How to make a 220 volt wind generator. DIY wind turbines for home

We have developed a design of a wind turbine with a vertical axis of rotation. Below is a detailed guide for its manufacture, carefully reading which, you can make a vertical wind generator yourself.

The wind generator turned out to be quite reliable, with low maintenance costs, inexpensive and easy to manufacture. It is not necessary to follow the list of details below, you can make some adjustments of your own, improve something, use your own, because. Not everywhere you can find exactly what is on the list. We tried to use inexpensive and high-quality parts.

Used materials and equipment:

Wind turbines with a vertical axis of rotation are not as efficient as their horizontal counterparts, however, vertical wind turbines are less demanding on their installation site.

Turbine manufacturing

1. Connecting element - designed to connect the rotor to the wind turbine blades.
2. The layout of the blades - two opposite equilateral triangles. According to this drawing, it will then be easier to arrange the corners of the blades.

If you are not sure about something, cardboard templates will help you avoid mistakes and further alterations.

The sequence of steps for manufacturing a turbine:

1. Production of the lower and upper supports (bases) of the blades. Mark and use a jigsaw to cut out a circle from ABS plastic. Then circle it and cut out the second support. You should get two absolutely identical circles.
2. In the center of one support, cut a hole with a diameter of 30 cm. This will be the top support of the blades.
3. Take the hub (hub from the car) and mark and drill four holes on the bottom support for attaching the hub.
4. Make a template for the location of the blades (fig. above) and mark on the lower support the attachment points for the corners that will connect the support and the blades.
5. Stack the blades, tie them tightly and cut to the desired length. In this design, the blades are 116 cm long. The longer the blades, the more wind energy they receive, but the downside is instability in strong winds.
6. Mark the blades for attaching the corners. Pierce and then drill holes in them.
7. Using the paddle pattern shown in the picture above, attach the paddles to the support with the brackets.

Rotor manufacturing

The sequence of actions for the manufacture of the rotor:

1. Lay the two rotor bases on top of each other, align the holes and make a small mark on the sides with a file or marker. In the future, this will help to correctly orient them relative to each other.
2. Make two paper magnet placement templates and glue them to the bases.
3. Mark the polarity of all magnets with a marker. As a "polarity tester" you can use a small magnet wrapped in a rag or electrical tape. By passing it over a large magnet, it will be clearly visible whether it is repelled or attracted.
4. Prepare epoxy resin (by adding hardener to it). And apply it evenly on the bottom of the magnet.
5. Very carefully bring the magnet to the edge of the rotor base and move it to its position. If the magnet is installed on top of the rotor, then the high power of the magnet can sharply magnetize it and it can break. And never stick your fingers or other body parts between two magnets or a magnet and iron. Neodymium magnets are very powerful!
6. Continue gluing the magnets to the rotor (don't forget to lubricate with epoxy), alternating their poles. If the magnets move under the influence of magnetic force, then use a piece of wood, placing it between them for insurance.
7. After one rotor is finished, move on to the second. Using the mark you made earlier, position the magnets exactly opposite the first rotor, but in a different polarity.
8. Put the rotors away from each other (so that they do not get magnetized, otherwise you will not pull it off later).

The manufacture of a stator is a very laborious process. You can, of course, buy a ready-made stator (try to find them with us) or a generator, but it’s not a fact that they are suitable for a particular windmill with their own individual characteristics

The wind generator stator is an electrical component consisting of 9 coils. The stator coil is shown in the photo above. The coils are divided into 3 groups, 3 coils in each group. Each coil is wound with 24AWG (0.51mm) wire and contains 320 turns. More turns but thinner wire will give higher voltage but less current. Therefore, the parameters of the coils can be changed, depending on what voltage you require at the output of the wind generator. The following table will help you decide:
320 turns, 0.51mm (24AWG) = 100V @ 120 rpm.
160 turns, 0.0508mm (16AWG) = 48V @ 140 rpm.
60 turns, 0.0571 mm (15AWG) = 24V @ 120 rpm.

Winding coils by hand is a boring and difficult task. Therefore, in order to facilitate the winding process, I would advise you to make a simple device - a winding machine. Moreover, its design is quite simple and it can be made from improvised materials.

The turns of all coils should be wound in the same way, in the same direction, and pay attention or mark where the beginning and where the end of the coil is. To prevent unwinding of the coils, they are wrapped with electrical tape and smeared with epoxy.

The fixture is made from two pieces of plywood, a bent hairpin, a piece of PVC pipe and nails. Before bending the hairpin, heat it with a torch.

A small piece of pipe between the planks provides the desired thickness, and four nails provide the required dimensions for the coils.

You can come up with your own design of the winding machine, or maybe you already have a ready-made one.
After all the coils are wound, they must be checked for identity to each other. This can be done using scales, and you also need to measure the resistance of the coils with a multimeter.

Do not connect household consumers directly from the wind turbine! Also observe the safety precautions when handling electricity!

Coil connection process:

1. Sand the ends of the leads on each coil.
2. Connect the coils as shown in the picture above. You should get 3 groups, 3 coils in each group. With this connection scheme, a three-phase alternating current will be obtained. Solder the ends of the coils, or use clamps.
3. Choose from the following configurations:
   A. Configuration" star". In order to get a large output voltage, connect the X, Y and Z pins together.
   B. Delta configuration. To get a high current, connect X to B, Y to C, Z to A.
   C. In order to make it possible to change the configuration in the future, grow all six conductors and bring them out.
4. On a large sheet of paper, draw a diagram of the location and connection of the coils. All coils must be evenly distributed and match the location of the rotor magnets.
5. Attach the spools with tape to the paper. Prepare epoxy resin with hardener for casting the stator.
6. Use a paint brush to apply epoxy to fiberglass. If necessary, add small pieces of fiberglass. Do not fill the center of the coils to ensure sufficient cooling during operation. Try to avoid the formation of bubbles. The purpose of this operation is to secure the coils in place and flatten the stator, which will be located between the two rotors. The stator will not be a loaded node and will not rotate.

In order to make it more clear, consider the whole process in pictures:

The finished coils are placed on waxed paper with the layout drawn. Three small circles in the corners in the photo above are the holes for mounting the stator bracket. The ring in the center prevents the epoxy from getting into the center circle.

The coils are fixed in place. Fiberglass, in small pieces, is placed around the coils. The coil leads can be brought inside or outside the stator. Be sure to leave enough lead length. Be sure to double-check all connections and ring with a multimeter.

The stator is almost ready. The holes for mounting the bracket are drilled in the stator. When drilling holes, be careful not to hit the coil leads. After completing the operation, cut off the excess fiberglass and, if necessary, clean the surface of the stator with sandpaper.

stator bracket

The pipe for attaching the hub axle was cut to the desired size. Holes were drilled and threaded in it. In the future, bolts will be screwed into them that will hold the axle.

The figure above shows the bracket to which the stator will be attached, located between the two rotors.

The photo above shows a stud with nuts and a sleeve. Four of these studs provide the necessary clearance between the rotors. Instead of a bushing, you can use larger nuts, or cut your own aluminum washers.

Generator. final assembly

A small clarification: a small air gap between the rotor-stator-rotor connection (which is set by a stud with a bushing) provides a higher power output, but the risk of damage to the stator or rotor increases when the axis is misaligned, which can occur in strong winds.

The left picture below shows a rotor with 4 clearance studs and two aluminum plates (which will be removed later).
The right picture shows the assembled and green painted stator in place.

Assembly process:
1. Drill 4 holes in the top rotor plate and thread them for the stud. This is necessary to smoothly lower the rotor into place. Rest 4 studs in the aluminum plates glued earlier and install the top rotor on the studs.
The rotors will be attracted to each other with a very large force, which is why such a device is needed. Immediately align the rotors relative to each other according to the marks on the ends set earlier.
2-4. Alternately rotating the studs with a wrench, evenly lower the rotor.
5. Once the rotor has rested against the hub (providing clearance), unscrew the studs and remove the aluminum plates.
6. Install the hub (hub) and screw it on.

The generator is ready!

After installing the studs (1) and the flange (2), your generator should look something like this (see the figure above)

Stainless steel bolts serve to provide electrical contact. It is convenient to use ring lugs on wires.

Cap nuts and washers are used to fasten the connections. boards and blade supports to the generator. So, the wind generator is fully assembled and ready for tests.

To begin with, it is best to spin the windmill with your hand and measure the parameters. If all three output terminals are shorted together, then the windmill should rotate very tightly. This can be used to stop the wind turbine for service or safety reasons.

A wind turbine can be used for more than just providing electricity to your home. For example, this instance is made so that the stator generates a large voltage, which is then used for heating.
The generator considered above produces a 3-phase voltage with different frequencies (depending on the strength of the wind), and for example, in Russia a single-phase 220-230V network is used, with a fixed network frequency of 50 Hz. This does not mean that this generator is not suitable for powering household appliances. Alternating current from this generator can be converted to direct current, with a fixed voltage. And direct current can already be used to power lamps, heat water, charge batteries, or a converter can be supplied to convert direct current to alternating current. But this is already beyond the scope of this article.

In the figure above, a simple circuit of a bridge rectifier, consisting of 6 diodes. It converts AC to DC.

Location of the wind generator

The wind generator described here is mounted on a 4-meter support on the edge of a mountain. The pipe flange, which is installed at the bottom of the generator, provides an easy and quick installation of the wind generator - it is enough to fasten 4 bolts. Although for reliability, it is better to weld.

Usually, horizontal wind turbines "like" when the wind blows from one direction, unlike vertical wind turbines, where due to the weather vane, they can turn and they do not care about the direction of the wind. Because Since this windmill is installed on the shore of a cliff, the wind there creates turbulent flows from different directions, which is not very effective for this design.

Another factor to consider when choosing a location is the strength of the wind. An archive of wind strength data for your area can be found on the Internet, although this will be very approximate, because. it all depends on the location.
Also, an anemometer (a device for measuring wind force) will help in choosing the location of the installation of the wind generator.

A little about the mechanics of the wind generator

As you know, the wind occurs due to the difference in temperature of the earth's surface. When the wind rotates the turbines of a wind generator, it creates three forces: lifting, braking and impulse. The lifting force usually occurs over a convex surface and is a consequence of the pressure difference. The wind braking force occurs behind the blades of the wind generator, it is undesirable and slows down the windmill. The impulse force comes from the curved shape of the blades. When air molecules push the blades from behind, they have nowhere to go and they gather behind them. As a result, they push the blades in the direction of the wind. The greater the lifting and impulse forces and the less braking force, the faster the blades will rotate. Accordingly, the rotor rotates, which creates a magnetic field on the stator. As a result, electrical energy is generated.

Download the layout of the magnets.

Air masses have inexhaustible reserves of energy that mankind used in ancient times. Basically, the force of the wind ensured the movement of ships under sail and the operation of windmills. After the invention of steam engines, this type of energy lost its relevance.

Only in modern conditions, wind energy has again become in demand as a driving force applied to electric generators. They are not yet widely used on an industrial scale, but are becoming increasingly popular in the private sector. Sometimes it is simply impossible to connect to the power line. In such situations, many owners design and manufacture a wind generator for a private house with their own hands from improvised materials. In the future, they are used as the main or auxiliary sources of electricity.

The theory of an ideal windmill

This theory was developed at different times by scientists and specialists in the field of mechanics. It was first developed by V.P. Vetchinkin in 1914, and the theory of an ideal propeller was used as a basis. In these studies, the utilization factor of wind energy by an ideal windmill was first derived.

Work in this area was continued by N.E. Zhukovsky, who deduced the maximum value of this coefficient, equal to 0.593. In the later works of another professor - Sabinin G.Kh. the corrected value of the coefficient was 0.687.

According to the developed theories, an ideal wind wheel should have the following parameters:

• The axis of rotation of the wheel must be parallel to the speed of the wind flow.
• The number of blades is infinitely large, with a very small width.
• Zero profile resistance of the wings in the presence of constant circulation along the blades.
• The entire swept surface of the windmill has a constant lost airflow velocity on the wheel.
• The tendency of the angular velocity to infinity.

Wind turbine selection

When choosing a wind turbine model for a private house, one should take into account the necessary power that ensures the operation of instruments and equipment, taking into account the schedule and frequency of switching on. It is determined by monthly metering of consumed electricity. Additionally, the power value can be determined in accordance with the technical characteristics of consumers.

It should also be taken into account that the power of all electrical appliances is not carried out directly from the wind generator, but from the inverter and a set of batteries. Thus, a generator with a power of 1 kW is able to ensure the normal functioning of the batteries that feed the four-kilowatt inverter. As a result, household appliances with a similar capacity are provided with electricity in full. Choosing the right batteries is important. Particular attention should be paid to parameters such as charging current.

When choosing a wind turbine design, the following factors are taken into account:

• The direction of rotation of the wind wheel is vertical or horizontal.
• The shape of the blades for the fan can be in the form of a sail, with a straight or curved surface. In some cases, combined options are used.
• Material for blades and technology of their manufacture.
• Placement of fan blades with different slopes relative to the flow of passing air.
• The number of blades included in the fan.
• The required power transferred from the wind turbine to the generator.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the average annual wind speed for a particular area, specified in the meteorological service. It is not necessary to specify the direction of the wind, since modern designs of wind turbines independently turn in the other direction.

For most areas of the Russian Federation, the best option would be the horizontal orientation of the axis of rotation, the surface of the blades is curved concave, which the air flow flows around at an acute angle. The amount of power taken from the wind is affected by the area of ​​the blade. For an ordinary house, an area of ​​\u200b\u200b1.25 m 2 is enough.

The speed of a wind turbine depends on the number of blades. Wind turbines with one blade rotate the fastest. In such designs, a counterweight is used for balancing. It should also be taken into account that at low wind speeds, below 3 m/s, wind turbines become unable to take energy. In order for the unit to perceive a weak wind, the area of ​​​​its blades must be increased to at least 2 m 2.

Calculation of a wind generator

Before choosing a wind generator, it is necessary to determine the wind speed and direction that are most characteristic at the place of intended installation. It should be remembered that the rotation of the blades starts at a minimum wind speed of 2 m/s. The maximum efficiency can be achieved when this indicator reaches a value from 9 to 12 m / s. That is, in order to provide electricity to a small country house, you will need a generator with a minimum power of 1 kW / h and wind at a speed of at least 8 m / s.

Wind speed and propeller diameter have a direct impact on the power generated by a wind turbine. It is possible to accurately calculate the performance characteristics of a particular model using the following formulas:

1. Calculations according to the area of ​​rotation are performed as follows: P = 0.6 x S x V 3, where S is the area perpendicular to the direction of the wind (m 2), V is the wind speed (m / s), P is the power of the generator set ( kW).
2. To calculate the electrical installation by the diameter of the screw, the formula is used: P \u003d D 2 x V 3 / 7000, in which D is the screw diameter (m), V is the wind speed (m / s), P is the generator power (kW).
3. More complex calculations take into account the density of the air flow. For these purposes, there is a formula: P \u003d ξ x π x R 2 x 0.5 x V 3 x ρ x η red x η gene, where ξ is the coefficient of wind energy use (a measureless value), π = 3.14, R - rotor radius (m), V - air flow velocity (m / s), ρ - air density (kg / m 3), η ed - reducer efficiency (%), η gene - generator efficiency (%).

Thus, the electricity produced by the wind generator increases quantitatively in a cubic ratio with the increasing speed of the wind flow. For example, with an increase in wind speed by 2 times, the production of kinetic energy by the rotor will increase by 8 times.

When choosing a place to install a wind turbine, it is necessary to give preference to areas without large buildings and tall trees that create a barrier to the wind. The minimum distance from residential buildings is from 25 to 30 meters, otherwise the noise during work will create inconvenience and discomfort. The wind turbine rotor must be located at a height exceeding the nearest buildings by at least 3-5 m.

If it is not planned to connect a country house to a common network, in this case, you can use the options of combined systems. The operation of the wind turbine will be much more efficient when used in conjunction with a diesel generator or a solar battery.

How to make a wind generator with your own hands

Regardless of the type and design of the wind turbine, each device is equipped with similar elements as a basis. All models are equipped with generators, blades of various materials, lifts to provide the desired level of installation, as well as additional batteries and an electronic control system. The most simple to manufacture are rotary-type units or axial structures using magnets.

Option 1. Rotary design of the wind generator.

The design of a rotary wind generator uses two, four or more blades. Such wind generators are not able to fully provide electricity to large country houses. They are mainly used as an auxiliary source of electricity.

Depending on the design power of the windmill, the necessary materials and components are selected:

• 12 volt car alternator and car battery.
• Voltage regulator that converts alternating current from 12 to 220 volts.
• Large sized container. An aluminum bucket or stainless steel pot works best.
• As a charger, you can use the relay removed from the car.
• You will need a 12 V switch, a charge lamp with a controller, bolts with nuts and washers, and metal clamps with rubberized gaskets.
• A three-core cable with a minimum cross section of 2.5 mm 2 and a conventional voltmeter taken from any measuring device.

First of all, the rotor is prepared from an existing metal container - a pot or bucket. It is divided into four equal parts, holes are made at the ends of the lines to facilitate separation into component parts. Then the container is cut with scissors for metal or a grinder. Rotor blades are cut out of the resulting blanks. All measurements must be carefully checked for dimensional conformity, otherwise the design will not work properly.

Next, the side of rotation of the generator pulley is determined. As a rule, it rotates clockwise, but it is better to check this. After that, the rotor part is connected to the generator. To avoid imbalance in the movement of the rotor, the mounting holes in both designs must be symmetrical.

To increase the speed of rotation, the edges of the blades should be slightly bent. As the bending angle increases, the air flows will be more effectively perceived by the rotary unit. As blades, not only elements of a cut container are used, but also individual parts connected to a metal blank having the shape of a circle.

After attaching the container to the generator, the entire resulting structure must be fully installed on the mast using metal clamps. Then the wiring is mounted and assembled. Each pin must be connected to its own connector. After connection, the wiring is attached to the mast with wire.

At the end of the assembly, the inverter, battery and load are connected. The battery is connected with a cable with a cross section of 3 mm 2, for all other connections a cross section of 2 mm 2 is sufficient. After that, the wind generator can be operated.

Option 2. Axial construction of a wind generator using magnets.

Axial windmills for the home are a design, one of the main elements of which are neodymium magnets. In terms of their performance, they are significantly ahead of conventional rotary units.

The rotor is the main element of the entire design of the wind turbine. For its manufacture, the hub of an automobile wheel complete with brake discs is best suited. The part that was in operation should be prepared - cleaned of dirt and rust, lubricated bearings.

Next, you need to correctly distribute and fix the magnets. In total, you will need 20 pieces, 25 x 8 mm in size. The magnetic field in them is located along the length. Even magnets will be poles, they are located on the entire plane of the disk, alternating through one. Then the pros and cons are determined. One magnet alternately touches the other magnets on the disc. If they attract, then the pole is positive.

With an increased number of poles, certain rules must be observed. In single-phase generators, the number of poles is the same as the number of magnets. Three-phase generators have a 4/3 ratio between magnets and poles and a 2/3 ratio between poles and coils. The installation of magnets is carried out perpendicular to the circumference of the disc. A paper template is used to evenly distribute them. First, the magnets are fixed with strong glue, and then finally fixed with epoxy.

If we compare single-phase and three-phase generators, then the performance of the former will be somewhat worse compared to the latter. This is due to high amplitude fluctuations in the network due to unstable current output. Therefore, vibration occurs in single-phase devices. In three-phase designs, this disadvantage is compensated by current loads from one phase to another. As a result, a constant power value is always ensured in the network. Due to vibration, the service life of single-phase systems is significantly shorter than that of three-phase systems. In addition, three-phase models have no noise during operation.

The height of the mast is approximately 6-12 m. It is installed in the center of the formwork and poured with concrete. Then a finished structure is installed on the mast, on which the screw is attached. The mast itself is fastened with cables.

Wind turbine blades

The efficiency of wind power installations largely depends on the design of the blades. First of all, this is their number and size, as well as the material from which the blades for the wind turbine will be made.

Factors affecting blade design:

• Even the weakest wind can set the long blades in motion. However, too much length can slow down the speed of the wind wheel.
• Increasing the total number of blades makes the wind wheel more responsive. That is, the more blades, the better the rotation starts. However, the power and speed will decrease, making such a device unsuitable for power generation.
• The diameter and speed of rotation of the wind wheel affects the noise level generated by the device.

The number of blades must be combined with the installation site of the entire structure. Under the most optimal conditions, properly selected blades can provide maximum output from the wind turbine.

First of all, you need to determine in advance the required power and functionality of the device. To properly manufacture a wind turbine, you need to study the possible designs, as well as the climatic conditions in which it will be operated.

In addition to the total power, it is recommended to determine the value of the output power, also known as peak load. It represents the total number of appliances and equipment that will be turned on simultaneously with the operation of the wind turbine. If you need to increase this figure, it is recommended to use several inverters at once.

DIY wind generator 24v - 2500 watts

After looking at foreign sites how ordinary people make wind turbines, I also wanted to do something similar. At that time, there was no special information on these windmills on the Russian Internet, only disseminated information about Hugh Pigot windmills and all sorts of scraps of information. But still, I wanted to make such a simple windmill for myself.

The case began with the search for neodymium magnets, but the prices in online stores were very high, and I did not find them in ordinary stores. But soon managed to order cheaper magnets. 25 round magnets 20 * 5mm in size cost only 1030 rubles. While the magnets were going, I set about making the blades.

Wooden blades for a wind turbine

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At first I removed the excess tree from the blades with an ordinary large knife with a wide blade, since I didn’t have a scraper.

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After the finished blades were sanded with sandpaper to a completely smooth state. Then the blades were soaked with drying oil three times.

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I also cut out circles from plywood for attaching the blades. I cut the blades at the butt at 120 degrees using a circular saw. Screw diameter 2m exactly.

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The parcel with magnets arrived, even a little earlier than I expected. I held such magnets in my hands for the first time, very powerful despite the fact that they are so small, they cannot be compared with ordinary ferrite ones. Here is the parcel itself, packed neatly, all the magnets are in place and intact.

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The rotor disks were made of iron 4 mm thick. First, two blanks were cut out, holes for the studs were drilled on the drilling machine, and then the central holes were cut out on the lathe and the edges were machined.

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To keep the magnets on the disks securely, I filled it with epoxy. For pouring from plywood, I made a mold, glued it with molar tape. I marked sectors for magnets on the disks and laid out the magnets alternating with poles. For the convenience of checking the poles, I used a compass needle. Here is the disc with magnets before pouring.

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Here are the finished rotor discs with magnets filled in.

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There are 9 coils in total.

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To fill the coils, the starota made a new form. First, I laid a piece of plastic film, then a piece of fiberglass on top, and already a form on the fiberglass, and in the form of a coil. Next, I prepared the resin and began to pour the stator.

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Epoxy resin was poured a little more than necessary, this was done specifically so that the second piece of fiberglass was soaked, which covered the stator from above. Then I pressed this case on top with a piece of plywood and put a load, left it like that until the resin hardens.

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Finished stator.

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The stator mount was cut out of the same 4 mm steel.

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Also, the turner turned me a rotary axis. Further, everything was welded together, the parts available were used, or rather lying around in scrap metal. Protection of the wind turbine from strong winds is made by the folding tail method.

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As all welding work was completed, the product was cleaned and prepared for painting.

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After assembly, one hundred magnets on the disks were found to be attracted to the studs that hold the stator, because of this, there is, as it were, sticking and a slight vibration is observed during rotation. Since I did not find non-magnetic studs, I had to lengthen the mounts so that the studs were further from the disks with magnets.

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The brush assembly was also made. The rings are made of epoxy resin, at first square blanks for the rings were poured, then I inserted them into a drill and turned them into a round shape. I cut strips from aluminum and glued them onto epoxy.

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He poured the foundation, made a mount for the mast from the connecting rods.

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After all the preparatory work, I made a trial lifting of the mast in order to immediately tighten all the extensions and check everything before lifting the wind generator.

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Before lifting, the wind generator was once again painted over.

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Preparing to lift the wind turbine.

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And finally, the wind generator is raised into the wind.

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As a result, the generator for generating electricity did not justify itself, on average it generates only 2-5 volts, and only occasionally at impulses up to 10 volts, current up to 1A. But still, the main goal of this work was achieved, the wind generator turned out to be cheap and made mainly from free materials at hand. Well, it looks good and pleases the eye. Photo and short description from here >> source

One of the most affordable renewable energy options is the use of wind energy. For information on how to independently calculate, assemble and install a windmill, read this article.

Classification of wind generators

Installations are classified based on the following wind turbine criteria:

• location of the axis of rotation;
• number of blades;
• element material;
• screw pitch.

Wind turbines, as a rule, have a design with a horizontal and vertical axis of rotation.

Execution with a horizontal axis - a propeller design with one, two, three or more blades. This is the most common version of air power plants due to its high efficiency.

Vertical axis design - orthogonal and carousel designs on the example of Darrieus and Savonius rotors. The last two concepts should be clarified, since both have a certain significance in the design of wind generators.

The Darrieus rotor is an orthogonal design of a wind turbine, where the aerodynamic blades (two or more) are located symmetrically to each other at a certain distance and are mounted on radial beams. A fairly complex version of a wind turbine that requires careful aerodynamic design of the blades.

The Savonius rotor is a carousel-type wind turbine design, where two semi-cylindrical blades are located one against the other, forming a sinusoidal shape as a whole. The efficiency of the structures is low (about 15%), but can be almost doubled if the blades are placed in the direction of the wave not horizontally, but vertically and a multi-tiered version is used with an angular displacement of each pair of blades relative to other pairs.

Advantages and disadvantages of "windmills"

The advantages of these devices are obvious, especially in relation to domestic operating conditions. Users of "windmills" actually get the opportunity to reproduce free electrical energy, except for small costs for construction and maintenance. However, the disadvantages of wind turbines are also obvious.

So, in order to achieve efficient operation of the installation, it is required to fulfill the conditions for the stability of wind flows. Man cannot create such conditions. This is purely the prerogative of nature. Another, but already technical, disadvantage is the low quality of the generated electricity, as a result of which it is necessary to supplement the system with expensive electrical modules (multipliers, chargers, batteries, converters, stabilizers).

Advantages and disadvantages in terms of the features of each of the modifications of wind turbines, perhaps, balance at zero. If horizontal-axis modifications are characterized by a high efficiency value, then for stable operation they require the use of wind flow direction controllers and hurricane wind protection devices. Vertical-axis modifications have low efficiency, but work stably without a wind direction tracking mechanism. At the same time, such wind turbines are distinguished by a low level of noise, eliminate the effect of "spreading" in conditions of strong winds, and are quite compact.

Homemade wind generators

Making a "windmill" with your own hands is a completely solvable task. Moreover, a constructive and rational approach to business will help to minimize the inevitable financial costs. First of all, it is worth sketching out the project, carrying out the necessary calculations of balancing and power. These actions will not only be the key to the successful construction of a wind farm, but also the key to maintaining the integrity of all purchased equipment.

It is recommended to start with the construction of a micro-windmill with a power of several tens of watts. In the future, the experience gained will help create a more powerful design. When creating a home wind generator, you should not focus on obtaining high-quality electricity (220 V, 50 Hz), since this option will require significant financial investments. It is wiser to limit ourselves to using the initially received electricity, which can be successfully used without conversion for other purposes, for example, to support heating and hot water systems built on electric heaters (heaters) - such devices do not require a stable voltage and frequency. This makes it possible to create a simple circuit that runs directly from the generator.

Most likely, no one will argue that heating and hot water supply in the house are inferior in importance to household appliances and lighting fixtures, for which power is often sought to install home windmills. The device of a wind turbine specifically for the purpose of providing the house with heat and hot water is the minimum cost and simplicity of design.

Generalized project of a home wind turbine

Structurally, a home project largely repeats an industrial installation. True, household solutions are often based on vertical-axis wind turbines and are equipped with low-voltage DC generators. The composition of household wind turbine modules, subject to the receipt of high-quality electricity (220 V, 50 Hz):

• wind turbine;
• wind orientation device;
• multiplier;
• DC generator (12 V, 24 V);
• battery charge module;
• rechargeable batteries (lithium-ion, lithium-polymer, lead-acid);
• DC voltage converter 12 V (24 V) to AC voltage 220 V.

Wind turbine PIC 8-6/2.5

How it works? Just. The wind turns the windmill. The torque is transmitted through the multiplier to the shaft of the DC generator. The energy received at the output of the generator through the charging module is accumulated in the batteries. From the battery terminals, a constant voltage of 12 V (24 V, 48 V) is supplied to the converter, where it is transformed into a voltage suitable for powering household electrical networks.

About generators for home "windmills"

Most residential wind turbine designs are typically constructed using low-speed DC motors. This is the simplest version of the generator that does not require modernization. Optimally - electric motors with permanent magnets, designed for a supply voltage of the order of 60-100 volts. There is a practice of using car generators, but for such a case, the introduction of a multiplier is required, since autogenerators produce the required voltage only at high (1800-2500) revolutions. One of the possible options is the reconstruction of an AC induction motor, but it is also quite complicated, requiring accurate calculations, turning, and installing neodymium magnets in the rotor area. There is an option for a three-phase asynchronous motor with the connection of capacitors of the same capacity between the phases. Finally, there is the possibility of making a generator from scratch with your own hands. There are a lot of instructions for this.

Vertical-axis homemade "windmill"

A fairly efficient and, most importantly, inexpensive wind generator can be built on the basis of the Savonius rotor. Here, as an example, a micro-power plant is considered, the power of which does not exceed 20 W. However, this device is quite sufficient, for example, to provide electrical energy to some household appliances operating on a voltage of 12 volts.

Parts set:

1. Aluminum sheet 1.5-2 mm thick.
2. Plastic pipe: diameter 125 mm, length 3000 mm.
3. Aluminum pipe: diameter 32 mm, length 500 mm.
4. DC motor (potential generator), 30-60V, 360-450 rpm, for example, PIK8-6/2.5 electric motor.
5. Voltage controller.
6. Battery.

Making a Savonius rotor

Three "pancakes" with a diameter of 285 mm are cut out of an aluminum sheet. Holes are drilled in the center of each for a 32 mm aluminum pipe. It turns out something similar to CDs. Two pieces 150 mm long are cut from the plastic pipe and cut in half lengthwise. The result is four semicircular blades 125x150 mm. All three aluminum "CDs" are put on a 32 mm pipe and fixed at a distance of 320, 170, 20 mm from the top point strictly horizontally, forming two tiers. Blades are inserted between the discs, two per tier and fixed strictly one against the other, forming a sinusoid. In this case, the blades of the upper tier are displaced relative to the blades of the lower tier by an angle of 90 degrees. The result is a four-bladed Savonius rotor. For fastening elements, you can use rivets, self-tapping screws, corners, or use other methods.

Connecting to the engine and mounting on the mast

The shaft of DC motors with the above parameters usually has a diameter of no more than 10-12 mm. In order to connect the motor shaft to the wind turbine pipe, a brass bushing is pressed into the lower part of the pipe, having the required inner diameter. A hole is drilled through the wall of the pipe and the sleeve, a thread is cut to screw in the locking screw. Next, the wind turbine pipe is put on the generator shaft, after which the connection is rigidly fixed with a locking screw.

The rest of the plastic pipe (2800 mm) is the mast of the wind turbine. The generator assembly with the Savonius wheel is mounted at the top of the mast - it is simply inserted into the pipe until it stops. As a stop, a metal disk cover is used, fixed on the front end of the motor, having a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the mast. Holes are drilled on the periphery of the lid for attaching braces. Since the diameter of the motor housing is smaller than the inner diameter of the pipe, gaskets or stops are used to align the generator in the center. The cable from the generator is passed inside the pipe and out through the window at the bottom. During installation, it is necessary to take into account the design of the generator protection against moisture, using sealing gaskets for this. Again, in order to protect against precipitation, an umbrella cap can be installed above the connection of the wind turbine pipe with the generator shaft.

Installation of the entire structure is carried out in an open, well-ventilated area. A hole 0.5 meters deep is dug under the mast, the lower part of the pipe is lowered into the hole, the structure is leveled with stretch marks, after which the hole is filled with concrete.

Voltage controller (simple charger)

A manufactured wind generator, as a rule, is not capable of delivering a voltage of 12 volts due to the low speed. The maximum frequency of rotation of the wind turbine at a wind speed of 6-8 m / s. reaches a value of 200-250 rpm. At the output, it is possible to obtain a voltage of the order of 5-7 volts. To charge the battery, a voltage of 13.5-15 volts is required. The way out is to use a simple switching voltage converter, assembled, for example, based on the LM2577ADJ voltage regulator. By applying 5 volts DC to the input of the converter, 12-15 volts are obtained at the output, which is quite enough to charge a car battery.

Ready voltage converter on LM2577

This micro-wind generator can certainly be improved. Increase the power of the turbine, change the material and height of the mast, add a DC-to-AC mains voltage converter, etc.

Horizontal-axial wind power plant

Parts set:

1. A plastic pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, an aluminum sheet 1.5-2.5 mm thick, a wooden block 80x40 1 m long, plumbing: flange - 3, corner - 2, tee - 1.
2. DC motor (generator) 30-60 V, 300-470 rpm.
3. Wheel-pulley for an engine with a diameter of 130-150 mm (aluminum, brass, textolite, etc.).
4. Steel pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and 32 mm and a length of 35 mm and 3000 mm, respectively.
5. Charging module for batteries.
6. Batteries.
7. Voltage converter 12 V - 120 V (220 V).

Production of a horizontal-axial "windmill"

Plastic pipe is necessary for the manufacture of wind turbine blades. A segment of such a pipe, 600 mm long, is cut lengthwise into four identical segments. The windmill requires three blades, which are made from the resulting segments by cutting off part of the material diagonally for the entire length, but not exactly from corner to corner, but from the lower corner to the upper corner, with a slight indent from the latter. The processing of the lower part of the segments is reduced to the formation of a fastening petal on each of the three segments. To do this, a square about 50x50 mm in size is cut along one edge, and the remaining part serves as a mounting petal.

The blades of the wind turbine are fixed on the wheel-pulley with the help of bolted connections. The pulley is mounted directly on the shaft of the DC motor - generator. A simple wooden block with a section of 80x40 mm and a length of 1 m is used as the chassis of the wind turbine. The generator is installed at one end of the wooden block. At the other end of the bar, a "tail" is mounted, made of aluminum sheet. At the bottom of the bar, a 25 mm metal pipe is attached, designed to act as the shaft of the rotary mechanism. A three-meter metal pipe 32 mm is used as a mast. The upper part of the mast is a swivel sleeve where the wind turbine pipe is inserted. The mast support is made from a sheet of thick plywood. On this support, in the form of a disk with a diameter of 600 mm, a construction of sanitary parts is assembled, thanks to which the mast can be easily raised or lowered, or mounted or dismantled. Stretch marks are used to fasten the mast.

All electronics of the wind turbine is mounted in a separate module, the interface of which provides for the connection of batteries and consumer loads. The module includes a battery charge controller and a voltage converter. Such devices can be assembled independently with the appropriate experience, or purchased on the market. There are many different solutions on the market that allow you to get the desired output values ​​\u200b\u200bof voltages and currents.

Combined wind turbines

Combined wind turbines are a serious option for a home energy module. Actually, the combination involves combining in a single system a wind generator, a solar battery, a diesel or gasoline power plant. You can combine in every possible way, based on the possibilities and needs. Naturally, when there is a three-in-one option, this is the most effective and reliable solution.

Also, under the combination of wind turbines, it is supposed to create wind power plants that have two different modifications at once. For example, when a Savonius rotor and a traditional three-blade machine work in the same bundle. The first turbine operates at low wind flow speeds, and the second only at nominal ones. Thus, the efficiency of the installation is maintained, unjustified energy losses are excluded, and in the case of asynchronous generators, reactive currents are compensated.

Combined systems are technically complex and costly options for home practice.

Calculation of the power of a wind farm

To calculate the power of a horizontal-axis wind generator, you can use the standard formula:

• N = p S V3 / 2
• N— installation power, W
• p- air density (1.2 kg / m 3)
• S- blown area, m 2
• V— wind flow speed, m/s

For example, the power of an installation with a maximum blade span of 1 meter, with a wind speed of 7 m / s, will be:

• N\u003d 1.2 1 343 / 2 \u003d 205.8 W

An approximate calculation of the power of a wind turbine created on the basis of the Savonius rotor can be calculated using the formula:

• N = p R H V3
• N— installation power, W
• R— impeller radius, m
• V— wind speed, m/s

For example, for the design of a wind power plant with a Savonius rotor mentioned in the text, the power value at a wind speed of 7 m / s. will be:

• N= 1.2 0.142 0.3 343 = 17.5 W

A home wind generator is an alternative device for generating electricity. Such equipment will be indispensable if you are not very close to the center line.

Advantages and disadvantages of equipment

A wind turbine for a home is a popular unit. However, it has its pros and cons. Among the advantages are the following:

You do not have to pay anything for the generated energy;

You will not be harmed if the main power supply is turned off;

Windmills can supply energy to those houses that are far from centralized lines;

It is possible to use a generator for space heating (together with other sources, such as solar panels);

The device does not emit any harmful substances, and you do not leave any waste, that is, you do not pollute the environment.

It should be noted that the wind generator for the home has certain disadvantages:

The initial purchase and installation is quite expensive;

Such a device can only work when the wind is blowing, so you will not be able to use such energy all the time;

The device makes quite a lot of noise.

Types of equipment

A wind generator for a home can be with a vertical or horizontal axis. The second type is more common. First of all, they were invented much earlier than vertical-axis devices. But they have their drawback: for the operation of such a unit, a certain direction and strength of the wind is necessary.

The first type of device has its advantages. In addition, it is becoming more popular than horizontal axis generators. The fact is that it constantly expands the power range. And vertical devices do not depend on the direction of the wind.

Design and principle of operation of the product

Do-it-yourself wind turbines for the home are not difficult to make. However, first you need to understand the design of the device. So, the presented device consists of only a few parts: a rotor, blades, a mast, as well as a “tail”, thanks to which the device turns in the direction of the wind. In addition, additional batteries may be included in the overall system.

In addition to the main components, in your own design you can use a variety of sensors, anemometers, blade rotation regulators. If the windmill is manufactured in production, then it can be equipped with a noise absorber, a wind orientation system.

As for the principle of operation of the presented equipment, it is very simple. When the wind blows, the blades of the windmill begin to rotate. As a result, the generator is turned on, which produces an electric current. Since it is constant, it is necessary to use an inverter. Thanks to him, you will receive alternating current at the output.

For the correct operation of the presented apparatus, it is necessary to use various measuring instruments that will help identify any inaccuracies in the operation of the windmill and eliminate them in time.

How to choose the right production model?

Choosing a wind turbine for a private house is quite simple. You just need to be guided by certain parameters. So, when buying, pay attention to such factors:

1. Wind direction. If the weather in your area is quite calm and quiet, or if the air flows are constantly moving in different directions, then perhaps such a device simply will not suit you. Although in this case you can use vertical wind turbines for your home.

2. Power. Here, too, it all depends on the area in which you will use the presented device. If the area where you are going to install it is not very favorable conditions for its operation, then you should not buy too powerful, and therefore expensive model. All your expenses simply will not pay off. For example, you can buy in this case a small apparatus with vertical blades.

3. Manufacturer. Here you need to focus on well-known manufacturers with a good reputation and positive reviews.

What tools and materials are needed for manufacturing?

So, for work you will need the following items:

Drill and drills;

Nippers and screwdrivers;

Clamps, washers, bolts, as well as stainless steel wire;

A working automobile, as well as a non-working acid battery with a capacity of 12 V;

An old bucket or pan made of stainless material, plastic can be used if necessary;

Voltmeter;

Wires with a cross section of 2.5 and 4;

Battery charging relay, as well as an automotive charge lamp control relay;

Switch-button for 12 V;

External communication box of large dimensions.

Manufacturing technology

A wind generator is suitable as the main source of heat only if there is a constant wind of sufficient strength in the area where it is located. In addition, in winter, the rotor may freeze, so the blades will not spin. In this case, equipment failure may occur. Therefore, try to protect the unit from moisture and ice freezing.