How to make a baby sofa do-it-yourself drawings. We make a sofa with our own hands (100 ideas): a stylish and comfortable interior at no extra cost

The very impressive cost-effectiveness of a homemade sofa and the ability to manufacture it in accordance with individual wishes and requirements are popular reasons for self-assembly of home furniture.

It is important to understand that a sofa differs from a bed in that it has a fixed backrest and side armrests, which complicates the process of assembling it.

However, if you have an accurate drawing, quality materials and a strong desire, you can quickly and easily make a sofa with your own hands.

The first stage is planning

The first step to making a sofa should be a close acquaintance with photographs of hand-made furniture. In the process of searching, you can finally decide on the model of the future sofa, design and materials.

The initial stage involves the choice of a suitable model of sofa construction, among which the following types are most popular:

• "Euro-book", assuming the presence of an exit and folding mechanism;
• Sofa with wooden pallets, acting as a solid module and roomy space in the form of shelves or drawers;
• Corner sofa, characterized by its "L-shaped" shape and complexity of design.

The second stage - we are looking for materials

The first step is to look around and look for suitable options, because often unclaimed things can be turned into a stylish and comfortable sofa.

So, a tractor tire covered with fabric and soft filler and complemented by a characteristic back will be an interesting alternative to purchased furniture.

You can also give a second life to an old cast-iron bathtub by cutting off one side and stitching a suitable mattress. Also, the basis of the sofa can be a profile pipe, to which two sheets of thick plywood or OSB boards are attached and decorated with mattresses.

To make a sofa from scratch, the following materials are required: a wooden block, board, plywood or chipboard, foam rubber, batting, upholstery fabric, PVA glue.

You can not do without the following set of tools: screwdriver, screws, sandpaper, electric jigsaw, hacksaw, tape measure, ruler.

To make the cover and upholstery, you need a knife, scissors, a stapler and a sewing machine.

The third stage - assembly

There are many schemes with which you can assemble a sofa with your own hands. For example, to assemble a pallet structure, pallets are fixed in pairs and sidewalls are fixed on them. The same wide cushions are used as the seat and back.

To make a corner sofa with your own hands, you need to make three interconnected blocks. The first rectangular and the second square block represent the smaller side of the structure, and the third is a folding or retractable sofa seat.

The base of each block is a frame made of plywood or chipboard, fixed on a frame made of timber. In the first and second compartments, removable covers are provided in advance. The third block is equipped with a drawer-seat on wheels.

Stage four - upholstery and covers

Further surface treatment and do-it-yourself upholstery and covers will help to sheathe the sofa, increase its comfort and give it an aesthetic appearance.

First, all the sharp corners of the product are sanded with sandpaper, covered with paints and varnishes, after which, using a stapler or glue, batting or thin foam rubber is fixed on the prepared surface.

It is better to order fabric for self-upholstery of a sofa in a specialized store according to the exact dimensions. The material is fixed in invisible areas with a stapler, while the cover must be tightly pulled, and it is advisable to make an incision in the place of the future staple.

Note!

The scheme for making sofa cushions is simple: sew one or more cushions according to the size of the base, fill them with foam rubber, sew them and lay them on the product.

Fifth stage - necessary repairs

To extend the life of a new sofa, you need to regularly monitor its condition, if necessary, repair and eliminate shortcomings with your own hands.

However, with self-assembly of the structure and upholstery of the sofa, it will not be difficult to monitor it and respond to damage in time.

If you have the time, materials, and desire to create, then trying to make a sofa with your own hands can be a great start for future achievements.

It is better to start with simple models, gradually improving skills, supplementing standard options and increasing the functionality of the product.

Note!

DIY sofa photo

Note!

The sofa is one of the most important elements of the interior of any apartment or house. It should be comfortable and beautiful, durable and resistant to dirt, especially if there are small children in the family. What if the products presented in the store cannot satisfy all wishes, and the purchase of a sofa created according to your order does not fit into the family budget? For a real man who knows a lot about carpentry, the answer is obvious, to create a sofa with your own hands. Drawings and diagrams of a home-made piece of furniture can be very diverse, as well as its shape, texture and upholstery colors. We will tell you how to make your dream come true and make a sofa yourself without spending money.

A few arguments for motivation in favor of making a sofa with your own hands:

1. Good cost savings. However, we urge you not to put economy at the expense of quality. In cases where you are not sure of the result, use the services of professionals.
2. The design of such a piece of furniture will be created specifically for your interior. according to your size and dimensions.
3. A do-it-yourself sofa will always be of high quality, because. you are responsible for this aspect.
4. For the manufacture, you can use high-quality wood, environmentally friendly and reliable upholstery materials. Modern fittings will give the sofa a "professional" look.
5. Repair of such furniture is carried out at a time, because. this is much easier to do if you know where and how everything works. ​
6. By assembling the sofa yourself, you will enjoy the creative process, satisfaction with the result and an increase in self-esteem, of course.
7. This is enough to get started.

If in your mind a suitable project is already ready, feel free to get to work. The first thing that will come in handy is a drawing of the sofa with all the necessary dimensions, as well as assembly diagrams. Drawings and diagrams can be found on the Internet or, if you have certain skills, you can create it yourself. Unfortunately, there are no ready-made programs for designing upholstered furniture, and this would greatly simplify the life of modern homemade ones. We offer a range of common ideas and sought-after sofa shapes that can be slightly modified to your liking.

Do-it-yourself corner sofa

Corner modular sofa is a very comfortable thing. It is large enough to seat all guests. In addition, it can be transformed depending on your mood. If you place a drawer or drawer on wheels in it, you can also get additional storage space.

Here's what you need to make such a sofa:

• jigsaw;
• grinder;
• electric drill;
• stapler for furniture;
• sewing machine (if you decide to sew a sofa cover yourself);
• screwdriver;
• Chipboard (thickness from 12 mm);
• wooden bars with a section of 30x50 mm;
• plywood (thickness from 5 mm);
• cotton fabric for the back;
• metal corners, self-tapping screws;
• upholstery fabric;
• foam rubber or other stuffing filler (holofiber, batting, coconut fiber);
• spring blocks;
• necessary accessories (for example, legs).

The list of materials depends on the result that you would like to receive at the end of the work.

Advice! Do not use nails to assemble parts. Such a connection will quickly loosen, and the sofa will creak and lose its shape.

The order of work is as follows:

1. At the base of each module there is a frame made of chipboard (MDF or furniture board, at your discretion) and bars. The parts are fastened together with corners and self-tapping screws. It is preferable to pre-drill holes at the joints for screwing in self-tapping screws, which will protect the material from delamination. The bottom is closed with a sheet of thin material (plywood, fiberboard).

1. The finished box is closed on top by chipboard. There are options here. You can fix the plate completely, or you can use hinges, then you get a storage box. Sofa modules can have hinged covers or be tightly closed at your discretion.
2. The next step is to form the back. The ends of the back are fastened to the front. Fiberboard is mounted at the back and covered with cotton cloth using a furniture stapler.

1. The back is pasted over with foam rubber or other filler, the ends of which are fixed with a stapler. The same should be done with the outer side parts of the sofa. From above in the future the cover will be pulled. It can be made independently or to order.

1. The above manipulations should be done with all the modules of the sofa.

Advice! Before assembly, make all the details of the sofa, sand them with a grinder or sandpaper, and treat them with a special tool to protect them from mold and insects.

1. You can decorate such a sofa with pillows or other means at your discretion.

sofa upholstery

To create soft parts, the main material, as a rule, is foam rubber (density 35 kg / m3) in two layers. The foam rubber must be covered with a non-woven material in order to avoid possible friction between the decorative cover and the base, as well as sticking, slipping and wrinkling on the final sofa cover.

The upholstery of the sofa deserves special consideration. You can simplify the work and fit with fabric upturns at the corners.

However, this is unreliable and short-lived. You should make a cover with sewn corners. This is one of the arguments in favor of a custom case. If you are not sure that you will succeed, trust the professionals, this will save time and money.

Use foam mats to make pillows. Covers for them are traditionally sewn inside out. A zipper (hidden) is sewn into the last open seam for easy removal and washing of the cover.

Pallet sofa

In order not to waste time on making a sofa frame, you can use wooden pallets for this purpose. They make just designer things and, it should be noted, not only sofas.

Do-it-yourself sofa from an old bath

A semi-finished product for a sofa can be not only wooden pallets. The main thing is your inspiration and creativity. For example, a great sofa can be made from an obsolete cast-iron bath (you can also use steel). Do not rush to throw it away, let's see what it will fit.

If you have an old bath, remove the legs and clean the surface of the paint. Figuratively cut off one of the walls with a grinder. Sections will need to be carefully sanded. What happened, cover with the dye of the desired shade. The legs, which have been cleaned, sanded and painted separately, are attached at the very end. It remains to build a soft seat from improvised means and decorate the sofa.

How do you like this turn of events. Here's what it looks like.

If you think that a sofa can be extremely complex and pretentious, then we hasten to dissuade you. Even the simplest design can amaze with its sophistication, and most importantly, individuality. In any case, you will amaze your guests and household members.

Thus, it is possible, and in some cases even necessary, to make a sofa with your own hands. If you have at least minimal skills as a carpenter and joiner, designer and seamstress, then you definitely have no reason to refuse to realize your dream. We hope that for inspiration we have done everything that is needed. It's up to you!

The sofa is the most important part of the interior. It is he who is the hallmark of every home, so he needs to be beautiful, reliable, practical. But the models presented by stores are often unusually expensive. The best solution is to create this piece of furniture yourself, which will save a huge share of the family budget.

In addition, for the sake of repairing a sofa made by yourself, it makes no sense to call the master. Knowing his device, it is easier to fix the breakdown yourself.

Comparing a photo of a do-it-yourself sofa and a purchased one, it is sometimes difficult to find significant differences in quality. By strictly adhering to the instructions, anyone can make a first-class product with their own hands.

This will require the following tools:

• jigsaw;
• special stapler for furniture;
• screwdriver or drill;
• grinder (a simple planer will do);
• sewing machine;
• sharp knife and scissors;
• roulette.

Types and drawings of sofas are varied, but the main components of the product always remain:

• frame;
• mattress frame;
• back;
• side parts;
• stuffing;
• fabric upholstery.

To make them you will need:

• wooden bars 40-50 mm in cross section;
• plywood with a thickness of 5 mm;
• stuffing (foam rubber, holofiber, batting);
• furniture belts (optional);
• textile material (batting, synthetic winterizer);
• furniture fabric;
• strong thread for stitching upholstery;
• screws, corners, self-tapping screws.

The instructions for assembling the sofa are simple. The main thing here is the sequence of actions.

frame

Made from long bars. To give additional rigidity, plywood, chipboard, OSB and other sheet materials are used.

All this is fastened with self-tapping screws, screws and corners. They can be lubricated with glue before being screwed in, having previously drilled holes. For convenience, you can first connect the parts with glue.

Mattress frame

It is made from a solid sheet of chipboard or from fastened boards with a binding of furniture belts. It is not difficult to make it: first they are fastened with a stapler vertically, then the belts are intertwined with them and fixed horizontally (perpendicularly). Thanks to the binding, this piece of furniture will be perfectly springy.

Back and sides

Usually hollow inside. At the back, the frame is sheathed with a sheet of plywood and covered with a cloth, fixing it with a stapler. The ends are connected to the front side. With the help of metal corners, you need to fix the back on the base.

You can give it a sloping shape, adjust the slope as you wish. The sides are made in the same way. Then, all the sharp ends of the resulting base are sanded with a grinder or planer to avoid rapid wear of the upholstery.

pasting

It is most convenient to use high quality foam mats, in order to avoid the appearance of holes on the surface, with a density of 35 kg/m3. Having measured the pieces of the required size, you need to paste over the back from above and in front, the side parts from the inside, the plane over the binding.

The ends of the foam rubber can be fixed with a stapler. After the glue dries, these elements are wrapped in batting or synthetic winterizer in order to achieve volume and smooth out irregularities.

Upholstery

It is better to sew covers according to patterns already prepared in advance. When this is not possible, you can, instead, apply the fabric to different elements and immediately stitch or make it easier and tighten it by turning it at the corners, but this method is not reliable. It is better to entrust the matter to professionals and contact the studio, where they will do all the work for you.

After all this, the easiest thing is to assemble. It will take only 2-3 days of diligent work.

When assembling a sofa with their own hands for a summer residence, people want to use any materials at hand at no particular cost. Then, cheap or unnecessary parts can serve as a replacement for expensive ones. The result is a combination of original design, style and functionality.

For example, you can take wooden pallets. They are sold for pennies in the construction markets, for example. Used pallets should be thoroughly cleaned and washed. Then, even new panels should be sanded, if necessary treated with a water-repellent primer or painted.

It is not at all difficult to assemble a sofa from furniture panels. You just need to cut them with an electric jigsaw, measure the appropriate sizes, and fasten them with self-tapping screws. After, cover with paint and varnish and allow to dry. As a result, it remains only to make soft seats.

An unusual design move will be its manufacture from an old, outdated bath. To do this, remove the legs from it, clean the surface of the paint, cut off one wall with a grinder and grind the bumps.

The whole product is painted, the legs, processed separately, are returned to their place. It remains only to attach the seat and, if you want, trim the walls with soft components.

DIY sofa photo

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, a sofa is a very complex product, one of the most difficult in furniture production, so the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, relatively little functional and not very strong and durable. This publication is designed to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will pass on to their grandchildren, unless they have to be pulled over. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for summer cottages, nurseries, temporary use, until the money is collected for furniture) is quite possible in the garage, shed and even on the balcony. Furniture makers of the old days worked that way. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, during its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more labor-intensive and requiring skill with more ingenuity than a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor, but produced with a hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is a corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially evident in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping and living sofa-corner, pos. And in the figure, folded, it has no sleepy look and the most terry orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (in the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded, it turns into a double bed. These are also called sofas for bachelors: I’m tired, I’m not up to it - I’ll fall asleep on a single bed. And another (or forever the only) passion came - enough space for two to get settled, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, nothing complicated: uniformly designed and put together a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in a corner is not only a bad omen, but also uncomfortable, therefore, in recent years, the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The scheme of the device of such a kitchen corner is shown in fig. below. You can dine alone on it if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and wardrobe trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade products, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - according to the place in the room; other dimensions are typical, see below. The material of the sidewalls is a hardwood board 40 mm or chipboard 36 mm. The bottom of the sofa - chipboard 12-16 mm on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board 30 mm, bars 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-tree tie-in, all with PVA gluing or Moment. Materials at current prices require no more than 3,000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (bearing) structure, most often including a box, a bed - sofas, in the presence of a lifting box, a back and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a box. Typical dimensions of the sofa:

• Length - 1200-1900 mm.
• Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
• The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
• Back height, no add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
• Back tilt - 5-20 degrees.
• The height of the "sitting" surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

• Legs - 50-70 mm.
• Carrier frame - 50-100 mm.
• Box - 150-250 mm.
• The bottom of the sofa (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

Thus, up to 120 mm remains for the soft stuffing with lining. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work on making a sofa is its stuffing, sheathing and tightness. These are different production operations; each of them individually and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves in Runet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for tightening; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, serious preparatory work will be required. Its essential subtleties will be described later; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. The pros don't work much for them. it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of prosperity?), when it was necessary to sign up for furniture upholstery for a year, and even give a bribe, it was also successfully used by "full dummies". The sofa is stitched step by step as follows:

1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (can be propylene);
2. Install soft padding, most often - foam mats;
3. They fit soft, in order of preference, spandbond, synthetic winterizer, batting;
4. On a piece of decorative fabric, the backstage is swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightenings are provided, see below;
5. A decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown onto the product with the inside out, pulled off, as described below, and the corners are swept with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
6. After a day, they check to see if it wrinkles somewhere, if it sags, if the pattern, especially geometric, has led, and if necessary, correct the corners;
7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
8. Pull cords into the backstage for tightening, if necessary;
9. They throw a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
10. After another day, they check according to the drawing, adjust the tension threads ;;
11. Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
12. Form decorative ties.

The procedure, as you can see, is quite complicated and long. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Home-made templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the consumption of tissue. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut 150 cm wide is equal to 2 sofa widths + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the cut length using templates (allowance - from 15 cm) saves up to 1 m in length (!); how much it is in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being reupholstered, it is undesirable to use the old sheathing as a pattern. Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clearly seen that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same machine, jacquard or tapestry.

Additional explanation is also required. 1-3. If you fill the skin hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while it will turn out that the skin is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what is this life span for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads from below and from above to wick away fumes/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and box, if the design of the item does not provide for any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. The lapels of the fabric at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection, because. vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in the tracks came to his mind when he was repairing his sofa. It is not surprising that a rich man himself was busy with furniture, Christie was an engineer of the second kind. The Ι clan shifts papers at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do with his hands everything he has thought of.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the box (in the simplest case, piano / card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be stiff with the mattress loose on it. In any case, the sofa is also upholstered in advance separately.

A special case is office sofas, etc., operated in adverse conditions with the possibility of inaccurate use. Their carrier system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there with confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and accessories, "oblique screws" are economical and technologically advanced and therefore are widely used in the industrial production of furniture of classes up to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and immediately in 2 mating parts. And self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in fig. It fits best in the gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, pillows are brought / taken away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (it can be worked out) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finishing - acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

To the dacha, where the rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a home-made sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. rice. Its basis is strong sidewalls-armrests and a pair of transverse beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

• Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen), chipboard 30-36 mm.
• Drawer - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
• Leg beams - any industrial wood.
• The back is the same, a shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still come in handy for us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the beams from the timber, but also to the sidewalls from the inside in a zigzag (snake) with a step of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a greater proportion of dynamic sign-variables, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers is assembled, shown on the right in the figure; box assembly diagram down there on the right. The material of all valleys is oak/beech 30 mm; sidewalls and the bottom of the sofa plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - on glue.

Note: it is not worth using laminated chipboard - only the E0 phenol class is acceptable for children's furniture, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, it will not work to lift the sofa back: the back is in the way. It remains to move forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not a tall two-meter tall, how can she put / get something? To roll over entirely in a box and squeak, jerking slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa couch with it, is shown in fig.

Note: the author knows a curious case with an oblique rhombus. A drunken but skilled man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubbyholes behind the levers (they say, there are also some kind of mechanics there) and arranged hiding places for bottles with the necessary swill in them. He even brought the tubes under the lining behind the back. And the better half is more than 10 years old, until he went into a deaf bogged down and did not split himself, and it was not clear why this day is a day drunk, and he does not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and in the professional world, innovative works appear all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for unfolding a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either he wedges / seizes, then it’s hard for ladies’ hands to assemble / disassemble the sofa, then it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the chosen sample finds that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with a fairly high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, lovers most often make sofa beds roll-out / pull-out.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is the legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break, a sofa that sags when extended will help.

The bridge scheme is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, they will have to reach out to them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge scheme is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides/stops) run in the troughs of the drawer. Pay attention to children. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but just a decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half-bed A is often made to lean forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by an overlay C. Then small boxes D open. hidden caches and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space is required behind the back. What does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console scheme are deprived of this vice, now for some reason they are completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a cantilever sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and an increase in the height of the back, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal twin bed). The excess width of the seat in the assembled form in this case is compensated by the pillows, which, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the hozblok), they are stored in a box. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood pad under the bottom wing of the hinge.

The main materials are 50x30 bars and 4-6 mm plywood. On the basis of the armrests - cohesive waste construction timber. The frame of the console is the same design as for the drawer. Connections - through spikes or met. corners, anyway. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is desirable to increase the height of the console, and put the box on its legs.

About eurobooks

The concept of the euro is now as soon as not exaggerated. Moldovans, for example (they have experience of communicating with local migrant workers), dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk euros (totally, to death, to a green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet for the most part (no constipation or diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed is now often on sale for a reason, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but the click-clack-type eurobook sofa (see fig.), This is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To get a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also recline. How to call them is not clear. It doesn't look like headrests. Sidebars, right? When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are blocked by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where to get it? Unless in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is typical for the current, and not only the current, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a click-clack sofa-book is well.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill-cut? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is fitted must be fitted before the general assembly. How to fit, we will discuss after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and box

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on deaf spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture lives on such for centuries, but to make them, you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it or virtuoso possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Cross section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 with glue.

The box is best assembled on the bosses of a triangular section from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened with box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with gluing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you are not too lazy and assemble the box on the dowels before installing the bosses, a pair per joint.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the stapler's staples do not fit well into it, many bend and tear the skin; wallpaper nails - too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile, delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet, it can simply fail, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to pull the sofa, the bottom of the chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material is picked open so that you can no longer attach a new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if a box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood the width of the length of the sofa are not produced. Pieces need to be connected so that the joint is kept on weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are trimmings that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped hardwood plank, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a “cut” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its inner width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsargs (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner with a thickness no less than that of plywood. It will give the beam rigidity, and without it, sheets assembled end-to-end, under workloads, will begin to delaminate each other mutually. Everything is assembled on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

They connect the box to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length for long sides.

Note: if the box is without bulkheads, the height of the back should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back side of the box will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (pos. 1 in the figure) is the side member A from a solid board (120-150) x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplifying the work, they make it a composite of sections, but it will be stronger in one piece. This is cut flush into vertical racks and placed first on dowels. It is also desirable to assemble the entire frame first on the dowels, and then fasten the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. Bosses in this case can simply be timber trimmings, tk. The interior volume of the back is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the base frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of bottom slab made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. Together with the spar and rectangular parts of the uprights, it makes up the lower back belt. This is a very responsible node, because. the normal operating load of reclining people tends to tear it off the lower support.

The normal number of racks for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly in length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the back is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm or more. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something upstairs or when they drag the sofa by the back when moving furniture. Also here, the upholstery is most likely to crawl and wrinkle, so the upper timber is planed into the same plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. So it is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but it is not necessary to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. On the last one there is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards? How long will this sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with a support is just the case when metal fasteners in furniture are needed. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the details of the back with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads in the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are also spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

Corners, on the other hand, need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bheaviest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally below. Better 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use 60x40 unequal corners with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely fitted. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to put the upholstery folds into the junction of the backrest and the support, and it will not work to fit it after installing the armrests.

armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or frame, like a backrest. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The loads on them are less, therefore they are fixed from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in an envelope or a snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made framed. In fact, technologically they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside reaches the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional lathing of laths approximately 30x40 and inserts from boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the back racks, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-tree tie-in with reinforcement with self-tapping screws on glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars must be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears in this case, but there is a significant advantage when tightening: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the box, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa lining (the most loaded one) lies more evenly and holds on tighter.

Upholstery

Upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a turn, as in Fig. on the right, the method is common, but therefore no better. According to GOST USSR, tucked-in upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second is for more prone to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But note that the numbers in Fig. indicative, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on turned inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam, it is bent and left free during the firmware.

Next comes the tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the sheathing with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then the cover is pulled with a harsh thread from the underside along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, they achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should be, the edges are fixed with an indent from the edge of the fabric of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, they are attached with a collar.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the box are upholstered, as shown in fig. The box is on 3 sides, the back remains open. So it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press the fabric. In extreme cases, the sofa blank is placed on a pair of stools. Tightening the back just won’t work, because. it is already attached to the base. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom they are pulled on tragus, like a sofa, and for tightening from the sides, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support. Well, the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

1. The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
2. The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (back bottom) seam is left unsewn;
3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
4. Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tight fittings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the joints between them. A smooth sofa does not harmonize with any design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with ties, see fig. 2 options are also possible here, for less and more dense fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightenings, and the tightenings themselves are made when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, front wings (sleeves-tunnels) are stitched on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by pulling either the cords or the tension threads of the cover alternately.

beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew backstage, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical) wooden surface of a suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or a doghouse.

The ends are stripped of insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British, British, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently emerging vein of the wire does not stick into a sensitive place, they are wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

One-piece sofa cover - this is the aerobatics of wallpaper business. However, suddenly a shabby but strong sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the attic of the grandmother? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them with knowledge of the matter, then they will take a moderate fee and put your soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in "1001 Nights", know that the basis for tightening the one-piece cover is the lines of the sofa's interface with the armrests and back. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (outer) and trisectors of triple (internal) along grooves in a wooden frame and, for triple corners, through holes in it. The cords are moderately pulled, their ends are fixed and then they straighten and pull the cover.

Backstage for cords can be, depending on the design, facial or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the backstage seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: in general, the machine is the main problem when sheathing the sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check if it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than #20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

And sooner?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Couldn't it be somehow quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, to a new apartment? To sketch any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From construction pallets - pallets - they do a lot of things, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the principle of an adirondack-type garden chair, on the left in fig. A little more difficult of them is to build a rustic-style retractable sofa bed, in the center. And having applied (with a tool, not to a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you can’t immediately say that it is from a decommissioned container, on the right. For example, see which sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens the same ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a funny sofa. Comments are not required, what is in Fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...

Do you have a small apartment? Then try to make a corner sofa with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions and drawings will help you in the manufacture of simple and compact furniture. Corner sofas will succinctly fit into the design of the kitchen, nursery or living room.

How to make a corner sofa with your own hands

For the production of a sofa, a drawing is made with the calculation of the number of parts and their dimensions. Materials must be taken without frills. Materials with complex connections are quite difficult to assemble on their own. For fasteners, self-tapping screws are considered the best option. Also, when connecting some elements, special glue is required. Align surfaces well before gluing.

The wooden surface is stained or varnished in several layers. Sawed small parts are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Such a surface becomes stronger and more durable.

Materials for making a corner sofa

1. Pine timber with a section of 3 by 5 centimeters;
2. Chipboard 1.6 centimeters thick;
3. Fiberboard 0.3 cm thick;
4. Plywood having a thickness of 1.5 centimeters and 0.5 centimeters;
5. Foam rubber 2 and 4 cm thick;
6. Batting, fabric (dense) for upholstery;
7. Holofiber or synthetic winterizer;
8. Furniture legs in the amount of 9 pieces. You will also need a microlift (lifting mechanism).

For the production of a sofa you need:

• Electric jigsaw
• Hacksaw and miter box,
• Furniture stapler with staples
• screwdriver
• Perforator
• Self-tapping screws and bolts
• Wood glue
• Sewing machine

Step by step instructions for making a sofa

Step 1. If you are planning to make a sofa for yourself, then when you buy chipboard, provide drawings and ask them to cut the slabs according to the indicated dimensions.

Step 2 Then all the parts must be marked and laid out in accordance with the marking.

Step 3 Frame, seats, armrests, backrest must be in the order of assembly. Details are twisted, starting with large ones and ending with small ones.

Step 4. Two identical sidewalls are prepared and horizontal bars and vertical racks are attached to them. They are fastened with ties. This is the frame of the left side.

Step 5.For the left side, the base is assembled, that is, the frame for the seat. It is inserted into the frame, and a plywood sheet is fixed on top. A fiberboard sheet is attached to the back.

Step 6. Then the assembly of the other (right) side of the sofa begins, this part includes a box for linen. On the sides are attached longitudinal, transverse bars.

Step 7 The bottom of the frame is covered with plywood. The back is attached and a chipboard sheet is screwed. The sides are sheathed with blanks. The back part is sewn up with a chipboard sheet. Holes for the microlift are made with a perforator. Bolts are taken for fasteners of the brand 6 by 30 with special hats for furniture.

Step 8. The frame parts are filled with foam rubber. The foam must match the size of the part to be filled. For this, a measure and a template are made, blanks are made according to it. The part is glued to the surface. The seat is padded with 10 cm thick foam.

Step 9. For the upholstery of the sofa, patterns are first made and cut out from the blank fabric. To facilitate the work, you can spread the fabric on the seat and mark the edges with a bar of soap or chalk. Cutting material is made from the outside. Allowances are 1-2 centimeters on all sides. Recesses in the skin, that is, drawstrings with or without sewn on buttons, make the sofa more spectacular.

Step 10. Places for pulling loops are pre-drilled in the plates. For tightening, a loop is made, which is sewn to the upholstery. Loops are made of kapron strong cord.

For less abrasion, agrotextile is laid under the upholstery on foam rubber. The upholstery is fixed with staples using a stapler. When everything is upholstered, the elements are combined into one design.

We offer to see the drawings of the corner sofa:

With the right cutting of materials and assembling everything together, you get a comfortable, beautiful and inexpensive corner sofa. It can serve for many years and the quality will be no worse than the factory one. Now you can make not only do-it-yourself repairs, but also high-quality and beautiful furniture.