How to make a drywall box on the wall. Two-level plasterboard ceiling box with perimeter lighting

One of the most common options for building a foundation is the use of concrete blocks.

These structures do not need formwork, and their strength is guaranteed by the factory technology of vibrating and steaming concrete.

When building on soft soils, the blocks rest on foundation pads - wide prismatic slabs that reduce pressure on the soil.

In addition to the construction of prefabricated foundations, blocks are also used for the construction of retaining walls, ramps, fences, platforms and flyovers.

Technical conditions of production, typical dimensions and strength characteristics are regulated by the State Standard No. 13579, issued in 1978. In addition to heavy concrete, this standard allows the use of light silicate mixtures in the production of blocks, provided that their density is not less than 1800 kg per 1 m3.

Varieties of foundation blocks

The most common type is a solid concrete foundation block, denoted by the letters FBS. It is used for installation under external and internal load-bearing walls.

GOST clearly indicates the overall dimensions of these structures:

• With a length of 2.38 meters, the thickness of the FBS blocks can be from 30 to 60 cm (the step is 10 cm). Everyone has the same height - 58 cm;
• Blocks with a length of 1.18 meters are produced in three thicknesses: 40, 50 and 60 cm. The height is represented by two sizes - 58 and 28 cm;
• Short (additional) blocks. Length 0.88 meters. Thickness 30, 40, 50, 60 cm. Standard height - 58 cm. They are used in order not to chop a full-sized block into pieces, thereby violating its strength.

The weight of a standard FBS block, depending on the size, can range from 380 to 1960 kg (density 2400 kg/m3).

FBV brand blocks

They are produced to order in small batches, so they are quite rare at construction sites. The main difference from FBS blocks is a longitudinal cutout used for laying engineering communications. These are short designs with a standard length (L) of 88 cm. Their width (B) can be 40.50, 60 cm with a height (H) of 58 cm.

For the production of FBV, as well as for FBS, concrete of a grade of at least 100 kg / cm2 (B7.5) and frost resistance of 50 cycles (class F50) is used. For reinforcement, steel of classes A-I and A-III is used.

FBP brand blocks

This is a lightweight type of foundation structures with square voids. In width and height, they are completely similar to FBV blocks. They are produced in one length - 238 cm. They are used for the construction of internal walls of basements, as well as foundations for industrial installations.

Produced on the basis of concrete B12.5 (M 150). Frost resistance is 50 freeze-thaw cycles. Reinforcement is performed with steel construction grades - A-I and A-III.

Marking

A characteristic feature of marking all types of foundation blocks is the rounding of overall dimensions to decimeters. Therefore, for example, the designation of a solid block with external dimensions adopted by GOST: length 238 cm, thickness (width) 40 cm, height 58 cm will look like this: FBS 24.4.6t (t - heavy concrete). The minimum weight of this design is 260 kg, and the maximum weight is 2 tons (density 2300 kg/m3).

If the structure is made of lightweight concrete, then after the digital marking put the letter "L" or "P" (on a porous aggregate - expanded clay). The minimum weight is 230 kg, the maximum is 1.47 tons (density 1800 kg/m3).

If, after the digital code, there is the letter “C”, then this means that silicate concrete was used during casting. The minimum weight of such a block is 250 kg, and the maximum (with a length of 2.38 meters and a width of 60 cm) is 1.63 tons. Density - 2000 kg / m3.

All foundation blocks are equipped with 2 loops (lugs) made of steel wire with a diameter of 12 mm. They are necessary for installation and loading and unloading operations.

Advantages of foundation concrete blocks

• Significant reduction in the duration of work . When building a foundation by pouring concrete into the formwork, you have to wait 4 weeks to gain brand strength;
• standardized sizes . They allow you to accurately calculate the required number of blocks;
• No need to purchase expensive consumables (boards or OSB board for formwork, anti-freeze additives and to accelerate the setting of concrete);
• Possibility of selection according to the given characteristics (water resistance, frost resistance, resistance to aggressive liquids);
• Durability (with proper installation and observance of operating conditions, such structures serve more than 100 years).

Estimated prices

Let's take a brief look at the sizes and prices of foundation blocks used in civil engineering.

The cost of the smallest (additional) block of heavy concrete FBS-6-3-6t (length 0.6 m, width 0.3 m) averages 500 rubles per piece.

The same block, but 1.2 meters long (FBS-12-3-6t) will cost from 1,000 rubles. Manufacturers offer full-sized blocks 30 cm thick (length 2.4 m) at a price of 2,100 rubles per piece.

Blocks 40 cm thick and 2.4 meters long (FBS 24-4-6) will cost about 2800 rubles / piece, 1.2 meters long (FBS 12-4-6) about 1400 rubles / piece.

The most popular among buyers are FBS blocks with a width of 60 cm, since it is precisely this thickness of the foundation that is chosen in housing construction.

The price tags for these structures in the Moscow region look like this:

• FBS-6-6-6t - 1,100 rubles / piece;
• FBS-12-6-6t - 2,200 rubles / piece;
• FBS-24-6-6t - 4,100 rubles / piece;

Hollow blocks (FBP) in the price lists of suppliers are much less common. Average prices for these structures are 10-15 percent higher than for solid blocks. This is due to the higher complexity of pouring and reinforcing the form with voids.

You will not find the price of blocks with a cutout (FBV) in the factory catalogs. For their pricing and manufacturing, you will have to contact the concrete goods factory and make an individual order.

Often on the market there are offers for the sale of used blocks. Do not rush to rejoice at their low cost, but rather consult an experienced builder. He will competently assess the nature and extent of defects and give practical advice on the justification of such a purchase.

Features of calculation and installation

As you said, the calculation of the number of blocks is quite simple. To do this, you need to determine the volume of the future foundation and divide it by the volume of one block you have chosen. As a result, you will receive the number of designs required for the order.

You don't have to worry about the height of the building. The strength of the factory block is quite sufficient to build a five-story house on it.

The state of the soil is much more critical for such a design. Here it is necessary to take into account one feature of block bases - low solidity. Unlike a solid strip foundation, a block foundation has vertical and horizontal seams that weaken it. Therefore, before installing the FBS blocks, a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is poured along the bottom of the trench. It takes on a significant part of the heaving forces that occur in freezing wet soil.

If the foundation of the building is high (there is a basement), then experts recommend making an armored belt every two rows of blocks.

The ideal foundation for a block foundation is soils composed of coarse sand with a deep aquifer. Since such conditions are very rare, in all other cases the block grillage needs to be strengthened. In addition to using an armored belt, each row of blocks should not be laid dry, but on a concrete solution M 150 with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

Foundation preparation

For the base under the blocks, it is enough to make a sand bed. It plays the role of a leveling layer and its thickness usually does not exceed 15 cm. If the construction is carried out on dry sandstones, then the blocks can be placed directly on the ground.

For buildings erected on problematic soils, reinforced concrete foundation pads (FL) are placed under the blocks to increase the support area.

Installation of the foundation of concrete blocks

The norms prohibit the installation of a foundation from FBS blocks if the bottom of the trench is covered with snow or flooded with water. The movement of these structures is performed by a crane.

First, blocks are installed at the corners of the foundation and at the junction points of the internal walls. They act as mounting beacons. After checking the coincidence of the upper planes of all lighthouse blocks with a level, a cord is pulled between them and intermediate structures are placed along it. At the points determined by the project, gaps are left between the blocks for the passage of engineering networks.

Before installation, the blocks are cleaned of contaminants and moistened with water. Installation is carried out on a concrete solution with dressing of vertical seams (due to the displacement of rows and the use of additional blocks). Vertical seams are also filled with mortar, compacting it with a bayonet shovel.

Helpful advice: when buying foundation blocks, be sure to check with the seller for a certificate of conformity and ask for a copy for yourself. This document guarantees that the quality of products meets the requirements of the current GOST. It may be needed to substantiate claims and damages.

The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful because of the pipes that can be seen from everywhere. If you hide them, then the bathroom can be transformed. Therefore, they use a drywall box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. Also, with the help of a box, you can think of additional lighting.

Basically, the box is needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and not frightened by their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.

You can always leave the hatch to have access to water meters

If you make a vertical box in a drywall bathroom with your own hands, then you can equip it with additional spotlights, which will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to the classic version, when the lighting is located on a horizontal structure. In both options, it is necessary to get confused with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, fixtures and equipment for working in rooms with a high moisture content.

Summing up the intermediate result, we can say that the drywall box in the bathroom has the following functional purposes:

1. Hides sewer pipes.
2. Hides water pipes.
3. Serves as a base for shelves.
4. Serves as the basis for lighting.

Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. It also depends on how it is installed. It is one thing to make a thin box for a drywall bath and quite another to mount a wide box right under the ceiling.

Preparatory work

In order for the workflow to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe you need to hide, so it remains only to think about the dimensions of the future structure, it is enough to step back from the pipe by 2-5 centimeters in both directions and fix the profile there. Such a distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.

When sheathing a vertical pipe, it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it can have a certain slope. The pipe will recede as much as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to step back a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.

The drawing itself can be created on a sheet for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using the drawing. Before you make a drywall box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark up. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.

Marking for the box in the middle of the room

As already mentioned above, with the help of a plumb line, points on the floor and on the ceiling near the walls are indicated. With the help of this simple device, they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a paint cord or profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides are attached.

Now, from the marked points, you will need to draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.

After a simple markup, you need to cut the GKL into strips of the required size so as not to fool around in a small space with large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box of 25 * 25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material is still there.

Frame installation

The drywall box in the bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or the wiring pipes are hidden. For work you will need:

• self-tapping screws for metal;
• dowel;
• guide and rack profiles;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver and perforator;
• level.

Profiles are joined to each other at right angles.

A solid guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. For its installation, it is necessary to take dowels 40 mm long and fasten the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After that, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is fixed in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20 cm, two dowels are needed, one is not enough). At the junction of the profiles, they do not need to be screwed to each other, this will be done at the time of plasterboard sheathing.

Condensation often appears on the pipes, which flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don't have to worry about what happens to hidden pipes.

For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a drywall box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. And one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it is at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, it is the CD profile that is needed, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post is not really attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.

If you do not glue the tiles on the box, then you can use the usual guides

The rack will be firmly fixed during the installation of drywall. It will go into the guides quite tightly and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits snugly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in this case classics of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.

Jumpers for extra strength and hatch

Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a drywall box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in 40-60 cm increments between the B-pillar and the wall rails. As a result, the design will be more reliable. Drywall will be attached to the racks, which will make the surface of the box stronger and more even. The jumpers themselves can be made both from the CD profile and from the UD (whatever you have left). If the jumper is from a rack profile, then it easily enters the guides.

Jumpers can be fastened with a notcher to avoid bumps from screw heads

If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off several centimeters of ribs from the jumper on both sides, while leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that they can go between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be attached. They need to be fixed with metal screws.

Sometimes it is required to leave a viewing window in the box for the counter or other needs. Therefore, it is necessary to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Just insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.

Plasterboard sheathing and finishing

Only moisture resistant drywall can be used. It traditionally has a greenish color. The cut sheets of GKL are fixed first on one side of the box, and then on the second. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will come out more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in 15 cm increments. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, in this place not only the GKL is attached, but profiles are also fastened to each other. It is also necessary to fasten drywall in places where jumpers are installed.

The heads of the self-tapping screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but do not stick out either. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the cap is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.

Now it’s clear how to assemble a drywall box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, putty all the caps of the screws, as well as all the joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. Joints must be primed beforehand so that the putty holds better. A reinforcing mesh is used to reinforce the joints.

Careful attention must be paid to all points in preparation for finishing. The above procedures should be followed carefully, and then the entire GKL box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, and these are high loads. Therefore, the design must be durable, and the putty should not lag behind. Do not forget the antifungal additives, but these are the nuances of the finish.

If you need to sheathe more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you deal with such nuances.

A well-crafted ceiling can make a big difference in a room. It is the drywall box, created using modern building materials, that will hide the unsightly details of the wall or ceiling, the ventilation pipe or electrical wiring. Most often, these camouflage techniques are needed in the kitchen to hide the hood or in the bathroom. And at the same time, the placement of a drywall box can be used to re-equip the lighting of a room or highlight its part with lighting.

Such a device can give the impression of a two-level ceiling, or be a separate geometric shape shown in the photo. Making a drywall box with your own hands is a completely solvable task if you have at your disposal instructions for its installation, the necessary materials and a set of necessary tools. Gypsum board construction is well combined with a ceiling of the same material and with a ceiling that can be stretched.

What materials and tools will be needed

Required materials and tools:

• drywall (gypsum board) is an exclusively ecological material based on mineral wool and double-sided paper coating. Drywall is ordinary, moisture resistant, fire resistant. Sheets no thinner than 12.5 mm in cross section are suitable for the box;
• guides UD and CD metal profiles. When choosing profiles, you should pay attention to the degree of rigidity of the metal, it should not bend when pressed by hand. The quality of galvanization also matters, the surface must be smooth, without spots;
• suspensions can be made independently from guides;
• fasteners: metal screws, dowels, nails;
• primer mixture, putty, preforated paint corners;
• tools: puncher, screwdriver, cutter, scissors for cutting metal, laser or water level, cord breaker, spatulas and brushes;
• primer mass, putty, sickle tape.

Tools and accessories for assembling a drywall box
Plan option
Indication on the plan of the amount of materials needed

Profile mounting

The sequence of operations performed:

• preparatory work for leveling and marking with a tape measure and a fender cord - wall and base ceiling. It must be treated with putty, not bad and plastered. When marking work, consider the thickness of the profile and drywall. Markup is the basis of all future work, it requires great accuracy. Therefore, it is best to use a laser or bubble level;
• installation of a supporting metal profile on the ceiling. It should lie on the line of the outer side wall of the box. We mark holes on the ceiling, drill them with a puncher, fix the profile with dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 40 mm every 50 - 60 cm;
• Then, according to the markings applied to the wall, we mount another guide profile, indicating the "height" of the box, that is, the distance of the lower plane from the ceiling.

Metal profile under the box
Metal carcass

Installation of hangers

When making a drywall box with your own hands, the suspensions can be cut with scissors for metal or a thickness gauge with a cutter. The dimensions of the hangers depend on the scale of the box being prepared, that is, their length is equal to the distance from the ceiling to the lower plane of the box. The prepared suspensions are fixed on the already fixed guides and proceed to the manufacture of the lower part of the box. To do this, a guide profile is attached to the hangers from below.

Fastening can also be done using single-level connectors CRAB. Look at the photo, how the lower part of the structure is suspended.

Some craftsmen believe that it is more convenient to assemble the design of the lower part of the box on the floor. The metal profile is laid out on the floor according to the contour marking, vertical spacers cut from the same profile are inserted and fixed with metal screws.

After this operation, it remains only to transfer the already assembled structure to the ceiling and fix it in the prepared holes of the guide profile. Then you need to make control measurements and align the entire frame. Next comes the turn of the transverse guides. Cut according to the markings made, the transverse guides are fixed with self-tapping screws on the completed frame. The standard distance between them is no more than 60 cm. At the same time, they should be located perpendicular to the wall. The result should be a lattice body.

Pro tip: When working with a screwdriver, use a spare battery. While one of them is working, the other one is charging. The photo shows what the finished box looks like.

Scheme of the simplest plasterboard ceiling box without lighting

Placement of drywall sheets

According to a pre-made sketch, we cut out the elements of the desired configuration and size. How to cut the desired strip from the drywall panel: With a sharp knife, make a cut in the cardboard layer. A rail is laid under the sheet, pressed on its edge - the panel breaks along the cut line. The edges of the fracture are treated with a planer.

At the same time, do not forget about the necessary holes to provide the room with lighting. If the work is carried out in the kitchen, it will not be superfluous to provide for the “packing” of the hood. We check the frame for strength and stability, we check its straightness with the building rule.

After that, you can proceed to sheathing with sheets of drywall, first the lower part of the structure, and then its sides. Self-tapping screws are placed every 20 - 25 cm. Nuance: it is recommended to deepen the self-tapping screws into the surface of the sheet by 0.5 - 1 mm so that they do not protrude during puttying. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are recommended to be glued with sickle tape.

If the ceiling structure is installed in the bathroom or in the kitchen in the area of ​​​​the hood, it is better to use a special moisture-resistant drywall.

Pro Tip: Avoid seams in corners. This can further lead to cracks in the surface of the box.

Finished construction of a drywall box
A plasterboard ceiling box can be either simple or more complex.

Match box with backlight

Before installing suspensions, it is necessary to strengthen the electrical wiring on the base ceiling so that the wires do not interfere with the work. It is best to put them in a corrugation.

Illumination allocate a working area in the kitchen in the area of ​​​​the hood or create additional lighting in the bathroom. Another lighting option: replace spotlights with backlighting using LED strip. Then you do not have to drill holes in the drywall.

We proceed to putty box. You will need two spatulas: the main worker, up to 25 cm wide, and an auxiliary 5–10 cm. With an auxiliary spatula, we apply putty on drywall, and with a wide spatula we level. The complexity is the processing of the corners of the box. In order not to disturb the clear geometric shape, it is necessary to resort to the help of a perforated paint corner.

The corners are pressed with a spatula into the initial layer of putty, the excess mass is removed. From above we impose one more layer, we align, we get even, strict corners.

Illuminated box frame Schematic design of a ceiling with lighting
The finished gypsum ceiling box for lighting and ventilation can be finished with any material
A simple box equipped with lamps

If the box is needed in the kitchen

It is especially appropriate to install a drywall box in the kitchen when installing a hood, when the vent is separated from the stove by a large distance. The ceiling structure, which will hide all the connections necessary for the hood, can be made of any section: square or rectangular. It can be built in the form of a dome, directly to which the built-in hood device will adjoin.

But even before the start of work, all communications should be packed into corrugations and special fasteners or supports for the ventilation duct should be prepared. Before covering the pipes laid in the kitchen in a drywall box, it is necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment - prime and carefully paint over their surface. It is also advisable to seal inaccurate openings in the wall around the pipes with mounting foam or plaster.

A camouflage box made of drywall for laying communications and sewing the corner of the floor will hide all the flaws
Installation of a drywall box in the kitchen for ventilation

Stretch ceiling under plasterboard

A drywall box on the ceiling is often installed as a foundation for a stretch ceiling. In this case, the frame for the ceiling device is mounted around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. The height of the box from the ceiling level is usually taken small, about 3 cm, and the thickness is 25 - 30 cm. To attach the stretch fabric, it is better to make a reinforced frame assembly.

The configuration of a stretch ceiling can be planned more complicated, along arc lines, or multi-level. Accordingly, the box will line up on two levels.

Installation of a stretch ceiling begins with attaching a harpoon-type baguette to drywall. Self-tapping screws 25 mm long are used with an interval of 10 - 15 cm. It is important that each self-tapping screw enters the metal profile of the frame of the drywall box. Where the joints of the harpoon molding pass, the fastening step should not exceed 2 cm. It is not allowed to join the molding in the corners.

Combination of drywall and stretch ceiling
Combination of plasterboard box and stretch ceiling

A large number of people want to give their ceiling a special charm, because the overall design of the room depends on it. One of the ways to transform the surface of the ceiling is to install various decorative plasterboard elements. Statistics indicate that the predominant number of users create boxes from GKL. But many do not have the desire to turn to specialists and therefore are wondering how to make a horizontal drywall box on the wall with their own hands?

Such a product is installed in cases where it is necessary to create additional lighting or decorative lighting. Also, such a product made of plasterboard is able to visually hide various kinds of communications: electrical wiring, air conditioning systems, air duct, etc. The main difference between such boxes and plasterboard ceilings is that the first option concerns the surface of the base part of the ceiling. If it is necessary to create a unique design of the room, then it is recommended to make a drywall box on the ceiling with backlight.

How to create a frame without involving specialists?

If it was decided to independently engage in this process, then you should act according to a certain technology.

In the process of creating a frame, you will need:

1. perforator;
2. self-tapping screws for metal;
3. screwdriver;
4. level;
5. chopping cord (for marking);
6. measuring device (roulette);
7. scissors for cutting metal.

To create a drywall box on the ceiling with your own hands, you must perform preparatory measures:

After the frame is completely ready, you can proceed to the plasterboard sheathing.

The process of sheathing the box

The finish of the box is significantly different from the ceiling lining. In the first case, the finishing occurs in small narrow stripes, in the second, a single sheet is mounted. In order to carefully cut the necessary strip, you need to use a hacksaw. But there are also special knives for drywall.

The process begins with checking the electrical wiring, because after the work is completed it will be almost impossible to fix the problem in the electrical circuit. Next, the prepared strip should be installed on a niche shelf. Fastening is carried out with special self-tapping screws for drywall. After that, you should proceed to fixing the vertical part of the box.

The drywall strip is mounted to the suspension racks and the guide profile located on the ceiling. After completion of work aimed at sheathing the vertical part, the next stage of work takes place - sheathing of the horizontal part of the structure. The installation is completed by mounting the side on the end parts of the box. This element will hide the backlight, which will be located in a niche. It is necessary to emphasize that the upper edge of this side and the ceiling must be located at a distance of at least 50 mm. Also, the edge should be fixed by putting a U-shaped profile on it. A horizontal drywall box is created using a similar technology.

Finishing work of plasterboard construction

• large spatula (200x250 mm);
• spatula medium (50x100 mm);
• putty;
• sandpaper (size does not matter);
• mesh for grouting;
• perforated paint corner.

Why do you need two spatulas? The answer is quite simple, the presence of these two items greatly facilitates the overall process. 200x250 mm acts as an aspen spatula, and 50x100 mm is an auxiliary one. The last option is to clean the main unit. After applying the putty on the spatula, it is necessary to press it tightly and carry it over the entire surface. All recesses obtained must be filled with material, and excess putty must be removed. Such actions are also necessary to create a drywall curtain box.

The most difficult action of finishing work is the removal of corners. Without a special corner, this is almost impossible to do. Its installation is very simple - you only need to bring it to the corner and attach it with putty. Due to the fact that it has a perforated surface, excess material under the influence of the corner will be squeezed out. It must be evenly distributed over the entire surface. The use of such a component requires both a drywall corner box and any other design option.

Putty grouting is done with a special mesh. This action must be performed in a circular motion. After the previous applied material is completely dry, a final grout is required.

Design solutions in decoration

Many users want to transform their resulting design. Some of them turn to professional designers for help in choosing colors for painting the surface, but the majority of people decide this issue on their own. For a plasterboard box with lighting on the ceiling or wall, it is necessary to select certain elements of the general interior, which will stand out due to specially directed lighting.

The process of creating a product from GKL is quite simple, did you manage to achieve the desired result without the help of professionals?

The overhaul of the premises confronts the problem of the impossibility of transferring various elements of water pipes and communications. Design ideas will be violated by an old pipe or a bulky riser. The way out of this situation is to sheathe the pipes with drywall.

Drywall processing

For the manufacture of the box, not only drywall is used. However, it is more suitable for these purposes and easier to process. And its surface lends itself to a variety of finishing methods. Drywall provides high reliability and strength to the future "shelter of pipes", and does not limit the choice of design. Batteries are also closed with this design. Making a box without the help of craftsmen is not difficult.

In order to make a box, you will need a hammer, a construction knife, a construction corner, an impact drill, a level (preferably a bubble one), a tape measure. A drywall sheet is purchased from the materials. If you need to assemble the box in rooms with high humidity, then it is better to choose a moisture-resistant material.

The frame is made of a galvanized profile, and lovers of natural material choose wooden bars. If the choice fell on wood products, they are pre-treated. This will protect the frame from decay and subsequent destruction. It is more practical to use a metal profile. It does not need pretreatment and is easier to process. The frame is made from a profile - a special mounting (CD) and guide (UD).

Drywall box

Why do what?

For convenience, the whole process is best divided into stages - marking, fixing the details of the box and installing drywall sheets.

• Let's start with the markup.

Initially, it is better to make markings on the floor, outlining the contour of the installation of supporting elements. The actual size of the box differs from the intended one, as the frame will be covered with a drywall sheet. How perpendicular the lines are to each other and to the wall is checked with a building corner.

When choosing the dimensions of the box, it is important to exclude the adjoining of drywall to pipes or a battery, make a gap of about 50 mm on each side. The choice of width is also affected by the finish, when it comes to laying tiles.

On the floor, the marking process was completed, but how to transfer it to the ceiling? A device called a plumb line will come to the rescue. If it is not there, but you don’t want to spend money, use a stretched thread.

• Fixing details.

The profiles located close to the wall are installed first. Then the racks are attached, forming the front of the frame. Jumpers are additionally installed between the support profiles to stiffen them, at a distance not exceeding 1 m. If the frame height is less than 150 cm and the width is 25 cm, jumpers are not required.

Hiding sewer pipes

If the frame is made of beams, all cuts must be processed. This will not only protect the tree, but also add stability, increase the level of sound insulation.

• The frame is ready, proceed to the installation of sheets.

The sawing of the material is carried out so that not individual pieces, but whole strips are attached to the box. Initially, it is better to cut off the strips that will be installed on the side faces of the frame, located perpendicular to the wall. Their width does not exceed the intended width of the frame, do not go beyond its boundaries. The size of the last face is calculated taking into account the location of the strips installed near the wall on the edges. Drywall is attached to the rack with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws does not exceed 25 mm.

After the installation stage is completed, they proceed to the formation of even corners and the puttying process. Anyone can make beautiful corners with a perforated corner made of plastic or metal. A small layer of putty is fixed on the surface. When the corners are ready, proceed to the last stage - surface finishing. The process of building the box is considered complete.

Puttying drywall

It is important not to forget that the drywall box is a non-separable structure. Therefore, it is not recommended to tightly close the pipes and the riser. It is better to consider these points in advance.

Riser Features

There are special revisions on the sewer riser. They are sleeves with caps. Access to them must be free. It is necessary to foresee the presence of an opening window in advance. For these purposes, plastic doors sold in building materials stores are used.

Access is also left to the places where the central riser is connected to the internal sewerage. Over time, the question may arise of the need to replace or eliminate the blockage formed inside the pipes.

Read also: room - stages of work with a photo

Features of the sheathing of water pipes

Reducers, check valves, compensators, valves and water meters - all these important elements are located on the pipes. They should always be freely accessible. Therefore, it is necessary to think in advance about the presence of a door in these places.

The openings in the drywall sheet are made a few millimeters larger than the dimensions of the inserted door. It is better to do this before fixing the drywall to the frame, but it is only possible to outline the lines in advance, and after installation, make holes.

Important items must be opened

A mandatory requirement is the installation of a door on the front part directed towards the exit. Do not try to hide it in a secluded place. It is allowed to install the door leading to the valves on the side face.

In places where the pipes go beyond the boundaries of the box, the holes are made slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes. This clearance will prevent vibration. After completion of the installation of the box, this gap is foamed, thereby creating a soft "cushion".

This video will help you get acquainted with a good example of sheathing pipes with drywall.

How to close the GKL battery?

The most difficult part of this process is to assemble the metal frame. Installing drywall is a simple step. To make it easier to close the battery should be consistent:

• GKL is applied to a metal base, equipped around the battery;
• Places of cuts are applied with a marker or pencil;
• According to the marked markup, a cut is made;
• Finished pieces are attached to the frame with screws.

To simplify the process, it is better to install each piece immediately after cutting, so as not to get confused.

If you close the entire battery, then heat will not enter the room. To do this, a special plastic screen is installed in the front plane of the structure. It is fixed before the installation of drywall sheets. After the completion of the entire work process for sheathing the battery with drywall, the outer part of the heat-conducting screen is installed.

It helps to hide various irregularities and communications, which in themselves worsen the overall appearance of the room. The room becomes neat and tidy.

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