What to make drainage in the cesspool. Rapid filling of the cesspool: solutions

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high occurrence of groundwater;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

The surface drainage system is constructed over the area of ​​the site, around the house and buildings adjacent to it, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of ​​tanks and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​​​the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumbljauskas.

Drainage depth, m	Distance between drains, m
	sandy soil	loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out drainage of a land plot through a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining suburban areas of a small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more time consuming and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will drain into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of ​​​​a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other - a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnant water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

One of the most important stages in the arrangement of the bath is the organization of timely disposal of wastewater into a treatment plant. The most affordable option for a sewer system is a drain pit for a bath.

To ensure the safe use of the drainage system, before starting work, it is recommended to carefully study its design features and perform the necessary calculations, and at the construction stage, follow the main recommendations of specialists.

Types of drain holes

There are three types of waste pits: a sealed tank, a drainage pit, and a multi-chamber septic tank.

A sealed cesspool is the simplest and safest construction option, which prevents the penetration of polluting effluents and household chemicals into the soil and aquifer. It is built on land with a high level of groundwater.

The design is represented by a simple sealed tank dug into the ground to the required depth. A feature of the cesspool is the need for regular pumping of accumulated water runoff. The significant disadvantages of a sealed tank include the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

A drainage pit for draining is the most popular option for private baths that do not have bathrooms. In this case, an open container is arranged that does not have a sealed base. A gravel-crushed stone mixture is used as a bottom filter. The design of the drainage pit provides for the presence of special holes necessary for the withdrawal of the purified liquid into the soil.

The primary sealed chamber provides for the collection and initial filtration of wastewater: solid waste sinks to the bottom, and the liquid undergoes additional purification by aerobic microorganisms. The tank is connected to the second compartment by an overflow pipe, which provides the supply of purified liquid. The second chamber performs the function of a drainage pit, where water undergoes secondary purification and is discharged into the soil.

If the septic tank consists of three compartments, then the drainage chamber is installed last. In this case, a deeper purification from impurities and pollutants takes place in the second chamber, after which the purified liquid enters the drainage tank.

Available materials for building a drain pit

The choice of a suitable material for the construction of a drain drainage pit under the bath depends on the design features of the structure, the volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site.

barrel pits

Tanks can be built from barrels, metal and plastic, of various sizes. Such a system involves the use of one or two drainage tanks:

• One container. The bottom of the prepared pit is covered with a drainage mixture of crushed stone and gravel, then a plastic container without a bottom and with a perforated surface is lowered into it. The distance between the barrel and the pit is covered with drainage. A waste pipe is connected to the barrel at an angle. Part of the liquid through the drainage holes will flow into the soil for further cleaning.
• Two containers. Such a system involves the use of two barrels, with the first set 25 cm above the second. The tanks are connected to each other by an overflow pipe. Effluent enters the first tank, in which third-party impurities and solid waste settle. Further, the purified liquid is poured into the second tank, to which perforated pipes for drainage are connected. Waste elements are installed in trenches filled with drainage material and a dense layer of soil.

brick pits

For the arrangement of drain pits, ceramic bricks are used, the laying of which is carried out with small gaps - they provide drainage into the drainage pad and soil. The principle of operation of such a drainage system does not differ from the previous one, the difference lies in the material used. The distance between the brick tank and the earthen base is filled with drainage material designed to clean the drains and distribute them around the perimeter of the pit.

A brick pit is considered more durable and practical than a plastic barrel construction.

concrete pits

With technical equipment and financial capabilities, it is possible to build a drainage pit from concrete rings with a perforated surface, which are mounted in a prepared pit. After the installation of the rings is completed, the bottom of the structure is covered with a drainage cushion made of gravel and crushed stone.

In the case when the depth of the pit is at least 2 meters, and the bottom of the tank is concreted, such a structure can be used both to drain effluents from the bathhouse and to sewer a residential building.

Pits from tires

Cesspools made from used tires are designed to drain liquid waste, so they are well suited for the needs of a bath.

The arrangement of the drain system during the installation of tires can be carried out in various ways, including lateral perforation of the walls, maintaining the technological gap between the installed slopes, cutting the outer walls while maintaining the internal structure of the tires.

This is the simplest and most popular option for organizing drainage under the bath, according to which you can do the work yourself.

Step-by-step arrangement of a drainage pit for a bath

Now let's consider a question that interests many - how to make a drain hole for a bath with your own hands. The easiest option for beginners is a drainage pit from a barrel. A metal barrel with a volume of up to 250 liters is used as a drain tank.

First you need to choose a suitable place for the pit. The distance from the foundation of the bath to the cleaning device should be from 3 to 7 meters. When determining the depth of the sewer pit, it is important to consider the total volume of runoff and groundwater. The optimal value is no more than 7 meters.

The process of arranging a pit for drains provides for a phased implementation of work.

Pit preparation and pipe laying

• Preparation of the construction site for the pit. From the base of the bath, an earthen ditch should be dug, having the necessary slope for convenient drainage. The average slope is 4 degrees per linear meter. The bottom is insulated and covered with drainage from gravel and sand. A drainage pipe is laid on the pillow, connecting the steam room and the waste pit.
• Next, they dig a pit and also insulate. At the bottom, a drainage pillow is made of gravel and crushed stone (thickness up to 25 cm).

Drain tank preparation

• The side surfaces of the barrel are perforated with a grinder in increments of 18 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
• A hole is made in the bottom for mounting the pipe, which will be connected to the drain pipe with a fastening sleeve. The connecting joint is treated with sealant from the inside and outside.
• The barrel is wrapped with geotextile material, which will ensure reliable drainage of wastewater and prevent foreign objects from entering the container. Geotextiles are fixed over the entire surface with twine or construction tape.

Installation of the tank in the pit

• The barrel is installed on a drainage cushion so that the pipe is located on top.
• All formed voids between the walls of the pit and the barrel are covered with fine gravel.
• The branch pipe is connected to the sewer pipe laid earlier.

Features of laying a sewer pipe

Laying a drainage pipe is an important stage in the arrangement. According to building codes, the pipe is laid at the stage of foundation construction. It is located at the bottom of the base with a slope towards the drainage pit. When pipe laying is required for the finished building, installation is carried out under the floor of the steam room.

To properly install the pipe, the following rules must be observed:

1. Bends, turns and joints are not allowed during installation of the product. This can lead to blockages in any part of the pipe.
2. After the installation of the drainage system is completed, a concrete screed of the bath floors is carried out with a slope towards the drain hole. After the screed has completely dried, the floor is tiled or porcelain stoneware, on top of which wooden lattices of a removable type are installed. They will provide protection against burns in direct contact with a heated floor covering. In addition, the grids are easily dismantled for drying and treatment with antiseptic compounds.
3. The drain is closed with a protective grate to prevent possible clogging of the sewer pipe.

Important! Bath floors do not require additional insulation. With high-quality concreting and cladding, such a base warms up during the heating process and prevents the penetration of cold from the outside.

How to make a drain hole for a bath is a question that will not take the owners of such buildings by surprise. After all, it is not difficult to organize a reliable system for draining wastewater from improvised materials and without involving a construction team, the main thing is the attitude and a serious approach to business.

A properly built cesspool has been functioning for years, absolutely not requiring any attention. However, over time, the efficiency of its work decreases and there comes a time when the filling of the sewage tank occurs very quickly. At first, of course, you can save yourself by calling a sewage machine to clean the sewer. When the interval between calls is reduced to several weeks, the understanding comes that the problem cannot be solved by simple pumping out. Meanwhile, there are several very effective methods, ranging from fairly simple to radical ones, the use of which will make the sewer system work with the same strength.

Reasons for fast filling

When equipping a cesspool, a leaky structure with a drainage layer at the bottom is usually used. For a long time, the drainage performed its functions, diverting liquid waste into the ground. Over time, the gaps between its elements became clogged with fat residues, food residues, and simply silt. Spontaneous sealing of the bottom of the pit occurred. As a result of this, wastewater does not have access to the soil layer and simply fills the tank, and since a sewage pit is usually built based on a three-day drain volume, its volume is filled very quickly.

Another reason for the inefficient operation of the sewer system may be its freezing in the winter. Naturally, draining water onto frozen ground will be impossible.

With a decrease in the efficiency of the cesspool, the following signs are observed:

• The walls of the waste sewer tank are covered with fatty deposits, which are quite problematic to wash off;
• Accumulation of bottom sediment;
• A fetid odor from the pit;
• The time to fill the cesspool is reduced to a week or less.

For the normal functioning of the sewage system, it is necessary to properly clean the cesspool and restore its performance.

Sludge removal

The main reason why the normal operation of the sewage tank is blocked is the silting of the bottom. You can overcome this problem in the following way:

• First of all, it is required to pump out sewage using a sewage machine. In order to remove deposits from the bottom of the pit as much as possible, it is necessary to drain the sewage from the machine under pressure. In this case, the upper layer of silt deposits will be eroded and pumped out again by the sewer.

You can mix the bottom sediment well with the help of a long pole with an element in the form of a fungus at its end.

• Fill the bottom with clean water. So they will be further liquefied.
• Add special biological preparations containing bacteria directly into the pit or through the sewerage system. The fact is that bottom sediments are food for many types of microorganisms. After processing, there will be very little solid residue, because the main part of the sludge will turn into a liquid that will successfully go into the soil. It is best to add the biopreparation directly into the pit, splashing it on the walls.

As a result of the use of preparations containing bacteria, they achieve not only liquefaction of the solid sediment and a decrease in the amount of waste in the pit, but also the elimination of bad odors, as well as the restoration of the drainage system.

The positive side of the use of biological preparations is the production of organic substances that are absolutely harmless to humans and nature. They can be easily poured onto the ground.

Sludge can be pumped out not only with the help of special equipment, but also using household fecal or drainage pumps. The former are preferable for compacted sludge, since they have a knife in their design that grinds the solid sediment for its normal passage through the hose. In the process of work, it is better to release sludge into a compost heap and later use it for fertilizer purposes.

Ways to improve efficiency

There are several ways to improve sewerage performance. The work can take from several hours to several days, depending on the degree of complexity.

Improvement of the cesspool to a septic tank

The silting of the bottom of the cesspool can be easily turned to your advantage by using the resulting sealed container as the primary chamber of a simple septic tank. In order to move a step forward in wastewater treatment, you just need to install a filtration well a few meters from the first structure and make an overflow and ventilation system. When doing this work, follow the recommendations of experts:

• You can dig a pit both with the help of earthmoving equipment and manually. The first option is preferable when arranging a septic tank away from buildings. In addition, the earth loosened by an excavator will absorb water much more efficiently. The second method is much cheaper and does not require access roads for construction vehicles. It should also be borne in mind that a manually dug pit will exactly repeat the outlines of the elements for strengthening the walls of the septic tank, so this method is much more effective in hard-to-reach places or near buildings.


• When choosing materials, if possible, preference should be given to prefabricated concrete rings with perforations. They are durable and very effective. Their only drawback is their heavy weight, requiring installation with a crane. The way out of this situation is the manual digging of the rings by the method of gradual selection of soil from under their walls and internal space. Also, to build a filtration well, you can use brickwork with a gap or car tires from trucks.
• The overflow pipe from the waste pit is installed half a meter below the level of the sewer sewer inlet. Usually use products with a diameter of 110 mm. The end of the pipe must be at least 20-25 cm from the inner wall of the filtration well. This requirement is especially important for red brick walls, since its surface will not be destroyed during the draining process. Note that it is better to use rejected burnt bricks. It perfectly copes with moisture and has a low cost.
• When arranging a filtration well, one should not forget about sanitary standards and SNiP, requiring that treatment facilities be located no closer than 30m to a well or well, 1m from the border of a neighboring site and 3-5m from the nearest structure, depending on its number of storeys.

In the process of using an improved cesspool, one should adhere to the same rules as when working with septic tanks - the regular use of biological products, the absence of chemical components of household chemicals in wastewater, and the periodic removal of sludge.

Improvement of filtration parameters

Of course, after completely pumping out the sludge from the bottom of the cesspool, you can use the method of cleaning the drainage with biological products, but nothing will give such an effect as a complete replacement of the drainage layer. Of course, this work cannot be called pleasant, but if you manage to complete it or find a volunteer, you will get an almost new sewer facility. To remove the old drainage, you can use a bucket with a rope and a regular shovel with a short handle. After the old filling is removed, the pit is deepened by 30-40 cm and covered with a 20-30 cm layer of fine gravel, and then a 30-40 cm layer of coarse gravel, fine rubble or broken brick.

If the walls of the cesspool are made of monolithic concrete rings, then perforations can be made in the two lower structural elements. To do this, it is better to use an electric hammer drill or impact drill and a diamond drill with a diameter of 50-80mm. The distance between adjacent holes, as well as between their rows, must be at least 25 cm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure may suffer.

Pit defrosting

In rare cases, the performance of the cesspool is reduced due to the freezing of waste. Often this is not at all due to poor thermal insulation or improper design. It happens that “General Frost” is to blame for all the troubles, and then you have to resort to drastic measures.

In order to not wait for the spring heat in order to defrost the pit, it is necessary to prepare an extension cord, a copper wire, a steel rod 20-30 cm long and a grip.

When carrying out work related to electricity, be sure to follow the safety regulations. Wear electrician's gloves and shoes with thick rubber soles.

If the sewer pipe is frozen, then it is enough to wrap it with a copper conductor, the end of which is connected to the phase wire. After several hours, in the process of current flowing between copper and ground zero, the pipe will warm up and thaw. It is only important to prevent children and animals from entering the working area.

If the entire pit is frozen, then a steel rod is required to be driven into its center, a copper conductor is connected to it and phase voltage is applied. It is possible that it will take not several hours, but a whole day to thaw the pit, but this will happen in any case. After completing the work, it is necessary to turn off the voltage and only then remove the rod with wires.

The efficiency of its work in the future, as well as the frequency of cleaning the sewer system, will depend on the method of restoring the health of the cesspool. The use of biological preparations will help to postpone the call of a sewage truck for a long time, it is only important to adhere to the rules for using a sewage system with a bacterial cleaning method.

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Drainage pit: how to do it right

In every private household with a personal plot, there is an urgent need for processing, purification and disposal of a large amount of various liquids. Effluent comes from treatment facilities such as septic tanks, is collected by storm sewers, and is formed after snow melts. A drainage pit is used to distribute water directed to the ground.

What are drainage holes for?

A drainage pit is intended for partial cleaning and distribution of liquid in the soil layer. High-lying groundwater and excess liquid that is generated by seasonal rains or snowmelt can sometimes create serious problems on the land. In addition, in a country or country house, it is required to resolve the issue of disposal of treated wastewater coming from the sewer system of local importance, for example, a septic tank. See also: "How to make drainage on the site with your own hands - do it right".

The option with a simple discharge of liquid into a nearby local reservoir is not always possible, and it cannot be called acceptable from the point of view of ecology. A smart solution would be to direct the runoff to a drain for a drain pit in the form of a well. In this facility, waste liquid and water undergo additional treatment and are distributed into the ground.

To bring effluents into the drainage of the drain pit, they equip special ditches or supply them through a pipeline from a treatment device.

Device of drainage ditches

Drainage ditches are intended not only to redirect excess water into the drainage pit, but also to partially divert it into the ground. When designing the location of the drainage system, take into account the relief of the land. If there is a difference in height, it is placed perpendicular to the slope. Such a configuration of ditches allows you to significantly lower the level of soil water in the area (read: “ Drainage ditch on the site“).

On a long slope, at least two drainage ditches are organized, they are connected to each other by bypass pipes. The last of the ditches, located at the bottom of the site, should have an exit to the drainage pit (read also: "How to make drainage around the house correctly"). Since leaves and debris enter the drainage system with rain and melt water, it must be cleaned regularly. The design of the drainage ditch (see photo) has been constantly improved and now it is an effective structure, characterized by the simplicity of the device.

How to make drainage ditches on the site

First, they draw up a project, and then they make markings on the plot. At the next stage, trenches are dug, their depth can reach one meter.
Sifted sand is poured into the bottom of the ditch. You can build a drainage ditch either in a closed or open way. In the closed version, a pipe is laid on a sand cushion, which has a perforation in its lower part. With the open method, the ditch is covered with a grate from above, and the walls strengthen it. In this work, plastic or reinforced concrete products are used.

In order to increase the degree of filtration of effluents passing through drainage ditches, a combined filter is arranged, which has a layer of sand in its lower part, on which geotextiles are laid. Then the structure is covered with gravel. The presence of geotextiles and a crushed stone layer prevents erosion of the sand cushion.
If the drainage ditch is laid in dense soil, its walls may not be strengthened, leaving it vertical. When the soil crumbles, it is recommended to make the walls of the ditch flat and certainly strengthen or use ready-made elements.

As for drainage ditches, equipped in an open manner, they are laid in small areas. In addition, they can only be used in the warm season.

A closed drainage system has a more complex design, it allows you to collect water from large areas and can function year-round. It is often made in the form of a Christmas tree, but it must be borne in mind that the cross section of pipes adjacent to the drainage pit should be larger than at their far ends.

Do-it-yourself construction of drainage pits-wells

A drainage pit is intended for water runoff in a summer cottage, its partial cleaning and distribution in the ground. An important point in the arrangement of the well is the calculation of its required volume (for more details: “Device of drainage wells on the site“). It must meet the capacity of the local treatment system and have a reserve for the disposal of melt and rainfall.

If necessary, more than one do-it-yourself drainage pit can be equipped on the site, but several.

Now they can be built using various ready-made structures:

• use old steel barrels. They remove the bottom and lower end part;
• drainage wells have been operated for a long time, for the construction of which reinforced concrete rings are used;
• plastic products are also used for the base of the wells. This option is most acceptable, since their cost is small, they weigh a little, and besides this, plastic is not subject to corrosion.

Well device from old barrels

The current method is considered to be the device of a drainage pit from a previously used barrel. To supply liquid to it, you can use polypropylene pipes with a cross section of 5 centimeters. See also: "Drainage wells with your own hands - how to do it right".

They will be enough to drain water, for example, from a small bath:

1. First, before making a drainage hole, they dig trenches for polypropylene pipes. To use the drainage system in winter, they must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil. Pipes should be additionally insulated with a layer of insulation or a heating cable should be laid along with them.
2. Next, dig a hole for a drainage well. It should be located below the freezing level of the soil, so its depth depends on the region where the site is located.
3. To form the required pipe slope angle, a layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the trenches. Check the correctness of such work using the building level.
4. An old barrel is placed in a well-pit, which does not have a top and bottom lid. Gravel is poured at the bottom. Also, using crushed stone, they equip the backfilling of the pit where the barrel is placed.

We create a cesspool with our own hands without pumping out

When building a private house away from the sewer, the question arises: how to organize the storage and disposal of wastewater. A cesspool is designed to solve this problem. There are two main types of sewage pits: a sealed (or waterproofed) pit and a pit without a bottom (drainage). The sealed pit does not let wastewater into its environment and is designed for areas with sandy soil, it is also designed with a large (more than 1 cubic meter per day) flow volume.

To clean the waterproofed pit twice a month, a special sewage pumping machine is called. The cost of use is expensive. With a small amount of wastewater, a profitable solution would be to build a cesspool without a bottom; such a drainage pit does not require pumping. It is quite simple to design it with your own hands, which will save a lot of money.

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative liability is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen, with a hilly terrain, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the pit has access to a sewage machine for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement instructions:

1. 4-5 meters from a residential building.
2. 3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
3. At least 25 meters from a well, well, spring.
4. 30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the waste pit is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.

Pit volume

To calculate the volume of the waste pit, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. The capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person consumes 170 liters of water per day. Thus, for three people, a sewage pit with a volume of 10 cubic meters is needed.

As experience shows, if the pit is equipped with a good drainage system or is located on sandy soil, a smaller volume of 6-7 cubic meters is quite enough. If you dig a hole with your own hands, it is better to think over the reserve volume in advance so that excess drains do not go beyond the drainage hole and pumping is not needed.

Excavation

Earthwork is best started in the middle of summer, with stable dry weather. A pit is being prepared for the future drain pit. Most often, it measures 2 meters high, wide and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it both with your own hands and with the help of an excavator.

First, the top layer of fertile soil is removed, it is better to distribute it in the garden. Subsequently, the soil is removed. If the soil around the pit is sandy, you should be wary of the collapse of the walls of the pit. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth is reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool must be at least one meter above the autumn/spring groundwater level. The permissible depth of pits of this type is from 1 to 3 meters.

In order for wastewater to quickly leave the pit into the soil and not need to cause pumping, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic fabric (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should overlap the walls of the pit.

Areas adjacent to each other are sewn together. A layer of crushed stone 10 - 20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric. The crushed stone is covered with a second layer of synthetic fabric. The edges of the first and second layers are sewn together or smeared with bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the pit is used.

If a cesspool is created by hand for a country toilet (without pumping out), drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, a layer of crushed stone (20 cm) is poured on top of it.

Connecting a sewer pipe

When mounting a sewer pipe, attention should be paid to the height difference between the level of the end of the pipe in the pit and the level of the pipe in the house. It should not be less than a meter. With a small height difference, the drains will stagnate in the pipe, and blockages are possible.

It is best if the pipe extends outside the house underground. The depth of the pipe should be deeper than the layer of winter freezing of the soil, so that during frosts the drains do not freeze, blocking the pipe. If the pipe comes to the surface, it should be properly insulated.

There are various options for the walls of the cesspool. They are lined with bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of wall material depends on the personal desire of the builder.

brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are lined with bricks. This material has a number of advantages: easy accessibility, ease of laying, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited for arranging a cesspool. Silicate brick is characterized by low moisture resistance, so it should never be used for this purpose. What can not be said about ceramic bricks, its varieties are completely suitable.

Masonry can be done with your own hands, with ordinary mortar, but the bricklayer must leave small gaps between the sides of the bricks and not fill them with cement. This is necessary to filter the effluents and pass them into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry, leave 30 cm of space and fill it with broken bricks, gravel and sand to improve the filtration of runoff water.

Log walls / plank walls

In suburban areas, the walls of cesspools for a street toilet (without pumping out) or others are most often covered with shields from boards, bars, or a small log house is made. This material is less durable, but will cost much cheaper than other analogues. You can deal with the design with your own hands.

If it is decided to line the pit with boards, first prepare 4 large bars. The size is better to choose 10X10. They are covered with a special solution - protection against bark beetles and rot (if the bars are made of larch, protective equipment is not needed, this tree has not rotted for decades). Slightly sharpen one end of each bar, this is necessary when attaching the bar to the ground of the day of the pit. The bars must correspond to the depth and have a margin of length to deepen them into the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are placed at the corners of the pit and fixed, you can start mounting the boards. The strongest and thickest boards (if different sizes are used) are placed closer to the bottom of the pit, later it is at the very bottom that the earth will exert the strongest pressure on the walls. The boards covered with a special protective solution are nailed so that the bars are inside the wooden box.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of 1-2 cm between the boards to allow runoff water to enter the soil. It is much more convenient to put together a wooden box outside the pit, and then lower it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the mass of the structure will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! A log cabin is constructed in a similar way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the logs will significantly reduce the volume of the drain pit. To avoid this, it is necessary to review the volume of the pit.

Walls made of concrete rings

For long-term use of the drain pit, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

It will not work to create a structure from concrete rings with your own hands; you need to take care of their purchase in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance in which ring and where the hole for the pipe will be, it is punched out before immersion. When there are rings, the question arises: how to lower them into the hole (It is worth remembering that the hole should not be completely dug out at the time the first ring is lowered). There is a wide range of possibilities here, from the use of a crane (the mass of one ring reaches 600 kg) and winches, to self-immersion of the rings. A more economical option would be to deal with this problem yourself.

First, a pit is dug with a height equal to the height of one concrete ring. One of its edges is made partially flat (beveled) for a convenient descent of the structure. A ring is rolled up to the beveled edge in such a way that the axis of the ring is directed towards the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever made of a bar (recommended length of 3 m), the ring is turned over, dragged to the sloping edge and gently slides down in a vertical position. For the convenience of descending on a gentle edge, you can lay out boards. After the first ring has taken its position, the builder goes down and begins to deepen the hole from the inside of the ring.

Gradually, with an increase in the depth of the pit, the ring will smoothly settle. After that, the same operation is performed with the next ring. It is very important to monitor the strictly horizontal level of the structure when deepening the pit. After lowering all the rings, holes are drilled in their walls (recommended 5 cm) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for the release of sewage.

Slate wall construction

A simple and original way is to lay out the walls of the drain pit with slate sheets. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is quite fragile, which must be considered when choosing. The design will not be complicated, you can handle it yourself. Produce a blank of four iron corners (longitudinally bent strip of metal), holes are drilled in them for future fastening.

Four sheets of slate (it is better to choose a special flat one, and not wavy for roofs, wavy is less durable) are lowered into the pit. Next, assembly is carried out: corners are screwed to the slate leaves with self-tapping screws (to two leaves on the opposite side), all slate leaves are screwed together and the frame is ready. Holes are drilled to release wastewater.

This information will be useful not only for the improvement of the summer cottage, but will also help to design a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping, which will significantly save the cost of its construction.

Drainage pit - purpose and installation on the site

In any private house with a garden plot or in a well-maintained dacha, there is a large amount of liquid that needs to be processed, cleaned or disposed of. Effluent can come from local treatment facilities - septic tanks, be formed after the passage of rains and snow melt and be collected by storm sewers. Drainage pits are used to distribute water to the ground.

Purpose of drainage pits

The main purpose of the drainage pit is the partial cleaning and distribution of water in the soil. High ground water and excess fluid from heavy rains or spring snowmelt can create serious problems on a site. In addition, in a private house, it is necessary to resolve the issue of disposing of the purified liquid coming from the local sewage treatment system, for example, a septic tank.

A simple discharge of water into a nearby reservoir is not always possible, and this option is also unacceptable from the point of view of environmental safety. It is more reasonable to direct such drains to a drainage well-pit. In such a facility, water and treated effluents will undergo additional treatment and be distributed to the ground.

Tire drainage pit

To supply water to the drainage pits, drainage ditches are arranged or the liquid is supplied directly from the treatment device through the pipeline.

How to build drainage ditches on the site

Drainage ditches can serve not only to direct excess water into the drainage pit, but also to partially drain water into the ground.

When planning the location of drainage ditches, it is necessary to take into account the relief of the personal plot. So, if there is a height difference on the site, then the ditch should not be located along the slope, but perpendicular to it. This configuration of drainage ditches can significantly reduce the level of soil water in the area.

On a long slope, two or more drainage ditches can be arranged. Between themselves, such structures can be connected by bypass pipes, and the last ditch, located in the lowest part of the site, will have an outlet directly to the drainage pit-well.

The creation of a drainage ditch is only the initial stage of its operation. Melt and rainwater carry a large amount of pollutants, fallen leaves and just garbage. All this requires regular cleaning of the drainage ditch.

Drainage ditches with geotextile

The design of the drainage ditch was worked out in practice by many generations of builders. This is a fairly simple, but at the same time effective structure. Modern industry has mastered the production of many materials that have significantly increased the efficiency of such structures.

Construction of a drainage ditch on a personal plot

1. The initial stage of construction is the preparation of the project and its marking on the ground.
2. Then trenches are dug. Their bottom can reach the depth of near-surface groundwater, which is about one meter. The level of the ditch may be below this level. The deeper you dig the ditch, the lower the new groundwater level will be in your area.
3. At the bottom of the drainage ditch, a pillow of sifted sand is poured.
4. There are two main options for constructing a drainage ditch. When using the closed method, a pipe is laid directly on the sand cushion, in the lower part of which there are numerous perforations. The water discharged through such a pipe enters the holes and enters the soil through the sand of the pillow. With an open method of construction, the ditch is covered from above with a grate, and its walls are strengthened.
5. For the construction of open drainage ditches, ready-made reinforced concrete or plastic structures can be used.

Closed drainage ditch

For more efficient filtration of runoff passing through the ditch, a combined filter can be installed at the bottom of the trench. In the lower part, such a filter has a layer of sand, on top of which a layer of geotextile is laid. Then the fabricated structure is covered with a crushed stone layer. The use of geotextiles and gravel prevents the sand cushion from being washed away by the incoming water flow.

If you are laying a drainage ditch in dense soil, such as clay, then its walls may not be strengthened, leaving them sheer. In the case of the formation of a ditch in crumbling sandy soil, the walls of the ditch must be made flat, strengthened or use ready-made structures.

The system of drainage ditches of an open type is usually equipped only in small areas of the area, for example, summer cottages. In addition, an open drainage ditch can only function in the warm season.

A more complex design of closed-type drainage ditches allows you to collect water from large areas, partially remove moisture from local sewage treatment plants and work year-round.

Structurally, closed drainage ditches are generally similar to open ones, but the location of the perforated pipes below the ground and soil water levels makes it possible not to focus on all changes in the relief of the site.

Scheme of laying a closed drainage system

A closed drainage system may have a herringbone configuration. If you decide to build a system according to this scheme, then keep in mind that in areas adjacent to the drainage well-pit, the cross section of the pipes should be larger than at the "ends of the branches". In this case, you can prevent clogged pipes and stagnation of drained water in them.

How to build a drainage well

The drainage well-pit serves to collect all the discharged water on the site, partially clean it and distribute it into the soil.

An important stage in the construction of a drainage pit-well is the calculation of its required volume, which must correspond to the capacity of the local local treatment system and have the necessary reserve for the disposal of melted or rainwater.

If necessary, several drainage pits-wells can be organized on the site.

Pit drainage wells can be built using various prefabricated structures:

• you can use old steel barrels. in which the bottom and lower end are removed;
• for a long time, drainage wells built from prefabricated reinforced concrete elements - rings ;
• can also be used as the basis for the design plastic pipes of large diameter or ready-made plastic wells. This construction option is most preferable, since plastic is absolutely not prone to corrosion, ready-made plastic structures are quite cheap and light in weight, which allows them to be installed independently.

Construction of a drainage pit from an old barrel

To supply water to such a drainage pit-well, pipes made of polypropylene with a cross section of 5 centimeters can be used. Such a pipe is quite enough, for example, to drain wastewater from a small bath.

Trench for pipe

A polypropylene pipe is laid in the dug trenches. If you use the bath exclusively in the warm season, then the pipes can not be buried. In order to use the bathhouse and drainage system in the cold season, the liquid outlet pipes must be deepened below the freezing level of the soil, insulated with an additional layer of insulation or a heating electric cable should be laid along with them.

Digging a pit for a drainage pit. Such a structure must be mandatory for year-round use buried below the freezing level of the soil. The depth of the pit will vary depending on the region of construction.

Pit under the drainage pit-well

The ditch for the pipes should go to the drainage pit

To form the required slope of the pipes, a cushion of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the ditch. The required slope of the ditch is checked using the building level.

Gravel pad at the bottom of the ditch

Slope control with building level

The slope continues to the very drainage pit

Barrel as the basis of a drainage pit

An old metal barrel without a top and bottom cover is installed at the bottom of the pit. Its bottom is covered with rubble. Also, backfilling of the pit for the barrel is formed from crushed stone.

Conclusion of the drainage pipe to the pit

Laying a drainage pipe in a trench

We assemble a structure from pipes. After the construction of the system, it is covered with soil.

The installation site of the drainage pit is covered with soil

As you can see, the construction of a drainage pit-well on your personal plot is available even to unskilled specialists. This is a fairly simple structure that can be built even by one person in one or more days.

Some of the nuances of the arrangement of drainage pits-wells are given in the video file.

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In most cases, sewerage in the country is not provided. Instead, a cesspool is used. There are quite a few options for its construction, and each has both its advantages and disadvantages. Next, we will consider in detail the typical designs of cesspools and analyze the methods of their installation.

1. Drainage pit device
2. Types of drain holes
3. We make a drain hole from concrete
4. Brick drain hole
5. Temporary drain holes
6. Drain hole without a bottom
7. Useful tips for arranging a drain pit

What is a drain pit and why is it needed

A drain pit, or as it is also called a cesspool, is necessary for private houses that do not have a direct sewer supply. The right drain pit recycles waste, allowing some substances after processing to soak into the ground without harm to it.

The popularity of this type of treatment plant is due to the ease of installation and the speed of work. One person without assistants is able to complete all the work within 3-5 days, depending on the type of construction.

On the other hand, there are certain difficulties associated with the further operation of the cesspool. First of all, this concerns the issue of pumping sewage. Equally important is the correctly selected volume of the pit.

Drainage pit device

The simplest designs that are most often found in rural houses and simple suburban areas are digging into the ground an old barrel or tank that has served its time. Such a design will allow for the collection and partial filtration of wastewater, provided that their daily amount does not exceed 1 m³. Such schemes have not received approval from the sanitary services, as they can harm the environment.

The simplest drain pit in a private house is a simple design. Through the sewer pipe, although direct flow is often encountered, sewage enters a container, the bottom of which is covered with silt. The drain pit should be equipped with a gas outlet pipe through which the methane generated during the waste processing process will go outside.

Such a system is completely unsuitable for those houses in which permanent residence is planned. Taking into account the fact that the average daily water consumption for a family of four is up to 1 cubic meter, this leads to the need for frequent cleaning of the cesspool, and, accordingly, to financial costs. Previously, a ubiquitous method of removing sewage into the soil with their subsequent natural filtration was widespread, but in the current realities, this method, for obvious reasons, is prohibited by the sanitary service.

However, such a design is quite common, and will not have any special alternatives for suburban areas with infrequent attendance. It is easy to equip it on your own, but you need to consider the following points:

• The walls of the pit will require strengthening, as the water will gradually collapse the structure. To prevent this, they install a tank, or they build walls of brickwork or concrete rings.
• The volume of the cesspool should be at least three cubic meters. The correct calculation is made taking into account the fact that each person will need at least one cubic meter of space.
• Installed ventilation will increase the rate of waste recycling.
• If an overflow pit is being equipped, then it practically does not need to be cleaned, since its design assumes the presence of several chambers for waste processing. In this case, sewage enters the first chamber, in which they accumulate. After the level of sewage reaches the overflow partition, they will flow into the second pit and there they will already be absorbed into the ground. The solid waste remains in the first pit and is processed by the bacteria.

Types of drain holes

According to the type of execution, cesspools are divided into:

• concrete storage,
• brick,
• with a receiving container
• temporary
• with timber formwork,
• without a bottom, with the output of waste moisture directly into the ground.

We make a drain hole from concrete

It is a pre-fabricated solution for receiving sewage and has the following advantages:

• Construction speed. In fact, with a set of factory-made concrete rings, such a structure is built in one day. There is only one drawback - you will need a crane or an excavator to work.
• Reliability and durability of concrete.
• Minimum installation complexity.

Such a structure is being erected quickly:

• First, a hole of the planned depth is dug.
• The site is then levelled.
• Using a crane, the first ring is installed.
• The soil from under the ring is evenly removed, while exposing signal supports that prevent the structure from skewing.
• After the second ring was installed on the first ring, they are fastened together with metal brackets.

The installation is continued in the same way to the planned depth.

When all the rings have been placed, a concrete floor is installed with the help of a crane with holes made in it for the hatch and the ventilation pipe. The finished structure should rise above the ground at a level of at least 30 cm.

To provide it with better tightness, all seams and the junction with the sewer pipe are carefully sealed with bituminous mastic.

The problem of the hermetic design will be its rapid filling, and the need for frequent calls for sewage services, which will pump out sewage. In the same case, if the withdrawal of water into the ground is allowed, then rings with holes made are purchased. The installation technology is no different from the above.

In order to give the finished structure a more complete look in terms of aesthetics, it is necessary to sprinkle with earth the part of the drain system protruding above the soil surface, while providing planting with plantings that will perform a decorative function. For example, planting a Moorish lawn that is undemanding to the conditions will make it possible to turn a purification plant into a flowering flower bed.

Brick drain hole

According to experts, the best option would be to use ceramic bricks, which will ensure the strength and durability of the structure. The process of building a drain pit made of bricks is conditionally divided into several stages:

• in a hole dug to the required depth, a drainage layer 20 cm thick is placed, consisting of sand and crushed stone of different fractions,
• after that, they begin to build walls, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern, taking into account a gap of 5 cm between them for better filtration of waste substances,
• on all sides, bricks, as the masonry grows, are lined with crushed stone of large fractions,
• in the masonry make the necessary clearance for inserting a sewer pipe.

There are often conflicting recommendations about the final step. For example, to reduce costs, it is proposed to perform masonry half a brick thick, but it is important to remember that such a design will hardly take the weight of a concrete closing cover.

The design itself provides for two options for laying bricks:

• down to ground level
• 80 cm below ground level.

In the case of laying bricks to ground level, space must be left, taking into account the thickness of the closing cover made of concrete. The recommended construction with the completion of masonry, not reaching the ground by 80 cm, raises some doubts about its appropriateness for a number of reasons:

• since the design will require the installation of a closing cover, then in the end the drain will still be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm - which is dangerous by a possible fall into the pit,
• it is advised to fill the cover with earth to the surface level, but in this case either access to the hatch will be blocked, or another pipe of a larger diameter than the size of the cover will have to be mounted on the installed cover - and in this case the system will be subjected to additional load.

Masonry is inferior to concrete in a number of factors:

• a concrete structure is erected much faster and ultimately requires less funds for construction,
• brick is more susceptible to moisture,
• to evenly distribute the load on the walls, the cesspool should have a cylindrical shape.

The expediency of erecting brickwork is manifested only when it is not possible to call heavy trucks.

Receiving containers made of plastic

If the question of how to make a drain pit without resorting to special costs is acute, then you need to pay attention to the option of installing a polymer tank of the required capacity. In this case, all work boils down to the fact that the required amount of earth is dug under the tank, and then the collection is placed in the prepared hole. After that, the remaining space is filled with soil. It is important to remember that sealed structures necessarily require the installation of a gas outlet.

Among the advantages are the following:

• ease of construction
• minimum costs in terms of labor intensity,
• protection of the air from the release of unpleasant odors,
• the durability of the polymer material, which is up to 50 years,
• during use, no waste substances enter the soil.

Of the minuses, you need to pay attention to the need for periodic pumping of sewage and the small capacity of the tank, so this option is optimal for use in low load conditions. For example, if the cottage is visited once a week, and a small amount of waste goes into the drain pit.

Temporary drain holes

They are made from used car tires. It is important to consider that the inner diameter must be at least a meter, otherwise the pit will quickly become clogged with sewage. In fact, the construction is easy to build: a hole of the required depth and diameter is pulled out, after which it is filled with tires, laying them one on one to the ground level.

Among the advantages of the design are the following:

• ease of work
• low price of waste tires,
• after laying, the empty space is filled with earth, and no additional finishing is required.

It is worth remembering that the design is suitable for a toilet placed outside and not connected to the house by a sewer system. Since it is assumed that the load on the pit will be negligible. Despite its name, with infrequent use, such a pit will last up to 25 years.

Drainage pit with timber formwork

Like the previous design, the use of wood is suitable as a temporary solution. In fact, this option is still sometimes used in rural areas and in some summer cottages, but due to the fact that wood, even with high-quality processing, will not withstand more than ten years, it makes little sense to use wooden formwork. Nevertheless, this is a drain pit, the price of which will be the most acceptable and will not exceed 3000-4000 rubles.

Of course, the speed of erection and isolation of the soil from sewage are the advantages of the design, but nevertheless, it is inferior to all varieties of the cesspool and for the most part serves as a relic of the past.

Drain hole without a bottom

It is a cesspool constructed of bricks, with the difference that the bottom of the drain is not processed. In some cases, the bottom is covered with a metal mesh, but in a chemically aggressive environment, it quickly rusts and loses its suitability. Impurities evenly fall into the ground, but due to the strong silting of the bottom of the pit, additional cleaning is periodically required.

In addition to the above, when arranging a cesspool, you need to pay attention to some tips to increase processing efficiency and ensure greater durability of the structure:

• Drainage of the bottom of the pit is best done using coarse gravel to prevent premature silting. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.
• To improve drainage, asbestos pipes are inserted at the bottom, which are installed with a ledge at a level of 50 cm from the bottom.
• It is better to finish the walls with clay to reduce the concentration of harmful substances entering the soil.
• In the event that there is one cesspool on the site, but its volume is not enough, it is more expedient to arrange another one nearby and connect the PVC pipe to the first one. In this case, the structure will become overflow and will need to be cleaned much less frequently.
• From the first moment of use, it is necessary to use special preparations containing bacteria. They speed up the natural recycling process and reduce odor.
• The overlap should extend above ground level so that in the event of heavy rain, the drain pit does not overflow with water and its contents do not fall into the area.
• In any embodiment, the design must include a chimney to remove accumulations of methane and other hazardous substances.
• Inorganic substances, including low-quality toilet paper, can significantly reduce the life of the structure and contribute to heavy silting of the surface.

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Pit device and manufacturing materials

Device

The device of the cesspool begins with the choice of a suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to select the optimal location:

1. the pit should be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
2. from the pit itself to the place of the fence, the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
3. the distance to groundwater should be taken into account, it should be over 30 meters.

After that, they begin to calculate the optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

• calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of the volume of wastewater;
• taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily pass liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
• it should be remembered that the soil layer should be at least 1 meter;
• the optimum depth is about 3 meters.

materials

Now the most widespread types of materials used in the construction of a cesspool are:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can make a cesspool of concrete rings without a bottom;
• tractor tires;
• special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymeric materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the scheme of the cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, in order to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the crumbling of the walls, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. around the perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

A prerequisite is the presence of a vent equipped with a pipe for venting gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch that will provide access to the pit for regular cleaning.

Manufacturing instructions

Consider the 3 most simple options for building a pit.

from brick

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit with a brick lining:

1. to begin with, with the help of a thread and stakes, mark the selected area - on average, the parameters of the pit are 1 by 1.5 meters;
2. to fill the pit at the end of the work, about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil will be needed, the rest of the earth mined during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
3. if it is planned to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
4. at the bottom of the excavated pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
5. with a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
6. after the concrete pad hardens, lay a sewer pipe (if any);
7. after that, proceed with the laying of the facing walls, placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using a sand-cement mortar;
8. to increase the life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
9. at the end of the cladding, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
10. make indentations in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
11. from corrugated board, build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
12. reinforce the overlap by using rods, reinforcement fastened together with wire;
13. evenly fill the formwork with a concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
14. carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

1. dig a pit, maintaining the most round cross-sectional shape;
2. mark the territory on which the pit will be located;
3. fill the bottom with a layer of concrete mortar;
4. build a metal frame using reinforcement bars, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
5. after the concrete has hardened, you can begin to install the rings;
6. the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with a concrete solution;
7. the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
8. after mounting all the rings, they should be closed with a concrete cover, the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using plastic containers:

1. dig a pit, given that in this case it will be much larger in size than in the previous two cases;
2. make the bottom as even as possible;
3. pour a 15 cm layer of sand on the bottom and compact it well;
4. gently lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
5. connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
6. fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
7. pour a small volume of water to see how the reservoir compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, then the tank is not installed correctly.
8. completely fill the pit with soil.

Required Tool

The main tool for the personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and a rope to pull out the earth. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove the soil from the pit. Have a tape measure or other measuring device handy. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that it will be necessary to make a mortar from cement, then if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, a separate container should be allocated for preparing the required volume of mortar.

Mounting highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations based on specific needs. Then follows the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with concrete rings or brick lining will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a reservoir will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings, it should be noted that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure during falls. The option with bricks and a tank can be mounted by hand. It should also be noted that in order to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be sealed with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which sewage will pass, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common Mistakes

Practice shows that often when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are made such as:

• incorrect performance of preliminary calculations in terms of volume and location;
• insufficient depth of the pit;
• weak strengthening of the walls of the pit, as a result of which shedding occurs
  walls;
• the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
• neglect of the rules for the installation of concrete rings.

Price

Given the latest data, we can say that the arrangement of a cesspool made of bricks costs on average about 2,000 rubles per 1 cubic meter. A pit made of concrete rings will cost from 30,000 rubles. Installing a medium-sized tank costs about 35,000 rubles.

greenologia.ru

Device and constructive types

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage. It is a depression in the ground in which sewage is accumulated and partially processed.

Any drain contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered effluent passes into the underlying soil.

Everything that has not been recycled and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overflow.

In summer cottages, they often arrange a separate cesspool for a toilet. It looks like a relatively small depression in the ground, over which a light wooden structure is installed.

When the pit is filled, the toilet is removed, the recess is covered with earth. Waste rots in the ground and turns into compost - a useful fertilizer.

In the future, a fruit tree is planted at this place, which will give an excellent harvest in such a well-fertilized place. And for the toilet they dig a new hole, which is later disposed of in a similar way.

But for the needs of a large house, especially for year-round living, such a solution, of course, is not enough.

Modern cesspools have a fairly large volume, and their walls are built from a variety of materials. It could be:

• brick;
• aerated concrete blocks;
• wood;
• concrete rings;
• old tires, etc.

For the device of the simplest cesspool, it is now possible to purchase a ready-made plastic container with a hatch and strong walls. With its help, the process of building a mini-sewer in a suburban area is greatly facilitated and accelerated at times.

When choosing a material for a cesspool, it should be borne in mind that prolonged contact with an aggressive environment will gradually destroy its walls. To extend the life of the structure, you need to choose materials that are resistant to such effects.

There are two types of cesspools: sealed and filtering. In the first, wastewater is accumulated and stored until it is pumped out. Secondly, there is no bottom in the traditional sense of the term, and there may be holes in the walls so that part of the waste enters the ground.

If it is supposed to filter wastewater through the walls of the structure, then a gravel-sand filter with a thickness of at least 15 cm is arranged around them.

The walls of the filtering structure are made either monolithic or perforated, depending on the filtration qualities of the enclosing soils and the tasks of wastewater treatment.

Structures with the possibility of infiltration into the surrounding soils suit mainly for effluents collected by drainage and storm sewers. Between the conditional bottom of such a structure and the groundwater mirror there must be a soil thickness of at least 1 m.

A cesspool with a sealed bottom and monolithic walls is arranged for the collection and subsequent removal of household and household wastewater. It is also needed with a high occurrence of groundwater, because in such situations it is necessary to exclude direct communication of effluents with the environment.

Cesspools of large volume, in which it is supposed to accumulate a large amount of wastewater in a short time, must also be made airtight. A significant amount of waste will be processed for too long, increasing the risk of soil contamination.

Design and preparation principles

Even such a simple structure as a cesspool requires competent preparation and planning. It is necessary to determine a suitable place for its arrangement, choose the type of structure, its dimensions, work technology, materials, etc.

The location of the cesspool is the most important moment. According to building codes, it should be at a distance from the fence, residential buildings, etc.

For example, from a well with drinking water, this sewer facility should be at least 25 meters away, and from a residential building - at least five meters.

If the terrain on the site is uneven, you should not arrange a cesspool in a lowland. During the spring flood, it can be flooded with a high degree of probability, and this will lead to contamination of groundwater in the area.

The volume of the structure depends on the number of residents in the house and the time of residence. For one person, they usually take from 0.5 to 2.0 cubic meters. m. It is better if the volume of the structure is a multiple of the capacity of the sewage truck, since the fee for using the equipment usually does not depend on the number of drains, the cost of each departure is paid.

Thinking over a place to place a cesspool, you should immediately attend to the problem of cleaning it. The easiest and fastest way to perform this unpleasant procedure is with the help of a sewage machine. Therefore, sufficient space should be provided for the passage of such equipment.

It also happens that a site for a cesspool that meets the standards does not allow the use of a sewage machine. In this case, the accumulated drains are removed using a special pump or an ordinary bucket.

The pit is made airtight or with holes for filtration. The choice is influenced by the level of groundwater in the area. If it is less than a meter, the pit must be completely sealed. Otherwise, runoff can enter the aquifer and adversely affect water quality. It will not be easy to restore its normal composition in such a situation.

To equip a sealed cesspool, the bottom is concreted, the walls of the structure are made without gaps. An alternative option is a plastic container installed inside the pit. It will also provide the necessary tightness, but it should be remembered that plastic is significantly inferior in strength to concrete or brick.

If the first aquifer from the surface lies 1 or more meters below the bottom of the pit being constructed, then it can be arranged according to the principle of a filtering or absorption well. The bottom of the pit is formed from a material with high filtration properties: sand, crushed stone or gravel with sand filler. The thickness of the filter bed is at least 1 m.

It makes no sense to arrange a filtering structure on rocky and semi-rocky rocks, loams and clays, because. recycled effluents simply will not be able to migrate further into the ground. It is also not done if there is a possibility of unloading into open water near bathing places or water intake points for technical purposes.

For a small family of three, there are folk standards for cesspools. They are arranged at the rate of 0.5 m 3 per person, with an average depth of 1.0 - 1.5 m, a width of 0.8 - 1.0 m.

If a small-sized closet for summer residents who do not live permanently in a suburban area rises above the cesspool, the standard dimensions and estimated volume can be somewhat reduced.

Features of the installation of cesspools

So, the place has been chosen, it's time to start building the pit. Usually, special equipment is used for this, since removing large volumes of soil by hand is too long and hard. Pit configuration can be square, rectangular, round- it all depends on the material chosen.

Under old tires, concrete rings, etc. you need a round pit. It is more convenient to pour concrete or erect wooden walls in a square or rectangular pit. But brickwork can be done both in a circle and in a straight line.

After the pit is ready, you need to start arranging the bottom filter from a compacted mixture of crushed stone and sand. Over time, crushed stone is poured into the pit if part of the filter material is squeezed out under the weight of the drains into the underlying layer.

If you need a sealed pit, the bottom is made in the form of a concrete screed as for the foundation. Then the walls are erected. You can continue to work with concrete, make formwork and pour walls. It is easier and faster to make sewers from concrete rings. They are installed in the pit, and then the seams are sealed and sealed.

A plastic container is placed on a compacted sand cushion. Backfilling the pit in this case should be done very carefully so as not to damage the plastic. It is recommended to fill the tank with water at the same time to balance the pressure inside and outside.

There are no particularly strict requirements for the quality of brickwork in a sewer structure, the result will be hidden underground. This work can be entrusted to a novice bricklayer. But still, it should be remembered that even in the sewer, too curved walls are not needed. This increases the likelihood of their destruction under the influence of external factors.

Ordinary brickwork will provide sufficient tightness to the structure. If it is planned to create a cesspool with natural filtration, a gap of approximately half a brick is left at the seams.

In agreement with local inspection structures, in rare cases, it is permissible to build a cesspool from wood. Wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special materials to increase its service life. As practice shows, wooden cesspools do not last long and may need to be repaired after a few years.

For water resistance, the gaps between the logs are caulked and tarred, and a waterproofing layer of clay 45 cm thick is applied to the bottom and walls. From above, the cesspool is covered with densely packed logs, and a hatch of about 80 × 70 cm is arranged for the possibility of pumping out sewage.

And another option for finishing the walls of the cesspool is old tires. They are stacked in a pit to protect the walls of the pit from destruction. Of course, we are not talking about any special tightness in this case.

This is a temporary option that does not provide a large volume for the accumulation of stocks. But making a hole out of tires is relatively easy, and it performs its functions quite satisfactorily.

Features of the operation of cesspools

If the cesspool is arranged correctly, there will be no big problems with its work. The main problem is the regular cleaning of the tank from accumulated effluents. You should not wait until the tank is full, you need to start removing drains earlier.

However, simply pumping out sewage does not automatically make a building clean. In cesspools, over time, phenomena such as silting of the bottom and contamination of the walls with fatty deposits are observed. All this leads to a reduction in the volume of the structure, it fills up faster, and vacuum trucks have to be called more often.

In addition, pollution enhances the already unappetizing aromas characteristic of sewers. One way to solve the problem is to use special bacteria for cesspools. These microorganisms are simply poured or poured into a container in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

The presence of bacteria accelerates the processing of wastewater and prevents the possibility of contamination of the surrounding soil. In addition, microorganisms are able to significantly reduce and even completely eliminate the unpleasant odors of sewage.

Read the instructions carefully before using bacteria. Such preparations are not always compatible with certain types of household chemicals. You need to choose a different composition or change the means for cleaning, washing and other needs to more suitable ones.

Sometimes even bacteria do not help, the walls and bottom of the container are covered with deposits. In this case, mechanical cleaning of the container will help. After pumping out the sewage, a worker descends into the pit and cleans the dirt from the walls. Then a layer of silt is removed from the bottom. The cleaned bottom should be covered with a fresh layer of crushed stone or gravel.

Cleaning cesspools is not only time-consuming, but also dangerous. They should be performed in special protective clothing and a respirator. Protective goggles and, of course, gloves will also come in handy. It is not recommended to perform such work alone.

Deposits can release gas hazardous to human health. A worker inside the pit may suddenly lose consciousness under the influence of such fumes. Even if there are two or three people working below, they should be insured by someone on the surface in case of such trouble.

Cesspool of concrete rings

The use of prefabricated reinforced concrete structures, in this case, concrete rings, significantly speeds up construction, so they are used quite often. Such elements can be used to equip both a sealed and absorbing cesspool.

In the first case, monolithic rings are taken, and in the second, special rings with holes are used.

Of course, whole elements without cracks should be used so that the structure does not fall apart during operation. To make a cesspool of concrete rings, follow these steps:

1. Choose a location for the building.
2. Make markup.
3. Dig a pit.
4. Level the bottom.
5. Fill the bottom of the pit with concrete screed.
6. Install concrete rings.
7. Lay the necessary sewer pipes.
8. Seal the seams.
9. Carry out waterproofing and sealing work.
10. Backfill the pit.
11. Install a concrete floor with a hole and a cover.
12. Install ventilation structures.

Of course, there is no need to concrete the bottom for an absorbent cesspool. Instead of a screed, a layer of gravel or rubble should be placed on the bottom to improve the drainage of the structure. And for a sealed structure, you can find a ready-made concrete ring, which already has a bottom. But these options are rare.

Concreting of the bottom is carried out using a screed with a thickness of about 10 cm. To give the layer additional strength, crushed stone is added to the composition. the solution should be as homogeneous as possible in order to achieve uniform drying.

Until the screed dries, it is impossible to continue work on the arrangement of the cesspool. We'll have to wait at least a week. After drying, flaws may appear on the screed - cracks, bumps, etc. They must be repaired with a special repair solution.

Concrete rings should be installed very carefully. This can be done with a crane or by hand. The joints are sealed with rubber gaskets, you can use old car cameras. At the joints, the rings are isolated with a solution.

For laying sewer pipes, they dig a trench with a slight slope - about 3 degrees. The recommended depth of such a trench is at least one meter so that the pipes do not freeze in winter. For the same purpose, the pipes are covered with a layer of heat-insulating materials.

A hole in the concrete ring for connecting a sewer pipe can be made using a perforator.

After the pipes are laid, the quality of the work is checked by lowering some water into the sewer. After making sure that there is no leak, you can start backfilling the trench. A reinforced concrete slab is usually used as the top floor.

It is best to choose a design that already has a round or square service hole. Such a hole is closed with a standard cap.

Good ventilation of the cesspit helps to improve waste processing and remove unpleasant odors. For ventilation in the upper ceiling, it is imperative to make a special hole and bring the pipe up.

A plastic pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm is suitable. From above it must be covered with a special deflector to prevent the penetration of precipitation into wastewater.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Here is a detailed overview of the device cesspools, made of various materials:

An interesting version of a cesspool lined with bricks is presented in this video:

Here you can see a clear example of the installation of a cesspool of concrete rings:

The cesspool is an ancient but useful structure. This is the easiest and relatively cheap way to provide a home with reliable autonomous sewage. It is only necessary to choose the right place, determine the volume and strictly follow the technology of work.

sovet-ingenera.com

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A fairly important hydraulic operation is considered to be drainage in a summer cottage. The easiest way to improve the water balance of the soil should be mandatory, because the ratio of moisture in different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

Uncomplicated system for draining water from the building

Soil drainage can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed-type channels that do not violate the attractiveness of the landscape.

surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to the central gutter or drain well. Among the advantages can be distinguished:

• high speed of construction;
• small costs;
• sufficient level of efficiency;
• ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If we are talking about how to make drainage on the site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with an open channel system.

Closed drains

Depth line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater in close proximity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground for a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

• point (water is collected in one place);
• linear (moisture collection is provided throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within the same area, the presented species can be combined. For example, for the drainage system of a house, you can use a point collection, and for groundwater - a linear one.

Drainage at the dacha: the easiest way to device for specific conditions

Before you make a drainage system on the site, you must choose its type, based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for arranging water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

With a close occurrence of groundwater, a deep system of a linear type may be the best option. It will remove moisture from the entire site to a sewer, ravine or ditch located one level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in the geotextile filter as the main elements.

One of the simplest methods of drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

• A trench breaks out to the distance of soil freezing. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. For leveling, a layer of sand is poured.
• Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
• Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again covered with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile roll up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is covered with soil.

Note! Knowing how to properly drain around the site and on its territory with a close occurrence of groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with an excess of moisture.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself open drainage device on a site with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. With a closed piping system, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go to specialized septic tanks or other suitable places.

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the place of reception. It is necessary to make the widest trench, which collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Since the open view of the trenches spoils the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only allows you to increase the aesthetic properties, but also to strengthen the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system is significantly increased.

Stones of various sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be laid on the bottom, and medium and small - on top. If there are good financial opportunities, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable look.

If money is tight, then regular brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and laid on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bunches of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Related article:

Average prices for turnkey site drainage

Many companies offer professional drainage services, but they don't come cheap. During the work, a double-walled pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

Care rules

Drainage structures will function properly for many years if the basic rules are followed during operation.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for stormwater. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.