What to make a good chopper. Device for removing weeds with roots, choose the right tool

Potato has long been not only one of the main food products for humans, but also a valuable raw material for the production of starch, glucose, alcohol and lactic acid. Weeding this, perhaps, the most common garden crop grown in the garden and household plots of Russians, is one of the important agricultural practices, the implementation of which guarantees a high and high-quality crop.

Terms and rules for weeding potatoes

Along with many garden crops, potatoes are characterized by a long pre-emergence period, which, depending on weather and soil-climatic factors, can be 20-25 or more days. Much earlier than potato seedlings, a large number of weeds appear on the field, and further yield indicators will depend on the timely removal of which.

Carrying out weeding potato plantings, gardeners pursue goals such as the destruction of weeds and hilling, that is, loosening the soil around the bushes. As a result, the indicators of moisture evaporation from the soil decrease and, in general, more favorable conditions are created for the formation and development of potato tubers. In addition, the removal of weeds is also a measure for the prevention of potato damage by diseases and pests.

Potatoes are very responsive to timely weeding. The first weeding should be carried out two weeks after planting, it is at this time that the first weeds appear. The timing of subsequent weeding is determined individually and depends on weather conditions and soil quality. Potatoes do not need to be weeded too often, but weeds should not be allowed to drown out crop plantings.

Potatoes: weeding and harrowing (video)

Finished products: characteristics and features of operation

For mechanical weeding, various devices are used, which can be both simple and complex. If potato plantings occupy a small area, then you can limit yourself to manual processing and use ordinary garden rakes and hoes when weeding. It is advisable to cultivate large fields using mechanized devices, including hedgehogs and a motor cultivator.

For work on personal plots, the most simple, affordable and at the same time quite reliable devices for weeding potatoes are in demand.

The most successful and easy weed control is possible with the complex use of tools.

Fokina, Strizh and Aist flat cutters are especially popular with Russian gardeners, and yet unknown flat cutter Maznev, or model "PM-4". With such tools, cutting the roots of weeds at a depth of 3-5 cm is easily carried out.

Homemade fixtures

Today, there are many ways to control weeds, including chemical, mechanical and biological. In addition, Russian home-made Kulibins have long been independently designing and making very interesting devices and devices with their own hands, which are not inferior in their effectiveness to modern agricultural tools, and sometimes even surpass them. In addition, a home-made weeding plant costs the owner of a personal plot an order of magnitude cheaper than factory equipment.

To make homemade hedgehogs, you will need a hollow tube, on which you need to weld teeth from metal rods or fittings. The resulting structure must be fixed on a metal frame and provided with a wooden handle. The principle of operation of such a tool is quite simple and consists in pressing and simultaneously moving the device forward and down.

There are also relatively complex, but also more productive, as well as home-made devices that are most convenient to use. These include a universal semi-bicycle device, which consists of a frame, a bicycle wheel and various interchangeable devices that lighten plants. As interchangeable equipment, cutting wide and narrow brackets are used, as well as a bracket for working hard soil.

An interesting solution for removing weeds from potato plantings is a string hoe - a device in the form of a grip with steel wire stretched over the horns with a diameter of 1-2 mm. The quality of weeding and the productivity of the device are very high on chernozems.

An alternative method of growing potatoes without weeding

A few years ago, in the Siberian region, a method was developed for cultivating potatoes without the need for hilling and weeding. The method is based on the use of organic farming and green manure plants.

To grow potatoes without weeding, you need to prepare ridges, the width of which does not exceed 0.8 m, and make the aisles of the same size. Passages must be carefully mulched with hay or straw, and the mulch layer must be replaced with a fresh one weekly. In the last month of summer, green manure is sown on the strips under the mulch. As green manure plants, it is desirable to use mustard, radish or oats, which increase the fertility of the soil in the area for potatoes.

Equally popular is an alternative method in vertical containers, which can be used in almost any volumetric container, including dustbins and bags, garden barrels and relatively tall home-made structures.

You can refuse large-scale weeding activities if you mulch the aisles with black agrofibre. In this case, between potato bushes in a row, single weeds will be removed manually at the germination stage.

How to make a manual cultivator with your own hands (video)

Regardless of the chosen growing method, most potato cultivation technologies involve a whole range of activities, among which weeding plays an important role. If a walk-behind tractor with a rotary or mesh harrow and a cultivator with paws and a weeder are most often used on large crop areas, then compact garden plots are still weeded manually or using home-made devices. Therefore, even today, the time-tested root removers, the Dutch and straight chopper, as well as the garden fork remain the main tools of the gardener.

By and large, that a hoe, that a chopper is all the same tool that is familiar to everyone and is a triangular, arcuate or trapezoidal blade attached at an angle to a long wooden handle. With it, we loosen the soil between plants and.

Also, the triangular-shaped tool helps to make small grooves for sowing carrots, onions, parsley and many other seeds. More grooves can be used for irrigation. This tool allows you to hill plants that are even at some distance from you.- thanks to this, you do not need to stomp near each plant.

And the names in each region are different, the main thing is that the essence is the same. In the arsenal of every experienced gardener there are many hoes and hoes. In some cases, the design of the instruments is different. To store the entire arsenal, it is recommended to build a small one, where you can create ideal conditions for storing them.

Garden choppers have a variety of parameters, because the work in the garden is completely different. To process wide row spacings, a tool with a wide, massive blade is chosen so that the weeds themselves scatter at the sight of such a formidable tool. For hilling, it is more convenient to work with miniature choppers with a light blade, thanks to which the gardener does not get tired of maneuvering among the tops.

Choppers are made of carbon steel, since this material is well sharpened. However, it rusts, so after gardening it is important to clean the blade of soil, lubricate with oil and store in a dry place. You can easily make such a tool yourself if you have a welding machine, a sheet of steel and an electric grinder at hand.

But it will be difficult to make a stainless steel tool yourself, so most often they buy it. Stainless steel simplifies tool care. It is believed that a forged chopper is better sharpened, but in practice the difference is not noticeable. Moreover, it makes no sense to buy a Damascus steel chopper - except perhaps as a souvenir, since it is simply a pity to work with such an expensive tool.

In the era of replacing manual labor with mechanical labor, it would be surprising if gardeners did not come up with the option of replacing hoes. So, among motor cultivators, quite large and heavy, there is a relatively miniature tool - an electric chopper. Its light weight makes it easy to handle the tool during work.

There is a plug-in option and a rechargeable option. The second due to its mobility and design complexity is more expensive. Such a tool will greatly facilitate your work and will last at least 5 years without repair.

Hoe, she is a hoe, differs from a chopper in a semicircular blade with pointed ends. With a hoe it is convenient to knock out holes and rows in the ground for planting potatoes, as well as to deal with especially rooted weeds. There is also a hoe - a reduced copy of a hoe with a small handle. This tool is easy to use with one hand. Due to the small blade and force control, the hoe is very useful when hilling plants in dense plantings, where there is a high probability of cutting roots and stems.

Fokin's hand chopper, or Fokin's flat cutter, is a relatively new tool promoted by supporters of natural farming, without plowing and deep processing. In appearance, this is a sharp blade, located on the handle so that the gardener can cut weeds without penetrating deep into the ground.

Experienced gardeners recommend using a hacksaw blade as a material for making professional garden tools. This metal has a lot of advantages, first of all - increased strength, elasticity, resistance to abrasion. One sharpening will be enough for almost the entire season, even with "active actions" in the garden. Let's take a closer look at how to make this wonderful tool in a few minutes.

Step 1 We saw off the canvas of the desired size.

We take an unnecessary old saw for wood and break it. The blade must be of optimal length in order to work not only comfortably, but also productively. It is generally accepted that the most suitable length is 25 centimeters, but you can make it a little wider or narrower - it depends on the physical fitness of the owner of this treasure. We take a grinder, the thinnest grinding disc and cut at an angle of 45 0 to the saw teeth so that this side is shorter. This is done in order to reduce the weight of the metal without reducing the work area.

Step 2 We drill 3-4 holes for fastening.

Step back 2 centimeters from the side of the teeth, take, drill 3-4 holes at a distance of 3-4 centimeters so that they are evenly spaced along the entire length. Similar holes need to be made in a metal corner with shelves 20x20 cm so that they fit under the ones you made near the cloves.

Step 3 Attach the holder.

We take a metal pipe with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 25 cm. It is desirable that it be thick. We hammer one edge with a hammer, 4-5 centimeters of usable area should come out. Here you will need to drill 2 holes on M8 in order to tighten the corner well with bolts. Now we twist everything, we get a canvas with teeth, screwed to a corner that is attached to the pipe.

Step 4 We fasten the wooden stalk.

You can choose the material of your choice. It can be an ordinary pine, oak, maple, clear, but at least larch - the main thing is that you feel comfortable holding it. The workpiece should be 3.5 centimeters in diameter, then we sharpen one edge on an emery (you can just cut it off neatly with a knife), we hammer it into the pipe. So that it does not “run away” back, you need to drill a 6 mm hole in the pipe: you can drill through the workpiece and take it on the bolt, you can only drill 2.5 mm metal, and then hammer in a nail with a diameter of 2.6-3 mm so that it is very tight went into metal and into wood.

Step 5 We saw off the teeth, sharpen the working area

It will be much more convenient to work when the tool is fully assembled. Now you can take the grinder, cut off the "top" of the blade, which is a few dozen teeth. Some gardeners leave them on purpose, use this surface to loosen the topsoil after rain - very effectively. Using a grinding disc, we sharpen the working blade. Then it will be possible to “customize” it with ordinary files. A homemade chopper will turn out to be very light, sharp, durable.

We make a powerful hoe-hoe from an old shovel

Every farmer has an old bayonet shovel on the farm, the blade of which, as a rule, is broken in half. This is the most vulnerable place when digging up hard ground or harvesting potatoes - it rarely goes more than 1-2 seasons. Throwing away this scrap metal is not worth it, because you can make an excellent chopper out of it to eliminate any kind of weeds in the garden. How to make a chopper with your own hands? Let's consider in detail.

Step 1 We cut off the part of the shovel we need.

We take a grinder and a thin grinding wheel, cut off 1/3 of the shovel blade from the sharp end. It is desirable to cut evenly so that the top does not have to be leveled later. In order not to get hurt on the cut, you need to sand the edges with emery.

Step 2 We bend the pipe in the form of the letter G.

We need a pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm, thick-walled (metal 2-3 mm thick is desirable), we leave one edge as it is, hammer the other edge, make it flat. We retreat from this edge 5 cm, bend it at a right angle.

Step 3 Attach the holder to the blade.

We drill 2 holes in the flattened edge of the pipe and exactly the same on top of our blade (we retreat 2-3 centimeters from the cut). We take on rivets or just on bolts, you can tighten the self-tapping screw with an ordinary

Step 4 We attach a wooden stalk.

It's very simple, we select the workpiece with a slightly larger diameter than the pipe hole, sharpen one edge, stuff it. In order for the handle not to slip during operation, it must be fixed. This can be done with a nail (drill a small hole in the metal), a bolt. To install the clamp (instead of bolts), you need to saw the pipe lengthwise by 4-5 centimeters, then hammer in the handle and pull the 2 halves of the pipe with a rigid steel clamp.

A do-it-yourself chopper will have a solid weight, it will be very strong, reliable, durable. It is suitable not only for removing large weeds in the garden, but also for deep loosening of row spacing by 7-12 centimeters. Due to its specific shape, it digs much deeper into the ground than a regular, even blade.

We make a chopper from a piece of tin

If you do not have a bad shovel or saw, you can use an ordinary piece of metal as a blade. Strong steel, about 2 mm thick, is best suited so that the work area has a solid weight. It should be remembered that iron should be perfectly sharpened, since with prolonged use, sooner or later this will have to be done. Now let's move on to the manufacturing process.

With the beginning of the spring season, the owners of garden plots have a lot of worries. It's time to prepare a place for. Then, in order to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.

For all these processes, certain tools are used that can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual, and are the fruits of the creative approach of experienced gardeners to difficult work on the ground. How you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands, in order to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land, will be discussed in this publication.

Where to begin?

As you know, almost all garden equipment is made of metal, so a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them will be required for work. If there are no problems with this issue, it remains only to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey in the independent manufacture of metal products, it makes sense to provide a list of the minimum required:

• Usually, every economic owner of a private house has this device, since there are always a lot of works on the site for which it is necessary.
• Before starting welding of metal parts, it is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work is done, remove the remaining slag. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be manual or in the form of attachments for a drill or grinder.
• A slag hammer will be required to remove slag from the seam.
• Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used to brand seams and cut out defective places, as well as to remove frozen metal splashes.
• Templates, a ruler, a square, a scriber, a tape measure, as well as other measuring tools are used in assembly operations, in preparing parts of a future structure for welding.
• A grinder-"grinder" with circles for metal will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
• Personal protection kit. This is a welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothes made of dense natural fabric can be used.
• Metal table or goats for welding.

Welding operations require a certain amount of experience

The acquisition of the apparatus does not at all make its owner a welder. It is necessary to "fill your hand" well, starting with the simplest seams. And we must be prepared for the fact that it will not turn out right away, patience, diligence, perseverance are required. - read in a special publication of our portal.

If these tools are available, and there is enough experience in welding, it's time to choose a product for manufacturing. A drawing of a future fixture can be found or developed independently, to the best of your ability.

A few useful ideas will be suggested below. They can be taken as a basis and, if desired, improved according to your own understanding.

Custom garden tool available for DIY

Today, manufacturers of gardening tools, given the hard work of tillage, have developed and offer the consumer a considerable number of different devices that not only dig up, but also loosen the ground, while removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing the beds, save your back from excessive stress.

Some of these "small-mechanization" tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.

Miracle Shovel

This tool has appeared in commercials for garden tool manufacturers relatively recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for more than a year, having made it on their own. And, I must say, only praising its efficiency and convenience.

As soon as they don’t call this invention - both “miracle pitchforks” and a cultivator cultivator. But no matter what name is attributed to him, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the work of the gardener.

There are several varieties of "miracle shovels", differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems easier to perform and convenient to use.

The first version of the "miracle shovel"

This is the most popular version of this tool. It can be found ready-made in specialized stores or at gardening fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.

The shovel consists of the following parts:

1. Working forks.
2. Front stop.
3. Back stop.
4. Front stop forks.
5. Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
6. Shank.
7. Lever mechanism.

The "operating manual" of this tool can be presented as follows:

• The shovel-ripper is taken by the handle and installed on the soil on the front stop.
• Further, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back gauge also touches the ground.

• Then the stalk of the shovel goes down with a little effort on itself. Due to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, raising the soil layers.

• The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. At the same time, the soil layer does not have to be turned over, so that the fertile layer will not be disturbed in it.
• After that, the shovel moves to the next section, and the operations are repeated.

This version of the shovel is designed for digging the soil to a maximum depth equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the working fork tines are 250 mm long and 430 mm wide.

This figure shows the "miracle shovel" disassembled, and the arrows show the process of its assembly. This visual instruction will help you assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.

In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:

• To make a working pitchfork, you will need:

- a piece of steel corner 20 × 20 × 4 mm or a profile pipe 20 × 20 mm, 460 mm long;

- a piece of a round pipe ½ inch, 220 ÷ 250 mm long - for making a tuleyka;

- two metal plates 100 × 40 × 4 mm in size - for fixing the body on the frame of the front stop;

- six pieces of steel round (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better - a square bar with a section of 8 × 8 mm, 240 mm long.

• For the manufacture of an emphasis frame with front forks, it will be necessary to prepare the following parts:

- for supporting so-called skis, two pieces of a round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm are required;

- the cross member on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of a profile pipe 460 mm long and 20 × 20 mm in cross section;

- the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;

- a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter for connecting the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;

- for the support part, you will need a corner measuring 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;

- six pieces of a round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.

- reliable wooden stalk.

Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:

Illustration
	The first step is to mark and cut with a grinder parts for the design of the shovel. It is best to prepare the working fork elements first, and then the base frame. Further, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work.
	First of all, the base frame and front forks are made. In order to make a pitchfork, the pipe is marked for holes, which must be located in increments of 65 mm. Non-through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the marked centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks.
	Further, “skis” are prepared for welding, that is, the side parts of the support frame. One edge of these skids should have a slight curve for better gliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to retain the given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, stepping back from one of the edges of 100 mm, due to which the necessary curvature is given to the pipe. Then the incision is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a notch by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender.
	The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the "ears" - these are two metal plates measuring 300 × 20 × 4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinged connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, steel angles with holes of the required size can be used.
	The distance between the "ears" should be 100 mm.
	The next step is to weld the back stop to the profile pipe, on the other side of it, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner.
	Now that all the details of the support frame are ready, they are assembled into a common structure by welding. It is very important to set the crossbars of the frame in relation to it at a right angle, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough.
	Next, a shell for a working fork is made, it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be fixed. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as the master did in this case, or you can leave the diameter the same along the entire length. Stepping back from the upper edge of the body of 50 mm, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a swivel joint with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the corner later, after fitting the mount.
	When the tuleyka is ready, they try it on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwing it onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end.
	If everything works as it should, it remains only to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm.
	But before welding the teeth on the corner, they must be prepared, as they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. There are two ways to sharpen the ends of square rods - forging or neat trimming and stripping. For forging, the metal will have to be red-hot, and then on the anvil to give the ends the desired shape with a hammer. This is quite skillful work, in addition, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, it remains to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off a part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can turn to a turner who will work on a lathe.
	You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done with a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth to the corner. The fork can also be bent with a hammer, laying them with teeth on a template.
	As a result of the performed operations, a comfortable, relatively light construction is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away at the end of the place of work. The rest of the time it will not be necessary to raise it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “ski” runners.

The manufacturer of this "miracle shovel" honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up the wet earth, and he did not succeed. It turned out that the earth was stuck between the teeth, and the runners were moving heavily on wet ground.

Therefore, given his mistakes, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. Dry soil is excellently dug up with this tool, even if it is already “obscenely” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, while the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug-up beds, you still have to bend down.

Prices for miracle shovels

miracle shovel

Second option

In addition to this model, there are other models of "miracle shovels". For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.

This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle that allows you to work without bending down. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking teeth into the ground.

The disadvantage of this “miracle shovel” option is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, it is additionally necessary to break the clods and grind them with a rake.

Third option

Another design that can rather be called an improved pitchfork for digging the earth. But it will also make the job easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the ground, the pedal assists in applying proper foot force. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for the application of force through the lever-handle hinged to it. This greatly facilitates the lifting of the excavated earth.

A similar version of the tool can be bought ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - to purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal hinged to a clamp attached to the handle.

In the illustration above, not only is the design of the pedal clearly visible, but also the dimensions of all the parts necessary for the manufacture of the instrument are given.

Cultivator "Tornado"

Among gardeners, the Tornado cultivator began to enjoy wide popularity. It is actively advertised in TV and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this tool. Therefore, it is worth trying your hand at making it.

The design of the "Tornado" is simpler than the "miracle shovel" and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal crossbar handle.

If you decide to make a cultivator yourself, in order to simplify the task, you can use commercially produced pitchforks as a basis, which have a very affordable cost. The main thing is to choose a quality option when purchasing this tool. Today there are a lot of products on the market, the metal of which will not endure manipulations for alteration - steel does not stand up to criticism.

"Tornado" can be made immediately to your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There are many options here. For example, a collet with a threaded sleeve (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the sliding part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.

The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to make this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.

As can be seen in the drawings and photos, the teeth of the “crab” have arcuate bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in the finished product they form an oval or round inner space.

The teeth are welded in such a way that they form a kind of square around the rack. That is, the fixation of each of them does not occur pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. You can first weld a square steel plate 5 ÷ 6 mm thick to the lower end of the pipe-rack, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” withstands high loads during tool operation.

The teeth of the “crab” are narrowed, thanks to which they easily drive into the soil and do not deform. But there is no special need to hone them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the "crab" can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, the loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.

"Tornado" is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.

The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the "crab" perpendicularly on the soil surface, followed by turning the tool 60 degrees while pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, as it should work as a convenient and effective lever.

Prices for the Tornado cultivator

Other tillage tools Tornado

Models with different handle shapes are produced, therefore, with self-production, you can choose the best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend towards itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the steering wheel from an old bicycle as a handle.

In a word, a skilled craftsman is quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for himself.

Fokine flat cutter

Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.

This simple tool can do the following:

• Efficient removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact size and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between cultivated plants without damaging them.
• The loosening of the beds can be done at different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
• Hilling plants is also within the power of this small tool.
• Forming beds and maintaining their shape during the season, as well as much more.

Find out about the available arrangement options from our new article on our portal.

For the manufacture of a flat cutter, a metal strip 3 mm thick is required, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of bumps and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to fix the nozzle on the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, with a blowtorch.

To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order of their execution is shown in the illustration below.

After the metal has cooled down, the edges of the working area of ​​the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.

After that, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be bought quite inexpensively at a hardware store. The bar must be well cut, chamfered, deburred, sanded with sandpaper. After that, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screwed. Many owners are limited to fixing a flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.

The tool is quite light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of all ages.

Fokin flat cutter prices

Fokine flat cutter

It is also easy to use a flat cutter. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the soil to a depth of 40 mm, set parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin loosening or cutting the root system of weeds.

With proper manufacture and operation, a flat cutter plate sharpened on both sides is capable of self-sharpening. If, nevertheless, the tool becomes dull, then periodically it can be sharpened with a grinder or file.

Equipment for planting potatoes

To facilitate the planting of the most popular root crop, craftsmen invented special devices, the so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized planting devices are also made, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden, greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.

The simplest marker device for quick planting potatoes

Markers are designed to create depressions in the dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.

The presence of two or three cone heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So, in order to plant a sufficiently large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, joint actions of only two people will be required. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws potato tubers into them and covers them with earth from above. The recesses themselves are small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.

The device itself has a very simple design, which can be easily made at home. This will require a frame with a comfortable handle on which cone markers are welded.

As a handle, you can use parts of the back of an old metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand pads on it.

For the lower horizontal crossbar, on which the cones will be fixed by welding, a profile pipe is suitable, for example, 10 × 20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.

The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a rod of reinforcement - it only acts as a guideline when maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.

A more complex version of the planter

Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves the simultaneous digging of a hole and planting a tuber.

How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For the manufacture of this planter model, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm is required. On the pipe on both sides, it is immediately necessary to make markings for the holes. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled through them.
	To make drilling the pipe easier, it is placed on a convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly fulfills the role of not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before starting drilling, holes are marked with a core, which will also facilitate drilling in a semi-circular surface. Holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size.
	For the manufacture of a conical detachable part of the planter, a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick is required. On the sheet, two triangles with a cut top are marked. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base must be 180 mm long and the cut must be 20 mm. The lined parts must be carefully cut out with the help of a grinder.
	The result is two triangles with a cut top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be fixed, and the other side will be able to move in a hinged mount. For the manufacture of the fixed part, a smaller part is used.
	To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on the anvil, but if it is not there, a section of the rail comes to the rescue again. Giving the necessary shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, with which one or the other side of the part is knocked out.
	In the course of giving the parts the necessary bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe.
	The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will turn out to be a half of the cone converging towards the center. In order to achieve such an installation of the part, it will be necessary to trim the edges in its lower part. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined.
	Along the marking lines, the part is cut off with the help of a grinder.
	This is the position in which the fixed part of the planter cone should be, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible.
	Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is fitted and adjusted.
	However, a more accurate adjustment can only be made after fixing the fixed part of the cone to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe.
	The illustration clearly shows that the corners of the movable side of the cone are on the pipe. It is from them that you need to get rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter.
	Before removing them, it is necessary to mark up, and then cut off the excess parts with the help of a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the pipe wall, then the movable part should bend around it, slightly finding it from the outside, as it will open.
	As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with which the movable part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - an “ear”, made of metal with a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the pipe walls.
	For screwing the "ears" to the pipe, bolts 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter and 10 ÷ 15 mm long are used. It is better to grind their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and the hole drilled in the “eye”, and are attracted by washers and nuts on top of it.
	The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving mm the shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded on them.
	Now the upper side of the "lugs" can be grabbed with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When fixing them, you may have to correct the closure of the two halves.
	Next comes the manufacture and welding of planter handles. This will require a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch, and the length should be comfortable for work. One end of the pipe is cut at an angle, as it will be fixed to the planter body. You can also choose the slope yourself, but in this case, the position of the handle relative to the body falls at an angle of about 20 degrees.
	The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it, attracted to the pipe, will open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35 ÷ 40 degrees.
	If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite convenient, then its position can be corrected.
	To do this, an incision is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and is attracted closer to the planter body. Then, along the fold, the handle is boiled.
	Now the product is being tested again. In this case, the builder found that the planter was opening too wide, so a stop bolt had to be included in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, due to which the planted tuber or a glass of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground.
	To do this, a nut is welded to the handle, fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiter bolt is screwed.
	Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing and unscrewing this limiter, it will be possible to adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth.
	A plate is welded to the rear side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transferring the force of the foot. Since a rather high load will fall on the pedal, the plate must be strengthened by welding a jib to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body.

This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for such devices, but they all work on the same principle.

Devices for manual harvesting of root crops

There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also "mechanisms" for its convenient and quick harvesting. So, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device captures the soil not from one, but from two sides at once, easily bringing tubers to the surface.

The digger has a not too complicated design, which can be assembled independently. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary pitchforks. In addition to them, for the formation of handles, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720 ÷ 950 mm are required. And yet - a metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for the manufacture of the crossbar.

1. Fork teeth.
2. Crossbar.
3. "Ears" welded to the pitchfork.
4. Bolt M10.
5. Potato digger handles.

The tool is made in the following order:

• Wooden cuttings are taken from the forks of the pitchfork.
• Under the shells, in the middle part of the forks, two “lugs” with a diameter of 11 ÷ 12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that a crossbar freely stands between them.
• On the underside of the crossbar, along its short edges, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded. Through them and the "lugs" mounted on the forks, a hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass.
• Next, tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put hose sections on the bent ends. So the hands will not slip during the work.
• And, finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork shells.

Everything, the design is ready to work. The forks of the digger are bred in an open position and set above the potato bush. Further, stepping on the crossbar, they drive the pitchfork into the ground. After that, the handles are spread apart, that is, the forks at the same time approach each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents up. In this case, the teeth engage the root system and tubers of the bush. The digger, together with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, the loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging potatoes with such a homemade digger, its tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not move.

It is not recommended to dig up potatoes with a digger (as, indeed, with a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticky soil.

* * * * * * *

As can be seen from the foregoing, if the owner wishes and the tools are available, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves a lot of money. And especially - if the "stash" of the master has many materials necessary for work.

The variety of home-made means of "small-scale mechanization" of horticultural work, of course, is not limited to the examples shown. If you wish, you can find other useful devices, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if someone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - an interesting video about another useful tool - a cultivator. Fire will be an excellent assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.

Video: Homemade hand cultivator for fast and efficient weeding

" Potato

Smooth lines of potato bushes look very beautiful, showing order, and forming comfort for self-hilling or with the help of a cultivator. Unpleasant routine activities with the help of certain devices for self-landing can become a fun, unpretentious and enjoyable activity, and designing your necessary hand equipment is a process of technical creativity.

Today there are special devices - a marker, a scriber, hedgehogs, a plow for planting and weeding potatoes. They will greatly facilitate the work of the gardener. Work, when using these simple devices, is much faster, and the result is the same productive, high-quality, if it were done by hand.

A marker is a device that is necessary to facilitate manual planting activities, as well as to ensure that the beds are even, with evenly distributed holes for potatoes. As a result, such beds are not difficult to process with mechanized or manual devices.

Today you can buy ready-made markers, but it is better to make a home-made fixture, then the distance between adjacent plows, for organizing holes for planting, will fully correspond to the distance between the wheels of a motor cultivator or tractor.

Markers can be elementary or very complex. You can make them from any material that is at hand:

• Wooden stakes;
• Durable board;
• Special or round pipes made of metal.

It does not matter what the handle of the device or the frame will be made of, the main thing is the distance between the components that make the holes.

Elementary Marker

This is a wooden stake about 90 centimeters high and about 60-70 millimeters in diameter.. A horizontal bar, which is fixed at a height of about 150 millimeters from the base, will serve as a support that limits the depth of the hole. Before you start working with this device, you need to make outlines of future holes with twine. It is stretched along the length of the rows at a distance of about 40, 50, 60, 70 or 80 centimeters between the beds.

The distance between the beds depends on the subsequent method of cultivating the land, manual or mechanized. The gap between the pits in a row is about 30 centimeters, depending on the size and variety of potatoes to be planted.

Mittlider Marker

This is a more complex version of the marker, which is made from a pipe, with an outer Ø 21 mm. The distance between the holes in this case will be equal to 29 centimeters. The cone with which the holes are made is made from a pipe Ø 55-65 millimeters. It needs to be welded to the frame.

On the initial row, the frame is placed parallel to the twine and, applying the necessary force, is immersed in the soil. Then we put a cone in the hole that we have outlined, and so we continue. In another row, holes are made like on a chessboard. A marker made using this method allows you to plant potatoes in small areas. while getting a high yield.

Three holes at the same time

This model consists of metal pipes and 3 cones.

The welded frame of the marker is made of a special light and strong pipe measuring 25x25x2 mm. To do this, you can take an ordinary steel pipe Ø 32 mm, which is used for water supply or gas pipelines. Cones are made of aluminum or acacia wood, oak.

A hole is made in the cylindrical part and an M8 thread is cut. Three such through holes Ø 9 millimeters are made in the pipe. Through these holes, the cones are attached to the frame with M8 bolts. With the help of bolts measuring 40-80 millimeters, you can adjust the depth of the hole. The distance between the cones is 45 centimeters. In order not to get injured, plugs must be put on the open ends of the carrier pipe. Bolt heights may vary. This will depend on the depth of the hole required. The larger the bolt, the wider the possibilities.

Cones made of wood must be treated with sandpaper, varnished or varnished, so that the soil does not stick to them when working. All metal components must be treated against corrosion. The height of the frame must be done according to your height. The values ​​​​indicated in the drawing are suitable for a summer resident with a height of 175 centimeters.

Scriber for planting potatoes

Planting potatoes with a scriber will shorten this process by several times. Everything is done easily and without straining. It is not difficult to make it, any man will be able to do it and will take no more than 2 hours.

To make it, you will need two stakes Ø 10 centimeters and two boards one and a half meters long. Stakes are made from dried bars or not thick spruce trunks. They need to be processed, sharpened the edges and made handles. Then nail wooden crossbars to them.

It is necessary to make the required distance between the stakes. If subsequently the potatoes are processed by a mini-tractor, then the distance should be approximately 65-70 centimeters, if by a cultivator, then a distance equal to 60 centimeters will be rational. When manually processing, the stakes must be placed at a distance of 45-55 centimeters.

The board from below must be nailed with a margin on which you want to install a note from a narrow rail. It is done at the same distance as the stakes. With its help, determine the beginning for the pits.

Handles need to be made for yourself, so that later there are no problems when working. The board from below must be installed so that, when pressed on it, a hole is obtained, about 10-15 centimeters deep.

The idea of ​​​​working with the help of a scriber is as follows: placing it on the edge of the site, you need to hold it with your hands by the handles in front of you. Then press on the board from below, while the stakes sink into the soil, and the mark leaves a mark. Then they move it with their hands, making movements back and forth in order to increase the pits. You should get two ridges of holes, and the third ridge will be a note from which you need to follow, but in the other direction, setting the stake to the mark.

At the same time, a person who plants potatoes follows the marker. The whole process is fast and easy. Use this technique and make your work on the site easier.

Homemade manual plow

When the time comes for planting potatoes, summer residents act according to the following scheme: they make markings for planting, dig holes with a shovel, put potatoes in them and then fall asleep with their hands. While the potato is growing, it must be spud, more often it is done with a chopper. It takes a lot of time and effort. Today, this process can be facilitated as much as possible.

A manual plow is a very simple device that 2 people work at the same time. It consists of:

• 2 dump body for work, with cutting knife;
• Traction front, for one person to pull it forward;
• rear handles, to control a second person.

He also performs work on cutting rows for planting, helps with hilling potatoes, and also loosens the ground.

In order to make such a device, you will need:

• Hollow pipe for upright Ø2.5 centimeter, about 1 meter long.
• Piece of hollow pipe Ø3/4 inches for making traction front and rear;
• Section of sheet traction 2 mm thick, for the manufacture of dumps;
• For connecting the front rod to the upright a lanyard will be needed which can be replaced with a metal plate with holes to adjust the angle of attack;
• Blowtorch or a gas burner for heating metal on bends;
• Welding equipment;
• For processing joints you need a grinder.

The long pipe must be bent at a distance of about 30 centimeters from the beginning, while the angle should be 10-15 °. A pipe bender will help to make bends. In its absence, you can make a fold in the following way:

• Filling the pipe sand;
• We dress on the edges of the pipe plugs;

We heat the intended place of bending with a blowtorch and begin to bend.

The smaller pipe, like the perpendicular stand, must be bent. To adjust the height, we make holes on the upper edge and the same holes on the vertical section of the proposed fork.

By changing the location of the bolt in the holes, you can change the height of the rack for the comfort of the summer resident.

The front link looks the same as the rear, but differs in size. The height of the handle should be such that the person in front can easily be between the handles, clasping them.

The height of the vertical part should be 60 centimeters, it must be made flat at the ends and holes drilled to connect to the vertical section.

At a distance of 30 centimeters from below, an angle is attached to the vertical rack for front pull. Then, at a distance of 25 centimeters from this hole, the same corner measuring 25x25 is welded to the plug. A hole is also made in it, and it is welded to the rack above the first corner.

2-dump plow

You will need 2 identical plates 2 mm thick. We round the curves on them. Using welding, with even seams, we fasten 2 halves of the plow to a perpendicular stand. We grind them with a grinder so that they are sharp.

Cutting knife

We take the strongest carbon steel. We cut the knife in the form of an arrowhead, sharpen it at an angle of 45 °. This angle will make the knife sharp for a long time. Using welding, we attach it to a vertical rack from below, grind it.

The manual plow is ready to work on the site!

Cultivator hedgehogs for weeding

They remove the grass with roots, unlike flat cutters, which only cut the stems. Hedgehogs row the soil between the rows, because of this, distinct rows and beautiful beds are obtained. The loosened soil allows oxygen and liquid to pass through well, which increases the growth of potato roots, and this is already a guarantee of an excellent harvest.

Weeding with a walk-behind tractor is carried out using certain paws or a rotating cutter. The cutter is rotated by the power take-off shaft. The advantage of the paws is ease of installation and thoroughness in loosening the earth. They loosen the soil at a depth of 4-7 centimeters, depending on its condition.

For work, the legs must be fixed in certain fasteners at a distance equal to the width of the row. Fasteners should have a slight overlap that will cover both legs. Devices can be either one or two-sided. If the device is one-sided, then it is necessary to fasten the legs so that the blades are located towards the aisle.

Paws that have one-sided blades can be installed in another way, which makes it possible to process the ridge simultaneously from two sides.

There is another device for weeding by hand, which is called a weeder. This is a frame, with a knife and a drum. Its wheels are placed in the aisles, the knife cuts the grass, and the spinning drum catches it and throws it back.

Cultivators exist manual, electric with a benzo engine. For weeding, devices with 2 knives are used, which are attached at an angle of 45 °. It is best to carry out weeding with a cultivator, on which three-toothed mini forks are installed instead of knives.

For comfort, these devices are mounted on wheels: the summer resident pushes him, pressing him as close to the garden as possible.

Using a device with a nozzle, the hedgehog immediately weeds and spuds potatoes. The hedgehog consists of 2 cones fixed on the frame. The cone is made of 3 steel wheels with different diameters. Pointed spikes are welded onto the wheels. 2 hedgehogs are attached to the frame, spinning, they hook the grass in parallel and row the soil from row spacing to row.

Electric cultivators are more dynamic, they are used for small gardens. Their main drawback is the need to pull the cable from the outlet, which is not always comfortable. It is more rational to use cultivators with a gasoline engine. But such cultivators are less dynamic than manual cultivators, but the most productive. Hedgehog attachments are put on all types of cultivators. The strength of the engine is selected depending on the state of the earth, the heavier it is, the stronger the device.

Attachments for weeding with a trimmer

For weeding, a trimmer is used, in which the electric motor is located on top. Between rows, weed more often with a head for a trimmer with fishing line.

It happens that a knife of 3 blades is used to remove grass. Steel knives are mounted on a trimmer with a flat stand. If the stand is curved, then plastic nozzles are attached. If the knife hits any obstacle, the device will throw back or break.

In the market or in the store you can buy trimmer attachments with earth cutters, which have the form of discs with curved blades, and are mounted on a single axis. More often in one nozzle there are 4 cutters.

The size, diameter and number of cutters depend on the power of the brushcutter engine. The instructions for use for the nozzle indicate for which lawn mowers it is suitable.

You can’t make the nozzle yourself, because. it is difficult to choose the width and diameter so that it does not break the device. It is impossible to carry out weeding with a trimmer on difficult, clay lands.

Professional summer residents, before using the trimmer, treat all rubbing elements with silicone lubricant.

Rules for processing potatoes using a trimmer:

1. Before processing you need protect your eyes and c, as during weeding the cutters spin at high speed, raising dust and dirt into the air.
2. It is necessary to process the area from weeds when the grass is still small. Processing should be done every two weeks.
3. Weeding is better in the morning, then during the day the grass will dry out and turn into straw.
4. No need to immerse cutters to a depth of more than one and a half centimeters. With this technique, the land is cultivated, and the soil receives oxygen and nitrogen, which works great for potatoes.
5. You can not immerse cutters also because it may damage the device.
6. If the engine on the device is not very powerful, then you need to take a break every quarter of an hour.
7. At the end of the summer season nozzles must be treated with a disinfectant, to remove all germs.

A broken cutter can be replaced with a do-it-yourself cutter. To do this, you need to carve a circle from a steel sheet, and bend the cavity. The diameter cannot be larger than on the used cutters. It is forbidden to put additional cutters on the trimmer axis.

How to make hedgehogs with your own hands, drawings

If the summer resident likes to work with the tool and at the same time saves a lot, then you can make hedgehogs for weeding with your own hands or order them from a metal working organization. First of all, you need to understand how the hedgehogs will work, draw a few drawings. They can be used both on a cultivator and for manual work..

Hedgehogs for working with hands can consist of a device for loosening, a frame and a holder. The ripper is a hollow tube with steel teeth welded to it. It is fixed on a spacer frame and a wooden handle is attached. Using it, you need to roll the ground back and forth, which requires certain physical strength.

There are many versions of hedgehogs for walk-behind tractors and cultivators. Many developers made their own individual devices. The traditional version of the hedgehog is made using steel discs. You will need 3 discs of various diameters:

• 100, 200, 300 mm;
• 240, 180, 100 mm.

The fixture is assembled on a pipe Ø25 mm. Using jumpers, steel disks are fastened together, starting with the largest and ending with the minimum. There are developers who use 5- and 6-hedrons instead of disks. The distance between them should be 18 centimeters, and the maximum disc Ø 36 centimeters. For the teeth, a steel bar is used, cut into 40 pieces.

Approximately for the construction you will need 5 pieces of spikes for a small disk, 10 pieces for a medium one, 15 pieces for a maximum one. It happens that welding of auxiliary spikes on the axle is required. The length of one spike is 14 centimeters.

Today there are several varieties of hedgehogs:

• Rotary. The main task of such hedgehogs is weeding and hilling. They are suitable for any device.
• Cone. Required to remove grass before emergence.

Summing up the results, it can be noted that the use of devices for planting, harrowing, weeding and hilling potatoes in a summer cottage will make this process easy and not laborious. Using a variety of samples, it is safe to say that the harvest will be plentiful and will please the gardener.