What can a drainage system be made of. Drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater

An increase in the level of groundwater is fraught with negative consequences for land owners. This kind of flooding occurs due to melt water or due to the high intensity of precipitation. Soils, consisting mainly of clay or loam, are a real disaster for the owners of summer cottages, since this rock is a substance that does not pass water well through itself. Therefore, soils of this type have to be drained by using drainage, rather than waiting for the natural removal of excess moisture.

In this article, we will look at examples of how to make drainage for a summer cottage with your own hands.

Before you start draining the soil, you need to understand what is required for the job and how to implement it. In most cases, land owners prefer to involve professionals to carry out drainage work, although such activities are not cheap.

At the same time, the construction of a drainage system does not seem to be something super complicated. Almost anyone can master this skill by acquiring the necessary knowledge and purchasing the required material.

The results of the refusal to carry out drainage work

Waterlogged soil can cause a variety of problems, including the following:

• destruction of the foundation masonry, the appearance of cracks in the walls and the curvature of window openings, which manifests itself with regular flooding of buildings;
• failures on paths lined with stone or tiles, deformation of ordinary paths and extrusion of pools due to the so-called heaving, which is due to the physical properties of the soil oversaturated with moisture;
• the formation of mold and dampness as a result of flooding of spaces under the floor and basements;
• the death of trees and flowers, as plants require a watering rate, and excessive moisture harms them.

Under what conditions is drainage in a summer cottage especially important

1. Clay soil structure.
2. High level of underground waters.
3. Most of the territory is covered with materials of artificial origin, for example, in the form of concrete paths.
4. The buildings erected on the territory are installed on deep foundations.
5. The location of the site is determined by the lowland, when there is a slope nearby, from which water can drain, or, conversely, the flat area of ​​the territory does not contribute to the runoff of precipitation.

If your site corresponds to the above conditions, or some of them are relevant, you should think about creating a soil drainage system.

The main mistake of organizing drainage

The main drawback of arranging drainage in a summer cottage is poor design or its absence at all. At the same time, it is necessary to clearly understand how and to what extent the same drainage pipes will be installed. In this case, an analysis of the site is required, including the study of the occurrence and behavior of groundwater.

Water usually has the most detrimental effect on the foundation of structures, so it is worth paying attention to the design of drainage even at the stage of building a house. For example, it may be necessary to build another basement as a barrier to groundwater.

Failure to design, as well as improper development of the drainage system, is fraught with problems, the solution of which will take a lot of time, effort and money.

Types of drainage

There are two types of soil drainage systems:

Direct drainage on the site must be carried out either in a place empty of buildings and communications, or when all engineering structures for the house have already been laid. By contacting a specialized company, you can order the creation of a project for a drainage system and its installation.

A carefully designed drainage plan is an important part of the work due to the fact that in this case an individual approach is required, taking into account the full range of site features, including the location of plantings, communications, buildings and drainage systems of neighboring territories.

Surface drainage (from 1350 rubles per meter)

1. It involves the removal of excess water.
2. The depth of occurrence is from 50 to 70 cm.
3. Its use is possible when it is warm outside.

To determine the cost of drainage, characterized as surface, it is required to refer to the following calculation formula, provided that the soils of the site contain a lot of clay:

S:8=L,

where S is the area of ​​the territory, measured in m²; 8 - the area of ​​water collection with the help of 1 running meter of drainage; L is the length of the drainage system in lin. m.

If the conditions include a plot area of ​​1500 m², then we calculate that the length of the drainage system should be 187.5 m, since 1500: 8 = 187.5. At the same time, in reality, a larger drainage area will be needed, which is determined by the need to lay it around buildings and plantings, and these are extra meters.

As for the calculation of the installation of surface drainage on sandy soils, here it is necessary to slightly correct the formula, in particular, instead of 8, the number 12 will have to be used.

Turnkey deep drainage (from 3300 rubles per meter)

1. It is in demand for lowering the level of groundwater and draining the territory.
2. The depth of occurrence is from 1.5 m.
3. Designed for year-round use.

The scheme of this type of drainage:

Mounting

So, let's figure out how to make a drainage system for the soil of the site, point by point:

1. When arranging surface drainage, trenches with a depth of 50 to 70 cm are provided, and deep ones - from 1.5 m.
2. At the bottom of the ditch, sand is poured in one layer, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
3. The next stage is optional, but desirable if there are financial possibilities. We are talking about laying geotextiles on the bottom of the recesses.
4. Next is a layer of crushed stone 15 cm thick.
5. Drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are distributed in trenches.
6. A common soil drainage system is being formed by connecting cylindrical structures.
7. A layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick is laid.
8. The geotextile is repositioned.
9. The trenches are then backfilled with sand and soil.
10. The territory is put in order with the help of plant soil.

For the convenience of rainfall drainage, the drainage system should be mounted at a slope towards the place of the site, which is its lowest point. Drainage ditches on the site, ponds and any ditches can be used as water receivers. Otherwise, you will have to equip a special well. Its main task is to clean the drainage system from sand (soil) and collect the water pumped out by the drainage pump. To ensure the possibility of repairing the structure and monitoring its condition, manholes are installed above the places where the pipes and their connections turn.

Surface Drainage Project

For an example of the operation of surface drainage, consider an extremely simple plan for such a system in relation to a specific area. As initial information, we set the condition that it rained, while the water mainly collected at three points (1, 2, 3).

The geography of the site is such that its surface has a slight slope towards the opposite left corner when viewed from the side of the road. In this regard, the main trench (4) is located at the far end of the site. Excess water is discharged into this recess through auxiliary channels (5 and 6). The removal of precipitation from the roof of the house is possible with the help of appropriate trenches (6 and 8). In the case of crossing the path that runs along the house and outbuildings, it is planned to install a bridge (7).

Deep Drainage Project

Below is a plan of the soil drainage system, characterized as deep. The proposed scheme allows you to see that at first the water is collected with the help of drains (1), then it enters the main pipe (2) with further overflow into a special well and, finally, into the water intake. This drainage system is supplemented by wells used to control the operation of the structure in question (3).

When ensuring the functioning of any drainage, the main problem becomes the final removal of precipitation from the site. For this, natural formations in the form of ravines, rivers, streams and ditches near roads are usually used. In their absence, so-called storm drains are created.

Pipes for deep drainage

There are perforated products specifically designed to create deep drainage systems for a summer cottage, which are equipped with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Previously, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes were used for this purpose, which had such a disadvantage as rapid clogging, which required regular washing.

To date, the situation has changed, as the market has been filled with polymer pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, which are suitable for irrigation and drainage works. There are brands of similar products, supplemented by a filter shell, which eliminates the possibility of clogging the holes with soil and sand particles.

What is geotextile

A material known as geotextile is used to provide gentle drainage. The main properties are that it can actively absorb moisture and retain small grains of debris. Usually the use of this material is more justified in those areas where there is a significant amount of moisture. In this regard, it is somewhat thoughtless to use geotextiles when creating drainage systems in crushed stone and clay soils.

drainage well

To collect precipitation in the absence of natural formations in the form of the same ponds, a drainage well is created, which is a container that is buried in the soil below the level of the pipes. With the help of this facility, water is first accumulated, then distributed. Special cylindrical structures are connected to it, and a pipe or pump is mounted on top to drain excess water.

The drainage well allows you to control the system and carry out preventive maintenance. As a hydraulic container for such an element, you can use a plastic container by buying it at a specialized store or the corresponding department of the shopping center. In addition, a drainage well can be built independently using reinforced concrete rings.

findings

Installing a soil drainage system is a rather time-consuming process. However, this should not discourage you from mounting such a structure yourself, since every home master can perform such work without the involvement of specialists.

When planning to install a drainage system at their summer cottage, many owners cannot decide what is best to do: open surface drainage or closed. Let's see how the two systems differ. And also we will figure out how to make a simple country drainage with your own hands.

Building a simple site drainage system with your own hands is a simple task that even a novice master can do. Open surface drainage is the cheapest and most affordable option. It involves digging shallow ditches on the site. However, the surface system is only effective if it is possible to drain the collected water into a natural reservoir, ravine or hollow.

Surface drainage is equipped with open ditches, along the walls of which the flowing water is discharged outside the site.

The surface drainage system is divided into two subspecies:

• point drainage - designed to remove moisture in those areas where there is an excess of it;
• linear drainage - designed to remove precipitation from the entire territory of the site.

Laying an underground drainage system is more difficult and expensive. But with its help, you can not only divert storm water from the site, but also reduce the level of groundwater.

The main advantage of closed drainage is the ability to operate the system all year round, for example, to remove snow from a heated roof or water during thaws.

The simplest option for arranging closed drainage involves placing it not on a water-resistant layer, but a little higher in the ground. Thanks to this placement, water enters the system from all sides. To achieve the desired result, a closed backfilling of sand is performed around the drainage pipes. The layer thickness must be at least 7.5 cm.

When determining the type of drainage, it is worth considering:

1. Precipitation abundance: intensity and frequency of precipitation.
2. Features of the site: the presence of outbuildings, ponds, paths.
3. Terrain relief and configuration of water underground layers.

The arrangement of deep drainage, which involves the installation of manholes and the installation of a pipeline below the freezing level of the soil, is the most expensive at a price. If the summer cottage is planned to be used seasonally, it is not advisable to build such a system.

Options for arranging a surface system

Storm water inlets located throughout the territory collect water from downpipes, thereby preventing garden beds from flooding and the formation of puddles on garden paths.

Rain inlets are placed in places of the greatest accumulation of liquid

The storm water inlet is a small well, which is divided into two parts by a lattice partition. Getting into the first section, precipitation is cleared of heavy suspensions, after which it enters the second compartment. This solution minimizes the decay of stagnant dirty water and the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

To simplify the cleaning of the first compartment of the structure from debris, manufacturers equipped it with a special removable basket

Tip: in order to “disguise” the storm water well and minimize the risk of accidental falling into it, it is advisable to cover the structure with a metal grate.

Linear drainage

To lay a linear drainage system along the perimeter of the territory, ditches are dug, the walls of which are made at an angle of 30 ° so that water flows freely into the gutters. To simplify the task, the location of the ditches is planned so that the water does not flow in separate streams, but is collected in one or two streams. The place of water discharge is placed at the lowest point of the site or outside it. By installing a storage tank in this place, it is possible to collect rainwater for irrigation in order to provide plants with life-giving moisture during the dry season.

The width and depth of ditches in the arrangement of surface linear drainage averages 30x30 cm

To ensure that water flows by gravity into reservoirs or drainage wells, ditches are laid at an inclination of 3-4 cm per linear meter.

The inner walls of the ditches can be reinforced with broken bricks, pieces of slate or rubble. In places where the storm drain intersects with the paths, it is advisable to lay out the inner walls of the ditches with pipe cuts. If possible, it is better to purchase special plastic trays, which are covered with decorative grilles from above.

After laying the channels, you need to check the efficiency of the system. To do this, at the top of the system, you need to pour a couple of buckets of water and observe how quickly it flows down and if there are any obstacles in the way. After making sure that the system is working, it remains only to cover the trenches with branches or rubble.

To prolong the life of the system, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of filtering the water before it enters the drain.

In the place where water flows into the drainage system, a container with sand is installed, through which it will seep. The contents of the container will have to be periodically cleaned and washed.

Removable gratings can be installed to catch large debris in ditches. They must be periodically removed and cleaned of silt settled on the walls and accumulated soil.

Building a closed system

Groundwater located close to the surface can be diverted by constructing a simple deep drainage. To do this, in places where water accumulates, depending on the proximity of groundwater, ditches are dug 0.5-1 meter deep.

The bottom of the trenches is lined with bundles of brushwood, the thickness of which in circumference is about 30 cm, or they are decorated with large pieces of broken brick or stone.

Smaller pieces are placed along the walls of the ditch. It is possible to protect the rocky layer from silting, thereby extending the life of the structure, by lining the bottom of the trench with inverted turf or moss.

Tip: instead of broken bricks, the walls of the trenches can be reinforced with large pieces of glass or pieces of plastic.

The formed trenches can only be sprinkled with a layer of soil and, if desired, decorated with plant compositions.

With drainage pipes

To create a more durable drainage system, a pipeline is laid from perforated drainage pipes.

When arranging a closed-type system, drainage pipes are placed at a depth of 30 cm at the places where trunk lines are laid, and at a depth of up to half a meter at the points where moisture is removed from the system into a ditch or ditch.

If the site is located in a flat area, the water flowing through the pipes is diverted to specially equipped shallow wells or decorative reservoirs created for this purpose.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. Drawing up a project. At this stage, the places of accumulation of water are determined in order to correctly lay the main outlet line. Branches will approach the main pipeline, collecting moisture in the far corners of the site. Immediately determine the location of the drainage well and the point of discharge of excess - a nearby beam or reservoir.
2. Digging trenches. To ensure the smooth operation of the system, it is important to determine the direction of the natural slope of the site. You can find out by observing where the water flows during rainfall. When laying trenches, a slope of 2-3 cm is maintained for each linear meter towards the discharge point. First, the central channel is dug, and then the side "tributaries" are laid in increments of 4 meters.
3. Ditch construction. Having laid the entire trench network, they check whether moisture stagnates in it. If necessary, correct deficiencies. The bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of crushed stone filling, not forgetting to control the slope with a level. Then perforated pipes from corrugation D63 mm are laid. They are sold already wrapped in a layer of geotextile - a non-woven fabric that acts as a filter. Having laid the drainage pipes with the holes down, they are wrapped with overlapping geotextiles. The pipeline is sprinkled with sand or fine gravel, forming a layer 20 cm thick.
4. Installation of manholes. In places where the direction of the pipeline changes and where pipes cross, manholes should be installed. Their role can be performed by crosses, which are equipped with special plugs.

All the remaining space between the walls of pipes, crosses and trenches is covered first with crushed stone, and then with excavated soil, and compacted tightly.

Video guide for arranging drainage in the country using drainage pipes:

As practice shows, the best option is a combination of open and closed drainage. To make such a drainage in the country with your own hands, without spending a significant amount on its arrangement, is quite realistic. The main thing is to choose the right direction of the trenches and correctly install the system, which will allow you to quickly drain water, preventing waterlogging of the site.

A low-lying area can create many problems for its owners. In waterlogged soil, the foundation of the house collapses faster, the roots of plants rot from lack of air. Fertile soil in a short time turns into clay unsuitable for agriculture, because the lighter one is washed into water bodies. Such problems are solved by the drainage device of the site.

The installation of such an reclamation system is not difficult, but all the work is quite laborious, so you first need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the high level of groundwater passage, and not in other errors of agricultural technology.

How to determine the level of groundwater

A drainage system device will be needed in the following cases:

1. The site is on a slope. Melt water or storm water will erode the soil, taking with it a layer of humus. The problem is solved by digging transverse drainage ditches.
2. The site is located in a lowland. In this case, moisture accumulates directly on it. With prolonged rains or amicable melting of snow, the soil will become swampy and sour, and buildings will collapse from mold. In this case, it is necessary to install drainage channels around the entire perimeter of the site and around the foundation.
3. There is no obvious elevation difference on the site, but during floods and rainy weather, water still stands on it. She has nowhere to drain, so the moisture is slowly absorbed and sometimes comes to the surface in the form of puddles that do not dry out for a long time.

The latter variant is typical for flat lowlands with an extensive network of large and small rivers. It is well known to the owners of land plots in floodplains.

If there are no obvious signs listed above, but plantings and buildings still suffer from high humidity, you should pay attention to the condition of the lawn and trees. If the lawn periodically dampens and mature trees die for no apparent reason, the problem most likely lies in high standing waters.

Dig a hole 0.5–0.7 m deep and after a while check to see if water is being drawn into it. If you saw water, then its level is less than 1 meter, and the drainage of the summer cottage will definitely be needed.

Types of drainage

Drainage is a system of shallow ditches for the removal of groundwater. A properly installed drainage system can significantly reduce their level. After its device, the problems of rotting of the roots of trees, the appearance of mold in the underground and water in the cellar disappear.

There are two types of drainage systems - surface and deep.

The first option is the easiest way to remove precipitation. It is a complex of communicating trenches dug along the perimeter of the land plot under a slope. With their help, it is possible to relatively quickly, at minimal cost and effectively divert melt and rainwater to a special water collector, which is arranged in the lowest point of the site. Effluent from the sump is diverted to stormwater, or used for irrigation. Small volumes of liquid evaporate quickly on their own.

Installation of a deep system is more difficult, but superior to a surface one in the following cases:

• groundwater rises above half a meter from the surface;
• the site is on a slope;
• the soil is predominantly clayey.

Deep drainage differs from surface drainage in the presence of drains - pipes with frequent holes through which water is collected, as well as sand traps and other technological elements.

The deep drainage of the site is completely hidden underground and does not spoil the landscape.

Installation of a deep-type drainage system

It is not difficult to make a water drainage system from the site on your own, but you need to plan its installation before the stage of building the foundation and laying the garden. First, preparatory work is carried out. Prepare a project and note in it:

• elevation changes on the site;
• location of the lowest point;
• drainage grooves;
• places for wells;
• pipe laying depth.

For effective drainage, the minimum slope must be at least one centimeter per linear meter of pipe.

Upon completion of the preparatory work, you should prepare all the necessary tools, materials and calculate their quantity. Standard set includes:

• perforated pipes of suitable size;
• drainage wells;
• accessories for connecting drains - various couplings and fittings;
• geofabric;
• sand and gravel.

On sale there are pipes for laying drainage on the site with your own hands. Asbestos-cement, PVC, ceramic are suitable. Popular are those made from modern porous materials - plastoconcrete, expanded clay glass. Water seeps through the pores, and small solid particles do not pass, that is, they do not clog the system.

Also prepare tools in advance: bayonet and shovel shovels, wheelbarrows for soil, for cutting pipes, building level.

Next, mark the location of all elements on the ground. Then, in marked places, trenches are dug at least 0.7 m deep and about half a meter wide. When all the channels are dug, you should make sure that they have the required slope throughout. The places where the wells will be located are deepened more.

When all the trenches are ready, the bottom of the grooves and wells is rammed, covered with a layer of sand and compacted again. Then geotextiles are laid in them in such a way as to wrap it around the pipe with a margin.

Crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile and pipes are laid so that the holes are at the bottom. The entire system is connected, the slope is checked again and finally covered with rubble. It should cover the pipes completely. Then the free edges of the fabric are wrapped inside. The result should be a kind of roll with a pipe in the center.

Layers of fabric, sand and gravel prevent siltation of the system, significantly extending its service life.

Drainage (revision) wells are installed at the junctions of the pipes. They are designed for condition monitoring and cleaning. Mounted just below the level of the pipes. At the top for ease of maintenance have a removable cover.

After assembling pipes and wells into a single complex, a collector well is installed in the lowest part of the site. It is the main storage tank. Most often, collectors are made of reinforced concrete rings, but if desired, ready-made plastic ones are purchased and installed. From the collector, it is necessary to provide for a drain into a storm sewer or reservoir.

How to hide drainage underground and decorate the site at the same time

On this, the installation work for the device in the country house with your own hands can be considered completed. Now the entire system should be covered up in order to hide it completely underground. Backfilled trenches are lined with turf. In the future, flowers or any garden crops with a shallow root system are planted at this place. The grooves covered with large marble chips look interesting. Such elements of landscape design will decorate the site and will not let you forget the location of the pipes in case of repair work.

The drainage system of waters is usually combined with drains. To do this, install a gutter connecting the drain to the nearest well, or put a storm water inlet.

A closed-type drainage device in a summer cottage is not the easiest, but the most effective way to lower the groundwater level. Some actions may seem too laborious or painstaking, but the result in the form of a dry foundation and a healthy garden will please for many years.

Do-it-yourself site drainage - video

Reading time ≈ 14 minutes

As you know, the drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater will improve the land allotment. It is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but it is necessary, since the soil is not always suitable for growing, building and other agricultural work, for example, due to excessive moisture. This device will help to remove excess moisture without much cost.

Too much moisture in the soil

High groundwater level - what is it and why does it interfere?

Owners of land with an excess of moisture get enough unpleasant moments. Determining the excess moisture in the soil is quite simple. The presence of puddles that stagnate and do not disappear for a long time (do not soak into the ground). Stagnation can last from several days to a couple of weeks, "pleasing" with its presence. But this is not the saddest manifestation. This also includes:

• garden plants and trees get wet;
• partial or complete destruction of building foundations;
• the inability to grow their own garden crops.

All this is not so harmless. Two factors can lead to this state of the soil. The first factor is the location of your site. Such high humidity is often observed in areas that are in the lowlands. In this case, melt, rain and other water will flow down and accumulate below. The second factor depends on the level of groundwater occurrence. If they are close to the surface, then their excess will be acutely felt.

In any case, it is quite possible to solve this problem, although forces and materials will be required. But in the end you will get soil suitable for work and life. To remove excess water, special drainage systems are installed. They can be from the most elementary, to multi-level branched. It all depends on the degree of flooding in your area and, of course, your capabilities. In addition, you can choose how to create drainage. There are two ways.

1. Surface drainage. They are installed in order to divert water from the territory of the site, which has accumulated as a result of the seasonal period of floods or after bulky plots.
2. Deep drainage. They are used in order to directly reduce the level of soil moisture due to the diversion of water lying in the soil.

But for the exact choice of the method of drainage, you need to fully understand the true state of the soil and other nuances. And also for what purposes drainage actions will be carried out.

If we talk about the complexity of the independent construction of this system, then both methods are quite realistic to do at home, without resorting to the help of craftsmen and builders.

Surface drainage: project creation and system construction

Surface drainage can be performed in two different patterns: linear or point. The dot scheme is suitable for removing moisture from free-standing places of small dimensions. Where water accumulates the most, and install water intakes that are designed for this. Most often, such elements can be found under ordinary drains, at the bottom of the terrace, at the entrance areas where there are landscape depressions, and so on.

Point drainage system

It is worth noting that surface drainage is considered the easiest way to get rid of excess moisture in the soil. To make it, you don’t even have to draw up special diagrams and draw drawings.

If we talk about linear drainage, then it requires more effort to create and install. It requires the creation of a schema. This system is used to:

• remove moisture from buildings;
• protect the paths from unnecessary water;
• drain the entrances;
• prevent the washout of the most fertile ball of soil and much more.

The very design of such a system consists of a specially designed complex of trenches of small depth, which are laid at the right angle throughout the site and where water accumulates most. To do the drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater with your own hands, you need to do the following steps.

• Lay ditches. If there is clay soil on the site, then this is an ideal option for draining water. ditches are laid throughout the site. Before you do this, you need to create a plan that is easy to draw on paper. It will mark the entire system of ditches and the very place where the drainage well will be placed. It is in it that all the water from the ground will be collected.

Ditches for linear drainage

• Each ditch should be about half a meter wide and about 70 cm deep. The frequency of these trenches depends on how large the amount of water is. The greater the swampiness and clay content of the site, the greater the number of trenches that need to be done.
• For the full and effective operation of open drainage, attention must be paid to the slope of the ditches. They should be tilted in the direction where the water intake will stand. If your site has uneven terrain, then just dig them down the slope. In the case of a flat area, you need to build a slope yourself. If this is not done, then the water will not be discharged, but will simply accumulate in the ditches and will stagnate.

The slope calculation can also be done based on the general instructions. So, the minimum slope for sandy soils is 0.003. For clay soil, the indicator is different - 0.002. The water receiver must be located below the very level of the drainage system. As proven by practice, the best option for creating a slope are indicators in the range from 0.005 to 0.01.

In addition to the slope of the ditch itself, it is necessary to observe the angle of inclination of their walls. It is best to do this at an angle of 30 degrees. In this case, water will easily enter the trench.

• The depth of the trenches is about 50 cm, and the width depends on how close the drainage well is. The thinnest trenches will be at the edge of the garden drainage system. And in the place where everything converges into one, there will be the widest part.
• In order not to waste extra time and effort, you need to immediately check the system's performance. In the event that the drainage of water occurs incorrectly or does not exist at all, this ditch must be redone. Therefore, if you ennoble the system, and then check and something went wrong, you will have to redo everything completely.
• It's easy enough to check. It is necessary to send a strong stream of water through the ditches using a conventional hose. Ideally, water should come from more than one source. After letting the water in, see if all the water is directed to the well or if there are “malfunctions” somewhere. You also need to pay attention to the rate of water withdrawal. If the water leaves rather slowly, this indicates that the slope of the drainage system is not large enough and needs to be increased.
• After you have checked the system and made sure that it is fully functioning, you can engage in its arrangement and ennoblement. After all, it is not very interesting to observe constantly dug ordinary ditches. Therefore, most owners of such a system try to decorate it in order to give it a more aesthetic appearance. Moreover, in addition to beauty, such an action is also purely practical. The walls of the trenches tend to crumble and crawl. And with the help of pebbles and rubble (different fractions are used), this can be prevented.
• The bottom is filled with crushed stone of a large fraction. Crushed stone with a smaller fraction is poured over them. The top layer is filled with marble chips. An alternative is to use decorative gravel painted in any color. If you take blue pebbles, you will create the effect of real streams on your site. And along the edges-shores, you can place plants to heighten the effect. Thus, you will not only have an effective drainage system, but also a real decoration of the yard. Backfilling trenches allows you to use this system as long as possible.

Ditches decorated as streams

• But the trenches, those that run remotely and along the perimeter of the territory, can be closed with special decorative gratings. This looks much nicer, and it will save the trench from debris and foreign objects getting into it.

Decorative grating on the drainage ditch

Do not forget that if the trenches will remain open, then you will periodically have to clean them so that they do not clog and perform their functions properly.

With a surface drainage system, the soil in your area will dry out, and you can grow crops in your garden and walk on dry paths.

Construction of deep or closed drainage on your own

If the first option is too simple for you, and the problem lies in the very close approach of groundwater to the surface and their high water content, then a deep drainage system should be installed. It is also called closed. To do it, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and take this matter seriously.

In order to build a drainage site with a high level of groundwater with your own hands, you need to do everything in turn.

Step 1

Initially, you need to determine at what depth the pipes will need to be laid. This value depends on how close to the surface groundwater is located. This can be determined according to this principle - the denser the earth, the less depth is needed. For example:

• sandy soil - at least one meter;
• loam - about 80 cm;
• for clay soil - about 70-75 cm.

But when determining the depth, do not forget to take into account here how deep the soil freezes in winter. It is necessary to lay the pipes of the drainage system below the freezing level. This arrangement will allow you to keep the pipes as long as possible. After all, they will not be deformed and damaged due to freezing of water residues during the frosty period.

Video: site drainage

Step 2

It is necessary to select pipes and the material from which they will be made. To date, most often drainage systems are made of pipes made of perforated plastic. The cost of such material is lower than ceramic products. Yes, and its safety is many times higher, especially when compared with asbestos cement.

But regardless of the material chosen, the pipe itself should be prepared and protected to prevent small particles of sand or earth from getting inside. After all, sooner or later the pipe will become clogged and stop performing its functions.

For such protection, it is good to use special geotextiles. They need to wrap all pipes, just consider the type of soil.

In the case of clay soil, the use of geotextiles is not necessary. But instead of it, create a special pillow of gravel, about twenty centimeters thick. Such a pillow is not needed on loamy soils, but the use of a fabric with filtering functions is mandatory. But if you are the owner of a site with sandy soil, then you need to wrap the pipes with geotextiles and create a gravel cushion from below and above.

Why is this pillow necessary? The fact is that such a layer of sand and gravel is necessary for a drainage pipe. After all, its role is to depreciate. In addition, this is an additional filter ball that traps large particles of soil and other debris that are brought from groundwater and negatively affect the pipes of the system.

If you buy ready-made pipes for drainage, then their manufacture comes from perforated plastic. And the pipe itself is already wrapped in a filter cloth, so you don't have to do it yourself. This will save you a lot of time and money.

Finished pipe for the drainage system

Step 3

Preparation of a place for a water receiver. Even before the start of construction work, you need to choose a place where all the collected groundwater will drain. There may be many options. The easiest way is to create an exit from a suitable pipe that will extend beyond the summer cottage, and the water will drain into the ditch.

The ideal option is the construction of a drainage well. Its purpose has a wider meaning. For example, in addition to collecting excess water from the soil, such a well will help you survive dry periods. After all, you can then take water from it for watering the garden and other household needs. In addition, the withdrawal of the pipe is not always possible.

Drainage well in the country

Step 4

Earthworks begin with digging ditches. They, as in the previous version, should be done under some bias. If there are no other indicators, then for each meter of the trench there should be seven centimeters of slope. To check the degree of slope, use the building level. This should be done as often as possible so as not to redo it in case of deviation.

It is best to arrange trenches according to the herringbone pattern. In this embodiment, all lateral grooves are assembled into one central one. For the central pipe, you need to use with a wider diameter. It is from it that all the water will flow into the well.

Arrangement of pipes according to the herringbone pattern

Step 5

Before laying pipes, care must be taken to prepare the bottom of the ditch. Avoid bumps and sharp drops on the bottom. The pipe must run on a flat bottom to avoid damage and deformation in the future. After all, where there are breaks in the soil, the pipe itself will sag under the pressure of the soil and break. Therefore, it is best to make a pillow for additional cushioning before laying.

Fill the bottom with about 10 centimeters of sand. It is necessary to choose a coarse-grained option. A ball of gravel of the same thickness is laid on top. After leveling the pillow, you can start laying pipes.

There are situations when the creation of such a protective cushion is impossible. Then you need to stock up on geotextiles and line the entire trench with them. So you prevent silting of the drainage pipes.

Pipe cushion

Attention! When selecting filter fabrics, it is worth choosing those that have a low density. If you take very dense options, then groundwater will not quickly seep through it.

Step 6

Installation of a closed drainage system. All pipes must be laid out in ditches in compliance with the plan originally created. Then all of them need to be collected and connected into one network. For connection, use tees and crosses of suitable diameter.

Collection of pipes in the network

Step 7

After the entire network is fully assembled, it is necessary to fill it with sand. The layer should be from 10 to 15 cm. Crushed stone of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand. The void that remains is covered with ordinary earth so that small rollers can be formed. Don't worry about their visibility. The fact is that over time the soil will settle and all the balls will shrink. Therefore, the formed hills will sink to the ground level.

Step 8

The drainage system on your site is ready to go. The main thing is to follow simple rules so that the installed network works properly and for as long as possible. To do this, you do not need to travel through such areas where pipes pass, with equipment with a lot of weight. After all, the pipes will be strongly pressed down, from which they can be damaged. That is why it is better to carry out all construction work on your site before laying this drainage system. So first we build a house, and only then the drainage. The fact is that it is easier to build it than to search for damage and repair it.

Drainage system on site

It should be noted that the drainage network is installed not only to drain excess water. Sometimes its installation is necessary to ensure the vital activity of trees and other plants growing on the site, which are negatively affected by excess moisture.

For such a system, the calculation can be made according to a simplified scheme. In order to determine the depth of the drains, take the average values. Therefore, pipes can run at a depth of 60-150 cm.

Just consider these points:

1. for fruitful trees - 150 cm;
2. for forest trees - 90 cm;
3. for a flower bed, lawn or flower garden - 85-90 cm.

But on peat soil, the trenches should lie lower. After all, such soil is characterized by very strong subsidence. Therefore, pipes pass at a mark from one meter to 160 cm.

Now you can find a lot of information about drainage options depending on the type of soil and other features. For a full assessment of all the features of the upcoming work, it is necessary to study the materials. In addition to the information, it is best to watch the video below, which will help you learn about all the nuances of installing drainage.

Video: installing drainage

But still, do not forget that each drainage system must fully comply not only with your area, but also with your individual needs and capabilities.

Complete and effective drainage of an area with a high water table will help you remove excess water from the soil. At the same time, with your own hands, you can create a design no worse than a purchased one. So you can not only live comfortably there, but also engage in any agricultural work and grow food in the garden. And in soils that are overly saturated with water, this is simply impossible.

Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.

The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.

But, even a foundation that is well-insulated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water constantly pushes, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.

When is a drainage system needed?

• site location. The lower it is, the more urgent the problem of drainage;
• soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
• rainfall in your area;
• groundwater level;
• deepening of other buildings on the site. If the adjacent building has a heavily buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
• the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete paths, an asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type includes storm sewers (storm sewers). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, they can not cope with groundwater.

There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.

Linear drainage

It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.

According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.

open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.

Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.

The principle of the open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for the water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the right direction.

The advantage of an open drainage system can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are shown in the photo.

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used in the case when the area of ​​​​the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.

Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.

• a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;

• geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench;

• the trench is covered with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;

• a layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

deep drainage

The disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.

The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for a closed-type drainage device

• Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:

1. pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
2. located throughout the site, thus the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings, will be protected.

The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo

• Mark the location of the drainage ditches on the site. Usually, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier, trace where the grooves of water remain after the rain - drainage trenches should be laid there.

• Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.

Advice. To check the "workability" of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places where there is a significant accumulation of water.

• Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter the water of impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.

Advice. If you have clay soil - geofabric is required, if crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.

You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.

• Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.

Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest particle of gravel.

• Bring the ends of the pipe into the manholes. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to be able to take care of the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.

Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of ​​the site must converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm.), Which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component of a closed drainage system.

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

1. accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water accumulates in it and is then used for irrigation;
2. absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually sinks into the soil.

• Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top level of the ground 200mm.
• Cover drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
• Wrap the pipes with overlapping geotextile and fix the joints with a rope.
• Fill in sand, earth and/or lay sod.

Advice. On top of a closed system, you can install a surface drainage (storm system) and also lead it to a drainage well.

The finished drainage system in the section is shown in the photo

Conclusion

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.