Hoya liana care at home, propagation by cuttings, photos of species and names of varieties. Secrets of propagating hoya at home

Hoya is a magnificent vine that can often be seen in houses and apartments. Its wonderful flowering attracts the attention of many. The name of the plant is due to the gardener Thomas Hoy. The article will talk specifically about such a plant as hoya, in particular about reproduction.

General information

Hoya is a very flat plant that requires careful care at home. Without timely garter or support, it will be difficult for him to develop. External characteristics:

• The shoots are thin, stretching downwards.
• The leaves have a rich green color, varied shapes, and dense structure.
• The color range of inflorescences is wide, from white to colored. Each flower looks like a small star, inside of which there is a small crown of a different color.
• Has a wonderful aroma.

Once the plant begins to bloom, it should not be moved or moved, otherwise the color will fall off. With proper care, flowering will be abundant and long throughout the warm period. Faded inflorescences are not removed; over time, new ones form on them.

There are many types of hoya in nature, about 200. Let's look at the most popular:

• Meaty. Many call it wax ivy. Growing at home it can reach 2 meters. The leaves are quite massive and large, with a waxy sheen. It may have a cream or red tint, with a yellow border around the edges. The color palette of the inflorescences is white and light cream, with a pink crown inside. They smell fragrant.
• Beautiful (beautiful). A small shrub, with gentle branches 30-580 centimeters long. The leaves are small and fleshy. There are quite a lot of inflorescences, all small, white, with a crimson crown inside.
• Multi-flowered. The plant climbs very beautifully, the leaves are oblong, dark green. The inflorescences are white-yellowish in color, with many small flowers inside. The aroma is pleasant, reminiscent of lemon.
• Majestic. A small shrub with climbing shoots. The leaves are oblong and dense. The inflorescences are dark red, with an asterisk inside. The flowers are yellowish on the outside. They smell fragrant.

Reproduction methods

Cuttings

There is more than one way to propagate a plant at home. The simplest one is cuttings. For successful rooting it is very important to create the right conditions. To make the cuttings take root faster, use simple rules:

• The root should be cut with a sterile and sharp object.
• It is better to cut short cuttings that have 1-2 leaves.
• There must be several nodes on the cutting; it is on them that roots or leaves will form. Root hormones are inherent in the nodes.
• The tip of a long cutting may dry out due to lack of moisture.

Cuttings can be rooted in several ways:

1. By water:

• The pot is filled with water and wrapped in foil to block light (to prevent the development of green algae). The petioles will be in a vertical state, inserted through the foil.
• The leaves on several nodes are removed, after which one of them should definitely be covered with water.
• Before lowering into water, the sections are dipped in root hormone.
• The pot is left in a warm, humid environment.
• The temperature should be about 22°C, both air and water.
• Wilting of cuttings indicates insufficient air humidity. You can correct the situation by covering the cutting with foil. A greenhouse with the necessary climate is created.
• In just half a month, your cuttings will be covered with roots.

The plant is transplanted into a pot when the root system is just beginning to develop. Longer roots become too fragile and break easily when separated.

This method is quite painstaking. Many people resort to a simplified version. Place the cuttings in an ordinary dark vessel (for example, a vase). Move it to a warm place and spray it often. As the water evaporates, add more. Roots appear successfully under such conditions.

1. Solid substrates. In this method, it is very important to choose the right substrate. It must retain moisture well. Also, too raw will not work. Loose soil is suitable for hoya so that all excess water is not absorbed, but drains. Buy a high-quality and pure substrate from a specialized store. Before planting, the pot should be disinfected.

There should be inherent moisture around the plant. This is achieved by creating a greenhouse and frequent spraying. Several plants in one room can significantly increase the humidity.

Tips for replanting hoya:

• Do not use long cuttings.
• If possible, it is worth planting several cuttings in one pot.
• Small hoya cuttings are planted in a pot horizontally, or at an angle. It is imperative that several nodules are covered with soil. You can bury 10 knots.
• For planting in a hard substrate, use strong and healthy petioles.
• Stick to a temperature of 22°C, in which case growth will be active.
• High air humidity and constant spraying are important.
• Placing pots next to each other will increase humidity.
• For large species of hoya, one node with a leaf is placed in the ground.

Be careful to plant cuttings correctly. Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish the cut end from the growing one. If the growing end gets into the ground, it dies.

If the stem is green, or at least one leaf is on it, rooting has a chance of success. You should not despair, do not throw away the sprout, give it the opportunity to sprout.

When the cutting is constantly twisted and examined, it is unlikely to survive.

After 14-20 days, the first roots and signs of development may appear. But this is only if all the rules have been followed and the plant is shrouded in care.

Basically, hoyas initially form a shoot, so that in the future there will be a good vine, it should be tied up. The tip of the resulting lash refuses to grow down - the plant stops growing. This phenomenon is absolutely natural, but it applies to hoya ampelous.

When a florist orders cuttings via mail, they arrive in a dry state. Then they are placed in warm water with added sugar and allowed to sit for a couple of hours. With proper transfer, the cuttings remain moist, and the chances of successful rooting are quite high.

Leaf

Sometimes they try to grow hoya from a single leaf. In fact, the chances of finding a new plant are not so many, but the method has a chance to exist. In any case, you will have to use powder to form roots.

To propagate a plant in this way, you should make every effort. The leaf is planted in light soil; it takes root quite quickly, but unfortunately does not grow into an adult flower.

Many scientists in the field of botany have proven that it is much easier to grow a plant if the leaf was taken from nature, the places where hoya grows. In such conditions, it receives much more useful components and can withstand weather conditions more easily. Almost all leaves taken from nature successfully become beautiful and healthy plants.

Tips you should listen to if you want to grow hoya from a single leaf:

• To stimulate growth cells in hoya leaves, it is worth resorting to chemicals.
• When using products, it is better to take a pipette. It is much more convenient to drop it into the center of the leaf so that the liquid flows evenly down.
• A leaf that has at least a tiny petiole has a much better chance of growing into a full-fledged plant.
• The leaf is planted only in loose soil, always at an angle of 45 degrees.

Seeds

Another way to propagate hoya is by planting seeds. Fresh seeds are brought to full maturity by lightly drying. The soil for planting should absorb moisture well. For these purposes, the following is sometimes added to the ground:

• Felt.
• Burlap.
• Other artificial fabrics.

Seeds are planted quickly enough, within a year after collection. Otherwise, it will be difficult to wait for growth. over a longer period they will lose the ability to germinate.

Initially, the seeds are brown in color. After planting, they turn green, and after 7 days the first sprouts hatch. A short stem with several leaves appears. This period is considered the most difficult. The rules of care must be clear:

• Drying out the soil is contraindicated.
• Due to the large amount of moisture, putrefactive processes may begin and the sprouts will wither.
• To avoid the above problems, spraying with fungicides is highly recommended. Oil-based products should not be used. Observe the dosage strictly.
• Seedlings should be protected from snails and slugs, which will attack especially at night.
• At the initial stages of growth, fertilizers are not used; there is a huge risk that the seedlings will burn.
• It is important to choose the right substrate, then fertilizers will not be needed, good soil already contains all the necessary components.

The young plant is kept warm, with acceptable humidity and good lighting.

According to numerous reviews from gardeners who grow Hoya at home, it follows that the seeds germinate well in sphagnum balls wrapped in a nylon mesh. Moistened moss holds its shape remarkably well. Small seeds simply need to peck through the mesh. The sprouts can be transplanted along with the ball to a permanent place of growth. In this case, the delicate roots will not be damaged.

The sprouts remain in the sowing bowl for quite a long time, about 3 months, while they are considered to be young plants. To transplant them into a pot, they must gain strength, get stronger, and sprout at least a few leaves. It is not uncommon for the sprouts in the seed bed to be quite different from each other (in size, structure). Only strong and fully formed ones are replanted; the rest are given time to grow. Those that remain flimsy and weak are simply discarded.

A bowl may contain a plant that is not similar to itself, with various mutations. Give this growth a chance to fully grow and you may end up with a new and beautiful looking Hoya. This situation is rare, but does occur. Almost 80% of the seeds become a full-fledged strong plant. If this does not happen, there are several main reasons:

• Old and non-viable seeds were planted.
• Young roots have rotted due to active watering.

At home, hoya does not throw out seed pods, so it is impossible to grow a flower from seeds at home. Finding them on sale is also quite difficult, especially in a flower shop. Maximum via the Internet, but no one guarantees quality. Therefore, the main method of propagating hoya is cuttings.

Difficulties you may encounter when growing hoya

If you decide to acquire a plant such as hoya at home, be prepared for the following difficulties:

• Spots appeared on the leaves. This occurs with a lack or excessive amount of light, frequent fertilizers, or the application of fertilizers in large quantities. Stains can also occur from watering with cold water.
• No flowers. The plant may lack nutrients in the soil, or there may not be enough light. Another reason is wintering in a warm environment. Hoya may not bloom for several years if the flower stalks have been cut off.
• The leaf of the plant dries out and curls, becoming lighter. Occurs due to a decrease in temperature or direct exposure to the sun's rays.
• The leaves are falling. The air is too dry.
• Buds appear, but before they have time to bloom, they fall off. The indoor air is too dry and there is not enough moisture (or too much).
• Leaves and shoots are falling. The plant was watered with cold water, or moisture stagnation occurred.
• Putrefactive processes of the root system or stem. Too much moisture.
• Flowers are falling. There is little light, the plant was often rearranged.
• The plant grows slowly, the leaves change color. There is not enough nitrogen in the soil.

Plants may be susceptible to pests and diseases. If you do not provide the hoya with decent care, she may suffer the following troubles:

• Spider mite. Appears when the room with the flower is too hot and dry. Recognized by the presence of brown or whitish spots on the leaves. Over time, they turn yellow, dry out and crumble. The plant stops developing. In this case, increase the humidity and treat the flower with the necessary preparation.
• Shield. Hoya loses its attractive and healthy appearance, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. A fungus appears. At the initial stage, the plant can be treated with soap or alcohol water. In advanced cases, it is taken out into the fresh air and treated with karbofos.
• Powdery mildew. It is visible on the leaves in the form of a whitish coating. With severe damage, plaque covers the stems and buds. To correct the situation, provide good ventilation in the room and humidify the air.

You can deal with sucking pests at home using regular garlic and onion infusions. You need to take a teaspoon of chopped onion and 1-2 teaspoons of garlic. Fill with water and leave covered for 24 hours. Treat the plant with tincture.

How to grow hoya from seeds? Hoya seeds- a very rare item (see photo on the right).

The fact is that this plant very rarely forms seed pods, and people who decide to breed Hoya often do this using cuttings.

In addition, the seeds germinate only in the year they are collected, that is, they quickly lose their ability to germinate.

If you are lucky enough to become the owner of seeds, you need be very attentive and careful about the process. The soil for sowing should be well permeable; it will be useful to add chopped sphagnum moss to it. The container with seeds should be kept in a well-lit place.

In good conditions they germinate very quickly, within a week.

At this time, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the soil; lack and excess of moisture can destroy the plant at the initial stage.

The use of fertilizers is not recommended, they not only will not bring much benefit, but will also greatly harm the hoya. After the young plants have survived their first 3 months in the same pot, they need to be transplanted into separate pots.

In this case, you need to evaluate the condition of the hoi; they should have stronger roots and several pairs of leaves. If they look weak, you need to keep them in the original container a little longer. It often happens that seedlings do not develop further and remain weak.

Hoya plant care

How to care for a Hoya flower (wax ivy)? Caring for Hoya at home there are many things to consider, which contribute to the health and beautiful appearance of the plant.

Lighting- an important factor for flowering and growth. When considering the location of the plant, you need to take into account that it loves sunlight. With enough of it, the vine can bloom already in the first year after planting, but if there is a deficiency, you may never see flowers.

The placement location must be selected based on the location of the windows. If the windows in the room are on the north side, little light penetrates, so hoya can only be placed there on or near the window sills. Otherwise, the plant will receive too little light. Hoya grows best on eastern windows.

Once the location has been determined, the plant should no longer be moved, as it reacts very sharply to changes in lighting.

In summer, when direct sunlight can burn the leaves, you need to slightly shade the hoya.

Temperature Hoya loves the middle one. Even when it’s frosty outside, the room should not be colder than 12-16 degrees. The plant tolerates heat, but this is in any case undesirable. The best temperature for it is 22 - 25 degrees and regular ventilation. Stagnant air negatively affects hoya.

Humidity not very important for the growth of hoya; it adapts well to the dry air of the apartment. One advantage of high air humidity is that hoya tolerates high temperatures better.

Watering Hoya requires regular planting, especially in the hot season. In summer and spring, watering should be done as soon as the top layer dries. The rest of the time it is enough to maintain low soil moisture. In winter, the plant does not need water as much, so you can slightly reduce the usual frequency of watering.

Hoya does not require spraying, but the dust settling on the leaves has a bad effect on the well-being of the plant. It should be regularly wiped with a damp soft sponge, or the plant should be watered from the shower. In the case of a shower, you need to protect the soil from excess water.

Top dressing Plants are needed only in spring and summer. Once every two to three weeks, Hoya needs to be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers, I alternate with organic ones. For good and rapid growth, the plant can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers.

The soil for hoya should consist not only of purchased soil.

The composition of the components that are used in preparing the land for hoya:

• soil for succulents;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• crushed sphagnum moss;
• boiled pine bark;
• coconut substrate;
• charcoal.

The smaller the pot in which Hoya is grown, the finer the structure of the soil should be.

Rest period very important for Hoya. It is at this time that flower buds form. This period occurs in winter, when daylight hours decrease and the air temperature rises. If you keep Hoya in too warm conditions in winter and artificially extend daylight hours, this can have a bad effect on flowering.

Trimming. There is no particular need for pruning, especially if the plant successfully climbs along the required support. It is necessary to carefully remove dried leaves and shoots.

However, if you want to make the plant look better, you can prune it or pinch out shoots to encourage new growth.

When pruning, you should never remove old flower stalks. In their place, the next time the hoya forms new flowers. You need to pay attention to this so that the plant continues to delight you with abundant flowering.

When pruning, you need to be careful with young shoots; they do not like to be touched and, if not handled carefully, can dry out after some time.

Transfer

Young plants replant in the spring and do this once a year. However, this must be done before the plant begins to bloom, otherwise it can greatly harm it.

If the pot you transplant your hoya into is too large, it will not bloom. Each time, a new pot is needed for replanting, in which nothing has grown before. You need to replant carefully so as not to severely damage the roots.

Mature plants replanted every 3-4 years.

Reproduction

In addition to growing from seeds, Hoya can be propagated by cuttings or individual leaves (see photo below).

How to propagate and replant hoya from cuttings? Propagation by cuttings- the simplest and most effective way to propagate hoya.

What is the best way to root Hoya? For cuttings, you need to take a shoot with two pairs of leaves or more; they form new shoots better and take root.

However, the cutting should not be long; if necessary, it should be trimmed, leaving a few centimeters under the node. This is where roots form best.

A cutting that is too young may die when trying to propagate, rot, or simply fail. Therefore, shoots should not be taken from the top, but already mature ones. Too old and woody ones will also not give the desired result.

To propagate hoya using a leaf, you need a lot of luck. Very rarely the leaf produces new shoots; most often it remains in the ground for a long time, sprouting only a few roots.

If you take a leaf of hoya that grows in natural conditions, you are more likely to get results, because it is much stronger than homemade one.

To stimulate the growth of shoots on a rooted leaf, you need to use any hormonal drug, adding it drop by drop to the base of the leaf.

Pests and diseases

Hoya is susceptible many diseases, infections, pests and damage due to improper maintenance. Some of the diseases can cause irreparable harm, some simply spoil the appearance, but all of them must be gotten rid of in time.

Diseases affecting Hoya:

1. If the shoots suddenly dry out, the leaves darken, red spots appear on them, the centers of the leaves soften, you are dealing with a bacterial disease. To protect the plant, you need to try not to damage the surface of the leaves. To get rid of the disease, treat Hoya with a copper-based preparation.
2. With fungal diseases, the plant suddenly stops growing, the leaves turn yellow and become covered with spots similar to powdery mildew. To eliminate these symptoms, you need to transplant the plant into a pot with fresh soil and carefully monitor watering, use preparations containing benamyl or thiram.

Pests:

Sunmite and Apollo are very effective against ticks.

Against scale insects, use the drug Aktara and Actofit.

The drugs Aktara, Mospilan, Condifor-maxi work against it.

1. Spider mite lives under the leaves, on their reverse side, which we usually do not see. The leaves fall off from the influence of this pest, and a cobweb forms between the stem and leaf. The tick is afraid of water, so in dry and hot times the hoya must be sprayed for protection.
2. Shchitovka. For protection, scale insect larvae are covered with a waxy coating; under this cover they suck out the juice from the leaves, depriving the plant of its strength. This could lead to his death in the future. It is very easy to notice; the hoya suddenly begins to lose color.
3. Chervets- a small insect that also damages leaves and slows down the growth of young shoots.

Possible problems

Some problems are the most common for Hoyas:

1. If a plant suddenly the leaves began to wrinkle, this indicates first of all that it was overcooled. Either the water for irrigation was too cold and in large quantities, or there were already problems with the root system. Perhaps the plant simply lacks nutrients and is weakening. In this case, you need to carefully care for the plant and feed it.
2. Why Hoya doesn't bloom at home? What to do? How to make it bloom? This is most likely caused by a lack of light. First you need to try moving the hoya to a sunnier place. Lack of a dormant period can also cause poor flowering. If the plant was blooming before, remember if you accidentally removed the old flower stalks, because new flowers grow from them.
3. If the hoya leaves turn yellow, this can mean not only problems with care, but also various diseases. Yellowing of the leaves is caused by fungal diseases, scale insects or scale insects. It can also be caused by a lack of light and nutrients.

Hoya - beautiful and amazing plant, requiring attention to your person. With proper care, it will become the best decoration and will delight the eye with bright blooms.

The easiest way to propagate hoyas is from cuttings. At a comfortable temperature and high humidity, they take root without problems. This is the simplest and most common type of reproduction. A few tips to ensure that the cutting produces roots as quickly as possible: you should cut as short a section as possible with one or two pairs of leaves. In this case, you need to pay attention that the cutting has at least two nodes. At the nodes, roots will form in the future or leaves will form, since root hormones are concentrated in the nodes. Long cuttings can dry out at the ends, since such cuttings do not have enough moisture and evaporation is high.

There are several ways to root cuttings.

Rooting in water

The book “Hoya Basics” describes the following method. The wide pot is wrapped in aluminum foil, which blocks the water from light (green algae does not develop) and keeps the cuttings in an upright position. The leaves on one or two nodes of the cuttings are removed, since at least one node without leaves must be under water. The cuttings are placed in water through a small hole in the aluminum wrapper. Before doing this, it is advisable to dip their sections in the root hormone. The vessel should be placed in a warm, damp place. The temperature of water and air around the plants should not exceed 22*C. If the air humidity is high, the temperature can also be maintained higher. If the cuttings wither, this means that the air humidity is insufficient. In this case, you should loosely cover the cuttings along with aluminum wraps. This creates a small greenhouse with a tropical microclimate. Under such conditions, a mass of small white roots will soon form on the cuttings. This usually happens after 14 days.

It should be noted: when the roots on the cuttings grow too long, they become quite fragile and easily break off when the cuttings are separated from each other. Therefore, it is advisable to plant plants in a permanent place at an early stage of root formation.
The method described above requires some effort.

I simply place my cuttings in a dark vase or other opaque vessel. I top up the evaporating water and spray the cuttings daily. The vase stands in a warm sunny place. Roots form without problems.

Rooting in hard substrates

Cuttings can also be immediately planted in loose stone mixture, sphagnum, porous flower soil or other moisture-retaining substrates. The most important thing here is that the substrate is of medium humidity, but not too damp. The soil must have such a structure that any excess water can drain out immediately. It is also important that the substrate and rooting vessel are sterile! Rooting powder greatly speeds up the appearance of roots. There should always be one leaf node in the substrate. Evaporation of moisture must be prevented in some way. To do this, you can again use a foil bag or regularly spray the leaves. Several hoyas together in a small room, due to their “breathing,” significantly increase the humidity of the air.

Here are some useful tips:

1. cuttings should be short.
2. If possible, it is better to plant several cuttings of the same species in a pot.
3. cuttings of small Hoi species should be planted in the substrate horizontally or at an angle. One or two nodes should be covered with soil.
4. use only fresh, healthy cuttings for rooting in hard substrates.
5. the temperature should not fall below 22*C. Then rooting occurs faster.
6. Maintain high air humidity (spray regularly).
7. Place pots next to each other, which significantly increases air humidity.
8. in small species, 4, 5 or even 9 nodes can be buried in the substrate. For large hoi, one node with leaves should be pressed into the soil.
9. it is important to know which end of the cutting is the growing one and which is the cut end, which is not always clear. If the growing end is planted in the ground, the cutting will die.

As long as at least one leaf or one stem, even without leaves, is green, there is a chance of successful rooting. Don’t lose hope and, especially, don’t throw away the plant prematurely! Constantly looking at and inevitably turning the cuttings can also lead to “sad” consequences. If the pot with cuttings is placed in a bright and protected place, then after 2 - 3 weeks signs of new growth should appear. Some hoyas first form a long shoot, which should be carefully tied up if you want to grow a beautiful climbing plant. The tip of their new lash never wants to “voluntarily” grow down and growth stops. This, naturally, does not apply to hanging hoyas.

Cuttings that arrived from afar (by mail, etc.) are usually overdried. They should be kept in warm water for several hours, to which a little sugar should be added. If the cuttings were properly packaged during shipment and retained natural moisture in the leaves and stems, then the chances of rooting are much higher.

Hoi propagation from a single leaf

Sometimes you have to grow hoya from a single leaf. It takes a lot of luck to get a new plant out of it. You can’t do without rooting powder here.
In 1856, Dr. Atillo Tassi, professor of botany and agriculture, director of the Royal Botanical Garden of the Royal Academy of Lucca, managed to grow the plant from seeds that he discovered in a bag containing a single pod of Hoya carnosa, which had ripened 20 years earlier. In his report, he talks about methods of propagation of Khoi: he describes the method of propagation by cuttings and also mentions propagation by a single soil leaf. Many botanists have conducted such experiments in the past. The leaf was planted in the mixture. Roots usually appeared without problems and the leaf did not die. But it never grew into an adult plant. Many Khoi collectors later tried this method with the same result.

Several years ago, Dale Kloppenburg received ten beautiful hoi leaves and flowers from Chanin Thorut, collected during an expedition in Southern Thailand. Kloppenburg measured and photographed them, then planted each leaf in a separate dark green plastic pot filled with loose soil mixture and placed it in a greenhouse. He buried the bases of the leaves into the substrate at an angle of 45*. In favorable conditions, roots appeared quickly. In the following months, these eight leaves sprouted and have grown into beautiful, strong, healthy plants today. Kloppenburg later received some exotic leaves and flowers from Ted Green of Kaaawa (Hawaii). These are the leaves of H. finlaysonii and H. verticillata. He also wants to grow them into adult plants.

Kloppenburg claims that plants collected from nature sprout more readily than those grown in culture. He explains this by saying that the important factor here is the vitality of the plants, which they received from the intensity and exposure to sunlight and from the proper nutrition that the plants had in nature.

Here some tips to successfully achieve the emergence of a sprout from a single leaf.

Essentially, the petioles at the base of the leaves produce masses of roots. The art is to stimulate the leaves to produce growth cells and develop shoots. You can try to “excite” the leaves with chemical stimulants, such hormones as adenine sulfate [one of the three nitrogenous bases of DNA, which is found in all living cells], kinetin [a hormone from plant cells that regulates their division and brings dormant buds out of dormancy] 2- 4D [?] or gibberellic acid [a growth-forming substance, one of the most active gibberellins]. By the way, 2-4D is, in fact, a weed killer. But in a very weak concentration (one drop per 4 liters of water) it stimulates root formation. Dale Kloppenburg used an eye dropper for his experiments. He dripped the solution onto the center of the leaf above the cutting and it flowed down to the place where the roots formed.

Experiments with gibberellic acid showed weak, depleted growth. Kloppenburg carried out additional experiments with indolyl 3-acetic acid [this is the abstruse name for heteroauxin]. He diluted one small crystal in a glass of water and, after roots appeared from the leaf, applied the solution to the base and cuttings. Experiments were carried out only on strong leaves. H. carnosa, H. verticillata, H. kerrii, H. diversifolia and H. finlaysonii successfully sprouted. Dale Kloppenburg in his book “Hoya Basics” writes that the process of propagating hoya from a leaf is possible, but requires additional research.

For three years now, I have had 2 rooted leaves of H. kerrii in my collection, which I bought at a flower shop for Valentine’s Day. Over the first two years, the leaves became about 1 cm thick, but they never produced any shoots or new leaves. One hoi collector I know gave me the advice to replant the leaves and carefully examine the root system. While replanting store-bought rooted H. kerrii leaves, he noticed that their roots were compressed into a hard piece of wood. I followed his advice and was amazed! Both leaves of H. kerrii were sticking out of the pieces of wood. The roots were so powerful that they had already partially destroyed the wood. I removed it and planted the leaves in Hoi substrate from Haage. After this, both leaves became noticeably stronger and healthier. But they still remained “only” leaves. On one English forum for gardeners, I read that there is a high probability of growing a plant from a leaf if such a leaf has a piece of petiole. All the same, even under these circumstances, hoyas are reluctant to give new growth. I think they only tend to germinate when they have enough leaves and don't want to grow in unacceptable conditions.

Growing hoi from seeds

Having a seed pod, you can propagate hoyas in the most natural way. Fresh seeds must ripen, for which they need to be slightly dried. For sowing, a well-permeable substrate is used. It’s good, for example, to add chopped sphagnum to the earth mixture. You can also mix artificial materials into the soil, such as felt, burlap or other fabrics, or use them directly as a substrate. Hoi seeds very quickly lose their ability to germinate, so they should always be sown fresh, in the year of collection.

Seeds germinate quickly, often within the first week. From brown they turn green and soon sprout. First, two cotyledon leaves are formed on a short stem. From now on, the young seedlings are exposed to all sorts of dangers. They should never dry out. From excessive dampness they rot and fall. Therefore, it is advisable at this time to spray the seedlings with some fungicide, for example, Bordeaux mixture (oil-based solutions cannot be used) or other substances containing copper. Follow the dosage strictly! The lives of seedlings can also be threatened by snails and slugs if they climb into the seeding bowl at night. Seedlings should be kept moist and warm with good lighting. Fertilizers should not be used at first. In the collections, many cuttings and seedlings burned due to fertilizers! The substrate in which the roots develop well has all the necessary nutrients.

It is very convenient to use small sphagnum balls wrapped in a nylon mesh for germinating seeds. Wet moss holds its shape. Small seeds easily germinate through the mesh. Young plants are planted in pots directly with these balls. This way the fragile roots do not break off.

About 90 days from the moment of germination, seedlings are considered young plants and are kept in a sowing bowl. For the first transplant into an “adult” pot, they must have strong roots and several pairs of leaves. Often they differ in size and strength even in the seeding bowl. Only healthy ones should be transplanted into separate pots. Let the “lagging behind” grow up in a bowl for some more time. Some remain weak forever and must be discarded. Particular attention should be paid to mutants or seedlings of unusual appearance. Perhaps a new interesting form of this species will grow from them [this happens among cacti, although quite rarely]. The chances of growing a young plant from seeds are about 80%. If this fails, in most cases it is because “old” (not capable of germinating) seeds were sown or the roots of the seedlings have rotted due to excessive moisture.

It is impossible to find hoi seeds in Germany [even more so here]. All Hoi sellers grow their plants from cuttings. This is not due to the reluctance of traders, but to the difficulties of fruit formation in Khoi. Hoyas in cultivation very rarely form seed pods. Most Hoi lovers, like me, keep their plants indoors and never see seed pods on them.

Prepared for publication by Svetlana Shavelina

Hoya is a liana reaching a length of 10 m and belongs to the Lastovnevye family. Gardener Hoy was the first to master the plant in Europe, and it was in his honor that the name of the vine was given. It is also called wax ivy.

The twisting stems have aerial roots. When young, the stem is flexible and becomes woody over time, so give it the desired direction from the very beginning. Use special stands. The leaves are fleshy and shiny.

The plant blooms beautifully with fragrant flowers. The star-shaped corollas are collected into spherical inflorescences. Color can be white, cream, pink. The texture of the petals can be like fur. Even at home it blooms profusely and for a long time. During flowering, the plant should not be moved to another place or rotated under any circumstances - the buds will be shed and flowering will not occur this year.

Allergic reactions to flower pollen are possible.

Hoya plant care

Choosing a location and lighting

The plant is shade-tolerant, but will bloom only in bright, diffused light. The best place would be western or eastern window sills. For winter, if desired, move to a south window. When placed on a north window, additional lighting will be required.

Air temperature

The plant tolerates room temperature normally, but feels best at an air temperature of about 18 °C. In summer, take it out into the fresh air, protecting it from direct sunlight. To get beautiful flowering in the November-February period, keep it at a temperature of 15-17 °C.

Watering

Water moderately in summer, sparingly in winter, especially if wintering occurs in cool weather. Spray the plant regularly and wipe the leaves with a damp sponge. Twice a year, take a warm bath with full immersion for 30-40 minutes. Then dry the plant and return it to its place of growth.

Feeding

During the period March-September it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers every 3 weeks. The mixture should be the following concentration: phosphorus - 11%, nitrogen - 10%, magnesium - 2%, potassium - 18%.

Trimming

Even after flowering, flower shoots (those on which flowers appeared) should never be cut off. Next year, flower stalks will appear on the same shoots, and if they are cut off, you will have to wait a very long time for a new flowering.

Trim the remaining shoots as a last resort - it is better to wrap them around a support, remove only shoots that are too long.

Transfer

Young plants should be replanted annually, adults - once every 2-3 years. It is best to do this in early spring. Transfer it together with the earthen lump into a container of slightly larger diameter. Suitable soil for succulents. You can prepare an earth mixture from 2 parts of nutritious soil with the addition of peat, expanded clay, and perlite. Will grow hydroponically.

Diseases, pests, other difficulties in caring for Hoya

Powdery mildew affects the plant due to waterlogging of the soil. It is necessary to stop watering, treat with a fungicide, then restore watering and adjust it.

Scale insects are possible pests of hoya. You should moisten a cotton pad with soapy water, remove pests mechanically and treat with an insecticide.

Problems when growing hoya at home:

• If you disturb the plant during flowering (change position, open a window, make a sudden temperature change), the buds will fall off.
• The reasons for the appearance of spots on the leaves can be: poor lighting, direct sunlight, excess fertilizer, watering with cold water.
• The plant does not bloom if the lighting is poor, the soil is depleted, or the wintering took place in a warm place.
• Very dry air causes leaves to fall off.
• When exposed to direct sunlight or low air temperatures, the leaves curl and dry out.
• The plant may drop flower buds if it is not watered correctly or if the air temperature is very high.
• If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the leaves turn pale and growth rates slow down.

Why doesn't hoya bloom?

There are several reasons:

• Flower vines have been trimmed
• Wintering in a warm room without creating dormant conditions (needs coolness and rare watering)
• Excess nutrients (frequent feeding)

Hoya propagation by cuttings

- the most common method of propagating hoya.

• In spring or autumn, cut cuttings from last year's shoots. They must contain at least 2 pairs of leaves.
• Make the cut a few centimeters below the leaf node.
• Keep the cuttings in the root solution for 24 hours to stimulate root formation.

• Rooting can occur in water, sand, or a universal substrate.
• It is necessary to ensure the air temperature is 20 °C and maintain high humidity. This can be done by covering the cutting with a transparent bag or bottle.

• The rooting process will take about 1 month.
• Then plant 2-3 plants in one pot.
• To stimulate flowering, pinch the tips of the shoots.

• Flowering will occur approximately in the 4th year.

Be patient: let the young plants develop a powerful root system that will completely encircle the cup. Then it will be possible to easily remove the plant along with the undisturbed earthen lump and transfer it to a permanent pot.

Reproduction by stem layering

Stem layering allows you to get flowering in the same year.

• Make a small cut in the internode of the shoot, wrap it in damp moss, secure with foil, tape or twine.
• The moss must be constantly moist. Over time, roots will appear at the incision site.
• Separate the cuttings from the mother plant when young shoots appear and plant them separately.

Types and varieties of Hoya with photos and names

Hoya Kerri Hoya Kerrii

The shoots reach a length of about 2 m. The leaves are large, leathery, in the shape of an inverted heart. They are 15 cm long and wide, painted bright green. Umbrella inflorescences consist of numerous white flowers with a dark center. The liana grows slowly and remains flexible. There is a form with cream-colored leaves.

Hoya fleshy Hoya carnosa

Liana up to 1 m long. The fleshy leaves are dark green, shiny, oblong in shape, with a pointed tip. The evergreen plant forms a dense bush. Umbrella inflorescences are located on short stalks. They consist of small star-shaped flowers. The center is a red crown, the petals are white.

Hoya beautiful Hoya bella

Dwarf plant. The oval-shaped leaves are extended by 3 cm, the tops are pointed. Numerous flowers have a crimson hue.

Hoya majestic Hoya imperialis

Curly with large leaves reaching a length of 20 cm. The base of the leaf blade is rounded, the tops are pointed. Umbrella inflorescences consist of pink-red flowers, the crown is pubescent.

Hoya multiflora Hoya multiflora

A compact plant with leaves about 14 cm long. They are thin, the veins stand out. The flowers are yellow-white, the outer part is slightly bent, collected in an inflorescence of 40 pieces. It has a lemon aroma.

Hoya Australian or southern Hoya australis

A liana reaching a length of up to 10 m. The leaf blades are oblong, glossy, and have a crimson tint. Small flowers are painted white and exude a spicy aroma.

Varieties:

• Trail - has the smallest flowers among the Australian varieties;
• Forester et Liddle – cream flowers;
• Bailey Hill - leaves are round, yellowish, flowers are creamy white with spots of red;
• Tonga - has the largest flowers among Australian varieties;
• Paxtoni, Paxtoni Variegata - have variegated leaves.

Hoya longifolia Hoya longifolia

Climbing vine. The shoots are thin, the leaves are oval, oblong. The umbrella inflorescence consists of 15-20 corollas, emitting a perfumery aroma.

Hoya lacunosa photo

Ampelous plant. The leaves are curved and have a depression in the middle. The shoots have a reddish tint. Cream-colored flowers bloom in May and last only 5 days. In the daytime they exude the aroma of cloves, in the evening and at night - incense.

Hoya obtusa Hoya retusa

The leaves look like pine needles. When grown indoors, the vine reaches a length of about 3 m. The inflorescence consists of 1-3 rather large white flowers with a red crown. There is practically no aroma.

Hoya pubicalyx Hoya pubicalyx

The climbing stem is covered with green leaves with stripes and silvery spots. The umbellate inflorescence consists of approximately 40 flowers. The color range is varied: from soft pink tones to burgundy and black. They emit a perfume aroma that intensifies in the evening.

Many varieties of this species have been bred: Philippine Black, Royal Hawaiian Purple, Silver Prince, Leenie, Dark Red, Chimera, Fresno Beauty, Silver Pink, Red Button, etc.

Hoya miniature Hoya compacta

Hoya compacta variety Hoya compacta ‘Hindu rope’ photo

Compact liana. Feature - the stem is practically invisible under the twisted, curled leaves. Delicate pink flowers gather in a racemose inflorescence and exude a honey-coffee aroma.

Hoya coin-shaped or round-leaved Hoya nummularioides

Compact form with attractive rounded leaves and medium-sized flowers.

Hoya: signs and superstitions

It is believed that the energy of the plant drives sons and husbands out of the house. In addition, financial problems are possible. According to another version, hoya, on the contrary, helps maintain family happiness and pacifies envy.

In fact, the plant is harmless and very popular for home cultivation.

Important! Hoya grown indoors practically never goes into dormancy. The flower can grow and even bloom at any time of the year.

But usually, in winter and autumn, gardeners stop abundant watering and fertilizing so that the hoya gains strength and rests. It is recommended to propagate and transplant in early spring. when daylight hours increase.

How to select and prepare soil?

For Hoya, a neutral or slightly acidic substrate is preferable. Many gardeners use ordinary garden soil. You can prepare a special mixture for growing hoya.

Based on leaf soil

• Leaf soil - 1 tsp.
• Humus – 1 hour.
• Clay-turf soil – 2 hours.
• Drainage is required.

Based on turf land

• Turf soil – 2 hours.
• Greenhouse land – 1 hour.
• Leaf part - 1 tsp.

Another option

Reproduction methods

Seeds

Pros and cons of the method

Hoya usually does not propagate by seeds at home (read about whether it is possible to keep hoya at home and why it is dangerous). Hybrid varieties do not produce viable seeds. Sowing is usually done in special conditions, in humid greenhouses.

How to select and prepare seeds?

The seeds usually ripen after flowering and are found in pods. To sow, they must be well dried.

Important! Use seeds within a year; hoya has a short seed viability.

How to plant - step by step instructions

The procedure for sowing and germinating seeds is long and labor-intensive:

1. Burlap or artificial fibers are added to the sand and peat substrate.
2. The seeds begin to germinate within a week.
3. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of at least 20 – 22°C.
4. Additional illumination of seedlings and regular watering in small doses are required.
5. Seedlings are grown for up to 2.5 - 3 months.
6. When 3–4 leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into small pots.

To prevent rot of seedlings, spraying with copper-containing preparations is necessary.

Cuttings

Advantages and disadvantages

Hoya propagation by cuttings is the most reliable and easiest way to grow. Cuttings are best done in spring, when transplanting young flowers, cutting off long viable shoots.

Preparatory stage

Cuttings are taken only from healthy, undamaged stems. Cut diagonally 6 - 7 cm in length.

Each planting cutting should have 2 - 3 pairs of leaves and nodes. The cut is made below the nodules; it is in the internodes that the roots develop.

Before planting, the cuttings are dipped in a solution of root growth stimulator for 1 - 2 hours.

You can root cuttings in water or a special substrate:

• Drainage layer.
• Sand – 1 hour.
• Peat – 2 hours.

How to root - procedure

The procedure for cutting hoya is simple and is carried out sequentially:

1. The pot is wrapped in foil or thick cloth.
2. Cuttings are carried out without light entering the substrate.
3. The treated cuttings are lowered into the substrate by 1–2 cm.
4. The pot is placed in a warm place – 21 – 23°C.
5. For better rooting, the cuttings are covered with film or foil.
6. The greenhouse is ventilated daily, after 10 days the shelter is removed.
7. After 2 – 2.5 weeks, roots appear.

Attention! Roots should not be allowed to grow, this makes replanting into the ground difficult, the root shoots are brittle, and the flower may take a long time to take root and become sick.

Small pots for planting cuttings are used - 9 - 10 cm in diameter. You can plant 2 - 3 cuttings in one pot.

Substrate for replanting hoya after rooting cuttings:

• Leaf soil - 2 hours.
• Turf soil – 1 hour.
• Sand – 1 hour.
• Humus – 0.5 tsp.
• Mineral fertilizers.
• Drainage.

It is also easy to grow hoya using stem layering:

1. A shallow cut is made on a long shoot, the cut site is covered with moss or sprinkled with substrate, secured, and wrapped with film.
2. After the roots appear, the shoot is cut off and planted in a separate pot.

Video about rooting hoya:

Leaf

Pros and cons of the method

It is almost impossible to propagate hoya from leaves.. The leaf must be planted in light soil, where it will take root well.

However, flower growers note that leaves planted in the ground take root well and quickly, but do not grow or develop. In other words, an adult, beautiful flower will never grow from a leaf.

This method of growing hoya is not practical and is not used by gardeners at home.

Preliminary stage

The rooting process is long, for the effectiveness of the method it is important to use leaves only from natural varieties, growing in natural tropical conditions.

How to reproduce - algorithm of actions

Hoya propagation scheme by leaves:

1. The sections are treated with a root stimulator.
2. It is important to preserve the petiole of the leaf.
3. The leaves are planted in a special substrate at an angle of 45°.
4. Within a week, a new shoot appears.

The root hormone - heteroauxin - is applied with a pipette to the base of the leaf.

How to grow in expanded clay?

Experienced gardeners grow hoya in hydroponics or expanded clay. The method is used when the root system is well developed, when the root processes are quite strong and large. Most often this method is used when germinating cuttings.

Photo

In the photo below you can see what wax ivy seeds look like:

And these are Hoya cuttings:

Wax ivy aftercare

Temperature

For flowering and development, hoya requires a temperature of 20 - 25°C. An increase in temperature in summer is undesirable for the flower; the hoya will begin to hurt.

To reduce the air temperature in the summer heat, you should shade the windows, increase the air humidity - place containers of water next to the pots, spray the flower every day with a fine spray, you can wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.

In winter, the temperature drops by 4 - 5 degrees, but it is recommended to avoid sudden temperature changes. Temperatures below 14 - 16°C are unacceptable for tropical hoya.

Watering

Hoya loves moisture; the substrate should be moist, but not damp, especially in autumn and winter.

Attention! The earthen clod must not be allowed to dry out. Hoya's roots quickly die when they dry out.

Water for irrigation should only be used that has settled, soft, warm, 35 - 40°. In summer and spring it is necessary to water abundantly and regularly., every day in small doses. On especially hot days, be sure to irrigate the bushes, wipe the leaves, removing dust from them, refreshing them and preventing diseases and infections. You can use a warm shower and bathing once every 2 weeks.

Light

Hoya prefers a bright place in the apartment, but the flower will not survive in direct sunlight for long - the leaves will begin to turn yellow.

It is better to install pots on the eastern or western part of the house. In summer, it is advisable to shade southern windows with light, light fabric. Young seedlings are not recommended to be immediately exposed to the sun., the flower needs to gradually get used to bright light.

In winter, on the contrary, hoya may experience a lack of light and begins to shed its leaves. In this case, artificial lighting with special phyto lamps is required for 2 - 3 hours a day.

Pruning and replanting

It is recommended to replant young plants every year in spring. An adult Hoya can be replanted once every 3 to 4 years.. The crown of the flower grows quite quickly and needs reliable support.

When replanting, it is advisable to trim long stems. They can be used for further cuttings.

After flowering, do not trim the peduncle, new buds are formed on the old peduncle.

You can graft branches when 4–5 leaves appear on them; this procedure promotes branching of the hoya.

Feeding

Hoya needs to be fertilized only in spring and summer., during the dormant period the flower is not fed. Fertilizers are applied once every 15–20 days.

Important! If the leaves begin to turn pale and lose their elasticity, the substrate lacks nitrogen.

Pot

During the annual transplantation of young seedlings, it is necessary to use large pots 2–3 cm in diameter.

Pots, planting containers, flowerpots, and tools should be treated with boiling water or chlorine-free disinfectants before planting.

It is important to make drainage holes in the planting containers for breathability and drainage of excess water when watering. Several seedlings can be planted in one flowerpot at a distance of 7–9 cm from each other. Hoya in a group planting looks dense, this makes the flower especially decorative.

What to do if the flower does not take root?

In order to grow a healthy hoya, maintain the bright variegation of the leaves, and achieve bright, dense flowering, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of caring for this flower, avoid overwatering and drying out the soil, dose fertilizing, monitor the lighting and temperature of the exotic content.

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