Horizontal lining. How to lay lining: detailed instructions

You need to know how and with what help it is necessary to carry out certain repairs. It all depends on what kind of room you plan to sheathe.

clapboard- This is a building material, very convenient and reliable for installation. Each board has a special groove on one side and a ledge on the other. And as a result of their fastening, a reliable lock is obtained.

After studying our article, you can easily complete.

Required Tools

Tools and building materials that you will need during the repair: wooden slats (20x40 mm); self-tapping screws and dowel-nails; building level; ; mineral wool; ; mounting stapler; polypropylene twine; directly lining itself; kleimers; a hammer; plinth; finishing nails and bioprotective special composition.

Stages of preparatory work

Let's start with installation. To do this, you will need wooden slats 20x40 mm, self-tapping screws and dowel-nails, building level and. The slats must be fixed on the wall, while placing them strictly perpendicular to the subsequent direction of the lining. Before fixing, check the evenness of the wall surface using a building level. If the wall is not completely flat, place a piece under the rail and check again for evenness.

Installation of the crate under the lining

The step of the rails is no more than 50 cm. The lower rail is fixed at a distance of 5 cm from the floor. The top rail is installed at the level of fastening parts and ceiling elements. They also mount rails in all corners and around windows and doors.

An important point, all construction work on the installation of electrical wiring should be carried out before the installation of the crate, since after the installation is completed and the lining is installed, this will simply be impossible to do.

After installing the crate, we proceed to heat and. To do this, you will need a heat-insulating building material (), waterproofing building material (), a mounting stapler and polypropylene twine. You can mount the vapor barrier before installing the crate, and after that, put the second layer on top after filling it with mineral wool.

When mounting and installing a vapor barrier, fasten it with the rough side to the insulation. or make a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm and be sure to fix the joints with tape along the entire length. The waterproofing is fastened using a mounting stapler in increments of 15 cm. So that the mineral wool does not slip or deform over time, it must be fastened with polypropylene twine. Polypropylene twine is also fastened using a mounting stapler.

Installation and installation of lining

Installation and installation of lining. For this work, you will need panels, finishing nails, a building level, a hammer and a small piece of lining. Before proceeding with the installation and installation, it is necessary that the unpacked lining lie down for some time in the room in which it will be installed (at least 48 hours). Always start the installation of the first wooden panel from the corner. Fasten to the crate with finishing nails or clamps. If you use kleimers during installation, then in the future the lining can be easily dismantled on your own. After that, you can use this material for installation and installation in any other place.

Hidden fastening of lining with carnations

After installing the first lining and fastening it, insert the comb of the second panel into the groove and fasten it again. The second and subsequent linings will be quite difficult to insert with your hands, most likely they will be difficult to enter. To facilitate this process, there is no need to buy a special tool. You can make it yourself. To do this, take a small piece of a sawn-off wooden panel and, inserting it with a comb into the groove of the next lining to be installed, gently tap it with a hammer. This must be done along the entire length of the lining until it fits snugly enough. Additionally, you can fix the boards with nails from above and below.

Measure every sixth board with a building level so that the installation is without deviations. There must be a gap of at least 2 cm between the lining and the load-bearing wall. This is necessary so that in the future the wooden wall remains perfectly flat without any serious deviations.

After we have installed all the panels, we proceed to the installation of fittings. At the penultimate stage, the following tools and parts will be needed: a hammer, plinth, finishing nails and a dumbbell. We continue to build with our own hands. In order for the lining to take on a beautiful well-groomed appearance, it is necessary to attach all the corner joints and cover all the gaps between the ceiling and the floor. For corner joints use a narrow skirting board, for lower and upper gaps it is necessary to use a skirting board with such dimensions as to close these gaps. The plinth is fastened with finishing nails.

Wall processing

And the final stage is the processing of the walls. The final and very important repair procedure remains: the treatment of all mounted wooden walls with a fire-retardant special composition or. This must be done at least three times every subsequent day. After this treatment, your walls will serve you for a very long time. In winter you will be very warm, and in summer - cool.

This completes the installation and installation of the lining! We hope that thanks to our article you will not have any difficulties with the installation and installation of lining with your own hands! Good luck with your repair!

More than half of the owners of country houses prefer to produce interior wall decoration using lining. And this is not surprising: lining is an excellent material that gives the home an attractive appearance. In addition, it is quite easy to mount it, and if necessary, you can do it yourself.

Interior clapboard decoration is a familiar way to make the interior of a country house cozy and practical.

Lining laying directions

Today, manufacturers offer several types of lining. It can be wood, MDF or plastic. Wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly type of finishing materials, giving the house coziness and comfort. In addition, the tree always compares favorably with its appearance.

Horizontal clapboard trim makes the room visually wider, but lower - therefore, this method of laying the clapboard should be used in large rooms.

Getting started with this type of finish, first of all, it is necessary to determine the direction along which the material will be attached. So, there are several features when choosing a direction:

1. When fastening the lining vertically, the room visually decreases, but becomes higher.
2. Horizontal mounting allows you to visually make the room wider, but lower.
3. Laying the material at an angle (diagonally) avoids negative visual effects and looks more sophisticated, but requires more financial costs and work skills.

When installing the material, if necessary, you can combine all three directions of laying. This will give the house originality and individuality.

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Lining fastening rules

If the wall of the house is made of wood, has a flat and smooth surface, then you can mount the elements directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall decoration to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use a crate.

When the direction is determined, the necessary material and tools should be purchased. For vertical or horizontal fastening of the lining you will need:

The technologies for horizontal, diagonal and vertical lining laying are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.

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Laying the crate for fastening elements

The crate is made of even, well-dried wooden slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm. Before starting work, all slats must be treated with an antiseptic solution to avoid mold and decay.

Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the entrance. In the corner, using a plumb line, the first rail is installed strictly vertically. The rail is fastened to the wall with plastic dowels and long screws with a pitch of about 50 cm. When fastening, it is advisable to use wooden spacers.

In the opposite corner of the room, a second rail is mounted in a manner similar to that described. At the top and bottom of the wall, both slats are connected by two well-tensioned cords, which will later serve as a guide for attaching horizontal slats in the upper and lower parts of the wall.

According to the position of the ropes, horizontal rails are mounted near the plinth and under the ceiling. The next horizontal rail is attached 50 cm from the bottom. You can determine the horizontal position of the mount either with a cord stretched between two corner rails, or with a rule inserted between the horizontal rails. In the same way, all subsequent horizontal slats of the crate are attached.

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Installation of lining elements

When the installation of the crate is completed on all walls, you can attach a wooden lining. As a rule, work always starts from the left corner of the room. First of all, you need to prepare the material. This requires each of its elements to give the desired length. With the help of an electric jigsaw or a fine-toothed saw, the lining is sawn off in such a way that its length is 0.5-1 cm less than the height of the wall.

Then the first element is attached to the crate with a comb in the corner. Fastening is usually done with finishing nails, hammering them into the crest of the element to each lath of the crate. In addition, you can also fix the material with screws, but here you need to pay attention to their thickness: screws that are too thick can lead to cracking of the lining. With this in mind, when using screws instead of nails, you must first drill holes for fasteners with a drill.

Subsequent elements of the lining with a comb are mounted in the grooves of the previous ones and are attached to the crate by the bottom flange of the groove. At the same time, the ridges hide the caps of the fasteners. When fastening elements with nails, it is also necessary to take into account some features. For example, in order not to damage the front side of the finish, it is only necessary to drive a nail into the comb with a hammer to the middle, then it is finished off with a blunt core or punch.

Instead of nails or screws, you can also use special fasteners that do not damage the lining elements - kleimers. Kleimers are metal staples that are put on the groove of the element and nailed to the crate. In this case, you can use both small cloves, and screws, and staples of a construction stapler.

In similar ways, all elements of the material are mounted on the wall. Occasionally, it is necessary to control the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. The last element of the lining is cut to the desired width and nailed to the corner rail.

From the element that will be attached to the next wall first, cut off the comb: in this way, it will close the fastener caps on the last element of the previous wall. All finishing material is laid in a similar way.

Lining today is one of the most popular materials for home decoration, and it will be useful to learn how to mount eurolining on your own without outside help. It should be noted that this process is quite time-consuming, but, despite this, everything can be organized by hand.

Preparatory work

In order to avoid problems during the installation process, you must know a few rules, the implementation of which is mandatory:

• it is necessary to properly store the lining. It should be in a package, in a room without strong temperature changes, so that the sun's rays do not fall directly on the material, and most importantly, the room where the lining will be stored should be dry;
• two days before the start of work, you must get the material out of the package;
• before starting repair work, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the material. This can be done with a dry cloth;
• do not forget to treat the lining with an antiseptic and leave for a while - so that it dries;
• do-it-yourself installation of eurolining can be done at temperatures not lower than + 5 ° C, while the humidity should not exceed 55%;
• in the event that you will cover the lining with any decorative coatings, the best option would be to complete this work before you proceed with the installation, then the material will be painted evenly.

Advice! Do not use varnish for painting eurolining, which is intended for use in baths. Choose compositions for outdoor or indoor use - depending on the use of panels.

We calculate the material

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of material for wall and ceiling sheathing, you will need to take into account the dimensions of the surface that you will be sheathing and the width of the board. It should also be taken into account that the spike of the longitudinal type in the process of attaching the board to the wall or ceiling will go into the groove of the previous board, which means that its width will decrease by 10-12 millimeters.

Example:

1. Sheathed surface 2.5x4 m.
2. The width of the board is 96 millimeters.
3. We take into account the insertion of the spike into the groove, we get: 96-10 = 86mm.
4. Further calculation is carried out according to the formula: 4000/47 \u003d 47 boards of 2.5 meters each.
5. We fix the lining on the wall.

In order to create a stylish interior in a room, you must strictly follow the rules for attaching eurolining. If you do not deviate from the instructions, in the end you will get a beautiful design, and the lining will serve you for a long time.

You must understand that you can attach the material directly to the wall only in the case of perfectly flat surfaces (unfortunately, walls and ceilings are very rarely perfectly flat), moreover, they must be made of wood.

On walls made of brick and reinforced concrete, it is strictly forbidden to mount eurolining, therefore, in order to create a beautiful construction of eurolining on your walls or ceiling, you need to install a crate of wooden beams.

We install the crate

The crate is wooden slats, most often their thickness is about 30 mm. They are attached to the ceiling, floor or wall, thereby forming the so-called frame for the further installation of the lining. The installation of the crate should be perpendicular to the fastening of the lining. To make it clearer, let us explain: if the lining is mounted vertically, then the battens of the crate should be located horizontally, and vice versa.

Reiki are fastened from each other at a distance of 60-80 mm, this is if you make a frame on the wall. If you install the crate on the ceiling or floor, then this distance will be 40 mm.

Tip: Do not forget, during the installation of the crate, you must use a level or plumb line to make the whole structure even.

Some do not understand why such a design as a crate is needed. After all, installing it takes a lot of time. In fact, it is necessary for several reasons.

If you want your interior to be perfect, even and proportional, then installing a crate is a mandatory step in creating a composition from. The second reason is the presence of ventilation of the boards, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the air in the room.

Do not forget! Ideal slats for creating a frame - 35x55 mm. They should not have any defects and they should be even.

How to fix the lining

There are several ways to fasten the lining, which we will now present to you. The design should be smooth and beautiful.

Fasten with screws:

• To begin with, you must drill a small hole in the lining to secure the self-tapping screw, and this must be done from the side of the spike;
• when we make the installation of lining. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes we made. Do not forget to cover their hats with a dowel;
• If the dowels protrude, after all the work they are cut off. Don't forget to sand the surface afterwards.

Staple fastening:

• In this way, the material is usually attached to the ceiling from the floor.
• Fastening is carried out using a stapler, which drives the staples at an angle of 45 ° into the spike, thereby making it possible to install subsequent boards without interference.

Fasten with nails:

• This method is not much different from the previous one.
• The difference between them is that in this method, instead of brackets, they use .
• In order to keep the nail heads from sticking out and not being visible, you will need a tool like a puncher, because the protruding hats will not give you the opportunity to continue with the installation of the next board.

Fasten with dowels:

• The considered method involves mounting from below, and nothing else.
• We fix the first board from below with self-tapping screws, and from below. Do not forget to twist the hats with a dowel.
• After the work done, we proceed to the installation of the next panel. In the upper part of the previous board, directly into the spike, we screw the self-tapping screw, and so that its head is flush with the spike itself (with its surface).
• On top of the attached board, the next one is superimposed, which, in turn, closes the fastening of the previous one. That is why the method is called secret fastening. It should be noted that the use of both staples and self-tapping screws is appropriate here.
• After the installation process is over, you can start cutting the protruding dowels. If you do the whole process correctly, you will end up with a flat and smooth surface.

Any of these methods will give you a positive result, but only if you do everything correctly and consistently.

So, the instructions for fastening eurolining:

• Let's start by taking one panel - we will set it strictly vertically. In order for everything to turn out clearly, it is necessary to use a level, and during the entire process, this is the only way you will ensure that the entire structure you are building will be even.
• Do not forget that you will need to fasten the first board precisely from the corner (from which side it does not matter, you want it on the right, but you want it on the left).
• The boards that you will expose next should be attached to the side of the previous board with a spike. We fix the board in any way you choose. If you have any questions, please see our

Lining - a real eco-friendly material

Over the past twenty years, lining as a finishing material has gained unprecedented popularity. At the same time, its qualities were appreciated by everyone, from large repair companies to those who prefer to do the finishing on their own and know how to lay the lining.

Lining - ease of installation with high environmental friendliness

This article will talk about how to properly lay the lining, showing that this process is very simple.

Judge for yourself:

• Easy installation;
• Natural wood in the composition of the material;
• Outer beauty;
• Surfaces are aligned visually;
• It is very convenient for finishing not only houses and cottages, but also.

It is noteworthy that this material behaves well when lining baths and saunas, because there, in conditions of too high temperatures and high humidity, using any other material is harmful to health.

Production of lining

To get lining sheets, it is customary to use special machines used in woodworking, which are distinguished by four sides and high manufacturability. Thanks to this equipment, it is possible to obtain products with different profiles and thicknesses.

In addition, depending on the quality of processing and the type of wood, the resulting lining can be divided into grades by the standards of European indicators - grades from Extra to C.

A little more about the classification:

• Extra. These are ideal boards, there are no knots or mechanical damage on them. Humidity is 8%;

• Premium grade, labeled "A". These are rather smooth boards, there are no mechanical damages (chips and cracks), there is no blue. As a tolerance, here is a small knot, provided that it is light.
• Standard grade, marked "B". It is wood without blue, qualitatively processed, there are no cracks. As a tolerance - light and dark knots.
• Economy grade, labeled "C". Here, in addition to knots, small chips are possible, as well as cracks, the size of which is up to 0.3 mm.
• All varieties have a moisture content of no more than 12%.
• Lining can also be divided depending on the type of wood. Most often used pine, spruce, linden, aspen, larch. Oak, maple and other species are used a little less often.

Most often, pine and spruce are used for the production of lining. This is due to their beautiful texture of a golden hue, as well as ease of processing and durability.

A noble material for the production of lining - which grows over a large geographical interval up to the Far East.

However, the mass production of lining from this type of wood is not observed due to the fact that the production of lining here is somewhat complicated by technological features.

Wood species such as linden and aspen are very popular for use. Often, it is linden lining that is used for finishing baths, where the use of other species is not possible.

Installation of lining

Preparation stage

Slicing lining

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate all the surface areas where the lining is planned to be laid.
2. Next, you should purchase the number of boards that will be required according to the calculations. Be sure to add a small amount to this amount in the amount of ten percent of the total.
3. When choosing boards, it is advisable to choose their length so that possible cuts are minimal, this will save money.
4. If we are talking about the interior decoration of residential premises, then we need spruce or pine lining, its width can be from 80 to 110 cm, and the thickness is in the range of 12-16 mm.
5. The moisture content of the lining should not exceed 12%, since cracks may form during shrinkage and drying, as a result of which the boards themselves will diverge in the future.

The next step is to determine the option for laying the lining. If we are talking about sheathing a small room with a high ceiling, then the material should be laid horizontally. If the walls are too high, vertical masonry should be used to simplify the task and save material. Sometimes a herringbone mounting method is used, but it is most often used when decorating walls from the outside.

An important stage is the preparation of the lining itself, which must be unpacked and laid in the room where it is planned to be laid, so that the material undergoes the so-called acclimatization and does not undergo further deformation.

Lathing installation

Before proceeding with the design of the frame-battens, it is necessary to align the walls as much as possible. For example, if the surface of an unrounded log is used as the basis for laying the frame, the protruding parts of the logs must be cut down with an ax and then leveled with a planer.

It is important! Before making the crate, the bars, 50x40 (or 30) mm in size, should be treated with an antiseptic.

After preparing, you should proceed with the installation of the crate. Most often, the technology of laying the lining in a vertical position is used, and we will consider it, proceeding to the implementation of the crate.

• The lower bar is set at the level of the floor, and the upper bar at the level of the ceiling.
• The evenness of their installation can be checked using a level or plumb line.
• Laces should be pulled between the bars in the corners, then one more is added to them with a step of 1.5 meters.
• The bars should be fixed at a distance of 90-100 cm between them using self-tapping screws. If there are irregularities on the wall, the crate should be leveled in one plane using linings for the bars. But the use of self-tapping screws is mandatory.

Attention! To install the bars on stone walls (brick), they should be fixed with plastic dowels and self-tapping screws. It is also possible to use wooden corks.

Installing lining on the wall

• The lining should be laid from the corner of the room, and the most careful attention should be paid to installing the first plank, leveling its verticality with a level, and attaching it to the base bars.
• It must be installed in a corner with a comb, the groove will always go in the open side, finishing nails are hammered into it. In addition, a clamp can be installed from the side of the groove, if this is planned. Accordingly, the next lining with its crest will overlap the attachment point of the previous one (photo).
• Each lining from the upper and lower parts is attached closer to the edge, this will then allow you to hide part of it with skirting boards or ceiling cornices.
• In the event that one of the boards does not lie entirely in the corner of the room, the excess part of it should be cut along the entire length with a jigsaw. When installing the material, one should take into account the possible shrinkage of the house and the change in the size of the boards in case of changes in the level of humidity. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the upper and lower levels of the room, which will later be closed with skirting boards.

Using lining for doorways and windows

The most difficult moment in the work of lining the room with a clapboard is the design of door and window openings. In the event that during the process of laying the lining at the door slope or window opening, the lining will protrude beyond it, you should cut off the excess with a jigsaw, having previously measured it with a pencil. In the process of finishing, the slopes can be decorated with plastic and wood corners.

A few more words about lining

Do not forget about how to properly lay the lining on the plane of the ceiling. In principle, the procedure is similar to mounting on walls, however, to strengthen the structure, the distance between the elements of the crate should be reduced. It should be approximately 70-80 cm. In addition, it is necessary to calculate the position of a wide bar at the junction of the planks.

laying down, planks must be joined together along the length. Or another way out is to buy a lining of great length, which, however, is difficult when installing a small room.

If you are going to ask yourself how to lay the lining in a san or a bath, it is worth noting that these rooms differ in their specifics. As a result, the laying technology will be different.

Some features of laying lining in baths and saunas:

• During the creation of the lathing in the sauna, the surfaces of the walls and ceilings should be covered with foil, which will be fastened with brackets.
• For such premises, only linden or aspen lining is suitable.
• Finishing elements that play a decorative role should also be made from the same type of wood from which the lining is made.

The instruction above will allow you to make an excellent and high-quality finish with your own hands of any premises, whether it is a country house, a bathhouse or a sauna. At the same time, the price of products will not be high, and the work will be easy to perform. To better familiarize yourself with the process, we advise you to watch the video.

Various materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the common options for cladding surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Ways of fastening lining

Try to lay the bars evenly

Mounting the lining on the walls is best done with the help of a crate - a wooden frame. To do this, all the bars of the crate, both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane, must be set exactly.

Even minor mistakes can eventually lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the crate is completed, the lining is fixed. Below you can see the scheme of the crate for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if the lining is used for facing surfaces in the bath, the material must first be treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the method of fastening. For walls and ceilings, the work will be the same. There are two ways to place boards:

1. Vertical. With this method of placement, work starts from one of the nodes. The first board is fixed with a groove outward. The next bar is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fixing the board with the help of a level, the evenness of its placement is checked.
2. Horizontal. With this placement, the spike of the board is directed upwards, this allows water to roll down the finish. Such installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not fasten the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, a small section of the board is inserted into the groove of the finish panel, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent cracks or holes from appearing.

When installing the lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, after a certain time, the boards may swell. After finishing, the cracks are covered with a plinth.

Regardless of the fastening method chosen, the first and last plank is fastened with small-headed nails.

The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:

• using screws, screws or nails;
• clasps. This is the name of the clamps, which have a design with a special holder holding the spike of the board;
• construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the crate and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the remaining bars of the crate.

Fastening with nails

A standard size board will take 6-7 nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not able to provide a long service life of the structure. When hammering, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a doboynik or pre-make holes in the desired section of the panel.

For one board of standard sizes, you will need about 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving. But in some situations, this method of fastening is the only possible solution.

For such work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered. The caps are hammered in with the help of a doboynik, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Choose quality fasteners

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not really matter. Often you can find the use of this method for building baths.

But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can cause the fasteners to dry out, further deteriorating the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to process the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are sufficiently high-quality fasteners, so if you need a long service life of the finish, their use can be considered the best solution.

To carry out such fasteners in the boards, you will need to first make holes. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board with a screwdriver. They must enter as deep as possible. To hide the place of fastening, you can use a wooden pin or grind the surface.

Stapler fastening

How to fix the lining to the wall with a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and will not take you much time and effort. But at the same time, you will need the ability to use such a tool. For more information on how to fix the lining with a stapler, see this video:

The staples must be inserted at a 45° angle. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar insertion procedure will proceed without complications.

Fastening with clamps

It is convenient to use clamps for hidden fasteners

Clamps will allow you to provide hidden fasteners for almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Installation of lining with the help of such devices will achieve the following advantages:

1. With the right choice of fastener size, you can install discreetly and guarantee its strength.
2. Clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bath rooms.

Clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased for mounting eurolining of a standard profile, and 6 mm for fixing a block house. To finish 1 m2 of surface, you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixing, the plate is put on the spike of the first panel and attached to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to mount the lining on one nail, as it can be pulled out.

Screwing screws is best done with a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal lining installation

When boards are placed horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you can clearly see how best to fix the finish. In the ceiling section, the final board is cut in width, which will significantly worsen the decorative component. In addition, with this method of installation, there will be holes between the boards, which will negatively affect the high levels of moisture in the bath or sauna. For more information on how to sheathe a house with clapboard horizontally, see this video:

Therefore, basically with horizontal placement, the boards begin to be fixed from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first comb into the groove of the previous one.

According to this scheme, the installation of all boards is carried out. The final plank is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden with a plinth.

As you can see, lining can be fastened in different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help is most likely not required.