How to restore an old cast iron bath. How to update a bath - a modern approach Update with an acrylic liner

Bath renovation- a range of services for the restoration and restoration of the bath. The list of services related to the renovation of the bathtub includes the restoration of bathtubs with acrylic (using the “filling bathtub” method) and enamelling. A mandatory component is a thorough surface preparation: cleaning, grinding, degreasing. On this page you can find out more about the bath renovation services in Moscow from the MosGorVanna company.

Restoration of bathtubs with acrylic from 2490₽

Bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic- a great way to restore plumbing to a beautiful appearance and significantly increase its service life. Restoring a bathtub with acrylic will allow you to completely renew the coating in just a couple of hours, making it snow-white clean and smooth. Restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic is carried out in several stages, requiring experience and patience. In order not to risk time and money, arrange the services of specialists - our company offers to order the restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic in Moscow.

The modern technology of restoring the bathtub coating with acrylic - “filling bathtub” - will allow you to quickly update the old coating. Acrylic will serve you for 15-20 years, and all work will take only 2 hours.

Acrylic insert in the bathtub from 3490₽

Acrylic Insert - Acrylic Insert Installation- a way to improve the appearance of the bathroom, save money on the purchase, delivery and installation of a new bathtub and repair work. The service "Installation of an acrylic liner in Moscow" is offered by many organizations. The company "MosGorVanna" produces the installation of liners, provided with a quality certificate of the original product of the company ISComp.

Bathtub enameling from 3000₽

Bathtub enameling- an inexpensive and time-tested way to restore a coating that has lost its attractive appearance. This restoration method is suitable for cast iron and steel products. Bathtub coating with enamel allows you to renew the color, eliminate roughness, stains and smudges. Enamel is also used to restore bathtubs if it is necessary to hide scratches, chips and cracks. The main advantages of enameling bathtubs are that it does not require dismantling, re-tiling the side and removing the drain. Restoration of bathtubs with enamel takes a relatively short amount of time, and the result is preserved for several years.

color bath

Colored bath (bath tinting)— an interesting design decision. With the help of tinting paste, we will give any shade to both the acrylic coating and the enamel of your bath. Show your imagination, and we will realize your desire.

Any method of bath restoration, whether it is a bulk bath, enamel or acrylic insert, can be combined with a change in the color of your bath. There is nothing more inviting than a gleaming white bathtub. However, the color scheme for your bath can add individuality and a unique effect to the design. Therefore, if your bathroom already has colored sanitary ware or you just want to make an unusual bath, order a bath tinting service.

Local repair of chips and scratches

Repair of cracks, chips, and scratches in the bathtub– This service is suitable for those who are not suitable for traditional restoration (owners of baths of non-standard shapes and sizes; baths with hydromassage systems; expensive or new baths).

The choice of method depends on the repair of chips on the bathtub or sink on the nature and extent of the defect. The peculiarity of this type of restoration is locality. The main types of flaws include:

  • elimination of spalls of the bathtub coating on the sides, borders with the bathtub drain, the bathtub surface;
  • repair of bathtub cracks, differ from scratches in the depth of damage;
  • elimination of through holes in the bath.

other services

Often the price of bath restoration rises precisely because of the provision of unnecessary extras. services by unscrupulous firms. The only thing that is necessary is cleaning the bath, if it was previously covered with something, all other additional. services are made only at your request and are not mandatory. For example, we recommend that you replace an old drain/overflow to give your bath an even more beautiful and noble appearance, but, again, this is not necessary.

Price for bathroom renovation, painting and new coating

MosGorVanna has been on the plumbing services market for nine years. During this time, we have built up an extensive client base. The price of a bathroom renovation is lower than the competition, while maintaining the excellent quality of work.

Depending on the possibilities, the price of bath renovation may vary:

  • "Economy" (required minimum), from 2490 rubles;
  • "Standard" (optimal), from 3400 rubles;
  • "Premium" (or "Premium 8") - with advanced features, from 4900 rubles.

The cost of updating a bathtub in Moscow determines the choice of composition, the strength of the coating and the period of warranty service.

Bath renewal products

To renovate bathtubs, MosGorVanna specialists use brand products: Finnacryl, Stacril Ecolor and AKReal. The application methods of each of the bath refreshers offer options in each of the three price plans.

Depending on the manufacturer, the compositions differ in parameters:

  • "Finnacryl" - odorless, with the possibility of obtaining an impact-resistant coating and a durability guarantee (in the "Premium-8" category) - 5 years.
  • "Stacril Ecolor" - acceptable quality at low cost, environmental safety, warranty - for the tariff plan "Lux" - 3 years;
  • "AKReal" - high strength and durability, a guarantee - in the package "Premium-8" - 5 years.

Bath renovation in Moscow: Why us?

1. professionalism and narrow specialization: MosGorVanna has been providing services for the restoration of bathtubs since 2008;
2. narrow-profile (restoration) and related works: the turnkey method frees the customer from cleaning, noise, dust, dirt;
3. expedited work methods and the provision of a written guarantee.

"MosGorVanna" - renovation of the bath in the exact time, at a low price and with excellent quality of work!


Liquid acrylic is a modern material with which you can qualitatively restore the bathtub with your own hands. It consists of a base having a sufficiently high density and a hardener. Can be used to restore steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Materials and tools

To restore the bath, you will need bulk liquid acrylic, plumbing cleaners and degreasers, soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bath sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.


You need to prepare a tool for work:
  • grinder;
  • drill;
  • whisk nozzle;
  • pliers;
  • sandpaper of various grain sizes;
  • rubber spatula;
  • respirator;
  • vacuum cleaner;
  • sponge
  • gloves;
  • flashlight.


When using a drill to grind the surface of the bath, you will need a special nozzle.
Note: a building hair dryer and a clerical knife will come in handy for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored to it.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).

Bath preparation

The appearance and service life of the applied coating will depend on the quality of the preparation. First, the overflow and drain are removed. A grinder or a drill with a grinding nozzle must carefully treat the surface of the bath. For this, sandpaper for rough work 40-N or 32-N (according to GOST 3647-80) is used. Emery will help remove the resulting water deposits. The surface after sanding should be rough to ensure good adhesion of liquid acrylic.



Note: non-factory enamel, applied earlier for the restoration of the bath, is removed with a clerical knife after heating with a hair dryer.



The bathtub needs to be cleaned and washed off the remnants of debris. Then the surface is treated with a sanitary ware cleaner - the poured agent must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bath, including the installation site of the removed overflow.



The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, proceed to the next important stage of work - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and carefully rubbed with coarse sandpaper over the entire surface.


Maybe degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You have to work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a jet of water from the shower.


Before starting the next step, you need to remove the siphon.


The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.


The faucet and shower are covered with a bag and fixed with adhesive tape - water should not get on the applied layer of bulk liquid acrylic until it dries completely. Tiles and shelves above the bathroom rag are cleaned of dust particles. Sanding dust must not be allowed to get on acrylic.



After completing this stage, the bath must be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Particular attention is paid to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the side and restore the bath without it. The cement seams at the junction with the bathroom are well dried with a hair dryer.



To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), a quick-drying automotive putty is used.


The composition is stirred and applied with a rubber spatula to the damaged areas, after which it is allowed to dry.



While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathroom and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are fixed with adhesive tape.


So when pouring, liquid acrylic will not spoil the floor and wall tiles.
After the putty dries, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. A vacuum cleaner removes dust particles from the bath.


With a degreaser (acetone) wipe the places of putty cracks and chips. It is also necessary to wipe with acetone the places where the overflow and siphon are installed. A container is placed under the drain hole (you can use a cut plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.

Coating

After completion of the preparatory work, they begin to prepare liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed with a drill with a whisk attachment.


It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. Stir the composition for 10 minutes.
Important! Do not forget about the pot life of the finished mixture, which is indicated on the package. During this time, you need to complete the work.
Before pouring, the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. To work, you need a plastic container into which acrylic is poured. You can use a cut and well-wiped hardener bottle. Work is performed in medical gloves.
Note: adding color paste will allow you to get the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of the total mass of the composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.



Going lower, they help themselves with a rubber spatula, with which acrylic is rubbed into the surface of the bath. Having achieved full coverage with liquid acrylic, a spatula makes zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.




The bath is left for 5 minutes. The light is turned off and using a flashlight, the surface of the bath is checked for defects or irregularities (streaks) that need to be leveled with a spatula.



Important! When mixing the composition, air bubbles could form. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is blown with a hair dryer at low speed with quick movements.
After 10 minutes, the surface is checked again with a flashlight. The bath can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until then, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on the technical characteristics of the material and the temperature regime in the room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.

Summary of work

As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. After each use, the bathtub should be washed with special acrylic care products, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:
  • long service life;
  • beautiful appearance;
  • smooth surface;
  • excellent performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
  • possibility of restoration in the future.
The bathtub after the restoration will be practically in no way inferior to the new bathtub.
The disadvantages of this technology include:
  • long time required for complete drying of the surface;
  • specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
  • the need to purchase bathroom care products.

Tricks at work

A high-quality bath surface will be obtained when the composition is applied in a uniform thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour the second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. So the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.

A few years ago, the restoration of the bath was carried out in only one way - by re-applying a layer of enamel.

Liquid acrylic coating is an effective and easy option for the restoration of steel and cast iron bathtubs.

Acrylic bathtub renovation is becoming more and more popular today, as this method has many advantages.

Restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic deserves attention also because it is not difficult to do this process with your own hands, thanks to it you can update old plumbing within a few hours at home without much difficulty. And then the appearance of the bathroom will be much more attractive, and there is no doubt that visiting such a room will always be accompanied by only the most positive emotions.

Painting tools: brush, roller, soft sponge, spatula.

A bathtub that has been refurbished with acrylic looks like new and it's safe to say that its lifespan can be extended by at least 15 years. So how to update the bathtub with acrylic with your own hands, what will you need for this? The following tools are needed:

  • brush;
  • roller;
  • soft sponge;
  • putty knife.

If everything is done properly, the old bath will look just as good, if not better, than the new one, which is an important factor for this room.

Liquid acrylic - its properties and why it is chosen for the bathroom

A material such as liquid acrylic is a coating that is unique in its properties, which can “replace” an old bath with a new one, without the need to dismantle the tiles and the bath itself.

Acrylic is resistant to mechanical stress, has excellent decorative qualities.

Such material is highly resistant to mechanical and chemical influences, it has excellent decorative qualities. The surface covered with acrylic is never too slippery. When it is planned to update the bathroom, liquid bulk acrylic is most often used, before proceeding with the restoration of the bathtub, it is necessary to treat the surface with a high-density two-component enamel, which consists of a base and a hardener. Such liquid acrylic perfectly copes with its purpose, it has a whole set of positive qualities:

  1. The smoothness of the material is such that it exceeds the smoothness of the bath surface when factory casting is carried out, thus providing increased resistance to external influences.
  2. Due to the low thermal conductivity in the bath, the temperature of the water lasts longer, so if you plan to restore the bath with acrylic, then taking a bath becomes much more comfortable in the future. A comparison can be made - in an ordinary cast-iron bathtub, water loses 1 ° in about 3 minutes, and in a bathtub that has been updated with acrylic, the water cools down for at least 30 minutes.
  3. Ease of care is also an undoubted advantage of such a finish, so you don’t have to spend a lot of time washing the bath. It is enough to simply wipe the acrylic bath with a soft sponge and soapy water, you do not need to use abrasive products.
  4. Among the advantages of acrylic, high strength should be noted, since it is practically not subject to wear, so the appearance of the bathroom will always be like new.

Preparation for applying liquid acrylic

Before the restoration of the old bath begins, you need to get rid of the old coating and prepare the surface. This is done as follows:

Stubborn rust and deep scratches are removed with a drill with a grinding attachment.

  1. If there are small scratches and yellow spots, it will be enough to treat the surface with sandpaper. If the old enamel has deep scratches and ingrained rust, then the coating is removed using a drill with a grinding attachment. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the fact that cleaning with a drill will cause a large amount of dust in the bathroom, so it is imperative to wear a protective mask during such work.
  2. The dirt remaining after stripping is washed off.
  3. The surface of the bath must be degreased with a solvent, you can use baking soda in this capacity. In this case, the soda is diluted to a gruel state, and when the processing is completed, everything must be washed off with hot water.
  4. If there are cracks and chips on the surface, then they need to be treated with auto-putty, which dries instantly.
  5. Restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic implies a warm surface, otherwise the enamel will not lie flat. The bath bowl is filled with hot water, then it is left for 5 minutes and drained. After that, the surface must be dried (only very quickly), for this a cloth is used that does not leave lint.
  6. The upper and lower drains are dismantled, this is done so that the remains of acrylic do not fall into the sewer. Under them, special dishes are installed under the bath. If dismantling fails (this happens if the bathtub is tiled), then the bottom drain is sealed with adhesive tape or adhesive tape, and the bottom of the plastic cup is inserted on top so that acrylic remains fall into it.
  7. After all this is done, you can proceed directly to updating the bath.

Bathtub technology

One of the most common technologies for restoring an old bathtub is a “filling bathtub”, this technology is carried out as follows.

In accordance with the instructions, you need to prepare a mixture (it is a two-component one), a small part of this mixture is poured into a container, and acrylic will be “poured” from it.

The mixture is poured in a stream until a layer of 4-6 cm is formed.

  1. A thin strip is poured onto the side, and with a spatula the substance is slipped under the edge of the tile.
  2. The mixture is poured in a gentle stream onto the edge of the rim in such a way that a layer of 4 to 6 cm is formed, and the liquid should drain approximately to the middle of the bath.
  3. After that, the jet is mixed along the rim and moves along the perimeter of the bath until the ring is closed. It's not worth stopping for a long time. If during this process there are losses and influxes, then there is no need to try to fix them, then they will disappear on their own.
  4. Now you need to pour acrylic in the middle of the bath, the entire surface should be covered, while you need to move in a spiral.

This technology is very economical when compared with the acquisition of new plumbing. In order to update a standard size bathtub with acrylic, you will need approximately 3.4 kg of acrylic. Restoring a bathtub with acrylic is not a quick process, a professional master spends an average of 2 hours on it, and a person who does not have such skills can spend 2 times more time on it.

After all work is completed, the bath must be left to dry completely, it can take from 1 to 4 days, much in this regard depends on the specific properties of acrylic.

If you need the restoration to take place in a short time, it is recommended to use quick-drying acrylic, then the bathroom can be used in a day. There is also long-drying acrylic, it can dry for 4 days, but it forms a stronger surface, so it is recommended to opt for this material. As for the guarantee: if you carefully follow all the instructions for restoring the bath with your own hands, then such updated plumbing can last at least 15 years, and if you provide proper care, then all 20 years. So updating an old bathtub is worth your effort.

One of the most important advantages of cast iron bathtubs is their durability. Such plumbing is able to serve faithfully for several decades, while maintaining technical characteristics. However, over time, the bath may lose its original whiteness.

Agree, not everyone is ready to get rid of high-quality cast iron for the sake of plastic or steel counterparts. An alternative solution is to restore the bathtub with liquid acrylic at home. The work is simple, but requires compliance with some nuances.

We will tell you how to choose high-quality acrylic for a bathtub, identify manufacturers you can trust, and also describe in detail the sequence of updating old plumbing. The information provided will help home craftsmen restore the former gloss of the coating and extend the life of the font.

First, let's deal with the terms. The domestic market for acrylic products designed to restore the bowl of a well-used bathtub is full of brands. "Plastol", "Yarley", "Standard", "Stakril", Finnacril and even "Eco-enamel"- many names.

All enamels are two-component, approximately the same price - 1400-1500 rubles. for a 3.4 kg jar, which is enough to cover a one and a half meter container with acrylic.

All paints and varnishes of the "liquid acrylic" group, incl. Each of the trade brands listed above performs restoration of the bathtub. Two-component acrylic is poured over the walls of the sanitary bowl, which polymerizes and hardens, turning into a smooth and durable coating in a day.

A bulk bath is not a commercial product, but a painting technology. It consists in pouring a new paint coating over the existing worn paint layer. Manufacturers develop their own series of acrylic-enamel restoration materials for bathtubs, the formulas of which are carefully hidden from competing companies.

In the circle of masters in the restoration of bathroom containers and their clients, liquid acrylic of any brand is commonly called glass. Although "Stakril" is a brand of the St. Petersburg enterprise "Ecolor", popular rumor assigns the name of its brand to all liquid acrylic compositions.

In the usual kit with liquid acrylic there is a bottle with a hardener. Some manufacturers offer
a set of three products - liquid acrylic, hardener and degreaser

The reason is simple: "Stakryl" was the first widely advertised polymer material for bathroom restoration, which is why it became a household name for liquid acrylics in general. The technically correct name for acrylic-based bath paints is "poured acrylic".

Therefore, when choosing an acrylic bathroom paint, it is necessary to name a specific brand of product, and not "you have stacryl."

Now about quality. Liquid acrylic manufacturing companies Ecolor LLC (Stakril brand), Plastol LLC, Ecovanna LLC and NPK YarLi CJSC (Yarli brand) are the largest enterprises in Russia.

It is their products that are recognized as the highest quality in the domestic market. For self-repair of the enamel coating of the bathroom, you should choose one of the named brands.

In addition to having their own technical laboratories, many years of experience in the production and distribution of products throughout Russia, the products of all four listed manufacturers of bulk acrylic have one more advantage - they are trying to imitate it.

On the one hand, this is a plus, because it makes no sense to produce fake products under a bad brand and a fake product. However, the downside is obvious - the likelihood of acquiring low-quality goods.

The manufacturing company "Stakryl" has not changed the design of its packaging for many years. Therefore, any other colors on
containers with acrylic mean only one thing - a fake

Fake bulk acrylic

There are more and more homeowners who are interested in restoring the enamel in the bathtub every year. Following the growing demand, manufacturers of bulk acrylic are expanding production and improving the series of acrylic enamels for sanitary equipment. But a variety of types of "entrepreneurs" seek to make money on this paint and varnish material.

First type: small companies intending to carve out a niche in the local market. Before reaching consumers with liquid acrylic of their own production, they buy up the products of large companies in bulk, pour them into their own containers and sell them under their own brand.

Having arranged buyers for a “new product” in a few months of sale, such firms begin to bottle not someone else's products, but their own. Lacking funds and equipment, these companies develop "optimum performance" acrylic technologies using raw materials from dubious suppliers.

Second type: such enterprises also purchase large quantities of liquid acrylic with a hardener from well-known manufacturers, but only in original containers with a label.

Next, each container is opened, a part of the product is poured from there and the solvent is added. Diluted acrylic is taken to the market and sold under the guise of the original product.

If liquid acrylic is diluted with a solvent, its performance will drop dramatically. Such a coating does not adhere well to the bath, it is too liquid and brittle. After a short time, the painted bath turns yellow, the enamel peels off. Note that it is impossible to dilute liquid acrylic with anything other than the hardener that comes with the kit.

This fake is easy to recognize by the wrong color of the label and the low-quality plastic from which its container is made. Similar “products” regularly appear in various regions of Russia

Third type: A small business purchases several containers of liquid acrylic of famous brands, tries to copy them. Having developed a very approximate formula and technological process, this company buys the cheapest possible raw materials. The release of products with bright labels and names begins.

The manufacturer does not make any attempts to popularize a certain product brand, because the product is of poor quality and soon there will be no buyers for it. However, the company often changes the shape of the containers and the name of the product, thereby restarting its sales again and again. Such liquid acrylic cannot be called high-quality, only cheap.

Nikolai Fedorenko

The largest domestic manufacturers have been engaged in improving the formula, improving the technological process for the production of liquid acrylic for more than five to eight years each. Only their products are able to serve as long as possible, have no odors and are resistant to yellowing. Therefore, it is necessary to choose enamels of large enterprises for repairing a bathtub.

Nikolai Fedorenko Expert in the field of arranging sewer systems and water supply systems

In the regional markets of Russia, fakes under acrylic enamels most often appear "Stakril", Ecovanna and "Plastol". To interfere with imitators, manufacturers of these brands periodically change the color scheme and shape of cans with liquid acrylic, with a hardener.

You can find out the actual look of the brand you are interested in by visiting the manufacturer's website and studying the product description page.

However, the product sells differently in different regions - some parties are sold out for months. Within the manufacturer's warranty period and if properly stored, the packaged Liquid Acrylic is fully usable.

Suppose you are offered a branded product, say, "Plastol" - the expiration date is in order, but the bucket is decorated in an outdated manufacturer's design. The seller explains: the batch of acrylic arrived before the change in the design of the cans by the Plastol company, and the rest of the goods are original.

Examine the bucket of acrylic and bottle of hardener:

  • Lid marking."Plastol" prints the batch number on the lid of the cans using the laser lithography method. Manufacturers of "Ecovanna" and "Stakryl" mark the lids with adhesive labels, where the batch number is printed. There should be no other labels on the lids.
  • Cap color. Be sure to make sure that the color of the caps on the jar and bottle matches the product image on the manufacturer's website.
  • Brand logo. The stickers on the sides of the jar and bottle must contain the actual logo of the manufacturer;
  • The correctness of the label. Labels on the sides of cans with acrylic, on bottles with solvent are applied by the original manufacturer by means of flow-machine gluing. Skewed, crumpled areas mean that the label was glued by hand and it is a fake;
  • Fill integrity. The plastic fuse on the lids of the hardener bottle and the liquid acrylic jar must be intact (not broken).

The caps of bottles containing liquid hardener are usually signed with a marker when they are released - this is normal. There is not enough space on the bottle cap to fully print or place a label.

For more information about the types of poured acrylic, as well as tips for choosing restoration enamel, see the articles:

Do-it-yourself bath restoration

Self-restoration of the enamel coating of the bath bowl will save an average of 1200-1700 rubles (masters take so much). However, you need to evaluate your skills before starting work: a minimum experience in assembling plumbing and doing painting work is essential.

The process of preparing the bath and casting a new coating requires accuracy, otherwise long-term quality cannot be achieved.

Applied materials and tools

So, you have acquired a sufficient volume of liquid acrylic and hardener. Please note: you need a volume of acrylic enamel, which will be enough to finish your bathroom. Soviet models have a length of 1400-1700 mm, European products are made with a maximum length of 1800 mm.

All required tools with protective equipment must be prepared before starting work on the “bulk bath”.
Carefully evaluate your readiness for work. At the stripping stage, it is still permissible to stop work, but after
mixing acrylic with hardener must not be stopped

Manufacturers indicate on containers with liquid acrylic the length of the bath, for which the calibrated volume of material is calculated. Measure the length of the bowl along its center, from the edge of one side to the edge of the other. If your object of work is longer than the size indicated on the acrylic can, you need to buy more material. It is important.

For enameling using the “filling bath” technology, the following tools and materials are needed:

  1. Mixing device. When manually mixing acrylic with hardener and color, you will need a wooden or plastic spatula - blade width 40-60 mm, handle length 500-600 mm. Mixing with a drill with a mixer should not be done, only manually.
  2. Sandpaper- 5 pieces. (230*280 mm). Requires emery grade P60 (according to ISO-6344) or 25-H (according to GOST 3647-80) on a fabric basis, waterproof.
  3. Thinner No. 646 or 647. It will be required to degrease the surface of the bath bowl after sanding and rinsing it.
  4. Putty knife– width 100 mm. A metal spatula will do, but only a new one, without dirt and rusty streaks.
  5. adhesive tape- adhesive tape, 50 mm wide. You will need two types of adhesive tape - masking (on paper) and fixing (on film).
  6. Wallpaper knife. Essential for stripping tape and trimming dried acrylic drips from a bathroom drain before reinstalling a drain/overflow.
  7. Screwdrivers- straight and cross to remove the drain-overflow siphon. A gas wrench may also be required;
  8. Stool. Mixing acrylic with a hardener and picking up prepared enamel in a container for application is much more convenient if you put a bucket of liquid acrylic on a stool.

In principle, to prepare the walls and bottom of the bathtub for casting with acrylic, it is enough to manually process them with sandpaper. But only if it has not been stained with anything before, i.e. factory enamel on the surface. Otherwise, cleaning with a drill or a grinder will be required.

To eliminate the secondary enamel, the drill needs a Velcro attachment and P40 (or 40-H) emery circles, for a grinder - grinding wheels of the same brand.

Required protective equipment:

  1. Work clothes- Trousers, long-sleeved shirt or jacket. Drops of acrylic on the skin are not dangerous, but after drying, it is quite difficult to remove them.
  2. Headdress- at least a scarf. Hair should not get on the enamel coating during the casting process.
  3. Respirator- at least "petal". Cleaning the bathtub will cause a strong release of dust, you should not breathe such air.
  4. Disposable latex gloves. Hands must be protected from contact with liquid acrylic.

You will need newspaper sheets or PVC film to cover and hang the surfaces around the restored plumbing. We remind you that drops of hardened acrylic spilled during the restoration process are very difficult to remove.

Preparing the bathroom

Gather and take out the items usually contained in this room: toothbrushes, towels, laundry basket, other cosmetic and hygiene items. You need to remove the shower curtain, if possible - the bar for the curtain should also be removed.

It should be noted that bowls with cracks cannot be restored. Therefore, it will have to be installed.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Acrylic enameling of a bowl previously painted with other enamel and requiring puttying of individual sections:

Video instruction for restoring the bathtub finish with liquid acrylic from the manufacturer of Plastol restoration compositions:

The following video describes the process of installing the strapping, dismantled before applying the acrylic enamel:

Guided by the instructions in the article, you will restore the enamel coating of the bath yourself. An updated container will last as long as it has been carefully repaired.

Note that the finish of bulk acrylic requires careful cleaning. It is impossible to use abrasive agents, only liquid ones, and substances containing a solvent will not work either.

Share with readers your experience of restoring an old cast-iron bath. Please leave comments on the article, ask your questions, participate in discussions and attach photos of the updated plumbing. The feedback form is located below.

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    • - 2 wide brushes (at least 7 cm wide);
    • - color for enamel;
    • – two-component epoxy enamel
    • - grinder, cord brush;
    • - a respirator with a cartridge;
    • - vacuum cleaner;
    • - cooker cleaner

    Prepare the bath: it must be degreased, the surfaces roughened so that the old and new coatings have the largest contact area. You need to degrease 2 times - before processing with a grinder and after, immediately before applying the enamel. Use a Sanita type slab cleaner or a Sanox type toilet cleaner that contains a fat dissolver. Wash the surface thoroughly after degreasing.

    How to update a cast-iron bathtub in 2018 - update a cast-iron bathtub - Plumbing


    👍 Bathroom enamel renovation. At the moment, a cast-iron bath has no competitors - it keeps heat well, does not make noise, it is very difficult to deform it.

How to restore an old cast iron bath

Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties and rather tangible financial costs. That is why most of those who started a repair (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat look again. How to restore an old cast-iron bath - know, of course, the masters of this field. But it is quite possible to do most of the work yourself.

How to restore an old cast iron bath

When is it time to refurbish a bath?

A cast-iron bath is a standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. No wonder it is advised to install products from this alloy in apartments. In many houses built back in the Soviet Union, just such bathtubs were installed. And such baths are used to this day. Also, a cast-iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bath. Yes, and it is pleasant to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.

Cast iron bath retains heat longer

Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast-iron bath is no exception. At the same time, it is not she herself that deteriorates, but the coating - enamel, with which the structure was covered at the factory. And this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance is deteriorating.

On a note! Cast iron bathtubs are enameled during production after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain a high-quality coupling of the base with the coating.

Cast iron tub is strong and durable

Here are some signs that it's time to upgrade your bathtub.

  1. Roughness of the inner surface. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on a pumice stone resembling the touch.
  2. Bathtub cleaning is getting harder. The reason is the very rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer slides easily and pleasantly. Cleaning a bathtub takes a lot of work.
  3. Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to the loss of smoothness.. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed at all.
  4. The appearance of chips and cracks on the enamel surface.

It's time for a bathroom refurbishment

Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that the enamel paint protects the cast iron from the effects of water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing. In places of chips, rust forms quite quickly and gradually begins to spread throughout the structure right under the enamel.

Chip in cast iron bath

It is these signs that inform the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest”. But do not rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bath can be reanimated! And for this, there are three fairly simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive ways - this is the use of an acrylic liner, the “filling bath” technique and enamel renewal.

Three ways to update your bath

All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it is worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.

Cast iron bathtub before and after restoration

We paint the bath

Self-enamelling or, more simply, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compositions in order to renew the coating is one of the oldest restoration methods that has already been tested by time.

The work is carried out using a brush and special restoration kits, which include enamel and a hardener for it, and the kit can also contain colors of various colors that will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme of the interior. By the way, such coloring pigments can be bought independently, and then simply added to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.

The paint is applied to the surface of the bath, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to grind the walls with a grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).

Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well warmed up. This can be done with a hair dryer or by typing hot water into it. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be well dried. Otherwise, the paint will not lay down as it should.

It is most convenient to work with a brush, but there are also those compounds that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with a small paint roller. There are restorative compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, therefore streaks may remain. By the way, some formulations, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional sets.

Using a small roller

Attention! All compounds used for enameling baths are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work with a respirator and rubberized gloves. You should also ensure good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.

It will take about a week to completely restore the bath in this way. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be well dried before applying the next.

How to restore an old cast iron bath - 3 best ways and step by step instructions!


Learn how to restore an old cast-iron bath with your own hands! Overview of methods, detailed step-by-step instructions, useful tips, photos + videos.

How to Renovate an Old Cast Iron Bath: A Comparative Review of the 3 Best Ways

Sooner or later, the enamel of any bath becomes thinner, indelible rusty stains appear on it, and its owner states with chagrin that it is time to change the equipment. This difficult procedure is very time consuming, so many are trying to figure out how to update an old cast-iron bathtub and whether it is even possible. Despite the fact that the appearance of such a device leaves much to be desired, the design fully retains all its performance characteristics. Therefore, the restoration should consist only in the application of a new enamel coating. Modern technology makes it possible.

Should old equipment be restored?

The most obvious solution is to replace the plumbing fixtures. Let's try to figure out how much such an event will cost. To the cost of the simplest bath, we add the cost of transporting it, lifting the device to the floor, if necessary. In addition, a certain amount will be required to pay for the dismantling of old equipment and the installation of new ones. At the lowest prices, all this will require about 12,000 rubles. This is only in the case when the wall and floor covering will not be damaged during installation work. Otherwise, you will also have to pay for a partial bathroom renovation.

Dismantling the old and installing a new bath is a troublesome and costly undertaking. If the enamel of the equipment has become thinner or washed off, and the device itself is still in good condition, it is worth considering restoration

Thus, for a fairly large amount, we get a modest result, since the cost of the cheapest bathtub was included in the calculation. If you want a more convenient or high-quality design, you will have to increase the estimated expense item. Not everyone can afford such costs, so they want to restore their cast-iron bath. This is a cheaper and more efficient solution.

However, it is very important to correctly choose the method of restoration. There are only three of them:

  • acrylic bathtub;
  • applying a new layer of enamel to the surface of the device;
  • installation of an acrylic liner.

Let's consider each method in more detail.

What types of restoration are there?

Option #1 - acrylic coating

Restoring a cast-iron bath by pouring acrylic is considered one of the easiest. This is a fairly new method that has managed to gain popularity among consumers. It consists in applying a liquid acrylic solution by pouring onto the surface of the equipment. Its advantages include:

  • Durability. The coating obtained in this way, provided that it is correctly applied, retains its properties for about 8-15 years. This is due to the fact that acrylic is applied in a fairly thick layer of about 6 mm.
  • Smooth glossy finish. The composition is quite thick. It spreads well over the surface of the device, filling possible irregularities, forming an almost perfectly even and smooth plane.
  • Relative simplicity and high speed of applying liquid acrylic.
  • The absence of an unpleasant odor, which allows you to work even in homes where allergy sufferers, children and the elderly live.

There are also disadvantages of the method. Among them is the drying time of the composition. This usually takes about three days, during which it is not recommended to even approach the device. Since debris, dust particles or water accidentally falling on a drying surface can ruin it.

Despite the apparent simplicity of applying acrylic by pouring, this is a rather complicated method of restoration. Requires certain skills to work with the composition

Another negative point is the relatively high cost. It is higher than that of enamel. However, such a price is fully justified by a longer service life and good quality of the coating.

Option # 2 - self-enamelling

The oldest way of restoration. It remotely resembles painting, but you need to clearly understand that special enamel is applied in this case. It is she who needs to be chosen, wondering how to paint a cast-iron bath. There are two types of such compositions: for professional application and for independent. The first ones are very liquid and require laying in several layers. This is a rather complicated procedure. The second ones are thicker and, accordingly, easier to apply.

Properly selected composition with the help of a roller, and more often a brush, is placed on the prepared surface of the equipment. Advantages of this method:

  • The cheapest restoration option.
  • There is no need for dismantling and subsequent installation of the drain and overflow.
  • Suitable for both cast iron and steel bathtubs.

Enameling has many more disadvantages:

  • The service life of the new enamel is about 5 years.
  • The composition applied to the surface of the equipment dries for quite a long time - about 5-7 days.
  • The coating is hard, respectively, very sensitive to shock. Over time, chips may appear.
  • The enamel is applied in a fairly thin layer, so it is not able to cover various surface irregularities such as dents, chips, etc.
  • Over time, the epoxy coating will definitely turn yellow.

You need to understand that the enamel obtained as a result of restoration is seriously different from the one that was originally applied to the equipment.

Cold enameling is the cheapest and easiest way to restore. It resembles painting the surface with a special compound.

In order for the enamel to last as long as possible, simple rules should be followed. For example, to clean an updated cast-iron bathtub, you will need not an abrasive powder, but a mild soapy solution. Otherwise, the enamel will be damaged. The appliance must be protected from impacts, especially with sharp objects, and do not pour too hot water into it. When filling the container, you should first open the tap with cold water and only then with hot water.

Option #3 - Bath to Bath Method

This is the name of the restoration method, which consists in installing an acrylic liner inside the old structure, completely repeating its contours. The insert is mounted on a special adhesive foam. With competently carried out work, the service life of the bath after restoration is about 15 years. The main advantages of the method:

  • Durability of the new coating. Acrylic is much stronger than enamel.
  • A flat surface that hides all the defects of the old design.
  • The surface will not yellow over time.
  • A successful combination of the advantages of acrylic and cast iron baths.

The disadvantages of the method can be considered the need to dismantle the drain siphon and the prohibition on installing the insert in thin structures, which are called "light cast iron" or "thin cast iron". This is due to the fact that the equipment can sag and the adhesive layer that secures the liner will be broken. The “bath to bath” method is very demanding on the quality of materials. Using an insert of poor quality or inappropriate glue will not succeed in restoring the bath.

Installing an acrylic liner is a simple and effective restoration method. Particular attention should be paid to the size of the insert. It should fit perfectly in the bath.

All three methods require preparing the equipment for the upgrade. This stage usually includes cleaning the cast iron bath of dirt and grease. Degreasing is done with oxalic acid or baking soda. All defects are carefully cleaned, so that the surface is even. Then grinding is carried out. The result should be a rough surface. When applied to it with the desired composition, adhesion with it will be maximum.

To restore or not - objective conclusions

The decision to restore or replace an old bath, of course, will be made by its owner. However, you need to know that if you correctly carry out restoration work and use only high-quality materials, the updated bathtub will last a long time. It may be worth entrusting this task to experienced professionals with a good reputation. Then for relatively little money you can get an excellent result.

How to update (restore) an old cast-iron bath, how to paint?


The problem of how to update an old cast-iron bath worries many. Let's consider three available methods of restoration, their main advantages and significant disadvantages.

How to restore a bath yourself?

The bath is one of the most important places in the house. Many people will say with confidence that this is a kind of relaxation room. It is here that there is such a rare opportunity to relax and indulge in a bubble bath with marvelous aromas and warm, pleasant water. But what if, over time, the appearance of the bathroom only depresses? Over the years, everything becomes unusable, and therefore various cracks, peeling of enamel, rust and other unpleasant phenomena can appear here.

Over time, the bath loses its former appearance, cracks and rust appear, but you can save on buying a new one and restore it yourself at home.

However, do not rush to seek expensive professional help. There are ways to fix the situation with your own hands, moreover, at minimal cost. ?

Bathtub enameling at home

It is very often necessary to reanimate a cast-iron bathtub, since for many years it has been considered the most common option. The cast-iron bath has earned its popularity due to its strength, durability and low susceptibility to corrosion, which cannot be said about modern materials. In addition, cast iron is practical, and its price is an excellent investment that will definitely not make you regret it.

But still, the enamel of the bath turns yellow over time, begins to crack. In a word, defects appear that significantly impair both the aesthetic appearance and some practical functions. You can fix this at home. There are two ways that can help restore an old bath with your own hands. And here is the first of them.

In order to restore the bath in the first way, you will need the following components:

  • a special kit for the restoration of a cast-iron bath (it is sold in specialized hardware stores, and therefore it will not be difficult to find it);
  • putty knife;
  • sandpaper;
  • any cleaning powder of abrasive texture;
  • alcohol or vodka.

Before enamelling, it is necessary to remove everything that is cracked and split with a spatula, then an abrasive powder is applied, and additional cleaning is performed with sandpaper.

How to start restoration? First you need to carefully clean the old enameled bath, that is, remove everything that is cracked, split. This is necessary in order to level the old surface as much as possible and prepare it for further processing. So, with a spatula, you need to scrape off everything that has broken off and cracked. Then the abrasive powder is applied. With the help of sandpaper, additional cleaning is performed. After that, all excess must be removed, the powder washed off, and the bath degreased. For this, alcohol is useful.

Now you need to draw hot water into the bath and leave it there for half an hour. After this time, the water descends, and the container itself is wiped dry.

The bathtub restoration kit includes a special primer. It must be applied to the surface of the bath inside, wait until it dries. Now it's time for the enamel to be applied. As a rule, in the kit it is already mixed with a hardener. If it's not, then you need to do it.

Enamel is applied in about 3-5 layers. In this case, each layer must be given time to dry, and only after that apply the next one. Thinner must be added to the last layer so that the surface of the bath acquires a glossy appearance. After about a week, the enamel dries completely. Until this time, you can not use the bathroom, otherwise all the work will go down the drain.

Inserting an acrylic liner into a cast iron bath

First you need to measure the parameters of the bath in order to know the size of the acrylic liner.

There is another way to update the old bath yourself. This is an even easier way to restore than the one above. This will require quite a bit:

  • special acrylic liner (sold in hardware stores);
  • roulette;
  • sealant.

First you need to very accurately measure the parameters of the bath, based on which the size of the acrylic liner will be selected. Before carrying out this method of updating the bath, it is worth doing the previously mentioned cleaning. This is necessary for better adhesion of the liner and the existing surface. Yes, and no one needs various contaminants and microbes, let it be clean under the liner.

Next, a special sealant is applied to the liner and to the surface of the bath. After that, the liner is firmly attached to the surface. To do this, you need to draw hot water into it and leave it like that for about a knock. After that, the water is drained. The bath is ready to use!

In such simple ways, you can give a second life to a cast-iron bath, update it and make it look attractive. This does not require a lot of time, effort and financial costs. All this is done easily and simply at home. You can restore, update the bath with your own hands today!

How to update a cast-iron bath at home: ways


How to update a cast-iron bath at home? This can be easily and simply done at home. Enameling and inserting an acrylic liner are the most common methods.

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