How to quickly make a greenhouse. How to build a greenhouse with your own hands

Ecology of consumption. Manor: With the onset of spring, every summer resident faces the task of planting seedlings and their further planting in open ground. A simple and cheap design of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes will suit all summer residents and owners of country houses without exception.

Many summer residents strive to provide themselves with self-grown vegetables for the whole year. But due to climatic features, it is not always possible to achieve this goal in those areas that are located in the northern regions of our country. An excellent solution to this problem is the construction of a greenhouse on the garden plot.

True, not all gardeners have the financial ability to buy a ready-made factory greenhouse. For such people, the way out of the situation can be the construction of greenhouses from plastic pipes with their own hands.

You can design and build a greenhouse from plastic pipes on your own, without resorting to outside help. And such a greenhouse made of plastic pipes will serve throughout the year, several seasons in a row. The obvious advantage in the construction of greenhouses from plastic pipes is the prevalence, long service life and low cost of polypropylene products.

CHOOSE A PLACE FOR CONSTRUCTION

When choosing a future place for building a greenhouse from plastic pipes, a number of factors should be taken into account that affect the quality and quantity of the future crop.

There are the following options for placing a future greenhouse made of plastic pipes in a garden plot:

1. You need to place a greenhouse made of plastic pipes, created by yourself, in an open space, away from other buildings on the site and large garden trees. This placement option can be combined with the location around the greenhouse of small shrubs and plants. This will add aesthetic appeal to the building.
2. If, due to the small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, it is not possible to use an open space of sufficient area, it is possible to provide for the location of a greenhouse with one side adjacent to the wall of an already erected building, house or barn. With this option, an important condition will be the location of the other sides of the greenhouse on the south side in order to receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

SELECTION OF FORMS

The most common form in the construction of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes is an arched structure. This is due primarily to ease of construction and relative cheapness.

When choosing a form for the construction of a future greenhouse from plastic pipes, it is necessary to take into account the features of the garden plot and the place that is chosen for the installation of the structure.

If a greenhouse made of plastic pipes will be located in an open area, then it is better to stop at a gable model. In the case when the greenhouse will adjoin one side to the wall of an existing building, it is more expedient to opt for a shed model.

The base of the greenhouse can be made in different geometric shapes, whether it be a square, rectangle, circle, oval or trapezoid. Recently, greenhouses in the form of a tent are gaining popularity.

Attention! Greenhouses of this design have greater light transmission than the classic options.

PROS AND MINUSES OF BUILDINGS FROM PLASTIC PIPES

Building a greenhouse from plastic pipes has several advantages over structures made from other materials:

The main and, apparently, the only drawback in the construction of a greenhouse from plastic pipes is its lightness. This can cause the entire structure to sway in strong winds. At the same time, this problem can be solved if additional metal rods are driven into the ground to strengthen the structure.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS REQUIRED FOR CONSTRUCTION

Before you make a greenhouse out of plastic pipes, you should calculate the necessary materials and tools. This is recommended to be done immediately after determining the location on the site for the future structure. Such measures will help to avoid additional costs already at the construction stage of the structure.

So, for work you will need:

1. Timber or boards for forming the base of the greenhouse. It is recommended to treat wooden elements with special protective substances before starting construction, which will protect the wood from decay.

   Advice! To save money, it is recommended to use not branded professional wood processing tools, but improvised ones. For example, impregnate wooden beams with resin, smear several times with drying oil, treat with a blowtorch.

2. Polypropylene pipes. It is necessary to calculate how many linear meters will be needed to build a greenhouse. For a more accurate calculation when building a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands, it is recommended to make a drawing of the future design. After receiving a certain footage of plastic, you can add 10% of the total length for the stock.
3. A polyethylene film is used to cover the polypropylene structure. It must be strong enough. High strength will protect it from tearing and allow you to use several seasons.
4. Several metal rods. The reinforcement must be at least 1 m long.
5. Nails and screws.
6. Handles with locks and hinges for arranging doors and windows in the greenhouse.
7. Additional metal loops for attaching individual plastic structural elements.

CONSTRUCTION OF A GREENHOUSE

If at the stage of calculating the materials used, a detailed drawing of the future structure was drawn up, then you can immediately proceed directly to the construction of the greenhouse. Otherwise, it is recommended to draw up a detailed construction scheme - this will greatly simplify and speed up construction work.

FOUNDATION INSTALLATION

Before you make a greenhouse out of plastic pipes yourself, you need to create a foundation. Under the future foundation of the greenhouse, a flat, flat area with a small depression is needed. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to level the ground and make a small depression of a few centimeters. As a material for the foundation, you can use either boards or a wooden beam.

Attention! Before proceeding with the installation of the foundation, wooden boards must be cleaned with a planer or sandpaper, and also treated with protective substances.

To strengthen the foundation of the future structure, it is recommended to use additional metal brackets or corners. A metal corner is attached to each internal junction of wooden boards. If timber is used as the material for the base of the greenhouse, it is more advisable to use staples that are driven in at each external junction of structural elements.

The finished foundation should lie tightly on the ground prepared for it. If gaps remain between the foundation and the ground, they must be sprinkled with earth.

INSTALLATION OF THE FRAME

After the construction of the foundation, along its outer perimeter, metal reinforcement should be driven into the ground in increments of no more than 100 cm. Pre-prepared and cut pieces of plastic pipe of the required length are mounted on these metal rods.

To fix plastic pipes, self-tapping screws are used, with the help of which the pipe base must be pulled to a wooden foundation. As connecting elements in the horizontal plane of the structure, plastic couplings, corners and crosses are used, which must first be drilled inside. This will allow the pipes to pass through the fittings.

WE CREATE A ROOF

When choosing a material for building a greenhouse roof, you should consider the features of some of the most common options:

1. The optimal and common material for covering the greenhouse is polyethylene film. If financial possibilities allow, you can use a special reinforced PVC film as a cover. This material has good thermal insulation, which will allow you to maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse even at night. At the same time, this material has high transparency and transmits up to 95% of sunlight during the daytime.
2. A polycarbonate roof has the longest lifespan, but is more expensive and can be difficult to build. In addition, such a roof cannot be quickly dismantled, unlike a polyethylene one.
3. Textile material for covering type "agrotex" has a low thermal insulation. True, the lightness and simplicity of this material make it possible to carry out installation and dismantling work in the shortest possible time.

CONCLUSION

Summing up, we can say that the option of self-construction in the garden plot of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes seems to be the most acceptable option. Such designs have a number of undeniable advantages. These include lightness and strength of the structure, its durability, ease of installation and dismantling. In addition, such greenhouses are ultimately the cheapest option, and from an aesthetic point of view, they are in no way inferior to expensive factory counterparts.

We learn how to build a greenhouse from plastic pipes with our own hands from the video

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As a rule, planting is done in the spring, but you need to take care of the conditions, in particular, we are talking about protection from low temperatures. Especially when it comes to vegetables.

Greenhouses and greenhouses do an excellent job with this task. How to make it from almost improvised materials and see below.

How is a greenhouse different from a greenhouse?

Before delving into the question of how to make a greenhouse, let's decide what is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse:

• The greenhouse is used for growing seedlings and further planting in open beds, while plants can be in the greenhouse all year round;
• The required temperature level in the greenhouse is maintained due to the presence of compost or manure in the soil, while in the greenhouse there is an additional, third-party heating source;
• It is possible to grow trees in a greenhouse, but this cannot be done in a greenhouse.

What are greenhouses?

A greenhouse can be stationary or portable (a photo of a greenhouse in the country is presented below).

A stationary greenhouse can have all kinds of shapes, the most common model is a butterfly (it got its name due to the doors opening on both sides).

Portable more often in the form of a tunnel. The main material in both cases is a polymer film.

From all this it follows that it is quite possible to make a greenhouse with your own hands, this is the same creative process as growing cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.

Material selection

Before considering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, let's deal with the issue of choosing a material.

When choosing a material, it must be borne in mind that it must meet the following requirements:

• Good light transmission;
• Resistance to various kinds of deformations, with strong gusts of wind, for example;
• Easy to install and assemble the whole structure;
• Durability.

As for the materials used, the cheapest, and most importantly practical, is the film, and here are its types:

• polyethylene;
• stabilized film;
• polyvinyl chloride.

Covering materials include:

• agril;
• lutrasil.

In order to finally decide and understand which material is preferable, it is necessary to compare them, and consider the pros and cons of each.

Glass

The advantages of glass include: it transmits approximately 94% of the light, serves for a long time, retains heat.

By cons: it gets very hot in the summer, a strong load on the main frame.

Film

The advantages of this material include: low cost, low weight, no foundation is needed.

Note!

By cons: fragility, difficult to wash.

Polycarbonate

Pros: good light transmission, high level of thermal insulation, lightweight and durable.

What to use to make a frame for a greenhouse

The frame is a kind of basis for a greenhouse, most often it is made of wood or plastic, less often of metal pipes.

wooden frame

The main plus is its environmental friendliness. It is also worth noting that it is very simple in terms of installation.

For installation, you will need the following tools: a hammer, a screwdriver, a saw, nails, rubber as a sealing element, wooden bars, a ruler.

Note!

It is advisable to cover the wooden elements of the future structure with drying oil before the installation process.

Execution sequence

First of all, a beam is attached to the mortgage mount, which will then become the base. Then the main beam is placed around the perimeter of the foundation, and temporarily everything is fastened with nails.

Side and corner beams are fastened with a bar diagonally. The door frame is installed to the side pillars. The cornice is attached to the top of the side and corner beams.

Roof

In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe points where the vertical beams are fixed, it is necessary to remove a beam, the length of which is 2 m. The roof beams must be fixed at an angle equal to 30 degrees, they are connected to each other by a beam. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe end points, they must be supported by vertical guides.

The final fixing of the roof frame is done with the help of corners and strips on self-tapping screws.

Note!

Doorway

The door frame is attached first. Do not forget in the middle and upper part of the opening is fixed with special stiffeners.

Application of metal pipes

A greenhouse, as mentioned above, can be made from metal pipes, and also with your own hands. This design is more durable.

You will need: a welding machine, a hammer, a grinder, a special nozzle for working with metal (disk).

The pipe is divided into two identical parts. Tees are welded to the edges of the base pipe, crosses are welded every half a meter. The cut off elements must be welded to the crosses.

Special tees are attached to the arc to secure the door pillar.

Covering the greenhouse

After the frame is ready, you can start covering.

Film

The easiest material to use is film. It is necessary to cover the entire structure, leaving a margin of 15 cm, and then cut off.

Polycarbonate

The front side of polycarbonate, the one where the picture is shown. First you need to cut the sheets. Seal the cuts from above with sealing tape, perforated from below.

First, polycarbonate is attached from above, then on the sides. Mounted on the frame with a special profile, as well as rubber gaskets.

At the end, a seal and door fittings are installed.

Ventilation

In greenhouses, in order to create ventilation (ventilation), you just need to open the doors, but it is advisable to do this in warm weather.

A greenhouse is an indispensable thing for a gardener who is going to harvest a large crop of tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables in the future, by approaching the design wisely and following all the instructions, everything will definitely work out.

DIY greenhouse photo

The greenhouse is as much a symbol of the modern age as space flights, computers with the Internet, robots and nuclear energy. This is not an exaggeration. According to WHO data for 1975, then 3/4 of the world's population lacked animal protein (without which, roughly speaking, a person becomes dumb and stupid), half were chronically malnourished, and a third, in addition, had never tasted either meat or fish, no eggs.

We still feel the consequences of malnutrition and malnutrition on a global scale today, but if the situation is not improving radically, then at least it is not significantly worsening, although less than 0.5 hectares of agricultural land per person remain on Earth. It is greenhouse farming that helps to hold out until better times (while still alive - hopefully!) the yield of fruit and vegetable crops in a greenhouse can be several times higher than in open ground(see fig.), and they harvest not in one gulp on a market day, but gradually all year round; this allows us to consistently meet demand and free up land for livestock farming.

Note: from the UN stuff. In the same 1975, UN experts zealously promoted vegetarianism. And last year they also recognized him as a mental disorder.

In turn, greenhouse agricultural technology was completely transformed quantitatively and qualitatively by a polycarbonate greenhouse. It is simple, cheap, durable and technologically advanced. In addition, if in the same 1975 expert tasters accurately separated greenhouse fruits and vegetables from ground fruits and vegetables, now they confuse them in about 50% of cases. This means that they do not feel a noticeable difference and speak at random. Under an indispensable condition: the test samples were grown in modern greenhouses using modern agricultural technologies. Which, in turn, in old greenhouses are either inefficient or simply not applicable. For example, a greenhouse made of wood and glass from drip-fog irrigation in it becomes completely unusable in 2-3 years.

Polycarbonate is a type of organic glass that reflects infrared (IR) rays well and thus can create a strong greenhouse effect. But he did not transform greenhouses on his own, but only after they learned how to produce it in the form of sheets of a honeycomb structure. This made it possible to create strong and resistant prestressed greenhouse structures on a lightweight frame; You can build a polycarbonate greenhouse in almost any climate, from the Sahara to the Putorana Mountains and from the Mojave Desert to Northern Labrador. Thanks to this, greenhouse farming has also become a public help: a greenhouse on a piece of land of a quarter of a hundred square meters is able to provide a family with fruits and herbs all year round and even provide a marketable surplus for sale.

Polycarbonate is easy to process, and the technology for creating structures with working skin from it is simple. With the widespread use of pipes made of engineering plastics and methods for their quick and durable connection, the construction of the frame has ceased to be a serious problem. Currently, there is a wide range of kits for assembling small garden greenhouses on sale, but - demand dictates prices! Therefore, everyone who wants to build a greenhouse with their own hands arrives: in the Penza region alone. number of self-made private greenhouses for 2009-2014 increased by more than 20 (!) times.

Note: engineering plastics - those that are able to bear mechanical operational loads for a long time. PVC, for example, with all its advantages, is not structural plastic, although it can be very useful in greenhouse business, which will be discussed later. Of the engineering plastics, polyisopropylene (PP) is most commonly used: it is not expensive, and its mechanical properties are comparable to steel. Further, unless otherwise specified, plastic will always be understood as PP.

There are different ways to build a greenhouse from PP, at least this:

Video: greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes

But we will further try to tell not only how to make a greenhouse yourself, but also how to design it, and without complicated calculations, and when building to avoid excessive costs and labor costs. Ready-made sets of parts are calculated for all occasions and therefore are not cheap, a design well developed by others in these specific circumstances may turn out to be unsuitable for any reason, and we will create our own greenhouse for our own local conditions, getting by with the minimum necessary.

We will focus primarily on polycarbonate greenhouses on a tubular plastic frame, as the most versatile. But there are a number of garden crops that can vegetate and bear fruit all year round at a relatively low above-zero temperature and relatively low light. These are people from the tropics who have taken root in temperate latitudes: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, zucchini, squash. We cultivate them as annuals, but in general they are evergreen and, with minimal heating costs, can produce marketable products for 9-10 months a year, and the demand for them is always good.

Such crops do not require high agricultural technologies, but they are afraid of overheating in summer; Here they need more fresh air and coolness. Therefore, and also for a number of other reasons, for their small-scale production and cultivation for their own consumption, the good old greenhouse made of wood is better suited, so we will also deal with them. We will not ignore the mini-greenhouses for table greens, flowers and seedlings, especially since you can arrange one in a city apartment.

Finally, greenhouse business is being improved not only by venerable specialists in large research centers. Craftsmen sometimes come up with designs that are surprisingly effective and promising; some of them will also be discussed.

Greenhouse or greenhouse?

Greenhouses with greenhouses are usually distinguished by size. Like, the greenhouse is large, you can enter it and work there like in a garden. And the greenhouse is small, you can only climb into it with your hands, and then squatting, so do pruning, hilling, etc. uncomfortable. But this is only a visible difference, and the essence is much deeper: a large building can be a greenhouse, and a small box can be a greenhouse.

Note: about appearance and essence. The famous ancient Greek philosopher-sophist was once asked: "What is a man?" He, after thinking, answered: "A biped without feathers." The next day, the students shook out of the bag in front of him ... a plucked chicken.

The greenhouse creates the so-called. spring awakening effect. To do this, the soil in it is deeply mulched with manure; the best is horse. As biofuels decompose, they heat the earth from within. Root heating of plants at a lower air temperature than on the soil surface, in combination with an excess of nitrogen, stimulates, first of all, the rapid growth of vegetation of its nutrient factory - green mass. If plants have their own depots of supplies (bulbs, rhizomes), then they are primarily used for this, and the root system is still lagging behind in development. Figuratively speaking, plants do not yet think about fruiting under such conditions.

Greenhouses are used mainly for forcing and growing seedlings. Forcing is a process of controlled acceleration of vegetation; in some species - up to flowering. By distillation, for example, you can get onion feathers, fresh watercress and lilies of the valley by a predetermined date: New Year, March 8th. Plants are so exhausted from forcing that they either die or require a long rest in the vegetative phase. Distillation of table greens gives products of excellent quality if the planting material was environmentally friendly, because. plants take very little from the soil.

Note: the simplest full-fledged greenhouse for seedlings and forcing onions on greens can be built in half an hour or an hour, see fig. The fertile layer of soil is removed on a bayonet, folded into a pile. Another half bayonet is selected and a layer of manure is laid. The soil is laid back on top, a shelter is made of a film - and you're done! In central Russia, such a greenhouse produces products from about the end of March to mid-October or early November.

In the greenhouse, root heating takes place, but moderate. The main thing here is that the plants should feel the influx of warm, warmer than the soil, air from above and / or from the side. This produces a "mid-spring effect": plants tend to produce as quickly as possible in order to start accumulating nutrients for the winter or dry season. Well, if a paradise with eternal spring is arranged for them, then you can “fatten” as much as you like without exhausting yourself, as long as there is enough soil nutrition: the root system is now working with might and main. This is the basis for the high productivity of the greenhouse economy.

Note: a greenhouse cannot be a greenhouse, but any greenhouse can become a greenhouse. In general, for this it is necessary to strengthen the soil heating and weaken the air. But the subtleties of handling distilled crops are already a topic from agricultural technology, and not the construction of greenhouses.

About refraction

Polycarbonate and silicate glass have a refractive index of light significantly more than 1. That is, the slopes of the greenhouse, the rays of the Sun falling on them, are directed inward at a steeper angle. On the one hand, this is good: in winter, the ramp works as a light concentrator - it collects oblique winter light over a larger area and directs it inward to a smaller one, see Fig.:

On the other hand, with a decrease in the slope of the slope, the degree of reflection of direct rays also increases. If the angle of their incidence decreases to a critical one, the so-called. angle of total reflection, then only half of the scattered light will pass inward, and the direct light will be completely reflected. Based on this:

• In mid-latitudes, the angle of inclination of the slopes must be chosen within 30-45 degrees from the horizontal.
• The further north the greenhouse is located, the steeper the slopes should be.
• Greenhouses of a conventional design must be made gable and oriented with a roof ridge from north to south, i.e. slopes to the east and west. In this case, the angle of incidence of most of the light that has passed inward onto the surface of the shadow slope will be less than the critical one and it will be reflected back inward.

Note: Cellular polycarbonate has an additional advantage over glass in this regard - light refracts each of the layers of its structure and the degree of light concentration is higher. But the layers of polycarbonate are thinner than the thinnest glass, so its light transmission is almost the same as that of a single layer of glass.

How do plants sense light?

Radiation refraction in the coating of the greenhouse has another important role: it smooths out fluctuations in lighting and temperature in it during the day and season. Most horticultural crops are quite hardy to the amount of light and temperature, if they are kept more or less stable or change smoothly. But a sharp jump in any of these parameters of the plant is understood as a signal that unfavorable conditions are approaching. At the same time, their physiology switches from growth and fruiting algorithms to survival and accumulation of their own reserves: productivity drops, product quality deteriorates. A classic example is cucumbers. Let it not be for long, but it suddenly became colder or breathed with heat - everything became smaller and went bitter.

Own greenhouse

The first thing to start with is why do we need a greenhouse? What do we, speaking in Odessa, want to have from her? According to marketability, greenhouses are divided as follows:

1. Winter, or year-round - allow you to grow any crops all year round. To date, only durian and cherimoya are not physiologically amenable to greenhouse farming.
2. Seasonal capital, or semi-winter - give marketable products from Central Russia for 8-10 months. in a year. In these, either annuals or plants with physiology that require / endure a dormant period at sub-zero temperatures are cultivated.
3. Seasonal lightweight - the active phase of the production cycle for 2-3 months. shorter than semi-winter ones; usually they are meant by seasonal greenhouses. Cultivated in them, as a rule, early / late ordinary vegetables and herbs.
4. Temporary - used for growing seedlings in natural soil, forcing or for a one-two-three-fold crop of crops that greatly deplete the soil: root crops, strawberries, etc. When the site is developed, the greenhouse is dismantled, transferred to a new location, and the land is left to rest under fallow or sown with nitrogen-fixing crops, legumes, etc.
5. Greenhouses - they are put (it is difficult to call it a building) once for seedlings and forcing. How to make a greenhouse as such, said above. It is more difficult to arrange greenhouses for exotic flowers, for example. orchids or Gesneriaceae, but this topic is already from floriculture, and not gardening.

Note: phalaenopsis common in flower shops - only a few representatives of about 800 genera and more than 35,000 species of orchids, suitable for mass culture for cutting. The flowers of all orchids are long-lived and stand-up cut. Among them there are many such that in Hollywood there is not enough cocaine to purposely invent, on the left in fig. There are cases when rich connoisseurs paid $5,000 and even $20,000 for just 1 flower of a rare species. In countries where all sorts of rarities are loved, renting live flowering orchids in pots is a lucrative form of small business; rare orchids need to be groomed and nurtured until flowering for 7-8 years. Many orchids exude a delicate fragrance; vanilla is an orchid. Orchids grow up to the tundra, but in our area they are either small and do not catch the eye (for example, orchis), or very rare, like venus slippers - cypripediums, in the center in fig. The Gesnerian culture is simpler, and they are also very showy and simply luxurious, on the right in fig. True, they are not suitable for cutting.

The purpose of the greenhouse determines the initial and operating costs for it. In winter, a capital foundation is needed with complete concreting of the underground part and insulation, as well as full lighting and heating. The cost of their heating is the lion's share of the current ones, so winter greenhouses are more profitable than the larger ones (from about 200 cubic meters) in large farms. The own heat reserve of a large greenhouse is enough to maintain the vital activity of plants, taking into account the greenhouse effect, for several days, up to 2 weeks. Therefore, heating systems for them do not rely on peak frosts, but on the average seasonal temperature, which is much higher.

The original version of the winter greenhouse is a greenhouse-greenhouse; it does not require constant heating in the middle latitudes at all. The mulch that decomposes under the soil layer heats the greenhouse. But its production cycle is difficult to vary, it is necessary to extract manure in large quantities 1-2 times a year, and food crops from it most often do not pass according to modern sanitary requirements, because. are oversaturated with nitrates. In the greenhouse phase of the cycle, only chives are more or less edible. Large hotbeds are used mainly as greenhouses, and small home gardens are used for cut flowers.

Note: in certain climatic conditions, it is possible to build a completely non-volatile winter greenhouse, the so-called. thermos greenhouses; a separate section will be dedicated to them. But the complexity of construction and the cost of it for a thermos greenhouse turn out to be much higher than for a conventional one. True, exceptions are possible, see later in the same section.

Semi-winter greenhouses- also quite solid structures; the foundation is most often tape monolithic or from ready-made blocks of lightweight type, tk. the upper structure is light and is not afraid of uneven shrinkage. But the working area is illuminated and heated here only at the beginning and end of the season of use, and 6-7 months. The greenhouse operates on natural light and the greenhouse effect. The light lantern of a semi-winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a PP frame will be inexpensive and can last more than 15 years, and with minimal illumination and heating in such a one from Moscow and to the south, you can grow perennial subtropical crops up to citrus fruits; they still have a dormant period. Harvesting will be seasonal, and heating in the very cold to a slight plus will help the plants endure the winter.

seasonal greenhouses Most of all, they build themselves. Ordinary table crops, with skillful management in the Moscow region, give up to 10 months. per year, and to the south of Rostov-on-Don, they are able to function year-round. In both cases, the cost of light and heat will not exceed more than 2 times those for a city apartment of equal area. With a reduction in the time of use in the cold season, heat costs fall rapidly, so most of these greenhouses live up to their name. The profitability of seasonal greenhouses increases significantly if inexpensive solid fuel for stoves is available to the owners; see the section on heating greenhouses for more details.

Light lanterns of seasonal greenhouses are generally the same as those of semi-winter greenhouses, but the foundation is made light columnar. Most often, rolled metal is used for it (pipes, corners, channels), but it will serve a period on a par with a greenhouse and very cheap wood, if the pieces of timber or logs for it are boiled in bitumen for 10-20 minutes (scalded with bitumen) and before being installed in the pits, their ends wrap with ruberoid. If the life of the greenhouse does not exceed 5-7 years, and the lantern is plastic, then it can be built without a foundation.

Temporary greenhouses and greenhouses use in the middle lane from about April to October. They grow fast-ripening crops in them; predominantly bulbous and root vegetables, as well as table greens. Make temporary greenhouses most often ground (see below) and cover with a film. Lighting and heating are not done, because. natural light is already / still enough for photosynthesis, and the greenhouse effect gives an increase of 7-12 degrees to the seasonal temperature.

Note: the degree of the greenhouse effect depends on the strength of the lighting, because. Plants release carbon dioxide during photosynthesis. Therefore, behind the light in the greenhouse you need an eye and an eye - less light, less carbon dioxide, it became colder, photosynthesis weakened, the greenhouse effect also weakened, it got colder, and so very quickly until freezing.

Greenhouse and soil

The next factor to keep in mind when, so to speak, preliminary consideration of the greenhouse is the nature of the use of the soil. According to it, greenhouses are divided into soil, box and trench or bulk.

Ground, as the name implies, are built directly on the ground. They are temporary and seasonal. The basis of such a greenhouse is simple: wooden formwork 200-300 mm high on a flat area, see fig. Outside, the formwork is supported with pins made of reinforcing bars, on which the ends of the arcs of the lantern from pipes are put on. The frame of the lantern is lightweight, designed for more or less favorable weather conditions. Cover it mainly with a film.

Fertile soil is poured into the formwork; mulch if necessary. As the soil is depleted, its top layer is selected and changed. Such agriculture will last no more than 5-7 years: the smaller the plot of land, the more difficult and expensive it is to maintain its fertility for a long time. But by that time, the formwork will rot, the film, if it is not disposable (see below), will wear out, and the frame of the greenhouse is made collapsible or, if it is made of PP pipes, completely transferred by two or three to a new place.

The box greenhouse is suitable for all greenhouse crops for at least 10 years; theoretically - forever. This is achieved by the fact that the reinforced formwork is filled up with crushed stone along the waterproofing, on which boxes are placed filled with earth, with perforated bottoms. The depleted earth from the boxes is simply thrown away and a new one is poured. Excess irrigation water flows into the rubble and then into the drainage. Thus, the scourge of non-professional greenhouse farms is excluded - acidification of the soil from the cold from below. If there is no drainage system on the site, then the drain of the greenhouse is taken out into a cesspool attached to it. It is impossible to reuse wastewater for irrigation, harmful micro-animals are teeming with them!

Most highly profitable home-made greenhouses are box-type. The production of formwork and foundation for a box greenhouse is also possible from wood (see Fig.), because. in this case, it almost does not contact the soil and is less exposed to harmful effects. If lumber, in addition to being treated with biocides, is also soaked twice with hot bitumen, then the formwork will last 12-15 years. For a longer estimated service life, it is better with a blind area (for a semi-winter greenhouse - with insulation) and build a brick base on it.

Note: for plants with a superficial root system (onions, radishes, carrots, melons, watermelons), the boxes can be on stands. Then the greenhouse can be multi-storey, in whole or in part.

A trench greenhouse is, roughly speaking, a series of concrete gutters (trenches) with technological passages between them. They are cast together with the foundation and covered with a common lantern. In each trench, crushed stone drainage is made with access to a cesspool or a collector common to the site, and earth is poured on top of it. Plots for different crops in trenches are separated by removable partitions reaching the drainage layer.

Caring for a trench greenhouse is more difficult than a box greenhouse, and the likelihood of the spread of diseases in it is greater, which requires quite skillful agricultural technology. But with proper construction, soil cooling from below is completely excluded even on permafrost. In addition, it is possible to cultivate plants with a powerful deep root system, up to woody ones. Therefore, most of all winter and semi-winter greenhouses are built with trenches in places with a harsh climate.

Note: the author knows a resident of the Kola Peninsula, who, on income from potatoes, onions, garlic and tomatoes from a makeshift trench greenhouse, built himself a mansion of 230 residential squares in 5 years. When asked: “Mortgage?”, He asked in response: “What is it?”

When Form Matters

The most important factor determining the functionality of a greenhouse is the configuration of its lantern. In terms of the variety of architectural forms, greenhouses can compete with public buildings, but they most often build frame greenhouses-houses on their own, pos. 1 in the figure, tunnel faceted, pos. 2, and tunnel arches with semicircular (pos. 3) and lancet (pos. 4) arcs of arches.

small house

In the greenhouse-house, the entire operational load is carried by the frame, so the glazing can be of any kind. With the required strength for a backyard greenhouse, the simplest technologically and cheapest is a wooden frame. Modern methods of processing commercial wood make it possible to achieve its durability in greenhouse conditions up to 30-40 years. The best type of wood for construction is larch.

The easiest way to make a wooden greenhouse-house is fully ventilated; this is important for summer greenhouse cultivation, see above. The roof at a high standing of the Sun slightly shade the plants and cuts off the ultraviolet, which protects them from burns. In the southern regions, sometimes the roof slopes in the very heat are also covered with gauze or old washed sheets.

The roof of a wide-open greenhouse-house plays another role: an excess of carbon dioxide is formed in the greenhouse, because. it is heavier than air, and when heated, it cannot go up. For plants, this is like caviar for cognac: the harvest is rampant, and the fruits are one to one.

In regions with a sharply continental climate, a wooden greenhouse-house will be the best choice, especially if local lumber is cheap. In Yakutia (Republic of Sakha), for example, it is very hot in summer and watermelons have time to ripen on a layer of soil 20-30 cm above the permafrost. Small, with a large apple or orange, but it tastes like watermelon like watermelon.

Note: Yakut watermelons may seem incredible, but we, without limiting ourselves to verbal assurances, refer the reader to Yu. Yuri Konstantinovich is not related.

Watermelons and melons come from deserts, they are able to develop as semi-ephemera, quickly. However, it is useless to experiment with tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes in the open ground of Yakutia: the warm season is not enough for ripening, the roots either reach the permafrost and the plant withers, or the Sun burns it - the air is clean, transparent, UV burns. A fully hinged greenhouse-house allows you to create a suitable microclimate at the right time for early ripening varieties. True, with heating at the beginning / end of the season, but here the fuel is inexpensive, and the sale of products is ensured.

A drawing with a frame specification for a winter-semi-winter wooden greenhouse suitable for installation on permafrost in a harsh climate is shown in fig. In European Russia, a greenhouse-house can be significantly lightened and its frame can be made from improvised materials, for example. old window frames, see below.

Note: a wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate is by no means at enmity. On the contrary, lightweight but durable polycarbonate takes on some of the operational loads, which silicate glass is not capable of. At current prices, polycarbonate coating will cost less than glazing, and the entire wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate will be stronger and cheaper.

faceted tunnel

Greenhouse houses have a significant drawback, which manifests itself in places with low insolation: when the Sun is low, the angle of incidence of its rays on the slopes is close to optimal once a day for a short time. Simply put, the greenhouse-house does not concentrate the light well and turns out to be a bit dark in winter. In an attempt to solve this problem, a faceted tunnel greenhouse appeared.

It is impractical to make the frame of a faceted tunnel from plastic, because The mechanical properties of PP turn out to be the best in the case when the cross-links of the frame are prestressed, i.e. if the frame arcs are curvilinear. Therefore, a faceted tunnel is, as a rule, a metal greenhouse made of pipes, sheathed with polycarbonate; pipes can be round, but profile pipes are more often used. However, here the problem of the joints of the frame elements arises.

Welds under greenhouse conditions are intensively corroded, especially external ones, sandwiched between the pipe and the casing. Non-destructive visual inspection in such places is not possible, so the frame is prone to sudden failure.

Note: don't try to make steel frames prestressed - regular rolled steel is completely unsuitable for this use! Have you heard of metal fatigue and fluidity?

In the industrial production of metal greenhouses, welding is generally abandoned, and frames are assembled on shaped plastic connectors, on the left in Fig. These are sold separately, but they are expensive and require an additional large amount of fasteners, so home-made steel frames of greenhouses are still welded, but without external seams: the workpiece is cut at an angle, bent and cooked from the inside, on the right in Fig. This requires special accuracy and accuracy in the calculation of the frame and the marking of the workpieces, but the weakened joints are immediately visible, because. the weld seam rusts faster than solid metal.

Speaking of connections

In greenhouse frames, except for wooden ones, it is impossible to drill holes and drive fasteners into them: a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside will give centers of corrosion and / or dangerous mechanical stresses in such places. Non-wood frames are assembled by welding or special connecting nodes. In plastic branded kits for self-assembly, the parts in the connectors are still fixed with self-tapping screws, because. a set that requires special tools for assembly, few will buy. But serious manufacturers carefully calculate the location of the fasteners, the entire structure is modeled on computers, and the prototype is run through full-scale tests before the series. And frivolous locals, not bothering themselves with painful thoughts about copyrights, simply copy the worked models.

arched tunnels

The greenhouse-tunnel of semicircular arches is the easiest to manufacture, the most wind-resistant and best of all concentrates the light. Pay attention again to pos.3 fig. with greenhouse shapes: most of the semi-circular sides seem darkish. This means that most of the light went inward and did its useful work there. And in the summer, in the heat with a high Sun, an almost flat roof gives the same effect as that of a greenhouse-house.

The material consumption of a semi-circular greenhouse and the cost of its construction are also minimal, however, snow resistance is low, and in places with a large snow load, incidents like the one in Fig. are possible, even if the structure is structurally completely correct. Therefore, in regions with heavy snow, it would be more correct to build an lancet greenhouse. It will cost 3-5% more, but it is easy to make several large vents for summer ventilation, which is important east of the Urals, mountains and rivers.

Any arch shows all its advantages only when it is tense, operational load as part of the structure or previously. For a greenhouse, as a light one-story structure, only the second option is possible. At the same time, the excellent mechanical qualities of PP are fully manifested in parts made of prestressed pipes. In combination with a working polycarbonate cladding, this brings greenhouses from it on a plastic tubular frame to a record ratio of strength, resistance and durability to cost. This implies another record - the popularity of structures of this type. Therefore, a little lower we will deal with them in more detail, but for now we will briefly consider one more arch.

Profile arch

In thin-walled three-dimensional parts, with bending radii characteristic of arched greenhouses, stresses in ordinary steel turn out to be far from its yield strength, on the one hand. On the other hand, galvanized C- and U-profiles for drywall are inexpensive, lightweight, and assembling a greenhouse frame from a profile of this type (see Fig.) seems to be elementary: a Phillips screwdriver and metal scissors are enough. When hardened with struts and crossbars, the “fresh” design comes out quite strong, even stronger than from PP pipes. And the skin can be attached to it not with clamps (see below), but somehow simpler and easier.

However, the first disappointments await the profile enthusiast already during assembly. Firstly, you have to twist a lot of screws and they are expensive. And the fingers cramped into a claw and bleeding calluses simply scream: “Well, buy, finally, you, the owner of such a screwdriver!” Secondly, manually marked and cut without a profile cutter (and there are a lot of them!) Do not connect exactly and the whole frame goes, as they say, sideways. In production, it’s easier, where the computer will calculate, transfer the data to the robot stamp, and the robot will cut it perfectly, it simply doesn’t know how badly.

But the most important disappointment awaits even before the end of the first season: the frame is rusting before our eyes. What, it would seem, should be read immediately in the specification for the profiles - they are not intended, like drywall, for outdoor use ...

plastic arches

Snow and wind...

Correctly arranging and assembling the plastic greenhouse itself is possible only if you know the wind and snow loads on it at the place of construction. The maps in fig. With the numerical values ​​of the loads, as they say, do not bother and do not expect complex formulas in the future: everything has already been reduced to the numbers of the load zones. If one of them is indicated in the text, it means the largest in this place. For example, the greenhouse will be in the 2nd wind and 6th snow zone, or vice versa. Then you need to do it for the 6th zone; features in snow and wind, if in this case they are, are negotiated.

frame

Branded greenhouse frames are assembled from special pipes on shaped connectors (see, for example, Fig.): glasses, flat and three-coordinate crosses, straight and oblique tees, splitters for several angles. They are on sale, but they are expensive and, as a rule, are designed for a specific design. Pushing around in an attempt to adapt it for yourself, you still have to buy the rest to complete the set. Which immediately and entirely would be half the price.

We will go the other way. We will get by with 3/4 inch PP water pipes and cheap connectors for them sold everywhere: straight couplings, flat tees and right angles. We will connect the details, as well as. Renting a soldering iron (more precisely, a welding machine) for propylene is inexpensive, it consumes little electricity (plugs into a regular outlet), and you can learn how to weld PP in half an hour. The finished frame of this design will come out no worse than the branded one, but much cheaper. A novice master will be able to assemble it over the weekend. Since aerodynamics and icing are more important for the greenhouse than the weight of the upper floors, the frame is designed according to aeronautical rather than building principles. Good planes fly, sometimes longer than an ordinary house costs.

Zero cycle

The main thing about preparing the base of the greenhouse has already been said earlier. It is only necessary to add that the site for the greenhouse must be planned with an accuracy of 5 cm / m, otherwise the probability of soil acidification increases. If the greenhouse is not ground, after planning, a soil slope of 6-8 cm / m is formed towards the drain into the drainage. For lightweight greenhouses, the slope is formed before the gravel formwork is installed, and for capital greenhouses, after the strip foundation is poured. The slopes of the drains of winter trench greenhouses and thermos greenhouses are formed by a screed of their floors. Don't forget about slope waterproofing!

The arcs of the arches of the considered design are tightly put on the pins of reinforcing bars protruding upwards by 40-50 cm. It is not necessary to make a ledge less, the arcs will not hold well. More - also not necessary, bent incorrectly. Under the lightweight greenhouse, the rebars are driven into the ground close to the formwork by 1 m or more, and under the capital they are walled up in the foundation for the same 40-50 cm. in the thickness of the formwork boards.

Note: in zones 1-3, the thresholds of the door and window frames are also attached to the formwork with clamps and self-tapping screws. In the upper zones, frames are made without thresholds, and their racks are put on pins from reinforcement, like arcs.

How to make a frame?

Dimensions

The standard lengths of water pipes are 6, 5 and 4 m. From them, semicircular arches are obtained with a span of 3.6, 3 and 2.3 m, taking into account cutting waste and shrinkage of welding joints. These values ​​should guide the calculation of the overall dimensions of the greenhouse. Lancet arches are more reliable if the snow zone is 4th and higher. Then they go, on the contrary, from the size: the arch is drawn to scale on a graph paper (the upper corner is always straight in this case!), The length of its wing is measured with a curvimeter, a flexible ruler or laying out along the contour of a thick thread, followed by measurement, and transferred to the length of the workpiece. 20 cm are added for trimming-shrinkage. You can do the opposite: measure a piece of soft wire (for example, a copper winding wire with a diameter of 0.8-1.2 mm) on a scale, bend it as it should on a graph paper and beat off the arc wing profile on it .

Assembly

The arcs of the arches are assembled straight on a flat surface. They are put in place one by one; during the assembly process, a ridge and longitudinal load-bearing beams are mounted - stringers, pos. 1 in fig. Door and window frames, pos. 2 are assembled separately on corners, tees and straight couplings. Couplings - the basis of hinges and latches; sections of frame racks are welded into the nozzles of the couplings. Then, hinges and latches from pipe segments of a larger diameter are attached to the coupling bodies with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is possible, because there will be no permanent loads in these places, and malfunctions of hinges with latches do not affect the strength of the frame and are easily eliminated. The assembly of door panels and vents begins by threading their rear pillars into the hinge holders, then the rest is added by weight. They are sheathed with anything, on self-tapping screws in the frames of the paintings, because and these nodes are not load-bearing.

The lightest frame of this type is shown in pos. 3. Pay attention - the ridge beam, like the stepped stringers, is assembled from pipe sections on tees. In this case, the door and window frames are also fastened on tees flush with the gables.

How often to put arcs?

The installation step of the arcs is determined as follows:

• If zones 1 and 1, take a step of 1100 mm.
• In other cases, put the zone numbers and get the summary number of the load zone N.
• With the largest zone up to the 3rd inclusive, 4800 is divided by N, and the resulting value is rounded to the nearest smaller integer, a multiple of 50, and the step is obtained in millimeters; e.g. for 2 and 3 zones it will be 950 mm, and for 3 and 3 - 800 mm.
• If the largest zone is 4 or 5, 5600 is divided by N; further - similarly to 2 and 3 zones.
• In the largest 6 and 7 zones, 5500 is divided by N.

The dependence of the arc step on the zone, as we see, is non-linear. This is explained by the fact that as the zone number increases, stringers take on an increasing load, see below. So the design comes out a little more material-intensive, but significantly less labor-intensive.

Note 15: The 8th zone, both of which, generally speaking, is problematic. Here, it happens that snow breaks concrete floors, and the wind shifts houses from foundations. Any independent construction here is carried out at your own peril and risk, and this applies to greenhouses in full. How to get out, with a certain degree of risk, will be said later in the course of the presentation.

Gain

You can rely on the lightest frame with some apprehension in 1-2 zones, but even here it is desirable to reinforce it with at least a couple of stringers. The schemes of their location for different zones are shown in pos. A-V. Do not forget only that the coordinates are given for the longitudinal axes of the ties, and the beams themselves are stepped, like the ridge beam. With this in mind (and shrinkage for welding), it is necessary to mark the workpieces.

Attention! Pairs of stringers of the same level are always made in mirror image, pos. E!

In the 6th zone, the upper pairs of stringers are connected with crossbars (pos. E), in the 7th, the ends of the tunnel on both sides are reinforced at the bottom with braces according to the 2-1 scheme (see Fig.) In the 8th, you need to reinforce according to the 3-2 scheme -1 (see ibid), but, again, without any guarantee. It is useless to increase the number of stringers in the upper zones: figuratively speaking, they begin to push loads away from each other and, in general, the structure weakens.

How to put braces without a gusset? Moreover, the angles are fractional? Using homemade galvanized clamps 0.5-0.7 mm, see fig. on right. The workpiece is bent in a U-shape, mandrels are inserted into it from segments of a steel pipe and the ears are pressed with a vise. It is convenient to use 2 pairs of vices: in stationary desktops, they squeeze a long ear, and with smaller adjustable ones, a short one.

After crimping, the mandrel is removed, the clamp is cut to size and shape, and holes are drilled for M6 bolts. Such handicraft crimping is obtained with a shortage, but here it is only for the better: compressed by bolts in place, the clamp and pipes will grab tightly, and it will acquire monstrous rigidity for such a thin metal.

Arrows and legs

The location of the stringers on the lancet arcs is determined based on the basic semicircular with the same span, as shown in pos. E. Please note that this method is only valid for arrows with a 90 degree tip angle! You can’t make the arrowhead single without a gusset, well, you don’t need to. An additional pipe, corners and tees for a two-beam ridge, pos. I. Its halves are performed, like stringers, in a mirror. The offset from the top is the maximum; beams need to be moved as close to it as possible, according to the size of the available tees and the skills of PP welding. By the way, it is easiest to bring out both the chimney and the semicircular arch through the double ridge, it will make it stronger.

If the arches rest on vertical legs no higher than 60 cm, counting from the top of the reinforcement, then an additional stringer is placed at the junction of their wings with legs, pos D. Reinforcement in zones 7 and 8 is performed according to the same schemes, shifting one cell down, those. there should not be empty cells under reinforced ones. If the legs are higher than 0.6 m - alas! - must be considered especially, because the bottom of the frame will no longer work as a continuation of the arches, but as a separate box.

Door and window

In zones starting from the 3rd, it is necessary, and in the lower ones it is highly desirable to fasten the door and window frames not directly to the arc (slightly beveled tees create undesirable stresses in the frame), but hang them in it on half-bars and short longitudinal holders, pos. K, K1, K2. Such a mount, to an inexperienced eye, seems rather weak, but remember: a still working sheathing made of durable polycarbonate will fall on the gables. Ultimately, the frame will be no weaker and will last no less than the DC-3 or An-2 fuselage.

And under the film?

The current film greenhouses are not at all the flimsy disposable "polyethylene" of the past. A greenhouse cover made of modern reinforced film will last 5-7 years and will cost several times cheaper than a hard polycarbonate one. The special greenhouse film has another valuable property: hydrophilicity. It retains a layer of moisture up to 2 mm on its surface, which improves the transparency of the coating and enhances the greenhouse effect. Thanks to this, a modern film greenhouse can be seasonal and even semi-winter. It does not cause problems and airing film greenhouses in the heat: it is enough to tuck the edges of the canopy; they do not need a door with a window. In general, for places with a mild and temperate climate, a greenhouse under a film is the best option, but in others it makes no sense to build it.

The frame described above will go perfectly under the film. It has quite an aircraft margin of safety, and when calculating for a film, it is enough to take the zone numbers 1 higher. The pillars of the door and window frames must be left, see Fig., because they take part of the load. You can fasten the Velcro to the racks not with self-tapping screws, as in the figure, but with clamps made of thin soft wire. Not so aesthetically pleasing, but simpler, cheaper and no less reliable. If with self-tapping screws, then it is better to install direct couplings under the Velcro and wrap the self-tapping screws into their thickened cases.

Rigid roof

Film greenhouses justify themselves mainly in cases where they are temporarily installed for a relatively short period of time. For example, someone bought a plot for a forest plantation or pasture for livestock. As now with loans - everyone knows. In order to raise funds for its development, I decided to wait 3-4 years, and for the time being, rent out the land inexpensively. This is where subtenants and a farmer colleague can help out, and it’s not bad to profit from it yourself.

For long-term use, greenhouses with a rigid polycarbonate coating are more profitable. With an estimated service life of 20 years (and this is not the limit), it will cost less than 2-3-fold replacement of the film cover. In addition, you do not need to mess with its washing, removal and installation twice a year and allocate space for its winter storage. So let's take a closer look at polycarbonate.

It has already been said above that the greenhouse, in terms of its coverage, differs from other structures in a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside. A coating up to several cm thick has to withstand the same loads as a half-meter stone wall. Therefore, the methods of working with polycarbonate for a greenhouse are somewhat different from them for and. How to cut polycarbonate for a greenhouse, gives an idea of ​​the video:

How do you attach it to the frame?

We will consider only individual points that are insufficiently covered in well-known sources.

Structure

Cellular polycarbonate slabs are produced in different thicknesses and structures. Plates of the same thickness can be of different structure, and vice versa. The 2R structure (see Fig.) is unsuitable for greenhouses either in terms of heat-insulating or mechanical qualities.

Structures of type R (without diagonal connections in cells) are more transparent than type RX, but they hold dynamic loads worse, therefore they are suitable for places where the wind zone is not higher than the 4th one. 3R is used where the average winter temperature is above -15 degrees or frost is below -20 for more than a day no more than once every 3 years. In other cases, you need to take 5R.

The temperature ranges for 3RX and 6RX are the same, but in cases where the wind zone is 5th and higher. For any 8th zone, the only acceptable option is 6RX. 5RX does not need to be taken, it is not very transparent. 6RX and was designed to replace the 5RX in greenhouses.

The thickness of the plates is determined as follows:

• If both zones are not higher than the 2nd, we take 6 mm.
• For other cases, we find the summary number N, as for the frame.
• For the 3rd and 4th largest zones, N is left as is.
• For the largest 5 and 6 zones, we take N + 1.
• If there is a 7 or 8 zone, we take N + 2.
• The resulting value is multiplied by 2.
• The result is rounded up to the nearest higher standard slab thickness.

Thus, for example, for 4 and 4 zones, a thickness of 16 mm is obtained, and for 8 and 8 - 40 mm. However, there are no both 8 zones in the Russian Federation.

sheathing

The standard dimensions of polycarbonate slabs are 6x2.1 m and 12x2.1 m. The general dimensions of the greenhouse are chosen such that an overhang of at least 10 cm is formed above the gables of the arched and faceted houses and along the entire perimeter of the roof of the houses. According to SNiP, the overhang should be at least 15 cm. If the greenhouse is commercial and you intend to obtain a sanitary certificate for the products, please note that the inspectors and the greenhouse will check the entire form.

The radii of curvature of the greenhouse arches allow the slabs of the most commonly used structures 3R and 5R to be laid on the frame both along and across. How would be more correct? And so, and so. It all depends on what loads in a given place are greater, static from snow or dynamic from wind. If the number of the snow zone is greater than the wind zone, it is better to lay it across, on the left in Fig. Otherwise - along, on the right there.

Note: RX structures are only laid lengthwise, otherwise sudden failure of the coating due to material fatigue is possible.

Longitudinal joints are assembled on standard FP (straight) and RP (ridge) connectors, depending on the bending radius in a given place. It is desirable to seal the upper gaps of the joints with building silicone, marked with yellow circles. It is better to take one-piece connectors, they are cheaper and there is nothing to rust in them. In extreme cases, it is still possible to separate the joint by dripping it with brake fluid and pulling the plates along in different directions.

When sheathing across, some of the seams between the plates may be hanging. In this case, the plates are connected in a known amateur way (shown in the inset): strips of flexible plastic 3-6 mm thick with sealing gaskets made of rubber or silicone and self-tapping screws. It is better to take strips and an overlay for a joint from PVC. It is strong enough, reliable and resistant for such a case. But its main advantage is in the junction - PVC quite quickly sticks tightly to the gasket and it never squeezes out from under the lining.

Mounts

Methods for attaching polycarbonate to the frame with thermal washers (pos. 1-3 in the figure) have been described many times and we will not dwell on the details. We only note that if the sheathing is longitudinal, then both ends of the plates must be pasted over with perforated self-adhesive tape and framed with an end profile.

The frame of the greenhouse, as indicated above, is highly undesirable to weaken with holes and fasteners. The skin is attached to it with clamps made of steel 1.5-3 mm thick, pos. 4 and 5. A strip 40-60 mm wide is bent along the mandrel in a U-shape, clamped together with the mandrel in a vice and the mustache is bent. The bend must be done taking into account the thickness of the rubber gaskets, and they, in turn, according to the wall thickness of the cage connectors of the frame. The thermal gap between the plates 3-5 mm wide is filled with silicone sealant.

Hut from the windows

The greenhouse from the frames of unusable windows appeared during the mass construction of Khrushchev. Firstly, then the carpentry for new buildings was of the most vile quality: “Come on with the plan! Val come on! The current generation of people will live under communism!” Therefore, many new settlers immediately changed the windows-doors to custom ones, since the materials and work then cost a penny. Secondly, the workers, i.e. officially permanently employed, summer cottages were then distributed to everyone right and left. Thirdly, penny state prices and availability are by no means and by no means friends. It is appropriate here to recall an old Soviet political anecdote. The chairman of the collective farm "Light of Ilyich" opens the general meeting: "Comrades! We have two issues on the agenda: the repair of the cowshed and the construction of communism. On the first question: there are no boards, no nails, no bricks, no cement, no lime. Let's move on to the second question.

We will move on to technical issues, they are of some use. Now, too, many windows are being replaced with metal-plastic with double-glazed windows, but the frames are still strong. Of these, you can assemble a completely reliable and durable house, if you help the frames a little to carry the load. It’s not worth covering such a structure in Khrushchev’s style with a disposable film, it’s better to spend money on a couple of sheets of inexpensive 3R 6 mm polycarbonate, which, with a greenhouse size of about 6x3 m, will make it possible to do for the roof, except for the gables, with just one roof truss. We will get a completely seasonal and commercial greenhouse for zones up to the 4th inclusive, i.e. for most of the territory of the Russian Federation suitable for agricultural use.

The design of the frame of the greenhouse under the frame is shown in fig. for clarity, the proportions of parts are given arbitrarily. Dimensions in plan - 5.7x2.7 m; internal space - 5.4x2.4 m. It will be needed for it, in addition to polycarbonate and frames, 15-16 boards 150x40 mm 6 m long and 1 beam 150x150 mm of the same length; only 0.675 cu. m of softwood, and about 5 kg of nails 70, 100 and 150 mm.

The foundation is a wooden columnar, of 6 pillars in 2 rows 1 m long. A beam is needed just for the foundation. The protrusion of the pillar at the highest point of the site above the ground is 30 cm; the rest are aligned with it by the hydraulic level. It is not necessary to deepen the pillars according to the calculation of freezing, the structure will play along with the ground for many years, it was checked on Khrushchev's "polyethylene".

The beams of the lower support frame - grillage - and the upper - strapping - are sewn on nails from boards as usual, in a zigzag, pos 1. The driving step in a row is 250-400 mm. The grillage is assembled into a prefabricated spike, and the harness into the prefabricated quarter (pos. 2) is also on nails, 5 envelopes per corner. Trimmings of boards measuring 150x150 dissolve into three, these sticks will come in handy later.

Next, the grillage is mounted on the foundation and 2 boards are spread in three lengths. Here, from the new tree, you will have to go to the old one, sort the frames. 8 solid highest ones (and preferably 10, if there is one), set aside immediately (on the left in the figure), they will go to the corners and, if there are 2 more, to frame the doorway. The rest are scattered over the estimated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls somehow, if only there were fewer holes, on the right in fig.

Now, from a 50x40 rail, 4 racks are cut into the height of the highest frame plus 10 mm and nailed to the grillage vertically at the corners flush with their outer sides. The corners are sheathed on the outside with boards with a height of now racks plus 220 mm (grillage height + strapping height). The strapping is laid in the nest that has turned out at the top and the entire box is finally sewn with nails.

Frames are installed starting from the corners. How to fasten them to the box and to each other is shown in pos. 3-5. Approaching from 2 sides to the places of the future door and swing window, they put the racks of the door and window frames from solid boards. They are fastened to the grillage, strapping and adjacent frames with nails using the same scrap bars. On them, if necessary, you can dissolve another 1-2 boards.

Now it's time for the roof. Rafter trusses are made according to pos. 6. Polycarbonate is laid on the roof along. A longitudinal strip 40 cm wide is cut from each slab. In this case, roof overhangs of about 15 cm are formed, and the strips will go to the sheathing of the gables.

The penultimate stages of work, firstly, close the gaping openings in the walls with foam plastic, and foam all the gaps. Foam in this case is not only a sealant and insulation; it will give the whole structure additional connectivity and strength. Secondly, they measure the dimensions of the door and vents in place and make their frames according to fig. on right.

Before the drainage device and the launch of the greenhouse, it remains to arrange the base. In Khrushchev's times, slate or roofing material was put on it, sprinkled with earth on the outside. It is easier for us: now there is such a wonderful (without irony) material as empty plastic bottles. From they are simply stuffed under the grillage with the necks inside, only the plugs do not need to be removed. You will get excellent thermal insulation with ventilation, absolute manufacturability with maintainability and long-term durability; environmentalists all over the world are ready to howl, what should they do with these bottles. And we are free.

Note: this type of box will also go under a disposable plastic film, only it needs to be reinforced with the same 50x40 rails, see fig:

Bottled

Plastic bottles are made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Among the remarkable qualities of this material, there is a unique one: it transmits UV almost without loss. This allows you to enhance the greenhouse effect and thereby reduce heating costs and extend the operating cycle of the greenhouse. Therefore, if it is possible to get at least 400 PET containers, it makes complete sense to make a greenhouse entirely from bottles.

There are 3 options here. The first is to dissolve the bottles into sheets on long winter evenings and sew them on a typewriter with nylon or, better, propylene threads into panels of a suitable size, pos. 1 in fig. Stitching with a furniture stapler, as is sometimes advised, is not worth it: staples will cost more than threads and rust pretty quickly. You can also find tips to sew not with a thread, but with a fishing line. If their authors know where to get a machine that sews with a fishing line, or they themselves know how to sew with their hands at the same speed, then it doesn’t matter - the fishing line both in length and in weight will cost many times more than threads, and the seam will not drag out, because. the line is solid, not twisted.

The second option is to assemble something like sausages from bottles (fig. on the right), string them on steel bars and fill the frame frame with such “kebabs” vertically, with their necks down, so that condensate drains, or horizontally, pos. 2 and 3 in fig. with types of bottle greenhouses. If the street is below +10, there will be no sense from such a greenhouse without closing the gaps between the bottles, but with spring warmth it will give a greater concentration of light, which will accelerate the development of plants.

The third option - the bottles are stacked horizontally with their necks inside, pos. 4. Thermal insulation and light concentration are maximized (even houses are built this way), but you need not hundreds, but thousands of bottles. They are connected with glue or cement, which is laborious and expensive, so bottle greenhouses, so to speak, horizontal, are rare.

Is it possible in winter without heating?

The greenhouse loses a lot of heat, and its heating costs a pretty penny. The marketability of self-heating greenhouses is very limited by an excess of nitrates in the soil. In order to obtain products that meet modern sanitary standards without winter heating, a thermos greenhouse was invented.

It was invented not at all by Ukrainian craftsmen today, as ukrnet is broadcasting with might and main, but in Israel more than half a century ago. By the way, it was for thermos greenhouses that we had to come up with the same cellular polycarbonate and special thermal blocks that combine good insulating and mechanical properties. From a bare idea to a workable design, most often it takes a very long time ...

Israel is the world leader in greenhouses. Greenhouses are built there in deserts and mountains. In summer, the ground surface heats up to +60, and in winter it can be -20 for a short time. And the idea itself is that in the soil at a certain depth a constant temperature is maintained, equal to the average annual temperature in this place; in the subtropics it is about + 18-20. With an increase of 7-12 degrees from the greenhouse effect, we get just the optimum for plants up to pineapples.

The thermos is only the upper belt of the underground structure of the greenhouse, see fig. Lower, ordinary concrete, in essence air conditioning. In winter, mother earth warms it, and in summer, hot light will not flow into the pit with cool dense air. As a result, the temperature in the greenhouse can be regulated only by vents without the cost of heating and air conditioning. To enhance lighting in winter, we orient one roof slope to the south, and cover the other from the inside with aluminum foil.

In the temperate zone, the situation is different. Firstly, although the average annual here is about +15, however, heating depends not only on temperature, but also on the incoming heat flow. In order to get to the “air conditioner” of the required power, you have to go down beyond the freezing depth by at least 2 m. Already in the Rostov region, this requires a pit of 2.5 m. Secondly, peak colds do not last hours, but days . Therefore, the volume of the greenhouse needs a large one. In the same Rostov region. the minimum dimensions of the pit in terms of - 5x10 m.

With such fifty, indeed, in our area you can harvest 400-600 kg of pineapples and up to 1.5 tons of bananas per year. How to sell them? Okay, let's say we live in some distant kingdom, where consumer control for a moderate bribe in the national currency is always ready to willingly and joyfully sell heroin as a food additive, and weapons-grade plutonium as children's toys.

But half a ton of even small pineapples per piece will give about 1000 fruits. How much is 1 (one) pineapple? In a supermarket, with a branded sticker and a quality certificate for the batch? How often and how many pineapples are bought? When, in this scenario, will only the excavation of 120-130 cubic meters of soil pay off? In general, a backyard thermos greenhouse in the boreal zone can be classified as a project in which common sense and sober calculation are completely replaced by an indefatigable desire to achieve something uterine, contrary to the obvious.

Of much greater interest is a small ground-based thermos greenhouse with its own heat accumulator in the form of a heater, operating on the principle of a solar oven with a heat storage device, see fig. on right. At -5 outside, its interior near Moscow can warm up to +45. Therefore, in the arch there is a sliding hatch-temperature regulator with a clapper valve and a deflector that diverts a cold stream from plants to the zone of greatest heating.

The upper clapperboard should be triggered by the slightest breath back and forth, so its sash is made extremely light, freely moving and spring-loaded to zero balance in the closed position with a thin, 0.15-0.25 mm, steel wire. The cracker still does not save from frost, so the hatch-regulator must be closed manually at night.

The indicated dimensions are minimum; the greenhouse can be made bigger. If it is made in the form of a ridge, but for every full and incomplete 1.5 m of length along the front, you need your own hood with an air duct so that the heater warms up evenly. So, a greenhouse 2 m long should have 2 air ducts and 2 hoods. You don’t need to pull the hood high up, it’s still not a stove; the thrust here is minimal, if only the heated air seeps through the heater.

When to Minimize

The mini-greenhouse is used firstly in city apartments. Here, a part of the insulated balcony or loggia is taken under it. It is better to make a partition from the same polycarbonate. Boxes with earth are hung on the wall; at the same time, it is possible to grow exotic flowers and supply the family with radishes, strawberries, and greens in winter.

In crop production, mini-greenhouses are used to create special conditions for a certain group of plants. In an ordinary box greenhouse, for this it is enough to nail arcs from a metal-plastic pipe to the boxes and cover everything with a film, on the left in fig. For potted crops, you have to make small copies of large greenhouses, in the center there.

In the country garden economy, a mini-greenhouse made of bottles will be an excellent help, on the right in fig. higher. Due to the high concentration of light, it can be transparent, and fresh air has a beneficial effect on plants in the early phases of development. In addition, with such no hassle: he took it out and put it.

There are also types of highly productive mini-greenhouses available for self-production. Here, for example, in Fig. on the right is a greenhouse made of tires. Despite the clumsy appearance, it is high-tech: a two-stage greenhouse effect and drip irrigation are used. With skillful selection of varieties, one rack of "auto-greenhouses" can produce up to half a bucket of tomatoes or 700-800 g of strawberries per day.

So what about in winter?

A small winter greenhouse can pay off either north of approximately the parallel of Kotlas, or in the very south, in the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory. In the first case, the matter is decided by rather high prices and demand, in the second - a mild winter. Both there and there, for a small private trader, in general, 2 designs are possible.

The first is a classic trench greenhouse-greenhouse, only covered with polycarbonate, see fig. below. Because the frame is fully load-bearing, when calculating the coverage, the zone number is taken 1 less. In winter, flowers and onions are grown. By the end of February, when the mulch is almost overgrown, tomatoes and cucumbers are sown and harvested at the end of April. In the summer they “greenhouse” as usual, and in the fall, when the soil crop is cheap, the trenches are refilled; this is not a matter of one day, because fresh biofuel warms up very strongly at first. Then the cycle repeats.

The second is a box greenhouse-dugout without drainage; next diagram. rice. Dugout is a relative name, because. concrete floor screed will not hurt her in any way. Excess water flows into the trays, where, under the influence of heat from the heating registers, it evaporates and humidifies the air.

It is advisable to insulate the basement and blind area of ​​the dugout greenhouse, but the foundation does not need to be insulated. In the positive belt around it, the soil will not fall asleep for the winter, which will provide additional heating in low light. In this regard, the dugout can be considered a semi-thermos greenhouse.

How to get warm?

Heating, as already mentioned, accounts for the majority of winter greenhouse costs. If the heating is water from the boiler, then the optimal system layout will be. It was specially designed for industrial premises, therefore it does not fit well into residential premises, but it is simple, inexpensive and very economical at the required temperature up to +16 degrees, and in the greenhouse the greenhouse effect will add heat to the optimum.

However, the best option for heating a greenhouse is a stove from a heater-heater such as Buleryan or Buller. Its convector nozzles placed obliquely upward direct hot air onto the roof slopes; here he does not let them freeze, and he cools down to a comfortable temperature and falls on the plants with a warm veil, creating the effect of the height of spring. You can learn more about the features of furnace heating of greenhouses from the video below.

Video: furnace heating of the greenhouse

For a greenhouse with an area of ​​​​less than 10 square meters. m, the smallest buller turns out to be powerful, because. at a very low fuel load, the efficiency of bullers drops sharply. In this case, a potbelly stove will help out from a gas cylinder of 12 or 27 liters, the efficiency of potbelly stoves is just quite high with a weak firebox. As for long-burning stoves, they are unsuitable for greenhouses: they create a weak convection center and a strong heat radiation that burns plants. Spring is like a desert.

About lighting

Greenhouse lighting requires a separate detailed discussion. Let's share a little secret here: 1 special phytolamp for 24 W can be replaced by 3 ordinary housekeepers of 13-15 W with spectra at 2700K, 4100K and 6400K. Power consumption doubles, but is still three times lower than that of incandescent lamps.

One such triad under flat conical reflectors provides sufficient illumination of an area of ​​4-6 square meters. m. Lamps should be hung in such a way that the same spectra do not coexist either in a row or between rows.

Finally

To summarize - what kind of greenhouse to build? For starters, bottles. It will quickly, simply and cheaply allow you to learn how to run a greenhouse business and feel its benefits.

Further, in a temperate climate, greenhouses made of polycarbonate on a frame made of PP pipes definitely dominate. In harsh places, a wooden roof is also preferred with polycarbonate. It is also good in that it itself has a minimal impact on the environment. On permafrost, this is vital.

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1. Greenhouse house

From window frames you can build charming houses that will help not only provide plants with comfort, but also become a stunning decoration for your summer cottage.

2. Dome

A large polygonal greenhouse, the frame of which is built of wood covered with ordinary oilcloth. Despite the complexity of manufacturing, such a domed structure has an attractive appearance, stability and excellent illumination.

3. Plastic cap

A mini greenhouse that can be made from an ordinary plastic bottle by simply cutting off the bottom from it. Such a greenhouse is best suited for cucumbers and zucchini, as these plants do not tolerate transplantation well and spend a lot of effort on adaptation. At the beginning of the landing, the cap should be covered with a lid; later, when the daytime temperature reaches twenty degrees, the lid should be removed, and later the bottle should be removed altogether.

4. Caskets

From four boards and a window frame, you can make an original small greenhouse for flowers and plants. First, the lid from the window frame should be kept closed, and when the plants grow and get stronger, fold it back.

5. Foldable design

A convenient, practical folding greenhouse that can be made from PVC pipes of small diameter and ordinary polyethylene.

6. Umbrella

A small greenhouse made from a wooden barrel and an old oilcloth umbrella or an ordinary umbrella frame covered with polyethylene.

7. Cozy tent

A greenhouse-tent, which can be built from a children's tent, equipping its walls with oilcloth or polyethylene inserts, or buy a ready-made film greenhouse tent. The advantages of this design are its compactness and mobility.

8. Plastic house

Plastic bottles can make a wonderful open or closed greenhouse. The creation of such a greenhouse does not require large expenses and special skills, and you yourself determine the size and design of the structure.

9. Lifting cover

The original greenhouse with a lifting lid, made of wooden boards, thin PVC pipes, polyethylene and metal chains. This design is quite simple to build and very convenient to use.

10. Flowerbed

A small greenhouse that will require a wooden frame of the desired size, two thin plastic pipes and a piece of oilcloth. The beauty of this design is that when the plants get stronger and the night temperature rises, the oilcloth can be easily removed and thereby turn the greenhouse into a neat flower bed.

11. Mini house

A charming greenhouse made from plastic CD boxes is perfect for growing indoor plants and will be a great balcony decoration.

12. Pallets

A small greenhouse can be easily built from old pallets and plastic wrap. Such a greenhouse is great for growing seedlings or indoor flowers.

13. Container

An ordinary plastic container will make an excellent greenhouse, which is suitable for growing seedlings on the balcony.

14. Reliable boxing

Large greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate.

A large and reliable polycarbonate greenhouse attached to a wooden frame, which, despite the difficulties of construction and some investments, is perfect for growing any crop and will last for many years.

In continuation of the topic to the attention of readers for proper disposal.

The design of polypropylene pipes is different the availability and reasonable cost of the material, which, moreover, has light weight and strength, does not rot like wood and does not corrode like metal.

To these figures one can add another a number of features inherent in plastic construction:

• simple installation;
• the ability to move to another location if necessary;
• a greenhouse can be built in almost any shape and size;
• the material is not affected by high and low temperatures and high humidity;
• polypropylene is environmentally friendly to soil and plants;
• PVC pipes are distinguished by a long service life, due to which the greenhouse frame made of this material will last for more than one year.

How to make a simple greenhouse for a summer residence yourself from improvised means?

Types of frame made of plastic pipes

According to the shape of the structure, the frames can be gable and arched. Each option has both positive and negative sides.

Arched frame

To benefits This building includes the following indicators:

• the quality of lighting is better than in other types of buildings;
• resistance to strong winds, snowstorms and other atmospheric phenomena. Reliably reinforced construction confidently withstands snow loads and gusts of wind;
• the ability to increase the length of the greenhouse by adding additional sections;
• ease of installation of the coating, which can be used as a film or polycarbonate. The coating can be continuous or be separate fragments in the form of large sheets;
• the presence of a minimum number of seams that require high-quality sealing.

Here is the simplest greenhouse with an arched frame you can build with your own hands in the country and in the garden (photo above).

disadvantages:

• if it is necessary to equip the greenhouse with multi-tiered beds, it will be very difficult to install racks and shelves in it;
• difficulties with the arrangement of the ventilation system. For high-quality ventilation of the greenhouse, it is often necessary to have side transoms in it, the installation of which entails some difficulties, due to the peculiarities of the arched structure;
• limited choice of covering material. Only soft and flexible products are suitable as a coating.

gable frame

pros:

• in heavy rains, water flows freely along the pitched roof;
• the room can easily be equipped with high-quality ventilation by installing the required number of vents that will ensure the exit of hot air accumulating under the roof;
• the ability to grow tall crops, planting them even along the side walls;
• the gable roof prevents the accumulation of snow, and when sliding down, the snow cover does not press on the frame and coating.

Minuses:

• the assembly of a gable structure is a more complex option compared to an arched structure;
• installation requires more building materials, which, accordingly, entails more significant costs.

Covering material

There are many coverage options available today. But, in order to meet the budget project, it is worth considering the most suitable materials for this purpose, namely - polyethylene and small thickness cellular polycarbonate.

Film coating

Do you want the simplest greenhouse with your own hands? This material is characterized by high elasticity and tensile strength.

It stretches well in width and length and has good transparency, allowing up to 80-90% of sunlight to pass through.

The film must have sufficient to resist natural phenomena density, so it is desirable to use a high-density material.

The film coating has its own limitations:

• simple unstabilized polyethylene is subject to aging and destruction under the influence of high temperatures and ultraviolet rays;
• with an increase in humidity in the room, the film becomes covered with condensate, which creates a reflective screen, as a result of which the light transmission of the material deteriorates;
• falling drops of condensate cause damage to plants, and the wet surface of the film is covered with dust, which also causes a deterioration in the transparency of polyethylene.

Cellular polycarbonate up to 4 mm thick

In a greenhouse covered with a material 4 mm thick, it is only possible seasonal plant growing. The service life of the structure is limited in this case in late spring and summer. However, it is the most transparent and inexpensive polycarbonate. In such a room it is good to grow early vegetables, but it is not suitable for forcing seedlings.

The thin polycarbonate construction is a great option for those who don't plan on planting crops during the cold season.

You should not use the "four" to shelter the winter greenhouse, as it is not able to protect the room from the cold.

As for the thinner polycarbonate (3.5-3.8 mm), it is not classified as a structural material, so it is only suitable for vertical mounting.

Preparation for construction

It all starts with choosing a site for construction, which should be well lit and protected from drafts. In this case, it should be borne in mind that it is better to arrange the buildings in such a way that so that its ends look north and south. This will provide better lighting and natural heating of the room.

• type of foundation;
• type of construction (portable or stationary);
• step size between bearing elements.

If planned building a winter greenhouse, then for such a structure it is important to have a solid foundation, which will provide the structure with reliable stability during heavy snowfalls.

For temporary construction a wooden base is quite suitable as a foundation. Below are more details about each type.

Types of foundations for a greenhouse

Beam base. As a material for the construction of such a foundation, a bar with a section of 120x120 mm is used.

Before laying the timber, shallow grooves (5-10 cm) should be dug under it, into which the roofing material is laid. It will protect the wood from ground moisture.

The advantage of such a foundation is the possibility of dismantling the structure with the onset of the winter season. The disadvantage is that after a few seasons, the timber will become unusable as a result of decay.

block foundation. It is a reinforced version, which is quite suitable for non-separable winter structures. The construction of this structure includes the following steps:

A pillow of gravel about 10 cm thick is laid on the leveled soil.

The stacked block is set exactly with the help of a level.

All other blocks are placed in the same way.

Upon completion of the installation, the joints between the blocks are sealed with mortar.

For a greenhouse foundation, hollow blocks are quite suitable, which, after installation, are filled with cement mortar.

Whatever goals the owner of the summer cottage pursues, whether it be seasonal or year-round cultivation of crops, the use of PVC pipes will allow significantly reduce construction time and save money.