Hippeastrum: home care, transplantation and reproduction. Hippeastrum flower: description, care and cultivation at home, replanting and flowering Hippeastrum flower care at home

Among indoor flowers, hippeastrum is particularly attractive, as it is at the same time a rather complex plant in terms of planting and care. For this reason, not all gardeners manage to achieve its flowering. Below we will tell you everything about growing it and overcoming possible problems.

Hippeastrum - description of the flower


Hippeastrum flowers belong to a perennial plant emerging from a bulb. When it blooms and grows, large linear leaves are formed, which can stretch up to 70 cm and have a width of 4-5 cm. They are arranged in two rows, opposite each other.

Did you know? Although most hippeastrum leaves have the usual green color, a number of varieties have purple leaves, which makes the plant especially attractive even without flowering.

With proper care, an inflorescence with 2-6 flowers appears on the hippeastrum. The flowers are large, can reach 15 cm in length, and their width is often 25 cm.

Their color can be very different: from white to dark red. After flowering, a fruit is formed in the form of a box, in which the hippeastrum seeds ripen.

When fully ripe, they can be used for planting and obtaining bulbs, since they have 100% germination rate.

However, this plant is quite difficult to grow at home, as it differs in a number of features:

  1. It is almost impossible to obtain seeds suitable for future sowings from light and white varieties of hippeastrum, since they are hybrids.
  2. For full growth of the plant in the summer, it is good to plant it in the garden, digging it together with the pot into the soil.
  3. Despite the fact that it is quite difficult to achieve hippeastrum flowering at home, you should be prepared for the fact that all efforts will be made for only 10 days of flowering.

Choosing a pot for hippeastrum


The size of the pot will directly depend on the size of the hippeastrum bulb. Please note: when planting, the bulb should be placed in the middle of the pot, leaving 5 cm to each edge. Thus, the pot for this flower must be at least 15 cm in diameter.

As for the height of the pot, on the contrary, it should not be too high, because the bulb does not need to be completely immersed in the soil ( its upper part remains half above the ground). In addition, at the bottom of the pot it will be necessary to lay out drainage from stones, and above it there is still a fairly large layer of soil.

There are no clear restrictions regarding the material of the container for hippeastrum, but it is still better to use ordinary plastic pots for this plant.

This is due to the fact that ceramics can heat up intensely in the sun, often causing overheating of the flower bulb. In this case, his death will be inevitable.

Choosing soil for hippeastrum

Hippeastrum flowers are quite demanding on the composition of the soil in the pot, so it must be prepared especially carefully.

The most important requirement is lightness of the soil, which could quickly pass moisture through itself and provide good air supply to the bulb.

It is also important that the soil contains a lot of organic fertilizers, and its acidity level does not exceed 6 pH.

It is quite difficult to obtain such a soil mixture by mixing it yourself, so it is better to go to a specialized store and purchase ready-made soil for bulbous indoor flowers. It’s true that it wouldn’t hurt to add a little sand to the purchased soil.

If you still decide to prepare a soil mixture for hippeastrums yourself, then use the following components for it (the ratio is indicated in numbers):

  • clay-turf soil (2);
  • leaf soil(1);
  • humus (1);
  • peat (1);
  • sand (1).

Which hippeastrum bulbs are best to choose?

Most often, hippeastrum is propagated by bulbs, which can be purchased at a regular flower shop. However, when choosing bulbs, you must remain as careful as possible, since spoiled planting material will only bring you trouble.

It is worth going for them in spring or autumn, since this is the ideal time for forcing a flower.

The most important key to getting a large and healthy flower is This is the use of large bulbs that store a sufficient supply of nutrients. Thanks to this, not only will a large plant grow from the bulb, but it will also be guaranteed to bloom.

But in addition to its large size, the bulb must also have a strong neck and bottom. It’s great if its upper scales are dry and brown. If there are seals, red or dark spots, or rot on the bulb, it has already deteriorated and is not worth buying.

But often bulbs are sold not just in bags without soil, but also in pots. In such cases, when purchasing a flower, it is necessary to inspect the roots of the bulb, which should be visible through the hole in the bottom of the pot.


A healthy bulb will be indicated by:

  • roots are white;
  • the body of the bulb is hard and strong to the touch;
  • dry, brown scales;
  • absence of wet or discolored areas.

Important! If the store offers significant discounts on hippeastrum bulbs, be sure to ask the sellers what they are connected with. Very often this is done to sell rotten planting material, although prices may also be reduced due to the end of the planting season.

Where to place the hippeastrum?

Hippeastrums love moderate temperatures, which during their growing season should not exceed +23 ˚С, but should not fall below +17 ˚С.

However, if we are talking about the plant’s dormant period, then it is better to remove the bulb from the room and take it to the basement, where the temperature is at +10 ˚С.

Since hippeastrums love a lot of sun, their place is only near a window, into which light falls almost throughout the day. But the sun's rays should not shine directly on the flower; it is better to curtain the window with thick tulle so that the leaves and flowers of the hippeastrum do not get burned.

In this case, the flower pot should be constantly rotated, otherwise it may stretch to one side.

Hippeastrum needs good lighting even after flowering, since without it the bulb and seeds in the box will not be able to fully ripen for the next planting.

Air humidity is also important for the flower, and if it is low, it will need spraying (just make sure that drops of water do not fall on the flowers).

Planting and propagation of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum suggests the possibility of planting in a variety of ways, among which at home you can use both seeds and parts of the plant. You can try each of them.

Seed method

Planting hippeastrum in a pot by seed involves the full maturation of the box formed after flowering.

It is very important that during this period the plant receives enough nutrients, moisture and sunlight, since otherwise the seeds may not ripen.

When the box with them is completely dry, it is simply torn off, after which the seeds can be immediately used for sowing.


Please note that when propagating hippeastrum from seeds, in the first year of sowing, the bulb in the ground is just beginning to form, which means that only next year it will be able to produce an arrow with leaves. It may take another 1-2 years before full flowering occurs.

However, despite the need for a long wait for flowering, it is thanks to the seed method that it is possible to obtain varietal hippeastrums with a clear manifestation of all characteristics.

Vegetative methods

Vegetative methods of propagating hippeastrums involve either the use of daughter bulbs that are formed near the main one (they can be separated only after the diameter reaches at least 2 cm), or by dividing the bulbs into two parts.

Both of these options are used only when transplanting a flower, when the bulb is dug out of the soil.

When planting hippeastrums using daughter bulbs, flowering also does not occur in the first year. They need 2-3 years to ripen and gain strength for flowering.

Planting technology

When planting a bulb in pre-prepared soil, it is important to consider the following nuances:


Important! If during planting or transplanting the bulb there are scales on it that can be easily removed with your fingers, it is better to remove them immediately, since they are already dead and will rot if they come into contact with moisture.

Growing hippeastrum in a pot

When growing hippeastrums at home, the flowers need to be given a lot of attention and care. Although in general it consists of providing a good place to grow, watering and fertilizing, this plant still has its own requirements for all these aspects.

Watering hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is quite whimsical in watering, since it cannot be over-filled with water, nor allowed to suffer a lack of moisture. Also, during each growing season of a flower, it requires special water balance:

Please note that water should not fall on the bulb - it should only be poured into the soil.

Fertilizer and feeding

Fertilizer for hippeastrum must be selected taking into account the stage of flower development. In addition, it is important to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers.

First, it is better to buy special fertilizers intended for bulbous indoor plants. Feeding the hippeastrum proceeds according to the following scheme:


Hippeastrums respond best to fertilizing with potassium fertilizers. In general, soil fertilization should be done every two weeks, but nutrients should not be applied to dry soil.

In addition, if you have just transplanted or planted hippeastrum, the first feeding must be done no earlier than after 1 month.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

It often happens that a bulb produces arrows with leaves for several years in a row, but a peduncle does not appear on it. The first reason may be that the bulb is too small, which simply does not have enough strength to flower,

Hipperastrum is one of the most beautiful flowering houseplants. Its flowers appear on windowsills in the dead of winter. These are large, bell-shaped flowers that vary in color, from pure white to dark burgundy, almost black. Caring for this plant is not difficult, although some nuances are required in order for the hippeastrum to bloom and reproduce stably at home.

Hippeastrum is a large bulb from which grow strap-shaped, dark green leaves. Later, a flower arrow appears, which, as a rule, rises above the leaves.

This plant is very often confused with amaryllis, with which it is very similar in appearance. But they are quite easy to distinguish: the main feature is that the hippeastrum has a hollow stem, while the amaryllis does not.

The most beautiful and popular varieties of hippeastrum

Currently, there are more than 1000 varieties of hippeastrum in the world, which are distinguished by a variety of colors and flower shapes.

The most popular and beautiful varieties:

Hippeastrum Pappilo

Hippeastrum Papilio - has a very unusual petal shape and striped color. Inside, the petals are burgundy in color, which gradually turns white and green.

Hippeastrum Elvas

Hippeastrum Elvas is a very beautiful, double variety, with petals that change color from burgundy inside to light pink outside.

Hippeastrum Red Peacock

Hippeastrum Red Peacock is a semi-double hippeastrum with scarlet flowers.

Hippeastrum-appl-blossom

Hippeastrum Apple Blossom - has white and pink flowers that are large in size. Apple blossom is one of the most common varieties.

HippeastrumGalaxyMinerva

Hippestrum Minerva is a variety with simple red flowers with a white star in the middle.

Caring for hippeastrum at home

To enjoy the flowering of hippeastrum for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

Caring for hippeastrum involves the following activities:

Growing

The pot for hippeastrum is chosen to be deep and of small diameter; ideally it should be only a few centimeters larger than the diameter of the bulbs. They should be deep, because the bulb has quite long fleshy roots.

When planting, the bulb should not be buried; at most, the neck of the bulb should be at ground level, but it is better if 1/2 to 1/3 of the bulb rises above the soil surface.

Photo of planting hippeastrum in a pot

The soil chosen is loose and nutritious; fine expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot, since the roots of the plant are sensitive to stagnation of water. It is for this reason that you need to ensure that after watering the water does not stagnate in the saucer.

You can use any pots for planting, plastic or ceramic.

Please note that when growing varieties with tall, massive arrows in plastic pots, care must be taken to weigh the pot down so that it does not tip over under the weight of the plant.

Location

To grow hippeastrum, choose the brightest places. Window sills are ideal for this. Since hippeastrum blooms in winter, it can even be grown on southern windows.

After the arrow has fully grown and the buds have formed on it, the flower pot can be moved to the back of the room.

Watering

During the period of active growth, which begins in January-December, the plant requires regular watering; the soil in the pot should not dry out.

Water the hippeastrum with settled water at room temperature. If watering is carried out with cold water, this can lead to rotting of the roots and slower growth of the flower shoot.

You can sometimes give a flower a warm shower, but only if there are no buds, that is, until the veil on the flower shoot opens, under which the buds are hidden.

Top dressing

During the period of growth of green mass, and especially flower shoots, you need to regularly feed the hippeastrum with mineral complex fertilizer. Feeding should be done once every two weeks.

Before fertilizing, you need to thoroughly water the soil in the pot so that the fertilizer does not burn the tender roots of the bulb.

It is not advisable to feed hippeastrum with organic fertilizer, because the bulb may begin to fatten and grow leaves, but not bloom.

The last feeding is carried out after flowering, but before the flower arrow dries.

During the dormant period, even if the plant has not shed its leaves, there is no need to feed it.

Transfer

Replanting should be done annually, keeping the plant for a maximum of two years without replacing the soil.

The plant is replanted before active growth begins, during the period when new roots begin to appear at the bottom of the bulb; by this time, almost all of the old ones have dried out and must be carefully removed.

After transplantation, the plant is watered very carefully and in small quantities, only to maintain low soil moisture. Otherwise, the bulb may not have time to grow a sufficient number of roots, which will consume water and the soil will begin to turn sour, and the bottom of the plant may rot due to excess moisture.

Reproduction of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is propagated either by seeds or by baby bulbs produced by the mother bulb.

Seed propagation is suitable only for breeding purposes, since seedlings obtained this way will not repeat the parental qualities. Therefore, to preserve the varietal identity, hippeastrum must be propagated vegetatively.

Rest period

For annual flowering, hippeastrum bulbs need to be provided with an annual dormant period after each flowering. The method of preserving the plant during the dormant period is chosen based on its biological characteristics and the preferences of the grower.

You can provide rest to the plant in the following ways:

  1. Leave the bulb after flowering in the same pot, and determine its place depending on whether it completely sheds its leaves or not. If a few leaves remain on the bulb, then the pot continues to be kept in a bright place; if the bulb has dropped all the leaves and fallen asleep, it is transferred to storage in a dark, dry place for 2-3 months, occasionally spraying the ground.
  2. You can also force the bulbs to go to rest after flowering. To do this, after the flower arrow dries, the plant stops watering and after a while all the leaves dry out. After this, the bulbs are removed from the ground, wrapped in several layers of paper and stored in a dark, dry place. Periodically checking that they do not start to grow.
  3. Another way to give the plant a rest is to plant it in open ground for the summer. But you need to choose the sunniest place, without stagnant moisture. It is also necessary to have time to dig up the plant before the onset of cold weather. This is a rather troublesome method, but if all agricultural technology conditions are met, the hippeastrum increases the mass of the bulb and blooms more readily and abundantly.

How to make hippeastrum bloom at the right time

Hippeastrum is a very flexible plant and you can adjust the timing of its flowering by moving it to the summer or to a certain date.

To successfully force hippeastrum, you must follow the following rules:

  1. The largest bulb is selected for forcing; it will produce a good flower shoot with a large number of buds. Depending on the variety, there may be 2-3 arrows.
  2. Before forcing, the bulb must rest for at least 1.5-2 months.
  3. When forcing, the bulbs are buried only halfway;
  4. The pot with the bulb is placed in the warmest and brightest place, but is not watered so that the growth of leaves does not begin, which will delay the start of flowering.
  5. Ideally, the flower arrow will appear in two weeks, and after another two or three, the first flower will bloom.
  6. Knowing the approximate timing, you can calculate the flowering of hippeastrum by a certain date.

After flowering is over, the bulb is cared for as in normal cultivation.

PLEASE NOTE

You cannot use the same bulb two or more times in a row; it is best to send forced bulbs to a long rest.

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

The most common and dangerous disease of hippeastrum is stanogospois or red burn. This disease is infectious and if elimination measures are not taken in time, the entire collection can become infected. Stanogospoiz manifests itself in redness of the scales of the bulb; at first it is almost imperceptible and expressed in spots. Then all the scales turn red. The last stage is rotting of the affected area. The disease can manifest itself on both the upper and inner scales.

In the photo, a hippeastrum bulb infected with a red burn

Many gardeners believe that a bulb affected by this disease cannot be cured and it is better to destroy it. But this is not true, especially if the disease has just begun.

Treatment of a red burn:

  1. It is necessary to cut out all the affected areas, or even better, completely remove the affected scales;
  2. If the lesion comes close to the bottom, then these places should also be cut off;
  3. After each circumcision, you need to wipe the knife with cotton wool soaked in alcohol or another disinfectant solution;
  4. Then soak the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate or the preparations Maxim, Khom;
  5. If it was not possible to cure the bulb the first time, then the entire procedure must be repeated after 3-4 weeks.

When treating this disease, it is better to remove more scales, even if the bulb becomes very small and will not be removed for several years, but this is preferable to losing it, especially when it comes to expensive varieties.

The main reason for the appearance of red burn is considered to be excess humidity at low temperatures; this is especially important to pay attention to if the bulbs are planted outside during the rest period.

Other diseases and pests of hippeastrum

  • Rooting of the root system as a result of excessive watering. It can be identified by its appearance - the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the bulb becomes sluggish and soft. It is treated by removing the plant from the soil and removing all affected parts.
  • Thrips. The presence of this pest manifests itself in the form of white spots on the leaves. They are controlled with conventional insecticides;
  • The scale leaves brown and yellow tubercles on the leaves. You can treat the leaves with an insecticide or alcohol solution.
  • The narcissus fly is another pest of the hippeastrum. She lays her larvae in the axils of the leaves, and they begin to eat the bulb from the inside. The drugs Aktara, Zemlin, and Mukhoed help well against narcissus fly larvae.

Although hippeastrum requires some attention when growing, its magnificent flowering fully justifies all the time and effort spent on it.

- an indoor plant distinguished by an interesting large flower, similar to a trumpet lily. It is a bulbous flower, and it blooms no more than 1-2 times a year, and then under good conditions.

But in order for the pet to develop normally, bloom beautifully and grow in volume, it is recommended to arrange full periods of rest, as well as provide appropriate care for the indoor plant. Therefore, you should understand the intricacies of growing this shrub.

Hippeastrum comes from the Amaryllis family. In living nature, the number of different plant species exceeds more than 90 types. The exotic name of the pet is translated from ancient Greek as “horseman” and “star”.

The flower is often identified with amaryllis. But the whole difference between the representatives of the family is that the beautiful amaryllis, first of all, is the only specimen in its genus, and its homeland is the southern side of Africa. While Hippeastrum has a large number of different species, as well as its location is recorded in the tropical and subtropical forests of America.

The following features of the exotic are distinguished:

  • The most beautiful exotic flowers are located on a high massive arrow. Because of its bright color and durability, the plant is called royal.
  • Hippeastrum is a bulbous plant, so it can live for decades.
  • The foliage of a green pet begins to grow only at the moment when the arrow extends and the inflorescences bloom.
  • The external structure of the plant is such that they have the appearance of a tongue and have an original rich dark green color. The upper side of the plant is glossy, but has a fairly dense structure.
  • The leaf plate can extend up to 50 cm in length.
  • The inflorescences of Hippeastrum are large, large, reaching 25 cm in diameter. Externally they are distinguished by the shape of a funnel.
  • When flowering, they do not release aroma into the air.
  • If the exotic has grown, then from one large bulb you get 2 powerful arrows, 3-4 flowers on each.

Flowers can vary in color from red and pink to white. Some species have interesting color schemes - one flower is a bright red hue, the other is a calmer pink. Other inflorescences are distinguished by a striped tone. Flowering in most cases occurs either in spring or in the spring.

The formation of buds begins in early February. The flowering period continues until mid-March or even until the end of March. But if the plant is kept in comfortable conditions, its inflorescences can survive until the end of May.

It is recommended to count the flowering period annually. 3 months before the expected date, the flower is transferred from the room in which it was located during the dormant period to warmer conditions. During the growing season, exotic plants require a large amount of sunlight, so they should be placed on south-eastern or south-western window sills.

Watering should be done as needed.

If the room is dry enough, then irrigation should be carried out frequently; if it is cool, then excessive watering is contraindicated. It is important to add nutritious moisture at the moment when the flower arrow develops and the leaf plates stretch.

In order for the inflorescence to bloom actively and beautifully, before planting in a new flowerpot, the tuber should be kept for 3 hours in hot water at a temperature of 40 C. Thus, before flowering, you should not make any special efforts. Be sure to introduce constant watering and provide the plant with favorable conditions for normal growth and development.

Young hippeastrums require annual planting. The event is carried out either before the start of flowering, in February-March, or after the flower has completely faded and is preparing to go into a dormant period. This moment comes at the end of November. For plants older than 5 years of age, this procedure can be carried out once every 2 years.

How to properly replant a flower:

  • It is recommended to start transplanting by preparing the container. To do this, you should take a pot that is 10 cm larger than the volume of the bulb. If the pot is much smaller, the plant will not be able to grow normally and produce the desired arrow.
  • Soil can be purchased in specialized stores. A regular soil substrate for indoor plants will do. The advantages of such soil are that a sufficient amount of mineral additives and nutrients are added to the ground in advance. But before planting, the acidity of the soil should be determined. In highly acidic soil, hippeastrum will not bloom and may even die.
  • You can also prepare the soil substrate yourself. To do this, combine turf soil, broken dry peat, river sand and humus. All components are taken in equal parts.
  • The soil you prepare yourself should first be calcined in the oven, and also spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will neutralize all pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms that populate this soil.
  • Drainage is placed at the bottom of the prepared flowerpot. For which you can use sea pebbles, broken bricks, expanded clay or medium-sized crushed stone. The container is filled to the middle with soil mixture. A tuber is placed on top. It should be covered with soil so that the soil covers 2/3 of it. The remaining part should look out onto the street. With this appearance it is easier to control the condition of the flower.

After planting, the plant is watered, which should be applied in moderation so that the nutrient moisture does not stagnate in the soil. Otherwise, you can provoke a fungal disease of the tuber.

A distinctive feature of the hippeastrum is its clear delineation of life phases. It has moments of growth, flowering and rest. The dormant period occurs at the moment when the plant does not send out arrows and is not preparing for flowering. The onset of the moment of going to rest can be regulated, due to the fact that this moment depends on the forcing of a flower of a late or early nature.

The most optimal rest time for a bulbous plant is the first days of November until the end of January.

At this moment, it is time for internal restoration after flowering. All life processes slow down, the plant rests. This condition can last from 1 to 3 months. At this moment, it is recommended to recreate optimal conditions for a comfortable stay. Only in a favorable climate is further optimal development of the hippeastrum possible.

The exotic must be placed in a warm, darkened room where optimal humidity will be maintained. In this case, the temperature in the room should not exceed +13..+15 C. During the dormant period, the plant should also be looked after. The following rules for caring for hippeastrum during the dormant period are distinguished:

  1. Place in a dark place.
  2. Dig it up.
  3. Carefully place the tubers in a wooden box.
  4. Make sure that the plant is not exposed to freezing.

After keeping the plant in this state for 1-3 months, the plant should be returned to its normal state. It is transferred to a warm room, to a sunny place. Within 1.5-2 weeks a young leaf will appear. Only after the appearance of a tender leaf blade is it recommended to resume standard care. It is definitely recommended to place the pot in a sunny place so that the leaf plates do not stretch.

The shrub needs a period of rest in order to renew its own strength and absorb new nutrients from the soil. After this period, the plant is again ready to delight with riotous flowering. Thus, by maintaining exotic plants in certain conditions, in the spring you can get a gorgeous bush with flowering dense funnels of a bright shade. The main thing is to completely recreate the optimal conditions for the bush to rest.

After the bush has flowered, it is recommended to carry out a number of necessary actions. First of all, it is necessary to give the plant the opportunity to gain strength for further growth. After all, only appropriate care will allow you to re-release a powerful arrow with peduncles in the future.

After all the buds have withered, the arrow is cut off, but not completely at the root.

It is necessary to leave about 15 cm of the base of the arrow above the bulb. Due to the remaining stem, the exotic draws into the tuber all the useful substances concentrated in the stem. It is necessary to remove the arrow only after the tuber has completely taken all the nutrients from it and it has dried out. Only after this is the arrow carefully unscrewed from the base, so as not to damage the main plant.

After flowering, the plant's foliage may continue to grow. She produces this slowly - 1 sheet per month. To prevent the plant from drying out, it must be watered moderately periodically. In addition, before the plant retires, liquid fertilizers should be applied. Fertilizers must contain potassium and phosphorus. For good growth, the bulb should be fertilized at least 2 times a month.

The fact that the plant is preparing for a period of dormancy will be indicated by the acquisition of yellow foliage. During this period, it is very important to properly prepare the exotic for retirement:

  • Yellowed leaf blades are cut off.
  • The introduction of nutrient fluid is gradually stopped. Watering is carried out once every 21 days.
  • The pot with the tuber is placed in a cool place with dim light.
  • To prevent the tuber from producing young leaves, it is recommended to pull it out of the ground, placing it in a dry room, or wrap it in paper and place it in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.

Correctly carried out care after flowering and before preparing for dormancy will allow the plant not only to be saturated with useful substances, but also to thoroughly prepare for the next growing season.

When growing hippeastrum, every gardener strives to ensure that the plant not only produces new foliage, but also blooms beautifully. A long absence of flowering may be the result of improper care of the shrub.

The following reasons and their solutions are identified due to which exotic plants stop blooming:

  1. Transplanting a young plant - if propagation is carried out using tubers, then a one-year-old tuber will not shoot. The first release of buds is possible if the tuber is more than 7 cm and the plant is older than 2 years.
  2. Lack of feeding - after flowering it is definitely recommended to feed. A long-term lack of nutrients leads to suppression of the bush and lack of budding.
  3. Depleted soil - if the shrub is not transplanted from its native place for a long time, it completely sucks out from the soil all the nutrients necessary for growth. It is recommended to replant once every 1-2 years.
  4. Insufficient light - the plant is placed on northern windowsills. Be sure to move the pot to the south side, where the bush will have enough sunlight.
  5. The rest regime is violated - incorrect preparation of the exot for retirement and failure to comply with the proper conditions during this period.

Thanks to proper care, the hippeastrum will strengthen and grow in width. Every year he will be able to give birth to more children and release a significantly larger number of arrows. The main thing is to properly care for the shrub not only during the flowering period, but also before budding and after flowering.

Thus, hippeastrum is an unpretentious flower that does not require additional care. The most important points in its maintenance are infrequent moderate watering and control over the condition of the plant. In addition, to saturate the exotic with nutrients, replanting and fertilizing should be carried out.

More information can be found in the video:

Hippeastrum is a genus of perennial bulbous plants belonging to the Amaryllidaceae family, which has about 90 species. They grow in the tropics and subtropics of the Amazon River basin. In Europe, they became acquainted with the flower in the 18th century. Since that time, hippeastrum has been cultivated as a houseplant, which has gained popularity with its bright, spectacular flowering, the presence and decorativeness of which directly depend on compliance with the conditions of keeping the flower and proper care for it.

    Show all

    Description

    Spectacular and fairly easy to grow hippeastrums have long been of interest to breeders. Varieties differ in the size and color of the corolla. Based on these characteristics, they are divided into 9 groups, among which there are simple and double, large-, medium- and small-flowered.

    At home, hybrid hippeastrum is most often cultivated. This is a fairly large plant with long (up to 70 cm) linear (4–5 cm wide) shiny leaves and shallow grooves along the entire length. Most representatives of the species have green ones. There are forms with a reddish (purple) tint of foliage, which makes the plant even more attractive. The leaves grow in pairs, in 2 rows.

    During flowering, the plant produces a tall (up to 60-80 cm) and powerful peduncle. It bears an umbrella inflorescence consisting of large (length 15 cm, width up to 25 cm) funnel-shaped buds. Corollas can be painted in a wide range of shades: from white, pink, orange to red and purple. Sometimes there are even yellow and greenish ones. The background shade can be supplemented with specks and strokes.

    Hippeastrum blooms once a year, in spring. The alternate opening of its buds ensures the duration (3-4 weeks) of this spectacular spectacle. At the end of flowering, fruits are formed - seed pods.

    Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis or considered to be two names for the same flower. These opinions are wrong. Hippeastrum and amaryllis are related, belonging to the same family and very similar in appearance, but belonging to different genera.

    Features of the growing season

    The life cycle of hippeastrum consists of 2 phases: a period of rest and active vegetation.

    Each phase of the cycle has a certain duration and its own characteristics.

    Streptocarpus - conditions of detention, reproduction, flower care

    Rest period

    The natural dormant period of the hippeastrum begins in September. Its approach is indicated by gradually drying leaves, fading flowers and an increasing size of the bulb. After the leaves dry, they are removed.


    The bulbs are stored in a cool (10-12 °C), dark and dry place directly in the pot. They must be covered with light-proof material. Storage of bulbs removed from the container is allowed. In this case, they are placed in boxes or bags made of dense material.

    Ideally, the hippeastrum rests for 8 to 10 weeks. The presence of a dormant period and its duration is a decisive factor determining the decorative flowering of a plant. An insufficiently rested hippeastrum will form small buds or refuse to bloom at all.

    Stages of vegetation

    The active growing season of the flower begins at the end of January, beginning of February. It consists of several sequential stages.

    A feature of hippeastrum and one of its differences from amaryllis is that the life cycle of the flower can be corrected. For example, you can stimulate the beginning of flowering for a certain month or send it to rest.

    Growing conditions

    Hippeastrum grows in any room, but it looks different.

    For good development and flowering, the plant needs to create certain conditions that are not the same throughout its growing season.

    Lighting

    During the dormant period, the flower does not need light. Its bulbs are stored in the dark. Then they are gradually accustomed to light: in the first days they are placed away from its source, in the back of the room.

    With the appearance of leaves, hippeastrum is placed on window sills. During active growth and emergence of the peduncle, the plant needs good lighting, excluding direct sunlight.

    Light is also necessary after flowering for the ripening of the bulb and seeds. To avoid deformation of the leaves and peduncle, the pot with the plant is periodically rotated around its axis.

    Air temperature and humidity

    The optimal temperature for storing hippeastrum bulbs is 10... 12 ° C. During the transition period between dormancy and growing season, the plant needs warmth: 23... 25 ° C. During flowering it is cool: 16...20 degrees Celsius. At higher temperatures, the flowering time will be noticeably shortened.

    For a vegetative flower, not only the temperature regime is important, but also the presence of fresh and humid air in the room. Therefore, in the warm season, it is often taken out into the open air, protected from direct sunlight and waterlogging.

    Care measures

    Caring for a plant in different phases of its growing season is not the same.

    During the dormant period, with the correct placement of the bulbs, the flower requires almost no attention. It is enough to carry out an inspection once a month. During this, the soil is slightly moistened, avoiding water getting on the bulb.

    Caring for a vegetating plant consists of carrying out the usual activities for gardeners (watering, fertilizing and replanting). A sharp change in conditions and their prolonged violation provoke a refusal to flower.

    Watering

    The hippeastrum is watered with settled water at room temperature, adjusting the frequency and abundance of moisture at different stages:

    • During the transition period between rest and growing season, when the first leaves appear, water rarely and in small portions. The soil should be dry between waterings.
    • When the flower arrow appears (beginning of February), water more often. The soil should be slightly moist between moistenings.
    • During flowering, water regularly and abundantly.
    • After this, during the active growth of leaves, the frequency and abundance of watering is gradually reduced, reducing to 1-2 times a month by the beginning of September.

    The ideal option is to alternate watering from above and below, through a tray. The first is carried out carefully, along the edge of the pot, trying not to get on the bulb. This can cause it to rot. This alternation of moistening methods promotes uniform distribution of moisture throughout the earthen clod. This is important to prevent root rotting. For the same reason, hippeastrum tolerates insufficient moisture better than excess water.

    Top dressing

    Throughout the growing season, hippeastrum is fed once every 2 weeks with mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing is carried out after watering, which is important to prevent burns of the roots.

    Fertilizers are selected taking into account the growing season of the flower:

    • At the very beginning, when the first leaves appear, fertilizing is carried out with liquid fertilizers for deciduous plants containing a large amount of nitrogen, as well as phosphorus and potassium. The ideal nutrient ratio is 7:3:6.
    • After the leaves grow, apply fertilizers of a similar composition, but with a lower nitrogen content: respectively 4:6:12.
    • During the emergence and growth of the peduncle to a height of 13-15 cm, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is supplemented by moistening the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. A week after this, any phosphorus fertilizer is applied.
    • In August (a month before the onset of the dormant period), fertilizing is carried out with fertilizers rich in potassium and containing nitrogen and phosphorus (12: 4: 4).

    Regular, timely and balanced application of fertilizers will ensure high quality flowering and leaf growth necessary for bulb formation.

    Transfer

    Hippeastrum is replanted every 3-4 years. The optimal time for this procedure is the end of the rest period. To replant, you will need a new pot and a substrate of a certain composition.

    Narrow plastic pots with a drainage compartment and holes for water drainage are suitable for hippeastrums. The diameter of the container is selected to match the onion. It is placed strictly in the middle. There should be 3-5 cm left from the sides of the bulb to the walls of the pot.

    A large number of babies are formed in a wide pot. This leads to its depletion, which results in a refusal to flower.

    Hippeastrum is picky about soil composition. The main indicators of its suitability for growing a flower are:

    • high air and water permeability;
    • average acidity level (maximum pH limit = 6).

    Such a substrate can be prepared from 2 parts of clay-turf soil mixed with leaf soil, humus, peat and sand, taken in an amount of 1 part. To grow a flower, commercial soil for bulbous plants with the addition of a small amount of sand is suitable.

    Transplantation technique

    The plant is replanted using the transshipment method, which preserves the integrity of the roots and facilitates the rapid adaptation of the bulb to the new pot. Before the procedure, the flower is watered.

    The roots are carefully examined. If there is damage, dark spots or rot, the bulb is freed from the soil and treated:

    • cut off all damaged areas;
    • lubricate the cut areas with brilliant green;
    • incubate for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim).

    Drainage is placed at the bottom of the container. 1/3 of the substrate is poured on top of it and an earthen ball is placed on it. The voids are filled with the remaining soil. Deepen by 2/3.

    In case of transplanting a damaged and treated bulb into a substrate, sphagnum moss is used instead of humus. The soil is poured over the drainage. The bulb is buried no more than 1/4. With such a planting, it is more convenient to control its condition. Subsequently, making sure that everything is in order with it, the soil is filled up to the usual level.


    After planting, place the container with the bulb in a warm, shaded place and do not water it until the first leaves appear.

    After separation, they are planted for growing in individual or common containers, buried 2/3, and left in the light.


    Caring for them consists of regularly moistening the soil with small portions of warm water. The bulbs do not rest until the first flowering; you should not artificially force them to do this.

    Pests and diseases

    The succulent leaves of hippeastrum attract sucking insects. Most often these are aphids, mealybugs and spider mites.

    Pest control is as follows:

    • Aphids are destroyed with Actellik.
    • Spider mites are washed off with warm water.
    • If the plant is severely infested with mealybug, the plant cannot be saved. Single clusters of insects are removed manually using a solution of karbofos (20 to 40 drops per 1 liter of water) or soap.

    Hippeastrums rarely get sick. Among the possible diseases, the most common are anthracnose (treated with the drug “Fundazol”, treating once every 2 weeks) and viral mosaic (incurable, the affected plant is destroyed).

    Secrets of flowering

    It happens that hippeastrum refuses to bloom. The reason for this is most often a weakening of the bulb caused by:

    • absence or very short period of rest;
    • soil depletion resulting from the absence of fertilizing and replanting;
    • the formation of a large number of children on the bulb;
    • gross and prolonged violation of the conditions of keeping the flower;
    • pest damage.

    Some secrets will help induce flowering:

    1. 1. Before planting, soak the bulb in warm (43–45 ºC) water for 3 hours. The peduncle will appear after 3 weeks.
    2. 2. In August, stop watering the flower and place it in a dry and dark place until the end of January. Resumption of watering stimulates the appearance of flowering after 1.5 months.
    3. 3. By cutting off the leaves in July and not moistening the plant until the end of the month, you can cause flowering at the end of August, if you fertilize with liquid complex fertilizer with the first watering.

    A little attention and work, and the hippeastrum will surprise you with the beauty of its flowering.

What else to read