Design drawings for block containers. Technology for manufacturing the load-bearing frame of a container block

How to make a container block from sandwich panels

• 1. How to make a container block from sandwich panels
• 2. Do-it-yourself container block construction technology

Sandwich panels have proven themselves to be an excellent material for building block containers. The frame of such buildings is erected from a very durable profile or metal corner, which is then sheathed on all sides.

A block container made of sandwich panels weighs very little and can stand on any shallow foundation - concrete, strip or columnar. You can assemble such a shed with your own hands, subject to the correct technology, in just one day, provided that 2-3 people work.

The most commonly used panels are sandwich panels that have a galvanized steel top layer, due to which they are distinguished by their durability. And for insulation it is best to use mineral wool.

As for the advantages of assembling block containers from sandwich panels with your own hands, they are as follows:

The disadvantages of building a container block from sandwich panels include the considerable cost of the material, but over time it is fully justified.

Do-it-yourself container block construction technology

The technology for building a container block with your own hands from sandwich panels looks like this:

1. It all starts with the construction of a shallow foundation (no more than 0.5 m). A brick foundation or a concrete foundation, as well as a columnar foundation, are suitable for these purposes.

At the time of assembly, it is imperative to ensure that the crossbars are clearly horizontal and vertical, otherwise the sandwich panels will not “lay down” correctly, and gaps may form between them.

3. Then the floor is laid, and after that it’s time for the roof. The slabs are connected by inserting ridges into grooves. At the same time, do not forget about the thermal insulation layers. After this, the walls are sheathed.

4. Lastly, doorways with windows are made. If necessary, additional finishing work is carried out.

This is what it looks like to assemble a container block from sandwich panels with your own hands. In fact, everything is quite simple and uncomplicated, the main thing is to build a strong, reliable frame.

A do-it-yourself bathhouse made from sandwich panels is built using almost the same technology. The only difference here is certain conditions regarding the finishing and thermal insulation of the walls. Today on the Internet you can watch videos on the topic of construction from sandwich panels, find drawings and diagrams of all kinds of buildings.

Block containers

Metal block containers

Block container- This is a convenient and economically feasible option for mobile buildings. Ready-made cabins block containers standard sizes and collapsible block containers, which are installed on site, are two ways of arranging premises for a wide variety of needs.

Efficiency, affordable price and high performance characteristics have ensured the popularity of this type of development.

Modular block containers are delivered ready-made and installed on a prepared base. The design is such that it allows the construction of buildings from block containers of significant area, connecting them horizontally and vertically into 3 or more floors.

Prefabricated block containers, on the contrary, are installed on site using the frame-panel assembly method from individual blocks.

Construction and equipment of the block container

A block container is made from sandwich panels based on a welded metal frame.

External and internal wall decoration depends on the purpose of the building and the wishes of the customer; the standard option is external cladding made of sheets corrugated sheets(galvanized or painted), internal - chipboard.

When placed in an open space, an insulated block container is made, using a layer of mineral wool between the inner and outer layers of sandwich panels as insulation.

The floor is also insulated. If the installation or assembly of a block container is planned inside a permanent structure, then insulation can be omitted or minimally used.

The layout has several standard options, including those divided into two or three separate rooms, depending on the customer’s needs. For example, a vest block container is a popular option in which the internal space is divided into two independent halves, connected by a small service area.

Internal equipment includes any necessary communications.

Subject to technical conditions, it is possible to provide electricity, natural gas, water supply and sewerage, cable television and the Internet.

The materials transmit radio waves and cellular signals well. Thus, a block container allows you to cheaply solve the problem of arranging a room for any purpose.

Application area

Block containers are used to solve a wide variety of problems.

It's simple - DIY block container || STROIM-GRAMOTNO.RU

Industrial, warehouse, and residential block containers have been successfully operated for 10-15 years, fully satisfying the needs of customers. The difference lies in the level of interior decoration of such cabins.

We carry out the production of block containers, delivery and installation of modular buildings for the following needs:

• building block container designed for housing workers and storing equipment on construction sites;
• security points located both inside and outside permanent buildings;
• mobile laboratories, communications offices, canteens, medical units and other office premises;
• block container office with the ability to install all necessary office equipment;
• warehouses, filling and packaging;
• modular houses from block containers of various heights for use as hostels, motels, hotels;
• industrial buildings and those used in the service sector (order receiving point, workshop, block container tire service, etc.);
• collapsible block container for retail trade (stall, pavilion, kiosk and other MAFs);
• modular country houses and block containers for summer cottages (for summer cottages), guest houses;
• outbuildings on garden plots and in household plots.

If necessary, equip sanitary block container We use the necessary materials for hydro- and vapor barrier of premises.

This allows you to equip a shower room, sauna, bathhouse in a block container, toilet, use it as a laundry room, etc.

Our clients:

The advantages of block containers are:

— Fully ready for use.
— Prompt delivery time.
— Equipping with the required equipment.
— Savings during transportation (up to 8 containers per transport unit).
— Unlimited number of installation/disassembly.
— Environmentally friendly materials.
— Regions of use from -50° to +50°.
— Availability of certificates for materials.

Profitable proposition

We are ready to design, manufacture, deliver and install in the shortest possible time.

Order a block container in Moscow e at the best price - this is also for us! Our clients are already convinced that we know how to value their money and time.

By purchasing block container inexpensive, do not think that the price will affect the quality of the work.
Modern production and materials from the best manufacturers allow us to maintain our brand and always please our customers with high-quality designs.

Compliance with the requirements of ISO9001:2001, GOST 23118-99, GOST 15.902-85, as well as SNiP 31-03-2001, II-23-81, III-18-75 are mandatory, regardless of the cost and urgency of the order.

To buy block containers or place an order for the development of an individual project, you just need to contact us. We are always ready to answer any questions you may have, clarify details and dispel any doubts you may have. Contact us in a way convenient for you, we are waiting!

production

Our products have a certificate of conformity No. ROSS RU.SL08.N00012.

Empty container containers comply with GOST 22853-86.

We produce in different configurations:

• block containers of standard sizes (width 2.45 and 3.00 m);
• block sandwich panels 100 mm thick;
• wooden cabins;
• Modular buildings made from custom shipping containers.

Descriptions of container blocks and cabins

Bunker block-container is a space designed for comfortable work in the climatic conditions of body parts 1A-1D in accordance with the requirements of slag 3.11.79 air temperature 35&to -45&C, wind pressure up to 48 kgf/m2 and snow cover pressure up to 150 kgf/m2.

Note: A bulk cargo permit is required for the supply of 3 meter wide containers.

Construction of a metal container

1. External dimensions

Length: 6 m in standard design, container cabins with lengths of 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0 and 9.0 m.
Height: 2.5 m.
Width: 2.5 m in standard version, also 3.0 m.

NB:
— For the delivery of cabins and container blocks with a width of 3 meters, a permit for the carriage of goods is required.

2. Frame

The supporting structure of the container block is a rectangular frame.

The metal part of the rectangular frame consists of an upper and lower band of curved channel no. 14 and corner stops from a curved corner no. 100. The metal part is electrically welded and then varnished with enamel.

There are eyebrows for loading the container block.

The wooden part of the blocking container serves to strengthen the frame and secure the outer and inner shell. It consists of a storey vestibule, corner columns and ceilings with 100x100mm timber, vertical and horizontal 100x50mm timber flow.

third

roofing

Flat roof made of steel plates 1.7-2.0 mm thick, welded with a continuous seam and then painted with enamel. The roof of the house is insulated with URSA mineral wool with a layer of 50 mm. There is a layer of vapor barrier made of PVC film or glass.

4. Walls in color

The walls are a multi-layer structure,

Sandwich panel:

• external wall covering - galvanized profiled sheet or sheet with a polymer coating;
  colors: dark blue, dark green or white.
• Internal processing - needle or plastic coating (in economical molding - DVPO), MDF panels or multi-layer fiber board can be optionally used.
• insulation - layer of URSA mineral wool 50 mm;
• vapor barrier - polyvinyl chloride foil or parchment.

5. Soil in color

The bottom layer of the floor is made of peripheral plates, the thermal insulation layer is made of URSA mineral wool with a layer of 50 mm, the steam beams are made of PVC or parchment.

The floors are made from particle-resistant particle boards.

Covering with linoleum - at the request of the customer. pay.

6. Internal partitions

Frame, non-insulated partitions. They are made of the same material as the walls and ceiling of the container unit.

7. Door color

The entrance door has a wooden frame, the outer cover is made of galvanized iron, with a built-in lock.
Metal doors can be installed at an additional cost.

Interior doors - wooden frame covered with FESCO, painted with white enamel.

Door sizes:

• width - 0.80 m;
• height - 2.10 m.

eighths

Exposed wooden double glazing, already glazed.

to come back to the beginning

Construction of wooden cabins

The construction of the summer hut is a wooden frame, lined on the outside, with fiberboard on the inside.
In wall cavities, URSA insulation is installed on the floor and ceiling.

first

External Household Measures

Length - 5.8 m in the standard version, cabins are available in lengths of 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 meters.
Height - 2.5 m (ceiling height inside the cabin is in the range of 2.05-2.10 m).
The width is 2.3 m in the standard version.

2. Frame

The frame of the cabin frame is a log 100 x 50 mm.

The stocks are also designed to carry cabins within the area. The frame consists of:
— soil inhibition;
- corner posts and ceiling brackets from a rod 50x50 mm:
— Vertical and horizontal logs 100x50 mm.

3. Roof coverings

The cabin roof is flat, made of iron, painted with enamel or galvanized sheet metal.

Heating - URSA mineral wool.

Dacha - individual self-service - step-by-step production training

The vapor barrier layer is made of PVC film or glass.

4. Sex

The bottom layer of the cabin floor is an unedged board, an insulating layer - mineral wool, steam - PVC film or transparent paper. Floor finishing: chipboard moisture content 28 mm.

fifths

The walls of wooden cabins are multi-layer structures:

• external cladding - coniferous species;
• vapor barrier - polyvinyl chloride film / glass;
• heater - mineral wool;
• the inner surface is fiberboard.

sixth

Internal sections

The edge of the partitions, insulated, is finished with the same material as the walls.

7. Door

The cabin door is a wooden frame covered with pine or fibers.

Door sizes:

• width 0.80 m;
• height 2.10 m.

eighths

Windows in color - wooden, open, glazed.

to come back to the beginning

How to insulate a container for living?

The original purpose of a standardized cargo container is to transport goods and personal belongings.

How to make a container block like a temporary cottage for a dacha?

But, thanks to their strength and durability, these structures are increasingly used as warehouses, utility, commercial and residential premises. When converting a sea container into housing, attention is first paid to effective insulation, which will help save on energy in the winter.

Which insulation for a container is more effective - external or internal?

For all houses built using traditional technologies from concrete, foam concrete and similar materials, external insulation is considered the most effective.

This is due to the fact that these materials are porous. Therefore, they are saturated with moisture, which freezes at subzero temperatures and causes the formation of microcracks.

External protection protects walls from these problems.

With a sea container, things are different, since it is made of such a specific material as steel, which has high thermal conductivity, a tendency to corrosion and lack of porosity. And if in traditional building materials the dew point (the place where condensation occurs when there is a large difference between the external and internal temperatures) is located inside them, then in the case of metal walls it is located either on the outside or on the inside.

Correctly carried out insulation of a sea container from the inside will allow you to avoid in both cases negative consequences, which are: steel corrosion, dampness inside the room, fungus.

• Walls must be reliably protected from corrosion by coating with bitumen-polymer mastics or painting compounds.
• The heat-insulating layer must be continuous, excluding contact of the steel cladding of the module with the air of the internal space.
• The design should not contain elements with high thermal conductivity that directly connect the external steel walls with the internal volume of the room through insulation, since they play the role of cold bridges.

  In practice, this means that any metal element located inside the container must be connected to the outer steel lining only through spacers made of wood or other material with low thermal conductivity.

Such a container is a real thermos, for which cooling the outer metal walls to temperatures of -30°C or even lower is not a problem.

How to properly insulate a container house from the inside with your own hands?

• The first step is to cut out window and door openings and holes for chimneys in the planned locations.

  To prevent weakening of rigidity, which is caused by the manufacture of additional holes, profile pipes are welded from ceiling to floor on both sides of the openings, acting as vertical posts. Horizontal sections of pipes are welded above and below the openings and connected by welding to vertical posts. The profile is welded to the sheathing pointwise, and to each other - with a continuous seam. The old container doors are welded shut.

• The entire surface is cleaned of rust, primed and painted.
• To insulate a sea container, polystyrene foam, hydroextruded polystyrene foam, and stone wool are used.
• The walls and ceiling on top of the insulation are covered with a vapor barrier membrane, fixed with a stapler to the sheathing bars.
• The facing material is laid on the membrane: wooden or plastic lining, chipboard, chip-cement boards, plasterboard.

• To insulate the floor of a sea container, polystyrene foam is used, laid in a lathing, or a lightweight concrete screed is poured.

• When installing fireplaces and stoves, it is necessary to use polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam extremely carefully, since these materials, which have good thermal insulation properties, are characterized by low fire resistance.

  All places where insulation comes into contact with hot surfaces are insulated with stone wool pads 50-100 mm thick.

Insulating a sea container with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam: methods of attaching the plates

Let's consider two methods of installing thermal insulation boards, suitable for both external and internal insulation.

Installation of lathing with laying slabs in cells

• The surface is marked so that the width of the cells is equal to the width of the insulation board.
• The frame made of boards is attached to metal walls.
• The slabs are placed tightly in cells.

Installation of plates on a metal surface

• The cleaned metal surface is moistened with water for better adhesion of the metal and the polyurethane foam.
• Polyurethane foam is applied to the slabs along the perimeter, applied to the wall and held for 5 minutes. It will take about a day for the foam to dry completely. Installation begins from the bottom row.
• Plastering with preliminary laying of a plaster mesh is usually used as a finishing finish.

Advice! This method of laying thermal insulation boards is not used for floors, since they quickly fail.

This technology is also not used for the ceiling.

<< Гараж из морского контейнераЖилые модульные здания >>

Manufacturing and assembly

To install a standard block container, enter: "TRANSPAK" - Process Specifications 02.03.2014. 5:35

I agree that a clear visualization of the technological characteristics of the purchased product is much easier to understand if there is a need to purchase it.

We present you with materials on the process of assembling a standard block, for example: TRANSPAK. Some may see this as a short guide; someone can only satisfy their curiosity; and for someone to give an additional opportunity to get acquainted with the main points that determine the quality of the purchased product.

So, why TRANSPAK? This is a block of ships with a special type of equipment, which is characterized by optimal transport standards.

For example, on one traffic platform you can place up to 8 standard container blocks, which, as you understand, are very convenient. Especially when new products come from the manufacturer's premises.

As you know, a new Transpac container block is delivered to the customer in parts, so the creation of a modular space begins with the assembly of container blocks.

Like any other technological process, the assembly of container blocks is divided into several stages, which we warn about.

Unload and install the block container

Unloading a block of containers from a transport platform is carried out using conventional lifting mechanisms, for example: using truck cranes providing a lifting capacity of more than 3 tons.

All standard and special requirements are required at this stage.

Installation is carried out either on a precast foundation or on flat ground, which allows the container block to have six reliable support points. Cubic-shaped concrete or stone structures are suitable as supports.

Removing transport zippers

Like any complex structure, the TRANSPAK container transports its closures to protect the product from damage and deformation during transport.

To remove these fasteners, you must unscrew the fasteners (nuts and bolts). All fasteners must be saved (they will be needed for further work).

Unpacking the components of the block container

In the next step, we make the unpacking transport package (from which it was actually named "Transpac"), consisting of work stations for assembling frames, floor, wall, ceiling, side and corner, quick partition walls, packaging and other supporting elements.

Construction of doors, windows and heaters are all included in the kit. When disassembling transport containers, protective covers and other elements of transport connections must first be separated.

Assembling corners

We began to form the skeleton of the future room.

To do this, place vertical brackets at the corners of the bottom platform that form the floor. The corner beams are firmly secured in place using fasteners left over from removing the transport connections.

At this stage, the upper tongues, which are an essential element of the support pillars, are lubricated with silicone (to ensure the tightness and elasticity of the connection).

In the areas of the lower joints (between the columns and the lower platform) silicone is used without failure.

Installation of the upper platform of the container block

The final step in the frame design process is the installation of the upper platform (the roof of the future room).

The upper platform (using lifting equipment) is mounted on already prepared side supports and secured with threaded connections.

DIY Assembly Module Module

After installing the roof, the mounting screws in the lower and upper corners of the side rails are tightly tightened.

Rubber Seal Sticker

One of the main elements that make it possible to seal future spaces is rubber seals. Despite the fact that these elements are almost invisible, they play an important role in ensuring comfortable conditions in a modular room.

Elastic and lightweight - glued from the inside of the support posts and top platform.

All frame elements are installed in vertical and horizontal planes. Compliance with the requirements of technical documentation, building codes and safety standards is mandatory.

At the end of the Label Print step, the building module frame is considered complete, but the block assembly is not yet complete.

And in front of us, we are still working on installing wall panels, doors, windows and outlets. But read about it in the following materials:

Container bath: where to start
Zoning
Furnace installation: making the right choice
Finishing a bathhouse from a container: basic recommendations

Since building a solid bathhouse from scratch requires not only financial resources, but also certain skills, this may not always be available depending on the circumstances. In this case, non-standard, but very practical solutions will come to the rescue.

So, for example, you can make a bathhouse from a container with your own hands, which is what we will discuss in this article.

A real traditional bathhouse, built of wood, is, of course, the ideal option and the ultimate dream of every steamer. However, making your dream come true is not always possible. The reasons may be either a lack of funds or a simple lack of sufficient space on the site.

Therefore, you can resort to alternative options. One of these is a bathhouse built from a container. It is not only affordable and relatively easy to install, but also very functional.

Container bath: where to start

So, first of all, you need, of course, the container itself, or the change house.

As well as materials for steam and waterproofing, interior and exterior decoration. Today, ready-made trailers equipped for a bathhouse are already on sale.

Design of a standard block container

But despite this, the option to buy a container and arrange it yourself will be cheaper. And even in this case, you can be sure of using high-quality finishing materials, this is especially important for insulation.

• thorough preparation of the site for construction.

  At the same stage, it is necessary to plan the location of the main areas of the future bathhouse and provide for the optimal placement of the drainage system;

• installation of supports under the container. They can be made of brick, which is preferable. The use of cinder block supports is undesirable, because they will quickly become unusable due to changes in temperature and humidity. It is important to take into account that for free flow of water from the washing room, a slope should be made towards the drain hole;
• insulation of the building.

  At this stage, you should clean the surfaces of the container walls from possible contamination and carefully seal any existing cracks. If necessary, reinforce the outer side with a metal frame. Next, outside and inside, it is necessary to cover the walls with waterproofing material and then with insulation. When choosing materials for external vapor and waterproofing, preference should be given to glassine or materials based on mineral wool, without impurities;

• Finishing work.

  They involve covering the future bathhouse from the outside and inside. At the same time, it is better to sheathe the outside of the bathhouse with wooden beams, be sure to treat the wood with special compounds designed to protect against fungus, mold and possible fire. And inside the room you should cover the insulation layer with waterproofing, and only then proceed with decorative finishing;

• floor installation.

  It is best made from two layers of boards, and insulated in the locker room and shower with the same materials that were used for the walls and ceiling;

• window installation. If it is necessary to install it, it would be advisable to install a double-glazed window. The ability to quickly ventilate the room and excellent heat-saving characteristics are its obvious advantages;
• installation of partitions.

  It is a frame made of beams, covered with boards and then clapboard;

• arrangement of holes for water drainage and chimney.

Zoning

When building a bathhouse from a block container, for maximum comfortable use, it is important to divide it into several zones.

It would be logical to provide them with the following arrangement:

1. Locker room (aka rest room).
2. Washing compartment (shower).
3. Steam room.

In this case, the boiler installed to the internal partition of the steam room will heat two adjacent rooms, except the locker room.

It is very convenient and practical.

Furnace installation: making the right choice

It is important to foresee the type of stove for a bathhouse made from a container at the preparatory stage.

And it is better to install the hole for the pipe before finishing work on the ceiling begins.

Among the existing varieties of sauna stoves, the most optimal for a small sauna from a sea container are:

As a rule, a traditional stationary bathhouse uses a combination of a metal tank and brickwork.

Considering the small size of the bathhouse being created, one tank for heating water will be sufficient. It can be purchased ready-made; the range of various models on the modern market is represented by both foreign and domestic manufacturers

Or you can make such a tank yourself, for which you should choose a special metal profile that can withstand high temperatures.

To do this, you should choose a place taking into account the natural movement of air and the need to heat the remaining rooms of the bathhouse. As a rule, the installation is carried out near the partition that separates the steam room from the washing compartment (shower).

It should be taken into account that the distance from the tank to the wall must be at least 20 cm. In this case, the wall itself should be covered with a layer of heat-reflecting and thermally insulating material, and the floor under the stove must be reinforced with a cement base.

As an option to provide the shower with hot water, you can make a water supply running from the stove.

In order for the liquid to circulate freely in it, it is important to pay attention to the correct arrangement of objects:

1. Lower level – heating tank
2. Middle level – pipes for water supply.
3. High level – container with water.

In the case where there is no connection to a pressure water supply, it is preferable to install a container with a larger volume of water.

This will avoid moments when the water suddenly runs out.

Also, you should carefully choose pipes. They must be designed for use at high temperatures.

When performing finishing work in a bathhouse from a container, it should be taken into account that:

• For interior decoration, lining is perfect.

  It can be made of aspen or pine, as well as exotic tree species;

• If you use pine boards in a steam room, you should first heat the stove and carefully remove any resin that appears without waiting for it to dry.

After the main work on installing and arranging a bathhouse from a sea container is completed, you can proceed to treating wooden surfaces with special compounds.

This measure will not only significantly improve the appearance of the wood, but will also serve as an excellent preventive measure against mold, mildew and premature wear.

If this step is skipped, the untreated wood loses its color and gradually, over about 3 to 5 years, begins to darken. And this worsens the aesthetic appearance of the bathhouse.

It is mandatory to treat wooden surfaces in the locker room and shower areas.

To do this, you can choose universal formulations based on natural oils or wax. Their operating principle is approximately the same: penetrating into the deep layers of wood, they form a protective film on its surface.

However, it is important to remember that such compositions are not suitable for treating sun loungers in a steam room, as they can cause burns if they come into contact with the skin!

As for the treatment of the steam room, there are several points of view. According to one, treating surfaces in a steam room with any (even the most harmless) compounds is categorically unacceptable. According to another point of view, processing is possible using the most natural compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the wood.

In any case, the modern market offers a wide range of similar products from different manufacturers and price categories, which will allow you to choose the most suitable composition.

Now, knowing how to make a bathhouse from a container with your own hands, you can safely start making your dream of your own bathhouse come true!

Cost of containers (St. Petersburg and Leningrad region)

The price of such packaging is relatively low, which allows almost everyone to purchase it. Despite the simplicity of their design, they are very reliable, which allows you to safely transport various cargo even over long distances.

The basis of such containers is a fairly strong frame, which is made by welding steel blocks together. To create a reliable foundation, longitudinal and transverse beams are used. The side panels are welded into it at the corners. Similar beams are used when arranging the roof. The entire perimeter of the container is lined with anti-corrosion steel sheets. The thickness of the steel ranges from 1.5 to 2 millimeters. Only high quality alloy steel is used.

Wood is used to create a reliable floor covering that will allow you to transport goods with a large mass. In most cases, pressed plywood is used, the thickness of which can reach 4 centimeters. To prevent the formation of mold and fungi inside the container, pressed plywood can be impregnated with special solutions.

Drawing of containers of any type can be found on our website. Here you can find out about the cost, technical characteristics and delivery conditions.

During construction or simply for temporary residence in a country house, a simple-to-construct and unpretentious building is often required. As they say, cheap and cheerful. Often such temporary buildings are built from wood and have minimal functionality. But today a new type of temporary buildings has become widespread - a block container. It can serve as both temporary housing for builders and completely permanent housing for summer residents. It is quite easy to build a block container with your own hands, and its functionality will allow you to fully enjoy the fruits of civilization outside the city.

Types of block containers

When planning to build a block container on a site, you need to decide in advance what it will be like. This determines how much money and effort will be spent on its installation. The fact is that block containers, according to the method of assembly, can be divided into three types: self-assembled block container, converted from a transport container, and collapsible block container. Each of these types of block containers has its own advantages and disadvantages. Which one will be preferred depends only on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owners.

Most of these structures are built with your own hands from scratch and according to your own drawings. Metal corners are used for their frame, corrugated sheeting is used for the external walls, interior finishing is done by covering with clapboard or plywood, and stone or mineral wool is used as insulation. A distinctive feature of such block containers is their non-standard sizes. In fact, such a block container can be made with your own hands of any size and shape. To erect the entire structure, you will need a welding machine and skill in working with it, which can be a decisive factor in favor of a self-assembled container.

Today, block containers converted from transport containers are especially popular. They have many advantages, but also a lot of disadvantages. The main advantage of such a container is the ready-made design, which only needs to be slightly modified. But such a disadvantage as standard sizes may not work in favor of a shipping container when choosing. Of course, it is quite suitable as temporary housing for workers, but as a seasonal country house it can turn out to be very inconvenient.

With the development of the market and technology in construction, block containers began to appear, which are easy to install and also easy to disassemble. Collapsible containers are very popular among construction companies. They can be disassembled and stored in a warehouse, fortunately, they take up little space, and if necessary, sheds can be quickly erected for workers at the construction site. The production of such block containers is carried out by specialized companies. The design itself is for the most part similar to a homemade block container, but the use of sandwich boards as walls, floors and ceilings clearly distinguishes a prefabricated block container. If you don’t want to bother with welding, then if you have a certain amount of money, you can purchase a ready-made block container and simply assemble it like a construction set. For a prefabricated block container the price ranges from 2,000 USD. up to 5,000 USD and depends on the internal area.

Installation of a block container

Having decided on the type of block container, you can begin installing it. As already noted, each type of block containers requires certain labor costs. The most labor-intensive is homemade. To create it, you will first have to complete a drawing, purchase materials, then assemble the frame and sheathe it. The simplest and least labor-intensive collapsible container. But the total cost may be higher. Let's look at how to assemble each of these types of block containers with your own hands.

Assembling a block container from scratch

When starting work on creating a homemade block container, the first thing you have to do is its drawing. To do this, you can use a computer program such as ArchiCad, or you can simply draw a simple drawing on a sheet of paper. The drawing must indicate all the dimensions of the future block container showing the installation location of the door and windows. For a self-made block container, you can choose almost any size convenient for you. But there is one important point. If in the future it is necessary to transport such a container, then its width should not exceed 2.5 m. To create a block container, the drawing must contain a description of all materials and dimensions. Particular attention should be paid to the frame, namely the installation location of the door and windows. The doorway and windows will require additional studs. Finally, we indicate the material for wall cladding and insulation. From materials you will need the following:

• for the frame, bent channel 100 mm;
• metal sheets 2 mm thick for the subfloor;
• galvanized corrugated sheeting for external cladding;
• wooden block 40x100 mm for joists and internal frame;
• 25x200 mm boards for the floor, as well as flooring, such as linoleum;
• superdiffusion membrane for vapor and moisture protection;
• insulation (mineral or stone wool) for walls, floors and ceilings;
• plywood or plastic lining for interior cladding;
• windows and door.

From the tool you will need Bulgarian, welding machine, tape measure, drill, manual circular saw, hammer, screwdriver. As for wood fasteners, you can opt for screws or nails.

Having acquired everything necessary, we proceed to the construction of the block container. Begin from preparing the site for the installation of a block container. To do this, we level the ground and compact it thoroughly. To prevent the container from standing on bare ground, it is necessary to create a simple foundation for it. To do this, you can build brick columns, lay concrete slabs or create a pile foundation.

Next, we move on to cutting pieces of channel for the frame using a grinder. Having received the required number of pieces of the required size, we proceed to welding them. At the beginning create the bottom harness. To do this, we take channels corresponding to the length and width of the block container, lay them out on a previously prepared surface and weld them together into one continuous frame. During the welding process, corners can become loose, so to prevent this from happening, you need to grab the corner at several points, then check and, if everything is fine, then weld the entire seam to the end.

Important! To make a simple pitched roof, just cut several posts of greater length. Usually the racks on the door side are made longer. But this approach is justified if it is not planned to create a different type of roof.

Having welded the lower trim, let's move on to the racks. They will be located in the corners of the trim, one or two on the back wall, as well as in the area of ​​the doorway and windows. We start from the corners. After the stand is installed, it is necessary for a partner to hold it in a strictly vertical position while the welder grabs the stand in several places. And if we managed to do it without tilting, then we finally weld the stand. For additional stability, triangular spacers can be welded at the bottom of the post. We weld all the other racks in the same way.

Important! The distance between the doorway posts should be equal to the width of the door. Also, for reliability, a jumper is welded between them at the top. The height from the lintel to the corner should be equal to the height of the door. The same applies to window openings. But in addition to the upper one, they must also have a lower jumper.

The next step would be welding of the top trim. Everything is quite simple here. Corners for the top trim are placed on top of the already welded perimeter racks and welded.

After the frame has been created, let's start arranging the floor for a block container. To do this, first create a subfloor from metal sheets. This is done in order to protect the finished wooden floor from exposure to moisture and the penetration of rodents into the block container. The sheets are laid out inside the frame. Their edges should be placed inside the bent channel and also rest on the foundation. When the sheets are laid out and their edges are fitted close to each other, we spot weld the sheets together. Then we place several narrow pieces of metal on top of the seam, so that they are placed perpendicular to the main seam, and weld them. Finally, we weld the sheets along the seam.

Further We proceed to covering the block container with galvanized corrugated sheeting. Everything is quite simple here. Sheets of corrugated sheets are installed from the inside of the frame. If the height of the sheets is slightly larger, then they can be trimmed with a grinder without much difficulty. The corrugated sheet is fixed to the frame in several ways. You can use short metal screws with a wide head, or you can fasten them with tear-off rivets.

Important! When installing sheets in window openings, you should allow the sheet to overlap the window opening by 3 - 4 cm. This is necessary in order to hide the cracks and places filled with foam after installing the windows.

Having finished with the walls, go to the roof of the block container. For the roof itself we use the same corrugated sheeting. The only thing that will need to be done is to weld a few more jumpers between the walls to securely fasten the corrugated sheeting. Next, we lay the corrugated sheet itself and fix it to the metal frame.

The next step would be creation of a wooden frame, its insulation and cladding. The frame itself is needed for laying insulation so that the latter does not fall out or crumble. For this we use a wooden beam. First we install the racks, then we make jumpers between them. The internal dimensions between the posts and lintels must correspond to the size of the insulation, minus 5 - 10 mm for reliable fastening inside. Now we lay a superdiffusion membrane over the frame and fasten it to the wooden frame with a stapler. Finally, insulation is placed inside the frame and a superdiffusion membrane is laid on top of it again. All that remains is to cover the walls with plywood or clapboard. We cover the ceiling in a similar way.

As for the floor, it will be on wooden joists laid on metal sheets. Its creation is similar to wall cladding. First we lay the joists. We choose the step between them so that the insulation fits there. Then we lay the insulation and lay the membrane on top. All that remains is to lay and secure the boards for the floor itself. The boards themselves need to be sharpened, fitted closely and secured to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws, and the finishing floor covering should be laid on top of them.

Now moving on to the windows and doors. Since such a block container is intended for temporary residence, it would not be superfluous to take care of a strong and reliable door. It would be best to make it yourself from steel sheets. But creating such a door requires a lot of experience, so it’s easier to buy or make it to order. The door itself is installed on metal hinges, which are welded to bent channel posts. When installing hinges, you must strictly ensure that they are on the same line. For a metal door, three hinges are installed. Two on top, at a distance of 20 and 50 cm from the edge of the door, and one below, at a distance of 30 cm from the threshold. After which the doors are hung in place.

As for windows, there is one important point. Windows are vulnerable to break-ins, so they will need to be protected with bars. The grill itself is welded to a steel channel, which acts as a window opening. The windows themselves can be either wooden or metal-plastic. When installing, you need to check the verticality of the window so that it does not fall over. The gaps between the window frame and the channel post can be foamed. This completes the creation of a homemade block container. If desired, additional finishing work can be carried out inside.

Conversion of a ready-made sea container

The fashion for everything Western has also affected block containers. Today it has become popular to use block containers converted from sea shipping containers as cabins or even permanent housing. The cost of a block container converted from a transport container may be slightly higher compared to a home-made one, but the work required to equip it is an order of magnitude less.

To make a metal block container converted from a transport container, the first thing you have to do is select and purchase a used container itself. Ads for the sale of shipping containers can be found without problems. Such containers are produced in several sizes: standard and HC (High Cube). Respectively, 20 and 40 feet in length (6 and 12 meters), a width of 2.35 m and a height of 2.4 m and 2.7 m. A standard container can be found for an average of 1200 USD, and a HC container for 2100 USD. e. Such standard sizes impose certain restrictions, this is especially unpleasant with regard to the width of the container. But the solution to this situation can be the docking of two or more containers. To create a livable block container from a transport, you need to do the following:

• purchase one or more containers and deliver them to the site;
• while the containers are on the way, prepare and level the area for its installation;
• as in the case of a homemade one, a simple lightweight foundation is created under the shipping container;
• After delivery, the container is installed in place. To do this, you need to order a crane in advance;
• if the containers will be joined, then after installing them we cut off the touching walls using a grinder;
• at the junction, where the lower and upper trims pass, as well as the vertical posts, we weld them together;
• if there is only one container, then we proceed to cutting out openings for windows and doors. We do this using an autogen or grinder;
• to secure the door in the doorway, you can install two vertical posts made from a metal corner;
• further work will consist of finishing the block container. They are identical to the work described for a homemade block container. The only important difference will be the need for external finishing, namely painting or cladding of metal walls.

Of all the block containers, the most expensive and at the same time the easiest to assemble is the collapsible block container. Such containers are made to order at a specialized enterprise. A prefabricated block container has a standard width of 2.5 m, and its length can vary from 2.5 m to 6 m. It is also possible to create a block container of a longer length. The assembly of such a container is carried out by two assemblers and resembles a regular construction set, the assembly time is from 4 to 6 hours. Such high assembly rates are due to the use of sandwich panels and pre-fitted parts. When doing the assembly yourself for the first time, the company can provide its own specialist and a full set of assembly documentation.

Prefabricated containers are assembled in several stages. At the first stage, the frame is assembled and connected using bolts. On the second floor, the floor is laid and the roof is mounted. At the third stage, the walls are installed. Finally, the windows and doors are installed. In the photo demonstrating a collapsible block container, you can see how easy and simple such containers are to install.

There are no special secrets or difficulties in creating block containers. The main thing that is needed is the ability to handle the tool. Since it depends on this whether you can assemble the entire structure with your own hands. For those who are not used to or do not know how to work with their own hands, we can recommend hiring specialists and purchasing a ready-made block container.

The design of block containers and security posts is based on a metal frame, which consists of a bent channel 120x50x3 and 140x60x4 mm, steel 3SP/PS-5, GOST 8278-83, which serves as the lower and upper trim. Metal corner posts are also made of 3SP/PS-5 steel and have a C-shaped profile to increase the strength and stability of the frame.

All metal parts are welded together. Welded seams are reinforced with metal embeds, corner gussets and plates.

The frame of the metal cabin and security post is covered with enamel to prevent corrosion and rust. The enamel color can be chosen at the customer's request.

The roof of the block container is made of sheet metal St08ps5, TU 14-106-321-2010, 1.2 mm thick. Sheets of metal are welded together in a continuous seam using semi-automatic welding in a carbon dioxide environment - this is the most reliable type of welding that will provide protection against water penetration through the roof, its integrity and durability. The roof, like the frame, is covered with enamel to prevent corrosion.

The metal frame is reinforced with a wooden sheathing, which consists of a block of coniferous wood of natural moisture, with a cross-section of 100x40 mm. The wooden frame serves to increase the strength qualities of the structure and for fastening the interior and exterior finishes.

Mineral wool from various manufacturers, such as URSA, Knauf, ISOVER, ROCKWOOL, is used as insulation. Depending on the wishes of the customer, the thickness of the insulation of the block container can be 50 or 100 mm, stone wool insulation and soundproofing panels made of mineral wool can be used.

The interior decoration of the block container and the security post differs in appearance and quality of finishing materials. The main criterion for selecting interior decoration is the intended purpose of the selected structure. For example, for housing construction crews or for a warehouse at a construction site, tire service - a block container with economy-class finishing, such as “hardboard (fibreboard)” or “fibreboard (Fibreboard)” is suitable. A block container designed for organizing a sales office, a store, an engineering staff headquarters, a security post - a more expensive and high-quality finish is suitable. Such as "MDF panels", wooden lining. Of course, these examples do not exclude mutual replacement of each other. Very often our company orders metal cabins for housing construction crews with excellent interior finishing - MDF panels.

For the exterior finishing of the block container, galvanized C8 corrugated sheet, 0.4/0.45 mm thick, is used. The C8 corrugated sheet has a large number of stiffening ribs, which creates additional reinforcement for the walls of the block container, its reliability and integrity. As an additional package, we offer polymer-coated corrugated sheets (RAL), which can be of various colors. You can see the colors and appearance options in the block container and security post appearance configurator.

As standard, the container block has wooden windows measuring 80x65 centimeters (over glass). The wooden windows are double glazed. To improve the comfort and other qualities of the block container and security post, we can offer plastic tilt-and-turn windows measuring 90x80 centimeters.

The floors of the block container have a multi-layer structure. At the base of the block container there is a rough edged board, which is the “bottom” of the structure and on which the vapor barrier film and insulation are laid. The last finishing layer is 16 mm moisture-resistant chipboard, or 28 mm tongue-and-groove floorboard. To improve the comfort, durability and safety of the floor, we suggest laying linoleum.

We use several types of different doors as entrance doors to the block container and security post.

Currently, cabins are at the peak of popularity among temporary modular buildings. This is due to the low cost of the design and wide range of applications. The structures are used as country houses, construction trailers, warehouses, mobile offices and security posts. They are quickly and easily installed, without requiring a permanent foundation for installation.

The type of structure, dimensions, layout, interior and exterior decoration depend on the scope of application. This allows you to choose a structure that fully meets the individual requirements of the owner. Thanks to their unique structure, the cabins can be used all year round. To do this, you just need to insulate the structure and take care of the heating devices in advance.

Varieties of cabin designs

Based on their design features, cabins are divided into three main types.

• A change house on a metal frame consists of a durable iron frame, which has additional stiffening ribs. The bottom of the structure is covered with metal sheets, the walls are made of galvanized corrugated sheets or vinyl siding. The structure is resistant to frequent transportation and is suitable for living in winter, subject to high-quality insulation.
• Wooden frame construction is most often used as country houses. It consists of a durable timber frame, which also has stiffening ribs. The advantage of this type is environmental cleanliness and aesthetic appeal.
• The panel cabin does not have a reliable frame. Consists of a warp and wooden panels. The roof of the structure is usually made of thin iron. The advantage of the design is its low cost, but the disadvantage is its short service life.

Container block design

A block container is a modular structure that resembles a sea container in appearance. Consists of several basic elements.

• The lower frame is a welded structure made of a metal profile, sheathed with a smooth sheet or galvanized profiled sheet.
• The supporting racks are made of a reliable profile of complex shape. The thickness of the metal should not be less than 3 mm. The racks are connected to the upper and lower frames by welding or bolting.
• The upper frame has the same design as the lower one. Sometimes it can be sewn up with a galvanized sheet in a folded manner.
• The walls of the block container can be made of smooth iron, profiled sheets, sandwich panels, etc.

Doors and windows are installed depending on the area of ​​application of the cabin and taking into account the wishes of the customer.

Construction of a wooden cabin

The frame of the structure consists of durable wooden beams and joists, which create reliable support for the entire structure. The base of the cabin consists of two layers: a steel sheet on the bottom and a wooden covering on top. The roof is usually covered with a galvanized metal sheet, which prevents moisture from entering the room. External finishing is carried out using eurolining or profiled sheets, creating an imitation of wood. In its finished form, a wooden change house has an aesthetic appearance, reminiscent of a wooden house.

Characteristics of a standard wooden cabin:

• Dimensions (LxW) – 6mx2.5m.
• The average weight of the structure is up to 1.5 tons.
• Usable area – 14 m.
• Resistance to seismic activity – up to 5 points.
• Service life – 15 years.

The dimensions of the structure may vary depending on the individual requirements of the customer. To change the dimensions you need a detailed design drawing.

Frame making video

Metal cabin design

Due to their durable frame, metal trailers are easy to transport and can withstand significant loads, which is necessary for their use on construction sites. If necessary, the cabins are connected to each other, building a two-story structure, and after construction is completed they are dismantled and transported to another area. The service life of a metal structure is 20 years, which is several times longer than that of wooden structures.

Brief characteristics of a standard metal cabin:

• Standard dimensions are 5.85 x 2.4 x 2.4 (LxWxH).
• Average weight – up to 2 tons.
• Usable area – 14 m2.
• Maximum number of people – 8 people.
• Frame – bent channel, corner.
• Exterior finishing – metal sheet, corrugated sheet, vinyl siding.

A metal change house is an economical and reliable design that can be used in various fields of activity.