How to make drywall. The construction of drywall walls in the apartment: interior and full-fledged

During repair work, for interior decoration of apartments, country houses, cottages or offices, such material as drywall is more often used. With its help, it is possible not only to hide significant surface irregularities, but also to implement almost any ideas in the design of rooms: arches, complex ceiling systems, partitions, alcoves. In the article, we will consider how to make the correct frame on the wall for drywall.

The advantage of plasterboard walls and ceilings

• The design of the drywall frame from the profile allows you to mount an LED strip, built-in lamps in an orderly or chaotic way, or hang a classic chandelier.

• Walls can be decorated with niches and in a rather original way to illuminate them.
• In the resulting interceiling space, ventilation pipes will fit, electrical wiring will be hidden, and there will be room for insulation, soundproofing material.
• And if the height of the room allows you to install a cassette-type air conditioner, since the thickness of the indoor unit can be from 230 to 300 mm.

Conventions for drywall

When purchasing this building material, you may come across the following acronyms (abbreviation):

• GKL- plasterboard sheet of gray color, from 8 to 16 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2000-4000 mm long. Usually used in rooms that do not have special requirements;
• GKLV- a moisture-resistant sheet (the cardboard is painted in green tones), which is distinguished by hydrophobic additives. Produced with the following dimensions: 18x600x2000 mm. Used in bathrooms or kitchens;
• GKLO- fire-resistant drywall has a pink tint, has increased resistance to open fire. Its thickness can be from 10 to 16 mm, width - 1200 mm, and length - 2000-4000 mm. This type is relevant for rooms with a fireplace;
• GKLVO- drywall combining moisture and fire retardant characteristics, thickness 12-16 mm, width 600 or 1200 mm, length 2000-4000 mm.

It should be noted here that 9.5 mm sheets are used more often for ceilings, and 12.5 mm for finishing walls, slopes or creating partitions, niches, and 6.5 mm drywall for making openings in curved, arched forms.

It is not recommended to use a marker to mark drywall, because some types have an “amazing” property to appear on the surface of the sheet even after several layers of putty and paint.

Symbols for a metal profile for drywall

• PS- U-shaped rack-mount profile with longitudinal grooves. Its base is called the “back”, and the sidewalls are called “shelves”, always equal to 50 mm. The width of the back is in the range from 50 to 100 mm. It is used as a vertical rack.
• Mon- guide profile, its section is identical to the rack-mount profile. The width of the "shelves" is only 40 mm, the "base" is 50-100 mm. It is used in the construction of a wall frame or the creation of partitions. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling, forming a frame for the main structure.
• PP- ceiling profile (60x27 mm) with 3 longitudinal grooves. It is to him that the installation of drywall sheets is carried out.
• PNP- ceiling guide profile (27x28 mm). When constructing a suspended structure, it is attached to the walls of the room, directing the PP.
• PU- corner profile (85°) made of perforated metal, used to reinforce corners. It can be both internal and external, differ in purpose and parameters. During further work, the holes are filled with putty material, thereby ensuring reliable adhesion to drywall.
• PA- arched profile (concave or convex). With its help, not only arched-type doorways are formed, but also suspended structures of complex wave-like shapes are created.

If you plan to install a heavy picture, a chandelier with a significant weight or brackets for installing any device, it is recommended to strengthen the frame at these points even at the construction stage.

Additional elements

• Profiles can be from 2750 to 4000 mm long, if a longer length is needed, then a peculiar clutch(connector for PP 60x27 mm).
• Crab has a cruciform shape and is used at the intersection points of the profiles, ensuring the strength of the frame. two level crab is put on the upper level PP and securely fixes the lower level profile.

• direct suspension mounted to a wall or ceiling, then folded along special lines. Profiles are inserted into the resulting U-shaped opening and then fixed. After installation, the excess "ears" are bent or cut off. If you use such a fastener, the subceiling space will be no more than 60 mm.
• With clamps and traction anchor suspension you can adjust the height of the interceiling space from 250 to 1000 mm. Its supporting part ensures the stable position of the PCB.

Hardware

Hardware for fastening guides and suspensions are selected depending on the surfaces, for example:

• if the walls and ceiling are made of concrete, then the profile or anchor hangers are mounted with dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm, depending on the quality of the surfaces.

• For wooden bases, fasteners are made with screws 6x70, 6x80 mm.
• It is better to fix all the metal elements of the frame together, for example, direct suspensions to ceiling profiles, rack-mounted to rails, couplings, crabs - it is better with self-tapping screws with a sharp end of 3.5x11 mm.
• Drywall is mounted to metal profiles using self-tapping screws with frequent threads made of galvanized steel 3.5x25 mm. There is no need to pre-drill the working hole.
• You can attach the guide profile for the racks to the plasterboard ceiling using special drop-down dowels that will ensure a secure fit.

Sequence of work

• If you plan to finish both the walls and the ceiling, then work should begin with mounting the frame on the ceiling. It is rare that a ceiling can “boast” of even angles (90 °), and if in this case repair work begins from the walls, then fitting drywall sheets at the top will become very difficult.
• Carry out electrical work, bring the cable to the points of location of lighting fixtures. The wire length margin should be 10-15 cm from the "new" ceiling. It is necessary to check all connections (operability) of the wiring. When installing spotlights, you should carefully plan the passage of metal fragments of the structure.
• Marking of surfaces for the installation of profiles. The reference point starts from the lowest corner or mound of the base ceiling. Horizontal guides, direct suspensions, ceiling profiles are mounted, plasterboard sheets are fixed.
• In the same way, the frame is mounted on the walls. Their curvature is determined and the PN is installed on the ceiling and floor, if there are windows, the marking starts from them.
• It remains to carry out puttying and other finishing stages of work.

Ceiling frame installation

• First, the distance by which the new ceiling will fall is determined. It should be remembered here that if spotlights are to be mounted, then it is necessary to know their height - one needs 5-8 cm of interceiling space, the other - 12-15 cm.
• Further on the wall there is a point, from which all marking will be performed. With the help of a laser level, a horizontal line is determined, which can be drawn with a pencil or use a chopping cord.
• Measure the desired length of the profile with a tape measure and cut it off using ordinary metal scissors. If necessary, they are easily joined by inserting one into the other, in this case the overlap should be at least 3 cm and this point must be fixed with a hardware.

• PNP is mounted along the lines on the walls, some models already have working holes, if not, then they are drilled in increments of 50 cm with a puncher or drill, depending on the base to which these profiles are attached.
• Next is the markup for the ceiling profiles. Retreat about 60 cm from the wall (since the walls do not always differ in ideal sizes), and check the accuracy of finding the marks with a level. The markings must be visible on the walls. Profile, here it will serve as a ruler, connect the dashes on opposite walls, the resulting line will become a "point" of reference. From it in parallel, every 60 cm, lines are drawn along the entire ceiling.
• In the same way, make a line along the length of the room, as a result, almost all cells will turn out with dimensions of 60x60 cm. The dimensions of the cells near the walls will have different parameters.
• Direct suspensions are fixed with dowels (self-tapping screws) in increments of 60-70 cm, the center of the base must be exactly along the marked line. In places where any devices or equipment will be installed (fan, lamp, air conditioner), it is recommended to additionally install traverses.

• Ceiling profiles for drywall should not be prepared "for the future", as mentioned above, the distance from wall to wall at different points in the room can vary significantly. Therefore, for each profile, the length is measured separately, and it should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the room.
• Ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides, where the central groove should go at risk. Fix its position with one self-tapping screw. A coupling is used if necessary.
• Using scissors for metal, prepare jumpers from the ceiling profile equal to 60 cm, and the crossbars intended for installation from the edge (from the wall to the first longitudinal profile) are a couple of centimeters less than the actual distance.
• It is also necessary to monitor the coincidence of the profile groove with the marks on the walls, install a single-level “crab” at the points of their connection with the longitudinal profile, fixing it with self-tapping screws.

• The final stage of installation of this design is to fasten the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. To do this, a level is applied to the PP at each connection point. And after the deviations are checked and, if necessary, adjusted, the fixation is made. Next is the installation of drywall sheets.

Steel frame wall

• Before mounting the wall frame from the profile, all electrical work is carried out, wires are connected to sockets, switches and lighting fixtures and household appliances.
• It should be noted right away that the technology for making a wall frame differs from the installation of a ceiling structure. First, one wall is completely finished, from the guide profiles to the installation of drywall. And only then is the transition to the next wall and so on.

• Technologically complex objects, when constructing a wall frame, are considered rooms with windows, since slopes require special attention. If it is supposed to perform wall insulation, then vertical profiles should be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the base surface (old slopes).
• The width of the window sill is of great importance if the wall decoration begins after its installation, because the marking for the frame is made from the window. But here the thickness of the drywall sheet is also taken into account, which can be 9.5 or 12.5 mm.
• The square is applied to the frame and the distance is measured, not forgetting an additional 5 cm. This is also done on the other side of the window opening. Similar manipulations should be carried out if there are several windows in the room. These marks will mark the edge of the frame. You can immediately install the PN to the "bottom" of the window sill, in this case the step of the vertical racks can be less than 60 cm.

• A level is applied to these risks to transfer them to the sides of the window sill. Based on these marks, using the level, the edge of the frame on the floor and ceiling is marked. To install a metal structure, it is recommended to use a 2-meter level, it shows a more accurate value.
• The marks on the ceiling and floor are connected and profile guides are mounted along the lines obtained. The first PSs are set on the sides of the window, so the verticals are marked in increments of 60 cm from these profiles. One of them must be installed in the corner of the room.
• Installation of suspensions is carried out every 60-70 cm, their center must be strictly along the line. Rack profiles are inserted into the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the mark on the ceiling and floor, and are interconnected. Further, their vertical along the base and shelves is regulated by the level. Then the final fixation with self-tapping screws is performed.

• The crossbars are installed using a "crab", special attention should be paid to their installation in the window area. The horizontal jumper is mounted above the opening.
• After completing the fastening of the metal frame to the wall, it is recommended to sketch the location of the longitudinal and transverse profiles. This scheme may be needed if in the future it becomes necessary to place a picture on the wall, another shelf or hang a decorative planter from the ceiling.
• Here, the so-called "butterflies", "umbrellas" and so on are used as fasteners, the principle of their fastening is as follows: the plastic dowel spreads its "wings" when the screw is screwed in, thus ensuring a secure fixation on the back side of the drywall.
• If you understand the principle of installation, and to start with a simple design for plasterboard sheets, then during the next repair it will be possible to implement more complex solutions: a two-level ceiling, niches in the walls and arched doorways.

The main task of repair in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal. Indeed, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly even walls. Aligned on the principle of "at least somehow." You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster over the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: to level the surface of the wall with drywall (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the repair process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions, put new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell in the article.

How to sheathe walls with drywall

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. The first is that not everywhere there is glue under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fasten something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a mortgage beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. There is a difference of 2-3 mm. Between the "pieces" of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, it's not a bad way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to the wall, we will talk about the frame and mostly metal. The rules for fastening to wood are the same, just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a “non-standard” of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers positions thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If you need to join the sheets in height, arrange the joints so that you do not get a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid apart or with a shift. At the same time, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you will get rid of cracks with almost 100% probability (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet located on top should be installed so that the junction of the bottom one falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

What to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take TN25 self-tapping screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores, they are called “for drywall”. Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, they are selected close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the desired depth during installation: the cap must be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard must not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how to simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two along the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls on the middle of the profile.

Stepping back from the edge of 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Mounted around the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially true for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (excluding the features of installing profiles).

Drywall partition

Installing the partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

markup

First mark the place of installation of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use the usual construction (good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark the line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Like it or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as how thick the insulation and / or soundproofing material can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing the load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that a heater is then installed.

Racks to the rails are attached in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working with drywall on their own, attach to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). Racks are fixed on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One moment: if you put a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then put a special film or some kind of material between the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, which will prevent squeaking. When people walk, there are vibrations that are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and creak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided and there are no unpleasant sounds.

Rack spacing is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the sheet of drywall (drywall), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bump” - the sheet will stagger and sag. Another point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and attached to a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the beam does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

Jumpers are usually located at the height where two sheets will be joined. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - put it in 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars are required above the doorway: at the height of the door frame. It is also desirable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and electrical wiring. It is desirable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If you put a partition in a wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized steel frame, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses from non-combustible raw materials (there is a “NG” mark).

Plasterboard sheathing and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, they begin to install drywall sheets. They are mounted in the same way as when sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall sheathing begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, a heater and / or a sound insulator are installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the GKL wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and partitions made of drywall use the usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line on the front side with a pencil along which drywall should be cut;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, because of which the gypsum breaks along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the hardest part. And on how correctly the frame is made, it depends on how even the wall or partition will be.

How to make a false plasterboard wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. Racks are really more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from drywall. This is where reinforcement comes in handy. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved. There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven, but rough walls and sidewalls. With an equal thickness of the metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite affordable, you can take it as a basis and build plasterboard walls with your own hands.

The appearance of drywall in the construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). The installation of this material allows you to create a surface with a high evenness index on the wall or ceiling. This, in turn, is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level the plane with any difference in the area to be trimmed. If this difference is small up to 5 cm, then you can use the frameless installation method. If more than 5 cm, then drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a crate made of metal profiles. The very technology of erecting a new surface is so simple that even it can handle it.

Photo of a curly plasterboard wall with backlight

Much more photo of drywall walls see .

This will require the drywall sheet itself and several profiles: for wall decoration - guide and rack, for the ceiling - guide and ceiling. As well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From tools:

• Perforator;
• Screwdriver;
• Planer for removing edges;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Putty knife.

Tool for mounting metal frames under drywall

Mounting the frame for drywall

Let's consider . To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted into the room or out. To determine this, it is necessary to attach a suspension to the upper corner of the wall. If an indefinite distance moved away from the lower corner near the floor, then the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation site of the plumb line slightly towards yourself, that is, combine the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, it will be necessary to make marks on the ceiling right next to the wall in each opposite corner horizontally. Connect them with a line on which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them together and fix the guide profile on the floor.

In order to carry out the installation of profiles simply, you need to cut them to the size of the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, holes are made in the floor or ceiling with a puncher, where plastic dowels are hammered. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

In the event that the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then they will have to be increased. There is nothing difficult in this. Two connected elements are inserted into each other with ends and attached with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is done along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next step is the installation of rack profiles. Two end elements can be installed at once, fastening to adjacent walls and to the upper and lower rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to put vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the place of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

On the lines drawn, every 50-60 cm, direct suspensions are installed, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this, you will need a puncher and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread in several rows between the two extreme rack profiles. It is on it and carry out the alignment.

Option to reinforce the frame under drywall with a wooden bar

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The step is chosen at your discretion, a lot will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the slower the step. The crossbars will strengthen the frame, make it rigid.

Drywall fixing

So, the crate is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, it is necessary to process its edges with a special planer in order to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet, install it to the crate so that it lies on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined at once on one profile. This does not apply to the corner element, which completely covers the sheet.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws, here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

• The distance from the edge of the panel to the attachment point is 10-15 mm.
• The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
• Cap screwing depth up to 5 mm.

Puttying the joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and fixed, it is necessary to seal the joints. For this, a putty mortar is used, with which the seam is filled. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. This will require a spatula. Please note that the places where drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of building a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, the height of all corners is measured, the smallest size is what you need. It is here that a laser level is set at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. Its light beams on the walls will outline the outline. They will have to install guide profiles to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, so across the room from one of the walls we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing suspensions. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are stretched between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the crate will have to be aligned along them.

Reinforced frame for plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, they are aligned along the threads and fastened to the hangers. After that, the frame will need to be reinforced with crossbars, as is the case with the wall.

Drywall finishing

If the plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpapered on it, then finishing work cannot be carried out in this form. Drywall will need to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is needed additionally. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if you apply it in a thin layer and finish it with sandpaper, then the plane will be even.

Scheme for this type of work:

• The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. You need to let the surface dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done in order for the cardboard to become the owner of a surface with a high degree of adhesion.
• Next, a layer of putty is applied, which must also be dried.
• If the degree of evenness does not suit you, then you will have to apply another layer. But before that, the first must be treated with a primer.
• Now with fine-grained sandpaper it is necessary to process the puttied surface. For this, a trowel is used, on which sandpaper is attached. With circular unhurried movements, without effort and pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
• After that, a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
• Once it dries, you can paint or wallpaper.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, study and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - you can divide any living space into functional zones with your own hands, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with drywall and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or corkboard enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a novice, "inexperienced" home master in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

disadvantages

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
• The impossibility of fastening massive shelves or wall cabinets on the surface of the partition. The design is capable of holding a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are fastened to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. First, let's look at the list of the necessary tools, list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
• Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

materials

For self-assembly of the partition, the following materials will be used:

1. Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
2. Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.

  The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure

• Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile

• Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a guide profile strip, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure

• Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Advice of the master: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
• drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

The engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the construction area.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Master's advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room of at least +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

3. Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level

4. We will form a doorway by installing racks made of a reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150–200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. We install a reinforced rack in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper

6. Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws

7. We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.

   Inside the upper beam of the opening, you can insert a wooden beam, further reinforcing the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.

   Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.

   The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.

3. With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.

   Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate

5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fixing the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the gypsum board, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or parts of a non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we will insert a door block into it and solve the issue of finishing the surface of the drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finish - it can be wallpapered, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster applied - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.

wall for some families becomes the only way out. Children grow up, and only a few can buy new housing. How to make separate rooms for children from? Do not lay out the same wall from the middle of the apartment. The solution will be do-it-yourself, step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of which will be discussed in today's article. Let's try to understand how difficult it is to do such work on your own: from selection to finishing. We will figure out how to lay electrical wiring in the partitions and provide sound insulation so that the room becomes complete.

We have already talked about dividing the room into two parts. However, a partition will be necessary in other cases. This may be a similarity made according to the same principle, or perhaps decorative plasterboard for decorating a women's boudoir. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of GKL partitions.

Positive and negative qualities of plasterboard walls

Installation of drywall partitions is so simple that a home master without such experience will cope with this work. You just need to know some of the nuances that we will try to highlight today. Of the advantages of working with such material, in addition to ease of installation, one can note the low cost of time and money. GKL is not expensive, except for well-known brands. Allows you to realize many of the most daring ideas, it can be bent if necessary. For example, a drywall doorway when installing interior partitions can be made in the form of an arch or traditional.

The disadvantage of the material can be considered its susceptibility to mechanical damage. It breaks easily on impact. Also, the soundproofing qualities leave much to be desired. Additional work will need to be done to ensure this. One should not hope that subsequently massive objects will be possible. To ensure such an installation, it is necessary to lay stiffeners in the right places that reinforce the structure.

Important information! When installing partitions, you should not hope that the room is dry. At any moment, neighbors from above can flood, which will lead to rather unpleasant consequences and unnecessary costs. It is better to purchase a more expensive moisture resistant material. This will not completely eliminate its swelling, but it will significantly reduce the damage.

What material is required to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

The GKL partition consists of a frame that gives the main strength and plasterboard sheathing. The frame is made of a metal profile, wooden bars or a combination of both materials. Dowel-nails are also used for attaching guides to, and and, with which jumpers and plasterboards are attached to them.

Drywall sheets can be divided into types:

• Standard– gray color, blue marking. The most common material. It is subdivided into (slightly thinner and stiffer) and wall;
• moisture resistant– green color, blue marking. You should not think that he is not at all afraid of moisture, yet gypsum is hygroscopic, but more resistant to moisture;
• Refractory– pink color, red marking. and high temperatures.

Related article:

GVL, GKLV and other types, their characteristics, sizes and applications - we will talk about all this in detail in this publication. And also consider how GVL and GKL differ and for what work it is better to use each of the options.

Optimal thickness of drywall partitions

The thickness of the GKL for the interior partition depends on the purpose of the wall. If this is a decorative false wall, the minimum sheet thickness will be 12.5 mm. If a full-fledged partition is planned, in which installation or various souvenirs are possible, then some calculations will be required:

• If the load is 40 ÷ 50 kg / m², you need a sheet with a thickness of at least 15 mm;
• Over 70 kg / m² involves the use of double sheets, and reinforcement of the frame structure.

Sheathing the frame, you should not make joints of plasterboard sheets of opposite walls at the same level. This will lead to weakening of the structure and the appearance of cracks at the seams. But the choice of GKL is not the most important thing in such an installation. Before you make a drywall partition in a room, you should understand which metal profile to choose for one purpose or another.

The main types of partitions: features and markings

Image	Construction type	Options	Some characteristics
	C111	The weight of 1 m³ is 28 kg, the recommended height is up to 8 m	A single frame made of galvanized steel profile, which is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in one layer. Inside is filled in the form of mineral wool. It is used as partitions in rooms with low requirements for sound insulation and fire resistance. The thickness of the partition depends on the dimensions of the profile and the plasterboard.
	C112	Weight 1 m³ - 53 kg, height 4÷9 m	Single metal frame with two-layer plasterboard sheathing on both sides. Filler - mineral wool. The design provides high soundproofing characteristics and fire resistance (up to 1.25 hours). It is used for redevelopment or in capital construction.
	C113	Height up to 9.5 m. Weight 1m³ - 78 kg	A single frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof drywall in three layers. By increasing the number of layers of GKL, sound insulation increases.
	C115.1	Height - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 57 kg	Double frame, sheathed with GKL in two layers. Along with strength, it has excellent fire resistance.
	C115.2	Weight 1 m³ - 69 kg. Height up to 9 m	In addition to the two-layer sheathing, the double frame is separated by an additional sheet of drywall (spaced frame). Due to this, strength and thermal insulation properties increase. Mineral wool slabs are laid inside.
	C116	Height 4.5 - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 61 kg. Minimum partition wall thickness 220 mm	A double metal frame sheathed with two layers of drywall is convenient for. Fire resistance - 1.25 hours. Sound insulation up to 50 dB.
	C118	Weight 1 m³ - 86 kg. Height up to 9 m	Partition of the class "Protection of the premises from penetration." Made according to the C113 type with a single metal frame sheathed with a three-layer plasterboard coating. A feature of the product are sheets of galvanized steel, 0.5 mm thick, inserted between the plasterboard, which significantly increases the strength and fire resistance of the structure. The most optimal for creating a drywall partition with a door in a warehouse.
	C121	Weight 1 m³ - 32 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	The frame is made of wood with a moisture content of 12% and sheathed on both sides with one layer of plasterboard.
	C122	Weight 1 m³ - about 57 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	Two-layer "upholstery" of the wooden frame GKL. The insulating material of the partition is mineral fiber boards. Advantages - high strength and good sound insulation.

Related article:

What materials can be used for manufacturing, how to choose the shape of the partition and expert advice on its installation - read all this and much more in this material.

Types of profile for partitions from GKL

To assemble a frame for a plasterboard interior partition, you will need three types of profiles - rack-mount, guides (main) and jumpers.

Guides - U-shaped profile with standard width dimensions - 5; 6.5; 7.5 and 10 cm. Height - 4 or 4.5 cm. The main (guide) profiles are attached to the ceiling and walls, giving stability to the structure. Marking - PN or UW.

Rack elements are marked as PS or CW. The dimensions are identical in height and width, because they must be inserted one into the other. But the length of the rack profiles is more diverse. If the guides are produced in 3 m, then the rack can also be 3.5 or 4 m. The reason for this was that the racks cannot be increased - this harms the strength of the frame structure.

Jumpers are made independently from any type of profile and serve to increase the strength of the frame. Usually, trimmings left over from rack or main elements are used. The method of bending (internal or external) depends on the wishes of the master, but the internal one is more durable.

Soundproofing methods for walls made of plasterboard

The most common method of soundproofing (as well as) walls made of gypsum plasterboard is laying between the skins of mineral wool or polystyrene. The denser and thicker this layer is, the better the wall or sound.

Do-it-yourself drywall partitions: step-by-step instructions for the main steps

Installation of a wall from GKL is carried out in several stages. But first you need to figure out which one may be needed for work.

Partition wall mounting tool

In addition to the main tool (perforator, drill and) you will need a knife on the GKL. It can be used to cut parts of the desired size. This is done in the following way. Having marked the sheet, we apply a metal profile and draw a knife several times along the strip, cutting the surface as deep as possible. We break the rest. It is not difficult, even a schoolboy will cope with the work. The cut is leveled with a planer along the GKL or with the same knife so that the joint is as even as possible.

Need to know! There is no need to adjust the plates perfectly, because all the flaws will be covered with putty when finishing. But before you make a wall of drywall, you should practice on an unnecessary cut.

Calculation of consumables for the installation of a wall of plasterboard

It is not difficult to calculate the required amount of GCR. It depends on the layers of the wall, and we will not dwell on it. And here is to calculate the carrier profile more difficult. Calculations are made according to the formula Q = (P/0.6 + 4) × K if the wall is less than 3 m high, and Q = ((P/0.6 + 4) × H/3) + P × K if the wall height is more than 3 m, where:

• Q - the number of carrier profile;
• K – coefficient for waste;
• P - the perimeter of the room;
• 0,6 - the value of the step of the racks in meters;
• 4 - the number of racks indicated in pieces, which must be installed in the corners of the room.

However, there are also load-bearing elements of the frame. The calculations are made as follows. We divide the perimeter of the future wall by 3 (the height of one profile), and then multiply by the overrun coefficient. For different areas, it is different, and is 1.075 for an area over 20 m 2, 1.175 for an area from 10 to 20 m 2 and 1.275 if the area is less than 10 m 2.

Frame installation: getting started

First, we will analyze the stages of work, how to make a drywall partition, superficially, and then we will try to understand the whole technology in photo examples in detailed step-by-step instructions. First of all, using a laser level, we mark the locations of the main profiles - they are the basis of the future wall. In addition to fixing the dowel-nails to the walls and ceiling, we fix the profiles to each other with a special breakdown or self-tapping screws.

Having completed this work, we move on to the racks. If planned, then we install wooden bars in the rack profiles around it - they will add structural strength.

Good to know! If the wall is small, then you can do without horizontal bars. If the dimensions are large, then jumpers will have to be installed.

Before you make a partition in the room, cutouts are made in the main profiles for wiring, into which it is dragged. After the main frame is assembled, one side of the partition is closed. At the same time, drywall is attached over the entire area, not excluding the future doorway. Much easier to cut later.

Having closed one side of the wall, on which sockets and switches will be installed and cutting through the doorway, we install glasses under the electrical fittings, pull cables into them and fill the free space with mineral wool, which will provide noise and heat insulation. It remains to close the wall on the back of the plasterboard and cut through the doorway again.

Now let's look at how a drywall wall is mounted with our own hands in step-by-step instructions with photo examples.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a partition from GCR with your own hands

Illustration	Action to take
	First, we measure the length of the main profiles and cut to the desired length. To do this, you can use scissors for metal or a grinder. When working with a grinder, do not forget about safety glasses.
	Holes are cut in the lower profile for pulling cables (in our case, they pass under the floor) ...
	The main profile is laid according to pre-made markings and attached to the floor. The cables are pulled through the prepared holes.
	The same actions are performed with the upper profile and with guides along the walls.
	This is how the main profile is attached in case there is a doorway directly at the wall.
	We install a wooden block in the profile along the door jamb, which is attached to self-tapping screws. It will give strength to the structure and door hinges.
	Between themselves, the profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws or by means of a special device - a breakdown.
	Be sure to check the position of each rack and rail with the mounting level. This will give confidence that the wall will turn out to be even, without tilting.
	We begin to sew up the GKL frame, along with the doorway. So much more convenient than attaching sheets in pieces
	We coat all the seams of the first layer with putty and align. This will provide better heat and sound insulation.
	Let's start cutting the door. Here it will not work to break the sheet, and therefore you will have to cut it completely, to the full thickness. In our case, this is 12.5 mm.
	We proceed to fixing the second layer of drywall. This time the sheets are moved 60 cm, overlapping the first seam.
	Having closed one side in 2 layers, we mark the location of the sockets and drill them with a wood crown ...
	... after which we mount the glasses and bring the cables into them.
	On the reverse side, we proceed to laying the insulation - mineral wool. It fills all the free space.
	The final result of the insulation looks like this. It remains to close the second side of the wall.
	Having completed this work and again cutting through the doorway, we get such a picture. But we still have not mounted another blank wall.
	Similarly, we assemble a frame from a metal profile ...
	... and sew it up with drywall. All joints should be as even and neat as possible.
	Lastly, we will close the ends of the metal profile, after which we can proceed to the finishing of the mounted wall.

How to bend the plasterboard for mounting the arched passage

This work is quite easy to do. We cut the strip to size and laying it on the floor, using a knife and a ruler, we make transverse cuts through each centimeter along the entire length. After the actions taken, the strip will easily bend and position as needed. It becomes clear that the question of how to make a drywall partition with your own hands is not so complicated.