How suspended ceilings are made. How to make suspended ceilings with your own hands

In Soviet times, floor slabs were generally not laid as evenly as we would like. This problem can be corrected only with the help of the so-called hinged structures. This is indeed the real problem. Such ceilings cannot be fixed by leveling or plastering. If you want to make suspended ceilings on your own, and throughout the apartment and not resort to the help of a construction team, then just read this article to the end.

An uneven surface can create problems not only when gluing wallpaper, but even when painting. Previously, people had to deal with careful leveling of surfaces. This procedure is quite difficult and very dirty. Currently, there is an easy way to get rid of such problems, it is enough to install a false ceiling. On the market today there is a wide variety of materials, as well as designs, to make floors.

Each of them is not a ceiling, but rather a complex system that consists of a large number of elements. These include hidden communications. How to choose the best solution for your home, as well as make a beautiful ceiling, and with your own hands? The very concept of "suspended ceiling" today includes mainly a huge number of different solutions. They are united by only one thing - this is the presence of the so-called metal frame, it is on it that the materials themselves are installed from the outside.

Ceilings are often

• solid;
• modular;
• combined

The following types of materials are ideal for creating a ceiling: stylish plastic panels, lining, drywall. For what reason, in most cases, it is the panels that are chosen, and not the drywall itself? Indeed, you can create a beautiful suspended ceiling from the so-called drywall. To begin with, you will have to order a truck to bring all the materials, and then do the finishing. The sheets themselves are covered with a mesh, applied, and then the putty is leveled, stained. Of course, such a ceiling will look attractive, however, plastic panels are much easier to work with.

What are the benefits of a ceiling made of panels?

Let's talk about the benefits of stylish plastic. It is absolutely not afraid of water, so it can be used in places with high humidity. The panels will not deform from moisture. As soon as the dirt gets on the material, you just need to wipe everything with a damp cloth, but the drywall itself must be repainted. And if they simply flood from above, the panels will not suffer.

If we talk about the so-called pluses of panels made of strong plastic, then we can confidently say that they not only do not get moldy, but they do not need any finishing at all, and if there is an urgent need, they can also be replaced. With the help of such panels, you can close the ceiling, even if it has a large number of irregularities and other possible flaws. It is worth noting that pipes and electrical wiring can also be hidden under the panels themselves, which is very convenient. For the production of panels, as a rule, the so-called polyvinyl chloride is used. It is absolutely safe for your health. It is sometimes used mainly for the manufacture of various plates and other plastic products.

How to install the frame itself?

Immediately before you start marking the frame itself and carry out the installation, it is important to determine the distance directly from the old ceiling to the floor slabs. As soon as you also decide on the height itself, take care of the markup.
Use a level to determine if the ceiling is level. If this is the case, then you can safely do without a frame at all, but simply fix a few battens made of wood directly to the ceiling, then you can nail the panels with brackets. How should the markup be done? Put marks in the corner, for example, down 10 cm from the ceiling itself. Next, a few marks should be put on other walls. This can be done using a water or laser level.

If we talk about the profile, then you can use two types - this is UD, as well as CD. The profile, which is called UD, is attached exclusively to the walls, and the CD is used as a profile. It is important to attach the profile with the help of the so-called dowels, and for the longitudinal one you will have to use metal screws. They also received the name - "fleas".

To thoroughly drill through all the walls for the dowels, either a hammer drill or a quality impact drill must be used. If the profile is already fixed, then you can start installing the longitudinal profile. Do not forget to hide electrical wiring under the frame. In the place where the lamp will be located directly, it is necessary to create conclusions, their length should be about 30 cm from the frame itself. This is for convenience.

The final step will be attaching the panels themselves. All work must begin exclusively from the edges. If we talk about the so-called device of the panels themselves, then one of them has a special spike, and the second has a small groove. For this reason, collecting them is not so difficult. After installing the panels, you will need to glue the cornices, they will be able to hide all the seams located between the walls themselves, as well as plastic.
The profile is easily cut with special scissors. For cutting panels, a construction knife or a hacksaw is ideal. The finished ceiling is wiped quite gently with a damp cloth, and then you can deal with the lamps, fixing them on the ceiling itself. You probably already understood that it is easy to create a ceiling from various plastic panels, it is quite durable. You can forget about repairs in general for 10 years.

Ceiling made of plasterboard

In addition to panels, you can attach drywall sheets to the ceiling. However, please note that only moisture-resistant drywall should be used in the bathroom, it can withstand high humidity. It is more difficult to fix it than panels. It looks attractive, you can even create several levels, if the height of the bathroom or its size allows. Let's get down to business. The frame for a plasterboard ceiling is in some ways similar to the frame required for panels. First you need to attach a profile to the walls. Then it is necessary to insert transverse as well as longitudinal profile options into it, which will be directly held on the so-called suspensions.

On the ceiling itself, all sheets are attached exclusively from the edges, starting from one of the possible walls. Drywall should be attached to the profile. Moreover, it should be remembered that the distance from the center of the profile itself to the walls at the junctions of the sheets themselves must certainly be no more than the width of the sheet. If the distance is more than a meter, then the sheets will simply begin to sag and possibly crack.

The disadvantage of a ceiling made of drywall is the significant weight of the sheets. Mounting a suspended ceiling is quite difficult for this very reason. Even a few square meters can weigh up to 30 kg. Agree, the number is rather big. Without outside help, it is almost impossible to install them, while the likelihood of cracking can be significant. To solve the first problem, you can use the so-called lift.

Ceiling made from lining

In the past few years, the so-called lining has become popular; it is created from various types of wood. Cedar or larch can be used. Wooden lining should be quite durable, as well as strong. She is not afraid of water at all.

Appearance

Naturally, the simplest solution is to install a ceiling with one level. Lamps in this case can be either overhead or even suspended. It is quite possible to paint it in absolutely any shade that you like best. In this case, you will certainly get a fairly high-quality and incredibly simple design. If you are a person with imagination, make a curly ceiling, it can be made of simple drywall. For this purpose, you will need some free time and also a certain skill. However, the result may exceed all your expectations.

Figured ceilings can be mainly made in the form of:

• various geometric shapes, it can even be circles;
• smooth lines, as well as waves;
• colors;
• various butterflies;
• stars.

The so-called cornice, made of high-quality drywall, will look quite harmoniously, and the edges can be illuminated. You can use beautiful lighting. Often, the owners choose either stylish spotlights, or classic chandeliers, or LEDs, as well as fluorescent lamps. Large chandeliers are undesirable. If you want to visually raise the ceiling, then you can use striped materials.

To decorate the ceiling in the living room, most designers recommend using various designs with verified geometric shapes. These can be figures that will emphasize the frame of the base ceiling of your room. You can also use hand painting. This method is not very popular, but it will allow you to make the desire of your beloved baby come true.

False ceiling lighting

To illuminate a large room, it is recommended to use the so-called plasterboard constructions, so-called spotlights must be built into them, which will also have the function of beautiful zonal lighting. In this case, if necessary, you can even adjust the light in each part of your room.

As lighting devices you can use:

• chandeliers;
• Spotlights;

As you already understood, installing a false ceiling is not so difficult. To do this, you need to have only a few skills.

Any overhaul of an apartment or office space begins with ceilings. Dealing with an uneven or rough concrete ceiling can become too time consuming and costly. In addition, it is not possible to guarantee that all deficiencies will be corrected. In this case, a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling can be an excellent solution. Its manufacture cannot be called simple, but subject to the recommendations and rules, it is quite within the power of home craftsmen. In this article, we will tell you in detail how to make false ceilings with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need in your work, and how to perform calculations.

What are suspended ceilings

So, a suspended ceiling is a decorative structure that is fixed on the guide profiles and gives the room an aesthetic appearance, while masking all defects in the draft surface and placed communications or wires, if any. Moreover, the false ceiling plays the role of an insulating and sound-absorbing barrier, which is especially important in multi-storey buildings.

To build a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you must first fix a special frame structure of longitudinal and transverse profiles and suspensions. They will subsequently be attached, in fact, the material of the suspended ceiling. It can be either drywall or special panels.

Please note that there are several varieties of false ceiling. In particular, mesh, lattice, rack, which are also called modular. If drywall is used to sheath the frame, then such a ceiling is called solid. In cases where drywall is fixed directly to the rough ceiling without suspensions, then we are talking about a false ceiling.

Advantages and disadvantages of false ceiling

Naturally, any type of decorative finish has both advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages of suspended ceilings are:

• The ability to hide any imperfections in the draft ceiling - the presence of cracks, cracks, chips and potholes, bumps and level differences.
• Aesthetic appearance - thanks to this decor, the room can be transformed and decorated.
• Great scope for imagination - you can vary the height and levels of ceilings, combine several types of material;
• It is possible to install any type of lighting - both main fixtures and additional lighting, based on the initial project.
• Ensuring high-quality sound insulation and insulation.
• Convenient and effortless care - just wipe off the dust with dry rags.
• A variety of finishes on the ceiling surface.
• It is easy to disguise all communications inside the suspended ceiling structure.

Nevertheless, even such seemingly ideal suspended ceilings in all respects are not without a number of shortcomings.

The most significant among them are:

• The design of the ceiling, as a rule, "steals" about 7-8 cm or more of the height of the room, since it is necessary to fix the frame for its installation.
• Depending on the complexity of the execution and the size of the room, the installation of a false ceiling can take quite a long time - usually several days.
• The cost of acquiring materials for false ceilings can be quite significant, especially if not the simplest and cheapest materials are purchased.
• If any communication lines were drawn above the ceiling, they must be accessed by making a special window.
• Since drywall does not have high moisture resistance, it is not recommended to use such material in rooms with high humidity, for example, bathrooms or bathrooms, pools or baths.

Tools and materials

Before you make a false ceiling with your own hands, you will need to purchase a complete list of materials for the frame, drywall, as well as a finishing option chosen to your liking.

The first step in this case will be a self-assembled suspended ceiling frame. In this case, you need to decide what material it will be made of - wood or metal. If you decide to stay on the wooden version, you will have to purchase bars that will be attached to the ceiling surface on suspensions. If you choose the traditional metal version of the frame, then to create it, you will need to purchase several types of metal profiles.

Please note that profiles and bars can be both basic and load-bearing. In the case of the manufacture of a metal frame, only load-bearing profiles were previously used, but recently there has been a tendency to combine load-bearing and main profiles. As for the wooden bars, they can also be combined so that the final structure does not turn out to be too heavy.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the do-it-yourself false ceiling is assembled from galvanized metal profiles marked PP 60/27 and PNP 28/27. Foreign analogues can be labeled as CD and UD.

In addition, during the installation process, you will need a set of suspensions that are fixed on the ceiling and hold the suspension frame, anchors and dowel-nails, connecting "crabs" for joining jumpers, as well as two types of self-tapping screws - small ones with a drill for metal products and drywall.

The main material used for filing a solid suspended ceiling is drywall.

Depending on the characteristics, there are several types of drywall:

• GKL marking is assigned to the standard material;
• GVKL is the designation of drywall with moisture-resistant qualities;
• GKLO - such drywall contains fiberglass in its composition, therefore it has refractory properties;
• GKVLO marking is assigned to a material that combines both refractory and moisture resistant qualities;
• GVLV is a drywall with the best performance characteristics, of the highest quality, sometimes it is also called a "super sheet".

The most affordable and optimal in terms of weight is the standard drywall marked GKL. It is he who is most often chosen for sheathing ordinary residential premises, which are not subject to increased safety requirements.

The parameters of standard drywall sheets are usually as follows:

• length - 1500-2500 mm;
• width - 600-1200 mm;
• thickness - 9.5 mm.

Before you make a suspended ceiling, you will need to calculate the amount of materials for repair. Numerous online calculators can help with this, however, in practice, it is quite possible to cope with such a task on your own. If you determine the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling and the dimensions of the drywall sheets, you can easily calculate how many sheets will be needed to completely cover the area.

Please note that a plasterboard suspended ceiling will have a fairly large mass. Each 1 m 2 of standard drywall weighs about 13-15 kg, so you should call a helper to equip the ceiling.

It is worth noting the fact that the seams between the drywall sheets will be the weak points of the structure, again due to its significant mass. Subsequently applied plaster may crack in these areas. Therefore, at the stage of finishing these places will need to be given special attention.

To work with suspended ceilings, you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• ladder;
• construction knife;
• level, preferably laser;
• roulette;
• marking pencil.

If you plan to equip a complex lighting system, then all lamps and LED strip must be purchased in advance. In addition, it is important to outline the location of lighting fixtures and lay electrical wires for them even before sheathing the surface with drywall.

Outside, the plasterboard ceiling will need to be ennobled.

For this you will need:

• primer mixture;
• starting and finishing putty;
• putty knife;
• reinforcing mesh to strengthen joints and seams.

The approximate amount of materials for arranging a false ceiling, based on 1 m 2 of drywall, looks like this:

• anchor bolts - 1 pc;
• profiles PP 60/27 or CD - 2.9 m
• profiles PP 28/27 or UD - along the perimeter of drywall;
• sealing tape - along the perimeter of the material;
• direct suspension, rods and suspensions - 1 each;
• metal screws - 2 pieces;
• drywall screws - 23 pieces;
• connecting crabs - 2 pieces;
• profile extensions - 0.2-0.5 units;
• dowels for 1 m profile PP 28/27 - 2 pieces;
• reinforcing mesh - 1.2 m;
• separating tape - along the perimeter of the material.

Please note that before starting work, it is worth planning your actions in detail. Make a detailed step-by-step diagram that you will follow. It will also help in calculating the amount of materials.

We install a single-level ceiling in steps

Let's describe the process of assembling a single-level suspended ceiling with our own hands in a step-by-step instruction. If all materials and tools have already been purchased and prepared, then you can proceed with the installation of the ceiling. However, first you need to remove unnecessary pieces of furniture from the room, or at least cover them if the first option is not possible. After that, you can start marking on the walls and ceiling, as well as mount the fasteners.

Stage 1. We take a tape measure and measure the height of the ceiling in each corner of the room. We find in this way the lowest point - we will start from it.

Stage 2. Lay down 5-8 cm from the corner and put a point in this place. Please note that if there are additional fixtures that require their own wiring, the indent should be made a little more.

Stage 3. In each corner we put down dots that correspond to the level of the first mark.

Stage 4. We connect all the marks with each other in straight lines using a pencil or paint cord.

Stage 5. We take the supporting profiles PP 28/27 (UD) and fasten them to the wall along the drawn lines. First, we apply the profile with the lower edge above the marking line. Then, through the holes in the plank, we put points on the wall, marking the places for drilling. We drill holes in the wall. Pay attention to the profiles themselves. If they do not have prepared holes for fastening on the sides, they must be drilled independently, departing from the edges by 10 cm.

Stage 6. We glue the prepared profiles with sealing tape and fix them to the wall with dowel-nails.

Stage 7. Suspensions will be at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Therefore, on the ceiling you need to draw lines with the specified indent.

Stage 8. Since connecting jumpers will be installed on the profiles approximately every 2.5 m, the suspensions will be fastened in increments of 50 cm. At the same time, to mount the first row of suspensions, we retreat 25 cm from the wall, and the next after another 50 cm, that is 75 cm from the walls. We fix all subsequent rows in increments of 60 cm.

Stage 9. In order for the holes for the suspensions to be in the right places, we apply them to the markings on the ceiling and re-mark the points for drilling the holes. We put anchors in the finished recesses, we fix the suspensions with them so that they do not bend, otherwise the work will be spoiled.

Stage 10. We proceed to the installation of suspensions. If their length does not fit into the parameters of the room, they can either be shortened or lengthened. To increase the length of the profile, you can connect two strips with special devices. It is worth checking that the joints in adjacent rows are spaced apart and near the hangers, otherwise the frame may not support the weight of the drywall. The total length of the profiles in one row should be 1-2 cm less than the size of the ceiling. In this case, each plank should be fastened to the hangers and guides from the corner of the room, using self-tapping screws for this. Lastly, profiles are installed in the central part of the room.

Stage 11. First, we fix two rows of profiles on one side of the ceiling. Then we move on to the opposite wall, where we also fix two rows of profiles. After that, you can go to the central slats.

Stage 12. Using crabs and self-tapping screws, we install jumpers in increments of 2.5 m. They are located in places where the joints between adjacent sheets of drywall will pass.

Stage 13. Finally, we move on to fixing the drywall. We cut the edges with a knife so that we get a small corner. This will improve the adhesion to the putty. If the ends are pasted over from the factory, then leave it as it is.

Stage 14. We fasten the sheet, starting from the corner. We apply the sheet to the profiles with an indent from the wall of 0.5 cm. The heads of the self-tapping screws are slightly deepened into the surface of the drywall so that they do not peek out. The drywall sheets themselves are also laid with an offset so that 4 pieces do not converge at one point.

Finishing

The process of how to assemble a suspended ceiling does not end with the installation of drywall. The entire surface of the ceiling after that still needs to be finalized. Any type of finish to your liking is chosen - simple or textured plaster, painting, wallpapering or other options. However, in any case, it is necessary to treat the surface - putty seams, joints and recesses from self-tapping screws. First, the surface is primed, and then covered with putty.

After the first layer of the starting putty dries, a reinforcing mesh (sickle) is laid at the joints and seams and another layer of the mixture is applied. If the seams between the sheets are too wide, they are filled with putty mixture. In addition, during the grouting process, you will surely notice any flaws on the drywall - scratches, peeled paper, and so on. These defects also need to be laid with a sickle and puttied.

In order for the putty to better adhere to the material, it is better to make the edges of the drywall at the joints slightly rounded. Then the mixture will penetrate as deeply as possible into the space between the sheets. The reinforcing tape and putty layer must be leveled along the thickness of the drywall. This is possible because the sheets are slightly narrower in thickness at the edges so that the reinforcing mesh can be drowned.

If the drywall was cut on its own for mounting on the ceiling, then first the cut edge must be cleaned with a planer or knife at 45 ℃. Thus, a wedge-shaped furrow will be obtained, into which putty and reinforcing tape will freely enter. In this case, the putty will grab the drywall well.

When the entire surface of the drywall is covered with the starting putty and dry, you can apply the final layer of the finishing putty mixture.

Thus, the technology, as suspended ceilings are made, includes surface preparation, wiring for lighting, frame assembly, drywall fixing, lighting installation and surface finishing.

1. Use only good quality materials. So you will provide yourself with a reliable and durable ceiling coating.
2. Don't rush while you work. Make a plan, spend more time marking the surface and calculating, so as not to make mistakes and not run around the shops for the missing materials.
3. Drywall brand GKL should be used only in dry rooms.
4. Level is your best assistant.
5. To additionally soundproof the room, use mineral wool, placing it above the frame.
6. Let the drywall lay flat for a few days before you begin fixing the drywall.

One of the most important issues that arise in the process of repairing a room is the choice of the type of ceiling finish. Today, more and more people are interested in how false ceilings are made. There is nothing complicated in this process, and anyone who knows how to use a drill can easily make the ceiling of their dreams on their own.

Types of suspended ceilings

Before starting work, you need to decide on the appropriate type of ceiling. Mounted structures are divided into the following main types:

• Plasterboard ceilings. The most popular and versatile type. Its widespread use by builders is associated with a large number of advantages: you can give the ceiling any shape, it is easy to implement a multi-level system, drywall is great for decorating additional lighting in the form of diodes, halogens and incandescent lamps. However, such installation is accompanied by a lot of dust and dirt, and it will take a lot of time.
• Stretch. This is the best option for achieving a perfectly even and smooth ceiling surface. The advantages of tension structures include a variety of textures and colors, the ability to place a photograph or drawing on the ceiling, ease of installation, moisture resistance, the absence of dirt and dust during operation, the ability to create original lighting. It should be remembered that the tension structure is easily damaged, so it is better to keep all sharp objects away from it.
• Modular. The plane of these ceilings consists of ready-made modules. It can be tile panels, slats or cassettes. Tiled ceilings are made from mineral fibre, wood and metal, and because of their design, they follow the contours of the room with precision. The rack version is made from rectangular slats with curved edges along the long sides. Outwardly, the slats look like lining. They are attached to the installed metal frame. The rack structure can be installed in an unheated room, since it has good frost resistance. Cassette ceilings are created from metal modules of a square or rectangular shape. Quite small elements are placed in mounting frames, with the help of concave edges around the entire perimeter, the panels are fixed.
• Aluminum. Suspended structures made of such material are of various types: rack, cassette or Grilyato ceilings. The latter is distinguished by its sophistication and high price. The metal surface of the aluminum ceiling reflects electric and natural light well, making the room very light and spacious. In addition, the aluminum suspended structure has good moisture-proof and fire-resistant properties. Such a ceiling will not harm human health, because aluminum is an environmentally friendly material.

How to make a false ceiling with your own hands

Beginning of work

Consider how to make a false ceiling from plasterboard. To begin with, we will prepare the materials and tools that will be needed in the process of work:

1. dowel-nails;
2. suspensions;
3. guide profile;
4. ceiling profile;
5. laser or water level;
6. screwdriver;
7. galvanized screws;
8. jigsaw;
9. pencil;
10. roulette;
11. drywall sheets.

It is necessary to clean the surface of the ceiling from the old coating so that the dirt of the plaster or whitewash does not crumble. To avoid the appearance of unnecessary formations, it is better to treat the ceiling with an antifungal agent. Also at the preparatory stage, you need to take care of the future lighting system. To do this, you need to determine where the corresponding wires will pass and fix them to the ceiling.

Mounting technology

Next, we proceed directly to the installation of the hinged structure. The first stage is markup. First, it is necessary to note the distance at which the false ceiling will be, it should be 10-20 cm. It takes into account that all communications and electrical wiring must be hidden. Using a level (it is better to use a water level), it is necessary to mark the corners in one of the most horizontal planes. According to the mark with a pencil or paint thread, we outline a line around the entire perimeter of the room, starting guides will be installed along it.

Then we take the profile and apply its lower part along the line. Along the marked line, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill at intervals of 50-60 cm under the dowels. For a more stable fixation, the first and last holes are best made at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge. We give the profiles the desired width and length with scissors, then fix them with a screwdriver in pre-prepared holes to the wall.

We proceed to the installation of suspensions. We make markings every 40 cm on the basis of the ceiling along the lines that were drawn along the perpendicular guides. The suspension is fixed strictly in the middle with a dowel.

The next step is to fix the rack profiles. Again, we leave marks along the entire length of the room with a gap of 60 cm. Then, with self-tapping screws, we fix the rack profiles to the installed base strictly according to the marks left. Do-it-yourself installation of the frame ends with fixing the structure with cross-shaped connectors and suspensions. The antennae of the suspensions are bent, taking into account the passage of the profile. After that, we start the profile and attach it with self-tapping screws.

Fixing drywall sheets to the installed frame

After the main frame is ready, it is necessary to attach drywall sheets to it. Before installation, to improve waterproofing, each sheet must be coated with a special primer, first from the ceiling side, and after installation from the back side. In order to provide drywall with "breathing", you need to step back a few millimeters from the edges. It is necessary to fasten the sheets to the frame in a run-up, adhering to a step of 15-20 mm. If necessary, cut the sheets.

When using self-tapping screws, it is necessary to ensure that their hats do not go inward much, however, they should not stick out above the drywall surface either. The use of a special screwdriver with a stiffness limiter will greatly facilitate the task. In addition, there should be a gap of a couple of millimeters between the sheets of drywall, it is needed, firstly, for the possible expansion of the surface under the influence of temperatures, and secondly, for covering the joints with a mixture of gypsum.

The final

The final stage is the sealing of the joints formed between the sheets. For best results, it is better to use gypsum or a special mixture. Before puttying, it is necessary to treat the surface with a primer. The ceiling is completely puttied, if necessary, protruding screws are tightened.

After applying the mixture, a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is applied. In order for the mesh not to stick out, you need to level it with a spatula. Next, let the structure dry. When everything is thoroughly dry, it is necessary to treat with a fine sandpaper all the areas on which the putty was applied, and the gaps formed between the drywall and the wall.

This completes the installation of a false ceiling with your own hands. Then you can paint it, paste over the wallpaper, whiten it, in general, you can do whatever you want. With proper installation, the hinged structure will last for many years.

To independently mount a suspended ceiling, it is not necessary to have special skills. Anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands will cope with the task. This type of ceiling finish is a great option for any room, including offices, retail space, housing. Each of them can choose their own style.

Today, there are many solutions and facing coatings on sale. In conditions of a limited budget and high quality requirements, this solution is the best. To do this, everything must be carefully selected and mounted. As a result, this coating will harmoniously look in any room.

Advantages of suspended structures

The main reason for the popularity is the ability to effortlessly mask the defects of the rough floor.

Of the most positive qualities of hinged canvases, we note the absence of the need for surface preparation, even if there are significant irregularities.

If possible, to hide coating defects, suspensions are in no way inferior to tension systems, although the costs will be less. Plus, you can save even more by doing the work yourself. Another advantage is the ability to place communications in the interceiling space.

Materials used

Unlike stretch ceilings, where a PVC sheet is used, in suspended versions, rigid materials are attached to metal profiles. This gives the installed system additional advantages, increasing the possibilities of interior design. Because of this, they are extremely well-known to experienced designers for making bold decisions.

This quality ensures popularity among ordinary people interested in simple but effective finishes. When installing a false ceiling, it is possible to use any coating materials - from PVC panels (the most economical option) to dry gypsum plaster.

How and from what to make hinged structures? More often, plastic panels, metal slats, sheets of hydro-resistant drywall, various types of facing tiles, including those based on glass with mirror elements, are used.

disadvantages

This type of interior decoration has its drawbacks. The main negative point is that after the installation of the coating, the height of the room becomes smaller. Therefore, the suspension system cannot be installed in an initially low bathroom. It must be understood that such a design will reduce the height by another 10 or even 15 cm.

Interceiling space is often used in laying electrical wiring (if it is not hidden), cables, split system route, ventilation, etc. Installation of communications must be carried out before installing the ceiling. After assembling the ceiling structure, access will be difficult.

You will need to plan lighting places, and make cable connections with their fixation.

Making changes, as in the case of communications, will become difficult.

Types of structures

Many people do this kind of work with their own hands today. There are open and closed types of ceiling. In the first case, the details of the frame remain outside, in the second they are masked by decorative elements. Structures are tiled and rack. The latter are fixed with the help of suspensions, into which slats of different colors and shades are inserted. The tiled ceiling is assembled from profiles in the form of cells, into which the elements are then laid.

Before starting work, decide on the type of construction appropriate to the room. It can be a continuous single-level or multi-level plasterboard coating. GKL ceiling is characterized by high performance properties, undemanding maintenance and ease of installation. A non-professional can handle this type of material. Installation of suspended plasterboard ceilings on one level, and even more complex ones, is within the power of an amateur.

Mounting

Despite the ease of installation of hinged structures, not everyone understands the process. This will require simple skills. Previously, even before the start of installation, marking is carried out for the installation of profiles using the building level. They retreat from the base of the ceiling by 10-20 cm. Profiles are attached to the perimeter of the room with dowels. Fastening is carried out according to the marks applied using the level.

Next, we mount the main guides, as well as fasten the suspensions. The elements are placed in increments of 60 cm. After completing this stage, it is necessary to mark and fix the longitudinal profiles. To connect the parts, suspensions of the "crab" type are used.

Upon completion of the installation of the crates of metal profiles, they begin to install the drywall structure. Sheets are placed across the longitudinal guides, fixing them on the profiles with self-tapping screws. Mounting step - 15-20 cm.

After assembling the suspended ceiling structure, it remains only to mask the seams between the plasterboard with a sickle tape and smooth it with putty.

If desired, the plasterboard ceiling is illuminated using lamps or LED strip.

Benefits of Armstrong Suspension Systems

Such designs are known to be popular due to their easy installation. This process is so simple that anyone can do it on their own. Such ceilings are distinguished by very good performance properties. A wide range of special tiles is available for cladding.

Before installation, it is imperative to make a layout and assembly plan, depending on the room where it will be used. With the help of such a project, the amount of material needed is calculated. In addition, it is required to correctly select the layout of all elements.

The installation process is mastered quickly when the assembly instructions specified by the manufacturer in the instructions are followed. Subject to the recommendations, this work will be managed by a person who previously had no idea about the existence of such systems.

Assembly of the Armstrong-type structure

First, select the necessary materials and tools. Buy plates with a reserve of 5 or 10%, which will avoid shortages at the end of work. It is also necessary to correctly determine the option of ceiling tiles. They are either smooth or textured. If necessary, the elements are painted in the desired color with acrylic or water-based paint.

Not so long ago, the installation of suspended ceilings with a 3D image printed on them began to be actively practiced. The design of such plates is limited only by the imagination of the consumer. As during the assembly of a plasterboard structure, the installation of an armstrong false ceiling is preceded by laying communications that will be located above it, otherwise there will be inconvenience.

The armstrong type suspension system is selected based on the severity of the integrated equipment, which is supposed to be placed in the false ceiling. Fasteners of suspended structures of this type are designed to take into account a distributed load of up to 6.5 kg per 1 m², some hold up to 10 kg per 1 m².

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

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A plasterboard ceiling is the best solution for those who want to tidy up the ceiling surface on their own, but are not eager to mess with plaster or buy an expensive heat gun for a stretch PVC sheet. Let's find out how to make a false ceiling from plasterboard sheets and get acquainted with the instructions explaining in detail how to fix drywall to the ceiling correctly.

When should you choose drywall?

Plasterboard suspended ceilings will be the right choice if:

• the work needs to be done quickly and with a minimum of effort - installing a plasterboard ceiling is much easier for a beginner than plastering, besides, you do not have to wait for each layer of mortar to dry;
• it is necessary to hide wires and communications;
• you want to use spotlights;
• it is required to make sound or heat insulation - it is convenient to hide any insulating material behind the drywall on the ceiling;
• there is a need for a perfectly flat ceiling surface in the absence of skills in working with plaster.

If you are already seriously thinking about how to make a drywall ceiling, take into account some of its disadvantages:

• Like any false ceiling, it will reduce the height of the room.
• Plasterboard ceiling sheathing involves the mandatory use of tools such as a puncher, a screwdriver, as well as a laser or water level.
• Cracks may appear at the joints of the GKL over time.
• Aligning the ceiling with drywall cannot be done alone.

Work materials

Before we begin to figure out how to make a drywall ceiling, let's find out what needs to be prepared before starting installation. We will need:

• thickness from 8.5 to 9 mm. If you plan to make a false ceiling in the kitchen or bathroom, then you need to choose a moisture-resistant material - GKLV.
• Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) 60 X 27 mm.
• Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) 28 X 27 mm.
• Dowels and screws, anchors.
• Special hangers.
• Cross-shaped fasteners for connecting perpendicularly joined profiles - "crabs".
• Sealing self-adhesive tape for a snug fit of the frame.

You can also make a suspended ceiling from GVL - which are durable and non-combustible, but in this case, reinforced profiles will be required, since this material has a fairly large weight.

Instruments

How to sheathe the ceiling with drywall using the available tools? The minimum you need:

• roulette;
• laser level or hydraulic level;
• pencil;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• knife for cutting sheets;
• metal scissors;
• marking cord.

If we are talking about how to make a false ceiling from start to finish, you need to remember about the tools and materials for its processing and puttying, which include:

• spatulas;
• grinding mesh;
• mesh grater;
• serpyanka tape for joints;
• putty;
• primer.

Preparing for installation

Before you start leveling the ceiling with drywall, you must:

1. Completely complete the work on leveling the walls in the room: in the places where the profile is attached, the surface must be absolutely flat.
2. Make a design sketch for an accurate calculation of the amount of materials (profiles, sheets, self-tapping screws, fasteners). The scheme of the plasterboard ceiling frame with a calculated step between the elements of the crate will help to avoid a situation where the edge of the sheet does not match the profile, and it cannot be fixed.
3. Eliminate base surface defects. Despite the fact that drywall ceilings will hide it, this step is necessary to prevent the old coating from shedding. Before attaching the profile to the ceiling, repair cracks, clean crumbling areas, apply a deep penetration primer.

Finishing the room is done after the suspended ceilings are installed.

markup

Installation of a plasterboard ceiling is unthinkable without preliminary marking. The goal is a perfectly flat horizontal line, perpendicular to the floor and running along the perimeter of the entire room. It will serve as a guideline for setting the start profile. To correctly markup, you must:

• Decide on the height of the plasterboard ceiling. For a design with spotlights, the surface will have to be lowered by at least 8 cm, if they are not used, a gap of 4-5 cm will suffice.
• Find the lowest point of the base ceiling surface. To do this, you need to measure the height of the ceiling in all corners and in the center of the room. The smallest height is marked on one of the walls with a tape measure and a pencil, then the distance is laid off from it, by which the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered.
• The resulting height is transferred to each wall, the points are connected by a horizontal line using a chopping cord.

When marking the surface for a plasterboard ceiling, it is much more convenient to use a laser level.

For marking under the main profiles for a plasterboard ceiling, you need to consider 2 points:

• The edge profiles should be at a distance of 20–25 cm from the walls.
• Step between profiles - 40 cm.

Hangers can be placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other, extreme - 25 cm from the walls. To mark the anchor points, attach the hangers to the ceiling and mark 2 points for each.

Frame mounting technology

The installation of the frame begins with the installation of guide profiles:

• The guide is applied with the lower edge to the line, marks for dowels are made through the holes in the profile.

If there are no holes on the edges of the profiles, you need to step back from its ends by 10 cm and make them yourself.

• Holes are drilled with a perforator.
• A sealing tape is glued to the profile, it is fixed with dowels on the wall.

The false ceiling is fastened with the help of suspensions, also pasted over with sealing tape, fixed with anchors.

The carrier bars are fixed on the hangers, the ends of which are inserted into the guides. After fixing the profiles on both sides on the hangers, their free ends are bent.

If the length of the profiles is not enough, you need to use special extensions designed to connect two strips.

If you are making a false ceiling in a bathroom or corridor, following these instructions will be enough. Suspended ceilings for the kitchen, living room or bedroom, that is, for larger areas, will require the installation of additional transverse profiles, to which the short sides of the GKL sheets will need to be attached. Perpendicularly joined profiles are fixed with the help of "crabs". The result should be a lattice frame.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Before sheathing the ceiling, you need to take care of the communications. The wires are placed in a corrugated pipe, wiring is carried out for lighting fixtures.

The prepared sheets are applied to the frame in such a way that their edges are joined in the center of the profiles, and screwed with self-tapping screws:

Important points to consider when fixing drywall to the ceiling:

• There should be a chamfer on the edge of the sheets at the joints, if not, you need to do it yourself with a knife or a special planer. The sheets should fit snugly enough to each other, the gap between them should be from 1 to 2 cm.
• Since some of the drywall sheets will most likely need to be cut, when deciding how to sheathe the ceiling, it's best to start by securing entire sheets. When this part of the work is done, you can more accurately determine the size of the cut sheet.
• A small gap of 0.5–1 cm must be left between the sheathing and the wall.

putty

After the suspended ceilings are installed, it remains only to finish them. First of all, it is performed, the same for all types of plasterboard structures:

1. The joints are closed with reinforcing tape.
2. Seams and points of entry of self-tapping screws are puttied.
3. After the putty has dried, the seams are rubbed with a special mesh, the entire surface of the plasterboard ceiling is primed, and a finishing putty is applied to it in a thin layer.

After the putty has dried, it must be sanded. Then the plasterboard ceiling is primed again and painted or wallpapered.

Now you know how to make a false ceiling from plasterboard sheets. This process should not cause you any particular difficulties, if you strictly follow the instructions, everything will definitely work out.