Shrub rose: pruning for the winter. Pruning roses for the winter: basic rules How to prune a rose before winter

Is it necessary to prune roses before wintering? Video

Among gardeners, especially beginners, there is a strong idea that growing roses is a very difficult task. Let's not argue, there are many subtleties and nuances in this matter. But if you take the matter carefully and try to figure out what exactly is needed for a given species or variety, then understanding will come, and care will no longer seem so difficult. There are many different operations in the care of roses that gardeners must do throughout the season, and one of the most responsible is preparation for winter. It's no secret that in our climatic conditions, many varieties and types of roses for the winter require shelter and pruning. This is where the difficulties begin - one neighbor says to cut, the other advises not to cut. Which of them is right? A paradox, but both are right, they just talk about different roses. Here, let's take a closer look at them.

1. The main purpose of autumn rose pruning is to prepare the bush for shelter. So single bloom, garden and miniature roses do not prune in autumn. Only faded flowers and buds are removed. Young shoots of this year that have not ripened are pinched (in early September). Be sure to remove weak unripened shoots, and branches that thicken the bush. And healthy lignified shoots of park roses do not touch! The hybrids of wrinkled roses do the same - they do not cut off in the fall, and the shoots do not bend down to the ground (with rare exceptions) since they do not require shelter.
2. pruning hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses. Here is another case. Roses of these groups can be safely cut in half, and if the bush grows strongly, then lower. Just try to make the cut point 0.5 cm above the outer kidney. Do not be afraid, such pruning will benefit the plants: the shoots will freeze less covered with snow, or it will be easier for you to cover them with special material.
3. Climbing large-flowered roses pruned in autumn by 1/3. BUT climbing small-flowered roses they don’t cut at all, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growth point, allowing the shoots to ripen for winter. You can also carefully remove old flowers and fruits. But gardeners have a different concern with these roses. To keep climbing roses safe and sound until spring, they must be properly covered. To do this, long lashes are removed from the supports, carefully folded into rings and fixed. Under the lashes, a layer of coniferous spruce branches is placed on the ground and, as it should, they are also covered with spruce branches on top. Do not make too dense, airtight shelter, do not use polyethylene film. During thaws, the plant under it rots. On top of the folded and covered bush, build a semblance of a box so that the wind and rodents do not spoil the shelter.
4. Low ground cover roses, do not need mandatory autumn pruning. They, as a rule, are “insulated” by snow for the winter. If it is not enough, then the gardener should help the plant and sketch it with a shovel. Traditionally, flowers and fruits should be removed.
5. Scars and English roses in principle, they do not radically cut in the fall, but all unripe shoots are necessarily cut out, and the branches that will thicken the bush are also removed. Old branches that have become obsolete (3 years) should also be completely removed. Leave 4-6, maximum 7-8 branches and shoots on an adult bush. It is better to leave a larger amount and cut off the excess in the spring.
6. A little harder with standard roses, because they can belong to different groups, and be grafted onto a different species. In order not to be mistaken, it is better not to do strong pruning in the fall. But in the fall, flowers are removed, unripened shoots are cut off and the bole is prepared for wintering.
7. And of course, it is important to choose the right time for pruning roses before winter. It is produced when the average night temperature drops slightly below 0 C (-1 -3 C). Just remember, if you hurry, then early pruning can provoke the awakening and growth of buds, the same applies to the removal of faded flowers.

Processing roses after pruning

In order for your roses, after pruning through the wound, not to catch a fungal infection of the cut site, it is advisable to immediately treat with any antifungal drugs (fungicides). Such a simple improvised material as charcoal also helps well. It must be crushed and carefully rub the wound.

It is very important to remove all unripe shoots from rose bushes. Some compassionate gardeners leave them - maybe they will overwinter. Not realizing that in this way they endanger the health of the entire bush. Such shoots will freeze as soon as the first frost hits. A degree - 3 is enough for them. And then a short thaw will surely come, and the frozen shoot thaws and begins to rot. The causative agents of any diseases are happy to settle in it, which then capture the entire bush, and even spread to others. That is why such shoots are cut out on all types and varieties of roses indiscriminately. But, what a pity it happens - the escape is powerful, thick, but necessary! And so that this does not happen in the future, starting from mid-July, do not give nitrogen fertilizers to roses, but switch to potash and phosphorus fertilizers - this stimulates the preparation of the bush for winter and the early ripening of existing shoots.

If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. Under cover, there is always high humidity, and this can provoke rotting of the leaves, and then the shoots. What is the result? See the paragraph above: diseases and the heroic struggle against them. After completion of all autumn operations with roses, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and it is desirable to treat the plants with a 3% solution

Roses are the real queens of our gardens. These bright exquisite flowers have always been considered a symbol of love and luxury. A rose is an adornment of any site, but it is a rather whimsical flower that requires care and attention.

Only with appropriate care will the rose feel good and delight you with abundant flowering and a wonderful smell.

Roses do not like beginners, however, in the garden of those lovers who planted them for the first time, roses can also feel great if you make some effort and follow the rules for caring for them.

I love roses very much, and these flowers are fragrant in my front garden all summer long. Indeed, you have to spend a lot of time on them, and caring for roses is not so simple - these flowers require good lighting, nutritious and loose soil, lack of drafts, abundant watering with warm water, organic top dressing, high-quality and skillful pruning and shelter for the winter.

And one of the main components of caring for rose bushes is just the right and timely pruning, which gives the roses the desired decorative effect.

If the rose is not cut or cut in the wrong way, you are unlikely to be able to grow a beautiful profusely flowering bush. Moreover, if the care of the rose is wrong, and pruning is done without proper observance of all the rules and subtleties, the plant may well simply die.

Let's try to figure out why you need to prune roses, what types of pruning are and when it should be done. And then the question: “Do I need to prune the roses” will no longer worry you, because you will know for sure that these flowers definitely need pruning.

Pruning any plant has two goals - the formation of a beautiful bush and the rejuvenation of the plant. Rose is no exception. It is for these purposes that pruning of roses is carried out. Moreover, to achieve these goals, completely different types of pruning are needed, which are carried out at different times.

Bushes should not be too dense, so that the stems do not shade each other and do not interfere with growth. Dried shoots and flowers also spoil the appearance of the plant, and they must be removed. For these purposes, a light spring pruning is carried out immediately after the shelters are removed from the roses. This takes place at the beginning of April.

In autumn, the rose is cut in a completely different way, short, leaving only a few thick stems. Pruning roses for the winter is done so that the bush feels better, produces new fresh shoots, “rejuvenates”, gaining new strength. It is these bushes that delight us with abundant flowering.

So, rose pruning, both autumn and spring, is done in order to:

• the plant has accumulated as many nutrients as possible for further growth and development;
• the rose was able to avoid infections and infection with fungal diseases;
• your plant managed to form as many buds as possible on the newly growing shoots after pruning for the further development of buds and flowers;
• make the root system develop better, which is large enough for a rose;
• stimulate the growth of young shoots for further flowering.

In addition, pruned roses endure winter much better and freeze out much less often. This circumstance is also very significant, since not all southern beauties easily endure the harsh Russian winters.

When should roses be pruned?

With the timing of spring pruning, everything is clear even for beginners - as soon as the winter shelter is removed from the roses, you can choose any sunny and dry day and carry out cosmetic pruning - remove shoots dried in winter, cut off frozen branches or just slightly cut the stems of your bush and give it shape.

You need to cut the shoots with a very sharp pruner, with a quick movement, and make cuts at an angle of about 45 degrees. In this case, the likelihood of infections is reduced. Immediately after this procedure, it is highly desirable to treat the sections with an antifungal drug.

But the answer to the question of how to properly prune roses for the winter, and when it should be done, is not so simple and unambiguous.

Let's first define the timing. Understandably, the timing of fall rose pruning can vary quite a bit depending on the region you live in. In fact, autumn pruning should be carried out around mid-late October.

However, if you live in a warm region, you can move the dates almost to the end of November. Conversely, if you have frosts already in September, then roses can be cut in early October.

Before this period, even if you live in a cool region, you don’t need to cut roses - after pruning in warm weather, which is often set in autumn, the buds will grow, the rose will shoot, and they will simply freeze during the first cold snap, and this threatens the flower with infections.

How to prune roses correctly

In general, there is nothing too complicated in pruning roses, and if you follow all the rules, then even a beginner will cope with this procedure, regardless of the time of its implementation.

It is impossible to prune in rainy weather, you should definitely wait for a dry, windless day, and then proceed directly to the procedure that rejuvenates your bush.

It needs to be done like this:

• first, it is necessary to cut off all existing dry shoots at the root, as well as shoots that are clearly sick or simply damaged;
• leaving a few strong healthy tall stems without many side shoots (3-4 such stems are enough), the rest should be cut almost to ground level;
• those shoots that you left should be cut at an acute angle about 15 to 20 centimeters above the soil level. No more than five buds should remain on such a “hump”, and the cut should be made directly above the last one, departing from it no more than 1 cm. This bud should be on the outside of the shoot, but the cut itself should be turned inside the bush. In this case, your bush will be lush next year. If the kidney is inside the bush. it will start to grow vertically;
• sections are highly desirable to be immediately treated with some kind of antifungal drug.
• it is impossible to leave cut shoots around the bush, they can rot and infect healthy shoots, especially after the roses are covered for the winter. Therefore, cut stems must be burned or thrown away.

Pruning climbing roses for the winter

Often, beginners are concerned about the question of whether it is necessary to prune a climbing rose for the winter. As a rule, climbing roses bloom on the last year's shoots, so it is clear that annual pruning "under the root" of these flowers is not required. However, they also need cosmetic pruning.

In addition, if the climbing rose is not cut, after three or four years it will grow so much that it will simply be impossible to approach it, let alone remove the whips and lay them on the ground for shelter for the winter.

The principles and rules for pruning a climbing rose do not differ from those that we have already described above. Around mid-late October, dry flowers should be removed from these roses, dried or damaged stems should be removed, and healthy, strong shoots should be slightly pruned.

If you short cut all the old shoots, then next year your rose will not bloom.

Two or three strong shoots need to be cut short, this procedure stimulates the growth of new young stems, which will gradually replace the old ones.

After pruning, the stems of a climbing rose should be bent to the ground and covered with peat, mulch or sawdust. If this is not done, the buds on old, limp stems may freeze out, and your rose will not bloom next year either.

Proper pruning of climbing roses contributes to a good wintering and protects them from freezing. If roses are cut correctly, they will overwinter without any problems, especially if there is a dry shelter.

The subtleties of autumn pruning roses

When you are pruning roses in the fall, be sure to consider the age of your plants. If you planted a rose only this year, you do not need to cut the bush much. It will be enough if you shorten the shoots by half for the winter. The next year, when the plant becomes lush due to the regrown lateral shoots, it will already be possible to cut the rose shorter.

If your rose bushes are more than three years old, then the short shoots that formed after last year's pruning should be removed. All shoots that grow inside the bush should also be cut off for the base - there will still be no sense from them, they will only thicken your bush and prevent flowering.

Before you cut the rose and cover it for the winter, you should remove all the leaves from the shoots. It is undesirable to send a rose with foliage remaining on the shoots for the winter. In winter, thaws are not uncommon, and thawing leaves on shoots can easily become sources of infection for your beauties.

In addition, it is imperative to remove those shoots that form below the vaccination level. If this is not done, in two or three years, an ordinary wild rose will grow in the place of your beauty.

As you can see, caring for roses, although not very easy, is nothing that you could not handle. If you put in a little effort and do it right, your roses are sure to delight you with luxurious, fragrant blooms.

How to prune roses in autumn video:

Whoever breeds roses in his dacha or backyard, he knows for sure that this capricious beauty, sung by Antoine de Saint Exupery in The Little Prince, really requires regular care that matches the season. The stage of preparing rose bushes for winter, especially in regions with a harsh frosty climate, is an important task for both beginners and experienced flower growers. And there are no trifles in this.

Everything is important here: at what time, with what and how to cover the bushes of an adult rose, how and with what to feed these ornamental plants so that they do not freeze and get wet during the winter and the protracted spring, but successfully revived to your joy. Long-standing floricultural experience has developed completely clear and useful measures, which this article will introduce you to.

It is very important for beginner gardeners in this matter not to overdo it and not to play it safe: do not rush at full speed at the first slight frost to quickly cover roses. Such panic zeal can cause them direct harm, if not death. Translating rose bushes into winter vegetation mode must be skillful in order to get the best result.

Oddly enough, it sounds, but you need to start preparing roses for winter in hot July according to the principle: “Prepare the sleigh in the summer.” In fact, this is due to the regime of their feeding this month only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

It should be finished with the last mineral top dressing with potassium magnesia, which contains potassium, which is responsible for the development of the root system and the formation of wood of skeletal branches, which, accordingly, prepare all shoots for the winter cold. In turn, magnesium helps to lay leaf and flower buds, as well as shoots for the successful vegetation of beautiful next year's rose bushes.

Removing excess foliage

This seemingly superfluous artificial measure, firstly, is determined by the need to prepare the plants for a state of seasonal dormancy. Secondly, it is a sanitary measure against the appearance in the mass of not completely fallen leaves of a favorable rotten environment for rot and the development of harmful microbes and fungi. Thirdly, in the autumn crown of the rose there are already many leaves damaged by black spot or other infections.

By cutting off excess and defective leaves, we prevent future seasonal problems associated with common rose diseases, and we make the wintering process under cover safe and successful. Cut leaves should be disposed of by burning, preventing the spread of spores, germs and viruses in the next season or significantly reducing their impact.

It is important to know! In no case should the extra leaves be cut off, which leads to injury to future buds and shoots, but cut off with a clean and very sharp secateurs or scissors, for convenience, putting them in the trash immediately. Be sure to cut off the underdeveloped inflorescences and fruits, thereby excluding their decay under cover.

If you have several bushes, and among them climbing ones or a whole rose garden, then such a measure of preparation becomes too burdensome and almost impossible. Here it is important to distribute forces and not to postpone pruning of leaves for one run, since September, dosed this sanitary pruning. If it is not possible to cut off all the leaves in full in the conditions of your rose garden, then you should first of all limit yourself to cutting out defective or diseased leaves. Those leaves that you do not have time to cut, spray with Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulfate, as well as the Maxim fungicide. Treat the soil around the bushes with ash.

If the varietal affiliation of rose bushes allows you to bend their branches to the ground, excluding upright hybrid tea varieties, then the pruning option loses its relevance. Such specimens are cut at least 50 centimeters in order to make it possible to hide them.

Before sheltering for the winter, rose bushes are spudded, or rather sprinkled with a mound, so that during this agromer, the root system of the bush is not exposed. It is better to cover with spruce branches on top, but do not use sawdust, which draws and retains excess moisture, which can cause the root neck of the bushes to warm up.

Climbing rose - pruning and bending down

Pruning of such varieties of roses is more appropriate in the spring. Weak and thin shoots should be cut shorter, and strong shoots should be cut to half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascading crown, in which in the summer the entire bush will bloom on new shoots, and not just its upper part.

When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to maintain their vegetative power by spring and quickly revive in a lush and flowering crown.

The process of work, and even more so bending down for winter sheltering a climbing rose, is traumatic - they have large, often located thorns. For this reason, your equipment must be reliable from goggles to tight gloves, especially all other clothing.

It may seem to amateurs that bending down a rose bush means laying it completely on the ground. Not everything is so tough - it is enough to bend the entire bush by at least 1 meter. But, it is clear that this is also difficult to do right away due to the density and thickness of the main branches. You will have to accustom the climbing rose to a bent posture even for several weeks.

How to properly bend climbing rose bushes

• Firstly, do not wait for a stable sub-zero air temperature, at which rose branches become brittle to break without support.
• Secondly, for a gradual and gentle bending of the main branches, use a strong cord that is tied with one end to the top of the branches, and the other end to the bottom of the trunk. Initially, pull it up to the possible bending of the branches without a break, and then, even within one day, gradually shortening it by retying it.
• Thirdly, this process can be strengthened by boards laid on a bush, under the weight of which the rose branches bend down to the angle of inclination we need.

Another thing is the young bushes of climbing roses. It is enough to tie her shoots at a height of one meter with a rope and lay them out in a ring around the bush, followed by their fixation, otherwise they will “disperse”.

It is important to know! To avoid damage to the bent branches, you need to tilt them in the direction of the grafting site, as if “along the wool”.

Sufficiently bent bushes to continue the process of winter sheltering should be fixed with arcs of suitable material, and preferably with plastic flexible pipes that are frost-resistant, suitable for repeated use. Thanks to their flexibility, they can cover the entire protected bush of any size.

Optimal for growing and sheltering for the winter are special support grids that can be hung on special hooks on a wall or on a support pole. Such lattices make it possible to remove them in the fall along with the branches of the bush attached to them and, with precautions for bending the skeletal branches, lay them with the lattice down directly on the soil. First put wooden boards or spruce branches on the soil so that the branches do not touch the ground.

It is important to know that roses of any kind and variety, if possible, will be better bent to the ground, and not cut off.

Rodent protection. Like all plants sheltered for the winter, roses are attacked by rodents fleeing under cover from the cold, where they have a “table and home”. The correct “treat” for them can be burdock thorns, black root, but more reliable is the waterproof poisoned bait “Cyclone”

How and with what to cover roses for the winter?

Finally, the bush is completely prepared for shelter, and all that remains is to wait for dry, cold weather, but not lower than 5 cold degrees C, in order to reduce the humidity of the protected object to a minimum. We emphasize that the indicated temperature is very comfortable for rose bushes, because at it it hardens.

Shelter at warmer degrees can lead, with the advent of seasonal thaws, to an increase in warm humidity and rotting and even death of plants.

Frame shelter roses for the winter

In our time, progress has reached the point that the market will offer you ready-made protective frames for any plants. It is enough to buy in a specialized store or order on the corresponding website with delivery via mail. For those who can and love to do everything with their own hands, there are sure to be available tools to create this simple to manufacture, but very easy to use frame.

It can be made from a thin metal-plastic pipe, very flexible and pliable, from which you can make two cross-connected "studs" of the required height, install them above the plant. Four of its support tubes can be moved apart along the perimeter of the protected bush. It remains to wrap the cloth with an insulating cloth, connect it on the side and tie it on top, dig around the perimeter with earth, lay with objects fixing their weight, preferably stones or bricks.

We remind you once again that the use of sawdust as insulation is strictly prohibited!

If the fabric of the shelter does not allow itself to be tied from above, it is better to make the upper shelter in the form of a conical “blotch”, securely fasten it so that the wind does not rip it off and the snow accumulating from above fails. The greenhouse effect under such a frame is created due to the internal isolated air mass.

Ruberoid, polyethylene film and other synthetic modern insulating materials are used for winter shelter of plants in regions with severe frosty winters.

They are able to protect, with proper shelter, even from severe and prolonged frosts, although they also have a dangerous drawback - they collect water condensate due to the greenhouse effect, which predisposes to decay, and one cannot delay ventilation through the ends during periods of thaw and early spring and a gradual exit roses from a shelter so that they do not get burned in direct sunlight. Even during the first "walks" after opening, roses should be shaded while they adapt.

Winter sheltering roses with spruce branches

Some people use spruce branches as an inexpensive and natural means of covering roses for the winter, under which a wire frame is also needed, which will be a good tool for snow retention and protection from its load. Snow is known to be an excellent insulating material.

Recently, non-woven materials based on glued cellulose fibers have been widely used as both winter and greenhouse shelters. We are talking about lutrasil or spunbond. Lightweight, translucent to light and to some extent air, these materials come in different densities, thin and thicker.

With careful handling, they can last up to five seasons. As a shelter for roses, you should choose a thick spunbond, folded in two layers.

A valuable quality of a non-woven fabric is its ability not to let moisture in from the outside, and internal vapors freely penetrate outside, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate. The covering device not only breathes, but also does not isolate the plant from the light - in the spring you can immediately open the plants that wintered under it without fear of sunburn.

If necessary, several nearby growing bushes can be covered with non-woven materials at once. It is troublesome and responsible only to fix them in case of sharp winds and heavy snowfalls, but this can be done using the same “studs” made of a metal-plastic tube, after sewing them with strong twine before covering them so that the non-woven fabric does not fall through and does not tear, touching the cut branches of the bushes roses.

Even if you, our dear reader, are a novice gardener, then these simple rules will help you take real care of your “pink” pets. There is confidence that the coming winter will be a simple stage of life and growth and will not bring disappointments and mistakes. Good luck!

Roses are an original and beautiful decoration of any garden, flower bed, flower bed. Their bright, lush flowering pleases the eye almost all summer. However, in order for abundant flowering to be preserved for the next season, the plant should be pruned in the autumn. What varieties need mandatory autumn pruning and how to properly carry out the procedure, let's figure it out.

Is it necessary to prune roses for the winter?

The need for autumn pruning of roses will depend on the variety of the plant, as well as on the main growing goals. Usually the main task of pruning is the formation of a compact, small bush that would easily hide in the winter. In addition, pruning allows you to improve the culture, prepare it for the next flowering season, and increase its frost resistance.

• Autumn pruning has a number of advantages:
• young and strong processes begin to actively grow;
• the growth of the root system is activated, and as a result, the entire bush;
• more young buds are formed on the culture;
• more valuable substances accumulate in the plant;
• after properly pruning, the culture becomes less susceptible to infectious diseases.

Most varieties of roses lend themselves to autumn pruning, but there are those for which the procedure is not necessary. This applies to frost-resistant species that do not need shelter:

• bush or park;
• hybrid;
• ground cover.

Such varieties bloom only once during the summer season, so they do not require pruning in the fall.

Did you know? The aroma of a garden or room rose is considered the strongest antidepressant. People who regularly inhale rose fragrance are less stressed and depressed. Moreover, they become more calm and balanced.

When is the best time to do it

Cut roses in autumn should be carried out during the onset of the first night frosts, that is, when the temperature drops below zero only at night. It should not be delayed with pruning until stable frosts appear, when the temperature indicators are consistently at a minus mark day and night.
As a rule, plant pruning activities are carried out from mid-October to early November. To do this, pre-sharpen and disinfect the appropriate tools. However, more accurate dates will depend on the climatic conditions of the region where the flower grows.

Preparation for the procedure

Immediately before carrying out rose pruning activities, special tools should be prepared:

• sharply ground garden pruner for cutting branches. A blunt tool can damage the bark of a plant by forming a torn cut. Such sections do not heal well, and also become a source of infection;
• a hacksaw, which will be needed to remove old, coarsened branches;
• garden pitch, which is required for cutting sections. It allows you to protect the resulting wound from the penetration of bacteria and infections.

To prevent infection of the flower with fungi and infectious diseases, it is recommended that all tools used be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Basic pruning rules

In order for the measures for cutting roses to bring only a positive result, you should follow a few simple rules during the procedure:

When pruning branches, it is imperative to remove unripened shoots, because under cover they will begin to rot, which can provoke the death of the entire bush.

Video: Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning technology for the winter

The technology for pruning roses for the winter will depend on the variety of the plant, its branching and height. There are several methods of pruning branches, but most often gardeners practice several of them.

Classic way

The classic shoot removal method is suitable for those varieties of roses that are characterized by strong growth, as well as for young plants or old crops in need of rejuvenation.

Classic pruning consists of the following steps:

• only healthy, strong branches up to 15 cm long should be left on the rose bush;
• all dead and dried shoots should be cut to the base, while the cut should be light, not brown;
• thin stems, root shoots are also completely amenable to removal.

Such a sufficiently deep pruning will rejuvenate the plant, increase its resistance to frost, and bring denser, stronger and stronger buds in the spring.

Important! Classic pruning is not used for park, hybrid and ground cover crops.

In most cases, in the fall, for all varieties of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, which consists of:

• in the removal of all green, not fully formed shoots. This is done so that they do not start to rot in the winter under cover and thus do not destroy the entire bush;
• in cutting off all broken, diseased, withered, damaged branches;
• in cutting out all old, stiff shoots, while all remaining branches should be shortened to white healthy tissue.

After the bush is cut, all the greenery must be burned so that it does not become a breeding ground for infections. The soil under the plant should be slightly loosened, shed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Trimming climbing and ground cover bushes

Since climbing and ground cover roses are especially sensitive to pruning, such a procedure should be carried out very carefully, almost imperceptibly.

For ground covers, only sanitary removal of shoots is allowed., during which rotten, withered, old, diseased shoots that are useless for the plant are cut off.
The depth of pruning of climbing crops will depend on the size of the bush. Plants with few flowers do not lend themselves to pruning at all. Instead of removing the branches, it is allowed to pinch the upper bud, the so-called point of development. In bushes with numerous flowers, it is recommended to cut branches by 1/3 of their length, while completely removing weak and diseased shoots.

Did you know? Japanese breeders have developed one of the most beautiful varieties of roses in the world with unusual colors. In the daytime, the petals delight with bright red tints, and in the evening they take on a dazzling snow-white color.

Care for roses after pruning

Pruning is not the only autumn event that needs to be done before wintering roses. In order for the bush to please with violent flowering and excellent health in the spring, you should provide the plant with quality care:

The mandatory autumn events for preparing roses for the winter season also include:

1. Application of fertilizers. Experts recommend feeding each bush using products based on phosphorus and potassium, which contribute to the formation and better maturation of new shoots.
2. Pinching shoots and buds that have faded. At the end of September, faded buds should be removed and young shoots should be pinched.
3. Hilling bushes. In early autumn, it is recommended to hill the crop, which will protect the plant in severe frosts. Hilling is carried out to a height of 7–10 cm, and peat or compost is used as the material.
4. Shelter. The final step in preparing roses for wintering is their shelter. To do this, it is necessary to build a frame using improvised materials: wooden bars, steel bars. From above, the frame must be covered with waterproof material, while leaving special ventilation holes so that the plant can "breathe". The entire structure should be wrapped with synthetic rope for strength.

Important! You need to cover the culture on a dry day so that the ground under the bush is not wet.

Compliance with all the rules for caring for roses in the autumn guarantees every grower a beautiful, blooming and fragrant rose garden for the next year. Do not skip any of the stages, in particular, pruning, which prepares the plant for the spring season, allows it to easily and painlessly survive the winter cold.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

In the decorative landscaping of a summer cottage and the design of any garden, timely pruning of climbing roses in the fall is very important, we will consider instructions for beginners with the rules for preparing garden plants for winter in this article. In order for rose bushes to bloom beautifully, be healthy and thick, they must be covered and prepared for frost. But, since it is rather difficult to do this with overgrown bushes, branches that are too long should be carefully cut. Each gardener should have time to carry out these events in the fall so that the roses feel comfortable and protected in winter.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses is a necessary sanitization of plants

Types of climbing roses: do I need pruning

Rose is considered queen, and she got such a status for a reason. Rose bushes are indispensable in decorative landscaping of a garden area, and individual flowers can revive and brighten any composition or. With their help, you can create a stunning or, as well as decorate buildings in any style.

Climbing roses are ornamental shrub-type plants with long shoots that can be whip-like, creeping and arcuate. Unlike ordinary spray roses, this type of plant needs a special support, which their branches quickly braid.

Features of climbing roses:

Despite the similarity of all varieties of climbing roses among themselves, there is a certain classification of them, based on which each grower already chooses plants for his garden plot.

According to the nature of flowering plants can be divided into the following groups:

The main varieties - differ in the form of shrub growth:

Among some gardeners, there is an opinion that it is climbing roses that do not need autumn pruning at all. However, this is not at all the case: after all, the thicker the flowers, the less light enters the bush. That is why it is necessary to thin out the shrub in order to increase the flowering period and eliminate any diseases.

Competent pruning of climbing roses in the fall with tips for beginners and experienced gardeners is presented in the video below.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses: rules and tools

Pruning roses is a serious gardening procedure, so it requires some preparation and knowledge. It not only prepares plants for winter, but also improves the quality of flowering. For climbing roses, it begins to be carried out only in the second year of growth; the end of September - mid-November is considered the optimal autumn period for this event (depending on weather conditions and climatic features of a particular area).

Why pruning is so important:

• helps to form a bush of the required shape for decorating the garden, which is so important in the landscape design of the site;
• contributes to the accelerated rejuvenation of the plant;
• sunlight and oxygen enter the thinned bush unhindered, reaching each shoot, providing the plant with uniform ventilation;
• it becomes more convenient to cover roses for the winter, which increases the concentration of nutrients inside the bush;
• the plant is less sick;
• shoots become more capable of further reproduction and development;
• the root system is strengthened;
• increases the splendor and speed of the appearance of new buds during the flowering period.

The main purpose of pruning is the regular growth and proper development of flowering shoots in climbing rose bushes. Therefore, it is the replacement branches that are given increased attention by gardeners, because this type of roses blooms due to last year's growth. Only strong and healthy shoots will delight with abundant flowering next season.

What other tasks does pruning solve:

• the formation of a good quality skeletal base;
• elimination of wilted and rotting inflorescences and individual flowers;
• removal of weakened, dry and severely damaged shoots no longer capable of productive development;
• sanitary care;
• stimulating branches of the replacement type for further growth.

The main thing is to observe the measure, pink shoots should be processed very carefully and carefully. Moderate pruning is the shortening of overly long and sprawling branches, as well as a slight thinning of overly dense shrubs.

To carry out the work you will need special tools:

• garden shears - it is necessary to sharpen well and remove rust from the working surface;
• garden knife;
• secateurs;
• gloves to protect hands from sharp spikes;
• rake to remove dead cut stems from the site.

All tools must be sharp so that when cutting, smooth, not torn cuts are obtained. Also, cutting tools should be well disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. As a result of poor-quality work, an infection can get into the bush, and the shoot can be damaged, get sick and die.

Each section must be carefully treated with a special prophylactic agent: potassium permanganate or copper sulfate, wood ash or crushed black activated charcoal, resinous substance "garden var".

Yellow (not bleached) wax is the basis of many garden pitch recipes.

Types of autumn pruning:

1. Light (or long) - only the upper part of the shoot is cut off, it is used for ground cover and elite varieties (Bengali, English, old, etc.). It is important that up to 10 buds are untouched by the pruner;
2. Moderate is a type of pruning in which the stems are cut exactly by half. Suitable for hybrid tea, pernepiano, etc.;
3. Strong (or short) is the most radical way and extreme measures, when shoots are removed to the base, up to two "sleeping" buds. Suitable for roses of branching varieties and tea varieties;
4. Combined - includes both surface and radical pruning. This method allows you to achieve an increase in the splendor of inflorescences and is most often applicable to floribunda.

Be sure to prune roses at an angle so that raindrops and other moisture flow freely from them.

General pruning rules:

Once the roses are pruned, it remains to wait for frost and cover the bushes for the winter. Roses are fairly resistant plants, but they do not tolerate sudden temperature changes at all, therefore, with the first frosts, they must be protected by shelter. When the air temperature reaches minus 5, the stems must be twisted and bent to the soil, and then covered with arcs (as a frame) and any moisture-repellent material (for example, polyethylene film). Spruce branches and cardboard boxes are used to insulate branches.

Everyone wants to beautifully decorate their garden or courtyard of a country house with flower beds or bushes of flowers. But in order for the plants to be beautiful and healthy, timely pruning is necessary, especially for climbing roses in the fall (instructions for beginners and experienced flower growers in the video below) during the preparation of flowers for the winter period.