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How to make bird houses, a variety of types of houses. Do-it-yourself bird house in the country (photo)

Attracting birds to the site is both useful and enjoyable. It is useful because they destroy pests, it is pleasant to listen to their singing and observe the behavior of birds. Therefore, many come up with the idea - to build a birdhouse with their own hands. People over 40 years old, while they can remember their school years: at the lessons of labor, the boys made houses for birds. But not only site owners make birdhouses. Often residents of apartment buildings hang them on trees near the house, on balconies and loggias.

What to do

The answer is unequivocal - from wood, and hardwood: conifers are too resinous. Resin can stain the plumage, leading to the death of the bird. Do not use plywood, or. Rarely does anyone settle in such birdhouses: glue and binders scare away birds. For the same reason, we assemble and fasten blanks only on nails or screws, we do not use glue.

Most often, birdhouses are made from boards. The thickness of the boards is at least 20 mm. This thickness is sufficient to maintain a stable temperature inside, which is important when hatching chicks. Moreover, the boards are needed unplaned, in any case, the inner surface should be rough. The front part under the notch is also specially scratched: along these notches, chicks and birds rise to the notch.

To prevent cracking of the boards during assembly, we pre-drill holes for the screws. The diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw.

Sizes of birdhouses for different types of birds

To attract different types of birds, the size of the house should change. The proportions of the “body” itself and the letok change mainly. The task is to create more familiar nesting conditions for this species.

bird species	Bottom dimensions	Birdhouse height	Notch dimensions	Note
Starlings	10*10cm	30-40 cm	about 5 cm	letok is preferable to a round shape
Sinichnik - tits, flycatchers, redstarts, sparrows, pygmy owls	10-12 cm	25-30 cm	30-35 mm	notch round
Small titmouse or flycatcher (flycatcher, redstart)	10*8cm	25-30 cm	30 mm
Poluduplyanka	10*8cm	20 cm	height 33-50 mm across the entire width of the wall	letok - a longitudinal slot in the entire width of the front wall

As you can see from the table, basically only the height changes. The width remains more or less stable. It's not worth making birdhouses anymore. They will stimulate to lay more eggs, and the birds will not be able to fully feed a large number of chicks, as a result, the offspring will be weak and, most likely, will die.

If you want to attract wagtails, make a birdhouse laid on its side: it will be 10-12 cm high and 35-40 cm wide, with the same small entrance located approximately in the middle. Wagtails have weak legs, and they cannot climb the high wall to the entrance. Therefore, such a choice of nesting. in the wagtail, it is also desirable to make a trapik about 10 cm wide in front of the entrance - so that they can enter on foot.

Some explanation is required for the half-hollow. Some birds are used to nesting not in hollows, but in depressions between branches. In a completely closed artificial nesting place, they rarely settle. If you want to attract, for example, a gray flycatcher, make it a small box in which the notch goes the entire width of the front wall.

Just keep in mind that some types of squirrels also like to settle in such houses.

There is another nesting place that birds often like more - the nest box. This is a birdhouse, hollowed out from a piece of log. Often a dried tree is sawn into logs of a suitable size, turning it into apartments for birds. The height and diameter are selected based on the dimensions that were indicated for an ordinary birdhouse. The bottom and roof in the hollow are made from a piece of board.

Duplyanka - a birdhouse made of logs

Security

It's a shame and a pity when the nests of birds are ruined. Cats are mainly engaged in this, and even woodpeckers. Therefore, when you make a birdhouse with your own hands, increase the overhang of the roof. In almost all drawings, it is drawn 5 cm long. In order to protect the birdhouse from the cat, it is necessary to make sure that he cannot reach the notch. To do this, the roof should protrude by at least 7 cm, and it is better to add a couple more - for large specimens. This ledge will also protect from slanting rain: the chances that the chicks will get wet becomes even less.

Another option is to put nails on the lid. The cat is unlikely to get hurt, but it won’t work to sit comfortably - they won’t give nails.

There are several ways to protect chicks from woodpeckers:

beat the notch with tin:
drive a few nails around the notch;
nail an overlay made of wood on the notch area, the fibers of which run horizontally.

All this will prevent the woodpecker from expanding the notch and getting to the eggs or chicks. The last trick - the overlay - will also complicate the task for the cat: it is more difficult to reach the chick through a long entrance.

Measures against enemies: 1 - from woodpeckers, 2.3 - from cats

They are still saved from cats and possible invaders with the help of protective belts. They are made either from tin strips or from “brooms”. You will understand everything by looking at the picture. Please note that the distances must be maintained within an accuracy of 3-4 cm. Then the animals will not be able to jump over the protective belts. There should not be knots, feeders and other possible supports between them and the birdhouse.

Where to hang

Where to hang a birdhouse is also a science. If they gathered to hoist on a tree, then at a height of at least 2.5-3 meters. There should not be paths or busy metas near the selected tree - a well, a bench, etc.

When choosing a place on a tree, keep in mind that there should not be large branches in front of the entrance: the approach should be free. At the same time, you need to deploy it so that the “window” looks south. All this increases the chances that tenants will settle in your birdhouse.

Another point: you need to tie or nail so that the “house” is tilted slightly forward. So it will be easier for the chicks to get out, and less rain will clog.

How to make a birdhouse with your own hands: photo report

We will do the easiest option - with a flat roof. As already mentioned, we take non-planed hardwood boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more. To avoid splinters, it is better to work with gloves. We cut the blanks according to the drawing. Try to keep the saw cuts even and at a right angle: there should be no gaps. Immediately after hatching, the chicks are without plumage, and the slightest draft can kill them. Therefore, all edges must be even.

We take long thin nails - diameter 1.5-2 mm, length 4-5 cm and a hammer. We start assembly. We nail the sidewalls to the front part at a right angle. For each - three or four nails.

Turning the workpiece upside down, take the bottom, insert it, align it. We nail to the sides. From above we cover with a back wall, we also nail. Do not forget about the connection of the back wall with the sidewalls.

Turning the notch up, we nail the bottom also from this side. It remains to assemble the roof. We take the remaining square - a double of the bottom, nail it so that the visor sticking out in front is at least 5 cm (preferably 7-10 cm, as they said before). If the nails stick out, bend them.

The roof just needs to fit snugly. If something interferes, we earn money with a chisel. That's all, the birdhouse is ready with your own hands.

Often a perch is installed under the entrance. Is she needed or not? If there are enough branches around, it is better not to do it. If there are no branches, you need to either make a perch or a small shelf, although you can do without them. Why? Because cats also rely on them and it is easier for them to reach the chicks with support.
How to make a titmouse, see the video

We make a nest box - a birdhouse from a log

If the feathered people have a choice - to settle in a nest box or a birdhouse made of boards - they will choose a nest box. It looks more like the usual "housing" - a hollow, it has no slots on the sides and, therefore, is warmer. They are less noticeable on the tree, which means more chances to grow offspring. This is a plus from the bird's point of view. Now about the pluses from the point of view of "manufacturers": a fallen tree goes into work, and it is free. If you find a suitable one, it will be enough for a large number of birdhouses. About the minuses - making hollows is longer and more difficult: you have to manually pick out the core, leaving the walls intact.

Now about how to find a suitable tree. Aspen is best suited: it usually rots from the inside, and remains hard along the outer edge. Therefore, we go in search of an aspen forest, and there, among the fallen trees, we look for a suitable one: we cut several trunks. It is important to find with a whole edge and a rotten middle - the work will go faster.

It is desirable to find such an aspen - with a rotten core, but strong edges

Often such trees have rotten bark, which makes them look unsightly. We clean off the bark, pull the log to the dacha or to the house. There we cut into logs of a suitable size. Dimensions are determined by the diameter. For a birdhouse, the inner diameter of the nest box should be 22-30 cm, respectively, the outer diameter should be 27-36 cm.

The height of the block of wood also depends on the type of house - a titmouse 20-40 cm high (but they are more likely to settle in low ones), a birdhouse - from 30 to 45 cm. precipitation dripped from the roof. For the manufacture of roofs and bottoms, you will need trimming boards, you can use unedged and slabs.

We take a cut off block of wood and begin to pick the core with a chisel. The task is to dig a through hole. After that, even hard wood is easier to chip. To make the process go faster, you can drill holes with a drill, then break out the jumpers with a chisel.

The task is to dig a through hole

As a rule, the rotten core ends quickly, then you have to chip off pieces of wood with a chisel and a hammer or mallet. But with a hole in the center, it is much easier - longitudinal pieces are chipped off, work goes on at a normal speed.

The walls should remain about 1.5-3 cm. We try to work out the middle more or less smoothly, without large chips. When the walls are selected, we make a notch. If there is a knot, you can hollow it out. Or take a bark and a drill, drill in a suitable place. If there is no crown, we take an ordinary drill, drill holes in a circle, then, using the same chisel, we cut through the remaining jumpers.

A piece of board 2-2.5 cm thick goes to the bottom. It is nailed or screwed onto self-tapping screws. The protruding parts are cut as close to the walls as possible.

It remains to nail the roof. The same board or slab will do. Before screwing in the self-tapping screw, drill holes, otherwise the board may split.

Actually, you have already made a birdhouse with your own hands, it remains to protect it from woodpecker attacks. If there are knots on the walls, it is advisable to coat them with plasticine (regular, for children). They can also close up the gaps that remain between the bottom and the roof and the walls: it is rarely possible to fit everything clearly. If you do not want to cover with plasticine, you can caulk with a hemp rope. It is applied to the slot, and driven into it, with a flat screwdriver (actually, there are special blades for caulking, but they are large - this is the time, and for “one-time use” they should be bought ...). If it "goes" badly, you can knock on the handle with a hammer.

Caulking "seams" with hemp rope

How to decorate a birdhouse

While the birdhouse is new, it looks relatively good, but after a couple of months it will darken. For birds, this is good - it will become less noticeable and they will only benefit from this. But not all homeowners like to look at such an unsightly “decoration”. To improve the appearance, the birdhouse can be painted, but you need to choose “natural” colors - brown, gray, shades of green. Do you want your birds to survive? This means that their nest must be masked, and not painted in all the colors of the rainbow, attracting all possible predators.

And this one is just ideal - no gaps in the floor))

Sinichnik is inhabited

Beautiful decoration and disguise

We hope that now you can not only make a birdhouse with your own hands, but also competently (from the point of view of birds) decorate it.

Dimensional drawings

Some drawings of birdhouses are in the text, we post a few more in this section. Correcting the dimensions for the planned "residents" is probably not a problem. Also note that the layout is given for a board with a thickness of 2 cm. If the thickness is increased or decreased, adjustments are necessary.

Birdhouse with a triangular roof: drawing, dimensions

Sloped roof birdhouse (front wall higher)

A birdhouse is a type of artificial closed nesting site, the most popular among both people - friends of wild birds, and their wards. The tradition of hanging birdhouses on Bird Day exists all over the world, and in places suitable for nesting, real birdhouse towns appear in some places, see fig.

Note: International Bird Day, April 1, is not celebrated in the Russian Federation. In Russia, it is customary to consider the Day of the Birds of the so-called. Finding, but not a Christian church holiday, but a folk one. People's Finding falls on March 9 according to the Gregorian calendar, this date is more suitable for hanging birdhouses, see below. The origin of the name of the people's Finding is not connected with finding the head of John the Baptist, but with beekeeping - if by this day the bees are found (are) in the hives, then they have wintered safely.

Making a birdhouse with your own hands is easy; a student can handle it too. Birdhouses are used to attract not only birds - insect exterminators to home gardens and summer cottages, but also small songbirds to cities and housing, as well as to create nests for hollow-nesting birds in forests and parks. Many useful and beautiful birds nest in hollows and the competition for "living space" during the nesting season is fierce, because. there are not so many hollows in the trees and, as a rule, they have been occupied by someone since autumn.

The birdhouse assembly technology is really simple, it does not require expensive and / or complex processing materials. But, to make a birdhouse, you need to know in advance who will live in it. In closed nesting places, many small birds, which in other conditions are able to nest openly, do not mind making a nest. All potential new settlers of the birdhouse have their own requirements for the nest, so the designs of birdhouses for different species or groups of bird species differ, which is expressed in their names: titmouse, flycatcher, wagtail, owlet, etc.

General terms

The device of a birdhouse in general is as follows: it is an upwardly elongated cavity, mainly in wood, with a blank bottom and a removable lid. Under the roof there is a hole - notch - for the birds that settled in it. A removable cover is necessary, firstly, for autumn inspection and cleaning of the cavity: among the birds, only starlings, tits and nuthatches, after the departure of the chicks, will certainly throw away the old nesting material and do a “general cleaning”. Most of the others leave the garbage as it is and the next year the cluttered “secondary” will no longer be taken. Secondly, instead of birds, the birdhouse can be captured by unwanted occupying animals; we will talk about them below.

The body (structure) of the birdhouse can be prefabricated from boards, as well as some other materials, or dug or chipped from a piece of log - churak; the latter are called hollows. The dimensions of the birdhouse are usually, depending on the type of birds for which it is intended, 20-40 cm in height; a notch with a diameter of 2.5-6 cm is located 5-6 cm under the roof. The removal of the roof over the notch is needed at least 5 cm in order to protect it from rain and cats. The diameter of the internal cavity (nesting chamber) is from 10x10 to 15x19 cm in birdhouses made of boards or from 7 to 20 cm in diameter in hollows. Sometimes a pole or landing area for parents is required in front of the entrance; in what cases - let's see further.

Houses like a birdhouse are also made for other animals living in hollows: squirrels, bats, but their proportions are different. It is necessary to make a birdhouse for birds within the indicated height limits so that the chicks can still climb the walls for feeding, but for squirrels, and especially for dormouse, such a high threshold would be inconvenient. You should not make the nesting chamber too spacious, firstly, for the same reason. Secondly, in a large nesting area, the female will lay more eggs, but the parents will not have enough strength to feed them all. Some of the chicks will then die, and the rest will grow stunted and will not survive the winter.

What are the birds waiting for?

The birdhouse must meet very specific requirements. First, it must be durable and opaque: the secrecy of the brood is the main thing for which hollow nests nest in tree cavities. Further, the inner walls should not be very hard and slightly rough so that the chicks can climb towards the parents who have arrived with food. Without this physical exercise, the chicks will not get on the wing properly and will not survive the flight for the winter or become victims of predators.

The following conditions: the birdhouse material should be moderately sound-permeable, keep heat as best as possible, and its structure should not have cracks. Reasons: the chicks should hear the arriving parents or a sneaking predator, but at the same time, their squeak should not spread far. In addition, the chicks of all hollow nesters are initially naked, the slightest draft can kill them, and wetting the nest will kill the entire brood for sure. Chicks, like all birds, emit quite a lot of heat, and in a warm, dry dwelling, they will have a much better chance of surviving a sudden cold snap.

About materials

Make a birdhouse best of all from edged, unplaned hardwood boards. Conifers are only suitable when aged, without visible streaks or a noticeable smell of resin. The best ones are used, from some sort of dismantled shed. The thickness of the boards is 20-30 mm, then the conditions of sound transmission and thermal insulation will be maintained. If the boards are planed, then the inside of the one where the notch will be must be “roughened”: treated with a large sandpaper, covered with notches or scratches with the tip of a knife or the corner of a chisel.

Note: in some cases, some other materials are suitable or even preferred, incl. and junk henchmen. We will talk about their application later.

Plywood is not suitable for birdhouses, even waterproof: it muffles sounds and does little to prevent heat loss. OSB, chipboard, fiberboard are absolutely unsuitable - birds are much more sensitive than us to pairs of phenol compounds. The nesting chamber made of artificial lumber on a phenolic binder of the highest consumer class for chicks will turn into a gas chamber. MDF, in which there are no phenolic resins, would, in principle, be suitable, but this is a material for internal use and, under the influence of precipitation, it will soon swell and become limp.

Enemies and defense

There are plenty of people who want to eat eggs or chicks in nature. In addition, the birdhouse can be occupied by newcomers “without a warrant”, or even extremely undesirable in the garden, such as, for example. sleepyhead Dormouse is interested in seeds in juicy fruits, and just a couple of these animals can spoil the harvest in the whole garden. Another birdhouse can be captured by squirrels, bats, and in Siberia, chipmunks. In general, there is no harm from four-legged invaders, but useful birds are deprived of nesting sites.

The worst destroyers of birdhouses are large woodpeckers, large motley and yellow. By the beginning of nesting time, these generally useful birds experience an acute shortage of animal protein, it is time for them to nest too, and for this, woodpeckers peck at birdhouses, destroying eggs and chicks. Nothing can be done, everything is poison and everything is a medicine, not only in medicine.

In second place in terms of danger to the brood are cats, domestic and wild. Small predators from the marten family, oddly enough at first glance, do not pose any particular danger to masonry and chicks: by the time the birds nest, they have at their disposal plentiful easily accessible prey - mice, voles.

Ways to protect the birdhouse from ruin are shown in fig. Pos. 1 - from woodpeckers: a tin collar 5-6 cm wide, upholstered with small studs at the same distance or an overlay made of straight-grained wood with fibers oriented horizontally; the fact is that woodpeckers can only peck a tree with vertical fibers. The latter method is preferable, because. the overlay does not rust and does not create inconvenience to the owners of the house. But keep in mind that the rest of the structure must be made of wood with fibers oriented vertically or obliquely, otherwise the bird house will quickly split.

Pos. 2 - protection from cats. The best way is an anti-cat “skirt”; it can be made from dry branches or pieces of wire. 1-2 short twigs at the root part are cut so that small inclined stumps remain, and the entire belt is fastened with a wire passing under them, without pulling it tight so as not to damage the tree. The "skirt" is placed at the same height as the lower tin belt, see below.

The threshold inside under the notch (at the bottom in pos. 2) is less laborious, but inconvenient for both the chicks and their parents. It is done if it is not possible to arrange an anti-cat belt. Another good remedy “from cats” is a wooden collar around the notch that protrudes outward by 3-5 cm.

Way to pos. 3 - tin belts - gives a full guarantee from both any predators and invaders. Indicated in fig. dimensions, in cm, must be maintained with an accuracy of 3-4 cm; they are designed so that potential destroyers cannot jump over the belts, then catching on to the bark, neither from below nor from above. Of course, on the section of the trunk between the belts there should be no branches, twigs, feeders and other supports for predators.

Note: a good way only from the invaders - hanging in the fall, before the cold, the so-called. temporary substitute birdhouses. We will talk about them further.

For starlings

Common starlings are the most frequent and most desirable inhabitants of birdhouses. Therefore, without going into details, let's see how to make a birdhouse for starlings. The common starling is a rather large bird for hollow nesters, and its relatives, the starling myna, etc., are even larger. Therefore, in general, a birdhouse, which is a birdhouse, is larger and deeper than the others, its notch is wider, and a hearth is definitely needed under the notch. Starlings prefer to nest in places inaccessible to predators, but with a good view, and the starling is the head of the family is very caring. He will sing a marriage song only if the chosen one has the opportunity to immediately inspect and accept the living space attached to the proposal of the wing and heart.

Drawing of the most popular birdhouse, the so-called. village type is shown in fig. The build order is:

Blanks are cut out of the board;
In the facade, a notch is cut in advance with a pen drill or a crown on a tree, a pole is inserted into the drilled hole, the inside of the front wall, if necessary, is “roughened”, as indicated above;
Sidewalls are glued to the bottom and right there - the front and back walls;
The box is leveled from the bottom and side walls, while the glue is liquid, and tied with twine until it sets;
The box is dried in a vertical position on a spread plastic film;
When the glue sets, the box is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, 2-3 for each glue line;
Trying on the cover blank without a lining, trim / cut the upper edges of the front and rear walls so that the roof lies tightly;
The lining of the lid is put on fluid glue, the lid is put in place, and supporting the lining with a finger through the notch, the roof is finally adjusted in place;
After the glue has set under the lining, it is pulled to the cover with 4 small nails or self-tapping screws.

This instruction for making a birdhouse is designed to use PVA glue. In the old manuals, from where the current authors write off a lot of really useful tips, it is recommended to assemble birdhouses on wood glue, but this is because there was simply no better PVA then. Compared to PVA bone carpentry glue:

Water resistant.
Plastic in the dried state: does not dry out, does not crack, provides complete tightness of the seams.
It allows, having smeared the parts with glue and immediately folding them, within 3-5 minutes to adjust the connection in place, slightly moving the parts casually, without breaking the adhesive layer.
Always ready to work, does not require the use of a glue cooker and other special equipment.
Used as an impregnating composition diluted 3-5 times with water, it allows the use of some waste hygroscopic materials for the birdhouse.
Cheaper than wood glue and more durable outdoors.

PVA has only 2 disadvantages before wood glue: its seam is plastic, which is not essential for a birdhouse that is not a sideboard or sofa, and after assembly on PVA, the product must be dried for at least a day in a warm room, and wood glue sets immediately.

When and how to hang?

Well, let's assume that the birdhouse is ready. When and how to hang it? There are 2 seasons for hanging birdhouses: in the fall, after harvesting, but before the cold weather, birdhouses are hung for wintering birds: titmouses, nest boxes for nuthatch and substitute birdhouses for invaders. Birdhouses for migratory birds, incl. starlings are hung in the spring, a week and a half before the start of the mating games of birds.

If you are familiar with ornithology, then you need to hang birdhouses, especially for certain types of birds (see below), by noticing the harbinger birds. They arrive in advance at the places of summering, spin there for several days, almost without eating, then fly off. There are always few harbingers, they examine the site, “report” to their relatives and, if everything is in order, a mass arrival begins. Among the points of the "report" is the nesting situation; if the harbingers spotted "fresh", i.e. obviously not competitive and not looked after by the destroyers of nesting places, they will not fail to notify their fellows about this in their own way, and the settlement of "new buildings" is ensured.

In case you have no birdwatching experience, you should hang nests in the Central Strip of the Russian Federation during March, but before the April heat hits. Here you can roughly navigate by the first thawed patches: when the tubercles “wilt” on them, you need to hang them. Somewhat more precisely - according to the weather, when the equinoctial storms pass; as meteorologists say, when the latitudinal movements of atmospheric masses in the temperate zone prevail over the meridional ones, but in places with a continental climate this sign is weakly expressed.

It will not be a mistake to hang birdhouses on the National Day of Birds (March 9) or on the first Sunday after it, but in this case, the probability is quite high that they will be occupied, and the harbingers will overlook them. From the first, however, you can insure yourself by hanging substitutes in the fall.

The second question is how to hang a birdhouse correctly? General rules:

The letok should be oriented to the east-southeast, so that in the spring the first rays of the Sun penetrate into it.
Suspension height 3-5 m.
It is preferable to hang on trees, so it seems safer for birds.
An exception is wagtails (see below), they must be hung under the roof of a barn (not a residential building!) At the same height.
Titmouse can be hung on the wall of the house, balcony or under the ceiling of the veranda, if the birds were regularly fed nearby during the winter.
A birdhouse for starlings can be carried up on a pole in a bare yard.
If the birds were fed in winter, the birdhouse should be no closer than 15-20 m from, so as not to attract the attention of the ruins.

A rather serious sub-question - how to attach a birdhouse to a support? To nail - the path to diseases with pests opens into the tree, and the benefits of birds can be lost in vain. In addition, cats can slowly tear off nailed birdhouses or, dropping the roof, grab chicks.

The main ways of hanging birdhouses and errors are shown in fig. According to pos. 1 bird house is attached if there is not enough thick wood. The method according to pos. 2 - optimal, it does not harm the tree at all, and the birdhouse holds firmly. According to pos. 3 birdhouses are attached to a pole. Please note: in the end, the birdhouse should be tilted down by 2-3 degrees, this will completely protect it from cats and make it easier for the chicks to feed.

At pos. 4 - incorrect, pseudo-ecological way of hanging with wire and a wooden block; in fact, it harms trees worse than nails, the block of wood soon falls out, the birdhouse begins to slosh. And finally, when hanging on a tree, protection from cats is necessary, pos. 5.

How to climb a tree?

Birdhouses are also hung in the forest, and even at home a ladder will not always help to climb a tree if it is spreading. That is, to hang a birdhouse, you have to climb a tree. The first thing to remember here is not to climb like children, clinging to branches. Let them race with squirrels or monkeys there, but you are two or three times heavier, if you fall from the same height, the impact will be about five times stronger, the bones in children are more elastic, and the internal organs are more resistant to deformations than in adults.

The art of climbing trees is called arborism, and those who are fond of it are called arborists. Arborists climb trees using a safety belt and special devices - gaffs, which, in essence, are the same claws. You can familiarize yourself with the technique of lifting on gaffs in the video:

Video: how to climb trees?

And about how to make gaffs yourself - from the video:

Video: homemade gaffs for climbing a tree

However, much less time-consuming and, paradoxically, statistically safer is the method of climbing with a rope loop, which has long been used by pickers of tropical fruits, see the video:

Video: how to climb a tree without knots?

But in any case, what is called as otchenash must be observed the following precautions:

Work only together, with the insurer downstairs, who knows how to provide first aid for bruises and fractures.
Have transport at hand so that you can quickly deliver the victim to a medical facility; all workers must be able to manage it.
Do not lift with a load; you need to attach a rope to your belt, and only then, having established yourself in place, lift a birdhouse on it and, if necessary, a bag with a tool.
The insurer must not come closer than 3 m to the place of possible fall of objects or the climber, taking into account the strength and direction of the wind.
The insurer must see the climber at all times; when it disappears from the field of view - immediately command the descent, and the climber must unquestioningly execute the command.
And most importantly: before starting the ascent, look out for yourself the path of descent and clearly understand the procedure for doing it.

Sinichniki and spetsstroy

You can attract many more useful, interesting and / or beautifully singing birds with the help of a birdhouse. But they are unlikely to settle in a birdhouse-birdhouse, great. Artificial nests for small songbirds are of various types; then we will figure out which of them which birds need. First of all, we will consider stationary birdhouses made of wood, and after them - temporary substitutes for wintering birds and distracting invaders from other materials.

Note: making special birdhouses, as a rule, is more difficult than usual ones. Therefore, before starting work, make sure that there are potential new settlers in the local avifauna, and be patient - they, except for tits, do not trust a person like starlings. A “small-singing” birdhouse can hang for a year or two until it is populated, and all this time you need to make sure that it does not dilapidate, is not littered, or is not occupied by someone else.

Who else is waiting?

Desired neighbors both in the city and on the plot will be, in addition to starlings and great tits, crested, blue tit, moskovka, long-tailed and chickadee (pos. 1-7 in the figure), also pikas, common and short-toed, or garden (pos. 8 ; common and short-toed pikas are almost indistinguishable from a distance), nuthatches (5 species in the Russian Federation; at pos. 9 - common), gray flycatcher, pos. 10, and a pied flycatcher, pos. 11. All these birds (pos. 8-11) are hollow nesters, actively destroying harmful insects.

For redstarts (at pos. 12 - coot redstart; you can also expect black and red belly) and robins (pos. 13), any of the titmouses described below will do. But the wagtail (pos. 14) needs a special "wagtail", because. The paws of this bird are not adapted for vertical climbing. You can build a birdhouse for wagtails, as if laying a school-type titmouse on its side, see below, and providing it with a kind of balcony, see fig. The "wagtail" must either be installed in a bare yard on a pole 2.5-3 m high, reliably protecting it from cats, or hung under the overhang of the roof of a non-residential building for the same purpose. But the new settlers will not keep you waiting and, walking on the ground, peck out a lot of pests, and so far no one has noticed grass from wagtails.

If a sparrow owl (pos. 15) is seen nearby and it was possible to attract it to the site - the owner is happy, and the pests are sorry: this little scoop is a living WMD for them. The small birds of the sparrow owl have nothing to be afraid of: it was so named not because it is somehow dangerous to sparrows, but because it is the size of a sparrow. The Owl, like the Sply Owl, can be tamed by feeding small pieces of raw meat and mealworms from time to time. He is friendly, his behavior is funny. But it will nest only in a nest box made of natural material (see below), and to make it, considerable skill is required, as for any owl house.

Types and designs

I. Sokolovsky was engaged in the design of birdhouses a lot. His developments served as the basis for many further designs. The device of 3 types of Sokolovsky's birdhouses is shown in fig; nests will be discussed later.

Sinichnik

On the left in fig. - a diagram of a titmouse based on a typical birdhouse.

Designations, as for the next. pos:

A - tap-hole diameter: 35 mm for the great tit, crested tit, blue tit, redstart and 30 mm for other tits and robins;
B - the side of the square bottom, 10 cm is enough. If the titmouse is intended only for great and crested tits, common in the city, then it is better to take B = 12 cm;
C is the height of the front wall, 22 and 25 cm in the same order as in paragraph 1;
D is the height of the back wall, 28 and 30 cm, respectively.

Note: the distance of the top of the notch from the top of the front wall is 5 cm and the roof extension is from 5 cm, as for a conventional birdhouse. Six in front of the notch is not needed.

Bird lovers, using the recommendations of Sokolovsky, are trying to create a birdhouse-titmouse suitable for any small songbirds. Projects of 3 such titmouses are presented in fig. They differ, in essence, only in the design of the roof. A school birdhouse is the easiest to make, no roof fitting is required. It was these that were mastered in Soviet schools at labor lessons, some students managed to make up to 3 products per lesson. Birdhouse-house better protects from cats and, especially, from precipitation. These are desirable to hang in rainy places, with a protracted spring. Flycatchers also nest in universal titmouses, but it is better to attract them with special birdhouses.

Note: if you make a bottom of 15x15 cm in a universal birdhouse (maximum according to projects), then it will turn into a birdhouse mainly for starlings. Other birds will occupy it if there are not enough starlings for all the hung.

Half-hollow and flycatcher

The gray flycatcher prefers to nest in half-hollows, similar to natural hollows in trees. The scheme of the half-hollow birdhouse is shown in the center in fig. with Sokolovsky's birdhouses. Dimensions:

A - 4 cm;
B - 10 cm (square);
C - 7 cm;
D - 14 cm.

Pied flycatchers are more likely to occupy hollows in horizontal or slightly inclined thick branches, so they want a birdhouse-house in the form of a cubic nesting chamber with an inner side of about 12 cm, installed with a “rhombus”, i.e. downward angle, see fig. on right. The front wall needs to be made larger, about 20x20 cm, to protect against cats. Taphole diameter - 40 mm.

Flycatchers start nesting comparatively late, when enough insects are breeding. By that time, heat is established, parents supply the chicks with high-calorie food in abundance, so that the thermal insulation of the flycatcher no longer has a decisive value. This circumstance can be used to more fully imitate the nesting habitual for these birds by building a birdhouse for flycatchers from a plastic bottle or can, see fig. A light-colored roof is a must, otherwise the chicks will die from solar overheating!

Note: as for other birdhouses from bottles, see fig. on the right, these are products, perhaps artistic, but not functional. The blank does not meet any of the requirements for the birdhouse. If the birds occupy such a nesting place, as they say, out of bitter need, then for a brood such a housewarming party ends tragically - it dies either in the cat's mouth, or having fallen out of the fledgling; birds abandon such chicks.

For pikas

A birdhouse for pikas has a very special design. These birds in nature nest in hollows with 2 holes in order to escape through an emergency exit if necessary. Therefore, in the "pischushnik" 2 notches are needed in the side walls. The birdhouse device for pikas is shown on the right in fig. with Sokolovsky's birdhouses. The common and short-toed pikas are similar in appearance, but differ in size, therefore the sizes of the nests for pikas differ, see table.

Note : artificial nests for pikas and are hung differently than for other birds - only on a tree and at a height of approx. 1 m from the ground.

duplyanki

Birdhouses-hollows are made from logs of straight-leaved deciduous trees 25-40 cm long and 15 cm in diameter. For hollow-nesting birds, this is the most comfortable, reliable and healthy housing. The percentage of death of broods in nest boxes is much less than in birdhouses.

The manufacture of a hollow in the simplest way is shown in pos. 1 fig. The wide bottom and lid, as in this case, are designed for wagtails. If, however, the notch is made not from the side, but in the lid closer to one of the corners, and the whole structure is hung on its side, orienting the nesting chamber with a rhombus, then you will get an excellent flycatcher. For other songbirds, the lid and bottom are cut to the size of the log-blank diameter.

Counsellor, pos. 2, it is more difficult to make, because owls are demanding on the configuration of the camera and do not tolerate slots in its sides and bottom. So you have to sweat, hewing the workpiece and gouging the camera. Dimensions in fig. fit and sparrow owl; the diameter of the notch for him is 4 cm, because all owls are heavily built.

Birdhouses are often hung in forests and parks. In this case, it should be taken into account that the composition of the bird contingent in broad-leaved, coniferous plantations and birch forests differs not only in species, but also in the average size of birds. The sizes of nest boxes for coniferous-deciduous forests / parks and birch forests are given in pos. 3.

About the design of hollows

A few words about the design of birdhouses in general will be said later. As for the hollows, they look good on trees even without additional decoration, on the left in fig. If you want to show your skill and taste, then they should really be skill and taste, combined with a subtle sense of material, in the center and on the right there.

Park birdhouses

The tradition of attracting songbirds to parks is widespread in Europe, and is developing in our country. Park birdhouses should, firstly, attract beautiful birds that sing loudly and beautifully; secondly, and themselves to be attractive in appearance to people. Of domestic structures of this kind, birdhouses of the Blue Reel type are popular, on the left in the figure, but the Germans prefer birdhouses-huts, painted in the color of foliage or bark, with a tin lining on the roof ridge, which perfectly protects from cats, right there. The diameter of the notch marked with (*) is chosen according to the type of birds, see above.

More about design

Birdhouses should be painted in discreet colors: this is not a feeder, bird housing should not attract attention. The shape of the birdhouse should be inconvenient for the ruins. For example, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. - unsuccessful. Both are clearly set low, a cat or a woodpecker has where and how to establish itself for ruin, and the first one is also brightly colored. But pos. 3 and 4 are both tasteful and functional enough. If pos. 3 to provide a collar around the notch, and on pos. 4 to make an anti-cat skirt from a tree oriented horizontally with fibers, then both birdhouses will become inaccessible to both predators and woodpeckers.

Atypical squatter

Sometimes you should not waste your energy and wood on a stationary birdhouse. Firstly, if it is intended for wintering birds, the same tits. They do not like to nest twice in the same place. over the winter, hungry ruins became familiar and the annual change of nesting site significantly increases the chances of survival of the brood. Secondly, you do not need to try very hard for the sake of the occupying animals. They need to be distracted from the fall with temporary wintering housing. Then in the spring, fearing to lose him too, they will not occupy the bird houses, and they will live through the summer anyway. In both cases, it is desirable to make a temporary birdhouse from a material that does not require special tools, labor-intensive processing and a separate workplace.

The first thing that comes to mind is paper. Paper birdhouses were invented by amateur poultry farmers in the USA, equipment for keeping and breeding pets is very expensive there. At home, in an aviary, in paper nests, it is indeed possible to breed budgerigars or, say, red cardinals. But you can’t seriously talk about a street paper birdhouse: the material is absolutely unstable. However, we give in Fig. a couple of patterns of birdhouses made of paper: on the left - a distracting substitute for four-legged invaders, and on the right - a bird one. They will be useful to us a little lower, and on occasion, using the same patterns, you can make a bonbonniere or a gift box.

Note: paper birdhouses have one more unpleasant property - bumblebees and, especially, wasps willingly settle in them. The latter build paper nests themselves, and here is the finished zero cycle. Having a swarm of hornets in your neighborhood is not only unpleasant, but can be very dangerous.

Temporary birdhouses are best made from cardboard impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion or liquid diluted PVA, then they will last outside from autumn to spring. The house is glued with the same PVA. The manufacturing technology according to the pattern is shown in fig. below. Pay attention to pos. 4: fold lines must be cut before bending; this is the only subtlety in this process.

Making according to a pattern gives a large waste of material, which is not always desirable, and there may simply not be a lot of cardboard in the closet. In such a case, in Fig. on the right is a method of cutting a cardboard strip into parts of a birdhouse.

If dormouse is seen on the site, then a winter trap for them is obtained from a box insulated with foam; it is possible from its pieces, see fig. left. Two sixes are needed to attract exactly the dormouse. It is difficult to catch an active sleepyhead, but it is not difficult to get rid of sleeping animals. There is no need to kill them: dormice are actually cute and funny, they are most likely to be taken to a pet store or bought by lovers of wild animals. They check Sonya's bedroom when a hard frost hits, just do not bring the discovered animal into the house. Dormouse do not fall into a real hibernation, they wake up in the warmth and go to roam the furniture and curtains.

Finally, good birdhouses are obtained simply from scrap materials, you just need to know the habits and preferences of birds. For example, a construction from a bucket and trimming a board, pos. 1 in fig. below, flycatchers will surely like it. House substitutes from empty cylinders (pos. 2 and 3) are well suited for small quadrupeds; if it's a squirrel, then why chase it? Birdhouse from a table beer or wine and cognac keg, pos. 4, it is unlikely to attract birds, it is too big, but bats, which are also very useful, will fit. A basket with a wicker lid, suspended under the roof of the veranda, will be willingly populated by tits, if they were fed and not offended in winter.

At pos. 6 is not such a curiosity as it might seem: it is soft and warm for the chicks, it is convenient for the bird (it seems to be some kind of nuthatch) to feed the brood, the woodpecker does not hammer the skin, and in cats the shoe is firmly associated with a crushed tail and broken sides. Finally, a plastic pot with slightly rough, durable walls can turn into a small owl house, pos. 7.

Direct benefit

The author once set out to calculate: what is the economic efficiency of a birdhouse on a plot of 6 acres “for himself”? The main share of the cost of the bird house fell on labor costs; the cost of working time was taken as 200 rubles per hour, which corresponds to a decent salary for that time of 32,000 rubles. With this in mind, a birdhouse and 2 titmouse cost about 1000 rubles.

After 4 years, while the birds were living, it turned out that only the savings on the purchase of vegetables, fruits and plant protection products compared to the same period without attracting birds is ... about 28,000 rubles, or 7,000 rubles per year! That is, birdhouses paid off 28 times, or 2800%. Wow profit!

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Summer season!For all of us, the happy owners of a country house, a house in a village or a summer residence, a personal plot, a garden and a vegetable garden, and for all those who only dream about it - I have prepared a lot thematic "dacha" albums and thousands of interesting ideas for a house and a summer cottage with your own hands, ideas for a plot, ideas for a garden and a vegetable garden with your own hands. I hope they will inspire you to new achievements and amazing finds in the design of your cozy rest and fruitful work!

For the soul and comfortable outdoor recreation- ideas for decorating the veranda and terrace of a country house, as well as - ideas for a small garden house, ideas for a summer bedroom, kitchen and even a summer shower! Ideas for interior design of summer cottages and country houses. DIY garden furniture ideas. Ideas for decorating a country house with your own hands.
For the soul and joy of the eyes- ideas for landscape design of a summer cottage, ideas for a small pond and a waterfall with your own hands, beautiful garden paths, ideas for decorating a garden and a vegetable garden, ideas for a flower bed with your own hands, ideas for garden decor with your own hands, ideas for a home and garden from improvised materials with your own hands - many, many amazing things! Get inspired!

The site about interior design InterierKlub has a lot of ideas for do-it-yourself interior design, ideas for home, summer cottage and garden! You may be interested in:

Do-it-yourself bird houses in the garden, unusual do-it-yourself bird houses.

Waking up with the first rays of the sun to the sonorous cheerful chirping of birds outside the window is one of the most magnificent charms of country life! It is our pleasant duty to take care of the feathered inhabitants of our garden. For some, some birds are garden thieves, I don’t know ... I don’t feel sorry for a few strawberries or currant sprigs for birds ... For me personally, birds are the greatest pleasure for the soul, eyes and ears. And what about without them?! Feeders and bird houses are the smallest, but very important thing that you and I can do for our little neighbors in the country house, plot and garden. For example, on our site there is always a bird cafe full of guests)) and several birdhouses, and also, my daughter’s treehouse has recently been occupied by a dove - a wood pigeon, it so happened that he came to us along the path (problems with wings) and stayed ... You won’t quit, after all!
But I will certainly use some of the ideas from my new collection and make some unusual bird houses for the next nesting season. It's so easy and so great! The main thing is to fix them where the ubiquitous cats won't get them))... Get inspired!

Ideas for a home and a summer cottage with your own hands, ideas for a garden and a vegetable garden with your own hands, ideas for a summer residence and a summer cottage with your own hands:
- Ideas from an old basin for giving
- Garden decor from flower pots
- DIY mosaic garden decor
- DIY garden decor ideas
- Flower bed from old shoes
- A flower bed from an old chair
- A flower bed from an old chest of drawers

Model Y. Sokolovsky

These birds are very selective in their choice of artificial nests. They rarely occupy ordinary titmouses. Of all the models proposed for pikas, the wedge-shaped house is most often populated. This house is made like this.

Take a fire board (tes, 20-25 mm) 120 mm wide, at least 400 mm long. The surface of the board does not need to be planed, and be sure to level the edges with a planer or jointer so that the connection is tight, without cracks.

Place this board on a workbench and cut it as shown in (a). The result will be two side walls in the form of right triangles. On one of the walls cut a semicircular hole - notch. It can be cut with a jigsaw or a circular bow saw.

Then take a board 140 mm wide and saw off two rectangles from it: one for the front wall 290 mm long, the other for the back wall 320 mm long.

Before assembling, nail an attachment plate (20X60x500 mm) to the rear wall from the outside. It is better to nail it not in the middle, but on the side (b). Then, when attaching the house to the tree, the right edge of the back wall will be pressed against the trunk (c), which is very important for this demanding vein of the house.

First, nail the back wall to the side walls, then the front. Before nailing the lid, seal all the cracks and pour 2-3 cups of dry sawdust or small shavings (lime, aspen, birch, oak, etc., but not coniferous) on the bottom.

The cover can be sawn off from a smooth, planed board in the form of a square 160X160 mm. Nail it so that the roof protrudes one or two centimeters forward above the notch.

To monitor the development of the chicks and to clean the nest, the cover can be made removable or openable. To do this, the upper edge of the cover must be connected to the back wall using metal eyelets (hinges, canopies) or a strip of rubber, leatherette, oilcloth, as shown in Figure (d). To attach the lid to the house, screw metal plates with holes for the screws on both sides of the lid (e).

Be sure to paint the house with oil paint, imitating the bark of a tree, in a grayish-brown or grayish-green color, depending on which tree the house will be hung on.

Pika does not fly away, winters with us. Therefore, a house for her must be attached to a tree no later than March 20-25, and always in the remote corners of a mixed forest.

So that the house does not sway in strong winds and the pika does not leave the nest forever, pull its right side to the trunk with a wire or rope (e).

Pika exterminates bark beetles in winter and summer, pulling them out of cracks and from under the bark of a tree with its long and thin beak.

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