How to make a drain hole in the country. Depth and dimensions of the cesspool

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

To ensure a comfortable stay in a private house, its owner has to make a lot of efforts. This applies to the maintenance of all engineering communications, including the sewerage system, which in its own household consists of a cesspool and sewers.

A cesspool with a volume of 2 cubic meters is capable of processing waste, provided that no more than two family members live permanently in the house or the building is used only for temporary stay in it. The drain pit should be cleaned often, and this costs money and a lot, since you need to order a sewer machine. Experts recommend building a high-quality treatment plant on the site, pumping out the contents of which will be required much less frequently.

Choice of pit type

Before digging a drain hole, you should familiarize yourself with their main types:
  1. An earthen tank without a bottom is the most popular. Due to the lack of a concrete base, the liquid partially sinks into the soil and drains are collected very slowly in the tank. Cleaning it is done no more than once every few months.

    The design without a bottom, such as in the photo, has a number of serious drawbacks. Drainage and sewage gradually pollute the soil and groundwater, so the digging of drain holes should be carried out at a certain distance from the house, but not closer than 5 meters. In addition, this type of sewage structure loses its filtering capacity over time due to the gradual silting of the bottom.

    A two-chamber septic tank has a more complex design. The waste liquid first enters the first tank, where large wastes settle. The bacteria then proceed to process the contents. The first chamber is connected to another container by means of a drain pipe. Thus, a fine-grained cleaner liquid enters the second part of the septic tank. There, the drains are finally settled.

    The second container has a similar device as the first part of the treatment plant. In it, bacteria continue to process wastewater. Both chambers are cleaned approximately 1-2 times during the year. At the outlet of the septic tank, water is obtained that is quite suitable for technical use, for example, for irrigation. It can also be dumped into a nearby body of water.

    How to dig a drain hole correctly

    There are certain sanitary standards that regulate how to properly dig a drain hole. Initially, you should choose a place where the pit will be built. See also: "".

    The minimum depth of the drain pit should be 2 meters, despite the fact that the groundwater level is below this mark. Also, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from a water source, such as, for example, a well. The minimum distance from the well to the cesspool must in no case be reduced.

    Before digging a drain hole, you need to make sure that it will be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from a residential building. It is impossible for the sewage ditch to be on the slope of the site and far from the road (this is required in order to pump out sewage with the help of special equipment if necessary). See also: "".

    The pit is dug both manually and with the help of an excavator. Its width should exceed the estimated width of the pit by about 50 centimeters for interior lining. When calculating the depth of the future pit, the thickness of the bottom filling with a concrete solution is taken into account. In addition to the pit, you need to dig trenches for laying sewers.

    The walls of the drain pit and its cover

    A home craftsman needs to know not only how to dig a drain hole, but also be able to finish its walls.

    A drainage cushion is laid at the bottom of the pit, consisting of sand and several layers of rubble. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on it or a concrete screed is made. When a filter pit is created, a 20-cm layer of rubble, stones, broken brick or cinder block is poured onto its bottom.

    From materials for wall decoration you can use:

    • concrete mortar. Formwork is pre-installed with inserted rods, and then the walls are poured. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 7 centimeters;
    • Red brick. They lay out the walls from the bottom to the very top;
    • reinforced concrete poles. They are placed on the cement mortar in a row. In order to avoid collapse, limiters are made on both sides of the masonry;
    • concrete rings. A crane is required for their installation. The rings are placed on a concrete base, equipped at the bottom of the pit. The joints between the elements are coated with cement mortar;
    • the simplest solution is a ready-made container (plastic as an option) placed in a pit. Before you dig a drain hole, you need to know the parameters of the tank (purchased tank) so that they match its size.

    When finishing the walls, at the same time the pit is connected to the sewers. They should be connected tightly with the material of the walls, but not rigidly. This is done in order to prevent damage to the pipes in the process of soil sedimentation. It is advisable to use rubber connectors and adapters with a sufficient degree of strength. Outside, the pit is trimmed with roofing material in several layers or with oily clay.

    It is impossible to cover the hermetically drain pit, since it must communicate with the atmosphere. In addition, the lid must have a hole for pumping sewage through it. Therefore, slate sheets are the best option for covering the pit. To do this, wooden logs are placed on top of the pit. When the pit needs to be slightly opened, the sheets are removed and set aside. For such an overlap of the pit, it is required to make insulation for the winter.

    Another option is a concrete slab with a cleaning hole. Sometimes you can make an overlap from the boards. Regardless of the type of cover for the waste pit, rain and melt water should not enter the pit.

    Chemical preparations for septic tanks and pits

    For drain pits, there is a huge selection of various bioactivator products on sale. They are produced in the form of solutions, powders, tablets, etc. These drugs contain strains of microorganisms that can process human waste very quickly. Bacteria feed on organic matter and consume oxygen, which is dissolved in wastewater.

    As a result, microorganisms in the shortest possible time relieve the surrounding space near the pit from the stench and decompose sewage into separate components.

Developers of summer cottages and country houses often face the question: how to make a cesspool? Today we want to reveal a few "secrets" about the design of such a sewer system and the features of its device on our own site.

Types of cesspools

It is customary to distinguish between two main types of cesspools. The first is pits without a bottom. The second is a sealed cesspool. Below is a description of the device methods, advantages and disadvantages of each type of structure.

Cesspools without a bottom

Here it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that the construction of cesspools without a bottom for a toilet is not allowed by sanitary standards in cases where the daily volume of effluents exceeds 1 cubic meter.

This is due to the fact that the ingress of untreated sewage into the ground causes an increased risk of contamination not only of your site, but also of underground groundwater and a violation of the general environmental situation. Therefore, this option is considered the most acceptable for suburban areas where you do not permanently reside.

Cesspool designs are also still popular in small villages and towns, they do not require large labor costs and money spent on materials.

Today, the means of modern chemistry can quite successfully neutralize the harmful effects of raw sewage, but there is a ban on the construction of such pits in terms of the volume of wastewater, and it must be taken into account in the new construction of country houses and cottages.

More modern designs include overflow cesspools and septic tanks, which have a number of advantages over bottomless cesspools - no smell and a higher degree of wastewater treatment.

If you want a peat toilet in the house, then you need to include it in the layout of the house, which is described in more detail. The layout of the house determines the beauty of the finished building, the rational use of space and the convenience of its maintenance.

The device of sealed cesspools

The arrangement of such pits is quite simple - you just dig a pit of the right size, purchase an airtight container and bury it in the pit. As for the rules for laying pipes, they are similar to those described above.

To take into account the distances to a residential building and the boundaries of a neighboring site, you need to contact the local urban planning organizations.

A feature of sealed cesspools is that the effluents from them, as can be seen from the name itself, do not fall into the ground. Accordingly, from time to time you will be forced to call a sewage machine to pump out accumulated wastewater from the tank. It is quite natural that this will require certain regular financial costs, which will negate all the savings in start-up investments.

Additional problems also arise with the choice of location for a device of this design. It must be taken into account that it is necessary to provide free access to the hatch of the capacity of the sewage truck (the use of additional pipes when pumping out usually costs extra money).

It is for the above reasons that sealed pits are not very popular with homeowners, despite the fact that they are considered more environmentally friendly.

Today, septic tanks are generally recognized as the most effective way to arrange cesspools. But this is a completely different design, and it can hardly be attributed to the "classic" cesspools.

Video about the types and arrangement of cesspools

A cesspool is a special recess in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drain pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The device of the cesspool begins with the choice of a suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to select the optimal location:

  1. the pit should be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
  2. from the pit itself to the place of the fence, the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
  3. the distance to groundwater should be taken into account, it should be over 30 meters.

After that, they begin to calculate the optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

  • calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of the volume of wastewater;
  • taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily pass liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
  • it should be remembered that the soil layer should be at least 1 meter;
  • the optimum depth is about 3 meters.

materials

Now the most widespread types of materials used in the construction of a cesspool are:

  • bricks;
  • reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do;
  • tractor;
  • special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymeric materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the scheme of the cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, in order to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the crumbling of the walls, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. around the perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

A prerequisite is the presence of a vent equipped with a pipe for venting gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch that will provide access to the pit for its regular.

Manufacturing instructions

Consider the 3 most simple options for building a pit.

from brick

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit with a brick lining:

  1. to begin with, with the help of a thread and stakes, mark the selected area - on average, the parameters of the pit are 1 by 1.5 meters;
  2. to fill the pit at the end of the work, about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil will be needed, the rest of the earth mined during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
  3. if it is planned to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
  4. at the bottom of the excavated pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
  5. with a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
  6. after the concrete pad hardens, lay a sewer pipe (if any);
  7. after that, proceed with the laying of the facing walls, placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using a sand-cement mortar;
  8. to increase the life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
  9. at the end of the cladding, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
  10. make indentations in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
  11. from corrugated board, build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
  12. reinforce the overlap by using rods, reinforcement fastened together with wire;
  13. evenly fill the formwork with a concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
  14. carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

  1. dig a pit, maintaining the most round cross-sectional shape;
  2. mark the territory on which the pit will be located;
  3. fill the bottom with a layer of concrete mortar;
  4. build a metal frame using reinforcement bars, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
  5. after the concrete has hardened, you can begin to install the rings;
  6. the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with a concrete solution;
  7. the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
  8. after mounting all the rings, they should be closed with a concrete cover, the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using plastic containers:

  1. dig a pit, given that in this case it will be much larger in size than in the previous two cases;
  2. make the bottom as even as possible;
  3. pour a 15 cm layer of sand on the bottom and compact it well;
  4. gently lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
  5. connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
  6. fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
  7. pour a small volume of water to see how the reservoir compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, then the tank is not installed correctly.
  8. completely fill the pit with soil.

Required Tool

The main tool for the personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and a rope to pull out the earth. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove the soil from the pit. Have a tape measure or other measuring device handy. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that it will be necessary to make a mortar from cement, then if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, a separate container should be allocated for preparing the required volume of mortar.

Mounting highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations based on specific needs. Then follows the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings, it should be noted that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure during falls. The option with bricks and a tank can be mounted by hand. It should also be noted that in order to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be sealed with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which sewage will pass, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common Mistakes

Practice shows that often when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are made such as:

  • incorrect performance of preliminary calculations in terms of volume and location;
  • insufficient depth of the pit;
  • weak strengthening of the walls of the pit, as a result of which shedding occurs
    walls;
  • the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
  • neglect of the rules for the installation of concrete rings.

The question often arises before the owners of private houses,.

Do you want to apply modern methods for cleaning the toilet in the country? In you will learn how to choose bacteria for the toilet.

The choice of sewer pipes is a very important issue. Tips and tricks can be found at the link.

For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose the appropriate option:

  • a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
  • sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
  • septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

Through such a filtration cushion, water will slowly seep into the ground, being cleansed along the way.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

Or you can make it yourself by concrete pit or by installing concrete rings on a concrete base.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of discharge exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;

A large area is not required to organize a filtration field;

You can organize one septic tank for two houses;

Depending on the type of effluent, pumping is required every few years;

A full cleaning can be carried out once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;

- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;

- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

  1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. The upper fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and arrange the beds.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

Cesspool with their own hands


Cesspool with their own hands. Communications. For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant. Depending on the amount of water drained, you can choose the appropriate option: a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath; sealed cesspool - for a large one.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Residents of multi-apartment buildings do not have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste, everything is done by housing and communal services for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs, it perfectly performs the function of sanitary cleaning. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing the location of the cesspool

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private house. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site, the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

  • The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from the living quarters;
  • From the cesspool to the fence should be more than a meter;
  • When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well should be at a distance of at least 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary pit dug in the soil, in which the walls were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, cisterns, and other old containers in the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partial waste treatment are installed only when the daily volume is not more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. It is only necessary to put them in a dug hollow, connecting them with bolts. Then the hollow is sprinkled with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

According to the characteristic differences in the design of the pit for biowaste, they are divided into absorbing and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom, because of this, the liquid, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, is sent to the soil. Absorbing capacity is the most inexpensive and easy to arrange. Due to the partial infiltration of treated effluents into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbing type is selected if there is no need to divert a lot of wastewater. Large volumes of soil will not be able to accept and process. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because the waste, getting into the soil, will pollute it.

sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete / brick / gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make an airtight type cesspool, you will be provided with an absolute absence of odors characteristic of the toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the vacuum cleaners. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a plastic tank purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, but it will be necessary to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and reinforce the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are designs that not only perform deep cleansing, but also turn wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. Often they are a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete waste processing takes place.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation, a dense sand cushion with gravel thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as one decimeter screed is enough.

  • To increase the capacity of the reservoir, the sides of the tires must be cut;
  • A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter of about a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made of tires. The upper cut of the pipe is a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
  • The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

From above it will be necessary to make holes for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

  • It is necessary to dig a mine-type hollow, its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
  • A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future basis for the rings;
  • In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid can leave the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
  • The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will become difficult to pull the sediment out of the cesspool;
  • About a meter, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, gravel and gravel mixed with soil;
  • The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
  • At the end, a plate with a pair of holes is placed. One is for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
  • To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the well-filterer a little higher than the purification tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The method of construction is similar, but it is not necessary to make infiltration holes, it is necessary to completely concrete the bottom. Reinforcement of the lower platform made of concrete is recommended. So that the reinforcement does not get stuck in concrete, it must be slightly raised and fixed on pegs.

Walls should be sealed. Bitumen is considered an inexpensive internal insulator, clay is considered an external one. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Brick laying takes much longer than concrete rings.. At the bottom, a concrete screed is made, bricks are laid in a circle / square. Before proceeding with laying, you need to wait a week after creating a concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be slightly tilted in order to ensure the spontaneous departure of wastewater.

Toilet bin

Those who want to build a toilet also need to know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up for devastation. The cesspool is laid out with bricks or poured with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is covered with a sand-gravel mixture, gravel.

Other dimensions are set locally. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the latrine will do.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands


Details on how in a private house you can make a cesspool with your own hands. How to choose a place. The best options. Arrangement technology.

Cesspool in a private house - scheme, materials, device

A cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is able to collect domestic sewage without the risk of soil pollution. Despite the fact that the construction of a pit is simpler than, for example, building a septic tank, there are certain nuances that directly affect the efficiency of such a sewer system and, accordingly, the comfort of living.

Pros and cons of using

The advantages of cesspools are determined the simplicity of their design. You can build such a structure quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - they often use the most affordable materials, including used ones.

The minus of the cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out sewage. Depending on the circumstances (the volume of the pit, the number of people, the availability of water-consuming household appliances), the frequency may vary, but the services of a sewage truck will always be one of your expenses.

Cesspool pumping with sewage equipment

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise there may be problems with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to be aware of before you make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary "unreliability", if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause harmful substances to enter the soil of the garden or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The arrangement of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the suburban building is used. For a small amount of drains and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people constantly lives in the house, it is better to prefer a sealed drive. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of "well", the walls of which prevent runoff from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter made of crushed stone or gravel is arranged. Passing through it, the effluents are partially filtered, after which they enter the soil and, passing through it, are cleaned better. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call for vacuum trucks. It will not be possible to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

In the photo, a diagram of a cesspool in a private house without a bottom

expedient waste separation and arrangement of separate pit latrines. In this case, the toilet pit will fill up more slowly (and, accordingly, less likely to require the call of special equipment), and drains from the shower, bathroom, kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely go through the filter into the soil.

One of the options for separating wastewater into different tanks

Use of bioactivators contributes to the decomposition of impurities in wastewater, improving the quality of cleaning and slower filling. Only sludge remains in the tank, and purified water is removed through a filter. Bacteria found in the soil act in a similar way, however, if the total volume of effluents exceeds 1 cubic meter, they will not be enough to process such an amount of liquid.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house has "contraindications".

  • The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when their level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the pit can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration is noticeably reduced - runoff does not pass through the soil, being cleaned, but immediately enters the groundwater.
  • Clay soil has too low water permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
  • The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only accumulators. Effluent is to be pumped out using a sewage machine. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option has its advantages:

  • sanitary safety and exclusion of the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
  • Can be used on all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which involves the collection of effluents from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material that is suitable for its characteristics.

Cesspool Materials

Having considered the features of the materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular object, it is possible to decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most efficient and economical.

Finished goods

The use of finished products can significantly reduce the duration of construction work, and in some cases, their labor intensity.

  • Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, fixing with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing the joints. In most cases, tire cesspools do not have a bottom. The advantages of the option are low cost, easy and fast installation.

A cesspool made of tires is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewage

  • concrete rings- Another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used for the construction of both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on a concrete foundation. It is recommended to seal joints and treat the inner and outer surfaces of concrete products with waterproofing compounds (one of the most affordable options is ordinary bitumen, although special mastics can be purchased if desired) regardless of the type of product.

Concrete rings for sewers

  • Iron or plastic barrels require a minimum of effort during installation, but their significant drawback is their small volume. As a drive, they are only suitable for summer cottages, and to equip a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require a waterproofing coating on the outside and inside to protect against corrosion.

Plastic barrel as a sewer tank

  • Plastic storage models fixing to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating up during a flood. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the mounted structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to squeezing with soil.

Plastic storage tank

Installation of plastic eurocubes

Construction Materials

The use of building materials slightly increases the construction time. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and the layout of the site. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if it is more convenient to place such an option on the territory.

  • Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
  • Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

In certain situations, additional holes are made in the walls of the pit for better drainage.

Rules for choosing a place and volume

The volume of the cesspool should, according to sanitary standards, be no less than a three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be the value of 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. With a periodic visit to the dacha, it is less, and water is not consumed daily.

In a house with permanent residence for a family of 3, a pit of at least 1 cube is needed. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small holes than one large hole. The scheme of a cesspool in a private house should take into account the necessary distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the place where drinking water is taken, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. At the same time, storage models should be positioned so that the sewage truck can easily drive up to it.

The layout of the cesspool

Cesspool cleaning

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum trucks does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is possible to pump out only liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about how to clean a cesspool in a private house, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

  • Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4 ° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
  • Among chemicals, nitrate oxidizing agents are preferred, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to humans, domestic animals and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will be if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. For its device, plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private house will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant costs. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Cesspool in a private house: scheme, do-it-yourself device, video


Cesspool in a private house, scheme, device with filtering and storage tanks. Materials, features of various designs. Choice of location and volume, cleaning.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - an overview and comparison of design options

For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident may well build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple pit dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really does not want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant, it is covered with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a pumping hatch is laid on top.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the drains, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

The absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the ongoing cleaning cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that effluents from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of impermeable concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors inherent in drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container for collecting wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call vacuum trucks to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close groundwater level. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

  • To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
  • A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
  • The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

  • The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. It attracts the simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum trucks too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of bricks, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them

  1. It is necessary to dig a mine-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. Rings will need 3 pieces.
  2. Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, it is necessary to make a concrete screed, it will serve as a support base for the rings.
  3. In the lower ring, holes must be drilled every 10 cm so that purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.

Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed the limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silt sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.

    Approximately one meter constructed "well" should be filled with sand, gravel, broken bricks, crushed stone mixed with soil.

Approximately a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be covered with a "folk" filter composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure

Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filtering well with a sealed cleaning storage tank with overflow located just above.

Schematic design of a home-made septic tank: from a sealed cleaning tank, effluents are poured into an absorbing cesspool, from there purified water enters the filtration field

Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; on the outside, a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.

  1. The first thing is digging a pit according to the standard scheme for all pits.
  2. With his own hands, the owner will need to first make a pillow at the bottom of the mine from a mixture of concrete and gravel. It should get stronger for a week, during which a kind of foundation needs to be slightly “irrigated” with water.
  3. Then they order the delivery of the kit by car with a manipulator for the production of a consistent installation of the bottom, rings, cover.

A ready-made set of rings and floors made of concrete for the rapid construction of a cesspool

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands - design options and installation steps


Types and arrangement of cesspools. Do-it-yourself installation and arrangement.

For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident may well build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple pit dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really does not want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant, it is covered with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a pumping hatch is laid on top.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the drains, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

The absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the ongoing cleaning cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that effluents from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of impermeable concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors inherent in drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container for collecting wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call vacuum trucks to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close groundwater level. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

  • To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
  • A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
  • The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

  • The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. It attracts the simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum trucks too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of bricks, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them


Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; on the outside, a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.


There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

What else to read

What does "wear a hat on a butch" mean? In domestic places not so remote, all prisoners are divided into four prison castes (they are also called ...
How and how much you can drink coffee from chicory If doctors categorically forbid you to drink coffee, then do not despair! Chicory will be an excellent substitute for your favorite ...
What foods promote serotonin synthesis? We have all heard of the miraculous hormone of happiness. It is found in chocolate and bananas, after which the mood ...