How to make a wardrobe with your own hands? Homemade roomy wardrobe from chipboard How to make a beautiful wardrobe with your own hands.

There is no doubt, you will do an excellent job with this task. The most important thing is to correctly make all the calculations of the parameters of the future cabinet, the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will help you with this. And, of course, where without diligence and patience, tune in to a positive result - and you will succeed.

Step-by-step instruction

First, decide how you want to see your new wardrobe. If you have good artistic skills, try creating an image on paper, even better if it is a drawing of future furniture. To make it easier for you, you can use the example given in this article. Instructions on how to make a cabinet yourself will be described in detail here. The design of the furniture will be such that to create it, you will need a wall niche in your apartment. This type of furniture is very relevant, since the built-in wardrobe is roomy and does not take up extra space in the apartment.

Figure 1. Marking the vertical plane of the front of the cabinet.

The material for the future cabinet should be selected in accordance with the length and depth of your niche, the height of the ceiling is also taken into account. For this example, a chipboard with a laminated coating is most suitable. In an abbreviated version, this building material is known as chipboard. In order to build a cabinet, you will need a material that is approximately 16 mm thick. The construction market offers chipboard of various sizes, in this case 600 x 2440 is most suitable. A material of this size is convenient for the manufacture of all elements of the future cabinet.

What is the built-in wardrobe? First of all, these are doors, which are a furniture facade, then a pair of load-bearing racks, shelves and basement elements. In this example, the simplest option for assembling a cabinet with a solid facade will be described.

In order to make the cabinet yourself, you will need to go through the following stages of work: evaluate the niche, mark the plane of the facade of the future cabinet, mount vertical racks, make and install the roof, shelves, cornices, plinths and doors.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• electric planer;
• level;
• Screwdriver Set;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• drill;
• grinder or sandpaper for grinding;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue;
• sheets of chipboard.

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Niche and its dimensions

In the example given in this article, the size of the niche will be 3000 x 600 x 2650 mm. The length is 3 m, the depth is 0.6 m, and the ceiling height is 2.65 m.

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Cabinet front plane

A very important stage in the assembly of the cabinet is the marking of the vertical plane of the facade, look carefully at fig. 1. The fact is that the installation of all supporting racks in a vertical position is carried out on the basis of this markup.

When dimensioning the front plane, keep in mind that when installing vertical posts, gaps should not form along the walls.

Figure 2. Marking the farthest point (in the upper right corner).

To avoid this, select a plate of the most suitable size. In this example, a 60 cm wide slab is shown. In this regard, it is necessary to mark the farthest point on the intended plane. In order for you to correctly understand how to act, pay attention to the following figure. 2.

In the above example, the same point is marked on the right side of the upper corner. To all the remaining points of the vertical position racks are attached and, at the same time, decrease in width. In order to make it convenient to mount the vertical racks, you should draw a projection of the plane of the future cabinet in the form of a straight line. To do this, you can use a pencil or chalk. The niche indicated in this example has a length of 3 m. It is very important that the floor in the room is as flat as possible (in order to make sure of this, you should use the level). The next step is to install the racks.

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Vertical racks and their installation

Rack installation starts at the lowest point on your floor. Use the level to find it. In the case of a not perfectly flat floor and with the lowest point, for example, located on the left side, the installation of racks must be started from this place. The cabinet shown in this example will have a roof that is separate from the ceiling, since the length of the main plate is 2440 mm.

Markings should be applied to the floor, along which you have to set the verticals. To simplify the task, use the one shown in Fig. 3 drawing.

Here you can choose one of two ways:

• calculate the pitch of the racks, while taking into account the width of each door of your future cabinet;
• equal distances between the uprights in this case should be set "by eye". Then the doors are sawn at the same width. In the example given in this text, the cabinet will not have exactly equal distances between upright racks.

Figure 3. Scheme of mounting vertical racks.

The fact is that you have to install the doors with the help of hinges, and they will make it possible to completely cover the edges of the racks with a door. When installing doors on intermediate posts, it will be necessary to use other hinges that will cover only a third of the vertical post. Thus, the distance between the second and third posts you will get 8 mm more (an example is shown in the previous figure).

According to the cabinet assembly example given in the text, the next step is to install a vertical rack from the left edge. The vertical should be placed on the floor, using the leveling method, exclude its protrusion beyond the facade plane. To do this, it is worth arming yourself with an electric plane and a level. The rack must be level on both sides. Next, draw a line on the wall, which should correspond to the size of the end of the rack, and then temporarily remove the vertical rack. A horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the niche from the previously drawn line using a level. Thus, it is necessary to adjust each individual rack of the cabinet, focusing on the original height.

The next stage of work will be the installation of finished racks. To do this, you will need corners (it is better to use chrome). A minimum of 5 elements must be used for any vertical rack. With a couple of corners, the vertical is screwed to the floor, the rest will be needed for fastening to the wall. For the correct placement of the corners, mark the location of future cabinet shelves. The corners should be screwed to the panels using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16. Installation to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16, plastic dowels 6 x 35.

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Fabrication and installation of the cabinet roof

Using this text as an example, the upper part of the structure will be made of two elements. The roof measures 800 x 2958 mm and the additional element will measure 200 x 2958 mm. Thus, the thickness of the visor will increase. The design of the roof of the cabinet shown in fig. 4, as you can see, has an arcuate visor. Its radius is 12.7 m.

Figure 4. Construction of the cabinet roof.

In order to cut the arc, you will need a jigsaw, all uneven surface areas should be carefully sanded. The top of the cabinet is almost finished, next it should be used as a template in order to make the overlay. Using PVC edges, the edges of the main element and the additional lining are glued.

The radius edges of the parts should also be glued. To do this, you will need a PVC edge and glue (you can use liquid nails glue). The glue should be applied in a strip of about 1 m. In the next step, the edge should be glued to the end of the panel. Proceeding in this way, paste the rest. Using a piece of cotton fabric, the edge is gently smoothed to the plate. Next, using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35, it is necessary to pull off the cabinet roof and additional panel.

After you have completely prepared the roof for installation, proceed to install it to the vertical posts. To attach the roof to each rack, you will need two corners. In this case, the distance between the edge of the corner and the front edge should not be less than 16 mm.

You may not have found a suitable design. Or it didn't work out within the budget. Or, perhaps, you just wanted to make something with your own hands, thereby making your family proud of yourself. Follow our instructions, make a little effort - and very soon your hallway, loggia or bedroom will be decorated with a nice and functional closet.

Where to begin?

So, you have decided to make a real masculine (and maybe feminine) act and assemble a closet with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide for what purpose you are doing it, how it should look and what functions it should perform - in other words, organize the design.

This piece of furniture will serve you for many years, so the preparatory stage should be approached with special attention:

• Decide in which room you will place the new wardrobe. Whether it will be a living room, a loggia or a corridor is important, because wardrobes for different rooms, as a rule, differ in materials, fittings, and accessories. Then choose a place in the room and find out what size the planned product should be.
• Calculate the design parameters: width, height and depth, the space between the shelves, the number of shelves, hooks, hanger bars or other accessories.

• Decide on the shade and design of the intended piece of furniture.
• What will be in the locker, traditionally, determines how the interior space will look. There are the following principles: “raw” things are placed aside, the most necessary and small things are stored at eye level, “dry” things are on the top shelves, and valuable things are in drawers. For example, you can’t place a section for outerwear or umbrellas in the middle - dampness from it will spoil things on the right and left. If it is placed in a corner, then the moisture will go out. Boxes or shelves for bedding should not be placed above the floor - there should be a separation from the surface of about forty centimeters, so that dust and moisture do not enter. Better move them to the top section. The more carefully you think over the placement of the contents, the smaller the width of the shelves, which means that space is saved. It is worth remembering that a successful layout is a guarantee of convenient operation and a long service life of a piece of furniture.

Popular Models

There are many models of cabinets, which, as a rule, can be made from the same materials, but serve different purposes.

• For clothes. Designs of this type are distinguished by the presence of special components. In the closet for storing clothes, there must be a bar for hangers (transverse or longitudinal), shelves and hooks. You can also add a mirror, drawers for underwear and a shoe cabinet to this list. Very often, such a piece of furniture is built-in or wall-mounted - it is installed along the wall using an artificial plasterboard niche. A frame is assembled from wood or metal profiles, which is attached to the floor. Then it is sheathed with drywall, the structure is puttied and sanded. After this stage, the shelves and doors (hinged or "compartment") are installed.

• Shoe. There are two types of shoe storage. The first - as an integral part of the closet for storing clothes. The second is like a separate chest of drawers, on the lid of which keys, gloves, hats and other small things can be stored. Shelves do not have to be wooden - it is possible to choose the type of dish dryer. Metal lattice shelves combine functionality and attractive appearance. Be sure to leave the bottom of the cabinet open, otherwise excess water will accumulate inside. The depth of the shelves should match the length of the box from the largest pair of shoes in your apartment.

• Book. Models of bookcases are divided into open and closed. The latter protect books from dust, moisture and light, but the former look better in the interior. There are also cabinet cabinets (the most common), modular cabinets (allowing you to combine elements and change the appearance), built-in cabinets (with a sliding door system), and corner cabinets. Most often, these pieces of furniture are assembled from chipboard or MDF. The classic depth of the bookcase is 400 millimeters, the height is 2 meters, and the width is 800 millimeters. Most books and magazines fit comfortably inside at this rate. Shelves can be mounted not on the corners, but crash into the sides of the cabinet. For the aesthetics of furniture, use decorative moldings - overhead convex strips.

• Swing. This view is one of the simplest and most familiar for Russian apartments. The design can be very different, and the content can include shelves, drawers, bedside tables or hanger bars. These cabinets are used to store some personal items, clothes, utensils, hobbies or crafts - in general, for anything.
• Embedded. In addition, you can assemble a closet placed in a niche or under the stairs, if possible. These models allow you to save space and refresh interior design.

Options for different rooms

The design and internal content of the cabinet depends on the purpose of the room and the required functionality.

• If you are looking for storage for a small living room or a narrow corridor, prioritize closets (built-in models) that do not take up much space, but allow you to fit a large number of things.
• If you need to choose a wardrobe for the bedroom, then pay attention to the roomy designs that accommodate a variety of shelves, drawers and modules, bedside tables, rods, racks and hooks. Fits both wardrobes and regular swing models.
• Kitchen sets usually consist of hinged cabinets with a large number of drawers.

• In the children's room, non-standard models look good, for example, modular bookcases, which are distinguished by bright colors.
• For the bathroom, the simplest swing models with a couple of shelves and mirror surfaces are suitable.
• The entrance hall is a place for built-in structures, including corner and shoe chests.
• Wardrobes on balconies and loggias are equipped with numerous shelves and compartments and are hinged structures. It should be borne in mind that a chipboard cabinet can only be installed on an insulated loggia, otherwise the shields will begin to warp, and the furniture will not serve you for a long time. Natural wood, properly treated with water repellents, will last much longer, even with excessive moisture. Open shelves are the simplest option for a balcony cabinet.

What to make?

Materials for the production of cabinets are not very diverse.

Furniture panels or plates

Chipboard, chipboard and MDF are panels or boards made of pressed chips, fibers and sawdust. MDF is a fibreboard made from very fine chips by hot pressing. This material is dense, flexible and easy to process. Fasteners inside such plates last much longer, in addition, they do not deform when temperature and humidity changes. MDF is quite environmentally friendly and is highly durable.

Chipboard - chipboard - consists of pressed and glued sawdust and large chips with the addition of binder resins. Such material is quite fragile and is afraid of water, but it is possible to achieve its exceptionally flat surface. Chipboard is usually chosen for bookcases and wardrobes. Plates win in terms of cost in comparison with MDF and chipboard.

Chipboard - laminated chipboard, the surface of which is treated with a special melamine film. Commonly called "laminate". The material is resistant to moisture and has a wide color palette. Chipboard is much stronger than chipboard due to the fact that the coating is pressed into the structure of the board itself.

All three varieties are quite cheap, easy to process, strong and durable.

Plywood

Plywood is a durable material that does not dry out, is environmentally friendly and does not require additional processing due to its smooth surface. It is sold in whole sheets, so it does not require docking. If you purchase processed and varnished plywood, you will save time due to the fact that the cabinet will only need to be assembled.

Cardboard

Making furniture out of boxes is no longer a fun hobby - it's now a serious trend in interior design. Having picked up high-quality cardboard, you can make not only a wardrobe, but also a chest of drawers, a table and even a bed. Such furniture is eco-friendly, cheap, mobile and surprisingly durable. The only negative is that with a long stay in a humid environment, it loses its suitability for use. To give strength to cardboard, it is customary to use parquet varnish. You can work with this material by layer-by-layer gluing sheets, creating frame objects that are subsequently pasted over with paper, modular structures and even origami. Cardboard furniture should be symmetrical, or with additional supports, and with the presence of transverse parts. Keep in mind that the thicker the cardboard, the stronger it is, and the light cardboard is not as strong as the dark one.

When designing furniture, remember that 60 millimeters will be occupied by furniture decor, so this length must be taken into account when drawing up drawings.

solid boards

A wooden cabinet made of pine or spruce will serve you for decades without changing its qualities. In addition, wooden furniture always looks elegant and weighty. Their cost depends on the size, the presence of damage, dryness and breed. Pine and spruce are the most commonly chosen, and hardwoods are also popular.

clapboard

Cabinets lined with clapboard can be placed on the balcony or in the pantry. This material is cheap, durable and aesthetic. When choosing a material, it is recommended to use hardwood lining, as conifers deteriorate from long exposure to the sun.

Drywall

It is possible to make a drywall cabinet, but still not recommended. This material is rather heavy and fragile, intended for finishing something. Therefore, it is not possible to store some tangible load in a drywall cabinet.

A drywall sheet sags within six months, even if nothing lies on it.

accessories

Furniture fittings for cabinets include:

• fastenings for shelves, hangers and mirrors;
• furniture hinges;
• roller and ball guides;
• handles and decorative fittings;
• heels and legs;
• retractable mechanisms.

Everything that is used for fastening to the wall (bolts, ties and other hardware), as well as for opening and closing doors and drawers, must be made of quality materials.

How to make a drawing yourself?

At first glance, assembling a cabinet is a rather troublesome and resource-intensive business, but do not forget about all the possible advantages:

• you personally select the materials, which means you have the opportunity to save money and purchase only the highest quality;
• having understood the instructions, you will understand that making a cabinet with your own hands is not so difficult: ordinary tools are used, and materials are easily processed;
• making furniture can turn into a hobby that pays tangible dividends.

Having completed the preparatory stage, proceed to the creation of the drawing. The planned cabinet model needs to be transferred in detail on a sheet of A4 paper. First, draw the frame of the future product, indicate the dimensions of the walls, doors and bases. Then transfer the shelves and internal components to the paper. Again, on the diagram, indicate the length and width. Consider the dimensions of the structure and the layout of the apartment, calculate the number of shelves, hooks, rods, the presence of mirrors and their placement in the interior space. Do not forget that the width of ordinary clothes hangers is 40-42 centimeters, and when you hang something on them, it becomes even larger. Use a measuring tape, pencil, and paper to complete this step.

Also, drawings can be made in special computer programs: Autocad or Basis Furniture Maker.

When the drawings are ready, you need to start sawing the parts. However, it is quite difficult to do this at home - the machine is very expensive, and using a jigsaw leads to chips, so give sketches with dimensions for manufacturing to professionals who will do it quickly and efficiently.

When you get the finished parts, go shopping for accessories. Basically, you will need confirmations, rivets, guides, corners and holders. Consider the design features and your own preferences.

When choosing a system for opening doors, do not forget that they can open to the sides, up and down, or be a "compartment".

How to assemble: step-by-step instructions for assembling a wall cabinet

The first step is to make markings for shelf supports and drawer guides, depending on where you want to see them and in what quantity. Make sure the parts are parallel. Attach fasteners and, if possible - the cabinet is located at the junction of two walls - install shelves. If desired, secure them with glue and nails. Reinforce doors with awnings. Also screw the guides if you are assembling a wardrobe.

Then you should choose the right drill and symmetrically drill holes for confirmations for butt joints. Do not forget about the holes for rods, shelves and partitions.

Start assembling the frame against the wall: arrange furniture panels, plywood or solid boards according to the drawings, connect them together using nails, self-tapping screws and glue. Place the frame a few millimeters lower than the ceiling level. Install the side frame first, then the front frame. Leave gaps between cabinet and frames.

After connecting the frames, align the position with wedges.

If you are using chipboard, then add a decorative edge along the seams. Glue it with an iron through a towel, and then cut off the excess edge. The iron must be set to three-quarters of the maximum power, and then held on top of the edge attached with the adhesive side to the chipboard. After that, iron the hot edge with a dry cloth to press the edges tighter, and cut off the excess with a knife. If you are using unpainted boards, then it's time to "ennoble" the cabinet with paints, sandpaper and varnish. Roughness is best treated with fine-grained sandpaper wrapped around an object of a suitable size and shape. You can also use special furniture tapes.

Attach the doors to the body using hinges or special fittings.

Fix the caps on the confirmations, the color of which should match the color of the entire cabinet. Install door handles and decorative elements: lights, mirrors and more. The cabinets are made from combustible materials, so indoor lighting should be low-wattage 12W halogen bulbs. In no case do not use a permanent 220 W supply - this is very dangerous. The light in the cabinet should be powered from an AC / DC adapter plugged into a socket with double-insulated wires.

Examples and variants

When assembling cabinets of various models, there are rules.

swing

If you are making a swing wardrobe, then carefully measure the dimensions of the doors. Vertically, everything should be millimeter to millimeter, otherwise they will not fit, or they will not completely cover the internal space. The width of the sashes should be two to three millimeters less than the opening, since they are attached to special elements that also have their own width.

Mounting of fasteners for shelves and hooks must be carried out at the base of the cabinet. Opposite corners should be placed strictly horizontally and check the correct installation with a level. Swing doors are installed at the end of assembly. Legs are often attached to the bottom of the swing cabinet. Kitchen legs are a good choice as they are low cost and adjustable in height.

Thanks to the legs, all the weight will not go to the bottom, and it will not sink in a short time.

Angular

Start the installation of the corner cabinet by attaching the metal corners to the walls and ceiling, which will further save the doors from being skewed. Then assemble the frame, mount the guides, install the door and the internal "contents". Corner cabinets are triangular, L-shaped, trapezoidal and five-walled.

shoe rack

The shoe cabinet is made from an outer frame made of chipboard and a shelf with a front panel and partitions. Its height is measured by several shelves, and its width is measured by the maximum size of a shoe box.

Balcony

The standard depth of the cabinet on the balcony is 600 millimeters, and the width corresponds to the width of the room. To make the structure stable, the height is set from floor to ceiling without any gaps. The distance between the shelves is usually no more than 400 millimeters. Doors are assembled from boards that are fixed to the frame vertically or horizontally, or inserted according to the tenon-groove principle.

coupe

When assembling a wardrobe, it is worth remembering the following: if you plan a few doors, then, on the one hand, the design will be more convenient, but, on the other hand, the likelihood of warping and jamming is stronger. The segment of the overlap of the valves should be at an interval of 50-70 centimeters. If the overlap is too narrow, gaps will appear, and if the overlap is too large, the layout of the cabinet will be difficult. Also, the size of the door leaf should not exceed the size of the narrowest of the shelves, otherwise you simply cannot use it. In addition, take into account the allowable overlap, from which subtract 40-50 millimeters of the width of the side profiles, without which the doors will break through the walls.

There are three systems for hanging wardrobe doors.: double rail with bottom support, with top support and monorail.

All of them have their pros and cons, so make your decision based on the parameters, furniture function and the amount of money you are able to spend.

Modular

The modular cabinet is usually made of chipboard. The modules of the simplest furniture are rectangular composite sections that can be placed at your discretion and thereby determine the design of the room. This design consists of the main base section and additional ones attached to it. In the case when the modules are attached only to the base section, they are called attached. Transition sections are used to connect other modules. Corner ones are connected to the base, but they are also installed with transitional parts. Open ones are attached to standard and transitional modules. The modules are attached using fasteners, which are special ties, screw or conical.

in a niche

In the case when you decide to place furniture in a niche, you kill two birds with one stone: there is no need to mount the side and top panels, since the walls and ceiling of the room play their role. It remains only to place the shelves, rods and hooks and make doors, which are usually coupe models. To install the doors, attach the upper and lower rods, and then place the door leaf itself.

under the stairs

"Podlesnichnaya" furniture is mounted according to the same algorithm. Often they are chosen by the owners of private houses, and stairs to the second floor are used to create them. The free space under the stairs can be turned into a wardrobe for storing clothes, a pantry for food supplies or a closet for household needs, a bookcase or a wine cabinet. When crafting a piece of furniture, do not forget about the finishing work of the staircase wall - cover it with drywall or wallpaper.

Install shelves using wooden beams, the length of which is equal to the depth of the cabinet. To mount the doors, you will need a door frame that matches the dimensions of the future cabinet. It is appropriate to decorate a new piece of furniture with the help of a self-adhesive film, photo wallpapers and various fittings. You can install sliding doors, but keep in mind that you will not be able to open the cabinet to its full width, so give preference to hinged doors or various combinations.

You will learn more about how to make a wardrobe with your own hands in the following video.

In any case, the sequence of actions is important. The end result depends on how clearly and clearly the whole process is presented. Understanding this, understanding all the upcoming difficulties, allows you not to abandon the assembly in the middle due to the lack of some components, spare parts, tools, etc. Instructions on how to make a wardrobe with your own hands step by step will allow you not to miss a single detail.

dimensions

Initially, you need to decide where the cabinet will stand. This will allow you to decide what size it will be.

• Height. Under the ceiling, technically, only built-in structures can be implemented. If the cabinet is cabinet, with side walls and a roof, the distance from the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm. Otherwise, you simply won’t lift it because of the diagonal of the sidewalls - after all, any “lying” cabinet is assembled. The removable mezzanine greatly facilitates assembly and allows you to reduce the gap between the cabinet roof and the ceiling to 10 cm.
• Depth. For a wardrobe with hinged doors, the optimal depth is 50-55 cm, with a longitudinal bar for hangers. In a compartment, sliding doors “eat up” about 10 cm, so the depth increases to 60–65 cm. unstable.
• Width. Arbitrary parameter, limited only by the length of the wall. For wardrobes with hinged facades, two-door, three-door and four-door options will be easier to assemble.

The first step - measurements - is especially important at the stage of designing built-in and partially built-in cabinets.

Wardrobes, as a rule, are installed from wall to wall, along the entire length of the room or in a niche. It is important to take into account the curvature of the walls and the blockages horizontally and vertically. Based on the smaller size.

Wardrobe on the balcony also requires extreme thoughtfulness and accuracy when measuring. In conditions of limited space, any design flaws are fraught with a complete alteration due to the impossibility of installation.

Cases of cabinets on the balcony are always prefabricated! The sidewalls are divided in height, at least in two places - for the mezzanine or lower pedestal. Otherwise, you simply cannot assemble a closet on a narrow balcony.

Design and content

After accurate measurements of the placement, the internal filling of the cabinet is considered. It must comply with the functional purpose and the basic rules of storage ergonomics.

When planning, it is important not to lose sight of the ratio of sections to the front part.

1. Sliding wardrobe doors are always the same width. Each of them should hide a full-fledged storage place, without overlaps and "dead" zones. The movable mechanisms used (pantographs, baskets, drawers, trousers, etc.) must slide out freely.
2. Swing fronts can be of different widths and heights, combined with drawers and open niches with shelves. But in terms of design, symmetrical compositions, the alternation of identical elements, look better.

According to the drawing, the details of blanks from chipboard (detailing) are calculated, cut maps and a list of accessories are drawn up. According to these data, it is already possible to judge the upcoming ones with your own hands.

What hand tool will you need?

It all depends on what you decide to do on your own and what to delegate.

1. Cutting details. To cut chipboard and align the ends under the edge sticker, you will need a jigsaw with a wood file, a grinder or a router, sandpaper, a tape measure, a metal ruler and a pencil.
2. Kromlenie. The melamine edge is glued with an iron, the excess is cut off with a clerical knife and sanded off with sandpaper. It is difficult to glue the PVC edge at home, it will require special glue and a milling cutter.
3. Drilling parts. Before assembly, the blanks are drilled for fasteners using a drill or puncher. You will need drills with a diameter of 5.7 mm, a confirmed drill. As well as drills 10, 15, 20 mm, if eccentrics (minifixes) are used, 26/35 mm for installing swing door hinges. Thin awl for marking.
4. Assembly. A screwdriver with Phillips and hexagon sockets, a screwdriver or a ratchet for tightening fasteners in narrow places.
5. Auxiliary tool. The most common one available to any craftsman: a set of screwdrivers and wrenches, a vice, pliers, wire cutters, a chisel, a hacksaw, a shoe knife, a square, a marker, a sharpener.

Purchase of fasteners

You can get acquainted with the list of structural fittings. Furniture fasteners are counted by the number of holes and are purchased with a margin. But the functional and facial accessories are purchased in strict accordance with the required quantity.

Sawing hull parts and seaming ends

At home, sawing sheet material to the size of blanks professionally and accurately is unlikely to succeed. How to process the ends: a melamine edge sticker with an iron is more an option for country, budget furniture.

Usually sawing and gluing PVC edges are ordered from the respective companies. Typically, these services are offered in the same place where chipboard, fiberboard, and edging materials are sold.

The price for a cut can be calculated in different ways:

• Along the length of all cuts, per meter. The more small parts in the cabinet design in the form of shelves, planks and drawers, the more expensive the cut will cost.
• For cutting the sheet. It does not matter how many details, it is important to fit into the sheet. Therefore, according to the molding, it is more profitable to cut large-sized things (for example, closets), and according to sheets - small ones (chest of drawers, bedside tables, etc.).

The rolling of visible ends is calculated per linear meter. PVC is cheaper with a thickness of 0.4-1 mm, more expensive - with a thickness of 2 mm. Therefore, the inner parts of the cabinet are more profitable to roll the PVC thinner.

front part

Furniture design determines the design of the facade. In addition to the doors and the way they are attached to the body, the following can be issued:

• Visor. Baguette (cornice), built-in lamps, arched structures.
• Base. An interesting plinth, decorative legs, adjustable gliders.
• Sidewalls. Overlays in the form of carved columns, as well as open corner shelves of various designs.

Hinged doors

In budget options, cabinet facades are sawn together with the body, from laminated chipboard and PVC 2 mm thick is rolled up. Sometimes furniture design involves a contrasting combination, for example, a dark body and a light facade. Then, under the facades, a separate sheet of laminated chipboard of the desired color is purchased.

Also, cabinet doors can be made of MDF with PVC film, plastic, veneer, enamel painting. Or order from an array.

The hinged facade can be laid on and internal, depending on this, furniture hinges are selected. There are also “own” hinges for glass and corner facades.

compartment doors

Sliding systems for compartment doors can be supporting and suspended. But, as a rule, they consist of:

• Track, top and bottom rail.
• Roller kit.
• Door panels.

Preparation of parts for assembly, drilling

With the help of special furniture programs, you can draw up specifications for drilling parts for subsequent assembly.

This greatly facilitates the process, makes it more accurate and accurate. You can also make markings for fasteners manually. The main thing is to have a spatial representation.

The process of drilling parts is also called "additive".

Under the confirmation, you need a hole “in the mouth” with a diameter of 8 mm from the front of the part and a hole “in the end” with a diameter of 5 mm. Under the dowel, as a hidden fastener, drilling “into the mouth” is done from the inside and with a diameter of 5 mm. The eccentric screed also has its own marking nuances.

The places for attaching hinges, guide boxes and other mechanisms are also marked, holes for shelf holders are drilled.

Cabinet assembly

If the parts were added correctly, then the cabinet will assemble simply and quickly, like a designer.

1. The process begins with the preparation of parts for assembly. The thrust bearings are screwed, the shelf supports are driven in, the guides are attached. Boxes are assembled separately.
2. The assembly of the cabinet itself begins with attaching the bottom and roof of the cabinet to the sides.
3. Next, the plinth, thrust bearings to the base or legs are screwed.
4. Stiffeners, fixed shelves are installed.
5. Attached back wall.
6. The cabinet rises, moves to the right place.
7. Drawers, rods for clothes and other elements of internal filling are installed.
8. The final stage is the installation of doors and their adjustment.

The larger the closet, the harder it is to assemble it alone. Therefore, it is better to involve a partner - he will support the parts and accessories so that you can screw them evenly.

Left section assembly

center assembly

Right section assembly

Here, in general terms, is the entire description of the process of making a cabinet with your own hands step by step. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with other materials on our site - they will help you in developing a furniture design project, calculating details and final assembly with installation on site.

A wardrobe is one of the most necessary pieces of furniture that every apartment definitely has, but if you have moved to a new apartment or decided to update the interior, sooner or later the question will arise that this very useful element needs to be updated.

Of course, it is much easier to walk around furniture stores, examine the product in various online stores and buy it there, because this is exactly what the vast majority do.

Benefits of making your own cabinets

But a do-it-yourself cabinet has significant advantages:

Material. You can choose exactly the material that suits you and meets all requirements. There are a lot of materials from which you can make a wardrobe. This is chipboard, and MDF, and natural wood, and even drywall.

The size. A hand-made wardrobe can be absolutely any size. You can make a wardrobe of such a size that will ideally fit the dimensions of your apartment.

Design. Purchased cabinets often cannot boast of a wide variety of colors and patterns, which cannot be said about homemade ones. A do-it-yourself wardrobe can be absolutely any color and wear absolutely any patterns.

Cabinet form. The shape of the cabinet depends on its function, the most common types of cabinets are: built-in, freestanding, corner and diagonal-corner. You must decide exactly which form will be the most optimal for you.

Allergy free guaranteed. It often happens that the coating with which the cabinet is painted (paint, varnish, impregnation) can cause an allergic reaction, especially in a child.

A cupboard covered with unknown mixtures and standing in an enclosed space can be a health hazard. The advantage of a do-it-yourself cabinet is that you choose the coating yourself, taking into account all the features.

Where to begin?

To start making a cabinet with your own hands is to create a detailed drawing, on which it will be depicted in great detail. In addition to the drawing, precise dimensions and a calculation of the required number of parts are required.

Having made the drawing, once again make sure that all dimensions are accurate, have no errors and exactly correspond to the place that you have chosen for the cabinet.

Now, having a clear idea of ​​​​the dimensions that are needed, you need to choose materials.

You can take materials left over from other projects, or you can go to a specialty store and purchase everything you need (including door handles, shelf fasteners, door rails, mirrors, a jigsaw and much more)

How to make details?

In order to make the necessary details, you will need a tape measure, a drawing drawn up in advance and a simple pencil. On the material that you have purchased, make serifs corresponding to the desired dimensions and connect them. Roulette will help you with this.

How to assemble a closet?

First you need to create the frame of the future cabinet so that further assembly is less problematic. To do this, you need to drill identical holes on the two side walls and mark the places for future fasteners, and then assemble everything with a screwdriver.

After you have assembled the main frame, you need to move on to attaching the doors (if they are supposed to be in the cabinet model you have chosen). If the doors are ordinary, then they need to be hung on hinges, and if you have chosen a wardrobe, then you need to install and respond to special guides.

After you have assembled the frame and installed the doors, it's time to install the shelves. This should be done carefully, after measuring everything with a tape measure and making symmetrical serifs so that the shelves are at the right right angle.

Also, a small but very important device will help for this - a level. It will help you understand at what angle you are going to install the shelves.

According to the previously applied outlines, you need to attach the fasteners, and the shelves to them. Their number and diameter depends solely on your desire and the purpose for which the cabinet is made.

How to distribute shelves?

If you are making a bookcase, the shelves can be spaced a little apart. You can mark this distance on the frame using a book of the most common format. So the books will definitely stand as they should.

If you make a wardrobe with your own hands, then the shelves should be at an average distance from each other so that a sufficient number of stacks of clothes can fit on them, and one section of the wardrobe can be made without shelves at all and then clothes can be placed there on hangers.

If you are making a shoe cabinet, then the shelves should be made very close to each other, focusing on the average height of your shoes. This will help save space and not make the cabinet unnecessarily large.

How to decorate a closet?

If your cabinet is made of natural wood, first you need to cover it with a special solution that will prevent the wood from becoming rotten over time. After that, the cabinet can be left in a natural color, or it can be painted using a special paint for wood.

If a monochromatic closet seems too uninteresting to you, you can arm yourself with a simple pencil, brushes and acrylic paints, draw sketches with a simple pencil and circle it all with acrylic paint.

The patterns that a wardrobe can be decorated with are very different, ranging from circles and stripes to complex ornate patterns.

After any staining, the cabinet must be varnished so that its appearance remains attractive for a long time.

How are wardrobes-beds and wardrobe-ladders made?

Wardrobe beds have recently become increasingly popular, especially among teenagers and people living in very small apartments.

The wardrobe bed is quite easy to make. To begin with, a frame is made as for the most ordinary bed, but higher, and then shelves and doors are built in down. Such cabinets save a lot of space and look modern and interesting.

The only thing is that it will be quite difficult to climb onto such a bed without help, so it’s worth putting a chair or a small ladder nearby.

You can also use a ladder cabinet for these purposes, which will help save even more space. The simple yet strong sections of shelves stack on top of each other to create a ladder and are firmly connected. Such a ladder can be attached to the bed or made a movable element that can be rearranged to any desired location.

Conclusion

Making a wardrobe with your own hands or buying it in a store is everyone's choice, but a DIY wardrobe has more advantages than a purchased one.

Such a wardrobe will definitely look good, because its dimensions are ideal for the space in which it is located.

Make a closet for everyone, even without anyone's help, so you can not be afraid that nothing will work out.

It's time to throw away the old furniture that doesn't fit all the things and takes up half the room! A great alternative to a bulky wardrobe is a wardrobe. It will unload space in any small-sized apartment and will be a great addition to a modern interior. This design can be done by hand. To do this, you need to properly develop a drawing and have the skill of carpentry work.

Options for new furniture

Any wardrobe is selected exclusively for the room, taking into account its features: footage, configuration, location, placement of the rest of the furniture. However, there are three most popular types of furniture of this type:

• Built-in wardrobe. As a rule, it is located in a niche.
• Corner cupboard. Occupies the corner of the room, saving space.
• Walk-in closet. It requires a lot of space, but at the same time it contains almost all things.

Dimensions

Before starting work, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future design, made by yourself. Based on them, create a drawing. It is recommended to use the standard size range.

1. Depth. The optimal depth of such furniture, together with hinged doors, is 60 cm. So hangers with clothes will fit freely in the closet (55 cm is required for the top one, 50 cm for a regular one). If the cabinet is planned with sliding doors, then it is worth adding 10 cm to the compartment design.
2. Width. The minimum size in this case is determined independently, but you should not make a design with a width of less than 40 cm.
3. Height. Theoretically, the height of the furniture can be any, but from a practical point of view, 240 cm is an acceptable height. If you need a wardrobe higher, then you can make a mezzanine on it with your own hands.

Material selection

The material from which the cabinet will be made plays an important role, as it determines the entire structure.

• Clapboard and wood are fashionable and popular materials for home furniture. But the humidity in the niches will be high, so they can warp and exfoliate. If you need a wardrobe for clothes made of just such materials, then they should be soaked with hot drying oil or a water-polymer emulsion,
• Drywall. Fine in work, but it is difficult to make a cabinet out of it. The material will be heavy, brittle and fragile for this design.
• Laminate, MDF, fiberboard. Great for work. They are resistant to temperature fluctuations, cut well without cracking. These materials need to be taken in high or medium density.

Design calculation

The most difficult thing when creating furniture with your own hands is to make the correct calculations, according to which the wardrobe will be assembled, as well as to correctly cut the selected material. Let's take as a basis a wardrobe with parameters 2020x625x2320 mm from a sheet of high-strength chipboard.

The cabinet consists of the following parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 - vertically standing parts, 6 - upper part, 7 - lower part, 8, 9, 10 - shelves.

Options:

• Extreme racks (1, 4) - 2288 = 2320–32 mm (chipboard sheet thickness in the lower and upper parts); depth - 625 mm. Total 2288x625 mm.
• Upper and lower parts (6, 7) - 2020x625 mm.
• Positions 2, 3 - central posts, their size depends on the height where the hanger bar will be fixed; usually it is 1900 mm. Thus, the height is 1900 mm, the width is 525 mm, plus 100 mm is left for the door opening system.
• Detail 5 - size 372 mm.
• Mezzanine shelf (9) - 1988x525 mm (it is considered as follows: the length of the structure minus the total thickness of the chipboard sheets, the depth and space for the sliding system).
• Side shelves (8) - 450x525 mm.
• Shelf (10) - 1056 mm.
• The back wall is equal to the parameters of the cabinet - 2020x2320 mm. It can be made not from a single sheet, but from pieces, but they can be divided according to the size of the central racks.

You will also need movement systems for doors. There are 2 options: aluminum and steel - both strong and reliable.

Instructions for creating

Required tools:

• electric drill with puncher,
• screwdriver,
• saw for woodworking,
• building level,
• hammer, tape measure, carpenter's meter, square,
• spatulas - wide and narrow,
• paint brushes.

Step 1. Sawing

The easiest way is to give a sheet of chipboard to be cut by a professional than to do it yourself. The fact is that even a bevel of one millimeter will lead to skew. Moreover, some sawn parts need to be covered with an edge.

If it was decided to cut it yourself, then it is important to pay attention to the following features:

• For the strength and aesthetics of furniture, its back wall must be flush, but certainly not imposed on the frame. To do this, when sawing, 4 frame elements are made (2 sidewalls, bottom, top panels).
• The dimensions of the internal elements (vertical rack, shelves) must be smaller than the external ones (sidewalls, top, bottom).

Edging can be done with your own hands. The edge is applied to the end with the wrong side and ironed along the entire length with a heated iron with the “steaming” mode. After that, the place must be ironed with a dry cloth and left for a while to cool it down.

Step 2. Assembly

First of all, holes in the body are outlined. They will install screeds and dowels. Holes in the ends of the shelves should be made at right angles to the floor and located strictly in the center. After that, you can proceed to the assembly of the frame. It is better to carry it out in the same room where the closet will stand, so that later you do not have to deal with the transfer.

1. The left side is placed on the floor. Shelves and latches of the left half are vertically installed in it. On top of the shelves, which are fixed vertically, an average separator post is superimposed.
2. Now the resulting structure can be placed vertically, after securing the bottom. It bolts to the center post. After that, the top is fixed and also connected to the middle rack.
3. Shelves and latches of the right compartment are attached to the middle rack. The shelves are installed vertically to the right sidewall. At this point, the design, made by hand, is tested for strength. Fasteners are tightened if necessary.
4. The body is turned face down. The design is fastened with clamps and has become rigid. In this position, the back of the cabinet is attached to the body with a furniture stapler. If all the calculations were carried out correctly, then the chipboard sheet will lie exactly in the milled grooves of the sidewalls, and will also adjoin the upper and lower sheets.
5. Furniture "ears" are superimposed on the back wall, which will ensure that the furniture fits completely against the wall. Wardrobe can be put in place. It is leveled by level using special overlays.

Step 3. Fixing the doors

If the cabinet is in place perfectly, it is even, without distortions, then another stage of work begins - the manufacture of doors. The best option is to make overhead doors. Their surface will cover the ends of the frame - convenient and practical. It is recommended to order such doors from the master, but before that, calculate the size. It is worth considering the gap distance from the floor to the bottom - about 5 mm (it is important that the door does not drive on the floor, does not scratch it), as well as the gap between the doors when they are in the closed position - 1-2 mm. It is with these parameters that overhead doors should be. Loops for them will be standard - 35 mm. Please note: the parallel hinges of the doors must not fall into the free spaces between the fixed shelves. In this case, the loops will not connect. After the doors are hung on the wardrobe, round shock absorbers are installed on the ends of the case. This will ensure that the doors close without impact.

Mirrors can be inserted into the doors. Only they must be acrylic, other material for chipboard will be very heavy. To do this, you need to make the necessary holes in size, both in the doors and in the glasses. For reliability, it is better to put a mirror not only on special fasteners, but also on double-sided tape.

Step 4. The final stage - filling

Rods, shelf holders are fixed, and shelves are on them. A simple and cheap way to fasten shelves is to a piece of ordinary plinth. It can be both floor and ceiling. The main thing is what it is made of. It is recommended to use a plinth of medium hardness. Suitable plinth MDF. So that the fasteners of the shelves are not visible, part of the plinth should be less than the depth of the shelf itself, by a third, and the end should generally be cut obliquely. The wardrobe is ready.

Step 5 Interior Lighting

If desired, lighting can be provided in the wardrobe. What is the best way to make inner light? Low-power 12 V halogen lamps are suitable. They do not heat up and will not dry the material. Power is supplied through an AC/DC adapter socket with double-insulated wires. 220 V wiring should not be allowed into the wardrobe.