How to properly drain water from a bath. How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

At the planning stage of the bath, it is necessary to provide for a reliable and efficient drainage system. Modern water drainage from the bath is constructed taking into account all construction and sanitary standards for engineering networks of this type.

A safe drain in the bath will protect the structure and base from decay and destruction, prevent the development of pathogens and the occurrence of a musty smell.

Drainage options

There are several affordable and reliable options for organizing drainage in the bath:

• is the easiest and cheapest way. It is used for a building designed for 2-3 people. The pit is arranged directly under the foundation of the bath, the walls are lined with brick or sand mixture. Pumping of sewage from the drain pit is carried out by a special cleaning machine.
• For baths designed for large companies, it is better to lay a pipe with a drain into a sewer well. This is a more laborious and costly way.
• Filtering sewer. The method involves the installation of a special tank, the bottom of which is lined with any available material that acts as a filter - slag, crushed stone, broken bricks, etc. Silt containing bacteria is poured onto the top soil layer. They contribute to the rapid and effective purification of wastewater.
• . This is the most expensive option for removing wastewater from the bath. The system consists of a septic tank, drainage pipes and a distribution well.

Features of the arrangement of floors

Efficient removal of moisture and runoff from the steam room or washing room depends on the proper arrangement of the floor and the drainage hole.

In modern baths, floor bases can be concrete or wooden.

The choice of flooring option is determined by the type of building. In the case of the construction of a capital bath, which will be used throughout the year, it is better to equip the base of concrete with high-quality waterproofing. For wooden buildings that will be used only in summer, it is enough to make flooring from wooden boards.

Wooden floors

Bath floors made of wood are leaking and non-leaking.

The design of the leaking flooring is simple and reliable. It provides for the presence of small technological gaps of 5 mm between the boards, which serve to drain water under the foundation of the building. Such gaps perform two functions - they effectively remove wastewater outside the building, and also provide natural ventilation of the room.

If necessary, wooden floors can be dismantled and dried. For the implementation of drainage in the floor of the bath, it is recommended to additionally install a pit of a hermetic structure under the building, which serves to discharge water into the sewage pit. To prevent the appearance of mustiness, a water seal is installed in such a system.

Leak-proof wooden floors have a more complex structure, which is mounted on a concrete base, with a slight slope towards the drain hole. Boards are installed quite tightly in two layers. Such a design is not subject to dismantling and drying.

Concrete floors

Floors based on a concrete screed are a complex multilayer structure:

• gravel pad with drain hole;
• concrete screed;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• concrete screed;
• cement screed with a reinforcing base;
• facing ceramic tiles.

When arranging a concrete base, also observe the slope towards the provided drain hole.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to organize a reliable system for collecting wastewater inside the bathhouses.

Efficient bath drain system

Organizing a reliable drain in the bath with your own hands is quite simple, the main thing is to carefully study the step-by-step guide and follow all the recommendations.

As a rule, the main work is carried out at the stage of laying the foundation foundation - columnar or tape type.

• First, a trench is dug under the foundation. A sewer pit is being prepared where the floors of the washing and steam rooms are supposed to be placed.
• A trench of suitable depth is laid from the pit, taking into account the level of groundwater. It is designed to install a drain pipe to remove wastewater from the pit to a special storage tank or well. When laying the pipe under the foundation, it is important to observe a drain slope of 5 degrees. To prevent its freezing, a modern heat-insulating material is additionally used.
• Laying the foundation with the arrangement of waterproofing protection.
• The top layer of soil is removed along the inner perimeter of the foundation, taking into account the slope of 11 degrees from the pit in relation to the walls of the foundation.
• To maintain the slope, its slopes are covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction and rammed. You can also use a concrete mixture, but before that, you should equip a drain hole.
• After organizing the pit and the sewage system, a frame and wooden beams are mounted on the foundation for the floor. In this case, the foundation is subject to additional waterproofing, and the beams are subject to treatment with antiseptic preparations.
• Boards 2 cm thick are mounted on top of the beams, which are the basis for the bath floor. The minimum distance between individual elements is 5 mm.

Arrangement of a drain well or reservoir

How to make a drain using a special tank, where should the drains be drained?

In a well with a drain, the bottom is covered with a special filter layer. It provides wastewater treatment with their subsequent withdrawal into the ground. To organize the filter layer, various building materials are used - sand, gravel, crushed stone, broken bricks. For a building for 4 people, a small well is suitable - 200 cm deep, up to 150 cm in diameter.

The optimal distance for placing the well from the bath is 3.5–5.5 meters. To increase the wear resistance of the tank, its walls are reinforced using concrete rings, car tires or brickwork. To simplify the work as a reservoir, you can use a standard barrel made of plastic or metal with a cut off bottom, up to 250 liters. The finished tank is closed with a metal or concrete lid, covered with earth.

Step-by-step process of arranging a tank with a drain using a barrel of the required volume:

• Choosing a place to install a drain tank from the building;
• Digging a hole, the depth of which should be below the permissible level of freezing of the earth. Diameter - 35 cm more than the circumference of the container.
• Laying a sand cushion on the bottom to a level of up to 13 cm, tamping.
• Laying an 11-cm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, tamping.
• Preparation of a side hole in the wall of the barrel for the installation of a drain pipe.
• Prepare a hole in the bottom of the drum for a hose that provides sufficient ventilation.
• Screwing the nut and seal on the pipe. The pipe is threaded through the bottom hole in the barrel, an additional gasket is located on the reverse side, after which the finished structure is securely fixed with a nut. Next, an adapter is installed on the HDPE-type ventilation pipe.
• Installing the barrel upside down.
• Drain pipe connection through the side hole to a depth of 20 cm.
• Backfilling of the pit - up to half with rubble, then - with soil.

A tank with a drain is provided for non-clay and non-rocky soils.

Installation of waste septic tanks

With intensive use, the sewer system needs periodic cleaning. The most effective cleaning method is septic tanks, which do not require the use of sewage equipment.

The septic tank provides for the sequential purification of wastewater in various ways. First, water is purified from pollution, then disinfection occurs, at the final stage, water is discharged into the ground or used for irrigation.

Instructions for arranging a simple septic tank for 2 chambers for private needs:

1. a pit is dug up to a depth of 3 meters.
2. Filtering layers of sand (height up to 15 cm), crushed stone (10 cm) are laid on the bottom, carefully rammed.
3. Concrete rings are immersed on the sand-gravel layer to stiffen the future structure.
4. The walls of the well are reinforced with brickwork.
5. Next to the main well, a pit is dug for a well of smaller depth and diameter, which is equipped in a similar way.
6. The bottom of the first well and the gaps between the rings are filled with concrete to ensure complete tightness of the structure.
7. Drain holes are made in the upper part and the rings of both wells are connected using pipes. At the same time, it is important to observe a slight slope of 2.1 cm per meter towards a deep well. The joints are covered with a cement mixture.
8. A sewer pipe is being connected with a drain from the bath to a smaller well.
9. From above, the wells are closed with reinforced concrete slabs or hatches, in which small holes are made for installing ventilation pipes.

The first well is intended for rough water purification, the second - for the elimination of organic waste with the help of earthen bacteria.

If funds are available, ready-made septic systems available for sale can be used. The process of installing such equipment consists in digging a pit and supplying a sewer pipe.

This is the most expensive option for organizing a drainage system for private baths. It can work in automatic mode, while the cleaning quality reaches 97%. The removal of purified water from the septic tank in the finished system is carried out using a drainage type pump. Such water can be used for irrigation of a personal plot and technical needs.

A high-quality drain for a modern bath is a rather important and responsible process that requires technical training, financial investments and free time.

The device for draining water in a bath is one of the most important processes, without the proper organization of which a comfortable and long-term operation of the structure under construction is impossible. Therefore, the implementation of this type of work is given a significant amount of time and money. The entire system for draining waste and used water in the bath consists of two parts:

• performing a drain inside the bath, which consists in a special floor design;
• subsequent drainage of wastewater outside the bathhouse through any of the sewerage options (drain well or pit, etc.).

Drainage device in the bath floor

As a rule, the drainage of wastewater in the bath is provided directly in the floor structure, and is carried out immediately during its construction. This is the easiest and most effective way to organize the draining of water in the bath.

In most cases, the three most common design options for draining water in a bath with different floors are used:

• flowing;
• non-leaking;
• concrete.

Draining water in a bath in a leaky floor

To make a drain of water in a bath in a leaking floor is a fairly simple structural and technological task. But for all its simplicity, the design under consideration has a significant drawback - its operation is possible only in the warm season. Given the low cost and ease of the device for owners of baths in summer cottages, using them only in the season, it is quite a common and convenient solution.

• a hole is dug to a depth of about 60-70 cm, approximately in the center of the pit, dug to make the foundation of the bath;
• then, from the pit towards the sewer well or where the drain pit is planned, a trench is dug into which the pipe is laid with a minimum slope of 5-6 degrees;
• then it is necessary to fill in the foundations of the bath, then along the edges of the underground it is necessary to excavate the soil and pour the screed. Its purpose is to direct the water flowing from the bath floor, first into a pit, and from there through a pipe into a sewer or drain well or pit;
• make the floors of the bath from wooden boards, which are laid on pre-mounted beams.

Do not forget about the mandatory processing of all used wooden structures under the floors. It consists in antiseptic absolutely all and waterproofing of hidden wooden surfaces.

Beams, logs and boards used for bath floors should preferably be made of hardwood, this will increase their service life. The bath floor boards are laid with a gap of at least 5 mm, are not nailed, but are fastened along the edges, which makes it possible to periodically remove them for drying.

Advantages of draining water in a leaking bath floor:

• low cost of materials used;
• simplicity of design and technology of the device, which allows you to perform the whole range of work with your own hands;
• simplicity and simplicity of repair work;
• a sufficiently high level of comfort provided by the use of wood, and the feeling of a "warm" floor.

The disadvantages of this design, in addition to the complexity of use in cold weather, include a rather short service life. This is partly offset by the ease and low cost of repairs. In addition, the installed wooden pallet, taking on some of the water, will also slightly increase the service life.

Draining with non-leaking floor

The considered option is to drain the water in the bath - the work is somewhat more complicated than the previous one. However, it is devoid of the disadvantages described above, can be easily used all year round, and is more reliable.

Work sequence:

The considered design of the water drain in the bath is technologically more complex, more expensive financially, but it is also much more reliable and has a longer service life without the need for repair.

Drainage when laying a concrete floor

Concrete floors in the bath have one important disadvantage, compared to any wooden option - they are cold. But, despite this circumstance, when building a bath in modern conditions, it is relatively often used. The reason is that they are durable and easy to use, tiles can be used over them, and modern ceramic tiles are one of the most durable and reliable materials. In addition, the tile has an attractive appearance, so that various design solutions are possible. In addition, a wooden pallet is often laid on top of concrete or tiles, reducing the problem of a "cold" bath floor.

This drain design is carried out when the foundation work has already been completed, before the start of the flooring work.

Work sequence:

• make a hole in the insulation necessary to install a ladder to drain water;
• from the lower mark of the drain, install a chute attached to the side of the ladder so that the slope is at least 5 degrees;
• connect the ladder with a pipe to the existing drainage system (sewer or drain well, pit, drainage system);
• when performing a finishing floor, regardless of whether tiles are used, seal all joints and install the grate on the ladder.

With this design, the drain is installed either in the center of the steam room, or in one of the corners near one of the walls. The second option is much simpler, so it is much more common. After completing the above work, the following scheme is formed:

• used drains fall into the drain;
• from there, through the gutter, they follow into the ladder;
• from the ladder they move along the pipe to the sewer system provided and operating on the site.

Aftertreatment Systems

There are several of the most common and frequently used drainage systems:

• using the principle of natural filtration;
• drain hole;
• construction of a drain well;
• using a pit directly into the soil under the bath;
• common sewer for the entire site.

natural filtration

Relatively complex system that can be used with a relatively large volume of wastewater, except when it contains solid particles. The system consists of a container and an extensive system of sewer pipes that extend from it and are located over the area of ​​​​the site.

The tank contains a septic tank, which partially processes particles polluting the water. The volume of the container must exceed the volume of drains at least three times. With a certain frequency, the septic tank in the tank changes, and the sewage machine pumps out the sediment that accumulates in it.

drain hole

A fairly simple design, can be used when groundwater is deep enough. The volume of capacity that the drain pit needs depends on the number of drains. For example, if the bathhouse is operated by three people, a sufficient volume of the drain pit is 75 liters. The pit is located 2-3 meters from the building. In most cases, the edges are simply reinforced with ordinary ceramic bricks or stone, after which filter material is placed there. It is usually arranged from two layers: in the lower one - fragments and crumbs of brick, expanded clay, crushed stone, and in the upper one - construction sand.

Quite often, instead of fixing the walls with bricks, they use the digging in of a plastic or metal barrel, from which the bottom is first knocked out, and numerous holes are made in the walls.

Drain well

No less simple and affordable for self-manufacturing design. It can be used when groundwater is close to the surface and a drain hole is not possible. The drain well consists of a sealed container, to which a pipe is connected for the flow of effluents. Periodically, the liquid should be pumped out by a sewage machine. Usually arranged at a distance of no more than 5 meters from the building.

Pit (soil under the building)

Quite often used design, which is popular due to the simplicity and reliability of the design. The pit is made directly under the floor of the steam room. It is filled with some kind of filtration material, which is usually expanded clay, crushed stone, sand, or a mixture thereof. In fact, this system also uses the principle based on the natural filtration of wastewater. Its use is possible when their volume is insignificant or the bath is used infrequently.

sewerage system

If a single sewerage system is completed and operates on the site, then wastewater is discharged directly into it. For normal operation, it is enough to observe the difference in level marks.

Conclusion

Properly and correctly executed water drainage system will help to increase the service life of the bath and the level of benefit and comfort from visiting it.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. Discharging contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

• A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and cost-effective, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

• A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used a bulk layer of filter building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often holes are also made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

• A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves to collect, primary filter and treat waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, homeowners prefer to install a prefabricated prefabricated system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage-type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

• First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is brought into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

• Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is the best fit for collecting periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bath to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drain sewers for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

• Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

• If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

• The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

• If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

• It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to foresee the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, a layer 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes of the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows must be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel being installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material falls asleep around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed over the drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even trimmings of corrugated board left after roofing work.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if some creative master will share his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

Any bath is a place where you can take a break from daily worries, relax and take a steam bath, so a large amount of water always accumulates in such a room. To keep the bath in working condition for a long time, the problem with the removal of this water must be solved. In this article we will describe how to make a drain in the bath with our own hands, and also give the main types of such structures.

It is necessary to make a decision about the type of drain at the design stage of the bath. Some prefer not to complicate their lives and rely on the outflow of water into a pit under the bath floor.

However, the consequences of such a decision may be as follows:

• mold begins to grow under the floor;
• an unpleasant musty smell appears;
• the structure of the bath can shrink due to the destruction of the top layer of soil.

However, we note that the location of the sewage pit right under the floor of the bath is sometimes impossible due to the composition of the soil, for example, with clay inclusions. Such soil does not absorb water well, therefore, all the troubles described will appear much earlier. In order to prevent unpleasant consequences, it is best to organize a full outflow of water from the bath.

The do-it-yourself drain device in the bath can be organized in two ways:

• construction of a special septic tank on the site;
• tie-in to the central sewer system.

Types of floors in the baths

If you decide to do the drain in the bath with your own hands, then the first thing to consider is the type of floors, since they bear the brunt of high temperature and humidity, no matter how well the drain is made. Therefore, the process of arranging the floors must be treated with increased attention and scrupulousness.

There are two types of floors - concrete and wood, each of which is applicable to a particular type of bath. If your bath is a massive capital structure with a rest room, dressing rooms, a shower room or a pool and a steam room, then it is best to stay on concrete floors equipped with a waterproofing layer. In addition, this option is relevant if the bath is planned to be used all year round.

But in the case of wooden log cabins, which are used mainly only in the summer, wood floors are quite allowed, as a more profitable and inexpensive construction option with a small amount of work.

However, do not forget that the tree, despite all efforts to protect it, treatment with antiseptics and other materials, will eventually become unusable and the flooring will have to be replaced.

Concrete floors

The design of the concrete floor assumes the presence of such layers:

• compacted layer of rubble;
• sand-cement mortar;
• a layer of vapor barrier material;
• insulating layer of expanded polystyrene;
• cellophane film for waterproofing;
• another layer of sand cement;
• rebar mesh covered with concrete screed.

On top of the screed, you can tile the floor tiles, or use wooden ladders.

Wooden floors

Wood floors can be made in two versions - leaking and non-leaking type. In the first case, a concrete screed is located under the boardwalk, which is poured with a slope towards the water drain hole. This type of floor dries for a very long time, so it often deteriorates very quickly.

At the same time, the boardwalk itself is laid out on the logs, without nailing and leaving gaps of 0.5 cm. Through the cracks, water will freely flow under the floor, and if necessary, all boards can be removed and dried in the fresh air.

Organization of the outflow of water from the bath

First of all, in order to understand how to properly drain the bath, you need to take into account a number of such factors:

• the composition of the soil at the site of the construction of the bath;
• the level of occurrence of groundwater on the site;
• the size of the room and the expected number of users of the bath, the frequency of its operation, on which the volume of the septic tank and the throughput of the drain hole depend. If a bathhouse is being built on the water, then, of course, the requirements for the construction are completely different.

Based on these parameters, when designing a bath, a decision should be made on the design of the drain, as well as its dimensions, materials for its manufacture and the method of fixing it in the ground.

Well with a filter at the bottom

The design of the drain pit with a filter bottom is primarily used to clean wastewater from dirt and chemicals, as well as to trap bacteria. Subsequent water filtration is carried out directly by the soil layer. But at the bottom of the well, gravel, crushed brick or sand are used as a filter.

To ensure the outflow of water from a bath designed for 3-4 people, a well with a diameter of 1.5 m and a depth of 2 m is sufficient. It can be either rectangular or round in shape - the latter option is preferable due to the uniform distribution of pressure on all walls. The design of the cylindrical shape will need to be corrected much less often.

Since it is necessary to make a drain in the bathhouse in the country house without damaging the building itself, it is advisable to retreat from it at a distance of about 3-5 meters. Such a gap will ensure, first of all, the safety of the foundation of the bath from washing away, and also prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from their well into the bath. But if you place the drain pit further, you will inevitably have to purchase additional pipes for water drainage. In addition, it is difficult to ensure the correct angle of inclination over a long distance.

If the soil in your area is dense enough, then it is enough just to dig a hole for draining and lay filter materials - sand, crushed stone and broken bricks - on the bottom. Additional reinforcement of the walls is not required.

However, most often the boundaries of the well still need to be strengthened. Good enough material for this are well rings, brickwork, plastic barrels or metal tanks. Alternatively, the drain is made from car tires. So that the upper edge of the well can be closed with a lid and sprinkled, it is deepened 30-40 cm from the soil surface.

According to the drain scheme in the bath, a trench can be dug from it to the pit, through which water will arbitrarily fall into the well by gravity. However, it is best to equip the drain with pipes made of asbestos, metal, plastic or ceramic, with a diameter of 50-100 mm. In this case, a trench is also necessary, but its depth will depend on the depth of soil freezing, but not less than 50 cm. Pipes are laid at a slope of 20 mm for each meter of distance.

At the design stage, the future design of the drain and the features of the organization of the floor are thought out in detail. Economy version of the drain in the bath in the country - the implementation of the floor with a slope towards the drain hole. With this design, wastewater enters the pipes and is discharged directly into the drain pit.

Note that arranging, according to the step-by-step guide, the drain in the bath with your own hands is possible only in cases where the groundwater runs deep enough. Otherwise, the drain pit will be filled not so much with sewage as with groundwater, that is, it will lose its functional affiliation.

An alternative to a drain pit is to use a sealed septic tank, such as plastic. Such a device will be especially relevant in cases where a toilet is equipped in the bath, that is, the nature of the drains will require more thorough cleaning.

Another type of drain from the bath involves the presence of a filtration well and the subsequent withdrawal of effluents into a drainage pit.

Outflow of water from the bath to the sewer system

If there is a passing central sewer at the location of the bath, then the best solution would be to bring the outflow of water directly into it. However, all plumbing work and the organization of the drain in the bath must be done before laying the finishing floor covering.

Before crashing into the central sewer system, you must obtain special permission from the company servicing it.

You will need to obtain a number of such documents:

• a contract concluded with a design bureau authorized to carry out installation and earthworks, which is confirmed by certificates;
• consent signed by neighbors to carry out any work on the site.

In order to always be able to access the connection point and make repairs, it is necessary to provide a manhole. It is the main condition for obtaining permission to insert into the sewer system.

The air in the steam room will always remain fresh and fragrant, if you follow a number of useful tips when installing the drain:

• If it is planned to drain water into the sewer from several points of the bath, then each drain hole must be equipped with a water seal, in particular, a siphon of any design. This device prevents unpleasant odors from entering the room by means of a water plug inside it.
• Sewer ventilation, carried out from a 5 cm pipe brought to the roof of the bath, serves the same purpose.

Thus, following the instructions, you will be able to drain the bath yourself to ensure long-term and hygienic use of the bath.

According to scientists, water is one of the most active natural solvents. Remember the expression - "water wears away a stone"? Therefore, the removal of water, both from the outer perimeter of the bath structure, and from the internal space, is a necessary and important task. Today, we will equip the drain in the bath, according to all the rules of building craftsmanship.

Drainage of water in the bath can be solved in several ways, differing from each other in the complexity of implementation and, to be honest, the quality of wastewater disposal.

Let's go from simple to complex. The most accessible, and perhaps the most primitive way, is to drain the water from the bath by arranging pouring floors. Floors of this type are wooden flooring laid on logs with gaps between adjacent elements. That is, as a result, we get a floor with slots through which water passes freely, without stopping, into a pit, from which it is either drained or immediately collected and absorbed into the soil.

The drain from the bath, solved in a similar way, was embodied a very long time ago, at the dawn of the birth of the bath culture, when the bath itself was heated nowhere easier - and the used water was also discharged very simply - underground. Why is this method attractive? First of all, elementary simplicity. Thus, they solve the question of how to make a drain in the bath with their own hands, in cases where:

• , small and made using extremely inexpensive and affordable materials. Equipping a full-fledged sewerage system in it is expensive and troublesome. Yes, and the owner himself professes a very ascetic approach to the arrangement of bathing life;
• Such a bath is used rarely and only in the warm season. Such a purely dacha option for periodic use, - according to the mood, by a small company, with a small amount of drains;
• The layout and features of the site do not allow for a full range of earthworks to equip a full-fledged sewer;
• Finally, the soil structure has excellent drainage capacity. All water is absorbed in the pit quickly and completely.

Such a simple drain for a bath, of course, impresses with quick implementation and low financial costs. This design of sewerage and small volumes of earthworks, which have always been accompanied by objective difficulties, are very attractive. But, this arrangement has its downsides. Namely:

• Possibility of seasonal use only. In the cold season, pouring floors are a source of cold air and reduce the overall thermal performance of the bath room. Cold floors are one of the biggest signs of discomfort in a modern bath;
• With large volumes of wastewater and occurrence in the soil of the pit of clay and shale, their stagnation may occur. And this, in turn, can provoke the reproduction of insects, in particular mosquitoes and flies, the spread of an unpleasant odor, the constant dampening of the bearing logs, and reduce the overall sanitary well-being of the bathhouse;
• Finally, on light sandy soils and sandy loams, the equipment of a water collector under the base of the structure can lead to soil erosion and exposure of the foundation, its erosion and, as a result, a decrease in its bearing capacity.

By the way! The removal of water in the bath through pouring floors became widespread in black baths also because baths of this type burned out faster than their design became unusable from the negative effects of moisture.

Non-spill floors, on the basis of which water is drained from the bath, allow you to avoid the disadvantages and inconveniences that pour-type structures have. Their essence is as follows. The entire floor surface is a waterproof plane, which is oriented in a certain direction by giving it a slight slope. In its lowest part, a water collector is equipped with a gutter hidden under the floor surface, which drains either into a localized septic tank or into a centralized sewer.

Let's take a closer look at this point.

Pit against the sewer

The drain device in the bath may provide for the disposal of wastewater into a drain pit or a centralized sewer. What is good about the first option, and how is it inferior to the second:

1. Drainage in the bath in an individual septic tank will allow you not to depend on the bureaucratic machine of Gorvodokanal and municipal authorities. No approvals of technical documentation, permits, projects are needed. We rely only on ourselves, our own knowledge and strength. In most cases, this is the key and most decisive argument.
2. There are no periodic monthly payments for wastewater.
3. There is no need to worry about the periodic occurrence of congestion and other unpleasant consequences of using the domestic sewer network. Especially brightly negative consequences are shown in the period of heavy precipitation. The situation is aggravated by the insufficient section of the designed highways with a steady increase in the number of subscribers. The quality of the technical implementation of communications with observance of mandatory slopes, cleanliness of interfaces, corners is far from the strongest side of our public utilities.
4. In most cases, the amount of work and the level of costs for tie-in to a centralized network exceeds that for arranging your own localized septic tank.

Important! The elimination of accidents and malfunctions of the sewer network is entrusted to the repair units of the city water canal, and the quality of the work, their efficiency has long been "legendary".

At the same time, a drain pit for a bath can be fraught with inconvenience in use, and even certain threats:

• When equipping a drain for a bath with your own hands, special attention should be paid to the structure of the soil at the place where the septic tank is laid. In certain cases, the manifestation of the so-called "saturation" of the underlying soils with moisture is possible, as a result of which they acquire the properties of quicksand, with a sharp loss of their bearing capacity;
• The pit must be located at a distance of at least 4500 mm from the foundation line of the bath. Some practicing experts profess the following rule: the edge of the drain pit should be located from the foundation line of the bath at a distance not less than the full height of the building, from the base of the base to its ridge;
• A drain pit can have a negative impact on natural sources of water supply, such as wells, wells, springs. We have already talked about the rules for placing infrastructure within the site;
• A well-equipped pit with a large internal volume is a serious structure that requires a large amount of earthwork and subsequent disposal of the excavated soil;
• An insufficiently insulated pit can serve as a source of an unpleasant odor, the subject of a concentration of problems of a purely sanitary nature, for example, in a number of regions - a breeding ground for mosquitoes;
• If the soil at the place where the pit is laid is not endowed with sufficient drainage capacity, its volume is small, and the drainage in the bath is plentiful, you must be prepared for the fact that the cost of the services of a sewage barrel will become a permanent line of expenses, which in some cases will exceed payments to the account of the city water utility for sewer bills.

By the way! Let's be frank. In most rural and suburban areas, residents know only by hearsay about a centralized sewer network, and a drain pit remains the only option for implementing such a project as diverting water from a bath with their own hands.

Somewhat apart is the performance of work in such a context as a drain in a bathhouse on screw piles. What is all the salt in here? Screw piles directly play the role of a bearing unit that perceives and evenly distributes the static load of the structure. There is no extended line of contact with the ground; to a lesser extent, such a structure is also subject to erosion, as is the case with a strip foundation. Therefore, in some cases, a cesspool is located directly under the bath. The only condition is that it is necessary to provide an opportunity for convenient access to the service hatch from the side of the vacuum trucks. Vacuum drum hose is not flexible and movable enough to be used in very tight spaces.

If we dwell a little more on the issues of arranging a septic tank, then it is probably necessary to note another simple and effective design, such as a drain pit made of bath tires. In rural areas, and even more so in a summer cottage, when it is difficult to equip a full-fledged pit, used tires from trucks can be used as the main elements that form the circumference of the pit. A large number of sizes will allow you to arrange a pit of the most diverse section, and if luck smiles and you manage to get tires from agricultural machinery, then with a small budget you can build a pit of a decent cubic capacity that can serve a bathhouse used not from time to time, but constantly. The most widespread front and rear tires from tractors T-150K, K - 700, K-701, rear tires from YuMZ - 6, MTZ - 80/82.

A word from Experienced! When mounting tires in a pit set, it is worth using a simple light-duty hand winch on a simple cross member. Firstly, this is correct from the point of view of safety, on the other hand, it will allow laying with high accuracy. For some tire sizes, hand-laying is a labor-intensive feat. To clarify the situation, just look at the dimensions and weight of the tire from the same K-701 Kirovets.

Practical recommendations for arranging a drainage system in a bath

In this section, we will get acquainted with the practical side of the issue, how to properly drain the bath.

At the design stage

The correct drain in the bath provides for the study of its design long before construction, even at the stage of design research. What to consider and what to pay attention to:

1. The total amount of water utilized, both at a time, during one bathing day, and in general - for a month or a calendar year.
2. Characteristics of soils, their drainage capacity, depth of groundwater. Very often there can be a tendency when in the spring the groundwater comes close to the surface, almost to a depth of 40 - 50 cm from the control line, and then, until late autumn, goes down and does not manifest itself until the next snowmelt period. and abundant rainfall.
3. The number of water collection points, the nature of the effluents. It is one thing to drain only water from the bath, albeit somewhat contaminated with detergents, and another thing is to drain waste from the kitchen block of the bath, which often hosts noisy companies accompanied by a plentiful feast. Be sure to take into account the presence of a bathroom in the bath. Its presence changes the structure of effluents. Here it is necessary to understand whether for oneself you need a drain in the steam room. It is this position that will determine the further progress of work in the most important room of the future bath.
4. The type of foundation used, the nature of the heat and waterproofing, the types of finishing work in the arrangement of the bath at the finishing operations.
5. Finally, we assess the risks of operating the bath in the cold season. How severe are the frosts, what is their duration, at what depth is the point of guaranteed freezing of the soil.

In the vast majority of cases, a soberly carried out design calculation will eliminate problems, both at the stage when we only drain the water from the bath with our own hands, and during the further operation of the bath facility.

Arrangement of the construction site and laying the foundation

What we do here:

• We clean the site from unnecessary elements, debris, vegetation. We evaluate the relief;
• If necessary, we make a plan on the plane;
• We make markings and make a linear binding of future objects to the terrain;
• We calculate the rational location of septic tanks, highways, coordination of water supply and sewer communications. The distance of sewer units from water supply facilities, site boundaries, roads, within the requirements of SNiP;
• When the foundation is erected, communication and technological channels are immediately laid. This will save you from the unpleasant and hard work of punching them in an already finished and formed concrete mass. In the foundation for a bath with a drain, segments of strong metal pipes are simply laid at the necessary points, which can later be used as safety sleeves.

If at this stage underground communications are being equipped, then we do not forget about the arrangement of damper cushions in trenches. For a plastic pipe with a diameter of 152 mm, passing at a depth of 1200 mm in clay or loamy soil, the thickness of the sand cushion should be about 180 mm. This will allow automobile and construction equipment with a total mass of 18-22 tons to pass through the trench without consequences. More heavy special equipment is hardly used in the construction of baths at construction sites.

Stage of construction of the main load-bearing structures

At this time, the main attention should be paid to the question of how the bath, drain correspond to each other. Avoid crossing drain pipes and gutters with permanent elements such as floor joists. At the same time, the slope angle of the gutter is set, turns, junctions, and overflows are drawn up.

If the optimal slope angle cannot be maintained without contact with one or another obstacle, then it is better to go in the direction of increasing the fall, rather than reduce it and provoke the risk of congestion, especially if the bathhouse is equipped with a bathroom and a kitchen unit. Also at this stage, points of emergency discharge of the coolant from the heating and hot water supply system into the sewer network are drawn up.

Stage of finishing works

This is already a kind of finish line in resolving the issue of how to make a drain from the bath. Regarding the ways of arranging the floor in the bath, we have already told. Let us designate the essential nuances relating directly to water disposal. It is on this production segment that the water collectors are formed, and the floor planes receive the necessary slope. Moreover, the slope of the floor can be:

• Concentric, that is, the water collector is in the middle and all sides of the floor in the projection from it receive the necessary slope equally. It is colloquially referred to as an "envelope";
• One-sided, when the water collector has a near-wall orientation and the floor is directed towards it with its entire plane. Although, in reality, such a water intake system still has two slopes that are mutually directed relative to each other.

Which method to use depends rather on the set of specific conditions, however, it is worth noting that the concentric one allows you to collect water faster and better, and the one-sided one is more hidden from the eyes and is relatively easy to implement in practice. Both the first and second methods combine the general requirement of SNiP - the slope of the floor should vary within 9 - 11 mm per linear meter of its plane.

As for the slope of the pipe, when we equip the drain from the bath with our own hands. The same SNiP provides that the fall of the pipe relative to the horizontal must be at least 30 mm per 1 meter of its length. This factor should ensure the flow velocity in the pipe at the level of 0.7 m/s or more. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm or less, the slope level can be slightly increased - up to 35 mm per linear meter of pipe.

Floor tiling is the most common type of flooring. Therefore, try to keep the slope of the plane relative to the horizontal within 2%. On the one hand, this value is sufficient for the active rolling of water from its surface, on the other hand, such a slope will not contribute to the fact that visitors will actively roll off its surface.

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to dwell on the most fundamental and key points in solving the problem of how to drain in a bath. For the convenience of visual perception of information in the light of the issue - do-it-yourself draining in the bath, a step-by-step guide, we have posted a number of video materials. The problem of wastewater disposal must be addressed comprehensively and systematically, otherwise, sewerage can turn into a source of constant problems, ranging from congestion to a breeding ground for mosquitoes. It is better to work as a builder once, than to work as a plumber all the time.