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Beloved, I will give you this ... no, not a star, a chandelier! collect, fasten to the ceiling and connect! How to assemble a chandelier photo instruction. Assembling a chandelier with your own hands How to assemble a recessed ceiling lamp

Many owners of apartments and houses during the renovation decide to change not only the finish and design, but also the lamps. Today, it is rare to find a chandelier on sale, consisting of one light bulb and a ceiling. Manufacturers of lighting fixtures offer the most complex designs with intricate designs, very luxurious and beautiful, but the trouble is, it is sometimes quite difficult to assemble this miracle of design thought. Most often, the instructions for the box with the packed lamp parts are not included, and therefore, the owner of the shining beauty needs to solve the problem himself and answer the question of how to assemble the chandelier. However, do not despair, because, despite the variety of different types of lamps, the principle of assembly and connection for chandeliers is almost the same. If you master the chandelier assembly scheme once, you can cope with any lighting device, regardless of the number of horns, design features and other characteristics. Today, as an example, we will tell you how to assemble a chandelier with 3 lamps and 5 lamps, and consider the construction of other lamps.

General arrangement of lamps and chandeliers

Before proceeding with the installation of lighting fixtures, consider their device. The luminaire consists of the following parts:

Plafond. The element performs, first of all, a protective role (closes the incandescent lamp), and secondly, a decorative function. The plafond is made of plastic, glass, metal. To get to the insides of any lamp, the cover must be removed. Depending on the mounting methods, the ceiling can be twisted, attached to the body with latches or bolts.

Important! The most common mount is plastic rings that are screwed onto the thread of the cartridge.

Lamp. Various types of lamps can be used in lighting fixtures. Experts recommend in the kitchen and in the rooms to use energy-saving - fluorescent lamps, and better - LED.
Cartridge. The element may have a different design. In conventional ceiling lights, the cartridge is screwed to the body with 2 bolts. In some models, the bolts can be unscrewed immediately, but, in most models, you must first disassemble the cartridge and remove the core.
Reflector. In most models for houses and apartments, it does not apply. But it is very often used in office ceiling fixtures and spotlights. A reflector with a white or mirror surface is used to create a directional light.
Power supply or start-regulating device. If necessary, a power supply unit is installed in the case, which is necessary for the operation of LED and fluorescent lamps. However, popular energy-saving models for a conventional cartridge almost always come with a built-in circuit inside and are simply screwed in instead of incandescent bulbs.

How to assemble a lamp?

Lamps are:

Suspended.
Overhead.
Embedded.

Important! Spotlights have become very popular in recent years. They appeared along with suspended ceilings and solved the issue of economical and competent lighting. Each recessed lamp gives a little light, its main advantage is mobility. You can install lamps on the ceiling anywhere, any way, in any quantity.

The luminaires come with a separately packed body and shade. Suspended and overhead lamps are installed quite simply:

Attach the body.
Connect the device to the power supply.
Install the plafond.

With spotlights and chandeliers, the situation is much more complicated. Below we will dwell in more detail on the assembly of ceiling spotlights and tell you how to assemble sconces and chandeliers.

How to assemble a ceiling lamp?

Installation of a ceiling lamp is possible in:

Suspended ceiling.
Stretch.
Plasterboard.
Rack.

In addition, spotlights can have a different design, for example, have a movable outer part that allows you to direct the light in a certain direction.

The number of recessed spotlights is determined depending on the characteristics of the room:

Square. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is small (bathroom or bathroom), then one device is enough, if the room allows, then you can place lamps around the perimeter of the ceiling.
Layout.
Color decision.

Ceiling recessed bathroom light is different from other similar fixtures. It is more suitable for operation in conditions of high humidity. The luminaire does not let water and steam through due to the glass or plastic located above the main part of the device. For bathroom fixtures, for safety reasons, use lamps whose power does not exceed 12-24 watts. In the event of a short circuit or other malfunctions, such lamps will not harm human health.
When calculating the number of lamps for a room, be guided by the rule: 1 lamp per 1 sq.m. The distance between the devices should be about 30 cm, and the distance to the wall about 20 cm. Plan the installation locations of the devices in advance, before installing the false ceiling. It is necessary to conduct wires to the fixing points of the fixtures, and in the case of a stretch ceiling, install fixing rings. Install and connect spotlights to the rack false ceiling at the end of the repair.

Important! Install ceiling lights in the bathroom together with a transformer. To determine which transformer is needed, multiply the number of lamps by their power. The result obtained will show the power of the required transformer.

Tools for the job

To install a spotlight, you will need the following tools:

Electrical cable with clamps.
Drill with a long drill.
Round nozzle for a drill for making holes.
Pliers.
Screwdriver.
Insulating tape.
Junction box.
Protective caps for electric wires.
Nippers for removing insulation.
Protective equipment: goggles, gloves.

Step-by-step instruction:

Turn off the electricity in the room and make sure the room is de-energized.
Make markings with a pencil of the location of the devices.
Put on safety goggles and gloves.
Cut a round hole of the desired size in the ceiling (the hole should fit the body of the device), using a drill and a round nozzle. The hole should be slightly smaller than the decorative outer part of the appliance.

Important! In the plasterboard ceiling, make holes before puttying and finishing work.

Run the cable from the power supply to the junction box. To avoid further expansion of the holes, use a drill with a long drill bit.
Open the junction box and connect the cable like this:
1. Remove the top layer of insulation from the end of the cable.
2. Connect the stripped wires to the box wires.
3. Twist the wires as follows: black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
4. Fasten the wires with pliers.
5. Put protective caps on the connected wires.
Pack the wires in a box and close the lid.
Install the base part of the instrument housing into the ceiling opening (the junction box must go beyond the ceiling panels). Many instrument designs are secured with clips that snap into place automatically.
Install the bulb itself according to the manufacturer's instructions. The body of each lamp is equipped with a fastener, with which it is easy to fix the final part.
Connect the electricity and enjoy the light.

Important! Spotlights are installed in the stretch ceiling in the same way, only the holes are not drilled, but cut out inside the heat-resistant ring with a knife.

How to assemble a chandelier with 5 lights?

We will break down the entire installation process into stages to make it easier for you to understand everything.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

Wire stripper.
Electric screwdriver.
Screwdrivers or screwdriver with a set of bits.
Wrench.
Drill and drill bit with a pobedite tip (diameter 6mm) for mounting the fixing strip on a concrete or reinforced concrete ceiling. On a plasterboard suspended ceiling, installation can be carried out using self-tapping screws or a butterfly dowel.

After you have prepared the necessary tools, proceed as follows:

Open the light box. Do this carefully so as not to damage the parts. Factory products, as a rule, are supplied in blocks: housing, shades, horns with shades for light bulbs, terminal blocks. Wires must be connected to all nodes.

Important! Be sure to check that the number of parts matches the description of the instrument model. Check the completeness before starting installation.

Fragile elements (plafonds, remote control, light bulbs, etc.) set aside.
Take the rest of the parts out of the package.

The mechanical part of the chandelier assembly

Assemble the upper part of the central body of the instrument. Proceed as follows:

Take a decorative "plate".
Install the plate on the chandelier rod.
Tighten the top nut.

Attach the horns to the body. Depending on the model and design of the device, the number of horns may be different. But the technology of their fastening remains unchanged. Proceed as follows to assemble a chandelier with 5 lights:

Unscrew the decorative nut and remove the protective cover from the central body of the chandelier.
Take one of the horns, remove the nut and lock washer from it.
Insert the horn into the appropriate hole, secure with the removed nut and washer.
Install all horns in the same way.
Check the symmetry of the location of the horns relative to each other. If necessary, adjust their placement.
Tighten the fixing nuts with a wrench.

The electrical part - we connect the wires in the chandelier

This is the most crucial stage when you need to assemble a chandelier with 5 lamps. There are two connection options:

to a single switch. In this case, all the lights will light up at the same time.
To double. With a five-arm lamp, you can plan to turn on two and three light bulbs separately, but for this you need to start another wire, since the manufacturer starts only two groups: phase and zero.

The grouping of wires depends on the type of connection. A single switch will have 2 groups, and a double switch will have 3 groups. Separation of the cable is carried out by color. Each horn at the output has 2 wires with insulation of different colors:

Blue wires are zero.
Brown - phase.

Important! First you need to work with wires of the same color, for example, "phase", and then - group wires of a different color - "zero".

Consider separately the connection to a single-key switch and to a double one.

Connecting wires in a chandelier under a single-gang switch

In this embodiment, the connection is very simple, since the phase and neutral wires are suitable for the chandelier, and there are also two wires in each horn. So proceed as follows:

Strip the first group of wires from insulation by 1-2 cm (phase).
Connect them together.
Strip and connect all neutral wires of the horns. You should have 2 groups of wires.
Connect the wire groups to the main supply wire using protective caps. It is not recommended to twist the wires without protective caps (connector), since the contacts, remaining not insulated, quickly oxidize, as a result, a short circuit may occur.
Connect the second group of wires to the other center wire in the same way.
Place the wires neatly into the case.
Close the bottom cover and tighten the decorative nut.

Important! For reliability, the place of twisting of wires can be soldered.

The chandelier is assembled. All other decorative elements, ceiling lamps and light bulbs are not yet put in place, since you first need to fix the chandelier to the ceiling and connect it to the power supply.

Connecting wires in a chandelier under a two-gang switch

First you need to divide the horns of the chandelier into two groups:

If you have an even number of bulbs, then in this case it is very easy to separate them, for example, odd - 1 group, even - 2 group. Naturally, the neutral wires will be included in group 3. With this connection, harmony and symmetry will be achieved.
If you have a five-arm chandelier, then it will not work to split the wires into two groups symmetrically. Here you will have to connect in such a way that 3 lights turn on with one button, and 2 with the second. If you turn on both buttons at the same time, then all the lights will light up. Although, the options may be different.

So, let's get down to business:

Distribute the wires: “zero” - into 1 group, phase - divide into two blocks, one will be connected to horns 1, 3 and 5, and the second to 2 and 4.
Strip each group of wires from insulation by 1-2 cm.
Connect all groups to the main supply cable. The supply wire that enters the chandelier body must be three-core. All zero (blue) wires are connected to one core, the wires of the 1st group are connected to the second, and the wires of the 2nd group are connected to the third.
Insulate the wire connections.
Carefully place all the wires into the housing, close the decorative bottom cover and tighten the nut.
Install ceiling lamps and decorative elements after connecting the chandelier.

Important! To start a third wire for a two-gang switch, completely disassemble the chandelier body. To do this, together with the lower decorative nut, unscrew the upper one. Find the central rod, into which a two-wire wire is inserted from the factory, pull out the sealing plastic rings from the ends and the wire. Get a three-core wire (or just an additional wire of the same section). Secure the wires with sealing plastic rings at the ends.

After reading the title of the article, surely someone will definitely say - “why about e so-and-so write, with such work any landlord himself will be able to cope. Yes, of course, the installation and connection of a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if they are incorrect installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting fixture is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the mains and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

Find out useful information from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting fixture, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, at the same time, one should not forget about some other aspects of the choice.

The total luminous power of the chandelier should correspond to the size and type of the room for which it is intended. There are certain illumination standards, which can be summarized as follows:

— For rooms where soft, diffused, subdued light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), one should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W / m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bathroom, bathroom) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (study or nursery) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W / m².

- For rooms with bright illumination (living room), this indicator is taken equal to 20 W / m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting fixture with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you raise the overall illuminationusing more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of the ceiling lamps, cartridges, the cross section of the internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even to a fire hazard.

The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

- The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D- chandelier diameter in centimeters

L and S- the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The suspended option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
Chandeliers are most often sold unassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching of threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality goods and outright fakes for well-known brands. On such products, cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures, can be installed. They will issue a counterfeit poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisting of wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out wire switching, their desoldering and insulation in accordance with all the rules. In particular, this applies to "fancy" chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra chores, it is better to choose a product with a really high-quality cable and electrical "stuffing", demand assembly and testing of the product in the store.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lights

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

We deal with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article, we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions from the field of home wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out on two wires - phase and zero. If a ground loop is provided in the house (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and, most often, this issue is foreseen in new buildings), then a third wire connected to the ground bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking of wires of a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance - if the neutral wire always has a blue or blue color, and the ground contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire may vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting fixtures, to switch between different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and the house wiring should use this color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to safety measures when working with electrical wiring. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with bare hands, unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work under the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable foundation - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the easiest option is a cable with two wires coming out of the hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, zero should go directly to the junction box, and phase should be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “did not bother” with these issues.

To check, you must have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often, it is made in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent case, although modern models may have other designs, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment on the switchboard. This is necessary in order to thoroughly clean the wires from insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are bred to the sides as much as possible to prevent their short circuit. After that, turn on the machine on the shield.
Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked in sequence. None should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, then the wiring in the house is not done correctly - on the switch, apparently, “zero” is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - it should just be borne in mind, exercising special care in further work.

The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling holes should be like the appropriate amount phase wires. The check is carried out in the same way as described above, with the marking of each phase separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - just to eliminate the errors of the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

The easiest way is when the chandelier is one- or two-three-horn, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - zero and phase. If there is a ground wire, then it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

In the case when it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue "zero" wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often, this can be seen quite clearly on chandeliers, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the device of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, here you can figure it out by ringing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the cartridges (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and empirically find out which horn is powered from which wire. After that, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

To "ring out" hidden wires, you need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all cartridges, but in practice it is still probably easier to just ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and a group of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: wiring diagram for a five-arm chandelier to a two-gang switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything became clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of work depends on the design of the chandelier, and on the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of mounting chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-storey buildings, hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling holes at the construction stage. If it is worth it, then the problem is less, however, it does not hurt to check it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load is easily maintained, then there should not be any special concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? No problem, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw is easily screwed in there.

With a concrete floor slab, there can be various solutions:

— You can hang a hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the plate. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the wiring passing there with the rod.

- Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a “butterfly” lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with a spring retainer - "butterfly"

- If this option is not possible, for example, in the case when there is no "regular" opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it is useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If the internal cavity of the plate is caught during drilling, a special metal dowel for hollow structures - with screwing it in, a “skirt” is formed that securely holds the fastener in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. After that, it is recommended to insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting on it a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier for a regular mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply of the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected by terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks can occur on them with melting of the insulation. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram, about which it was written above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually closed with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch, in order to immediately verify that there are no short circuits. It does not hurt to check the absence of a phase on the metal body of the chandelier with an indicator. If everything is fine, then when the switch keys are turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed or inserted into the cartridge and the practical functionality of all chandelier horns is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can proceed to the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those designed for low spaces, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves the reliability of the overall installation, as the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting plate can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The bar can be straight or curved, with brackets for fixing the body of the lighting fixture, or with protruding studs or screws.

Particularly heavy chandeliers can be supplied with cruciform planks or in the form of a reinforced I-profile.

The bar may have a hole with the edges covered with an insulating sleeve for the passage of wires coming out of the ceiling. You can place the bar in the immediate vicinity of the cable outlet - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring.

The mounting plate is fixed to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on the specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference being that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a clamping head “under hide».

As well as when using a hook, the reliability of fastening under load must be checked.

The mount must be checked under load - in order to prevent such situations

Quite often, a situation occurs when the location of the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure the reliability of installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct executor of the work.

Fastening the chandelier itself to the mounting plate can also have its own characteristics. Perhaps, in this case, help is required - the lamp will have to be held on weight while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the body of the chandelier is attached to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was described above.

Features of fastening the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

By and large, the placement of the chandelier should not be planned even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or more additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting plate or installed a hook, which will then be easy to build up with a chain or rod. In the drywall sheet, a hole is immediately marked and drilled in the right place for the exit of wires and a hook.

But what if this question of hanging a chandelier arose later?

In the case when the lighting fixture is of a suspended type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the GVL - its strength is unlikely to be enough for a point load. You can do it like this:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening with a long drill installed in a puncher.

An anchor with a long threaded stud is inserted and fixed to the limit in the hole made, so that the stud comes out beyond the drywall plane.

An eye nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, to which the chandelier itself will later be hung. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring "butterfly" with a hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - everything same way, as when working on a conventional ceiling, only the fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it comes out.

If the chandelier is a console type, that is, it is installed on a mounting plate, then a lot depends on its mass.

- In the case when the total weight from the fixture does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can fix the bar directly to the GVL sheet. For this, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Dowels "butterfly" and "snail" for fixing parts on drywall

The first are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the drywall sheet when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second principle of operation is different - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwing in. The "snail" is screwed in completely, flush with the GVL surface, in the right place, and a hole remains in its center, into which an ordinary self-tapping screw easily enters.

- If the chandelier is heavier, then to fix the mounting plate, you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become mounts for a slatted or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from mounting a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: fixing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for different types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

No practical advice on self-assembly of the chandelier on a heavy ceiling will be given - this should be done only by masters and exclusively before hanging the ceiling canvas.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall on the planned height of the stretched canvas. Based on the location of this embedded platform, the craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, reinforcing their edges, through which the wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to cut holes on your own in order to hang the chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using methods of working like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. A deplorable, but logical result of such amateur performances will be the need for a complete replacement of the canvas.

After the “ceiling” masters finish their work, leaving the necessary holes reinforced with special eyelets for the chandelier and fasteners, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care so as not to break or puncture the surface in any case.

On a heavy ceiling, it is preferable to use a pendant one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, " halogens" or fluorescent "housekeepers" are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly spoil the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: an example of mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

Today it is rare to find a chandelier consisting of a primitive ceiling lamp for one light bulb. Increasingly, manufacturers offer the most complex designs with intricate designs - luxurious, chic. But here's the problem! It sometimes seems impossible to assemble this miracle of design thought - sometimes chandeliers are a pile of details.

Most often, instructions for this impromptu DIY kit are not included. Just a box with packaged chandelier elements. And you will have to spend time to turn these details into a real beauty, pride and shining decoration of the room.

Today you have to familiarize yourself with clear and detailed instructions on how to, so do not rush to call specialists. Believe me, the process of turning these details into a stylish piece of furniture will give you considerable pleasure - there is nothing more pleasant than doing something with your own hands.

In the store we see hundreds of models of chandeliers - they differ in the material of manufacture, designs, and the type of lamps used. Don't be scared! This does not mean that you have to explore all possible options. As a rule, in general, the features of the models do not particularly affect the installation process.

Once learned, , you can "bring to life" absolutely any model, regardless of the number of horns, device features and other characteristics.

As an example, this article will consider assembling a chandelier with three horns. The scheme is quite common.

Chandelier assembly - mechanical part

The first step is to open the box with the chandelier. If this is not done carefully, you can accidentally damage its elements. It is recommended to use a construction knife to remove the adhesive tape.

Factory products are usually supplied in blocks. Everything is folded separately: shades, horns, housing, terminal blocks and other details. The wires are already connected to the individual parts, you just need to connect them correctly to each other.

Those parts of the chandelier that are used last, it is better not to unpack, but put aside. We are talking about fragile shades, decorative elements and a remote control (not present in all products). Remove all other parts carefully from the packaging.

Next, you should assemble the upper part of the central body of the chandelier, so to speak, the “frame” on which the entire frame will be attached. We take a decorative "plate", install it on the chandelier rod and tighten the top nut.

This plate is designed to mask a hole under the ceiling for mounting a chandelier in a stretch ceiling, as well as to close the connection wires. The decorative plate itself (already together with the entire structure) will be attached to the ceiling using a mounting plate.

Assembling a chandelier with your own hands - fastening the horns

Now we come to the stage of attaching the horns. Depending on the type and design of fixtures, their number may be different. However, regardless of the number of chandelier horns, the mounting technology does not differ. Unscrew the decorative nut that secures the protective housing cover.

We take one of the horns, remove the nut and counter washer from it and insert it into the hole in the body. Then it is fixed with the same nut and washer. The first horn is fixed in the body of the chandelier.

Install the remaining horns in the same way. We do not touch the wires yet, we will carry them out last.

Before the final fixing of the horns, check the symmetry of their location relative to each other. Adjust their placement if necessary. Now that everything is beautiful, you need to tighten the fixing nuts with a wrench. Do not overdo it so as not to strip the thread.

Electrical part - how to connect wires in a chandelier

I think the main question how to assemble a chandelier with three arms closed. It's time to start the most crucial moment - the installation of electrical wiring. There are two connection options: to a single switch and to a double switch. The grouping of wires depends on the type of connection. In the first case there will be two, in the second there will be three. Separation of the cable is carried out by color.

I will connect the chandelier to a single-gang switch, so I will have two groups - phase and neutral wires.

If you have a double switch, then there will be three groups: all neutral wires - the first, the second group of phase wires to one key, the third group of phase wires to the second switch key.

Each output horn has two wires with different colored insulation. Their color can be any. I always break the wires by color in this way: blue wires are zero wires, brown wires are phase wires. First you should work with wires of the same color, for example, "phase", and then group wires of a different color - "zero".

Connecting wires in a chandelier under a single-gang switch

The easiest way is to connect the chandelier to a single switch. In this example, the phase and neutral wires are suitable for the chandelier, each horn also has two wires. We connect all brown (phase) wires of the horns to each other. Then we connect together all the blue (zero) wires of the horns. Thus, you have 2 groups of wires.

Having divided the wires into groups, they should also be connected to the main supply wire, this is the wire that is inserted into the rod. One end of it goes to the decorative cover and there it is connected to the wires that come out of the ceiling, the other end just goes into the body of the chandelier. Now we connect all the brown wires to one of the supply wires, and connect all the blue wires to the second of these wires.

Usually, the chandelier kit includes connecting caps. Release the ends of the wires from the insulation in a section 1-2 cm long, twist them together, and then screw the connector onto them with rotating movements. Now it reliably protects the junction.

For reliability, the place of twisting of wires can be soldered.

When the wires are laid, you can put the cover on the lamp body and fix it with a decorative nut.

How to connect wires in a chandelier when connecting it to a two-gang switch

The first step of connecting to a double switch is dividing the horns of the chandelier into two groups. The easiest way is to connect an even number of bulbs. In this case, divide them into two groups: odd - the first, even - the second. Naturally, the neutral wires will be included in the third group. With this connection, complete symmetry and harmony will be achieved.

It will be somewhat more difficult when assembling a chandelier with an odd number of horns. In this case, it will no longer be possible to implement it symmetrically. Therefore, in one group there will be more bulbs, in the other - less.

If, for example, you have a five-horn chandelier, how to assemble a chandelier and connect her to a two-gang switch? Well, firstly, it will not work here to symmetrically split the wires into groups.

Here you will have to connect the wires in such a way that one button turns on, for example, 3 ceiling lights, the second - 2 ceiling lights. And if you turn on both switches at the same time, all the lamps will light up. Options may vary.

Now it's time to get down to business: the "zero" wires will be included in the first group, and the phase wires are divided into two blocks, one is connected to 1, 3 and 5 horns, and the second to 2 and 4.

As in the version using a single switch, it is now required to connect each group to a power wire (the wire that is located in the chandelier rod).

Then we do everything, as in the case of a single-gang switch, we connect all these groups to the main power cable. But there is one difference: this power wire that enters the body of the chandelier should not be two-core, but three-core. All blue (neutral) wires are connected to one core, group 1 wires are connected to the second core, group 2 wires are connected to the third.

Now it remains only to complete the assembly of the lamp. Carefully place the wires into the housing and secure the bottom cover with a decorative nut. Plafonds and decorative elements are installed after connecting the chandelier.

Of course, the assembly of the chandelier may vary slightly, but in general, the process occurs exactly as described above.

Many of us during the repair decide to change not only the decoration of the room, but also the lamps, and in this regard, the question often arises: how to properly assemble the chandelier?

Many of us during the repair decide to change not only the decoration of the room, but also the lamps, and in this regard, the question often arises: how to properly assemble the chandelier? In most cases, this is a simple process that does not require calling in specialists, but still, we believe that detailed instructions for assembling a chandelier never hurt.

So, let's try to cover the whole process in detail. Consider the classic chandelier assembly scheme using the example of an inexpensive Chinese-made two-arm lamp. And we note that using this instruction, you can easily assemble and hang a chandelier of a more complex design, however, if you have absolutely no experience in electrical work, and we are talking about expensive equipment, it is better to entrust this to specialists.

The question of how to assemble a chandelier, let's start with a list of necessary tools:

wire stripping knife (construction),
multimeter or electric screwdriver
several ordinary screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of bits,
wrench.

If you need to assemble and hang the chandelier on a concrete or reinforced concrete ceiling, you will also need a drill and a drill bit with a pobedite tip (diameter 6mm) to mount the mounting plate. Installation on suspended plasterboard ceilings can be carried out using self-tapping screws or a special butterfly dowel.

Chandelier Assembly Scheme

1. Unpack the new lamp and lay out all its parts on the table. Make sure you have everything you need to assemble and hang your chandelier.

Be sure to read the instructions! Remember, your particular lamp may have its own characteristics that you need to know about. Separately, it is worth noting that the Russian-language instructions on how to assemble a chandelier in some way prove the quality of the goods.

2. Remove the central body and all other parts from the transparent packaging, except for the shades. Fragile glass shades are best left in the package until the chandelier is assembled - this way they will be more intact.

3. Now we will fix the horns. First, unscrew the nut and remove the protective cover from the central body of the chandelier. Then insert the horn into the appropriate hole, install the washer and tighten the nut. The same must be done with the second horn.

5. With a wrench, tighten the fasteners until they stop, but make sure that the horns do not move at this time. During the entire assembly process of the chandelier, check the correct installation of each part before tightening the fixing nut to the end.

6. Now we will deal with the electrical wiring.
This is the most important step in the chandelier assembly instructions. Let's say our lamp has 4 lampshades fixed on two horns. If you want to connect it to a switch with one toggle switch / button, you can divide the wires into 2 groups: 4 blue, 4 brown.

And if your chandelier assembly scheme involves a double switch, the wires are divided into three groups:

1 blue wire + 3 blue wires + 4 brown wires - when toggle switch 1 is turned on, one lampshade will light up, when toggle switch 2 is turned on, three lampshades will light up, and when both toggle switches are turned on, all four lampshades will light up.
2 blue wires + 2 blue wires + 4 brown wires - each toggle switch will light 2 lights, and if you turn on both toggle switches at the same time, all four lights will light up.

But remember, our instructions for assembling a chandelier cannot cover all cases - it is possible that your lamp will have wires of other colors.

7. Strip the first group of wires from insulation (1-2 cm), twist them together, and then connect to one of the central wires using a connector. If there are no connectors in the kit, before assembling the chandelier, purchase them at any hardware store.

8. Connect the second group to the other center wire in the same way, and then do the same with the third (if you will use a double switch). All wiring components during the assembly of the chandelier are carried out using connectors.