How to fix drywall to wooden blocks. How to fix drywall to a wooden wall without profiles on self-tapping screws? Wooden blocks for drywall

If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the inter-wall space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of operation (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. Wood is prone to rapid decay, danger of damage by insects, this material is a fire hazard: therefore, if you want your structure to last for a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to special processing, in the form of impregnation.

Installation of a partition on a wooden frame

In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in mounting such a frame can arise if you are dealing with an uneven wall. In this case, adjusting the structure in one plane, you will either have to put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the bar thickness in places where the wall plane protrudes.

Finished wooden cladding frame

But first things first.

First of all, we make a wall sag. To do this, using a system of plumb lines, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
dowel diameter and length. The dowel is carefully hammered into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole for a screw in a beam in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.

Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply the beam to the wall and first drill a hole in the beam for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the beam, it marks exactly the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for this bar are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the bar is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are mounting a massive beam, then you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. True, while doing this you should use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.

Laying soundproofing material in the crate space

In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of large voids. In places where an increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are required. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal drywall joints are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are sheathed around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all the outer sides of the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to place additional horizontal bars above and below, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now apply the rest of the crate.

Finished wooden frame with mineral wool insulation

The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.

You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.

It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the intra-wall space with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the crate, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.

Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame

Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. Screws are screwed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of effort applied, avoiding thread breakage - turning the screw.

To work with drywall sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use ecological material - wood. Drywall on a wooden frame is mounted in the case of 100% certainty that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated from pests.

The tree tends to change its size with sudden changes in temperature, with high humidity. When sheathing the frame with drywall, during its finishing, the wood frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for drywall is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave the space of the room.

Very often, a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. With proper treatment of wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling (wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

1. Wood quality.
2. Room humidity.
3. Wood processing.

The tree "breathes", so it is likely that the drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to the wooden base of the ceiling, you should carefully consider this step.

For greater confidence in the guarantee of a wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink in dry and hot air.

In dry rooms, it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame sheathed with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and material in the work

To work with a wooden beam, tools and materials are needed, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

1. Ordinary hammer.
2. A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
3. Construction knife and blade set.
4. Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
5. Saw.
6. Meter or tape measure.
7. Ruler and pencil.
8. Laser level or normal.
9. Dowels, wood screws and ordinary screws.

• Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
• Primer, preferably with additives.
• Insulating material - polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
• Putty, reinforced tape.
• Roller, brush.
• A set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is needles.

Read also

Fixing heavy objects to drywall

In order for the tree not to succumb to the influence of external factors, and also so that pests do not start, wooden bars should be treated:

• Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deep into the tissues of the tree. Does not contain impurities toxic to humans, does not smell;
• Fluorosilicic sodium. Soda ash is added.

It is forbidden to process a tree for a dwelling with such means: coal, slate substances. For humans, these drugs are dangerous. Before starting the installation of the frame, the tree should be in the room for several days.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden bars, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

A very important point is the preparation of the surface and the identification of wet spots. The wall must be dry and even.

markup

Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future design:

• measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
• using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
• all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, on paper, and on the wall, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn, along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
• fixing points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing made and the markings applied, the frame will turn out to be even and rigid (without movements and vibrations).

Wooden frame assembly

Before you start fixing the wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to use plumb lines to beat off points on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

Read also

Required distance between profiles under drywall

Each step taken in the manufacture of the frame should be checked with a level and compared with plumb lines. The entire structure should be checked for the quality of rigidity, the “floating” structure is unreliable and will not last long.

Fastening drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install drywall on a wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 30 cm.

The joints of the sheets horizontally should be in a checkerboard pattern, that is, one sheet is even, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut-off GKL bar should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. The edge of the drywall sheet should be exactly along the wooden beam.

Finishing

After the step of sheathing the GKL of the wooden structure, the next step is the finishing of the GKL. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made during plasterboard sheathing, then grooves should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets, with a depth of about 0.5–0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and treated with a primer. For such work, a brush is suitable. The primer must be completely dry before proceeding with gluing with reinforced tape and sealing putty.

Putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the attachment points. After the putty has dried, all excess pebbles-stripes are removed with sandpaper. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the GCR.

After puttying the surface, as well as complete drying, the entire surface should be rubbed with sandpaper.

Now the plasterboard wall based on a wooden frame is completely ready for further decoration.

Working with GCR, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders prefer frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Drywall finishing of a wooden house

Some prefer to use wooden floors because of the environmental friendliness of the material, despite the shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, susceptibility to climatic influences and combustibility. Special processing will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame for drywall, you should know the important points that ensure reliability.

For the construction of a partition with their own hands, they use beams of coniferous trees with various section sizes, the choice of which depends on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition being erected.

The main requirements, under which the design will last longer:

• The humidity level in the room is less than or equal to 18%;
• For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the crate is 6x4 cm;
• For partitions over 3 m - crate and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
• The choice of drywall depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the drywall;
• Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
• Processing that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
• Fastenings are carried out using nails, screws, spikes. Using the latest type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
• For sound insulation use mineral wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm and not more than 6 cm;
• The thickness of the new partition with the highest value of 132 mm and the lowest value of 85 mm;
• The calculation of the insulation index is based on the selected thickness of the partition. It varies between 41 - 51.

Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will acclimatize.

Chemical treatment is no less important stage than fire fighting. It is aimed at a productive struggle with a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

• Mold and fungus render the lumber used unusable, which is further fraught with destruction;
• Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
• Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna make the material unusable;
• Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to scare them away.

Antiseptics are a variety of chemical compositions. Due to efficiency, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to penetrate deeper. The indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution, it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into a pure composition of sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential areas. This is:

• Anthracene oils;
• Shale;
• Carboniferous;
• Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.

Partition frame assembly

Installation begins with tracing - markup. It is applied to the floors used for the construction - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured on which the partition will be placed. From the intended line, the width of the GKL used is additionally measured.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, it is easy to do it yourself using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is hammered, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point, where the plumb line points, a mark is made. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after drawing the perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.

Frame and features of its installation

Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally arranged bars and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, it's screws and dowels. The frame is fastened with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral bars. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), solid bars must be on its sides. Holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.

Shaping the future door

After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for the work to be done with your own hands, follow the sequence of actions:

• Risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the installed door. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
• The risers are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
• The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a docking point for the GKL and give greater rigidity.

Final stage of work

Installation assumes the presence of a step between the racks of 60 cm, at least. If the size of the drywall is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal jumpers are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

Determining the location of the vertical jumper (above the door frame) is easy. It is enough to attach the installed GKL and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.

For people who do the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the bars with metal plates and corners that are used in the assembly of truss systems. They are reliable and withstand heavy loads.

Observe the horizontal and vertical jumpers and racks. To determine them, use the level. When installing the racks with your own hands, they are placed so that the maximum number of whole sheets of drywall is attached to the wall. This saves material and time.

It is easy to assemble such a wooden structure with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of cladding the GKL of a wooden frame is similar to that in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and see the truth of these words.

For the construction of wooden partitions, high quality lumber is used.

Insulation needed

If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the craftsmen advise to insulate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with sheets of gypsum plasterboard on one side of the wooden structure. Foam materials or mineral wool are most often used.

Doing this step with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are fixed to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.

In contact with

There are several ways to create even walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride yourself by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• building level or plumb;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with sufficient precision to be used to determine the right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are built to redevelop an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: GKL are quite light, the construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

Pine species are often used as the material for the manufacture of a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?

The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the strapping. The bars are fastened in the following order: ceiling-half-wall. If there are wooden floors in the room, then it is easy to fix the bars with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then it will be a little more difficult to fix. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.

Fastening is recommended to start from the ceiling, having previously marked the place of the future partition. Once the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can mark the floor and continue mounting. It is important to make the markup correctly, you can use a level or a laser level.

When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After the floor beam is fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you are convinced of the accuracy of the fasteners, you can proceed to fastening the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling with the floor vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is on the vertical racks that the main load will fall, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you begin to strengthen the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.

If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials (cellular concrete, drywall, and so on), you need the largest dowels. It is allowed to use both dowel nails and special dowels. A variant of the following fastening is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can subsequently screw screws or hammer nails.

Another way to attach the strapping: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and fasten the bars with them. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.

Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to the installation of racks. Usually the distance between the racks is 60 cm, which is very convenient - later the GKL of standard width (120 cm) can be fixed on 2 racks, which facilitates the installation of drywall.

Installation of racks is carried out using wooden bars, screwed to the rack and strapping with screws. You can mount racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use a tin box.

Partition wall insulation: the nuances

Sometimes you can’t do without additional insulation in a building, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulating materials is carried out when plasterboard sheathing is made on one side of the wooden frame. Mineral wool and foam materials are considered the optimal insulation material.

Insulation is quite easy to perform, since the dimensions of the distance between the racks and materials are the same. It remains only to lay the material and fix it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be carried out on the inside of an already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.

Often, in the process of facing the second side with plates, a problem arises on the racks in the form of cracks. This is due to the large number of screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the plates on the walls are made from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd on the right).

It is important to remember that a small gap of 1-2 cm must be left between the ceiling and the top of the drywall. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed with a simple plinth.

Extended baffle

There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double wooden frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition are that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. A wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the sheathing is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install a battery, then it should not be installed in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the ventilation holes, then they need to be closed with plastic bars. It must be remembered that if you install a battery, then it is impossible to insulate the partition with foam rubber or foam. Mineral wool will perfectly cope with the task. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.

Mounting on an uneven wall

Not always the room can differ in perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. It’s worth starting with identifying irregularities: the beam is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the markings for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack bar must be pressed against the wall vertically and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical bars will be attached to it further. To align the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.

You can do the installation of drywall with your own hands, having an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Before the process, you need to make all the necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on the entire set of material and tools that you need. For example:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• drill;
• level.

But the most basic, perhaps, moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.