How to plant tomatoes on the balcony. Step by step guide on how to grow tomatoes on a balcony

Note that this is only a small part of the varieties that exist. These varieties and many others are bred by breeders specifically for growing in balcony conditions. Let's take a closer look at one of the popular varieties. For example, Balcony miracle - tomatoes that grow well and bear fruit on balconies. Indoor tomatoes Balcony miracle - abundant fruiting and exquisite taste

Characteristics of the tomato variety Balcony miracle

• This type of tomato belongs to the determinant varieties of tomatoes, that is, the growth height of the plant is limited (no more than 50 centimeters). This is an ultra-early crop. It is intended for growing on loggias, balconies, verandas. However, it is also suitable for growing in open ground.

Please note: This tomato variety is suitable for both salads and pickling. In addition, the above-ground system is particularly decorative, and the fruits are of wondrous beauty.

• Each bush can please you with a crop of 2 kg of tomatoes. This variety does not require a garter. The term until full ripening is on average 85-90 days; It has not large fruits, their weight is about 65 grams, the shape is round, the color is bright red .

Please note: Balcony miracle tomatoes - growing this variety is great at home. Especially considering the main advantage - the possibility of harvesting early. Balcony tomatoes in the ripening stage Please note: Tomatoes can be grown both on a sunny balcony and on a shaded one. The main point is the good lighting of the balcony. It is desirable that the sun appears on the balcony for at least 3 hours.

Highlights in growing tomatoes for balconies or loggias

Sowing seeds

• Tomato seeds are sown in February - March. The soil mixture is poured into cups and watered some time before the seeds are planted on the balcony with warm water. It is not necessary to soak the seeds, they can be sown dry. Place 2 grains in plastic or paper cups. The seed laying depth is about 1 - 1.5 centimeters. After the seedlings have appeared, the stronger plant is left, while the other is pinched, but not removed.

soil for tomatoes

For growing seedlings of future tomatoes, there are several options for the soil mixture, for example, you can take:

• Ready-made substrate called "Living Land"; Soil mixture "Tomatoes"; One part of peat + soddy land + manure humus.

Seedling care

Watering

Seedlings are not watered often: about once a week, or even once every 10 days. In this case, the water should not be cold (room temperature) and settled.

Air temperature

In the room where seedlings are grown, the air temperature should not exceed: during the day - 20-22 degrees, and at night - not lower than 16 degrees. Tip: At elevated air temperatures, you should ventilate the room, for example, by opening a window. cool air did not get on the seedlings. The grown seedlings of future tomatoes

top dressing

Before planting seedlings in a permanent place, it is advisable to feed 3 times. Fertilizers can be purchased at any specialized store. Dosages can be found on the packaging.

• The first top dressing is carried out after the appearance of sprouts on the 12th day. The second top dressing is carried out 10 days later relative to the first. The third top dressing is carried out a week before planting seedlings in a permanent place.

Important: If you want to get perfect seedlings, in other words, beautiful and even, you should turn the cups with seedlings every few days to turn the other side to the light.

Planting seedlings

It is best to plant each seedling in a separate pot, but you can also use long balcony boxes for plants and flowers for this purpose. Watered seedlings in advance are removed from the cups and transplanted into the middle of the pot.

Caring for tomatoes on the balcony

• Tomatoes, including balcony tomatoes, are sun-loving and light-loving plants. They should be placed in the sun. It is necessary to prevent waterlogging of the soil or drying out. Watering tomatoes is carried out in dry weather every other day, only under the root.

Tip: In order to speed up the process of development and formation of fruits, you can perform the following action, it is called “tearing the roots.” You need to take the plant by the lower part of the stem and gently pull it up. How to try to pull it off the ground, so the small roots break off. After that, water the plant and spud the ground around it. Small-fruited tomatoes - harvesting Please note: For the entire period of growth and ripening, it would be nice to feed the tomatoes. pour a bush, for example, a few tablespoons of wood ash.

Conclusion

Vegetables in the garden on the balcony - useful and beautiful gardening. This will bring special joy to true connoisseurs of plants. Growing tomatoes on a balcony is easier than other vegetable crops. They do not require close care, so this task is easily feasible.

Feel free to create original compositions, and your balcony will be a unique island of nature.

Pinching ( pinching, pinching, pinching) is the removal of the top of a young shoot above the leaf (growth point). Pinching can be done with your fingers, but it is still better to use scissors. When you remove the growth point, the plant will immediately begin to form new ones, sometimes one, but usually two or more.

Why do a pinch?

The main goal of this very important manipulation is to increase and improve the yield. And it must be done in a timely and correct manner. The tops of the shoot must be pinched above the leaf that was formed after the last inflorescence of those needed to ripen the crop matured. Each plant has its own growing season, but there is one rule: topping should be done no later than three weeks from the planned date of the last mass harvest fruits.

How to pinch cucumbers

The need for pinching cucumbers is caused by the specific feature of laying predominantly male flowers on the main stem of the plant (they are often called empty flowers). Female flowers appear mainly on lateral shoots, and they can only be achieved through pinching the main stem. In addition, pinching significantly increases the yield.

Today, varieties have already been bred, the main stem of which is strewn with female flowers. But then there is a problem with men. And you can also provoke their appearance by pinching the head stem. If, for example, the plant is hybrid or varietal, then you need to remove the tops above the sixth leaf, and only 3 shoots will need to be left, but the rest must be cut off. On a regular variety, you need 1 stem, and remove weak shoots completely. Modern varieties of cucumbers with short lateral shoots do not need to be pinched. Note: Pinching a melon is carried out in the same way as for cucumbers. See also: Growing cucumbers without a greenhouse and chemicals

Pinching tomatoes (tomatoes)

Pinching tall tomatoes is best done 40 days before the date of the expected harvest, when all the main brushes are formed. You need to leave 2 leaves above the last inflorescence. So without loss, all the fruits that have begun by this time will be formed.

Otherwise, the plant will stretch, set new fruits, and those formed earlier will ripen later, 6 years less and not so tasty. Similarly, pinch eggplant and pepper.

How to pinch zucchini

In zucchini (like zucchini), the top is broken off over 4-5 leaves. The main stem of the climbing squash is removed at the beginning of budding, when it reaches a length of more than 1 meter (1.3 on average), 3 lateral shoots 65-70 centimeters long with 1 meter of fruit on each are left. The pinching procedure is very similar for pumpkins.

But for bush and self-pollinated varieties, pinching is not necessary. But, when fruiting begins, it is better to remove 1-3 leaves in the middle of the bush: this prevents the development of rot.

How to pinch watermelons

When 2-3 fruits are tied and reach 5-7 centimeters in diameter, you can begin to pinch the tops of the side shoots. Do this as carefully as possible - the watermelon does not tolerate turning the whip over at all, and even more so trampling it with your feet. Related link: Growing melons , watermelons, eggplant and some other vegetables in Central Russia

Gourd Pinching

The number of fruits per lash should not exceed 3 pieces, even better 2x, this allows you to significantly speed up their ripening and also improve the quality of the fruits (and, most importantly, their keeping quality). When they finally tied up and began to fill up, you can pinch the main stem and long side shoots (they are infertile). Or you can orient all the shoots in one direction, leaving only 1 fruit each.

In this case, it is better to sprinkle the internodes of the plant with humus. Removing the tops of potato shoots before budding (tip 2-3 cm) increases tuberization. The resulting fruits, when planted next year, will give a “rejuvenated” and healthier crop. If the male shoots are not removed by 80% (they do not bloom), the cucumbers will be bitter. But you should not cut off - they give the fruits nutrients.

About pinching in detail:

Cucumber

Not every cultivar group needs to edit a growing plant. It is practically not necessary to form parthenocarpic varieties of the female type of flowering (for example, Graceful), but the old mid- and late-ripening varieties, especially in greenhouses, have to be formed:

• Usually, one stem is left on the plant, which is pinched over the eighth leaf.
• After that, after 4-5 days, the plant forms lateral shoots, of which no more than five are left and again pinched, above the fifth leaf, and the main lash is tied up.

This is simple, but one of the most effective and proven methods.

pinching eggplant

Subtleties begin even in the seedling period: Growing plants should not close with leaves. When the fifth leaf develops completely, pinch the growth point, the “blue ones” will begin to branch. Leave the three strongest shoots of the second order. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, pinch them after 2-3 ovaries appear on them. Remove all lower leaves up to the first fork, and remove the axillary stepchild shoots. light-requiring of all our vegetables, too many leaves and too close placement of adult plants are not at all useful for him. As they ripen, the fruits become so heavy that they can fill up the entire bush: they need props! They were wise with the earth and seeds, grew good seedlings.

Planted at the right time, in a good greenhouse and in the right land. We water, field, fertilize and rub our hands, watching how the tops bush. But no flowers, no ovaries, only greenery ... What is the mistake?

And the fact that many varieties of vegetables need to be formed. Most varieties, only with the correct system of pinching the shoots, a certain placement of plants on the ridge and on the support, will give the maximum yield. A kind of garden architecture!

There are some general rules, a kind of reference points: the fewer shoots, the faster the first fruit will ripen, but the total yield per plant is less and the fruiting period is shorter. Plus the weather. Both have to be taken into account and find a golden mean.

And every culture has its own principles of formation.

Sweet pepper - pinch

Rule one: sweet pepper - the client is fragile and requires delicate handling. Rule two: low-growing varieties do not pinch at all, they themselves do an excellent job with their figure. fuss with tall peppers (like Kakadu) in greenhouses:

• When such a client reaches a height of about 20 cm, pinch the top. and due to axillary shoots, a bush begins to form.
• No more than four shoots are left on the plant, they should be placed symmetrically in the "crown" of your pepper "tree". All other axillary shoots are plucked in infancy.
• No more than three ovaries are left on each skeletal shoot, and it is preferable to remove the fruits at the stage of technical ripeness.

Since the shoots are very fragile, under ripening fruits (especially large-fruited varieties), do not forget to substitute props in a timely manner (for example, forks from willow branches). pinching tomatoes Varieties come with limited and unlimited growth (determinant and indeterminate).

Many determinants do not require formation at all, without forming or almost without forming axillary shoots - stepchildren. And all the principles of "designing" a tomato bush are based on regulating the number of shoots and the number of inflorescences on them. This is especially true for indeterminate greenhouse varieties formed into one stem with five inflorescences:

• In the morning we break out all the stepchildren (at this time they break off well) until they reach a length of 5 cm, and remove all side shoots, and in the second half of summer and 2/3 of the leaves: the plants should be well blown, this will largely save them from fungal diseases, in particular from phytophthora.
• When all the flower brushes have formed ovaries the size of a pea, the bush must be pinched: there is nothing to drive the tops, bring up the children!
• If for one reason or another your planting is thickened, plants can be formed into two stems, pinching them over the third flower brush. To do this, you can leave one lower stepson. Subject to the complete and regular removal of all others!

Tomatoes have a curious feature: with a dense planting, they bear fruit better than with a sparse one! And the optimal distance between plants is usually indicated on the package with seeds of each variety. © Plushinsky, agronomist, St. Petersburg

Pinching tomatoes (tomatoes).

Pinching (pinching) is an operation carried out in order to accelerate the ripening of fruits. The essence of pinching is to remove part of the stem, as a result of which nutrients are redirected to ripening fruits.

Pinching, as a rule, is practiced in the cultivation of pumpkin crops (cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, etc.). This technique is also used in the cultivation of nightshade, including tomatoes.

Benefits of pinching tomatoes

As you know, varieties and hybrids of tomatoes are divided into 3 categories according to biological characteristics of development: superdeterminant, determinant and indeterminate. As for the first two types, pinching is rarely carried out on them for the reason that such plants are characterized by a limited period of development, and the crop on them ripens before the onset of cold weather.

Another thing is the indeterminate type of plants that do not have a pronounced dormant period (year-round vegetation). Indeterminate varieties will grow vegetative mass, bloom and set fruit as long as the ambient temperature allows.

Obviously, the ripening of fruits on such plants occurs unevenly, and most of them do not have time to ripen before the onset of frost. Pinching helps to avoid crop losses. Sometimes it is advisable to pinch on determinant varieties if the plants are overfed with nitrogen fertilizers (in this case, tomatoes form "fatty shoots" to the detriment of fruiting).

Pinching technique

Pinching tomatoes is not particularly difficult, however, there are some nuances that must be taken into account: 1. It is necessary to carry out the operation in dry weather, since with high ambient humidity the risk of plant infection with late blight increases (fungal spores germinate within 1 hour).

The risk of infection increases many times if the plantings of tomatoes are close to potato beds, from where the ripe spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind to the tomatoes. 2. The tool used for work (knife, scissors, etc.) must be disinfected before processing the next plant, since late blight spreads easily with intracellular juice.

For disinfection, you can use a saturated solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride or synthetic fungicides. 3. During the operation, a part of the stem is removed, above the last formed ovary, leaving 2-3 leaves above them. 4. A week after pinching the plants, it is recommended to feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which will speed up the process of fruit ripening.

Ways to increase the yield of tomatoes

1. Proper formation of the bush and timely pinching is the key to the future harvest. 2. When growing tall vine-like varieties, it is advisable to bend the lower stepsons and pin them to the ground.

After a week, adventitious roots form on the shoots, which will increase the area of ​​plant nutrition. 3. It is recommended to grow indeterminate varieties of tomatoes through seedlings (by sowing in individual containers or peat-humus cubes).

4. The author of the article repeatedly tested the method of picking directly into the ground (at the beginning of May). To protect against return frosts, it is necessary to use covering materials (polyethylene, spunbond, agrofibre). Such plants form a powerful root system and overtake in development tomatoes grown through seedlings.

Features of growing tomatoes on the windowsill

The key to the successful cultivation of tomatoes in pots, on the windowsill in the apartment is a high-quality earthen substrate, the presence of the sun (at least for 3-4 hours a day), self-pollinating seeds and additional lighting with fluorescent lamps (phytolamps) in winter. The first crop of tomatoes appears 3-4 months after germination. Over time, tomatoes will need a support, to which the brushes of the bush are gradually tied up. During flowering, the bush needs to be shaken a little (once a day) for better pollination (this applies to all hybrid crops ).The tomato on the windowsill is not stepchildren, then the bush will be lush and beautiful. It is recommended to harvest the crop as the fruits ripen.

At the same time, a large number of ripened fruits on the bush pull excess juices from the plant. The bush is depleted, the new ovary becomes smaller. Selection of seeds. Seeds for growing tomatoes on the windowsill must be self-pollinating hybrids.

Of self-pollinated hybrids, small-fruited varieties are preferred, since large fruits ripen longer and worse. For growing tomatoes on a windowsill, the height of the bush is important. The selected variety should be undersized (no one needs vine-bushes two meters high in the apartment). A high-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber and biohumus.

To do this, mix 1 part of biohumus with 2 parts of coconut fiber. Ordinary three to four liter flower pots are taken as containers for growing tomatoes on the windowsill. and then transplant them into large, permanent pots. The second method is more troublesome, but it makes it possible to choose and plant the most powerful and strong seedlings from grown seedlings in large pots. Seeds are well prepared for planting. They are dipped in a warm solution of potassium permanganate (not pink and not dark red) for 2-3 hours.

Then they take it out (if there are enough seeds, then they take out only those seeds that have sunk to the bottom during this time, and those that have surfaced are thrown away, since the germination of such seeds is very low), on a cotton pad (or a piece of cotton fabric) , let it drain. Plant the seeds in small cups, with a volume of 100 ml (when planting with a pick). The cups are filled with an earthen mixture, lightly tamping, while not filling up to the edges of 2 cm.

The seeds are laid out on top and covered with a substrate, crushing so that the height of the earthen layer above the seeds is 1-1.5 cm, watered. Lay out 4-5 seeds in each cup. 1-2 weeks after germination, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving 2 pieces of the most powerful and beautiful in each cup.

A week later, a second thinning is carried out, leaving one of the strongest. When planting immediately in large pots (with a capacity of 3-4 liters), without picking, pour the earthen mixture, lightly tamping, do not fall asleep to the edges of 4-5 cm. The seeds are also laid out (according to 4-5 pieces) and sprinkle with a layer of earth 1-1.5 cm.

The remaining depth is filled up in about a month. This procedure will replace the pick. Seedlings also break through in several stages, until one of 4-5 pieces remains - the most powerful. Approximately 3-4 weeks after germination, small seedlings are transplanted (dive) into large pots.

They take a seedling in a glass, turn it upside down (the top of the glass will be on the palm, and the seedling itself is passed between the fingers), gently pull the glass up. into the remaining empty space around the perimeter of the large pot. A seedling is sprinkled with soil from above to cotyledon leaves. When planting seeds immediately in large pots, the picking procedure is replaced by pouring an earthen substrate into a pot to a height of 2-3 cm. differently.

In the first month of life, seedlings should be watered regularly, but moderately. At this stage, it is important not to overwater the seedlings, as there will be a threat of various diseases (such as blackleg). In winter, they will not have to be watered often, since there is little sun and heat.

In winter, they follow the rule “it’s better not to top up than to overfill.” From the end of March, moisture consumption will increase, and the sun will do its job with warmth. In the summer, especially if by this time fruits have begun to appear on the bushes, it is important not to let the potted soil dry out.

Since the ovary and fruits on the bushes dramatically increase moisture consumption, in the hot summer they adhere to the rule “it is better to pour than not to add”. Lack of moisture will lead to shedding of the ovary. It is recommended to spray the bushes daily, especially on hot, sunny days, with plain water, it is better to do this in the evening. The support for an adult bush should be stable and strong. degrees around its axis.

Plants that receive light only from the side of the window tend to bend over towards the light. Therefore, so that your plants are not crooked, asymmetrical and ugly, do not forget to turn them. In order for the bush to last as long as possible, they must be fed.

Fruit-bearing crops deplete the soil very quickly. Without top dressing, the bush ages and quickly disappears. Therefore, once every 2-3 weeks, tomato bushes in pots on the windowsill must be fed (a teaspoon of agrolife in the top layer of the earth, or by watering Rostom - 1 cap per 2 liters of water). If desired, by pinching the top, a month after picking, they achieve more the splendor of the bush.

The bush will become more dense and compact in height. It should be borne in mind that with pinching, flowering and fruit ripening will be delayed by 1-2 weeks.

Propagation of tomatoes by cuttings

Tomato is a perennial plant. Therefore, if periodically (every 2 months) add fresh vermicompost (if the pot allows), or transplant into larger pots, then the bush will produce a crop for several years. In this case, every year, in the spring, they make a small pruning of the branches in order to rejuvenate the bush. The tomato takes root very well by cuttings. After a year or two, when the bush becomes old, ugly and bulky, cut off a cutting (twig) from it, put it in water and after 2-3 weeks, a young seedling with a normally developed root system is transplanted into a pot with a fresh earthen substrate. A new bush (obtained as a result of such cuttings) will begin to bloom in just a couple of weeks after planting it in a pot.

The absence of your own dacha or garden is not a reason to give up the dream of growing organically clean vegetables on your own. And the owners of balconies, glazed loggias or open terraces have nothing to worry about at all - in the summer, vegetables grow well and ripen in their homes among flower arrangements. And the tomato is one of the most popular crops among balcony "gardeners", because it grows well, sings quickly and pleases with abundant harvests for a long time.

Before filling all the free space with seedling pots, it is important to remember: the success of successfully growing tomatoes on a balcony in an urban environment depends on the right variety. After all, not every plant will agree to grow indoors in a small area. But do not despair - breeders have bred many varieties that develop well and bear fruit on balconies.

There are many varieties of tomatoes. When choosing, carefully read their characteristics.

If you are a happy owner of a large balcony space and can afford to place large containers with earth, then you can stop your choice on large-fruited tomato varieties: Bull's Heart, Carlson, De Barao. The owners of more modest living space will have to look for their own among dwarf varieties. You can sow, for example, Yellow Pearl, Cascade Red, Verlioka, Red Banana, Ruby, White Pour, Canada News, Oak or Little Florida. Small cherry tomatoes performed well in a balcony environment.

Other varieties intended for growing on balconies are also popular: Max, Balcony Miracle, Gina, Belkoni Red, George Bush, Japanese indoor tomato, Bonsai Micro, Siberian early.

General characteristics of balcony tomatoes

Although the taste of balcony tomatoes does not differ from their garden "relatives", there are still some differences between the two types. To a greater extent - regarding the appearance of plants.

Features of dwarf varieties:

1. Compact root system.
2. The fruits are small, regular shape.
3. Low plants (no more than half a meter tall).
4. Doesn't need tying.
5. The fruits ripen faster than in the garden.
6. High yield (about 2 kg).

We grow seedlings correctly

Properly grown seedlings - the key to a good harvest

The process of growing tomatoes begins with the germination of seeds. Do this from the beginning of February and continue until April. With early sowing, the first fruits will be already in April, spring seeds will please the harvest in September. Also, having decided to make it small on the balcony, it is important to take into account the level of lighting, since tomatoes are light-loving plants. That is, the southern balcony will serve as the best place for a tomato plantation. On poorly lit loggias, the lack of sunlight is compensated by artificial lighting (fluorescent lamps).

There are several ways to germinate tomato seeds: directly into the ground and with pre-soaking.

Method number 1

seed soaking

1. Cover the saucer with a piece of cloth, put the seeds on it, cover with a damp cloth on top.
2. Place the saucer in a plastic bag.
3. Put in a warm place (you can put a plate under the bottom of the plate on the battery).
4. Periodically moisten the cloth with seeds.
5. When white roots appear in the grains, plant them in the ground.
6. Water with warm water, but do not overmoisten.

Method number 2

1. Place the seeds for several days in the refrigerator - for hardening.
2. Carefully place the tomato seeds in cloth bags.
3. Pour hot water into a thermos.
4. Dip the seed bags in a thermos of water and leave overnight.
5. Plant the seeds in the ground (purchased or from the garden). Sow in furrows no deeper than 1 cm.
6. Water thoroughly and cover the seeds with soil.
7. Wrap the container with seeds in plastic bags, creating the effect of a greenhouse.
8. Before the seedlings germinate, air the pots with earth daily by removing the bag.

Method number 3

Dwarf varieties of tomatoes - ideal for growing on balconies

1. Fill a plastic 200-gram glass (preferably transparent) with earth and pour boiling water over it. Wait until the soil cools down.
2. Using a pencil, make a depression in the ground and place a few seeds (if already germinated, then one per cup).
3. Cover the containers with foil and put in a warm place.
4. After the appearance of sprouts (on the 3rd day), put the containers in a cool place (windowsill).
5. It is desirable to illuminate with artificial light, water only when the topsoil dries.

Growing seedlings

To grow tomato seedlings, you can use both a purchased mixture and soil from the garden, preferably from a garden bed where nightshade crops have not grown before. It is also easy to prepare the soil yourself by mixing equal parts peat, soddy soil and manure humus.

With the advent of seedling gatherings, wait until the plants get stronger and become stronger, then transplant into a larger container for a permanent "place of residence". Planting tomatoes is an important process, so we will pay attention to all stages.

Containers for seedlings can be made independently

First of all, prepare containers for the subsequent planting of nightshade crops on balconies. These can be conical buckets, large pots, wooden or plastic boxes. But it is worth considering: one plant will need about 3 liters of soil.

The next step is the preparation of the drainage layer. Since tomatoes do not tolerate excess water, drainage is indispensable. The easiest way is to cover the bottom of the pot with 2 centimeters of small pebbles or pieces of expanded clay. And only after that you can fill the container with soil or earthen mixture. The form should be filled no more than three-quarters.

When planting tomatoes, deepen the plants 2 cm lower than they grew in the previous form. Gently sprinkle with earth on all sides and pour plenty of warm water under the root. In the sun, put pots with tomatoes no earlier than a week later - wait until the plants take root.

Important: balcony tomatoes do not like an excess of moisture and a lack of fresh air, which means that on cold nights it is advisable to take containers with plants into a warm room. But in the heat, one should not forget to ventilate the room, in particular, this applies to glazed balconies.

Top dressing of tomatoes

Experienced agronomists advise watering nightshade on balconies only when necessary - when the topsoil dries. It is better to do this in the morning using warm water (more than 20 degrees). Pour the liquid not under the bush itself, but around it.

Tomatoes need not only to be watered, but also to be periodically fed.

But even the best varieties of tomatoes growing on the balcony need to be fed. Experienced gardeners use different mixtures as fertilizer. For example, someone prefers exclusively organic products and waters tomatoes with a solution of chicken manure or mullein (dilute with water 1: 5). But more often they use mineral fertilizers, which are sold in specialized stores. 30 g of a ready-made mixture of mineral fertilizers and 10 liters of water - this is quite enough for watering a rather large balcony garden. For the first time, such top dressing should be made about a week after planting the tomatoes on the balcony. In the future, feed the "bed" every 10 - 12 days. In order for the tomatoes on the balcony to develop more quickly, foliar fertilizers can also be used.

Experts call a urea solution a good option for feeding (add 1 teaspoon of urea to 3 liters of water). You can also mix a tablespoon of superphosphate and wood ash with 3 liters of water, or use nitroammophoska dissolved in water for irrigation (1 tablespoon per 3 liters of liquid).

How to form a beautiful bush?

Ways to form bushes

Beautiful bushes of tomatoes can also serve as a decorating element of the balcony. But a beautiful tomato "crown" does not form by itself. To make the bushes look aesthetically pleasing and give as much yield as possible, it is better to grow undersized plants in two stems. If there was a place on the balcony for tall tomato plants, then leave only one shoot - it is better to get rid of all stepchildren. Also, do not forget from time to time to remove the shoots coming from the axils of the leaves, but at the same time try not to damage the main stem. This is done in order to "clear" the bush from extra branches, making room for inflorescences and better lighting of the plant. In order to avoid the development of diseases, it is necessary to clean the bush in time from yellowed, fallen or already diseased leaves.

The main enemies of tomatoes

The most common problem when growing tomatoes on balconies is fungal diseases caused by excess moisture. You can defeat the problem by increasing the lighting of the balcony and frequent ventilation of the room. Bordeaux mixture gives good results in the fight against tomato fungi.

Mixing Ingredients:

• copper sulfate (10 g) diluted in water (0.9 l);
• slaked lime (20 g) diluted in 100 g of water.

Mix ingredients. Keep the finished mixture for no more than a day.

The most common tomato diseases:

• late blight, or brown rot of tomatoes;
• blackleg;
• anthracnose, or root rot;
• phomosis, or brown rot;
• top rot.

If we talk about pests, then spider mites and whiteflies cause the most trouble to tomatoes. They get rid of the first one by spraying the bush with an infusion of onion and garlic husks (200 g pour a liter of water). The whitefly is destroyed by means of the Confidor type.

Today, not only flowers and herbs, but also various vegetables are increasingly grown on open balconies and glazed loggias. You can often see green bushes with red tomatoes on the balconies. Even tomatoes grown in small containers can produce a good harvest. However, for this you need to choose the right variety, prepare the soil and fulfill all the conditions for growing tomatoes on the balcony.

On the balcony you can grow almost any variety of tomatoes. However, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loggia is small, then it is best to choose undersized bushes of the Oak, Malysh or Cherry varieties, which are distinguished by small fruits, but good yields. You should also pay attention to the special varieties of tomatoes for the balcony:

1. Balcony miracle - a hybrid variety bred for growing at home is distinguished by a bush height of 50 cm. With good care, fruits weighing up to 65 grams are formed on it. From one bush you can collect up to 2 kg of tomatoes per season.
2. Balkoni Elou is a hybrid early ripening variety up to 45 cm high. Tomatoes of this variety have a bright yellow color and are suitable for preservation.
3. Pinocchio is an unpretentious balcony variety characterized by early fruit ripening.
4. F1 Balcony red is an early ripening variety with medium-sized fruits and a bush height of up to 30 cm. The advantage of this variety is that it does not need to cut off stepchildren. The fruits have a sugary pleasant taste.

If the area allows, you can grow tall bushes on the balcony, tying them to supports. On closed loggias, it is recommended to grow self-pollinating varieties or pollinate plants yourself.

Growing tomato seedlings

At home, growing tomato seedlings for a balcony is no different from growing seedlings for a vegetable garden.

When to plant tomatoes for seedlings

The timing of sowing seeds depends on the variety chosen and on which balcony the tomatoes will grow. If the loggia is glazed, and it is warm on it already in April, then crops can be carried out in late February and early March. Tomato seeds that will grow on an open balcony should be sown later. Here, the time for sowing seeds depends on when heat is established in the region. If pots with tomatoes are taken out to the balcony only at the beginning of June, then crops should be done in April.

Seed and soil preparation

Today, stores sell planting material that does not require pre-treatment. If seeds from the market or collected on their own are used, then it is first recommended that they be disinfected in a weak raster of potassium permanganate, then wrapped in a damp cloth, kneaded in cellophane and a warm place. Planting can be done after the seeds have sprouts.

Soil for tomatoes can be purchased at a specialized store or made with your own hands from humus and sod (1: 1) or compost and old garden soil. For nutrition, superphosphate or wood ash is added to the substrate, and sawdust or peat for looseness.

If soil from the garden will be used, then it is recommended to disinfect it by heating it in a water bath or calcining it in the oven. After such treatment, all pest larvae and spores of harmful fungi present in the soil will die. Then the soil must be placed in a container with a lid and kept warm for two weeks so that bacteria useful for plants can grow and multiply in it.

Sowing tomato seeds with a step by step photo

For growing seedlings of balcony tomatoes, you can prepare common containers or individual pots. Even juice boxes are suitable as common containers, and instead of pots, you can take disposable cups.

Sowing tomato seeds is done as follows:

The containers are filled with pre-moistened substrate.

If containers or boxes are used, small indentations are made in them with a distance of 3-5 cm with a pencil or stick.

Tomato seeds are placed in the prepared holes, which are covered with soil from above.

Crops are sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle and covered with a film or cellophane.

Containers with crops should be placed in a warm place. Every day, polyethylene should be removed for a few minutes to ventilate the soil. If the soil from above begins to dry out, it is carefully moistened from a spray bottle using warm water.

Tomato seedling care - photo

From quality seeds, under the right conditions, seedlings will begin to appear in a week. They will need to be placed in a well-lit place, for which you can use the windowsill. It is not recommended to put seedlings on the southern windowsills, where young plants can burn direct sunlight.

Tomato seedling care includes the following procedures:

Regular watering. It is necessary to ensure that the earth does not dry out, otherwise the still fragile seedlings will simply dry out. It is best to spray the soil around the seedlings immediately after its top layer dries. But don't over-moisturize! Seedlings growing all the time in damp soil are often infected with the "black leg" and die.

Picking tomatoes.

When two or three true leaves appear on the tomato seedlings (about 2 weeks after germination), it is swooped down in separate pots. To do this, you can use plastic disposable cups or special containers.

After picking, the plants are watered less frequently, using only settled water at room temperature.

1. Feeding tomato seedlings. If the tomatoes were immediately planted in separate pots, then when two true leaves appear on them, the seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers. you can use the universal fertilizer Zdraven turbo. Picked tomatoes can not be fed for the first week, as they were planted in nutrient soil. Then the seedlings are fed every week.

Remember! So that the seedlings do not stretch out, they are placed in a well-lit place where it is not very hot. After picking, tomato seedlings can be left on a glazed loggia if the air temperature on it at night does not drop below +15 degrees.

How to grow tomatoes on the balcony

Transplanting tomatoes into pots - step by step photo

After about a month, grown and strengthened tomato bushes can be transplanted already into large pots or other containers, where they will grow all summer:

• for undersized varieties there will be enough containers with a volume of 3-5 liters;
• tall varieties are transplanted into pots or other containers with a volume of 8-12 liters.

You can also grow balcony tomatoes in deep boxes. Even a dense large plastic bag can be used as a container, having previously made drainage holes at the bottom.

Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pots first, and then wet soil. Tomato bushes, together with a clod of earth, must be carefully removed from the pots and placed in a prepared hole. In order for the plants to get a powerful and well-developed root system, it is recommended to cut off the cotyledons and several lower leaves.

And deepen the bush to the remaining leaves. Sprinkle the seedling to the lower leaves with a nutritious soil mixture and water well.

The first week the transplanted bushes should be kept in the shade, and when they adapt, move to a well-lit place.

Caring for balcony tomatoes

When growing tomatoes on a loggia, it should be remembered that their roots are in a limited space, therefore, they require more frequent moisture and top dressing than in open ground.

Watering the tomatoes 2-3 times a week with settled water. In the hot season, you may need to water the bushes more often.

Top dressing of tomatoes should be done every 10 days. For this, both mineral and ready-made organic fertilizers are used. Immediately after transplantation, the plants are fed with ammonium nitrate, urea or other nitrogen-containing fertilizer, which will contribute to the growth of green mass. In the future, feeding should be alternated and only those that are suitable for the formation of fruits should be used. If the fertilizer contains a lot of nitrogen, then only greens will grow rapidly on the bushes.

is a mandatory procedure. If you do not remove the shoots developing in the axils of the leaves, then all the forces of the plant will be spent on their development. Pasynkovanie stimulates the development of the main shoots, which further increases the yield.

If tall varieties were chosen for growing on the balcony, then even during transplanting into a pot near them, it is recommended put a support. You can pull a rope on the loggia and tie the bushes to it.

Diseases and pests balcony tomatoes are less scary than plants grown in the open field. However, contaminated soil, dry air and other causes can lead to the appearance of pests on tomatoes, which can be eliminated with the help of special insecticidal preparations. If dark spots appear on the leaves of a tomato, then this is the first sign of late blight. The plant requires treatment with fungicidal preparations.

Attention! In order for the inflorescences to be better laid, after the formation of the fruit brush, it is recommended to cut off the lower leaves..

When a sufficient number of inflorescences and fruits are formed on the bush, the top of the bush is broken off along with the flowers. Otherwise, the forces of the plant will go to the growth of the bush up and the development of weak inflorescences. After removing the top of the bush and flowers, the remaining fruits will begin to tie and develop faster and better.

After studying the step-by-step instructions for growing tomatoes on the balcony, you can harvest delicious fruits without leaving your home. To do this, it is enough to follow all the tips and recommendations that were described in our article.

Growing tomatoes at home on a balcony cannot be called a difficult task, but any details are important in this process - from the size of the dishes and variety to the need to regularly rotate the cups with seedlings (for uniform illumination of the sprouts). It is enough to harvest tomatoes at home a couple of times and you will want to teach your neighbors and friends how to grow tomatoes on the balcony. A very large varietal diversity allows you to choose types of tomatoes that are suitable not only in appearance and growing technique at home, but also in taste.

Tomato varieties: conditional division according to ripening time and natural indicators

Among the numerous types of tomatoes, it is necessary to choose tomatoes that have the appropriate characteristics for growing a house on a balcony.

Tomatoes on the balcony are not only delicious fruits, but also decoration

The main popular requirement for tomatoes when cultivating at home is a low stem. Although tall varieties (“Rapunzel”) are very interesting and promising in terms of harvest. Regarding the ripening time of the crop, the varieties are conditionally divided into early, medium and late-ripening. It is quite practical to simultaneously plant tomatoes on the balcony with different fruit ripening periods.

The most popular varieties:

• "Balcony Miracle" is an ultra-early crop, the time for full ripening of fruits is 84-89 days, the stem grows up to 50 cm tall. From one bush, the harvest can be up to 2 kg.
• "Minibel" is an early ripe variety, the fruits ripen in 90-100 days, the bushes are compact, growing up to 50 s, the tomatoes ripen weighing 20-25 grams.
• "Pinocchio" - an early ripening tomato (ripening time - 85-95 days), bush height - up to 30 cm.
• "F1 Balkoni Elou" - mid-early hybrid (ripening period - 100-110 days), the stem grows up to 45 cm in height, the fruits are spherical in shape, yellow in color, the taste is sweetish with a slight sourness.

Preparatory moments for growing balcony tomatoes

Tomatoes can be called unpretentious plants, but it is advisable to withstand certain care requirements in order to get a full and plentiful harvest at home.

• Placing and growing tomatoes on the sunny side of the house will contribute to the normal development of seedlings and the production of early ripe fruits.
• Tomatoes for a glazed balcony should not interfere with opening window sashes for ventilation; containers for planting crops must be selected taking into account the size of the window sill / table on the balcony, and it should be taken into account that the root system of tomatoes is highly developed. It is recommended to install 30-40 cm plastic pots, as they are light, they are easy to unfold and they already have special holes in the bottom. You can, of course, use cut plastic bottles (but when the roots become crowded, this can affect the quality and quantity of the crop). For undersized varieties "Balcony Miracle", "Pinocchio" enough land in flowerpots with a capacity of 4.5-5.5 liters.
• Soil quality is of particular importance for seedlings. It is not advisable to use country lands (they may contain harmful insects or bacteria). You can buy soil in specialized stores. Suitable universal soil mixed with fertilizers or ready-made soil mixture "Tomatoes".

Technology for growing tomatoes on balconies

Balcony tomatoes ("Pinocchio", "Balcony Miracle") have planting and care stages similar to soil varieties. Tomatoes "Balcony Miracle", "Pinocchio" on the windowsill or insulated balcony can be grown at home all year round.

Germination of tomato seeds: rules and useful tips

Preparing seedlings is a mandatory step when growing tomatoes at home on a loggia. Seeds are checked for germination before sowing - they are poured into a glass of water and left for 30-40 minutes. Floated seeds are empty and discarded. The rest of the planting material is disinfected - soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes. Then the seeds are thoroughly washed and left for two to three days in a warm place in a damp cloth. During this period, it is important to ensure constant humidity of the matter and a warm temperature.

Tomatoes can be grown immediately in beautiful pots, without seedlings

Sprouted tomato seeds (varieties "Balcony Miracle" and cherry tomatoes) are planted in plastic cups with soil. Such planting of seeds will be justified during subsequent planting in large flowerpots, since the sprouts will be transferred with the ground and the root system will not be damaged. A hole is made 1-1.5 cm deep and gently moistened. Seeds (one or two) are planted in each cup, covered with soil and everything is slightly moistened. All cups are placed in one container (tray), covered with paper or cloth and kept in a warm place until seedlings emerge.

The first sprouts appear in two or three days. Now it is important to provide sufficient lighting for seedlings. If the plants are kept on the north side of the building or the weather is not sunny, it is necessary to provide artificial lighting (three hours in the morning and in the evening). Seedlings are best watered with warm, settled water once every four to five days. A container with seedlings can be covered at night.

Tomato seedling care

Planting seedlings on a permanent place of growth is carried out when the sprouts reach a height of 8-12 cm. In order not to damage the plant during transplantation, it is recommended to pre-moisten the ground. The glass is turned over and lightly tapped on the bottom. To carefully remove the sprouts from the cup, they are held by holding them between the fingers. The longest central spine is dived. This is done in order to form a branched root system in plants in the future. The soil mixture in a large pot is poured to a level of 3/4 of the height of the container (so that it can be added later).

The soil in the container with sprouts is added gradually, which will contribute to the formation of a strong root system and a strong green stem.

A hole in the ground is made according to the height of the cup, moistened. Transplanted seedlings are carefully watered and left in a warm shaded place. Watering cherry tomatoes on the balcony is better in the morning. When watering, it is important to maintain water balance - the earth should not be dry, but waterlogging also harms plants.

Seedlings can be fertilized two weeks after picking. The first top dressing is carried out with a solution of copper (1 teaspoon of the substance per 10 liters of water) to protect plants from late blight. Two weeks later, urea is used (1 tablespoon of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water) to recruit green mass sprouts. The third top dressing is carried out in order to provide tomatoes with nutrients. Apply a solution of "Nitrophoska" - 50 grams of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. In general, there are a lot of compositions for feeding tomatoes. For the correct procedure, follow the instructions on the packaging.

Young tomatoes need a lot of light

For proper care and feeding of seedlings, the Balcony Miracle tomato should be monitored for the appearance of the sprouts. The pale color of the leaves indicates a lack of iron, a purple hue indicates a lack of phosphorus. Light yellow sheets may appear from a lack of nitrogen or from a lack of light, large temperature fluctuations

As soon as constant climatic indicators are established (the optimum temperature regime is +24 during the day and not less than +10 at night), you can take the seedlings to the open balcony. On glazed balconies in hot weather, it is necessary to provide ventilation for the tomato and carefully monitor the humidity of the air and the need for watering the soil.

Stepchildren that germinate in the axils of the leaves and grow out of the ground must be plucked, as they will absorb a lot of nutrients. Cut tomatoes for an open / glazed balcony in such a way that two or three strong trunks are preserved. During this period, a tomato garter should be arranged - a peg is inserted into the pot or a trellis is equipped. What type of support to apply depends on the stems of the tomato.

Small-fruited varieties of tomatoes grow well on the balcony

Tomato blossom and harvest

When the Balcony Miracle tomato blooms, it is correct to leave the glazed balcony open for pollination of plants. When it is undesirable to open the window sashes, tomatoes for a glazed balcony are pollinated by hand - for this, it is enough to shake each bush slightly.

At air temperatures above +35 degrees, fruits do not set (pollen becomes sterile). Therefore, in hot weather, additional ventilation and evening watering of plants is necessarily provided.

For the full ripening of tomatoes, it is advisable to remove the flowers near the formed fruit brushes.

When frost occurs, green fruits are plucked and left to ripen in a warm place (provided that the plant cannot be brought into rooms from an open balcony).

The selection is evolving all the time. New types of tomatoes are being developed, and some are specifically for growing in apartment conditions. Which variety to choose - everyone decides individually. Someone loves small tomatoes on the balcony (varieties "Balcony Miracle", "Pinocchio"), and some will like the tall variety "Rapunzel" - a kind of balcony-tomato vine. Attentive care is the main requirement for growing any plants at home. If you follow all the procedures step by step and correctly, then the tomatoes on the balcony of the Balcony Miracle variety will reward the owners with a well-deserved abundant harvest.

For many years, urban residents who do not have a country house or a country plot have been trying to grow balcony tomatoes in their apartment. Many succeed, and then it becomes possible not only to rejoice in success, but also to enjoy the fruits of their labor and harvest a rich harvest without leaving the apartment.

Certain varieties of tomatoes created by breeders take root perfectly in ordinary flower pots and bear fruit abundantly. They are unpretentious in care, do not require pinching and give an excellent harvest, subject to certain growing rules.

A variety of varieties for growing on the balcony

Growing tomatoes on the balcony begins with the choice of a variety of this plant. Among the huge variety offered by sellers, it is necessary to find those that grow well and do not require artificial pollination. All varieties sold are hybrids, so choosing the most suitable for growing at home, you should be guided by:

• to the height that the bush is gaining;
• the number of fruits;
• the need for pinching;
• the possibility of growing without pinching the top.

The last condition is important to observe because the size of the seat is quite small, and the amount of soil is limited. That is why it is better to purchase seeds of undersized varieties. The fact is that after pinching the top, the growth process noticeably slows down and flowering is delayed for at least 14 days.

Variety Balcony Miracle

Ideal for growing on the balcony and in high demand are varieties such as "Pinocchio" and "Balcony Miracle". Although the latter will probably have to be pinched, or provide them with a quality garter. No less popular:

• Micron;
• Bonsai;
• Cascade;
• The pearl is red;
• Yellow pearl.

Studying the description, you should pay attention to the ripening period of the fruit and buy seeds of early ripening varieties. Planted in late September or very early October, they will produce a bountiful harvest just in time for the new year.

The usual period from planting to harvesting fruits is from one hundred to one hundred and ten days.

How to plant balcony tomatoes

Before you buy seeds and start planting them, you need to learn how to grow tomatoes on the balcony and get a rich harvest. The selected seeds must first be soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and after 15-20 minutes, rinse with warm running water and put on a damp cotton cloth.

You can use ordinary paper napkins or cotton pads, but you need to take into account the fact that only the roots that have appeared can grow through them and they will simply break when transplanted into the ground.

Seeds do not have to be germinated on fabric, 100 gram cups can be used. This method is a dive landing. The container is filled with fertile soil, not reaching the edge of 2 cm, moistened and laid out on the surface of several seeds. Sprinkle with a centimeter layer of soil and put on the windowsill or in another bright and warm place.

When planting without picking, the seeds are laid out immediately in pots or in a selected large container filled with earth not reaching 4-5 cm to the top edge of the pot. When growing tomatoes on a balcony step by step, it is necessary to strictly follow the order of work and take into account all the nuances. So, for example, soil is not added to pots because the subsequent addition of earth will replace the pick.

Seeds are spread on moist soil and do not cover the surface with glass or film. The soil must "breathe". Otherwise, instead of the greenhouse effect, rotting will begin, and the seeds will die.

In an effort to achieve a greenhouse effect and closing the container with the planted seeds with a film, you will have to raise it daily, providing air access and ventilation.

The first sprouts and seedling care

The seeds will germinate in a few days. First, two thin leaves will appear, and after another 3-4 days, you can notice the appearance of the third and fourth sheets. Now they will have a figured edge and a subtle smell of tomato tops will appear.

Now you need to monitor the uniform distribution of the light flux and moderate moisture intake. This means that every day it is necessary to rotate the pots with sprouts 180 ° around its axis and adhere to the rule "better to underfill than overfill". Too much moisture will cause the roots to rot. To ensure full access of oxygen to the roots of seedlings, the soil in pots is regularly loosened.

Water intended for irrigation is defended for several days. It should be at room temperature, and the first feeding is carried out no earlier than 60 days after the first shoots appear. The best fertilizer is recognized as humus, which is sprinkled on the surface of the soil. In the process of loosening, it mixes with the ground, and the roots receive a sufficient amount of nutrients.

Picking and shaping a bush

In order to grow full-fledged balcony tomatoes, it is necessary to choose and leave the strongest ones from several sprouts that have risen in a glass or in a pot. The rest will have to be removed. When performing a pick, the cup with the selected sprout is turned upside down and the soil is carefully released. When preparing the container into which the seedlings will be transplanted, drainage is formed at the bottom using expanded clay and a little foam. The first will provide air access, and the second will retain the right amount of moisture.

Watch a video about growing tomatoes on the balcony:

Fertile soil is poured into a container so that after installing growth, at least 3 centimeters remain to the upper edge of the pot, and the distance to the side walls is 1.5-2 centimeters. Proper growth and distribution of roots depends on the shape of the pot. Therefore, to avoid a crease or deformation of the root will allow the use of a container of a round or oval shape. The main thing is that the bottom should not have corners.

Long trunks of tomato bushes feel uncomfortable if they grow tomatoes on a balcony or on a windowsill. Of course, you need to equip a retaining structure and tie up each plant, but to form the right lush bush, either pinch its top or choose a certain form of support. It is better to take care of everything in advance and, when buying, choose undersized varieties, the bushes of which grow no more than 50 centimeters high.

Low bushes should be grown, leaving only two shoots, removing all other additional shoots (stepchildren). Long creepers are grown, leaving one shoot and getting rid of all stepchildren. This will noticeably speed up flowering, and for better pollination, flowering tomato bushes are gently shaken every two days.

Another feature of balcony tomatoes is that during the flowering period it is imperative to get rid of flowers located at the top of the bush even before the first ovary appears. In this way, it is possible to improve the nutrition of fruits on the lower branches, to increase their number and accelerate ripening.

A large number of tomatoes on one bush requires more frequent watering. However, do not forget that the earth in pots should not be too wet, but slightly damp. It should be watered by directing a jet of water not under the base of the stem, along the entire contour of the crown.

Great video on growing tomatoes on the balcony:

If you want to get lush bushes, you must abandon pinching, continuing to cut off the top flowers. Harvesting should be carried out regularly, as the fruits ripen. Some of them are plucked "brown", that is, unripe. This avoids the depletion of the bush, accelerate the formation of a new ovary and fruit ripening.