What is a fire pit made of. Lighting agents can kill or maim you

Having escaped from the city smoky, people come to nature in a friendly crowd in the summer to enjoy the clean air. Picnic and barbecue lovers took coal, briquettes and firewood with them to cook a traditional delicacy on an open fire. A special ignition fluid helps start a fire in extreme conditions with strong winds, wet fuel and high humidity.

When people buy a product, the first thing they look at is the price, not really paying attention to other useful features. When choosing a means for ignition, one must proceed from fire-prevention principles. The safety of products based on liquid paraffins from Yaskhim is considered high, although their retail price exceeds kerosene or alcohol counterparts.

Types of ignition fluid

The retail network sells three types of ignition fluids, which are divided:

1. Paraffin based.
2. Alcohol mixture.
3. Solution with "natural ingredients".

Paraffin liquid for ignition of coal, which includes the popular product "Ignition-off" of the Yashim plant, is the best option. The odorless universal agent flares up smoothly and burns confidently for a long time, which is enough for the coal to acquire the right temperature to independently maintain the fire.

Before bringing a match, instructors recommend waiting three minutes for the poured liquid to soak into the firewood or briquettes.

Alcohol solutions for a fire are also acceptable, despite the explosiveness. The contents of vials containing a mixture of esters and carbohydrates can blaze when set on fire, which is very dangerous. Therefore, the use of a long fuse, paper twist or household matches is considered a reasonable phenomenon. If the vial contains a liquid with a dirty color and a pungent odor, then diesel fuel or other oil fractions are added inside, which can lead to irreparable consequences.

Third view- these are liquids with "natural components", although in fact there is a working out of motors, turpentine, tar. They have one thing in common - they burn disgustingly with an unpleasant odor.

Composition and characteristics

When choosing a liquid for a fireplace or stove, you need to carefully study the composition. The price of an ignition fluid based on a mixture of paraffins does not differ much from the cost of ether-alcohol counterparts. From the point of view of safety, the product of the Yashim plant, which is called Ignition-off, is out of competition. The mixture of liquid paraffins that make up the lighter fluid does not form harmful fumes. The advantages include uniform combustion without an explosion, leaving no soot and soot behind.

Mixtures made on the basis of alcohols, under the influence of direct sunlight, can explode at any time. A long fuse is required to ignite the flame so as not to burn the face and hands due to a possible flash. Flammable products requiring special precautions are very dangerous.

When buying, you need to pay attention to the packaging, which should be transparent. If the liquid inside has a yellowish tint, then it is not recommended to buy the product. It most likely contains oil waste, which can get into food with smoke from a fire.

A sure sign of high quality will be the complete absence of smell. The amber of kerosene, acetone, and other solvents cannot be hidden. Modern perfumes will not be able to kill the crude vapors of volatile petroleum products.

An effective way of product quality is the absence of fillers and additives in it. Determine toxic impurities easily. It is enough to shake the bottle to make sure that there is no foam from additives.

Instructions for use

Do not pour lighter fluid on open flames or smoldering coals.

Charcoal, briquettes and firewood, poured with the contents of the bottle, will slowly light up if you bring a match.

On the basis of paraffins, an ignition fluid was made according to the certified technology of the Yashim plant. The absence of soot and smell in the bubble guarantees a savory taste to the dishes.

1. Before lighting a fire, apply a small amount of liquid drops to brushwood, briquettes, firewood or coal.
2. When the solution is absorbed into the material, it can be set on fire. If the technology was not violated by the performers, then the flame will be even, uniform, without flashes.
3. It is strictly forbidden to spray the contents of the vial on an open fire or near smoldering coals. Gross violation of fire safety is fraught with irreparable consequences.
4. If the solution is on the skin, then its traces can be washed off with running water.
5. Keep the vial out of the reach of children.

Liquid on paraffins during combustion does not emit soot, which means that there are no carcinogens in smoke and air. Tourists and vacationers can safely use it for fishing and hiking to kindle fires on barbecues and barbecues when cooking meat.

The certified product "Ignition-off" is actively used by summer residents in everyday life to kindle a fireplace or a bath. The absence of such toxic components as gasoline, acetone, alcohol, turpentine in the liquid "Yashima" guarantees safety and environmental friendliness.

"From the master class presented by the author, you will learn how to make preparations for lighting a fire in a simple and uncomplicated way, which are necessary in an emergency situation when, for example, there are very few matches left and the wood for the fire is very damp.

Of course, you can find kindling for a fire in the forest, for example - this is birch bark, resin, small dry sticks. But if there is dampness all around and pouring rain, then the blanks will come in handy in this situation.

And so let's figure out what kind of blank it is and how to do it right? We look at the list of necessary materials and tools.

materials
1. wax (candle ends)
2. egg cassette
3. pieces of wool, cotton, villi from clothes

Instruments
1. tin can
2. water bucket
3. heating element
4. scissors.

The process of creating a blank for making a fire in an extreme situation.
And so, to prepare this type of kindling, the author first of all needs a cassette from under chicken eggs, it must be paper.

Then the cells are filled with pile, wool, cotton and slightly crushed.

Next, the author proceeds to the preparation of liquid wax: for this, he takes a tin can from under canned food, puts candle stubs and pieces of wax into it. After the jar is filled with contents, it should be placed in a water bath so that the wax melts and takes on a liquid state. Here, the master simply takes a bucket of water, puts it on a heating element and immerses a jar of wax in the water.

ATTENTION!!! Wax should be melted exclusively in a (water bath) and in no case on an open fire! Please observe safety precautions!

Then you should leave the mold alone, thereby allowing the wax to harden and dry.

After the contents have dried, the resulting cells must be divided into separate parts, for this you just need to cut the cassette with scissors.

That's all the blanks for making a fire are ready, for convenient and compact transportation they need to be placed in a bag and tied. Then, when you go camping and you urgently need to build a fire to cook food and boil a seagull, you should simply put this blank under the firewood and set it on fire, according to the author, one cell burns up to 20 minutes. This burning time is quite enough to kindle damp firewood.

Well, actually we make a fire, we warm ourselves)

The experiment was a success - the experience was obtained, structured and formalized. Description and photo of the experiment below:

1. Extraction of tinder, kindling and firewood

One flint and firewood for a fire is not enough, because. in reality, this little thing is not able to ignite even birch bark - only medical cotton wool and gasoline ignite from a spark. In order to get fire from a spark, tinder is needed.

I chose Ivan-tea fluff as a tinder, but I am sure that any other natural material that is as similar in structure to medical cotton as possible will do. For example, the fluff of the cobs of reeds / cattail, poplar fluff, fluff of dandelions, rapia and other plants that form fluff after flowering, or dried moss or tissue of tinder fungus, is suitable. In an emergency, you can always find an abandoned bird's nest - the only thing in the taiga that really lights up from a single spark. it is always protected from rain and consists only of bird down and dry grass. But it is still better to make your own "nest" for the sprouts, and not to ruin innocent birds.

He hopes that the spark will ignite the tinder, and he, in turn, will immediately transfer the flame to the firewood - it is ridiculous. As practice has shown, fluff from a spark also does not light up, but only begins to smolder, giving coals that can be turned into fire with the help of air injection and birch bark. Therefore, before starting the process, it is necessary to take an ax and prepare birch bark.

It is best to take birch bark from dead trees - plucking birches already fallen by nature is not only more ethical, but also much easier and more practical than fiddling with standing living trees.

As firewood, it is easiest to use dry branches of pine trees - the benefit of pine trees felled by time and wind in the taiga is abundant. It was possible to look for good deadwood, but the branches are much closer and more accessible.

Bottom line: tinder, birch bark, wood chips for kindling, firewood

2. Starting a fire

Preparing a place for a fire.

We cut sparks until enough of them accumulate so that the tinder begins to smolder.

We inflate the smoldering tinder, placing thin strips of birch bark. The process is not fast, so you need to approach it with patience without too much haste.

Sooner or later, fire still appears (although for the first minutes it seems that smoke without fire still exists)))

We put wood chips for kindling, and then we stack the firewood with a well or a hut (or you can use both methods at the same time - cover the well with a hut).

3. Conclusions

Making a fire with a flint and flint is an absolutely unnecessary crap in a campaign. Yes, this is interesting to do for show, but in a real trip, a lighter is better than a flint and flint for at least three reasons:

Firstly, a lighter saves time spent searching for tinder (carrying a supply of tinder with you is ridiculous because it’s easier and easier, and most importantly, it’s more practical in terms of the volume occupied to carry hunting matches or the same lighter).

Secondly, the lighter saves time spent on making a fire with the help of the most inefficient way of forcing air - pulmonary traction.

Thirdly, even if the lighter runs out of gasoline (or gas), it can still produce sparks that are no different in their properties and effect from the sparks of the flint.

Well, the main counterargument against the stupid fashion for a flint and flint - this trinket is lost just like a lighter, but at the same time it costs no less than a trouble-free Zippo.

Don't fall for fashion trends - use reliable and efficient fire sources.

A fire, even with a gas burner or a stove, is an indispensable attribute of travel. It just doesn't always work out. Although with the right kindling, it becomes not so difficult. Some representatives of the northern peoples are still able to boil a kettle on a fire made of twigs as thick as a pencil ...
For a city dweller who ventures into the woods once every six months, even just making a fire often becomes a problem, especially if it happens in wet weather and there is no gasoline at hand. But if you took with you the means for kindling, then you don’t have to worry - the fire will flare up. Even if you breed it for the first time. At least that's what the manufacturers say. And we will check it now.

THE REQUIRED TRINITY
Not all products tested today can be considered fire starters, but they are all important for making a fire. It is possible to single out kindlings proper, burning for a long time at a temperature sufficient to dry and ignite firewood, ignition means (matches), which are indispensable in the forest, and, finally, long-burning fuel that can replace a fire or help build it in very advanced cases.

The main thing that is required for a fire is matches. The master can even build a fire from one such stick in a wet forest. True, she herself must be dry. To do this, you need to fill ordinary matches with paraffin. This protection guarantees the dryness of the product even if it is completely immersed in water. But hunting matches are considered more reliable. They are not afraid of water and should not stop burning even when lowered into water. But it turned out that since Soviet times the quality has dropped sharply. No, all subjects ignited and burned in the air normally. But when immersed in water, about half of them stopped burning. And this happened with hunting matches from each package. Therefore, if it is pouring rain outside, then it is better to light matches under a canopy. Other than that, they are quite functional.

USELESS IRON
Iron matches are like sparklers with a match head at the end. They are afraid of bends, moisture, wind ... They are suitable for kindling fireplaces or stoves, but their usefulness is doubtful when traveling.
So take hunting matches with you. But with a margin: in wet weather, their consumption may increase.

THERE IS A REASON NOT TO DRINK
The best kindling - dry moss or pine needles - is not always available in the parking lot. Birches also do not grow everywhere. And when the firewood is damp, a lot of birch bark is required. So special equipment is needed. The most famous of them, "dry alcohol", ignites easily and does not produce soot. Its main drawback: if it is wet, then it cracks during combustion, scattering fragments. Yes, and during transportation can be painted.

Paraffin-based kindlings are either hardwood-like pulp impregnated with paraffin, or simply paraffin bars. Long-burning matches and ignition briquettes are similar to the first option. Hardboard products burn confidently, dampness and getting wet before use is not a hindrance to them. But on burning matches and briquettes, water must be excluded: they go out like pretty ones.

Paraffin bars flare up instantly, are not afraid of water during transportation, and do not even fade during combustion when water drops fall on them. But if the rain is torrential, the paraffin does not stand up.

"Fire of Lebedev", products from a mixture of sawdust and paraffin of a special form, can be used as a substitute for a fire. And the younger model of the family is also like kindling. It burns for two hours and eliminates the need to collect small branches.

Iron matches ("Energy-SV", 75 rubles, 14 pcs.)

Made on the principle of sparklers: a combustible mixture on a wire. The length of the combustible layer is 13 cm. The burning time is 1 min. They ignite through one, the combustible layer crumbles when bent, they are afraid of moisture and wind. The flame is very hot, but the burning time is not enough to ignite. Suitable for home use.

Hunting matches ("Plitspichprom", 20 rubles, 20 pcs.)
Classic hunting matches in a cardboard box. The length of the combustible layer is 3 cm. The burning time is 8.7 sec.

Matches for the hunter ("Plitspichprom", 50 rubles, 20 pcs.)
Long hunting matches in a cardboard box. The length of the combustible layer is 5.5 cm. The burning time is 21.3 sec. Not afraid of wind, moisture and rain. Easily ignite and confidently burn in the air, regardless of weather conditions. In short, everyone is good, but half goes out in the water.

Matches for special purposes ("Belka-Favorite", 20 rubles, 6 pcs.)
Elongated hunting matches in vacuum packaging. The length of the combustible layer is 6.5 cm. The burning time is 49.7 sec. The longest burning time and additional protection against dampness (useful when the package is completely immersed in water: the wooden base becomes damp and the matches refuse to light up). But half of the matches also do not burn under water. Optimal price/quality ratio.

Long-burning matches ("Russian match", 73 rubles, 14 pcs.)

Triangular matches made of pressed wood dust impregnated with paraffin. Packing - cardboard box. Burning time - 6 min. 34 sec.

Dry fuel "Voanda" ("Promeks ST", 56 rubles, 12 pcs.)

Dry fuel in classic size tablets with a match head. Diameter - 3 cm, height - 1.1 cm. Burning time - 13 min. A very convenient solution, only the grater could be made waterproof and bigger. The packaging itself is sealed enough to prevent dampness. One tablet is enough to make a fire from semi-dry firewood. Can be used for personal cooking.

Dry fuel "Gefest" ("Stroybis Venture", 120 rubles, 3 pcs., 600 g)

Fuel tablets in foil packaging. Tablet diameter - 7.5 cm, height - 4 cm. Burning time - 57 min. Size matters when there is not a single dry branch in the forest. With "Hephaestus" you can easily kindle a fire. It will take a lot of time, but the heat will be provided. It can be used as an alternative to a burner if your pot is no more than two liters. Protect from moisture during transportation!

Briquettes for ignition ("Alabr", 100 rubles, 64 pcs.)

Briquettes made of compressed wood dust impregnated with paraffin. Packing - cardboard box. Burning time - 6 min. 5 sec. There are two crisply diced plates in the package that peel off easily and burn for a surprisingly long time for its size. To ignite them, you will need a separate source of fire. Nevertheless, of all kindling using paraffin, this option seems to us the most profitable, compact and efficient.

Solid fire starter Pe-Po (Czech Republic, 66 rubles, 40 pcs.)

Riket made of paraffin mass with a notch in a cardboard box. Dimensions (general) - 95x150x27 mm. Burning time 1/20 - 11 min. 36 sec. Despite the 40 cubes declared on the package, we managed to find one briquette in the box with a very indistinct notch, along which, apparently, it was worth breaking off these cubes. In practice, it did not work out: the paraffin broke off regardless of the lines, forming pieces of irregular shape. Therefore, we decided to give the overall dimensions and burning time for the broken piece. The bar lights up easily, burns hot, is able to evaporate moisture from firewood and kindle a fire, but at the same time emits a large amount of soot. So it is better not to stand on the leeward side of the burning bar. The firelighter is afraid of water only, as one would expect, when pouring during combustion, any other influence of it has no result. It is better to transport and store in sealed packaging: the substance has a pungent smell of petroleum products.

"Fire of Lebedev" 0.2/2 ("White Candle Yard", 195 rubles)

A truncated cone made of sawdust soaked in paraffin, wrapped in paper. Dimensions - 75x80 mm. Burning time - 2 hours. This variant of Lebedev's Fire produces a flame 20–30 cm high and is designed for independent use as a replacement for a fire and for lighting. But the “pyramid” is also useful for kindling a fire, especially in those places where there are no small branches: a powerful and hot flame, combined with long burning, allows you to confidently ignite rather thick branches, even wet ones. Only it is necessary to make a fire not on the ground, but on a hill: the fire at the cone breaks out from above. A thing worthy of taking a place in the backpack of any traveler: Ogon Lebedev is not afraid of water, weighs only 200 g, does not take up much space, and its versatility can come in handy both in everyday and in extreme situations. The older brother of Ognya Lebedev, model 0.5/2, can only be used on its own as an alternative to a fire, heater, dryer or torch.

continuing the topic review from comrade Umcbrat:

I found an interesting publication, which is in my opinion a very interesting and informative article.

When you have charcoal and liquid kindling (a mixture of liquid paraffins), the question of how to quickly make a fire does not arise. Any matches will do, in extreme cases a lighter. But if firewood is used, besides, it is not very dry, and there is no bottle with flammable liquid, then one has to remember the pioneer childhood and youth on the march.

If you are not in a hurry and know how to properly build a fire, then, of course, ordinary matches or a lighter will be enough. But today, a variety of hunting, tourist, fireplace matches are also sold, which are designed to help light firewood quickly and without any hassle. So we decided to check whether they are “afraid” of moisture and wind, how long they burn and how effectively they set fire to logs.

A small, but, in our opinion, significant addition. There are also thermite travel matches - in terms of the effect on wood, something in between ordinary hunting matches and kindling. The thing is spectacular and efficient, with a very high combustion temperature, but thermite matches are extremely rare on sale.

To compare the incendiary capabilities, we involved in the test the so-called "Super kindling", since in terms of its dimensions it is quite comparable to long-burning matches.

We plan to publish a report on other modern kindling materials in one of the next issues.

A small but, in my opinion, significant addition. There are also thermite travel matches - in terms of the effect on wood, something in between ordinary hunting matches and kindling. The thing is spectacular and efficient, with a very high combustion temperature, but thermite matches are extremely rare on sale, so they did not participate in this test.

To compare the incendiary capabilities, I involved the so-called “Super kindling” in the test, since in terms of its dimensions it is quite comparable with long-burning matches.

A report on other modern kindling materials is planned to be published in one of the next issues.

LLC "Extraform Unit", Moscow
"Long-burning matches" 20 pcs.
Claimed burning time - 6 minutes.

In general, they burn for 6 minutes, although the last minute can not be counted, since the match just burns out lazily. But the declared time is formally observed. After being tested with water, these matches still burn.

Plitspichprom CJSC, Balabanovo
"Hunting matches" 20 pcs.
The declared burning time is 20 s.

Burn for 25 seconds. But after abundant spraying with water without passion and less than the stated time.

"Matches for tourists" 5 pcs.
Burn time not stated.

The triangular briquette honestly burned for 8.5 minutes, ignoring the wind. Moistened with water, he also regularly served.

CJSC Match Factory Belka-Favorit, Kirov Region, Slobodskoy-3
"Matches for special purposes" 6 pcs.
Burn time not stated.

The match burns for almost half a minute (27, 35 s). This is exactly a match, without kindling components. Water and wind do not interfere with her.

NPP "Intaterm", Moscow
"Super kindling" 1 pc.
Claimed burning time - 20 minutes.

It fully justifies its name - it is not afraid of water, it burns powerfully for as much as 27 minutes! Although this is not quite a match, it can be used to light a fire even with damp firewood.

Factory Swedish Match Plam Bulgaria, Bulgaria
"Miracle matches" 20 pcs.
Claimed burning time - 15 minutes.

They exceeded the stated limit by a minute. They burn confidently, with a high flame temperature. Having got wet, they categorically refuse to burn, they do not like water.

Matches "Extreme"
What scoring crap I found in the "Hunter's Signal" kit! Very similar to thermite matches! In the process of burning, hellish temperatures of more than 1000 degrees Celsius are emitted! The melting point of aluminum, for example, is about 660 degrees Celsius! Accordingly, if you throw a burning match into a can of cola, it should, in theory, burn it :) I suspect that they are ideal for lighting fires in adverse weather! On Pluka, for such KC, the boys would give more than one yellow pants!

On one forum, I found indicative pictures of the burning of these matches!

Each match burns for about 15-20 seconds! The tin can was not burned! But the welded seam remained ...

Sometimes there is a need to kindle a fire from wet firewood without skill. Usually, firestarters from the store come to the rescue, but these funds are unreasonably expensive, so we offer you several recipes for homemade products.

soap gel

The first and for me the most convenient is a gel made from laundry soap and 96% alcohol. For 1 part of grated soap, add 3-5 parts of alcohol (the exact ratio is different each time, probably depends on the type of soap, but this recipe is an example of household soap). Soap can be melted in a water bath, or grated on a coarse grater. The result should be a thick mixture, more like a shampoo, from which it will smell very strongly of alcohol.

The advantages of this composition:

1. We smear a few chips in the future fire and set fire to it - first the alcohol burns out, then the soap, by this time the tree lights up.
2. A good antiseptic, if diluted with water to the state of liquid soap, you get something reminiscent of the antiseptic "Soap Alcohol" (used when cleaning small wounds from dirt). You can use it without dilution - poured a drop on your hands, rubbed it, washed it off with water.
3. If a bottle of alcohol is slightly opened in the backpack, then the alcohol, gradually flowing out, will soak all things and evaporate. If a bottle with this mixture is slightly opened, then most likely nothing will leak out, although in case the cap is completely opened, a bag can be put on the neck of the bottle and covered with an elastic band.
4. There is no temptation to dilute alcohol with water and drink, alcohol is used only for its intended purpose.

cotton wool

Wax-soaked cotton pads for removing makeup work great as kindling for a fire.

All you have to do is melt a candle in a saucepan, dip cotton pads into the wax, hold them there for 2-3 seconds so that they are well saturated. And put on baking paper to cool. Paraffin candles are also suitable. Only the pads soaked in paraffin will not burn so brightly and for a long time.

It is better to dip and catch the pads with long tweezers or kitchen tongs. And, of course, you should follow the simplest safety rules and wear at least an apron so as not to burn yourself with hot wax. Before setting fire to the impregnated cotton pad, it needs to be torn a little.

It is a pleasure to take one on small trips: it burns well and weighs little.

There is another way to prepare such kindling: cotton balls and petroleum jelly. Vaseline must be well, but evenly coat the ball over the entire area. But inside the ball will remain dry, that is, it is not necessary to tear the ball. Thus, we get the effect of a candle wick. When you need to start a fire, you tear the ball from the inside, thereby exposing the dry core of the ball, which will serve as an excellent firewood for kindling.

Homemade brushwood must be tightly pushed into an airtight container, such as a film box, aspirin, or other medicine. By the way, it is worth noting that a well-soaked ball, even if it gets wet, will still not absorb moisture, due to the vaseline shell. The shelf life of such homemade brushwood is practically unlimited, and the manufacturing process itself is simple and not expensive.

Natural types of kindling

Below we present several natural types of kindling for a fire:

• Rough dry last year's grass. Universally available, exceptionally effective kindling. Weeds are broken (or crushed) into small pieces 15-20 cm long, loosely placed in the center of the fire, a hut is built from thin dry branches on top. The fire is ready with one match! True, there is one "but". The efficiency of this type of kindling is reduced to almost zero in wet weather and during the winter thaw. And in the cold, weeds, covered with a thin layer of frost, will not immediately catch fire. So the use of this type of kindling is limited to hot summer days.
• Small dry branches of spruce or fir. In terms of characteristics and efficiency, they are close to the previous type of kindling, availability is determined by the presence of spruce or fir within reach. Compared to weeds, wet "cobweb" lights up much better; its flammability is better in winter. A "spider web" is used similarly to weeds.
• Birch bark. Birch bark is a real find for those who set themselves the goal of making a fire. It burns beautifully in any form: raw, rotten, taken from a living tree. The availability of this type of kindling is determined by the presence of adult birch trees, which, thank God, are one of the most common trees in our conditions. You can get birch bark both with your bare hands and using improvised means, however, the best results are obtained by removing large layers with a knife. Two deep annular cuts are made on the tree trunk, the distance between which is determined by your desire. Annular cuts are connected perpendicular, directed along the trunk. It remains to pick up the formed edge and tear off the birch bark with a layer. Next, the birch bark is laid in a compact pile in the center of the fire, a hut is built from thin dry branches on top. The fire is ready.
• Dead spruce bark. Extremely effective kindling in any season and in all weather conditions, it ignites perfectly when wet. Large pieces of bark are excellent for campfires in damp conditions or in winter. Accessibility is determined by the presence of spruces and fir trees - trees in the middle lane are very common. The bark easily peels off in pieces of various sizes, you just need to pick it up with any tool at hand. This is best done with a small hatchet. It should also be borne in mind that the most tarred bark is located at the butt of the tree. The collected kindling is used, similarly to the previous ones, as the basis for the "hut". At the same time, the pieces of bark are located in a “pyramid”, and the branches of the hut must be thick enough, otherwise they will burn out instantly.
• Coniferous resin streaks. Everyone knows the specific feature of coniferous trees to tighten damage with resin. Initially liquid and viscous, over time, the resin hardens into a solid opaque mass - it is this “old” resin that is used as kindling. This kind of kindling ignites when wet and is considered the best for use in winter, even in severe frosts. Its accessibility is determined by the presence of any coniferous tree - again, the middle zone of Russia does not lack them. The resin cures in two forms: either in the form of nodules ranging in size from a walnut to a fist, or in the form of deeply impregnating bark and wood sagging around large cracks. We will need both. True, to extract the resin, you will need a hatchet or a strong knife - both nodules and streaks are removed with a piece of the underlying bark and wood. Further use of kindling is similar to the previous ones - as the basis for the "hut". The branches of the hut should be thick enough to avoid quick burnout.
• Dry core of spruce, fir, pine. Perhaps the most time-consuming type of kindling in obtaining and manufacturing, the efficiency of which is much lower than resin, spruce bark and birch bark. However, this method can come in handy during heavy rainfall, especially a downpour, when there is no time to look for another type of kindling, but you want to quickly dry off by a hot fire. So, the availability of this method is determined by the presence of a nearby dead (just standing, not lying on the ground, dead) coniferous tree of sufficient thickness (from the thigh of an adult man, no less), with a whole top. Too thin a tree can be soaked with water to the very core, and in trees without a top, the core, as a rule, is already rotten and rotten. Not suitable for this purpose are trees standing in places with excessive moisture (lowlands, swamps), as well as larch. These options will either be raw through or rotten. Having found a suitable tree, we cut it down, easier and faster - with a saw. With the help of a saw, we cut into chocks and see that the core of these chocks is completely dry. The selected chock (or two) is stabbed into 4 parts and with a sharp knife we ​​plan a sufficient amount of chips and a torch from the core. Next, we build a familiar “hut” from the material obtained, the basis for which will be a neat pile of chips, and the walls will be torches. At first, the fire requires attention, protection from rain and regular fueling (as it burns up, the dimensions of the firewood also increase), but, having matured, it burns hot and is not afraid of precipitation.