Combined insulation. Various ways to insulate a frame house with your own hands

One of the most wonderful options for owning a home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and, moreover, quite economical in construction. However, the matter is not limited to construction. It is necessary to make a good finish to warm the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is caused, first of all, by its design.

How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. For this, there are a variety of materials. Best suited for this activity:

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

1. Insulation is best chosen from environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
2. It must be resistant to the accumulation of moisture, as well as to fire.
3. Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
4. The ratio in the insulation of quality and price.
5. Fire safety.
6. Low thermal conductivity.
7. Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They may be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

1. Thermal insulation using board materials (foam, mineral wool, and so on).
2. Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with the use of mounting foam.
3. Sleep technology. In this case, the insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other backfill materials.
4. Combinations may also be used. Such a scheme can often be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic is outside, and then plaster.

The order of external insulation work

When carrying out work, the exact technology of insulation plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive final result of warming should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

1. Hinged way of warming. In this case, a frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing directly to the surface. It can be pasted and painted. When painting waterproofing, the walls after the primer are subjected to the application of bitumen. In the pasting option, using bituminous mastic, waterproofing roll material, isol, waterproofing, fiberglass is attached. Then, in the cells of the frame, using special glue, or mounting dowels, tapes or plates of rolled insulation are attached.

   

   At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is trimmed with decorative plates or panels. As a result, it is possible to perform fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

   

   Styrofoam - the cheapest wall insulation

   The main advantage of hinged insulation is a ventilation system that eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.

2. Wet insulation method. This method belongs to cheap, but at the same time, to rather laborious methods. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then decorative plaster is laid on it. This coating is also called "light" plaster.
3. There is also a "heavy" plaster. It will be more difficult, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the “easy” one. It is performed as follows - insulation boards are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.

   

   Insulation of the house with fiberboard slabs

   Then comes the first layer of plaster. During the day it dries, and deformation seams are made. Next comes the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which there must be temperature-shrinkage seams. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied five days later.

4. Spraying liquid insulation. This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. The peculiarity is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to average heaters. After polyurethane foam, almost any coating can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.



The insulation is applied by spraying

5. Facing method. This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing materials can be performed on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, however, it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.

• when performing work, it is important to strictly observe the insulation scheme.
• in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulation layer does not become damp and, accordingly, does not collapse.

Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Sheathing of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. You can perform insulation with reinforced plaster, then puttying and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

You can also use lining panels, MDF and plastic. The most common option is upholstery with drywall sheets, after which a decorative coating is applied.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all the bumps and defects. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to fire, but the main difficulty in applying it is that a special foam filling machine is needed.

Read about the features in the next article.

An attic is a room in the attic, specially equipped for any economic purposes (greenhouse, office, etc.) or for summer residence of people. The configuration of the attic depends on the layout and purpose of the building, as well as the type of roof. But the rules for warming from the inside for all types of attic are always the same.

Features of combined attic insulation

Everyone understands that the attic is always colder, because it does not have a “thermal cushion” on top. That is why self-made insulation must be of very high quality. Heaters are selected precisely according to these parameters.

There will be many difficulties, since there are few flat surfaces, because under the roof there are rafter beams that will need to be bypassed. Be sure to need a waterproofing layer so that there is somewhere to drain the condensate. The end walls of the attic, where windows are usually located, will also have to be insulated, since a lot of heat escapes through them.

Combined attic insulation with different materials

Each house has its own characteristics, the shape of the roof, the covering of the roof and walls. Therefore, it must be adapted specifically for this attic space. To choose the right material, you will have to take into account: climatic conditions, roof construction, roof quality, etc.

Here are the materials that can be used for insulation:

• Styrofoam. This is the cheapest and most popular insulation material. It is easy to install and process, only its vapor permeability is small and dampness may appear in the attic. In addition, the wooden rafters will dry out, so the gaps between the foam plastic and the tree will become larger and drafts will “walk” in the attic, and mice also love to hide in the foam plastic.
• Styrofoam. Block masonry has no joints and mice do not like it.
• Mineral wool. Basalt mineral wool has many positive qualities - water resistance, strength, retains heat, does not burn. Mineral wool is also elastic, and fits perfectly between the rafters. Glass wool is a good durable sound insulator and is not afraid of frosty weather.

If the climatic conditions are harsh, with low temperatures and strong winds, then combined insulation would be the best option. First, mineral wool is laid between the rafters, and only then a continuous layer of polystyrene foam plates is made, which closes the rafters.

How to properly insulate a roof

Waterproofing is primarily laid along the rafters, from the roof ridge to the very bottom. But if the roof is covered with roofing iron, waterproofing is not necessary. When installing a heater, you need to know what its thermal conductivity is. This can be found on the Internet, and in the Certificate upon purchase. Thanks to this, it turns out whether to put one layer of insulation or two.

During the installation of insulation, one must not forget that the material should not be close to the roof. The air gap is needed for good ventilation so that the rafters do not rot from dampness.

Attic roof insulation according to the scheme

If the roof is covered with corrugated material (tiles, metal tiles), then the thickness of the air gap is made at least 25 mm. When the roof is covered with steel sheets, asbestos cement or rolled materials, the air gap should be more than 5 cm.

If the thickness of the rafters and polystyrene foam plates is different, do so. If the plates are thin, one layer is placed between the rafters, and the rafters are already covered with the second layer of plates. If the thickness of the plates is large, then wooden slats of the required thickness are stuffed onto the rafters so that the plates cover the rafters.

Keep the insulation from moisture with the help of a vapor barrier. To do this, use: roofing material, foil, polyethylene, glassine. A vapor barrier is overlapped, and the edges are fixed with tape or thin wooden slats.

A few words about wall insulation

If the attic has walls (the roof does not reach the floor), then they are insulated according to all the rules. Laths are attached to the walls in order to lay a waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier layer. Then the walls are trimmed with fiberboard sheets, and they are fastened with screws or nails.

Combined attic insulation perfectly saves heat in the house.

The choice of insulation is a serious matter, especially when it comes to the ceiling of a private house. What materials are suitable for this: cheap or high-quality? This question worries everyone who decides to choose a heater for the ceiling.

Important. The issue of such thermal insulation is also relevant for owners of apartments on the top floors of high-rise buildings. In this case, we have to talk only about internal insulation.

Despite the huge number of different thermal insulation materials, not all are suitable for the ceiling. First, decide on which side you will insulate. The choice will have to be made from 6 relevant materials:

• mineral wool insulation (internal and external insulation);
• rolled foil heaters (internal insulation);
• expanded clay (only external insulation, from the side of the attic);
• polystyrene / foam plastic (external insulation);
• polyurethane foam (optimally from the side of the attic);
• aerated concrete tiles (from the inside).

The insulation familiar to many has a lot of advantages - low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation, almost neutral reaction to most chemical compounds, high fire resistance, low shrinkage, good vapor permeability.

Such material is durable and easy to install (you will need an assistant). Despite the large list of advantages, mineral wool has several disadvantages:

• it noticeably dusts and emits formaldehyde (though in negligible amounts);
• mineral wool absorbs water well, despite hydrophobic impregnations, so it is very important to carry out high-quality waterproofing of the insulation.

Mineral wool is produced in three positions - stone, basalt, slag wool. In addition to mats and slabs, it comes in the form of rolls, as well as in the form of foil rolled insulation, which allows you to combine it with other types of thermal insulation.

A bright representative of a thin foil insulation is foil isolon. It is a layer of foamed polyethylene and foil glued to it. Polyethylene in combination with other heaters (mineral wool) can act as a waterproofing, and the foil will repel heat, returning it to the room. Such a puff cake is a good solution for the ceiling of a private house (mineral wool is laid from the side of the attic, and foil isolon from the side of the living room).

One of the varieties of foil insulation for the ceiling is self-adhesive. They are easily mounted, and not only on the ceiling, but also on ventilation pipes and even under the hood of a car.

Natural material used to insulate the ceiling of a private house from the side of the attic. It is completely harmless to humans, light enough, but absorbs moisture well, after which it gains weight greatly. Therefore, its high-quality waterproofing is required. This is the cheapest insulation made from clay or shale.

Ease of installation (lay waterproofing, spread expanded clay, level and cover with another layer of waterproofing) and low cost make this insulation the best choice for people with low incomes.

Advice. Expanded clay weighs significantly more than mineral wool, and even more so polystyrene, so it is important to calculate the force of its pressure on the attic floor. The most successful option is the insulation of reinforced concrete floors with expanded clay. It is not recommended to pour expanded clay on hemmed wooden ceilings!

This material is suitable for insulating the ceiling from the attic side. It weighs a little, so it is relevant for a wooden false ceiling. The slabs (choose with a lock) are laid tightly together in the space between the beams on the pre-laid waterproofing.

Do not forget to remove all debris and treat the tree with an antiseptic! On top of the insulation layer, waterproofing is not required. On the logs, you can lay a draft floor.

Among the minuses of polystyrene / polystyrene foam is flammability and an almost complete lack of vapor permeability. But for the price, this material is one of the cheapest, so many opt for it.

It is not recommended to insulate a wooden house with polyurethane foam due to the complete lack of vapor permeability. However, in terms of positive characteristics, it has almost no equal:

• mice/rats won't start;
• mold does not settle;
• water, sounds, cold do not pass;
• sticks to absolutely any surface;
• does not require special preparation of the base (it is enough to remove debris and dust);
• service life when protected from ultraviolet radiation (and there is no UV at all in the attic) up to half a century.

Some disadvantages are present - high cost, fire hazard (burns with the release of toxic substances). You can significantly reduce the risk of accidental fire by using fireproof paint. If it is planned to place a place in the attic for drying herbs or storing equipment, you can make a subfloor.

The use of polyurethane foam excludes the use of other heaters, since its thermal conductivity is very low.

Such material is relevant not only for insulation from the inside of the ceiling of a private house, but also in the apartments of the last floors of high-rise buildings. Here you can’t insulate yourself from the outside, and the ease of installation and the low weight of aerated concrete are just a godsend for the owner.

Important. To work, you will need glue, for example, the same as for foam / polystyrene foam, a spatula and grout for joints. Self-adhesive foil thermal insulation can be glued on top of the finished material layer.

In regions with a harsh climate, ceiling insulation on the one hand is often not enough. If the height of the living space is standard (2.5 meters), then the way out is to use rolled foil thermal insulation from the inside.

In this case, the combined insulation of the ceiling of a private house may consist of mineral wool, expanded clay or foam plastic from the side of the attic and, for example, self-adhesive foil isolon from the side of the living room. The resulting layer cake of insulation, on the one hand, will prevent cold air from entering the house, on the other hand, the foil will repel heat radiation back into the room. In this way, a suitable balance will be achieved between the insulation and the existing heating system in the house.

How to choose ceiling insulation? The answer to the question is simple: analyze how much finance you are willing to spend on insulation, will the work be carried out independently or with the help of specialists, is one layer of material enough or does it make sense to make combined thermal insulation using foil roll insulation? Having answered them, choosing the right thermal insulation from the ones listed above is not difficult.

One of the main components of comfortable living in the house is warmth. Unfortunately, due to poor thermal insulation, not all rooms maintain an optimal temperature for life, even if the heating system is working properly. Sometimes it is not enough to insulate a wall from the outside or from the inside:

• do not allow the technical characteristics of the building;
• such insulation schemes will not bring the desired result;
• additional thermal insulation of the finished house is carried out.

In these cases, it is effective to apply thermal insulation in two layers. For a house in which it will be comfortable to live at any time of the year, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 15 cm, the combination of different heaters gives a greater effect than the use of one. Application of technologies of internal and external warmings is possible.

Stages of combined wall insulation

Works on insulation in 2 layers are divided into several stages:

• installation of a waterproofing film;
• insulation installation;
• vapor barrier;
• decorative finish.

Additional thermal insulation of the house is always done from the outside. If you do this work indoors, then the outer wall will freeze, condensation will appear, and later mold and fungus.

What is the cost of the service and what does it depend on

Prices for turnkey combined thermal insulation services are determined by the financial costs for the purchase of materials and the complexity of the work performed at height. It is very difficult to independently cope with the installation of thermal insulation components and the choice of modern materials. You need to choose the right materials, know all the subtleties and technical aspects of installing the structure, and so on, so you can’t do without a specialist.

The owner of a private house or apartment has the right to choose which of the methods of insulation is optimal for him, but still it is better to consult a specialist in this matter. A professional will tell you exactly which method to choose, which thermal insulation materials are better to use. Doing work on your own is not always possible, apartments can be located on the upper floors. Without special climbing equipment it is simply impossible to carry out any work. It will also take a lot of time and effort to search for specialists, and it is possible to get a quality guarantee only in words.

In such a situation, Yuda's website will help out, where you can very quickly find a real proven professional.

How to take advantage of the offer from Yudu

You can order a turnkey combined insulation service very quickly, for this you just need:

• leave an application on the site, which indicate the desired amount that the user is willing to pay, all the nuances and difficulties of the work, the floor of the building, etc .;
• choose a specialist from the list of responders;
• get acquainted with the wizard's work with the help of reviews left by other users.

All data about the performers that are on the site are reliable, as they are constantly checked and updated by Yudu managers.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to heat-insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

outdoor	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, so the interior of the rooms does not suffer during construction work.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform a fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
The wooden wall, which is in direct contact with the warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the air temperature drops outside, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can be resorted to only when insulating a very old house: the insulation material installed from the inside will allow you to avoid dismantling the exterior finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. I have encountered situations several times when even proper internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter colds. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit a large amount of smoke during a fire, making it difficult for people to evacuate.
3. It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for central Russia, an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional battens, fittings and the use of "wet" building processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

• OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
• wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
• hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
• internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
• block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
• eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

1. I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, so pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

1. I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating a new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

1. I install engineering communications. If a hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before the walls are sewn with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:

• All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
• When installing water pipes inside the wall, there should be no detachable connections, which over time can loosen and leak.

1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

1. I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
   • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
   • Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
   • Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
   • The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

1. Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
   • The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
   • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
   • To seal the seams inside the overlap, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

1. I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

1. I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

1. Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:

• It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
• Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
• After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

1. Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

1. I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

1. A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
   • Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
   • Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
   • Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

1. I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer lining and drafts blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
2. I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

1. I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, you can not use OSB boards at all, but mount the lamellas on a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat energy loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
2. Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
3. Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
4. Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
5. Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

• the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
• a tongue-and-groove board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
• if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate material on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!