There are several ways to create even walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.
Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.
The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.
During construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.
To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride yourself by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.
A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:
In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.
Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.
The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with sufficient precision to be used to determine the right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.
The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.
When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.
In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.
Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.
Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.
For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.
Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.
If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.
After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.
After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.
The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.
If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.
When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.
Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.
When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.
If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the inter-wall space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of operation (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. The wood is subject to rapid decay, the risk of damage by insects, this material is a fire hazard: therefore, if you want your structure to last for a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to special processing, in the form of impregnation.
Installation of a partition on a wooden frame
In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in mounting such a frame can arise if you are dealing with an uneven wall. In this case, adjusting the structure in one plane, you will either have to put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the bar thickness in places where the wall plane protrudes.
Finished wooden cladding frame
But first things first.
First of all, we make a wall sag. To do this, using a system of plumb lines, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
dowel diameter and length. The dowel is carefully hammered into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole for a screw in a beam in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.
Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply the beam to the wall and first drill a hole in the beam for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the beam, it marks exactly the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for this bar are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the bar is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are mounting a massive beam, then you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. True, while doing this you should use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.
Laying soundproofing material in the crate space
In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of large voids. In places where an increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are required. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal drywall joints are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are sheathed around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all the outer sides of the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to set additional horizontal bars at the top and bottom, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now apply the rest of the crate.
Finished wooden frame with mineral wool insulation
The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.
You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.
It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the intra-wall space with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the crate, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.
Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame
Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. Screws are screwed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of effort applied, avoiding thread breakage - turning the screw.
A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.
In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.
Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.
To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.
Namely:
Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.
Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.
Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.
Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.
However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.
Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!
Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.
Base bars to a wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.
We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).
Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.
How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.
Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).
You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.
The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross section of the profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.
The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.
In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.
Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take you much time and effort, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.
To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:
First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.
These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.
After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.
You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.
Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.
They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.
In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to mount mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.
After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.
Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.
Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.
Plasterboard lining
Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.
Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.
Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.
You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.
Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:
Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete
Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.
Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:
The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:
If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).
A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.
Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.
Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue
The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.
In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.
Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:
The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.
In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.
In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:
Application of mounting foam
The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.
The general scheme of work for any installation method:
Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.
Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.
The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.
Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:
Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws
After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.
The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.
It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.
When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.
The technology consists of the following operations:
The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.
In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.
When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.
To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.
Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:
When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.
It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.
To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:
In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.
Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL
The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.
Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.
The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.
Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.
The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.
Related articles:
Drywall is probably the most popular residential sheet material. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.
Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.
Here are the arguments in his favor:
Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of 3 square meters. The sheet area of 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.
Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.
The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.
Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.
This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.
I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:
However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.
The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.
Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.
There are at least two good reasons for this:
Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.
I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).
At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:
Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.
At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;
The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.
If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).
It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.
The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.
Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:
Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.
If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.
Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.
1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.
Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.
Cordless drywall screwdriver.
Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.
It can be attached:
Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.
Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.
So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.
Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:
How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:
Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.
The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.
First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.
Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.
Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.
The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:
The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.
Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.
So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.
Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.
By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.
The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on the Eurogips finishing putty.
A couple of nuances:
The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.
The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.
Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.
A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.
So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.
Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.
The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.
The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:
Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.
The edges of the sheets cut to size before puttying are cut with a sharp knife.
I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:
Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.
It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.
This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.
Plastering plasterboard walls.
It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.
Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.
There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.
I use a vibrating sander for this purpose with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.
Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.
Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.
Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!
If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.
Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.
At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:
The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.
The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.
Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.
To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.
For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.
I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!
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Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted, on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.
But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and only then fixing gypsum boards on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.
One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.
In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, you must comply with a number of necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.
The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.
The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.
If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.
If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.
After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.
After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.
For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.
Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.
If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.
If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a mortar, and then with a primer.
It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.
Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions must be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.
After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.
If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.
If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.
If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.
Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.
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Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.
If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.
If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.
As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way to install GKL is to install it on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.
Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps in wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.
GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.
Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering, applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.
There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.
There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:
Preparatory work
Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.
The overall assessment of the situation includes:
Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.
Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws
This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.
Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in the removal of protruding sections of the wall plane. The tubercles of the wooden base are leveled with a hammer and a chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.
Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For facing a relatively flat wooden surface, self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.
Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.
Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.
In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.
GKL fastening with dowels
If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.
The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.
It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.
As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.
Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture
Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:
Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.
Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.
Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.
To work at height, you can use construction towers-tours. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a convenient high-altitude platform, are easily transferred from place to place. For example, ARIS prefabricated towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see the ARIS tower tours.
The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.
Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.
Plates are laid between vertical bars.
After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed with a vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.
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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.
When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:
To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.
Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for hidden sockets or simply lead the wires out from under the cladding to install surface sockets.
That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.
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