Caulker of a bath from a bar. Bath caulk: technology and selection of material

The caulk of a wooden house is an important step in warming the finished building using natural or synthetic heat insulators. Here, every detail matters: the right working tool, high-quality insulation material, work performance technology. Not all homeowners are aware of how to correctly seal interventional gaps and joints in order to reduce possible heat loss, avoid warping the house structure, and prevent rotting of wood and heat insulator.

What is the caulking of the log house for?

Thermal insulation of a log house contributes to the preservation of heat in the premises, prevents the deformation of wood and a decrease in its operational parameters. Modern heaters are durable, practical and safe, therefore they provide high-quality caulking of wooden buildings.

Caulker felling solves the following tasks:

• eliminates cold bridges and reduces heat loss at home;
• corrects structural defects in the structure;
• eliminates various flaws in external and internal corners, crowns, door and window openings;
• makes the house more attractive and reliable;
• increases the life of wood.

When is the caulking

The caulking of a wooden house is carried out in several stages, and this is due to the gradual shrinkage of the wood. Maximum shrinkage takes place during the first 18 months after the completion of construction work and stops after 5 years.

1. The first stage of caulking is performed after the assembly of the log structure. In this case, when building a house, thermal insulation material fills the space between the logs so that the edges hang freely on both sides. After installing the roof structure, the insulation is hammered into the connecting seams between the crowns.
2. The second stage of insulation is carried out 1.5 years after the completion of construction work and preliminary shrinkage of the house. The insulating material is laid tightly enough to hide all the gaps and cracks.
3. The third stage of caulking is carried out after 5 years, when the shrinkage process of the log house is considered to be fully completed. All existing defects between the logs are filled with insulation.

Important! For a log house, all three caulking is carried out, and for a house made of timber, which will be lined with siding on the outside, the third stage of caulking is optional.

Materials for caulking

For caulking timber or logs, it is better to use natural heaters with the following characteristics:

• hygroscopicity,
• resistance to temperature changes,
• breathability,
• environmental Safety,
• ease of installation.

These heaters include:

• moss (red and white),
• tow,
• lnovatin,
• jute.

Moss

The safest and most practical material with excellent antiseptic properties. It provides reliable protection of wood from rotting and biological damage.

Moss (sphagnum) is a reliable material for sealing interventional joints: it passes air well and quickly absorbs excess moisture, prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi, and as a result increases the service life of wood.

Moss is resistant to fire and decay, therefore it is able to maintain its performance characteristics for a long time. High cost is the only drawback of such material.

Self-procurement of raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of thermal insulation of a house made of logs or timber.

Before caulking the walls, the pre-treated moss must have a suitable moisture level - not excessively dry or wet.

Tow

A practical and safe material that is used for caulking crowns after complete shrinkage of the log house. It is made from hemp, jute and linen fibers.

Sold in pressed bales or rolls. Tow in bales has short and stiff fibers, which complicate the process of driving interventional seams. High quality tape tow has long, elastic and soft fibers.

This material has low antiseptic properties, is susceptible to high moisture, and therefore requires additional treatment with protective impregnations or paints.

The main disadvantages of the insulation include the complexity of laying, the unattractive appearance of the treated seams, and the short service life.

Lnovatin

A natural material for caulking wooden houses, which is produced by pressing short flax fibers into ribbons. Lnovatin has high heat-insulating and moisture resistant characteristics. Such insulation is able to provide reliable protection of wood from rotting and mold damage.

Lnovatin is used for sealing seams between crowns with fixation on metal staples.

Jute

The most high-quality and durable tape insulation for caulking houses made of logs or timber. The material has high heat-saving properties, is not susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Even with prolonged exposure to moisture, jute fiber remains almost dry.

Jute is used for primary and secondary thermal insulation of the house. It has high strength, wear resistance, elasticity and practicality. It fits into interventional seams with fixation on staples.

The only drawback of the material is its high cost.

Caulking tools

If natural materials are used for thermal insulation of a wooden house, then before caulking, prepare:

1. Kiyanku. A small wooden or rubber mallet for laying insulation with wooden caulks.
2. A dial-up caulk. A spatula with a metal or wooden base, blade width 10 cm, thickness 0.5 cm. This is the main tool for caulking log crowns.
3. Crooked caulk. Curved chisel with a flat blade 5 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Used to fill fillet joints and gaps in rounded sections of a building with insulation.
4. Road builder. Triangular blade with a special longitudinal groove. Blade width - 17 cm, thickness - from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. The tool is designed to fill gaps of equal width.
5. Breaker caulk. A narrowed wedge-shaped blade up to 3.5 cm wide, which allows you to widen the intervention gaps for the convenience of laying heat-insulating material.

Important! All caulk blades should be slightly dull and smooth to avoid damaging the wood and pulling the insulation out of the seams. Before starting work, the tools are thoroughly cleaned with a clean cloth.

Logging caulking technology

The process of caulking a house from a log house is carried out in stages. There are two caulking methods:

• in stretching
• into a set.

It doesn’t matter what method the caulking is carried out at home, all insulation work begins with the lower crown. Next, we will consider how to competently caulk a wooden structure.

Stretching

Stretched caulk provides for the insulation of the seams between the logs with pre-stretched heaters. For this, fibrous and rolled materials are used.

Fibrous insulation

1. Work is carried out from the ends of the lower crown. A small part of the insulation (for example, tow or moss) is applied with transverse fibers to the seam and clogged inward with a type-setting caulk.
2. At the edges, the insulation is rolled up with a small roller and compacted into an interventional seam.
3. Next, a new portion of insulation is used, which is formed into a roller, and the entire caulking procedure is repeated. This allows you to qualitatively seal the seam along its entire length.

Roll insulation

Dense rollers from roll insulation are much easier to get. For even distribution, the material is gently stretched along the entire length of the seam and applied to it across the fibers.

1. The tape is unwound on a flat surface from one of the corners to the opposite corner.
2. Having picked up the free edge, with the help of a caulk, the insulation is placed in the interventional seam so that the free edges hang down by 5 cm. This fills the entire length of the seam.
3. After the seam is completely filled, the tape is cut off from the roll.
4. The rest of the insulation is driven into large gaps between the logs. The insulated seam must have the same thickness and protrude 3 mm beyond the edges of the grooves.

To the set

Caulking in the set allows you to insulate wide and deep gaps between logs. It uses a larger volume of material, respectively, and the quality of thermal insulation is higher. Tow, hemp rope or jute cord is suitable for this.

1. To caulk a log house with jute (the easiest option for beginners), a small amount of material is unwound and folded into loops. Next, each loop fits into the seam with a caulk.
2. Stitching begins at the top of the seam and then continues at the bottom.
3. On top of the laid insulation, an additional strand is applied for better insulation. The material is leveled along the entire length of the seam with the help of a road builder.

If desired, the insulation of the house in this way can be accelerated. In this case, the driving of the heat-insulating material is carried out using a perforator. The tool is used at low speed to prevent deformation of the seam. Also, a pneumatic hammer with a compressor is suitable for laying insulation.

Caulker corners

The corners in the log house are insulated after the completion of the main work.

To do this, it is better to use a roll insulation and a crooked caulk. The process is carried out as follows:

1. The free edge of the tape insulation is applied to the seam located in the corner and clogged with a crooked caulk.
2. After installing the material, its free edges are rolled up and hammered into the seam.
3. All work on laying insulation is carried out from top to bottom. For uniform driving, the material is gently stretched and straightened.

decorative caulking

If the main task of caulking is the thermal insulation of a wooden structure, then decorative caulking is used to decorate insulated interventional seams.

To give the seams of the log house an attractive and harmonious appearance, experts recommend using a rope and a rope made of jute or flax as a finish.

The rope is carefully fixed to the surface of the seam on galvanized nails without hats, driven into logs at a distance of 18 cm from each other. Decorative caulking is also suitable for hiding unevenly dried joints between the crowns and for additional insulation of the structure.

After the completion of the caulking process, the wooden house should be used as much as possible throughout the year. In winter, a check is made for the formation of new cracks and deformation of the laid insulation.

A year and a half after the first stage of caulking, the second stage is carried out. In this case, a thorough inspection of the structure is carried out, heat-insulating material is added where it has deformed or fallen out, as well as where new gaps or distortions of the log house have appeared.

Caulking a wooden house is an important and responsible event that requires a competent approach and compliance with all stages of the technological process. The quality of the work performed depends on the internal microclimate in the premises and the duration of the operation of the house.

One of the main measures for warming a bath from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking is a clogging of the gaps between the log crowns with environmentally friendly insulating materials. In this article, we are talking about how to make a log cabin caulk on your own and what materials and tools will be required for this.

• Article
• Video

The purpose of the log caulk

After all the crowns of the bath from the log house are laid, inserted and the roof is closed, it is necessary to proceed to the process. The log house has been insulated since ancient times, and this process has practically not changed until today. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we will talk about them a little later).

Caulking a log house is necessary for the following reasons:

• For well-insulated, it will take less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
• The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps are formed in the design of the bath, which will need to be hammered
• If heat comes out of the bath, condensation forms outside the log house, which will cause the log house to rot.
• A well-insulated sauna will require less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity) to heat.

As you can see, caulking a log house is a very serious and at the same time useful event.

When do you need to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year to shrink a log building. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the time of caulking a log house.

The first caulking of the log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and covering the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bathhouse partially shrinks (about a year later). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, in a year there will be a place for another warming of the bath in the interventional cracks.

Well, the last caulk of the log house should be carried out at the moment when the bath is completely seated, no later than after 5 years.

We draw your attention to the fact that do-it-yourself caulking of a log house must be carried out both from the outside of the bath and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bath can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it’s better not to fix it with the roof so that it doesn’t deform during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

To date, for caulking a log house with your own hands, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and lnovatin. Let's take a quick look at the benefits of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most experts prefer more modern materials.

The advantage of moss is that it is 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and at the same time has high durability.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Moss for caulking should not be too dry, but at the same time, it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for log caulking, but this material is not recommended. Firstly, caulking a log house with tow is a very laborious process. Secondly, tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can begin to rot, thereby damaging the crowns of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out a rotten tow from the interventional cracks, especially since repeated caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a delicacy for moths.

Jute is an environmentally friendly material of plant origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because. this material has the following advantages:

• The material has high strength
• Jute practically does not absorb water, and therefore does not rot.
• Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that often in construction stores instead of jute they offer an analogue - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because. this material has a share of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

The caulking of the log house with jute is carried out during the erection of the structure from the log house. The material is laid on top of the crowns and fastened with a construction stapler.

Lnovatin is also used for log caulking. This material consists of compacted linen dust, which is made in long ribbons. Lnovatin, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

sealant

Actively gaining popularity and special sealants for caulking a log house. They are most often used in conjunction with jute. There are different types of sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or flax, this will make the thermal insulation of the bath more effective.

To date, the following set of tools is used for caulking a log house with their own hands:

• caulking
• Curved caulk (requires skill to work, but more effective)
• Road worker (used with a caulk)
• Caulker (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
• Mallet (used to drive caulk into cracks)

It is recommended to use soft caulks (for example, made of wood), because. they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but with a few warmings you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Do-it-yourself log house caulking technology

Do-it-yourself caulking technology is quite complicated, although you can’t say this from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk evenly and correctly.

You should know that no finishing measures should be carried out before caulking the log house, because. during the lifting of the structure, they will immediately be damaged.

The correct caulking of the log house implies the warming of the interventional space in tiers (from the bottom to the top). First, we caulk the lowest joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done around the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is extremely forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because. the construction of the log house can noticeably warp.

It should be noted that experienced builders can level a skewed log house using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because. these nodes need it the most (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: “stretched” and “set”. The first method is used if the gaps between the crowns are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide gaps. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

For caulking a “stretched” log house, you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire gap. First, you need to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer it with a caulk or caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulating material, but it insulates the bathhouse from the log house with better quality. Caulking technology is different: a strand with a thickness of at least 15 mm is prepared. Next, the strands must be typed into loops and alternately hammer each loop into the gap (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer the strand with the help of a split caulk, knocking the material from above, and then from below. After the strand is completely crammed into the slots, it is recommended to make a final compaction using a road builder.

A log bath is a tradition that has not lost its relevance even after several hundred years. Wood has the highest level of thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of a log structure does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only conditional disadvantage of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.

When laying and fitting logs between individual elements, horizontal through-holes will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bath, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.

To learn how to properly caulk a bath, you need to understand all the intricacies of this case. The process of caulking cracks in itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that must be taken into account.

This article will describe step-by-step instructions and highlights on the topic - "how to caulk a bath with your own hands." In addition to describing the technology, it will also provide detailed information about how the bath is caulked, since in this case the correct choice of material plays a decisive role in the success of the entire process.

A selection of material

Forest moss is the most traditional material that our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking the log house. This is the most environmentally friendly material of all analogues used, as it is of natural origin, hand-picked and not processed with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - moths and mold do not start in it.

Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even under the influence of high humidity. At the same time, moss caulking is not only not subject to decay, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important.

Also, the use of moss as a material for caulking can significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in a nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite democratic. Natural moss is the most rational solution to the question, what is the best way to caulk a bath?

The most common material for caulking is a log house due to its cost, but linen has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bath with flax, it should be taken into account that there are practically no natural antiseptics in its composition - in connection with which, putrefactive bacteria, which wet wood contains in excess, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.

It quickly collapses under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles, in the raw state, mold and fungus start up quite quickly. Without chemical treatment for the next season of operation, you can find a large number of insect larvae in it.

Note!
Some of the shortcomings of this material can be leveled by chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bath.

Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bath?

Recently, the opinion of experts on the issue of what is better to caulk a log cabin of a bath? - Increasingly leans in favor of jute fiber, which has recently appeared on the domestic market.

And this is not without meaning - natural jute is a durable material containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water-repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.

Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and, accordingly, all its negative qualities are present.
To distinguish them from each other is quite simple - 100% jute has a gray color.

Caulker

In this process, there is practically nothing difficult - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet (wooden mallet) and a set of caulks. There are two technologies by which caulking of seams is made - stretched and set.

Stretching

• The insulation is pushed into the cavity with fibers across, this is done either by hand or with a caulk, depending on the width of the cavity. The material is hammered inward until about 4–5 cm of the edge of the insulation remains outside;
• Then, a roller of the appropriate diameter is made from the insulation, which is wrapped in the remaining edge, after which it is driven into the cavity with a caulking chisel;

In set

• For this method, the insulation must be twisted into strands like a rope, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the cavity between the frame;
• The finished strands are pushed into the slot by means of a caulking chisel - first the upper part is pushed through, and then the lower one. To align the seam, a road builder is used;

• During the caulking of cracks, the log house rises slightly, and therefore, it is necessary to clog each crack along the entire perimeter and only after that move on to the next level, otherwise the bathhouse may “skew”;
  
• If it is necessary to release it, so that the structure that has risen due to caulking does not damage the masonry.
  To do this, it is enough to free up space by a few centimeters;

Outcome

Caulking a log house in a bath is one of the simplest building processes

The correct selection of material and our helpful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulty. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.

Wooden log cabins are characterized by plasticity, a tendency to multiple changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The state of the log house is also affected by weather conditions, features of operation, the time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In this regard, the standards provide for primary, as well as repeated caulking.

Features and causes

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in a log house or log house. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. It is carried out by filling the gaps with special seals.

You can caulk after all construction (including roofing) work is completed, or during the assembly of walls.

Caulker allows you to solve a number of the following tasks:

• warming the room and (as a result) reducing the cost of heating the building from the inside;
• elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
• prevention of condensation on the walls as a result of the difference between the temperatures outside and inside the building;
• protection of wood from decay.

The first caulk is carried out immediately after the completion of roofing work, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that the wood shrinks completely.

It is necessary to carry out work in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more laborious, besides, the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and baths must be insulated from both sides, outbuildings can only be compacted from the outside.

materials

All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

natural

There are different natural materials, and all of them have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that the tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The basis of the material is linen fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which complicates styling. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, so it is easier to work with it. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to lay it in the slots, to replace the damaged area. After warming, the seam needs to be decorated, because it looks unaesthetic. Various microorganisms, moths can start in the tow.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss is used. When self-collecting, it is better to perform such work in late autumn, immediately sorting through the raw materials after collection (you need to remove the earth, litter, insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis of sheep wool; for a long time it was considered one of the best mezhventsovy heaters. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, sound insulation qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to keep moisture out. Long elastic fibers are easy to lay even in small gaps.

Among the shortcomings - exposure to moths, rotting. The addition of synthetic components to the felt makes it possible to level these shortcomings, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Lnovatin

Material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level rises, it absorbs excess moisture, and when it drops, it gives it away. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from decay.

Due to the composition of the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made on the basis of wood fibers of an exotic tree - jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water, and also provides antibacterial protection not only to the interventional gaps, but also to adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes rigid, dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with linen.

artificial

Among the materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

• Heaters based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in the form of ribbons. Among the most well-known manufacturers are Politerm (Finland) and Avaterm (Russia).

• PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, a feature of which is the ability to contract and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of wood.

• Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic are also used when caulking a log house, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in the logs, as well as to apply over artificial seals. A distinctive feature is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or shrinkage of wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for interventional seams is a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since there are no other waterproofing and vapor-permeable layers for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with the environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their abrupt change, as well as to UV rays.

If we are talking about warming the inside of the log house, then you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic, not emit hazardous compounds under the influence of high temperatures.

The biostability of the material is also an important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, does not become a home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Given the complexity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The heat efficiency of the sealant should be maintained for 15-20 years.

There are several options for insulation, as already mentioned. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, then it can be laid in the process of erecting a log house or at the end of construction work.

With internal insulation, thermal insulation of intervent gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the interventional seams, a wooden crate is stuffed onto the surface of the log house, the step of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, between the lags of the frame, a heater is attached, on top of it - sheets of drywall. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the finish. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the crate, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are done in relation to the surfaces of the lags.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic features. It is believed that a new, properly built log house needs only interventional insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disturb the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. Baths do not need insulation from the inside either, since an additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking, sealing of small cracks are carried out by "stretching", while re-insulation or elimination of wide cracks - by the "set-up" method.

Instruments

To carry out the procedure for warming interventional seams, the following materials and tools will be required:

• caulking- a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
• caulk- is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled easier and with better quality;
• flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - serves for laying a sealant in the corners, rounded parts of the log house;

• mallet- is a hammer made of wood, serves to clog the seal;
• road builder- a kind of caulking for the formation of even rollers from a twisted heat insulator;
• a hammer- they hit the mallet, driving the sealant into the interventional space;
• insulation.

The power tool, the puncher loses to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller from the material, but only drive it into the slot.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

• "Stretch". It is usually used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the log house. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The fibers of the insulation are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are folded into a flat roller, which is hammered into the seam.

• "Vnabor". The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves driving a small amount of insulation, the strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, with the help of a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the slot, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with a final seal. For this, a special tool is used - a road builder.

If you decide to caulk a house or a bath with your own hands, you should focus on the instructions. The step by step process looks like this:

• Cleaning the interventional gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
• Insulation preparation: roll material should be dissolved over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary, because in some areas the material can lie in a wave, and it should be enough for one tier.
• One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the slot with a mallet.
• Then the material is hammered into the slot with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is tight, there are no distortions.
• If a synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid during the assembly of logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the overhanging ends of the material on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, on top of it - a heater. So the work is carried out until the very last log cabin. When all work is completed, and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps with the help of a caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends to the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (primarily for moss), it is important to ensure that it evenly lays down on the surface of the logs. Their translucence through the insulation is unacceptable, otherwise the chopped house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, then it is rolled out along the crown and fixed with brackets. If the tape is over, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

Usually the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to last a good time, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventive maintenance. This is especially true for log buildings. One of the key points you need to know is how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or a house that was built from rounded logs or log cabins usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. Such a phenomenon with the fact that part of the moisture is lost and drying occurs. During the course of this process, loose abutments of the material may appear where everything previously seemed to be quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing gaps to prevent drafts, as well as reduce heat loss. Caulking should be carried out after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6-7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the process of compacting the log house as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to acquire not only a good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of ​​​​how to use them correctly. From the devices we need:

• Caulker. This is a small device that in appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Usually, at least two types are required for high-quality tasks. One of them is called a set. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can quickly go through large areas. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed during the sealing of the corner joints. Skillful craftsmen use a crooked tool that allows you to do the job much better, but requires special skill.
• material to fill gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
• A hammer. In this case, you can use any that is on the farm, but it is better if it is a small sledgehammer.

Some masters believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft, as a result, the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for himself.

moss

For these purposes, swamp red moss is used. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe in the best possible way. You can not lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, then this can lead to the fact that the joints will begin to rot and the structure will become unusable. But laying it dry is also not recommended. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before it is hammered, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is being prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After that, the moss is soaked and laid down to drain a little. To ease the formation of the roller, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some masters are not very fond of this fiber. The thing is, it's hard to work with. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remnants and do everything again. Before laying, it will need to be treated with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic, as well as repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and harm the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. It is a good odor filter. Additional synthetic inclusions began to be added to modern material, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that the moth loves to feast on felt. Before caulking, it is treated with special compounds that repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% linen and is a waste product. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the process of caulking.

One of the best materials. It not only perfectly fills the gaps, but also protects the interventional space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about pecking at it. It is made from lime wood. Usually it is imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such a caulk acts as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This is the modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

Which one to choose is the decision of each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as on the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it is better not to save on the material.

Technology

The process of sealing interventional seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

• Stretching. This type got its name due to the fact that the material is stretched along the entire seam and the fibers are intertwined. Usually it is used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so it makes no sense to fill them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. With the help of a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After that, the ends that remain hanging are tucked into a roller and tightly rammed into the seam.
• To the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more visible. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes out of them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the gaps are not the same everywhere.

After the spread of roll material, the process of sealing seams has been greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually carried out immediately when laying the logs. To do this, roll material is laid on the lunar recess and fixed with a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. There is no need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During primary sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are stacked. One should go next to the other, and the edges protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which is carried out at least six months later, is not the last. Approximately in 4-5 years, when the building sits completely, it will be necessary to process the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

• We clean the seams of debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can walk around with a vacuum cleaner to make your task easier.
• Caulking should be done side by side, not wall-to-wall. Those. you need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that there is no distortion and the building is not damaged.
• You should start from the outside, and then go inside the building.
• You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm longer than the length of the wall. This is important, because in the process of compaction, folds are formed, for which this reserve will go.
• Now it is important to gently tuck one of the edges of the tape into the slot to fix it.
• Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a seal. To do this, raise the hanging end, tuck it in and knock it out. This operation must be completed in several passes. You should not try to score everything at once, as this can cause distortion faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough not to let air in from the street.
• We repeat the operation from the inside.
• We move from the lower (collar) crown to the upper one. Perhaps, in the upper part, it will be enough just to gently tuck the material without much effort so as not to prevent further shrinkage.

You have to be careful not to overdo the layer. During caulking, the log house rises. Making the underlay too thick can cause the rise to exceed the size of a single log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not withstand and the bars will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. For this, a special lace of a suitable diameter is purchased. It is usually made from synthetic materials. Without effort, he fits into the seam to cover the gap. After that, the mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days, you will have to curtain the seams from the sunny side, because. usually the manufacturer advises to avoid direct sunlight until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after the application of natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, it will be possible to use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate the caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants: