Do-it-yourself garden composter from a barrel. Miracle helper - composting barrel (compost barrel)

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
• the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
• the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

To the question How to make the right compost? At the cottage for compost, I just dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct? given by the author Nikolai Buyny the best answer is Very bad.
How to make compost
Install a composting device (see below) in a designated area in the garden.
Lay down approx. 20 cm of "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to compost, alternating evenly: shredded dry "brown" materials (tree and shrub branches, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing "green" materials (kitchen waste, cut grass, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EM effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil, etc.). Plants rich in useful substances significantly improve the quality of compost: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots and not flowers!) and others. The alternation of "green" and "brown" layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and later - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents, this will disrupt the air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and you can add waste to the container. When the compost bin has already been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
Stir and shovel the compost from time to time with a pitchfork for better air access and uniform compost moisture. Keep the maturing compost in the box moist by watering. However, avoid standing water in the compost bin. The unpleasant smell of ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates excess "green" materials and a lack of oxygen. Add "brown" waste to the composter and stir the mixture.

Answer from Maria[guru]
Could be so.

Answer from Lily Viruina[newbie]
It is better to fence off the place, put a wooden pallet on the ground, put waste on it all summer long, but do not forget to water this business. If not laziness - turn several times per season, that's all)

Answer from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
why did you have to dig in? what would also rot?

Answer from Olga[guru]
And how to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up on a wheelbarrow while one pile ripens under a black film, the other is filled

Answer from Elena Orlova[guru]
I have a barrel is just at the fence. so I fill it full, and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy and they won’t drag it away, but if they want it, they will turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier then to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then to the ridges. and it’s inconvenient to scoop out of the barrel with a shovel if especially less than half of the compost remains,

Answer from Keymaster of Destiny[guru]
Not right. How to take out? I have a leaky trash can. Turned over and everything. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.

For a long time, summer residents have been using iron barrels from various fuels and lubricants as water collectors under the sewers of garden houses. Convenient volume, durable material and affordable price have made barrels an indispensable element of gardening.

Consider other possibilities of their application; perhaps some ideas will be unexpected for you and they will fall into your plans for the coming summer. Just remember that before using the barrel, you must either rinse it from the contents or set it on fire from the inside to burn the remaining fuel and lubricants on the walls.

Barrels - a container for burning.

This method of using barrels has been known to gardeners for a long time. In the most hidden, wind-protected part of the garden, an iron barrel with a sawn off top (lid) is placed on a non-combustible base. The base can be a platform of several paving slabs or just the ground with the top layer of turf removed. At the bottom of the barrel, it is necessary to drill several holes for oxygen to enter.

Gradually, the barrel is filled with combustible waste from the gardener's activities, such as paper, cardboard, dry branches, and the remains of building materials. Periodically, the contents of the barrel are set on fire and burn out very quickly, since the holes in the lower part create good traction for the fire. In addition, this method of burning is safe compared to an open fire - the wind does not scatter burning debris around the site, and you can extinguish the fire simply by filling it with a bucket of water and closing the lid. The ash that accumulates in the barrel will also benefit the gardener, as it is an excellent fertilizer for plants.

Of course, the walls of the barrel burn out over time and it needs to be replaced, but it is quite enough for 5-6 seasons (depending on the thickness of the walls and the frequency of burning garbage).

Iron barrel compost bin

To organize the compost, it is necessary to ensure the supply of oxygen to the contents, for which it is necessary to drill holes around the entire circumference and in the bottom of the barrel. The more holes, the better the compost will "breathe". Before laying plant residues, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer of branches or twigs at the bottom of the barrel. Be sure to provide a cover for the compost - it can be made from the remains of metal tiles or ordinary boards. The maturation of compost in such a container occurs at an accelerated pace; in a year it will be ready for use, you just need to mix it from time to time with a pitchfork.

Since in this case the barrel will not be subject to temperatures, it can be painted on the outside with paints, enamel or otherwise give it a decorative look.

Mobile beds from iron barrels

Preparing a barrel for a mobile ridge is the same as when organizing a composter. In such ridges, you can plant zucchini and cucumbers; moreover, this can be done directly on the compost, adding a layer of fertile soil 20-30 cm from above.

Such a ridge is convenient because the sprawling foliage of planted crops does not take up space in the beds, but hangs down and wraps around the barrel. In addition, if the garden is still at the beginning of development and there are no prepared beds, barrels can serve as a temporary option that is easy to move and change as the site is arranged.

A simple option for organizing an outdoor oven for cooking in a cauldron. For her, it is better to use a small metal oven with a volume of 60 liters. Cut off the lid of the barrel; drill holes along the upper and lower belts, cut a door for laying firewood on one side. When buying a cauldron, take into account the diameter of the furnace so that it is firmly installed on top.

Such an oven is good because it has a low cost, simple manufacture and it is absolutely unattractive to garden thieves.

Brazier with iron barrel lid

The next stage in the evolution of the iron barrel is the brazier with a lid. It differs from all previous options in that the lid of the barrel remains in place; the barrel itself is sawn lengthwise into two parts. One of the parts serves as a base for laying coals and installing a grate or skewers, and the second part is a lid connected to the base using ordinary door hinges. As a base for the brazier, you can use an X-shaped structure made of non-combustible materials - iron pipes or fittings.

The brazier is convenient in that it can be built into, for example, a gazebo and the contents are protected by a lid from precipitation.

Outdoor and home furniture made of iron barrels

Barrel furniture is very diverse. A novice master will choose a simpler option for himself, for example, a bar table from a barrel with a round top. The tabletop can be made independently, taking large wooden coils for power lines as a sample, or you can order a solid one from solid wood.

An experienced craftsman with a good set of tools may well take on a set of patio furniture - sofas and armchairs, or make an original bar cabinet.

Craftsmen without tools and skills, but with a talent for drawing, can make an original cabinet out of a barrel, painting it in the manner of an old forged chest. The color and complexity of the product will be given by the handles and fasteners made of metal screwed to it.

Outcome

If at your dacha an iron barrel is found in another use that has eluded us, take a picture and write about it. Maybe your idea will inspire other summer residents to be creative and will become a classic of the garden genre!

In order to make a compost barrel with your own hands, you needed:

two 200 l plastic drums, a metal pipe (of such a diameter that it does not bend under the weight of the drums), a PVC pipe, 4 door curtains, 2 latches, M12 bolts and nuts, wooden beams 6x6 cm, and rails 6x4 cm .

Installation of a "compost barrel"

In the barrel in the middle of the side with an electric jigsaw, I cut out a 36 × 28 cm window for loading raw materials. From the inside, I screwed a strip of metal to one of the long sides (photo 1) - this is a stopper so that the door does not fall into the container.

I fixed the cut-out piece on the curtains (opposite the metal strip), attached a handle to it (photo 2). I added two latches that hold the lid closed. Over the entire surface of the container with a drill, I drilled chains of holes d 12 mm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. I inserted M 12 bolts 10 cm long (photo Z) (possibly longer) into about half of the holes made and fastened them with nuts so that the ends stick out into the container. In the same way prepared the second barrel.

A piece of PVC pipe should be put on the metal pipe so as not to damage the edges of the barrels during rotation.

At the ends of the containers, I drilled holes in the center and inserted a pipe, which I fixed horizontally on a wooden T-shaped base 110 cm high from beams and slats into pre-drilled holes of a suitable diameter.

Loading compost into a homemade barrel

For compost I use chicken manure, straw and some soil (you can use dry leaves, grass mowed in the area, chopped eggshells, food waste) - I load them into barrels and moisten them with water.

I rotate the drums every three days - the pins loosen remarkably and mix the biomass, which gradually decomposes under the influence of heat and moisture. With the usual method of composting in boxes knocked down from the boards, "ripening" takes from 6 to 9 months, and in my device it takes 1-1.5 months.

DIY compost bin - photo

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In suburban areas, a compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is an organic fertilizer of exceptional quality, which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace expensive manure, mineral fertilizers or specially imported fertile soil. In addition, by collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage, and the area around it.

The compost heap or waste compost bins are usually placed in a place that is sufficiently secluded on the site so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. However, they should always be, as they say, at hand. In the "classic" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bunker, the process of laying waste is underway, in the other, the compost is ripening, in the third, the finished fertilizer is waiting for export to the beds. Regarding the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in various reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal flow of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to annually shovel the contents of the heaps to aerate the ripening compost, that is, to speed up the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.

However, the composting technology in the garden plot has been constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the composting process has been accelerated by 2 ... 3 times. So, in order to maintain moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost began to be covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the Tamir preparation. Yes, and the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all necessary to follow the fairly strict recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So in our time, a compost heap can be made quite small or, for this purpose, waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of only 1 m 3, having built it, for example, from boards.

However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of progress", we will not build anything. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit. First, to ensure air access to the compostable mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make a dozen two or three holes, which, for example, will be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm or we will break through with some kind of punch (Fig. 1). We will place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cm from the base of the barrel. No insulating gaskets between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel with dark paint, due to which, under the sun, the walls of the barrel will heat up more, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, understandably, will speed up the composting process.

Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2 ... 3 such compost barrels around the site, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, the individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.

So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer of them 15 ... 20 cm thick. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or substances rich in nitrogen). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash is poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. We cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a string. And so that the prepared compost does not dry out, it is poured with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moisturizing the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but the compost mass should not be heavily waterlogged. The mass corresponding to the squeezed sponge in terms of humidity is considered normal. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.

To "automatically" maintain the specified humidity in the striker, plant zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber in the barrel. In this case, the plastic film is no longer needed. Watering the mentioned plants provides the necessary humidity of the composted mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.

Experience has shown that in such a construction of a compost bin - an old barrel, the composting process is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classic version. It is not required, and shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg excellent fertilizer.

Rice. one. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- earth; 6- polyethylene.

Gusev V. An old barrel instead of a compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If a wooden composting box is equipped on the site, then sooner or later the bottom will rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then the nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in its pure form, but is always mixed with soil.

A barrel compost pit is easier to make than concrete storage, although concrete is also a very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

You can wrap the walls and bottom with mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. The hatch will serve as a plastic cover, which is sold in the kit.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden bars. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, a PVC pipe is put on the metal - it is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

• Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

• On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

• The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the bed and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter layer of soil, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be bought at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.

In suburban areas, a compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is an organic fertilizer of exceptional quality, which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace expensive manure, mineral fertilizers or specially imported fertile soil. In addition, by collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage, and the area around it.

The compost heap or waste compost bins are usually placed in a place that is sufficiently secluded on the site so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. However, they should always be, as they say, at hand. In the "classic" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bunker, the process of laying waste is underway, in the other, the compost is ripening, in the third, the finished fertilizer is waiting for export to the beds. Regarding the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in various reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal flow of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to annually shovel the contents of the heaps to aerate the ripening compost, that is, to speed up the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.

However, the composting technology in the garden plot has been constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the composting process has been accelerated by 2 ... 3 times. So, in order to maintain moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost began to be covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the Tamir preparation. Yes, and the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all necessary to follow the fairly strict recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So in our time, a compost heap can be made quite small or, for this purpose, waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of only 1 m 3, having built it, for example, from boards.

However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of progress", we will not build anything. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit. First, to ensure air access to the compostable mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make a dozen two or three holes, which, for example, will be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm or we will break through with some kind of punch (Fig. 1). We will place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cm from the base of the barrel. No insulating gaskets between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel with dark paint, due to which, under the sun, the walls of the barrel will heat up more, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, understandably, will speed up the composting process.

Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2 ... 3 such compost barrels around the site, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, the individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.

So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer of them 15 ... 20 cm thick. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or substances rich in nitrogen). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash is poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. We cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a string. And so that the prepared compost does not dry out, it is poured with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moisturizing the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but the compost mass should not be heavily waterlogged. The mass corresponding to the squeezed sponge in terms of humidity is considered normal. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.

To "automatically" maintain the specified humidity in the striker, plant zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber in the barrel. In this case, the plastic film is no longer needed. Watering the mentioned plants provides the necessary humidity of the composted mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.

Experience has shown that in such a construction of a compost bin - an old barrel, the composting process is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classic version. It is not required, and shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg excellent fertilizer.

Rice. one. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- earth; 6- polyethylene.

Gusev V. An old barrel instead of a compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

How to make the right compost? At the cottage for compost, I just dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct? and got the best answer

Answer from Yatiana Vedenina[guru]
Very bad.
How to make compost
Install a composting device (see below) in a designated area in the garden.
Lay down approx. 20 cm of "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to compost, alternating evenly: shredded dry "brown" materials (tree and shrub branches, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing "green" materials (kitchen waste, cut grass, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EM effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil, etc.). Plants rich in useful substances significantly improve the quality of compost: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots and not flowers!) and others. The alternation of "green" and "brown" layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and later - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents, this will disrupt the air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and you can add waste to the container. When the compost bin has already been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
Stir and shovel the compost from time to time with a pitchfork for better air access and uniform compost moisture. Keep the maturing compost in the box moist by watering. However, avoid standing water in the compost bin. The unpleasant smell of ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates excess "green" materials and a lack of oxygen. Add "brown" waste to the composter and stir the mixture.

Answer from Maria[guru]
Could be so.

Answer from Lily Viruina[newbie]
It is better to fence off the place, put a wooden pallet on the ground, put waste on it all summer long, but do not forget to water this business. If not laziness - turn several times per season, that's all)

Answer from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
why did you have to dig in? what would also rot?

Answer from Olga[guru]
And how to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up on a wheelbarrow while one pile ripens under a black film, the other is filled

Answer from Elena Orlova[guru]
I have a barrel is just at the fence. so I fill it full, and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy and they won’t drag it away, but if they want it, they will turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier then to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then to the ridges. and it’s inconvenient to scoop out of the barrel with a shovel if especially less than half of the compost remains,

Answer from Keymaster of Destiny[guru]
Not right. How to take out? I have a leaky trash can. Turned over and everything. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.

Answer from Alla Tarasova[guru]
No, it's wrong. There must be necessarily access to air and rainwater, and without stagnation at the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, instead of composting, rotting occurs, which will result in substances harmful to the soil (acids, etc.)

Answer from Yatyana Vasilievna[guru]
The barrel should be without a bottom, and it is not necessary to dig it in.

Answer from Alla Lebedeva[guru]
I have one container dug in, and next to it is a prefabricated plastic composter - I specially bought it.

Answer from Tatiana M[guru]
Compost heap. DIY organic fertilizer (video)

Answer from 2 answers[guru]

Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: How to make the right compost? At the cottage for compost, I just dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct?

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If a wooden composting box is equipped on the site, then sooner or later the bottom will rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then the nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in its pure form, but is always mixed with soil.

A barrel compost pit is easier to make than concrete storage, although concrete is also a very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

You can wrap the walls and bottom with mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. The hatch will serve as a plastic cover, which is sold in the kit.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden bars. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, a PVC pipe is put on the metal - it is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

• Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

• On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

• The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the bed and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter layer of soil, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be bought at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.