How to make a wind generator with your own hands. Do-it-yourself windmills for home - which model is the most suitable? Progress of design work

wind farms- This is the most alternative option for saving electrical energy today.

Very often, such installations can be found in suburban areas.

People use them in places where suburban areas are remote from the main electrical networks. But this is not the only reason. Most people use wind farms for economy and autonomy.

Wind farms have their own characteristics that potential buyers need to know, and how productivity depends on their competence.

The main incentive to purchase a wind generator- this is undoubtedly its expediency. One of the main criteria for achieving this goal is the requirements for the wind. It is known that the average annual wind speed is about 4.0-4.5 m / s, this indicator is more than enough for a home wind farm to be profitable in use, that is, it makes it possible to save electricity.

In order to estimate the wind speed in your area, you can use the wind map. If you have a desire to measure the wind speed with maximum accuracy, you should purchase a special device that will help you with this.

This invention includes a part called an anemometer. With it, you receive a signal equivalent to the speed of the wind. Also, you will need a device that reads the signals that the anemometer gives. There are other devices of this type.

In order for the data to be as accurate as possible, such devices must be installed high so that external factors such as trees, various buildings, etc., do not distort the results of the device.

Device Components

It is very important when buying a home wind farm to know its components, this will give you the opportunity to be more competent in this matter and choose the best model for your home.

The wind farm includes:

  1. Rotor with blades(depending on the model, wind turbines are divided into two-blade, three-blade and multi-blade).
  2. The gearbox, in other words, the gearbox. Its task is to regulate the speed between the rotor and the generator.
  3. Protective cover- its name speaks for itself, it is designed to protect all the components of the wind farm from external influences.
  4. "Tail" of the wind turbine- needed to rotate the structure in the direction of the wind.
  5. Accumulator battery Its main purpose is to store electricity. This is due to the fact that weather conditions are not always favorable for a wind farm, and with the help of this component, a certain amount of energy is stored.
  6. inverter installation- designed to convert direct current to alternating current. This is necessary to ensure the operation of household electrical appliances.


Types and principle of operation

Wind farms are divided into types according to the following four criteria:

  1. In the direction of the axis of rotation of the blades(divided into horizontal and vertical. Vertical ones are more resistant to external conditions, but they have less electricity generation).
  2. By number of blades(in this case, wind turbines are two-, three- and multi-bladed).
  3. According to the material used(they are distinguished with rigid and sail blades. The main difference is that sail blades are cheaper, but they are less durable);
  4. Blade control method(there are fixed and variable pitch blades. Experts recommend a fixed pitch blades, as variable causes difficulty in use).

When choosing a power plant, it would be advisable to know what the principle of operation of a wind generator is. The principle of operation of the installation is extremely simple. The design consists of a shank with blades mounted on a metal mast, which rotate with the help of the wind and turn the generator rotor.

Before supplying current to the battery compartment, it passes through a converter, where it converts AC to DC to a voltage of 220 volts at a frequency of 50 hertz and supplies the house with electricity in calm weather.

A modern wind generator does not need a strong wind. Its design is so well thought out that for a private house a wind speed of up to 4 - 5 m / s is enough.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of wind turbines:

  1. The costs are spent on the installation and maintenance of the device. More expenses are not required, since the structure does not need fuel to operate.
  2. You do not need to control and interfere with the operation of the windmill, since power generation occurs whenever there is wind.
  3. Depending on the type of generator, it won't make any noise.
  4. The device is suitable for most climatic conditions.
  5. Part wear is negligible.

The main disadvantages of a wind farm:

  1. In certain modes or when the mast is incorrectly installed, the wind generator can emit infrasound.
  2. high mast necessarily requires grounding.
  3. The need for regular preventive maintenance.
  4. Probability of fixture damage during hurricanes, etc.

Choice of size and placement

The size of a wind farm is a very important issue for potential buyers. In order to determine the size, you need to carefully study - how much energy do you consume in one month? The resulting figure must be multiplied by 12 months.

Then, you need to use the formula: AEO = 1.64 * D*D * V*V*V.

Notations that you need to know when using the formula:

  1. AEO- the electricity you use per year.
  2. D- rotor diameter, which is indicated in meters.
  3. V- the average annual wind speed, indicated in m / s.

Thus, these calculations will help determine what size generator you need, depending on your electricity consumption.

When thinking about purchasing a wind farm for your home, you need to study all the details associated with the design as accurately as possible, since it depends on how your goal will be satisfied.

When placing a wind turbine, you should consider the following factors:

  1. There should be no trees near your installation, various buildings and other things that could interfere with the maximum productivity of your generator.
  2. It is best to install a wind turbine on a specially constructed structure, which should be a couple of meters higher than obstacles located at a distance of at least 200 meters.
  3. It is recommended to place wind farms at a distance of about 30-40 meters from residential buildings, as they create a certain noise that brings discomfort.

Also, you should take into account that you will not be able to constantly get the same result from your wind farm, as the natural conditions change, there may be different gusts of wind in the same place, respectively, and the amount of energy you receive will be dynamic.

Price overview

In most cases, the price of wind farms depends on their capacity. In domestic conditions, generators with a power of 5 to 50 kW are quite enough.

More details about the ratio of prices and types of generators:

  1. Wind generators with a power of 3 kW / 48V– approximate cost 93 000.00 rub. Similar ones can be used not only as an additional source of power supply, but also as the main one. Such models are able to provide electricity to the cottage.
  2. Wind generators with a power of 5 kW / 120V– approximately 220,100.00 rubles. Such a design can provide energy to the whole house. You can simultaneously turn on a sufficiently large number of household electrical appliances.
  3. Wind generators with a power of 10 kW/240V- prices within 414,000.00 rubles. It is enough to provide energy for a farm or several houses. In addition to household appliances, you can easily use, for example, electrical construction tools all day. Such power generators are often used for supermarkets to ensure the continuous operation of departments and video surveillance.
  4. Wind generators with a power of 20 kW/240V- the price of such a device is 743,700.00 rubles. Power plants of this type are very powerful. They are able to provide electricity to the entire water pressure system. In domestic conditions, he will be able to more than fully provide energy to a huge house.
  5. Wind generators with a power of 30 kW/240V- cost within 961,800.00 rubles. This model is so powerful that it can provide electrical energy to a five-story house.
  6. Wind turbines with a power of 50 kW/380V- approximate price is about 3,107,000.00 rubles. This model is not rational for domestic use, as it is so powerful that it can more than provide energy for several multi-storey buildings.

When buying a home power plant, it is worth knowing that in most cases the prices are for the complete set, but you can add or exclude certain components yourself. This is subject to your personal discretion.

Efficiency and payback

Wind farms for the home are an alternative solution to save energy. They have become quite widespread.

In order to provide energy to the whole house, it is enough to use one wind generator and at the same time not limit yourself by saving on electricity.

It is also beneficial that to obtain such an effect, a minimum wind speed of 1.8 to 4.5 meters per second is sufficient.

But weather conditions are not always suitable for a wind turbine, so you need to purchase a backup generator that will provide power. This will give you the opportunity to increase the productivity of your home wind farm.

Among the positive aspects of the installation, it is worth noting the following:

  1. Spending a lot of money on a generator, you will no longer need to spend money, since the device does not need fuel to operate. That is, in a few years your purchase will be able to pay off.
  2. Wind generator performance does not depend on the season or other weather conditions, its operation does not stop even in winter, which is undoubtedly a plus, since in the winter season the energy consumption is higher than in others. This fact undoubtedly testifies to its effectiveness and payback.
  3. Generator parts wear is negligible, given the regular preventive maintenance of the wind turbine, which is necessary. With proper and competent installation, as well as operation of a wind farm for a home, it can serve you for more than thirty years, which is undoubtedly a significant plus.

The full payback period for wind farms is approximately 5-7 years, and then you can use electricity absolutely free.

With rising prices for electricity, there is a search and development of its alternative sources everywhere. In most regions of the country, it is advisable to use wind turbines. To fully provide electricity to a private house, a sufficiently powerful and expensive installation is required.

Wind generator for home

If you make a small wind generator, you can use electric current to heat water or use it for part of the lighting, such as outbuildings, garden paths and porches. Heating water for household needs or heating is the simplest option for using wind energy without its accumulation and conversion. Here the question is more about whether there will be enough power for heating.

Before you make a generator, you first need to find out the features of the winds in the region.

A large wind generator, for many places in the Russian climate, is not very suitable due to the frequent change in the intensity and direction of air flows. Above 1 kW, it will be inertial and will not be able to fully spin up when the wind changes. Inertia in the plane of rotation leads to overloads from the side wind, leading to its failure.

With the advent of low-power energy consumers, it makes sense to use small home-made wind generators of no more than 12 volts to illuminate the cottage with LED lamps or charge telephone batteries when there is no electricity in the house. When this is not necessary, the generator can be used to heat water.

Type of wind generator

For a windless area, only a sail wind generator is suitable. In order for the power supply to be constant, you will need a battery of at least 12V, a charger, an inverter, a stabilizer and a rectifier.

For low-wind areas, you can independently make a vertical wind generator with a power of no more than 2-3 kW. There are many options and they are almost as good as industrial designs. It is advisable to buy windmills with a sailing rotor. Reliable models with power from 1 to 100 kilowatts are produced in Taganrog.

In windy regions, you can make a vertical generator for your home with your own hands, if the required power is 0.5-1.5 kilowatts. The blades can be made from improvised means, for example, from a barrel. It is advisable to buy more productive devices. The cheapest are "sailboats". A vertical windmill is more expensive, but it works more reliably in strong winds.

DIY low-power windmill

At home, a small homemade wind generator is easy to make. To start working in the field of creating alternative energy sources and gaining valuable experience in this how to assemble a generator, you can make a simple device yourself by adapting a motor from a computer or printer.

12V wind generator with horizontal axis

To make a low-power windmill with your own hands, you must first prepare drawings or sketches.

At a rotation speed of 200-300 rpm. the voltage can be raised to 12 volts, and the generated power will be about 3 watts. It can be used to charge a small battery. For other generators, the power must be increased to 1000 rpm. Only then will they be effective. But here you need a gearbox that creates significant resistance and also has a high cost.

Electrical part

To assemble the generator, you need the following components:

  1. a small motor from an old printer, drive or scanner;
  2. 8 diodes type 1N4007 for two rectifier bridges;
  3. capacitor with a capacity of 1000 microfarads;
  4. PVC pipe and plastic parts;
  5. aluminum plates.

The figure below shows the generator circuit.

Stepper motor: connection diagram to the rectifier and stabilizer

Diode bridges are connected to each motor winding, of which there are two. After the bridges, the LM7805 stabilizer is connected. As a result, the output is a voltage that is usually supplied to a 12-volt battery.

Neodymium magnet power generators with extremely high adhesive force have gained great popularity. They should be used carefully. With a strong impact or heating to a temperature of 80-250 0 C (depending on the type), neodymium magnets demagnetize.

You can take the hub of a car as the basis for a do-it-yourself generator.

Rotor with neodymium magnets

About 20 neodymium magnets with a diameter of about 25 mm are glued onto the hub with superglue. Single-phase power generators are made with an equal number of poles and magnets.

Magnets located opposite each other must be attracted, i.e. turned by opposite poles. After gluing neodymium magnets, they are filled with epoxy resin.

Coils are wound round, and the total number of turns is 1000-1200. The power of the generator on neodymium magnets is selected so that it can be used as a source of direct current, about 6A to charge the battery at 12 V.

Mechanical

The blades are made from plastic pipe. Workpieces 10 cm wide and 50 cm long are drawn on it, and then cut out. A bushing is made on the motor shaft with a flange to which the blades are attached with screws. Their number can be from two to four. Plastic will not last long, but for the first time it will be enough. Now enough wear-resistant materials have appeared, for example, carbon fiber and polypropylene. Stronger aluminum alloy blades can then be made.

The blades are balanced by cutting off excess parts at the ends, and the angle of inclination is created by heating them with a bend.

The generator is bolted to a piece of plastic pipe with a vertical axis welded to it. An aluminum alloy weather vane is also installed coaxially on the pipe. The axle is inserted into the vertical tube of the mast. A thrust bearing is installed between them. The whole structure can freely rotate in a horizontal plane.

The electrical board can be placed on a rotating part, and the voltage can be transmitted to the consumer through two slip rings with brushes. If the board with a rectifier is installed separately, then the number of rings will be six, how many pins a stepper motor has.

The windmill is mounted at a height of 5-8 m.

If the device will efficiently generate energy, it can be improved by making it vertically axial, for example, from a barrel. The design is less subject to lateral overloads than the horizontal one. The figure below shows a rotor with blades made from barrel fragments, mounted on an axis inside the frame and not subject to overturning force.

Wind turbine with a vertical axis and a barrel rotor

The profiled surface of the barrel creates additional rigidity, due to which thinner sheet metal can be used.

Wind generator with a capacity of more than 1 kilowatt

The device should bring tangible benefits and provide a voltage of 220 V so that you can turn on some electrical appliances. To do this, it must independently start and generate electricity in a wide range.

To make a wind generator with your own hands, you must first determine the design. It depends on how strong the wind is. If it is weak, then the sail version of the rotor may be the only option. More than 2-3 kilowatts of energy cannot be obtained here. In addition, it will need a gearbox and a powerful battery with a charger.

The price of all equipment is high, so you should find out if it will be beneficial for the house.

In areas with strong winds, a home-made wind generator can produce 1.5-5 kilowatts of power. Then it can be connected to a 220V home network. It is difficult to make a device with more power on your own.

Electric generator from a DC motor

As a generator, you can use a low-speed motor that generates electric current at 400-500 rpm: PIK8-6 / 2.5 36V 0.3Nm 1600min-1. Body length 143 mm, diameter 80 mm, shaft diameter 12 mm.

What does a DC motor look like?

It needs a multiplier with a gear ratio of 1:12. With one revolution of the windmill blades, the generator will make 12 revolutions. The figure below shows a diagram of the device.

Windmill device diagram

The gearbox creates an additional load, but still less than for a car alternator or starter, where a gear ratio of at least 1:25 is required.

It is advisable to make the blades from an aluminum sheet measuring 60x12x2. If you install 6 of them on the motor, the device will not be so fast and will not go haywire with large gusts of wind. It should be possible to balance. To do this, the blades are soldered to the bushings with the possibility of winding onto the rotor so that they can be moved further or closer to its center.

The power of a permanent magnet generator made of ferrite or steel does not exceed 0.5-0.7 kilowatts. It can be increased only on special neodymium magnets.

A generator with a non-magnetized stator is not suitable for operation. With a small wind, it stops, and after that it will not be able to start on its own.

Constant heating during the cold season requires a lot of energy, and heating a large house is a problem. For giving in this regard, it can come in handy when you have to go there no more than 1 time per week. If everything is weighed correctly, the heating system in the country works for only a few hours. The rest of the time the owners are in nature. Using a windmill as a source of direct current for charging the battery, in 1-2 weeks you can accumulate electricity for space heating for such a period of time, and thus create sufficient comfort for yourself.

To make a generator from an AC motor or a car starter, they need to be reworked. The motor can be upgraded to a generator if the rotor is made on neodymium magnets, machined to their thickness. It is made with the number of poles, like the stator, alternating with each other. The rotor on neodymium magnets glued to its surface should not stick during rotation.

Types of rotors

Rotor designs vary. Common options are shown in the figure below, where the values ​​​​of the wind energy utilization factor (KIEV) are indicated.

Types and designs of wind turbine rotors

For rotation, windmills are made with a vertical or horizontal axis. The vertical version has the advantage of ease of maintenance when the main nodes are located at the bottom. The thrust bearing is self-aligning and has a long service life.

The two blades of the Savonius rotor create jerks, which is not very convenient. For this reason, it is made of two pairs of blades spaced 2 levels apart with one rotated relative to the other by 90 0 . Barrels, buckets, pots can be used as blanks.

The Darrieus rotor, whose blades are made of elastic tape, is easy to manufacture. To facilitate promotion, their number should be odd. The movement is jerky, because of which the mechanical part quickly breaks. In addition, the tape vibrates as it rotates, making a roar. For permanent use, this design is not very suitable, although the blades are sometimes made of sound-absorbing materials.
In an orthogonal rotor, the wings are profiled. The optimal number of blades is three. The device is high-speed, but it must be untwisted at start-up.

The helicoid rotor has a high efficiency due to the complex curvature of the blades, which reduces losses. It is used less frequently than other windmills due to its high cost.

Horizontal bladed rotor design is the most efficient. But it requires a stable average wind, and it also needs hurricane protection. Blades can be made from propylene when their diameter is less than 1 m.

If you cut the blades from a thick-walled plastic pipe or barrel, you will not be able to achieve power above 200 watts. The segment profile is not suitable for compressible gaseous media. A complex profile is needed here.

The diameter of the rotor depends on how much power is required, as well as on the number of blades. A two-blade 10 W requires a rotor with a diameter of 1.16 m, and a 100 W - 6.34 m. For a four-blade and a six-blade, the diameter will be 4.5 m and 3.68 m, respectively.

If you put the rotor directly on the generator shaft, its bearing will not last long, since the load on all the blades is uneven. The support bearing for the windmill shaft must be self-aligning, with two or three tiers. Then the rotor shaft will not be afraid of bends and displacements during rotation.

An important role in the operation of the windmill is played by the current collector, which must be regularly maintained: lubricated, cleaned, adjusted. The possibility of its prevention should be provided, although this is difficult to do.

Security

Wind turbines with a power exceeding 100 W are noisy devices. In the courtyard of a private house, you can install an industrial wind turbine if it is certified. Its height should be higher than the nearest houses. Even a low-power windmill cannot be installed on the roof. Mechanical vibrations from its work can create resonance and lead to the destruction of the structure.

High rotational speeds of the wind generator require high-quality manufacturing. Otherwise, if the device is destroyed, there is a danger that its parts may fly off over long distances and cause injury to a person or pets. This should be especially taken into account when making a windmill with your own hands from improvised materials.

Video. Wind generator with your own hands.

The use of wind turbines is not advisable in all regions, since it depends on climatic features. In addition, it makes no sense to make them with your own hands without a certain experience and knowledge. To get started, you can take on the creation of a simple design with a power of several watts and a voltage of up to 12 volts with which you can charge your phone or light an energy-saving lamp. The use of neodymium magnets in the generator can significantly increase its power.

Powerful wind turbines, which take over a significant part of the power supply at home, are best purchased industrial, to create a voltage of 220V, while carefully weighing the pros and cons. If you combine them with other types of alternative energy sources, electricity can be enough for all household needs, including a home heating system.

Details Published: 06.11.2017 17:09

A step-by-step guide (as detailed as possible in the video) on how to make a windmill easily and cheaply was created by inventor Daniel Connell. The original instructions can be found on the website.

Description

The vertical axis wind turbine uses wind power to generate electricity from generators, and can also power air and water pumps for cooling, irrigation, and more.

The design of the Lentz2 turbine (named after the author - Ed Lenz) is 35-40% more efficient and can be built from improvised means, cheap materials and even scrap metal. The six-bladed version can be assembled by two people in about four hours with little effort, spending only $15-$30.

The wind generator with three blades has successfully passed the test in sustained wind speeds up to 80 km/h, and the six blades are excellent at winds up to 105 km/h. Of course, both options are capable of more, but it has not yet been possible to establish how much specifically. To date, the turbine, installed in early 2014, has been operating the longest, withstanding storms, while there are no visible signs of wear yet.

For this particular design, the power curves have not yet been fully calculated, but according to the data already available, six blades with a diameter of 0.93 meters and a height of 1.1 meters, paired with a high-efficiency alternator, should produce at least 135 watts of electricity at a wind speed of 30 km/h. h or 1.05 kW at 60 km/h.

Instruments

In order to assemble a wind turbine with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • Electric drill;
  • Metal drills (diameter 4/6/10 mm);
  • Utility knife or Stanley knife, metal shears (the former is better for cutting paper, the latter for aluminum sheets, so it's better to have both);
  • Aluminum corner (20x20 mm, about a meter in length, ± 30 cm);
  • Roulette;
  • Hand riveter;
  • Marker;
  • Scotch;
  • 4 clothespins;
  • Computer and printer (inexpensive black and white will do);
  • Impact wrench with 7 mm socket (optional).

materials

In addition to tools, of course, you will need the following materials:

  • 11 aluminum plates for offset printing;
  • 150 rivets (4 mm in diameter, 6-8 mm in length);
  • 18 M4 bolts (10-12 mm long) and the same number of nuts;
  • 24 small washers 4 mm (about 10 mm outer diameter);
  • 27 large washers 4 mm (about 20 mm outer diameter);
  • 27" bike wheel*;
  • 12 bicycle spokes (any length);
  • 2 steel strips (approximately 20x3x3 cm);
  • Bicycle rear wheel axle with three nuts (suitable for the wheel);
  • 3 M6 bolts with nuts (60 mm long);

*Because bicycle wheels have a complex classification of sizes, you will need one with an outer rim diameter of 63-64 cm. Of course, a 26-inch wheel can be used, but it is not so ideal. It should have a normal thick axle (about 9 mm) protruding at least 4 cm, 36 spokes and spin smoothly. If you're going to be working at a low RPM (for pumping water instead of generating electricity, for example), then a rear wheel with gears may be needed, but more on that later. It will not be superfluous to lubricate the bearings.

The materials listed in this example are for assembling a turbine with three blades. If you want to assemble a six-blade option, double everything except the bicycle wheel.

Template files

Management

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a vertical axis wind turbine:

Step 1:

Download and print the two template files from the links above. Make sure they are printed at 100% size (200 dpi). When printing, measure the distance between the size arrows, it should be 10 cm on both pages. If there is an error of a couple of mm, then this is not scary.

Pin the pages together so that the 10cm arrows are as close together as possible. It is best to do this in front of the light source so that you can see through both sheets. Using a utility knife and an aluminum corner that acts as a ruler, cut out the template along the outer borders. When cutting, make sure that your other hand is not in the way of the knife, so as not to cut yourself. In this regard, the corner perfectly protects the hand.

Step 2:

Take an aluminum plate and measure out a 42x48 cm rectangle. Draw a line down the middle so you have two 42x24 cm rectangles. Cut the outer lines with a Stanley knife without trying to cut all the way through the metal, it will be enough just to draw lines that will then allow you to separate the parts. For the best effect, you can walk lightly once, and a little harder the second time, with pressure. In this case, it is not necessary to cut a line drawn in the middle, at a mark of 24 cm.

Bend the plate along the notch line and straighten back. Do this a couple of times and it will crack. Do the same on the other side and remove the outer metal. Save it for later.

Step 3:

Attach the template to the metal rectangle (hereinafter referred to as the “base”) so that the long edge of the paper is on the middle line, and the right edges are aligned with the other edges. Don't worry if the other edges don't fit perfectly.

Using a knife and a corner cutter, cut the curved line of the template, including triangles at each end. The base doesn't have to be perfect, but try to be as precise as possible so that you can use it as a template for the rest. Cut, bend, and remove the two triangles of metal that remain outside the template.

Step 4:

Mark the centers of the holes on the template paper with a marker so that they are visible from the other side, and turn the paper over so that the printed side is down on the second half of the base, leaving its long edge in the middle line. Secure with tape so it doesn't move.

Bend inwards the curved part of the base and remove the two small triangles. Be careful not to bend the metal too much, as you may loosen it in the uncut portion.

Now you have your first foundation. Repeat steps two through three for a total of six. Also, instead of paper for cutting out the remaining bases, you can use the first one. On three of them, the center line will be drawn in front, and on the other three, behind.

Step 5:

Take all six blanks and connect them together, aligning them as accurately as possible. If suddenly you don’t have clothespins, use adhesive tape to connect them. Drill each of the 16 holes through all six blanks with a 4mm drill bit. Drill the center hole first, as that is the only one that needs to be accurate. You can put a bolt in the first hole so that the bases do not move when drilling the rest. If the holes on your template are slightly different from those in the video, it's because the template may have been updated.

Remove the template and separate them. Lay the base so that the middle line protrudes slightly from the edge of the table, place a corner on it and bend it to 90 degrees. Repeat this step with all six bases, fold three shiny side up and three down. Set them aside.

Step 6:

Take another aluminum plate and straighten out any possible kinks. Measure 67 cm from the long edge and cut off the rest. Draw a line at a distance of 2 cm from one of the edges, turn the plate over and draw another line at the same distance from the opposite edge. Repeat the action with two more plates and connect all three together so that each line drawn is aligned with the edge of the next plate.

Along the edge, cut lines at a distance of 4, 6, 8, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm, and then every 2 cm up to 64 cm. Keep in mind that the left side has a cut at a distance of 4 cm from the edge, and the right side - 3 cm. Flip the plates over making sure they are neatly aligned and do the same. Make sure the notches line up on both sides.

Step 7:

Place the plates on the table one above the other and align them along the edges. From the 4 cm mark, draw a vertical line 19 cm from the edge and another 33 cm. On each of these lines, make marks 3 and 20 cm from both ends. Drill all three plates with 4mm drill bits in all eight marks. If you are making a turbine with six blades instead of three, you can easily drill through all six plates at the same time. Then separate them.

Step 8:

Place the plate so that the right edge with the slot at a distance of 3 cm hangs over the table. Place the corner at the second mark from this edge and fold it into a triangular shape, as shown in the video. Do the same with the left edge.

Bend the plate beforehand so that the bases can be placed more easily. But don't bend it too much so that it doesn't fold in half.

Step 9:

Flip the plate vertically and insert the base from above (the uncut half with the holes should point up). The best way to do this is to first place the triangles along the edges into the corresponding holes on it, press down on the inside, and then push the rest of the plate through the cut.

Next, straighten the cut edge distances so that the first three on each of the triangles are outward, and the rest alternate. You will probably need to cut through a few of these, or use pliers if they prove less pliable. If you suddenly bend the tab in the wrong direction, it is better to leave it as it is, as bending it back can weaken the metal. Make sure the three long tabs are also folded in alternately.

Raise the base to line up with the folded parts. Place two bicycle spokes in its crease and fold over the other half. Pressing down on the edges of the metal around the spokes with pliers will keep them from falling out. Flip the structure over and place the other base in the same way.

Step 10:

Cut off the two outer corners of the base. Measure the smaller triangle and cut along with the other half, and for the larger one, make a margin of 2 cm using an aluminum angle and cut it off as well. Repeat for the second base.

Step 11:

Take one of the remains of the plate after cutting out the base and cut a strip 7 cm wide from it, and then cut 4 cm from its length. Give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video. From each edge of the 3 cm front side, draw lines, approximately in the center, a few centimeters long.

Step 12:

Position the triangular post inside the weather vane so that the side with the marked lines matches the row of drilled holes towards the trailing edge. Look at the line through the top hole to check for proper placement.

Drill the post through the hole in the wind vane and secure with a rivet. Repeat for the bottom hole, and then for the two in the middle.

Step 13:

Take a new plate, smoothing out any possible unevenness and cut it in half so that you have two 33.5 cm wide pieces. Cut 4 cm from one of the short edges of both pieces. Do this again so you have four 33.5 cm sheets (you will only need three of them). Align and connect them together.

From one of the long edges, draw three vertical lines at a distance of 1, 9 and 19 cm. Next, make marks on each line, at a distance of 1 and 20 cm on either side of the short edge. Drill 12 holes with a 4mm drill bit.

Step 14:

Make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the opposite long edge and give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video.

Step 15:

Place the resulting sheet inside the blade so that its smooth edge coincides with the trailing edge of the blade. It's okay to have a little gap if it doesn't fit perfectly.

Drill the holes closest to the edge through and fasten the sheet together with the back of the vane with rivets.

Step 16:

Raise the blade vertically. Press the triangular edge of the sheet inserted inside so that it rests against the back of the weather vane and is slightly stretched over the triangular post below it.

Drill the holes where the triangular edge of the sheet rests through and secure it with rivets.

Step 17:

Drill one of the center holes in the sheet, making sure the drill is pointing straight ahead, and secure the sheet with a rivet and washer so that the washer is on the inside of the blade. This one will be much easier with someone's help. Try to keep the puck straight. Repeat for the other three holes.

Drill and fasten the remaining row of holes in the same way. In this case, the sheet should fit snugly around the triangular rack. You will surely notice that the blade is now much stronger and stiffer.

Bend the 2cm overlap on both bases 90 degrees.

Step 18:

Drill all the holes in the base of the weather vane, along with the ones that will attach to the bike wheel. If you make the three bladed version, then it will be the bottom one. If you are making a version with six blades, then three of them will be attached to the wheel at the bottom, and the other three at the top. The rest of the blades are identical.

Fasten each hole with rivets, except as noted, as these will be bolted to the wheel rim.

On some holes it is very easy to just push out the inner layer of metal with both a drill and a riveter, so make sure they are all properly secured. If it doesn't, you may need to drill out and replace the rivet.

Drill holes on the opposite side of the blade and fasten everything except the center one.

Step 19:

Take a bicycle wheel. Drill three 4mm holes evenly spaced around the rim. Your wheel should have 36 spokes, so make holes every 12 spokes. They should also be fairly close to the edge of the rim.

Insert an M4 bolt through one of the holes and place the blade on top by threading the bolt through the outermost of the three holes in its base. Place a large washer and tighten the nut. Make sure the bolt is in front of the bike spoke you put in the crease of the base and the washer above it. This is important so that the bolt and the entire blade do not fall off the wheel. Do not fully tighten the nut.

Align the vane so that the other two holes are near the edge of the wheel rim and mark through them with a marker. Move the vane back so you can drill two marks.

Put the blade back in place and secure with two more bolts, large washers and nuts. Fully tighten all three. This is where a 7mm bit and wrench come in handy, as hand-tightening them is more time consuming. You're also better off using hex head bolts as they should rest against the wheel rim and not rotate when you tighten them. If they do spin, just grab the head of the bolt with pliers or a 7mm wrench. Trying to screw them in with a screwdriver if you happen to be using Phillips bolts is a nightmare at best, and if you're making a six-bladed turbine it's simply not possible.

Step 20:

Repeat all the previous steps twice starting from step 8 to collect two more blades from the remaining molds and plates and attach them to the wheel.

Step 21:

Take another piece of the plate and cut a strip 9.5 cm wide and 67 cm long. Draw lines 3.5 cm from the left long edge and 1 cm from the right. At this distance of 1 cm, bend the strip to 45 degrees. Then turn it over and give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video.

Drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm at a distance of 1 cm from each end of the resulting rack and in the middle, there should be three of them, in a flat area of ​​1 cm. Fasten the middle hole with a rivet. Repeat twice so you have three racks.

Step 22:

Insert an M4 bolt with a large washer from the bottom through the center hole at the top of one of the blades and through the outermost holes in the two uprights. Add another large washer and tighten the nut. Repeat the same with the other two blades and the last post. Do not tighten washers all the way.

The top of the blades should be flush with their bases. To do this, place the turbine on the ground so that you can look down on it, and check (if necessary, trim) each of the blades.

After leveling the position of the blade, drill a hole through one of the spacers (through and through with the top of the blade) at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge. Insert a large bolt, a large washer and tighten with a nut. Recheck alignment, drill another post and do the same. Tighten all three nuts. Repeat this for the other two blades.

If desired, you can add an additional three blades to the bottom of the wheel. This will give you twice as much power and also make the turbine more stable by moving the fulcrum to the middle rather than down.

Step 23:

To make a bracket for your turbine, take two strips of steel 18 and 20 cm long, 3 cm wide, about 3 mm thick. These numbers are not vital if they are roughly the same and the metal is strong enough.

Mark a distance of 3 cm from one end of each strip, and bend them at right angles using a bench vise. Make sure the corners are close to 90 degrees or the turbine won't stand up straight.

Nest two parts so that the 18 cm one is inside the larger one. Drill a 10mm hole (which should match the bike wheel axle diameter for your turbine) through the folded sides of the strips. Make sure they don't slip while drilling.

Take a spare bike axle, not the one on your wheel, and wind on the nut. Insert it into a 20 cm steel strip, add and tighten another nut, add a smaller strip, and then another nut.

Drill a 6mm hole in the gap between the two pieces as shown in the video, then another one about 1cm later and a third near the opposite end. Tighten the nuts and remove the fasteners.

Step 24:

Insert an M6 bolt through the top hole of the larger steel strip and slide it onto the axle at the bottom of the wheel (if the nut you are using is not too wide, you may need to machine the head of the bolt to fit between the two parts of the mount), then tighten nut, then thread the 18 cm piece, the last nut and tighten it as tightly as possible, and finally thread two bolts through the remaining holes.

Congratulations, you made a windmill with your own hands!

Configurations

Possible wind turbine configurations:

Below are some potential configurations for your wind turbine that require the attachment of various additional parts so that they can do useful work. Of course, one solution will not work for all situations at once, as it will depend to a large extent on how you plan to use the wind turbine, so the options are provided for the most part for guidance. Most builds are quite simple and have been done before.

Option A: DC generator.

This wind turbine can be plugged in and used to power a variety of equipment, like a mechanical water pump, but you'll probably use it to generate electricity to power household appliances or charge batteries.

One of the simplest solutions for this is to use a permanent magnet DC motor, which in reverse mode will work as a generator and convert mechanical energy into electrical energy. Which type of motor you end up using depends on your budget, the strength of the winds, and your electrical needs. However, the methods of connecting them to the turbine are almost the same. Good options for increasing power output are motors from car windshield wipers, electric scooters, or treadmills. They can be bought online or found in old or discarded devices.

The process of attaching the motor to the windmill structure is basically just stripping it off, attaching the pulley to the shaft, running the timing belt around the wheel rim (with a layer of nylon strapping attached to protect the belt and ensure a good engagement) and fasten the motor to the frame, as shown in the video, using long bolts so that you can easily adjust the tension of the belt.

Option B: High-rise pole

There are many different ways to mount a wind generator, including on your rooftop, boat, van, or radio tower, but the most common option, especially if you live in the countryside, is a metal pole with guide wires.

It's largely a matter of attaching various components, as shown in the video, to place the turbine in a safer and more secure way. You may need to dig holes, half a meter to a meter deep, to place wooden anchors there, or attach cables to any other firmly fixed objects nearby.

The bottom of the pole in this configuration has a horizontal arm and a connection that allows the structure to be lowered to the ground for diagnostics or during a storm. To do this, it is only necessary to remove the D-shaped bracket in the places where the cables are attached and, with its help, carefully lower the unit to the ground. You can lift it again by repeating the whole process in reverse. After that, it is desirable to make sure that everything is securely fixed, and the pole is in a vertical position.

To make the process safer, you can use four cables instead of three.

Option C: Bicycle chain and DC generator(s)

The toothed belt and pulley, in the case of the first option, work quite well, but not everywhere they can act as readily available materials. A simpler and potentially more effective alternative to this method is to use a bicycle chain, about 2.1-2.2 meters long (for this you will need to combine two chains together), and one or three DC motors. Two of these will help tension the chain as you tie the three motors together with clamps, leaving a small gap between them so they don't touch. To do this, you can lay something elastic between them, like thick rubber. If you only use one alternator, then the configuration is pretty much the same except for small metal tubes with bicycle gears spinning on a bolt or other axle for the same tension.

If you are using three motors, they can be connected in series for greater efficiency, especially in light winds. An additional advantage of this configuration is a strong grip on the base of the turbine, making it more stable and reliable in strong winds.

Option D: E-bike wheel motor.

The ideal solution for generating electricity from a homemade turbine is to use an electric bicycle wheel motor. If you manage to find it. The design uses the wheel anyway, and just about every aspect of power input and output, RPM and whatnot, is great for a 300W wheel motor. All you need to do is build a turbine on it and connect the wires to the electrical system. However, in some countries, unfortunately, such a solution can become complex and costly.

Option E: Homemade alternator.

This option will give you the most control over the performance of your home windmill in terms of voltage, RPM and total power today. However, it is also one of the most time-consuming, requiring extensive knowledge. Basically, it's just a circle of magnets passing through a circle of copper wire coils, but their exact configuration depends on a variety of factors. And yet this problem has already been solved a thousand times and there is a lot of useful information on this subject on the Internet.

Option F: "Hardcore".

The standard six-blade turbine assembly has withstood winds of up to 105 km/h and some pretty severe storms, but if you want to add even more robustness to the design, then this option will provide that option. In general, it consists of additional bracing and support points on the other side of the wheel axle and two additional aluminum triangles on the top and bottom struts to prevent the blades from swinging too far from the vertical and therefore falling off the wheel. Another difference is that it's better to mount the spacers on the inside rather than the outside so that they are on the center line of the turbine and neatly placed in the cut out circles of the two triangles.

Option G: Daisy-chain (vertical pole for multiple wind turbines).

About half of the total cost of a standard turbine installation is for the pole itself and its modifications. But there is no reason why you can only have one turbine on it. The lower ones will receive less wind and thus produce less energy than the higher ones, but this is still a very worthwhile undertaking. Since some turbines can be responsible for the production of electrical energy, while others, for example, for pumping water.

Video

Conclusion

Such a homemade windmill is unlikely to provide electricity to the whole house, but a few installations will be quite enough to supply energy to a country house, street lighting, watering installations, etc. According to the developers, together such a thing can be made in four hours of not very hard work, while spending only fifteen to thirty dollars.

It is difficult not to notice how the stability of electricity supplies to suburban facilities differs from the provision of urban buildings and enterprises with electricity. Admit that you, as the owner of a private house or cottage, have repeatedly encountered interruptions, inconveniences and damage to equipment associated with them.

The listed negative situations, together with the consequences, will no longer complicate the life of lovers of natural spaces. And with minimal labor and financial costs. To do this, you just need to make a wind power generator, which we describe in detail in the article.

We have described in detail the options for manufacturing a system that is useful in the economy, eliminating energy dependence. According to our advice, an inexperienced home craftsman will be able to build a wind generator with his own hands. A practical device will help to significantly reduce daily expenses.

Alternative energy sources are the dream of any summer resident or homeowner whose site is located far from the central networks. However, when we receive bills for electricity consumed in a city apartment, and looking at the increased tariffs, we realize that a wind generator created for domestic needs would not hurt us.

After reading this article, perhaps you will make your dream come true.

A wind generator is an excellent solution for providing a suburban facility with electricity. Moreover, in some cases, its installation is the only possible way out.

In order not to waste money, effort and time, let's decide: are there any external circumstances that will create obstacles for us in the process of operating a wind turbine?

To provide electricity to a summer house or a small cottage, it is enough, the power of which will not exceed 1 kW. Such devices in Russia are equated to household products. Their installation does not require certificates, permits or any additional approvals.

Do-it-yourself vertical wind generator, drawings, photos, videos of a windmill with a vertical axis.

Wind generators are divided according to the type of placement of the rotating axis (rotor) into vertical and horizontal. We considered the design of a wind turbine with a horizontal rotor in the last article, now let's talk about a wind generator with a vertical rotor.

Scheme of an axial generator for a wind generator.

Wind turbine manufacturing.

The wind wheel (turbine) of a vertical wind generator consists of two supports, upper and lower, as well as blades.

The wind wheel is made from sheets of aluminum or stainless steel, and the wind wheel can also be cut from a thin-walled barrel. The height of the wind wheel must be at least 1 meter.

In this wind wheel, the angle of the blades bend sets the speed of rotation of the rotor, the greater the bend, the greater the speed of rotation.

The wind wheel is bolted directly to the generator pulley.

To install a vertical wind generator, you can use any mast, the manufacture of the mast is described in detail in this.

Scheme of connection of the vetogenerator.

The generator is connected to the controller, which in turn is connected to the battery. It is more practical to use a car battery as an energy storage device. Since household appliances run on AC, we will need an inverter to convert DC 12V to AC 220V.

For connection, a copper wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 squares is used. The connection diagram is described in detail.

Video showing a wind generator in operation.

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