How to get rid of the emulsion in the engine. How to wash water-based paint from different surfaces

Many believe that the task of the cooling system directly follows from its name - to cool the engine. In fact, this is not entirely true - it must maintain the operating temperature of the engine, which often fluctuates around 90 degrees.

That is, the system should not only cool the motor, but also work so that it warms up to the optimum temperature as quickly as possible. To do this, the system is divided into two parts, called the small and large circle of circulation.

When the engine is started, the coolant begins to drive in a small circle, closely rotating around the cylinders and circulating through the stove radiator. When the motor reaches its operating temperature range, the task of the cooling system becomes to keep it and prevent overheating, for which the bypass valve - aka the thermostat, lets the coolant in a larger circle, through the radiator.

This is, briefly, the theory of operation of the cooling system. During operation, it gradually becomes contaminated with various particles of debris, metal and the like, tubes are oxidized, hoses are clogged. On a good note, the system should be flushed with distilled water (ordinary tap water contains salts and fluorine) every time the antifreeze is changed. There are several ways to flush the engine cooling system, which use different means.

But the real headache comes when the SOD (engine cooling system) becomes clogged with emulsion. This viscous rubbish does not even resemble antifreeze either in color (often cream or white), or in fluidity, or in characteristics. Of course, it does not function as a coolant, and as a result, the engine starts to overheat.

Where does the emulsion come from? This is the result of mixing antifreeze and engine oil which, of course, are not designed for this. Oil can be combined with coolant due to breakdown of the cylinder head gasket (cylinder head) or heat exchanger.

Flushing the cooling system from the emulsion is not as easy as with a conventional flush. This substance leaves the SOD with great reluctance and plain water will not help here. Ordinary cleaners don't do much either, although some Fairy diluted in cold water may help a little.

You can also use special flushing agents that can be found at any auto chemical store. But, as practice shows, the simplest and most an effective way to get rid of the emulsion is diesel fuel. It perfectly dilutes the dense substance of the emulsion into flowing “water”, which is easy to wash out of the system.

Of course, after removing the emulsion, the cooling system should be flushed with conventional means, first with the same Fairy, and then with distilled water.

Continuing the theme of flushing the engine and its systems, it should be noted that during operation it is often necessary to flush. This flushing of the oil system may be required for a variety of reasons, from switching to a different type of engine oil to emergency malfunctions.

As a rule, the reason for the immediate flushing of the lubrication system is a hit, as a result of which. Even taking into account the fact that motor oil itself has a whole package of not only protective, but also detergent and dispersant components, these properties may not be enough.

In other words, after filling, fresh oil is simply not able to qualitatively wash the surfaces of parts and channels in the engine from various deposits, sediment and other by-products that form after mixing with the coolant.

Next, we will talk about what to do after antifreeze has been detected in the engine lubrication system, how to flush the engine after eliminating the root cause of the malfunction, and how to flush the engine from the emulsion or its residue.

Read in this article

Flushing the engine oil system: when needed

So, antifreeze or antifreeze can enter the lubrication system for various reasons, but damage is most often the culprit. Rarely formed. In any case, the result of mixing oil and coolant is an emulsion.

This phenomenon is very dangerous for the motor, since the lubricant loses its properties, wear increases significantly, and other elements and assemblies in. Moreover, water and ethylene glycol, mixed in certain proportions and, in fact, representing the coolant, after getting into the oil, cause various contaminants to coagulate.

Simply put, the dirt in the lubrication system literally sticks together. Additives in oil and antifreeze after mixing react and quickly decompose, the oil immediately oxidizes, etc. Large "lumps" consisting of deposits can even clog the oil receiver filter screen, as a result it begins.

At the same time, it is important to take into account that, for example, after replacing the cylinder head gasket, it will not be possible to completely drain the “working out” from the motor. This means that filling in a new portion of fresh lubricant, the lubricant will also mix with the remnants of the emulsion, unwanted deposits will still form in the oil channels and on the internal surfaces of the engine.

If the engine is not additionally flushed, a similar situation will be repeated for at least another 2-3 replacements. We also note that similar recommendations also apply when, for some reason, the oil change interval was violated (for example, the lubricant was replaced not after 10 thousand km, but after 15 thousand). Also, flushing is recommended, if necessary, add third-party oil when necessary, etc.

At the same time, it may be necessary to flush the engine if the owner has purchased a used used car, and the service history of a particular car is unknown or questionable. It often happens that after an oil change on such a machine, (literally after 50-100 km. Run).

Finally, it is also worth highlighting the possible filling of low-grade oil into the engine. Among motor oils, unfortunately,. Naturally, after discovering this fact, it is necessary to remove the surrogate from the internal combustion engine, then the engine must be flushed without fail.

A counterfeit product is usually indicated by a strong and rapid blackening of the lubricant, an unpleasant pungent odor, the appearance of black deposits under the valve covers, turbidity of the oil, a significant change in its viscosity for no apparent reason, an increase in lubricant consumption, etc.

How to flush the engine from emulsion, dirt and deposits

It is quite obvious that if you need to wash the engine from the inside, then you need a good flush for the engine. A large number of various compositions are on sale.

In practice, all products can be divided into two groups:

• additives in mining;

At the same time, choosing the best engine flushing agent is not so simple. First of all, you need to start from a specific situation. If you just need to flush the lubrication system before changing the oil, and we are not talking about removing emulsion residues or a counterfeit product, then the usual “five minutes” may be quite enough.

The only thing is that this method should be used with caution on older motors. The fact is that on long runs the unit will definitely be contaminated, while the “five-minutes” are very aggressive and separate the accumulated deposits in the sump, but do not dissolve them. Such deposits may well clog the oil receiver with all the ensuing consequences.

It should also be remembered that quick flushes into oil can also have a negative effect on gaskets, oil seals and other seals. Cases have been noted when, after applying oil flushes, the engine began to leak.

• In case of more serious contamination, it is better to use ready-made flushing oils that are filled into the engine in full instead of the base oil. Depending on the type of such a flushing composition, the unit must either work only at idle, or short-term driving is allowed with minimal loads on the internal combustion engine.

Such washing is less aggressive to rubber seals compared to the "five-minute" ones, and also washes dirt and deposits more thoroughly. We also note that flushing oils are synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral, and are also universal. In other words, they can be used both in gasoline and.

At the same time, the risk of “clogging” the channels and filters (for example, in the oil receiver mesh) with muddy dirt is still present, but it is not so high compared to a quick flush into engine oil.

First of all, before filling in a new lubricant, it is important to remove the old oil from the engine in a quality manner. In other words, you need to try to merge as much as possible.

Also, after flushing the engine, if possible, you should also get rid of the maximum amount of flushing oil so that the residues are mixed in a minimum amount with fresh grease.

To do this, it is better to travel a little by car, warming up the engine in motion. Only after that the car is installed horizontally on a flat area, then the drain plug is unscrewed. By the way, the grease should drain by gravity. It is not recommended to use other methods of draining and pumping out the oil (for example, vacuum suction through the oil filler neck, etc.).

We also note that even before the start of flushing, regardless of the flushing agent, it is necessary. As part of the flush, you can put the simplest and cheapest.

If this is not done, the flushing composition will dissolve the dirt in the old filter, and then sour deposits from other areas will be added to this. As a result, the throughput of the filter will be greatly reduced, the bypass valve will open and contaminants can get back into the engine.

Having decided on what you can flush the engine with when changing the oil, it is important to understand that before using flushing oil or "five minutes" you need to carefully study the instructions. It is strongly recommended to follow all instructions of the manufacturer of a particular composition.

Also, flushing should not be overdone in the engine, load the engine when driving on flushing oil, accelerate at idle or use quick flushes into oil, etc. Also, after applying flushing fluids and pouring fresh oil, it is better to reduce the interval for its subsequent replacement by 30-50%.

This approach eliminates the possibility of increased wear of the internal combustion engine as a result of the loss of useful properties of the new oil after contact with the remnants of the previously used flush.

Read also

How to flush the engine yourself with diesel fuel or kerosene before changing the engine oil. Advantages and disadvantages of cleaning, features of washing the engine with diesel fuel.

Interior decoration is not a simple building process. It involves a lot of effort in its implementation. Today, people want to carry out repairs on their own to save money, and sometimes to show their talent. This fact is especially important for owners who are engaged in painting their house or apartment.

Stains of water-based paint - a common problem after repair

One of the favorite means of repair is water-based paint - this is a sought-after, high-quality and promising material. Water-based paint - in the shortest possible time will allow you to give the walls and ceiling a finished, neat look. Sometimes after repair stains remain after painting on furniture, clothes, this article is devoted to the problem of how to wash water-based paint after repair.

Water based paint

When removing a stain, you need to understand the composition of the paint. Easily washable is paint based on polyvinyl acetate or simply PVA, a soapy solution and a sponge are enough to remove the stain, and paint stains of this type can be easily removed from clothes.

Acrylic water-based paint is wear-resistant to water and powders; to remove it from a hard surface, you will need a spatula or a sharp object for mechanical action and rubbing. If the stain turned out to be on things, we figure out which fabric base is stained:

1. Dense fabric, for example denim - this type of fabric is resistant to abrasion, you can try to remove the stain with a chemical solvent: white spirit or acetone, then wash it in the washing machine in the usual way.
2. A thin, lightweight fabric without impurities of synthetic fibers, an example of such a fabric can be chintz - the paint can be removed from it by mechanical erasing with gasoline, it is also possible to use chemical solvents, but paper is placed under the fabric when removing the paint, and then it must be washed using detergents. funds.
3. Fabric based on polyester or other synthetic fibers. To remove water-based paint stains at home from this type of fabric, do not use any solvents, as these agents affect the composition of the fabric. Traces from this type of clothing can be removed with sunflower oil. Paper is again placed under the clothes, and the stains are wiped off with cotton pads dipped in sunflower oil. You should be patient, as the work is time-consuming and troublesome, the paint will be difficult to leave.

These methods will help remove only fresh pollution. To remove dried traces of PVA-based water-based paint, it is necessary to moisten it with plenty of water to soften the dried layers of paint, and then scrub it with a brush, the clothes must first be soaked and washed in the usual way.

Dried stains of paint should be wetted with water and scrubbed with a brush.

Other types of paints

Gouache, watercolor

Dyes of this type are water-soluble and can be easily washed at home. Freshly soiled items can be washed with laundry soap in cold water, and then continue to remove stains with a regular machine wash on the appropriate cycle for the type of fabric.

To remove gouache stains with an adhesive or oil base, prepare a solution of ammonia and oxalic acid in proportions of 1: 1, in which clothes are soaked for 30 minutes.

Oil paints

When hardening, oil paints form a dense crust on the surface, which can be carefully removed. We soften small grains of paint with sunflower or olive oil and remove the stain. Grease stains left after the oil are not difficult to wash off in boiling water with dish detergent, it perfectly breaks down fats and there will be no trace of the stain.

acrylic paint

Acrylic paint stains are one of the most difficult to remove, in many cases a stained item can no longer be saved. If the stain is fresh, you can prepare a solution of ammonia, vinegar and salt, take the ingredients at the rate of 1:1:1, apply this mixture to the stained area and leave for fifteen minutes until the solution works, then wash it in the usual way.

Acrylic paint should be rubbed with a mixture of ammonia, vinegar and salt

Conclusion

The beauty of freshly painted walls is sometimes not worth an expensive and beloved thing, therefore, before painting, it is better to use old clothes that, in extreme cases, it will not be a pity to throw away. If the trouble has not passed, and the spots flaunt on a brand new little thing, then be careful with chemical solvents, follow the instructions for use.

Do not use them near fire. In case of contact with eyes, skin, rinse with plenty of water.

Stains that have not been removed at home can be removed using the services of dry cleaning, where the paint is removed competently and without harm to the fabric.

Water-based paints are a high-quality material that is used in interior decoration. It is odorless, absolutely harmless, dries quickly. Despite the fact that the basis of the mixture is water, the material is very resistant to moisture. Therefore, the question arises, how to remove water-based paint from the walls?

Is it worth it to remove the old coating

If there are no areas of delamination or swelling on the surface in question, then the water-based paint can not be removed. Removal is necessary in the following cases:

• the presence of exfoliated areas;
• air getting under the paint;
• applying a lighter coating (no matter how many layers, the dark tone will show through and the desired shade will not work);
• if the finishing material used is not compatible with water-based paint.

Before removing a layer, you need to determine what type of mixture it is: for wood, concrete or glass. Based on this, choose the appropriate withdrawal method.

To remove, you will need the following materials:

1. film (polyethylene) and waste paper;
2. container with water;
3. rags;
4. metal spatulas;
5. , for wetting walls;
6. brush with metal teeth;
7. sandpaper;
8. acetone;
9. building solvent;
10. protective clothing: goggles, respirator, gloves, head covering;
11. a small ladder or stepladder.

Before starting work, be sure to prepare the room: cover furniture and decor items with prepared film and waste paper.

Water-based paint can be removed by washing with water, mechanically cleaning the walls, using solvents, using heat treatment.

How to wash off the coating

Water-based paint is advised to be washed off with a soapy solution, which is prepared by dissolving remnants or a little washing powder in warm water. Then it is applied with a roller or sponge on the wall and left for a while to absorb. When the paint layer is sufficiently soaked, it is washed off with a rag, after which the wall is wiped dry. If at the end of the work there are traces of soap on the wall, you need to repeat the procedure again.

It is advised to wet the walls with water in small parts so that it does not have time to dry while you are doing the previous section.

mechanical way

The paint can be removed with a brush or with a grinder.

First method

Before cleaning, the walls are moistened with water using a roller and left to soak for 15 minutes. After that, a spatula cleans off the paint layer, working in one direction. Places where the coating is not removed are treated with a brush with metal teeth.

This method is suitable only for surfaces resistant to mechanical damage.

Second method

The layer is removed very effectively with a grinder. If this is not available, then you can use a drill with a nozzle to remove paint. It comes in the form of a metal crown or a round brush with iron bristles. They can be purchased at a specialized store or in the market.

The use of a grinder is advised for cleaning walls made of wood, less often concrete.

Sequencing:

1. Connect the instrument to the network.
2. Clear walls. You need to move sequentially, processing in small areas.
3. The surface must be wiped with a damp cloth from dust.
4. At the end of the work, the room must be vacuumed, all traces of paint must be removed.
5. Perform wet cleaning and ventilate the room.

Be sure to wear a respirator and goggles because the air will be very dusty.

Solvent use

A large layer of coating or dried old ones can be washed off with products with a high percentage of solvent. Environmentally friendly solvents include formic acid and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of the required product can be calculated based on the average consumption of 1 liter per 5 m². Solvents on a more toxic basis are also commercially available. If you prefer such products, then during use, observe the necessary safety measures.

Action algorithm:

1. Apply with a brush to the surface.
2. Leave for 20 minutes, depending on the recommendations of the instructions.
3. Remove paint from the walls with a spatula.
4. Rinse off the surface to be treated with water or other agent recommended by the manufacturer.

You can wash off the paint with such a solvent from any surface. The main thing is to choose the right tool.

Thermal removal method

This method can only be used if there is a building hair dryer. First, small sections of the walls should be heated until the coating is swollen. Then remove the paint with a spatula. Movements should be progressive and directed in one direction.

Adhering paint must be removed with another spatula. If traces remain on the surface, they must be cleaned with a brush with metal teeth or sandpaper. Upon completion of the work, the room is vacuumed and wet cleaned.

2 videos on cleaning walls from water-based paint

We clean the walls from water emulsion in pictures (30 photos)

Good afternoon. Today we will talk about how to flush the engine cooling system from oil? This is especially true for cars equipped with automatic transmissions and oil-to-salt heat exchangers, since the risk of oil getting into them is much higher. The article discusses working flushing methods, and popular misconceptions.

This article is based on my own experience! All tips in the article are tested in practice!

The main problem when oil enters the coolant is the formation of an emulsion.

It looks like this:

The main difficulty with the emulsion is that it clogs all the hoses, pipes, and the engine starts to overheat. Those. it flows very slowly and does not remove heat, and it is quite difficult to wash it.

Non-working ways to flush the cooling system from oil (popular misconceptions).

Flushing the cooling system with plenty of running water.

We brought the radiator to the garden and flushed it with reverse flow, water from the well. It did nothing, it drives out large drops of oil with water, but the emulsion on the walls is not washed off (cold water cannot soften it). It takes more than one ton of very hot water to completely flush the cooling system from the emulsion.

Hot water is EXPENSIVE, not everyone has access to unlimited free hot water, so we write to non-working methods.

Flushing the cooling system with whey.

I read this method on the Internet and decided to check it out.

The washing procedure is as follows - we drain all the liquid from the cooling system and replace it with whey, in the warm season we ride for 2-3 days, drain the whey, rinse 2-3 times with cold water and fill in antifreeze.

Whey is freely sold in dairy departments.

We tested this method after flushing the cooling system with water more than 10 times, and flushing the radiator with reverse flow.

We also write the method as non-working! No, the serum merged black and it washed out some dirt, but it washes the emulsion no better than water!

Partially working methods for flushing the cooling system.

Flushing the cooling system with FAIRY dishwasher.

The flushing procedure is as follows - fill in the detergent (about a glass of 10 liters), warm up the engine to operating temperature and drain all the liquid from the system.

Repeat if necessary.

At the end of flushing, we flush the cooling system 2-3 times with water, drain everything and fill in antifreeze.

Partially working method The detergent does partially remove the oil emulsion, but it falls off in rather large pieces that do not pass through the radiator cells, thermostat and thin hoses of the cooling system.

I summarize - you can rinse, but the product is not effective enough, it breaks down the emulsion, but it does it in large pieces that do not pass through the radiators.

Flushing the cooling system with automatic powder.

The method is somewhat better than rinsing with a dishwasher (less foam), but fundamentally no different.

The only method of flushing the cooling system that worked was flushing the cooling system with SOIL FUEL (DT).

Desperate to wash the engine of the emulsion, I ventured to flush the cooling system with diesel fuel.

The methodology is as follows:

• Drain all fluid from the bleed system
• We remove the thermostat (otherwise there is a possibility that the large circle will not open and the radiator will remain clogged)
• Fill the entire cooling system with diesel fuel (at a minimum).
• We warm up the car to operating temperature (we stand still, do not drive, warming up without a thermostat will take about 20 minutes)
• We merge everything from the cooling system (I merged black diesel fuel)
• Flush the system with water 2 times
• Pour antifreeze

Many are afraid to do this, fearing the ignition of diesel fuel - nothing will happen to it, do not forget to remove the thermostat, otherwise it will not work to flush the radiator.

Some are afraid for the safety of the nozzles, the nozzles can swell and deteriorate from fatty diesel fuel - this is also nonsense! From an oil emulsion, they will swell much faster.

Methods that have not been tested.

Acid wash.

Here I include washing with carbonic acid (carbonated water), acetic acid, citric acid, it is obvious that these acids will not take an oil emulsion. But it is quite possible to flush the cooling system from scale and dirt.

Washing with soda.

Soda will also not remove the oil emulsion, but aluminum will thank you for it! When flushing the cooling system with soda, it is diluted in a proportion of 100 g / liter.