not affect the supporting structures)!
In the end, they should give you paper like the one in the photo. With this piece of paper later you will come to BTI and they will make a new registration certificate.

thank you..tomorrow I will start a long journey)

It took me 3 months. 🙂 But I started with bti, I did extra information on their advice. I think if you start from this design center on Blucher, it will be faster and easier. Good luck!

thank you

24-03-2015, 23:33

It can be done, but it will most likely have to be legalized through the courts.

If the neighbors from below sign a paper that they don’t mind, then it’s real. No one will sign the transfer of wet zones without their consent. I would start with the neighbors.

24-03-2015, 23:41

Will you sell, clean the toilet, for a long time or what?

Estrangella Edessa

25-03-2015, 08:01

1, I also didn’t understand why these dances with legitimization

And on the other floors to go through this riser? Surely many have already done just that!

what will it give?

drove to a blucher, gave a memo on collecting docks
http://linkme.ufanet.ru/images/70b99...1a0795f44b.jpg

So today I took the project with a contract for architectural supervision - 4 thousand rubles. I don't understand)

30-03-2015, 22:15

Then the question is, is it worth bothering with the legalization of the partition on the common balcony?
Shared balcony with neighbor, he has a fire escape.

NikolaVasilyevich

16-04-2015, 22:00

Don't worry about moving the sanitary ware. Just go to the closet.

in a box that is in the pantry ?!)

16-04-2015, 22:06

don't bother

or a greenhouse, right? :D

Vetrogan Buraganovich

17-04-2015, 16:34

what about the meaning?
write your stories

I'll write you))

There is a handy plumber.

I will give his phone number - he will come - he will look at the place and say what and how

I gave one and a half rubles to the SES, they approved it. I took all the docks to the administration of my district, they said that everything is simple and why there are so many things to do - projects, etc., they say I would do it, and then legalized ... my case is more hemorrhagic))

everything, approval in hand ...

Repair in the bathroom: how to move the toilet to another

In standard apartments, the bathroom occupies a small area. The owners of the premises resort to various tricks so that every centimeter of the area is used with maximum benefit. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, it becomes necessary to move the toilet from the riser.

The event is not easy. The easiest way is to turn to specialists in the plumbing field, who probably know how to move the toilet to another place. But for this you will have to adapt to their work schedule, change your plans. And, perhaps, even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the case, you can do it on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.

But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes suitable for it. Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, the transfer of the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage. Theoretically, with the correct installation of the pipes and regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of blockages. According to the requirements of SNiP, a plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving the toilet to another place is compliance with the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of effluent transportation decreases, and blockages may appear.

Sometimes, to comply with the pipe slope rule, it is required to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet. Both options have a place to be, but the second requires the installation of a box on the wall for installation and concealment of water and sewer pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing equipment on a pedestal.

Toilet transfer - will there be problems with flushing?

If such laying of the pipeline is not possible, in places of sharp bends of 90 0 two 45 0 corner pipes are installed.

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment. Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to a different distance (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, a simple and complex method is distinguished.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet to the side a short distance - 15 - 20 cm. To do this, you must carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks on the toilet bowl. Therefore, turning off the water, carefully and carefully:

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the layer of putty with a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with the application of a little effort, we try to loosen the toilet bowl. For which you may need the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen until the equipment begins to swing freely;
lift the toilet. Grabbing the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, you should not make much effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instruction, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since in order to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pulling the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.

After dismantling the device, you can begin to prepare for its installation in a new location. We examine the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, change it to a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with a pobedite coating, if it is a tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the toilet outlet and the socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation to the sealing ring, and pull it onto the toilet bowl socket;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, we coat the gaps formed between the floor and the base with cement;
at the end of the installation, we lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

If, according to the design project, it is required to move the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to remake the sewer. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences are in the need to increase the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewer at the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross. With plastic pipes, everything is simple (everything is easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, then you will have to resort to using a gas burner or a blowtorch to destroy the sealant and cement putty by heating. After that, you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the slope rules. The installation of plastic pipes in a cast-iron socket involves the use of a special cuff-seal. For better sealing, lubricate its joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is with a corrugation, providing free access to it to control integrity. Instead of a corrugation, you can install a special adapter pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.

This should be done by a person who knows how to handle a drill or hammer drill. And you may need to fill in the screed, lay the tiles. Those. It will be necessary either to start repairs on their own, or to hire specialists.

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

But the replacement of the toilet itself begins even before the direct work on site, with the choice of new plumbing. It can be more expensive or cheaper, with double flush, with fragrance, with an audio system and other popular options.

The installation of the toilet bowl is carried out on a flat base, most often it turns out to be laid ceramic tiles. Accordingly, the bottom of the purchased plumbing should be perfectly flat. There are two answers to the question of how the toilet will be connected to the riser: either through the old drain neck, or with a rework of the joint. It is necessary to have good reasons for complicating the repair, therefore, in the vast majority of cases, a device with a similar drain is initially chosen - at an angle of 45 or 90 °. The neck of the toilet bowl is connected to the riser through a glass, the installation angle is determined precisely by the spatial orientation of the glass.

If the store really liked the toilet bowl of the original look, but with a neck at a different angle, you need to take into account the location of the sewer outlet, and the easiest way is to take a universal model with an oblique drain. Drain the water coming from the tank in the toilet. The opening for supply from this container can be from different sides - the replacement assumes that the outlet is already installed. Accordingly, it is easiest to connect a new tank with a similar hole location, or through a long pipe.

Technical subtleties

For a bathroom of modest size, the dimensions of the toilet itself are also relevant, especially if the door opens into the room. There is such a criterion: they open the door, measure the distance from the edge of the sash to the nearest wall of the sewer glass with a tape measure, then take away 15 cm - the maximum allowable length of the toilet bowl is obtained.

When replacing, it is understood that you will first have to dismantle the old plumbing, and then install a new one. When the toilet is embedded in the floor, the apparatus will have to be broken. If there is an old tee made of cast iron, with branches of 100 and 75 mm, it is also recommended to change it - the plastic one is more compact and more durable. You just need to change it carefully, because. there is another tee on the riser, an intermediate one - and it is very desirable not to damage it.

If you had to knock out the walled-in toilet and then pour the screed, you will have to wait a week until the solution dries. To fix plumbing, special dowels are used. An important point: before connecting the drain, the joint is thoroughly cleaned of debris and salt - otherwise the corner or corrugation will not sit tightly and the connection will leak. And one more thing: in order to be able to repair or clean the toilet bowl, it is recommended to insert a tap into the pipe before connecting the tank - then you will not have to disconnect the entire system from the water supply.

This article is the intellectual property of SAN-TECHNO.
Any reprint, full or partial, is obligatory indicating the author of the article and a hyperlink to the original source.

Is it possible to move the toilet from the usual place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

Why is this needed?

There are many reasons for transferring:

Changing the layout of the toilet. If the wall is moved, the old location of the toilet may be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, suboptimal in terms of space utilization.
to another with different overall dimensions. If the old toilet was perfectly placed across the combined bathroom, and the new one can only be located along - obviously, you will have to redo the sewer for it.
Purchasing new bathroom furniture, washing machine, bathtub and so on.

Regardless of the motivation, the conclusions are the same in all cases: the old toilet must be removed as intact as possible and, having redone the sewer (and, sometimes, the plumbing), remount it at another point in the room.

Tip: in general, it is rarely necessary to pull a hard cold water supply to the point of a new toilet seat.
If the toilet is carried within the same room, it is often much easier to buy a long flexible eyeliner.

We move the toilet

simple case

The toilet is unfolded or transferred to a small distance, about a dozen or two centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling the toilet is highly dependent on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff - everything is simple:

Unscrew the screws securing the toilet to the floor;
Pulling the toilet toward you strictly along the axis of the socket of the sewer pipe, pull out the toilet outlet from it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to shut off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is planted on glue or cement, and its outlet is smeared with the same cement in a cast-iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

Armed with a strong screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the sewer socket and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: an unsuccessful move - and you have to go for a new toilet.

When the release is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully, with little effort, driven in turn from different sides under the base of the toilet bowl. Sooner or later, he will sway, announcing that the deed is done.
Then, again, we feed the toilet towards ourselves, pulling out its outlet from the sewer socket strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, don't pull harder, but rock the toilet slightly from side to side. Of course, before that it is better to turn off the water on the tank and drain the water.

Installation at a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water pipes will be small, we will not need to alter the sewer system or build up the water pipe.

If the old flexible eyeliner is in good condition, we will not touch it. If it leaks or has insufficient length - just change it to an analogue. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet with the sewer with a corrugation. This corrugated pipe, in general, has rubber seals on both sides; but it's a good idea to stock up on silicone.

In addition, you will need a set of fasteners for the toilet.

Important: fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
The steel screws must not be pressed directly against the faience.

Clean the toilet outlet and drain socket of debris and wipe dry.
Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mounts and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first pass it with a drill through a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
Put the corrugation on the toilet outlet, after applying the sealant.
Pull the toilet to the floor. He needs to stop staggering, nothing more. Cover the gaps between the base and the tile with cement mortar - this will prevent the lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet bowl, creating additional support for it.
Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
Enjoy.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is slanted

Difficult case

We have already agreed that within a small room it is easier to connect water with a long flexible eyeliner. The transfer of the toilet bowl to a distance exceeding the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by an alteration of the sewer.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to increase the sewerage, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

The assembly of plastic sewerage is extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket - use a cuff - sealant. It is better to put it on a silicone sealant, first of all, well lubricating its joint with a cast-iron pipe.

Conclusion

It seems that the article answered the question of whether it is possible to transfer the toilet bowl. Can; Moreover, there are no particular difficulties in this.

Good luck with the repair!

The bathroom of a standard apartment most often has a small area, so the owners of the premises have to make the most of every centimeter of free space.

The result of design research is often the desire to move or deploy the toilet. This is a responsible and difficult undertaking. To carry it out, you can invite specialists, but you can do it on your own.

Let's figure out how to do all the work correctly.

"Pitfalls" of these works

Moving plumbing equipment some distance from the riser at first glance seems to be a very simple and hassle-free solution. But in reality this is not so. Increasing the length of sewer pipes suitable for equipment threatens with trouble.

When flushed, an excessive vacuum will occur in them, which will provoke a breakdown of the water seal in all nearby plumbing fixtures. This process will be accompanied by extremely unpleasant odors from the sewer and gurgling sounds.

Often, only moving plumbing equipment some distance from the sewer riser can solve the problem of optimizing space in the bathroom.

Another problem is the increased likelihood of blockages. When moving the equipment, the length of the pipe that connects the device to the sewer riser increases. Accordingly, the path of impurities is lengthened.

Theoretically, in any case, the drains will reach the sewer, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Both problems can be solved with strict adherence to the requirements of the current SNiP.

The document prohibits removing the plumbing fixture from the pipe further than 1.5 m.

Another important indicator is the slope of the pipeline. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, it should be at least 2 cm per meter. Parts with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid with a slope of at least 3 cm per meter. This requirement must be strictly followed.

Reducing the slope reduces the speed of drains, which can cause blockages. Too much bias is also undesirable. In this case, the water will pass through the pipes too quickly, leaving solid contaminants.

They will gradually accumulate inside the pipes, preventing the free outflow of fluid.

Very often, the owner of the bathroom understands that in order to ensure a sufficient slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet will have to be raised, and the lifting height can be quite large. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe and the distance that the device needs to be removed.

There can be two options for solving the problem: either raise the floor in the bathroom and mask the pipeline in it, or install a kind of podium under the toilet. Both options are quite viable, but in practice the second is most often used.

As the least time-consuming and quite convenient solution.

To ensure the slope of the pipeline prescribed by SNiP, the equipment can be placed on a special podium

There is one more thing to keep in mind when planning the migration of equipment. The pipeline laid from the riser to the toilet must be a line without right angles. In cases where this is not possible, instead of a sharp 90° bend, two 45° turns should be arranged. This is necessary to minimize the risk of blockages.

SNiP sets quite strict requirements for the transfer of a plumbing fixture, and all of them must be met without fail, otherwise problems with the operation of the equipment cannot be avoided. At the same time, you need to understand that if the toilet needs to be moved more than 1.5 m, the recommendations of SNiP will not “work”.

In this case, it is necessary either to transfer the sewer riser itself, which is practically impossible, or to equip a forced sewer.

The latter option can also be used with a shorter distance from the riser to the toilet, provided that there is no possibility or desire to bother with laying the pipe with the desired slope and raising the floor level in the bathroom.

Toilet transfer technology

The equipment can be moved to a different distance, with a different angle of rotation of the device. Depending on this, a simple transfer option and a more complex one are distinguished.

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

It is assumed that the equipment is transferred over a short distance, which does not exceed 10-20 cm. We start by dismantling the old device.

If the device was “planted” on cement or glue and its outlet was also smeared with cement, you will have to tinker with its dismantling. One wrong move and the toilet will crack.

If it is planned to install a new device, you can not be careful with the old one, if this is not the case, turn off the water and very carefully perform the following operations:

We free from putty from the space between the outlet of the device and the sewer socket. For manipulation, you can use a narrow chisel or a strong screwdriver.
Carefully loosen the toilet. To do this, carefully hammer a wide chisel under the base in different places. Repeat the operation until the device starts to swing.
We raise the toilet. First, we feed the device towards ourselves and take out the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. Plumbers warn that if the device gets stuck and does not feed, you can’t pull hard. It is necessary to shake the device very carefully, and then pull it again.

The equipment installed on regular fasteners and connected to the sewerage system with a rubber cuff is removed much easier. To remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws that secure the device. Then we feed the device towards ourselves strictly in the direction of the axis of the sewer pipe and remove the outlet from it.

If the toilet after dismantling must remain in working order, all operations are performed very carefully. The putty that secures the outlet of the device in the sewer socket is destroyed with extreme caution

After carrying out all the work, you can begin preparations for installing the device in a new location. We examine the old flexible eyeliner. If its length is not enough or it leaks, we change it to a suitable model. If the item is in good condition - leave everything as it is.

A toilet bowl connected to a socket with a corrugation is much easier to dismantle. You only need to remove the mounts from the device and remove the flexible corrugation

To connect the toilet outlet to the sewer socket, you will need a corrugation. Despite the fact that rubber seals are installed at its two ends, it is worth using silicone sealant for safety net. In addition, you need to prepare special fasteners. It is very important that the steel fasteners do not press against the sanitary ware, so the presence of plastic washers on the fasteners is mandatory. Then install the device:

We outline on the floor places for fastening. We drill holes. If you have to work with tiles, first we go through the tiles with a special drill bit of a slightly larger diameter.
We clean the sewer socket and toilet outlet and wipe them dry.
We apply silicone sealant to the corrugation. We put it on the release of equipment.
We install the device in place, insert the fasteners into the prepared holes and carefully tighten them. After the device stops staggering, we immediately stop tightening the fasteners.
We cover the gaps remaining between the floor and the base with a solution. Thus, we create an additional support that will not allow the lateral force to destroy the base.
Lubricate the second part of the corrugation with sealant and insert it into the socket.

It must be remembered that the toilet is a rather fragile sanitary ware, so you need to act very carefully.

Corrugation - a flexible connecting element that greatly facilitates the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Its main drawback is its fragility.

Option #2 - long distance transfer

If the device is to be moved to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, it will be necessary to remake the sewer. The procedure for dismantling and subsequent installation of the device is no different from the above described option. The difference lies in the build-up of sewerage.

For this procedure, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is most often used. The number, length and configuration of the connecting elements depend on the new location of the toilet bowl.

The plastic pipeline is laid on the floor or attached to the wall with special clamps.

There are several nuances to which you should pay special attention. To lower the sewer to the floor level, you will have to remove the outlet to the toilet from a cross or a tee. For plastic elements, this is not difficult.

If the parts are made of cast iron, it is best to first heat the bell with a gas burner or blowtorch. This is done so that the sealant burns out and the cement putty cracks. Connections filled with sulfur are also annealed with a blowtorch. This creates a very strong odor.

It is mandatory to use a gas mask and well ventilate the room.

After that, removing the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is best to start the installation of a new pipeline from the riser. At the same time, we do not forget about the necessary slope, which is about 1-2 cm per linear meter. To install a plastic pipe in a cast-iron socket, it is optimal to use a special cuff-seal. It is best to install it by pre-lubricating the joint with silicone sealant.

Installation of the toilet with the help of special fasteners must be carried out very carefully. It is important to remember that the steel screws must not touch the sanitary ware. When installing them, be sure to use gaskets

The toilet can be connected using corrugations, this is considered the simplest, but at the same time short-lived option. It is used only when it is possible to provide unhindered access to the connecting element.

A special transition pipe can be used, which is somewhat more difficult to install than a corrugation, but gives a more reliable and durable connection. There may also be a connection using linen winding.

This is an outdated, but quite reliable option.

Is it still worth it to do this work yourself?

Transferring a plumbing fixture from a riser is a rather complicated undertaking.

The slightest errors in calculations or installation can lead to very unpleasant problems that are difficult to solve in the form of chronic blockages and an unpleasant smell that cannot be removed in the bathroom.

Anyone who does not have real experience in installing plumbing equipment can be advised to seek help from specialists. Professionals will assess the existing conditions, help you choose the necessary equipment and correctly install it. The toilet bowl will be placed exactly where the owner wants, and will function flawlessly.

Source: https://aqua-rmnt.com/santehnika/unitaz-rakovina/perenos-unitaza.html

How to move the toilet: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, can it be moved, price, photo

Is it possible to move the toilet from the usual place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

In the process of overhaul, we have complete freedom of action. The toilet can be placed anywhere in the apartment. There would be a desire.

Why is this needed?

There are many reasons for transferring:

Changing the layout of the toilet. If the wall is moved, the old location of the toilet may be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, not optimal in terms of space use.
Replacing the toilet bowl with another one with different overall dimensions. If the old toilet was perfectly placed across the combined bathroom, and the new one can only be located along - obviously, you will have to redo the sewer for it.
Purchasing new bathroom furniture, washing machine, bathtub and so on.

Tip: in general, it is rarely necessary to pull a hard cold water supply to the point of a new toilet seat.
If the toilet is carried within the same room, it is often much easier to buy a long flexible eyeliner.

And this is not what you want to do. After the repair is completed, communications should be available.

simple case

The toilet is unfolded or transferred to a small distance, about a dozen or two centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling the toilet is highly dependent on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff - everything is simple:

Unscrew the screws securing the toilet to the floor;
Pulling the toilet toward you strictly along the axis of the socket of the sewer pipe, pull out the toilet outlet from it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to shut off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is planted on glue or cement, and its outlet is smeared with the same cement in a cast-iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

Armed with a strong screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the sewer socket and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: an unsuccessful move - and you have to go for a new toilet.

We have to carefully remove this putty, without splitting the issue.

When the release is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully, with little effort, driven in turn from different sides under the base of the toilet bowl. Sooner or later, he will sway, announcing that the deed is done.
Then, again, we feed the toilet towards ourselves, pulling out its outlet from the sewer socket strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, don't pull harder, but rock the toilet slightly from side to side. Of course, before that it is better to turn off the water on the tank and drain the water.

Installation at a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water pipes will be small, we will not need to alter the sewer system or build up the water pipe.

We will connect the toilet with the sewer with a corrugation. This corrugated pipe, in general, has rubber seals on both sides; but it's a good idea to stock up on sewer pipe silicone sealant.

In addition, you will need a set of fasteners for the toilet.

Important: fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
The steel screws must not be pressed directly against the faience.

This is what the whole set will look like.

Clean the toilet outlet and drain socket of debris and wipe dry.
Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mounts and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first pass it with a drill through a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
Put the corrugation on the toilet outlet, after applying the sealant.
Pull the toilet to the floor. He needs to stop staggering, nothing more. Cover the gaps between the base and the tile with cement mortar - this will prevent the lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet bowl, creating additional support for it.
Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
Enjoy.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is slanted

Difficult case

The assembly of plastic sewerage is extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

You will probably have to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross in order to lower the sewer to the floor level. With plastic, this will not cause problems; in the case of cast iron, it is better to preheat the next socket with a blowtorch or gas burner. In this case, the sealant-bond will burn out and the cement putty will crack. Further extraction of the pipe from the socket is a simple matter. It is better to mount the sewer directly from the riser. The tee was wrapped in a bag to get rid of odors.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket - use a cuff - a sealant. It is better to put it on a silicone sealant, first of all, well lubricating its joint with a cast-iron pipe.
A slope towards the riser is required, but small: 1-2 cm per linear meter of pipe.
If the joints of cast-iron pipes are filled with sulfur, they are also annealed with a blowtorch, but the smell will be monstrous. Ventilation of the room and a gas mask are required.
Instead of precisely fitting the plastic sewer to the toilet outlet, you can also use corrugation. There is only one condition: it must be available for replacement. If this is not possible, it is better to do without it.

With modern materials, this option will not create problems either.

Conclusion

It seems that the article answered the question of whether it is possible to transfer the toilet bowl. Can; Moreover, there are no particular difficulties in this.

Good luck with the repair!

Source: https://kanalizaciyadoma.ru/unitazy/kak-perenesti-unitaz-343

Toilet close to the wall

Any professional plumber knows: connecting a toilet bowl to a sewer using corrugations is done only in exceptional cases, when it is impossible to do otherwise. The standard connection is made by a fan pipe.

This connection allows you to bring the toilet as close as possible to the wall. Installing the toilet close to the wall with corrugations is often impossible.

In addition to tight installation, the fan pipe is easy to replace, suitable for both oblique toilet outlets and straight ones.

Types of toilet pipes

The phrase "fan pipe" has a broad meaning, today we will consider only a toilet pipe. This is a continuation of the 110 mm sewer pipe with a cuff for connecting the toilet outlet. In fact, a standard corrugation is one of the varieties of a fan pipe.

There are many variations of fan pipes, but I want to highlight the usual, straight one - in nine out of ten cases it is suitable for use. As a standard, the straight drain pipe measures ∅110 mm × 250 mm (long) - it satisfies most toilet connection options.

How to install a toilet against a wall

The pipe can be shortened to the desired length, as long as it is inserted into the main sewer at least 50 mm.

When the height of the outlet of the sewer does not match the height of the outlet of the toilet bowl or, for some reason, does not fit into the oblique outlet, an eccentric type fan pipe will come to the rescue. The eccentric allows you to connect the toilet when the axes of the sewer pipe and outlet do not match. Similar situations arise when replacing the toilet bowl with another model or rash wiring of sewer pipes in the bathroom.

By this is meant the closest location of the tank to the wall. By the way, there is no need to make the tank touch the back wall. More practical for washing and maintenance will be a small gap of 5-10 cm between the tank and the wall.

To implement this solution when distributing sewerage, the drain riser should be located as close to the wall as possible, if possible. This applies to both vertical risers and horizontal outlets ∅110 mm.

If the pipes are planned to be sewn up with a drywall box and tiled, the thickness of the plasterboard and tiles with glue should be taken into account. During the installation of the sewer, it is necessary to use the future toilet for fitting on site. During fitting, the fan pipe can be cut to the estimated length, but it is better to make a few centimeters of stock so as not to be mistaken. It is better to shorten the pipe several times than to cut too much and buy a new one.

When trying on the toilet bowl and putting the sewer in the right position, one should not forget about the general slope of the sewer pipes towards the water drain of 2-4%.

I especially singled out the supply of the length of the fan pipe, also due to the fact that when communications are installed, as a rule, there are no tiles on the floor yet. Therefore, floor tiles and adhesive thickness should also be taken into account.

If communications are planned to be sewn up with a box, the height of the box with tiles should also be taken into account so that the toilet does not cling to its part above the outlet where the tank is attached. When the pipes are exposed, the toilet is removed, all the boxes are assembled according to the idea.

That's actually all I wanted to talk about connecting the toilet with a fan pipe. And finally, a few photos with a corner installation.

In the following publications, we will definitely consider the installation of the installation.

Return to the section "Apartment repair"

Repair in the bathroom: how to move the toilet to another

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.

But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes suitable for it.

Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, the transfer of the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage.

Theoretically, with the correct installation of the pipes and regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of blockages.

According to the requirements of SNiP, a plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when transferring the toilet bowl to another place is compliance with the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of effluent transportation decreases, and blockages may appear.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transport sewer channel from the toilet to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have right angle turns. If such laying of the pipeline is not possible, two 450 elbows are installed in places of sharp bends of 900.

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

The easy way

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the layer of putty with a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with the application of a little effort, we try to loosen the toilet bowl. For which you may need the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen until the equipment begins to swing freely;
we raise the toilet bowl. Having grasped the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct efforts towards ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, you should not make much effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instruction, and swing the device again.

After dismantling the device, you can begin to prepare for its installation in a new location. We examine the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, change it to a new corrugation.

The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant.

You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with a pobedite coating, if it is a tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the toilet outlet and the socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation to the sealing ring, and pull it onto the toilet bowl socket;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, we coat the gaps formed between the floor and the base with cement;
at the end of the installation, we lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

The differences are in the need to increase the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture.

Laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

How to install a toilet closer to the wall

When carrying out repairs in small or combined bathrooms, when literally every centimeter of free space counts, the task of bringing the toilet bowl as close to the wall as possible often arises.

The tee or bend is very rarely located or oriented well in relation to the outlet of the toilet, which in turn can be straight or oblique.

With such tasks, it is impossible to use a corrugation for connection and the entire connection is made on bends (corners), which are in a wide variety of angles of inclination.

In addition to the selection of corners, to get the toilet as close to the wall as possible, they will also need to be trimmed and trimmed. Height reduction is performed by cutting off half of the socket of the tee and the branch itself.

For the next stage of approach, the outlet socket is also cut off.

Accordingly, after this, the outlet of the toilet bowl will be a little long and it should also be cut off.

After all such barbarous circumcisions, it is necessary to carefully and tightly connect the cut tee and branch.

As a sealing seal in such cases, black HB electrical tape is ideal, the rubberized adhesive base of which, in combination with silicone sealant, will create a reliable connection. Such a connection is no worse than on standard socket rubber seals.

An electrical tape wound in several turns (the number is selected experimentally) will perfectly seal such a connection, while silicone will help to make a tight connection and hermetically fill all possible voids.

This technology of approaching the toilet bowl to the wall is possible for use on toilet bowls and with direct outlets, when it is also necessary to adjust the height of the tap and move the toilet bowl a couple of cm to the wall.

How to properly install a toilet

If the sewer riser is far from the wall, then it is possible to move the pipe leading to the toilet with the help of bends by 30 ° or 15 °. And for maximum shear, you may have to gouge the wall a little for the pipe.

All this makes sense only in small bathrooms, when you literally have to gain every centimeter of free space and shifting the toilet seat by 5-10 cm. body movements.

With all such undercuts of bends, the base of the toilet bowl also approaches the drain pipe, and on some types of toilet bowls, a situation is possible when this base, due to its elongated rear part, will go under the pipe, making it difficult to make a full-fledged box. In this case, it will be necessary to simply leave an open niche at the stage of manufacturing the box, into which this oversized part of the base of the toilet will go.

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without redevelopment of the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment.

Possible problems when moving the toilet

The increase in the free space of the toilet room pushes for thought and reinstallation of the bathroom. Is moving the toilet to the side realistic?

Yes, but in order for plumbing to function properly, you should know some subtleties.

Experts voice the following nuances of such a transfer:

The likelihood of blockage increases with distance from the riser, because sewage overcomes a long way.
Flushing water is accompanied by an unpleasant odor (sewer stench) and gurgling sounds. A high vacuum is formed in a long pipeline, which leads to the suction of water from the appliances (located nearby plumbing) and the failure of their hydraulic valves.

With the right approach to solving the issue, such problems can be avoided. Moving a toilet from a riser - a process that is regulated current regulations (SNiP).

Sewer line requirements:

Use of pipes whose diameter is in the range of 50 ... 100 mm. The optimal section is considered to be 100 mm, which is brought to the toilet (the minimum risk of a vacuum or a “plug” from sewage).
The maximum distance from the toilet to the riser is 1.5m. If the pipe is longer, the capacity of the drain tank will not be enough to push the fecal matter. They settle on the walls of the pipeline, and a blockage is formed.
Observance of the correct slope. For each meter of pipeline, it is 2 cm (for a section of 100 mm) or 3 cm (for a 50 mm section).

With an underestimated angle of inclination of the drain, 100% clogging of the sewer is guaranteed, since the flow rate of the liquid is reduced. If the slope is too high, the flow develops excessive speed, which is why solid particles accumulate in the pipe. As a result, the flow of water is blocked.

The easiest way to get the required slope is to provide a podium for the installation of the toilet, lifting it above the surface (sometimes by a significant amount). Here you can hide plumbing communications.

Lack of right angles when laying a new sewer. If this condition is not met, installation at an angle of 45° is allowed (two such angles instead of one straight).

If you put the toilet in the apartment, taking into account these simple rules, then the likelihood of a blockage will be minimized (drainage is discharged by gravity).

In practice, to move the toilet, you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

Mark the distance that you can move the bathroom. You will need to fix one end of a one and a half meter twine on the riser and draw an arc with chalk (tied to the other end of the rope).
Choose the most suitable location for the toilet and install it. It is advisable not to leave the maximum distance zone marked on the floor.
Measure the height difference between the center of the drain pipe and the floor. Compare the received data with the height of the inset point. If it turns out to be higher, you will have to build a podium, with which the drain pipe rises 30 mm above the riser tee (tie-in point).
Fix the plumbing on the podium (floor) and connect it to the drain system, ensuring the pipeline is as straight as possible (avoid right angles).

It is not necessary to carry out a hard supply of cold water to the toilet, it is much easier to use a long flexible hose.

Toilet in the apartment: how to transfer the toilet bowl from the riser

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without redevelopment of the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment. Increasing the free space of the toilet

Ways to transfer the toilet from the riser to another place

Due to the small area of the bathroom, often, when carrying out a major overhaul of the restroom, it becomes necessary to move sanitary equipment. In order to effectively use the free space, as a rule, many people prefer to redevelop the premises.

The result of these works is the transfer of the toilet from the riser. Since this process is related to the issues of water supply, drainage of the device, its solution must be taken as responsibly as possible.

Reasons for moving the toilet

Before proceeding with the process of dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one, consider the main reasons for its transfer.

Changing the layout of the bathroom. In this case, all operations are coordinated, at a minimum, with the Housing Inspection, the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision, the State Fire Supervision, and the Architectural and Planning Department. Only after obtaining permission, redevelopment of the restroom is carried out. When moving a wall, the old location of the device can cause discomfort, which is why it becomes necessary to move it.
Replacing the old device with a new one, which has a much larger size. If, due to the dimensions of the updated design, it cannot be installed in the previous location, the product should be relocated.
Buying new furniture for the bathroom.

Remember, regardless of motivation, the old toilet should be removed whole, the sewer should be redone, and only after that proceed with installing the device at another point in the restroom. For this purpose, often, use a long flexible eyeliner.

Moving a toilet (the easy way)

This method involves moving sanitary equipment to a distance that does not exceed 30cm.

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure in a new place, it is necessary to dismantle the old device.

The sequence of work depends on the method of installing plumbing.

If the device is fixed using standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, you must:

unscrew the screws that fix the toilet to the floor;
pull out the outlet of the device from the socket of the sewer line

Consider the sequence of work in the case of placing the toilet on an adhesive or cement base.

Before dismantling the device, shut off the water supply valve to the tank, and drain the liquid from the tank.

Remove the putty between the outlet of the structure and the sewer socket.

Remember, work must be done as carefully as possible to exclude the possibility of a split in the outlet, otherwise the device is not subject to further operation.

Shatter the toilet. For this purpose, a wide chisel is driven in from different sides of the base of the structure.
Pull the outlet, strictly along the axis, from the sewer socket.

After the successful dismantling of the structure, proceed to the installation process of the product. Since the distance from the new location of the toilet to the water supply and sewerage network is small, there is no need to build up pipelines.

Let us consider in more detail the process of installing a toilet bowl in a new place.

Clean the outlet of the device and the sewer socket.
Mark new holes in the floor covering for fixing the toilet bowl and then drill them.
Put the corrugation on the outlet of the device, while it is important to first apply the sealant to the surface.
Cover the gaps between the base and the flooring with cement mortar, this will create additional support for the structure.
Insert the corrugation into the socket.

After performing the above operations, you should check the operability of the device.

Moving a toilet (the hard way)

If it is necessary to move the device to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, it is necessary to remake the sewer.

Mounting and dismantling of the device will be similar to a simple method. At the same time, in order to build up the drainage pipeline, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used.

Remember, the length of the structure and the choice of corners depend on the location of the toilet.

The nuances that should be considered in the process of assembling a plastic sewer

Ensure that there is a slope towards the riser: 2 cm per linear meter.
When removing a cast-iron branch from a tee, a crosspiece to the device, preheat the socket with a blowtorch. The result of this procedure is the burnout of the sealant and the cracking of the cement putty. After that, you need to remove the pipe from the socket.

Sewer installation should be carried out directly from the riser.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket, use a sealing collar.
Sulfur-filled joints of cast-iron pipes are annealed with a blowtorch.

Remember, in order to minimize labor costs, instead of accurately fitting the plastic pipes of the drainage system to the toilet outlet, you can use corrugation.

For the effective functioning of the sewer system, it is important to consider the following rules in the process of connecting plumbing equipment.

The greater the distance from the toilet to the sewer riser, the higher it should be placed. This will create the necessary slope of the pipe for unhindered drainage of wastewater.

If the structure is far from the riser, it is necessary to provide for the construction of a podium.

It is forbidden to fix the toilet bowl, pipelines to the inter-apartment walls, as well as to displace the sewer risers.
Plumbing fixtures should be connected to the main line at an angle of 45 or 135 degrees.

Remember, you can not connect the toilet to the sewer system at a right angle, as this will inevitably lead to clogging of the pipe.

For the possibility of carrying out preventive work, in the places where the pipeline turns, it is important to provide for the presence of special hatches.

Thus, if it is necessary to transfer the toilet bowl from the riser to a new location, it is important to initially consult with the architect, familiarize yourself with the rules for installing the structure, measure the distance from the sewer system to the device, and only after that choose the necessary method and proceed with the work process.

Ways to transfer the toilet from the riser to another place

Ways to transfer the toilet bowl from the riser to another place Due to the small area of the bathroom, it often becomes necessary to move

How to move the toilet from the riser when combining a bath with a toilet?

Good afternoon! Considering a bathroom renovation. We want to combine it with the toilet. For the convenience of redevelopment, you need to move the toilet. I doubt that this is possible ... Is it real? And how to do it so as not to run into problems in the further operation of the equipment?

Hello! You can move the toilet some distance from the riser. However, this event, simple at first glance, has many nuances on which the further use of the equipment depends. Plumbers warn that the greater the distance the sewer riser will have to overcome sewage, the higher the risk of blockage. Some "masters" argue that this is not so, because theoretically pollution will "get" to the target anyway. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to "fix" in place on a long journey.

Another problem is the appearance of an unpleasant sewer smell in the room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in sewer pipes that are too long. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the failure of their water seals. In addition to smells from the sewer, unpleasant gurgling sounds will also appear. To avoid the above problems, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

In some cases, when moving the toilet from the riser, it is required to raise the equipment to a small podium to provide the necessary slope for the sewer pipes

The document prescribes to move the toilet no more than 1.5 m from the sewer riser. In addition to the “correct” removal, it is also necessary to observe the required slope under which the pipeline should be laid. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. For elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope cannot be less than 3 cm per meter. These recommendations should be strictly observed, otherwise problems with blockages cannot be avoided. Decreasing the recommended settings will result in a slower fluid flow, resulting in blockages. Increasing the slope, on the other hand, will cause the water to move too fast. She will not have time to capture solid contaminants, which will begin to accumulate in the pipe and eventually completely block it.

It turns out that most often the toilet bowl, when transferred to another place, has to be raised in order to provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be somehow masked. Given that its diameter is large enough, you may need to raise the floor or equip a small podium, especially for plumbing equipment.

Another important detail: when laying a new pipeline, right angles should be avoided. If you can’t do without them, proceed as follows: mount two angles of 45 ° instead of one of 90 °. Otherwise, the likelihood of blockages in the pipe increases dramatically. All of the above requirements are mandatory when transferring the toilet. However, even they do not work if it is required to move the equipment to a greater distance than indicated in the SNIP, or if its recommendations are difficult to implement. There is a solution in this case too.

The first is the transfer of the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewage. It makes the system work in conditions where conventional gravity sewerage cannot cope with its functions. To equip such a structure, a sololift or a fecal pump is usually used. This is a compact device that can be placed behind the toilet bowl or even inside it. The device, which is a powerful pump equipped with chopper blades, pumps out sewage, grinds solid waste, and pushes the resulting mass into the sewer.

One of the main advantages of the equipment is the ability to use sewer pipes of small diameter: from 18 to 40 mm, which are very easy to hide even behind a plasterboard wall. The power of the pump is quite high. With it, you can easily remove sewage to a distance of about 5-7 m vertically and about 100 m horizontally. No additional construction work is required to install the device. When choosing a sololift for forced sewerage, it should be borne in mind that if you plan to connect a washing machine or a shower cabin to it, you need to choose models with relatively high temperature limits for drains. Otherwise, the device will fail very quickly.

Versions are available with short-term protection, which allows the pump to pump hot drains. However, it is designed only for half an hour operation. Permanent work with a heated liquid is also contraindicated for such devices. In the technical part, the recommendations for transferring the toilet from the riser are not much different from the standard instructions for connecting the device. The only difference is in the installation of a longer pipeline laid at a slope. Installation of the grinder pump is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the instructions.

How to move the toilet from the riser - advice from an expert

When remodeling a bathroom, it is often necessary to move the toilet some distance from the riser. Consider the problems that may arise and ways to solve them.

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

everything is possible, you just need to take it seriously and find out everything. Of course, you can put the toilet in the middle of the room and enjoy life, but if you do the sewerage and drains incorrectly, then soon the whole room will be in.

Very important! For each meter of outlet there should be a rise of about 3-4 cm, otherwise the contents of the toilet simply will not go away, etc. Thus, if you move the toilet 2 meters, then at the base of the toilet, the height of the connection should be 7 cm, if 3 meters, then about 10 cm. Can you afford such a lift? After all, to do this, you need to either put the toilet on a pedestal, or raise the floor

Not everything is so simple, from a technical point of view, you can move the toilet anywhere, even into the living room, bring water without problems, but the slope of the pipes cannot be sustained for a length of more than 5 meters, the toilet will simply be “under the ceiling”, there is a way out forced sewage.

Technically, everything is solved, the problem is different.

Bathrooms cannot be made above the kitchens and above the living quarters of the neighbors below.

This is the first point that sharply limits the concept of “to another place”.

From other places, the actual bathroom itself remains inside which you can move the toilet bowl anywhere and the corridor.

The toilet in the hallway is certainly fun, but not very convenient.

There are exceptions, if you live on the first floor and there are no living or utility rooms under you (workshops in the basement, gyms, etc.), then you can move it wherever you want.

Or if you are the owner of a duplex apartment.

In this case, your toilet bowl, above your own kitchen, may well be installed.

You can move the toilet and nothing, and no one will stop you from doing it, but besides putting it in a convenient desired place, you need to connect it to the water supply (this is not such a big problem) and the sewage system is already more difficult here!

Plumbing is an easy problem to solve, soldering plastic or putting a longer supply hose is not difficult, but you can’t accelerate much with sewage, there should be a central riser nearby, since laying a 100 mm pipe or corrugation is too far from aesthetically pleasing, and is fraught with blockages.

Therefore, a riser is needed, in apartments they often have bathrooms and closets, and even happen in corridors and kitchens, respectively, all adjoining rooms will be in the access zone to them.

You need to decide, connect and equip a suitable room - that's all, if you are afraid of problems with the housing, do not be afraid, but do not tell everyone on every corner, otherwise you will have to register the redevelopment!

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

In standard-type apartments, the bathroom most often has the most limited area, it is for this reason that the owners have to use every free space as painstakingly as possible. As a result, very often there is a desire to move the toilet to another corner or turn it around. This event is responsible and difficult. In order to carry out the work, you can turn to specialists, or you can do it on your own, the main thing is to figure out how to do the job correctly.

If the toilet needs to be moved to a distance that does not exceed 20 cm, then the work will not be difficult. Placement of equipment can be any. The main thing is to know the minimum distance not only in relation to pipes or walls, but also for the sink. To move the toilet to the left or right, you must first remove its connection from the knees and the water supply. You should start by removing the old device. If the old toilet was installed on cement or special glue, then you will have to tinker with the elimination. If you do at least one wrong action, the toilet can crack. Of course, if you plan to install a new device, then there is no need to be careful, but if this is not the case, then you need to turn off the water and carefully dismantle it.

It consists of 3 steps:

We eliminate, putty putty in the space between the sewer socket and the outlet of the toilet bowl. In order to carry out this work, you can use a thin chisel or a flat screwdriver.
Gently begin to loosen the toilet. Here it would be appropriate to use a wide chisel, which needs to be hammered into different places. Repeat this action until the device begins to shake thoroughly.
We are trying to raise the device. To do this, gently pull it towards you and remove the release along the axis. Experts say that if the device does not give in, then you cannot use force, try to swing it even more and only then pull it.

The toilet bowl, which was installed on standard fasteners, and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, will be removed much easier. To remove it, you will need to remove the screws that are the main fastener. After that, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out its release.

If you want the device to be in working condition after removal, all manipulations must be carried out very carefully.

Also be extremely careful with the fixing putty when removing it. After all the dismantling work has been carried out, you can begin to prepare for the installation of the toilet bowl in a new place. Carefully inspect the flexible hose, if its length is insufficient or it leaks, then you need to replace it with a new one. If everything suits you, leave it in the old place. How the toilet looks in the corner, how to move it diagonally, lift it and put it on the podium, you can find out by looking at the photo, one day is enough for training.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? A few tips for those who want to get rid of it:

We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor

When it comes to repairs in the bathroom, many are faced with such a problem as changing the level of the exit and pipes for connecting plumbing. This is mainly because the floor level is changing and the plumbing is being rearranged. In any case, there is a task to raise the toilet bowl higher.

In order to cope with the problem of mismatching fittings, it is enough to purchase new adapters. If you have a problem with the mismatch of the axes of the pipeline, then it is better to use flexible hoses or organize new pipe gaskets. The coincidence of these holes determines at what level your toilet will be from the floor.

First you need to choose a place for installation and install the device on wooden bars in order to organize a new level.

Make sure that the horizontal position is observed and that all the pins and the drain pipe are aligned.

After that, remove the fixtures and measure the thickness of those linings that you put in order to create a new level for plumbing.

To replace the toilet lid so that the fasteners match. You will learn how to choose and install it correctly if you read our material:

In order to have an idea of how to do the above, you must think through all the subtleties of the base in advance. You can use wood, but this will not be the best option, as the wood rots under the influence of condensate. It is best to use a concrete screed. In this case, screws and dowels will be needed for fastening. At the moment, it is widespread to mount the device to the base with glue.

Is it possible to make a large distance from the toilet to the riser

In order to expand the available space in the toilet room, many decide to take the step of moving the toilet from one side to the other. Transferring the device to another corner is possible, however, in order for it to continue to function fully, you need to know some points.

As for the pipeline, certain requirements are also put forward for it, which must be immediately taken into account.

For example:

You can use pipes with a diameter of 50 to 100mm, the most optimal are pipes with a cross section of 100mm;
The distance from the device to the riser should be a maximum of 1.5 m, if the length is longer, then the drain power from the barrel will not be enough to push through the waste and a blockage will appear;
Observe the correct slope, it depends on the section of the pipe.

If the slope is lowered, then there is a high probability of clogging, as the fluid flow is reduced. If, on the contrary, the slope is too high, then the flow rate will be excessive and solid parts will collect in the pipe, which will subsequently block the movement of water. How to move the toilet close to the wall, what is the maximum distance from the wall and how far can the toilet be from the drain, you can learn from the training video.

Installation of a toilet bowl in an apartment should be carried out with high quality. Full algorithm of actions and advice from professionals on the next page:

Changing the environment: how to turn the toilet 90 degrees

Sometimes there are situations when you want to completely change the design of the bathroom and purchase a new toilet, in which case you can turn the toilet 90 degrees. The work is very simple, the main thing is to know some technical nuances, rules and subtleties.

To carry out the rearrangement, it is not necessary to deal with the digestion of pipes.

Recently, the use of corner bends and corrugated pipes has become popular.

Corrugated pipes are best suited to deploy the toilet in an already installed place. If you not only deploy the device, but also transfer it to another place, then it is more expedient to use pipes of the required diameter, which are made of plastic. Using these methods, you can easily not only deploy, but also move the toilet to the desired location. But make sure that the corrugation is not subjected to excessive stretching, as this can lead to a break. This method will help not only to rotate the device, but also to rearrange it in the other direction, for example, closer to the sink, or move it as far as necessary.

How to move the toilet to another place (video)

As you can see from this article, moving a toilet is not such a difficult thing, of course, if you are convinced of your skills. If you are going to do this business for the first time, and are not aware of all the intricacies, then it is better to contact specialists who will not only carefully carry out the installation, but also organize careful dismantling, so that the old device will not be damaged and will last for a long time.

What else to read

What does "wear a hat on a butch" mean? In domestic places not so remote, all prisoners are divided into four prison castes (they are also called ...

How and how much you can drink coffee from chicory If doctors categorically forbid you to drink coffee, then do not despair! Chicory will be an excellent substitute for your favorite ...

What foods promote serotonin synthesis? We have all heard of the miraculous hormone of happiness. It is found in chocolate and bananas, after which the mood ...

Is it possible to deploy the toilet from the riser. Is it possible to move the toilet from the riser and how to do it correctly? Transferring the toilet: possible risks

Combining a bathroom

Expanding the kitchen with a bathroom

How to move the toilet to another place

Repair in the bathroom: how to move the toilet to another

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

Toilet transfer - will there be problems with flushing?

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

The easy way

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

What should you pay attention to?

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

Why is this needed?

We move the toilet

simple case

Dismantling

Installation at a new location

Difficult case

Conclusion

"Pitfalls" of these works

Toilet transfer technology

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

Option #2 - long distance transfer

Is it still worth it to do this work yourself?

How to move the toilet: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, can it be moved, price, photo

Why is this needed?

simple case

Dismantling

Installation at a new location

Difficult case

Conclusion

Toilet close to the wall

Types of toilet pipes

How to install a toilet against a wall

Return to the section "Apartment repair"

Repair in the bathroom: how to move the toilet to another

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

The easy way

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

What should you pay attention to?

How to install a toilet closer to the wall

How to properly install a toilet

Possible problems when moving the toilet

Ways to transfer the toilet from the riser to another place

Reasons for moving the toilet

Moving a toilet (the easy way)

Moving a toilet (the hard way)

The nuances that should be considered in the process of assembling a plastic sewer

How to move the toilet from the riser when combining a bath with a toilet?

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor

Is it possible to make a large distance from the toilet to the riser

Changing the environment: how to turn the toilet 90 degrees

How to move the toilet to another place (video)

What else to read

THE LAST NOTES

Categories