The foundation under the stove in the house was lopsided. How to raise a house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private home, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.

Therefore, the search query about how to build a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and others include several functions in their “set of capabilities”. Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large room, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

Many different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be very miniature and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the stove?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think through this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally bump into them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.

• To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outside wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure may have different decorative finishes, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor in the passage area
• When choosing an installation location, you must also ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.

Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
• A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• A scriber is a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• A construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
• Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
• (trowels) of different sizes are used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
• Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is done “for jointing”, without further cladding.
• Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• A sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
• Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic film or roofing felt.

• Then, a sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and compacted well using a hand tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step is to install a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick into the formwork, to its entire height. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
• Next, into the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.

• To begin laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the stove base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.

After these preparatory works, you can proceed to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, when starting to lay a previously unfamiliar structure, first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.

As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to reposition part or even the entire structure of the stove, since backdraft may form and smoke will flow into the room during kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the required order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.

Processing seams for jointing

If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inside of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.

Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.

These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.

The dimensions of this heating structure, excluding the height of the chimney, are 750x630x2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.

To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.

In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.

This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. A row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels are laid, which will run vertically. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks.
	After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the firebox door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined.
	When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is intended for laying the hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, the brickwork is covered with a metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks.
	On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If a decision is made to make

Houses built from wood are very popular. However, after several decades of operation, these structures have to undergo major repairs. It consists of replacing the lower rows of rotten logs or raising and strengthening the foundation. In order to carry out such repairs, the building must be raised.

What structures can be lifted

For major repairs, only one-story buildings of the following types are raised: made of wooden beams; from rounded and other logs; panel wooden houses.

Facilities from timber or hardwood For example, larch and oak last quite a long time. There are still pre-revolutionary houses that are over 100 years old and have retained their almost original appearance.

Modern wooden buildings are not so durable. The reason for this is the quality of the timber, which became especially susceptible to various diseases after the beginning of the “atomic era” and the ongoing testing of nuclear bombs.

In this regard, timber structures are required every 15 - 20 years scrutinize to identify signs of rot and the appearance of fungus, the lower crowns of wooden houses are especially often affected by this.

Signs of Problems

There are several such signs and they can be seen almost with the naked eye. Namely: partial or complete violation of the foundation of the house; deepening the foundation into the ground; subsidence of the building in one of the corners; large distortion of windows and doors, as well as the tilt of the building.

After inspection and identification of many additional works, a decision is made to raise the house. Simultaneously create a plan, through which they purchase the necessary building materials and tools. In addition, the following activities are planned for major repairs:

• replacement of rotten building crowns;
• preventing further subsidence;
• alignment of the distortion of the entire box around the perimeter;
• treating wood with chemicals to prevent rotting;
• complete or partial replacement of the foundation.

Such great work carried out within 1 - 2 weeks, involve the entire family and several invited specialists.

Preparing to lift the building

Before lifting the house, it is necessary to carry out actions to ensure ease of lifting and further repairs. This is done to protect against sudden and unexpected destruction of the structure. The following must be done:

In many houses, the floor is built on joists that have their own columnar foundation. The walls of this building are connected to the floor only by baseboards, which will also have to be removed. In addition, the upper crowns on which the rafters are attached need to be well connected with reliable blocks 50 mm thick or bars so that the roof does not move apart. You also need to separate the veranda attached to the wall.

When everything is ready, select suitable jacks for wooden houses. For ordinary standard buildings with a total area of ​​60 to 100 sq. meters, hydraulic jacks with a lifting capacity of 5 - 10 tons are quite suitable. You need at least 2 of them. Drivers of heavy-duty trucks always have such lifts.

Cooking wooden pallets with a thickness of at least 50 -- 80 mm, on which jacks for lifting and steel plates under the heads of these devices will be installed. There should be a small depression in the center to prevent the jack from slipping.

Instructions for raising a house

In practice, lifting a house is carried out quite rarely, but if it is already done, then all the work that is possible during this event is done. This includes the replacement of rotten lower logs, treatment with chemical compounds against fungus, and complete repair of the foundation. At the same time, the building frame is leveled.

Logs prepared to replace rotten ones must be dry, free from bark beetles and treated with special solutions that protect against moisture. The bricks for the foundation are well-burnt and red in color. They are suitable for corners, can withstand loads of several tons and are not afraid of dampness. It is also necessary to prepare cement and sand for the solution.

All actions to lift the structure are done slowly and clearly taking precautions. It is best to start such an event in the morning.

To raise a house with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions say the following:

1. Start from the most sagging corner. At a distance of about a meter from it, they dig a hole in the ground to install a jack with flooring. The soil should be firm and dry.
2. The lift is brought under the lower log, and if it is intact and strong, a prepared steel plate is placed under the head of the device. If the log is rotten, then cut a recess for the jack pin to a stronger surface.
3. Proceed directly to raising the angle. They do it carefully. The lifting height should not exceed 5 - 6 cm at a time. At the same time, prepared supports and stands are wedged in to lighten the load on the lift.
4. The structure is carefully inspected to identify unforeseen complications.
5. If there are two jacks, the second corner is prepared for lifting. They also dig a hole for a pallet on which to place the next lift. They bring it under the log, place a plate on the head and lift the house. Place prepared bars and dies under the lower crown.
6. Place the jack in the middle of the log. They do the same operations. Raise it a little, about 2 - 3 cm. Be sure to add stops.
7. Return to the first corner. Raise it, trying to level the frame, but no more than 6 - 7 cm. Be sure to insert supports from chocks or blocks. They try to make sure that the entire side is supported.
8. They inspect the building again.
9. Jacks are removed from the reinforced and raised corners and the other side is prepared for lifting. Perform similar actions.
10. Return to the first two corners and lift the house until the entire box is completely level. This is checked with a water level.
11. The building must be raised clockwise or counterclockwise until the entire structure is level.
12. Under the walls, reliable supports are placed under the lower crown along the entire perimeter of the building.

After the house is raised, it strengthened on all sides with supports. Then the repair work necessary for this object is carried out.

Unlike a large house, a bathhouse can be raised faster. This takes 1-2 days. In some cases, it can be raised within a few hours. The speed of work depends on experience. If you have no experience in how to lift a bathhouse using jacks, a video that can be easily found on the Internet can help with this.

If there are problems with the foundation, there are two options - build a new house or try to restore and replace it. In the second case, it is necessary to raise the house and then carry out work on the foundation. The technology is available for buildings of any type, even for high-rise buildings, but you can only lift a wooden house yourself - it responds better to uneven loads.

If there are problems with the foundation, the solution is to raise the wooden house and replace or reconstruct the foundation

What kind of house can be raised

In principle, specialists lift houses of any type, including brick or block ones. But you can only handle wooden houses with your own hands - made of logs, timber. You can also lift panel wooden houses yourself. All of them, due to their design, can easily withstand uneven loads, so when lifting you can use one or two powerful jacks. They are usually rearranged around the perimeter - moving clockwise or counterclockwise, little by little raising the frame with its foundation. Due to the fact that wood is elastic and resilient, the slight distortion created during operation is compensated, preventing the building from crumbling or cracking. This, and the low weight of wooden structures, allows you to lift them with your own hands.

This is how a block or frame house is lifted - many hydraulic jacks controlled from one point

Brick or block houses will not withstand such an operation. They react very poorly to distortions and unevenly applied loads. Because this process is much more complex and expensive. Steel beams are placed under the building, creating a reinforcing belt below. Powerful pneumatic jacks are installed along the perimeter, which are controlled from one point (control panel or computer). They begin to rise at the same time. Only in this case is it possible to avoid the destruction of a brick, frame or block house.

When the need arises

Most often, it is necessary to raise a wooden house when problems arise with the foundation. Our towns and villages still have a lot of houses that were built 40-50 years ago. At that time, few people in private construction strictly adhered to building codes. They built it as best they could, from what they had. That’s why the foundations of those years are gradually being destroyed, and the houses are being distorted. So the need arises to raise a wooden house in order to replace or restore the foundation.

But it's not just old houses that have foundation problems. Newly built houses also have errors during construction:

• insufficient depth of the strip foundation, which causes the foundation to become covered with cracks during heaving;
• insufficient waterproofing, which leads to dampness in the house;
• the base is low, and because of this it is cold in the house and it is impossible to insulate it, since the very low subfloor does not make it possible to carry out any work.

There are many more mistakes, but these are the most common. In all cases, repairs, upgrades or replacement of the foundation are required, which means that the house must be raised.

The second common reason why it is necessary to raise a wooden house is that the first crowns of the log house have rotted. The result is the same: the house settles, and the further it goes, the more. The rot continues to spread. Therefore, the frame is raised, after which the old rotten crowns are removed, replacing them with new ones. There is no other way to repair the log house.

And the third reason is the need to move the building. This situation does not occur so often, but it also happens. Sometimes an unsuccessful site is chosen for the construction of a building, then they put a new foundation in another place and drag the house. But first you need to lift it, then install rollers - special ones with rollers or cutting pipes - and then transport it somewhere. Sometimes the decision is made to move a house due to problems with the foundation. But at the same time, there is no desire to live in a house that stands on “chicken legs” all the time of renovation.

What is needed to raise a wooden house

The technology is simple, so you can do this work yourself, but you need to be extremely careful. So, what tools will you need:

In general, this is all that is required to raise a wooden house.

Sequence of actions

First, it is worth assessing the condition of the building and especially the lower crowns. If the outside of the log house is lined with clapboard, it is removed and an awl is stuck into the beam or log. If it goes in easily, then the wood is damaged and will need to be replaced. This means you buy a beam of a suitable cross-section (even if the frame is made of logs), tape for compaction, and antibacterial impregnation for wood in contact with the ground. You process the timber and lay it out to dry.

If there is a brick stove in the house, you need to dismantle the floor around it a little, making room for the passage of the chimney through the ceiling and roof. If you also need to cut off the supply and return pipelines, then they will need to be slightly altered and welded again. You will also need to disconnect all communications if they come from the underground - water supply, sewerage, etc.

If the house has extensions under a common roof or connected to the walls of the house, the matter is more complicated. It is necessary to vacate the house (the best option) or fix the extension to the main house and lift everything together. The second option is more complex; it is implemented if at least one wall has a rigid connection with the main house - for example, it is integral with the wall of the house. But even in this case, you cannot do without prior consultation with a specialist. It is much easier to lift a house if nothing is pulling it and does not interfere with the lifting. Later the extension can be raised separately. This is an option if it is made unconnected or the connections are only staples or other similar ties.

Immediately before work, you will still need to open the windows and open the doors. This will prevent them from being damaged by distortions.

How many jacks to install and where to place them

If the house is built on a strip foundation and the strip is equal in width or larger than the size of the log house, you will have to cut openings in the strip for installing jacks. Otherwise you won't be able to install them.

It will be easier if the building stands on a pile or columnar foundation. These are usually light structures such as a bathhouse, a small country house or garden house. In this case, the soil in the places where the jack is installed is leveled, compacted, and a rigid, level base is placed on it. This is a piece of a wide board or a sheet of thick metal. It is important to provide good, reliable support - when lifting a wooden house in this case, the load is transferred to the ground pointwise, in the places where the jacks are installed. And the load at these points is very large. To prevent the jack from “moving” during operation, a reliable base is required.

If the house stands on a strip foundation, first of all, use a sledgehammer to break out openings in the foundation for installing jacks. They are made along the perimeter, approximately 2-2.5 meters apart, but at least half a meter away from the corner. A platform at the cutting site is required - a wall. Make the opening so that the jack stands freely and the platform is level. Also, along the perimeter of the house, the studs with which the frame was attached to the foundation are cut. Next, after clearing the openings of construction debris, install the jack. It is advisable to lay a metal sheet under it. It will distribute the load more evenly and will not allow the material to crumble under the emphasis.

A little about the number of jacks and their load capacity. You can have at least one. But then the work will be lengthy - it will have to be rearranged in each of the holes, raised to the selected level, and then moved on. This is exactly what they usually do when lifting a house on their own. But there can also be two or three jacks - they can be installed in adjacent openings and raised all to the same height. The work will go faster, but the risk of distortion increases. Those who professionally lift houses usually have enough jacks to install them on two opposite sides and lift a wooden (log or panel) house at the same time.

The lifting capacity of jacks depends on the size of the house and their number. Usually they take 8 or 10 tons. These are ordinary lifts for trucks, there are a lot of them on the market, and they cost relatively little.

One more point: it is advisable to additionally secure several lower crowns of the log house by driving in large metal brackets. It is also worth recording the extension, places of cuts and other problem points. This will prevent the house from falling apart during work. The same “clips” are installed in the replaced areas.

The process itself

Use a jack to lift the frame slightly. Only 2-3 cm at a time. No more. Previously cut linings (pieces of boards) are placed into the gap formed between the log house and the entire part of the foundation. When laying supports, they try to give them the shape of a truncated pyramid - boards of greater length are placed downwards, and shorter ones are placed above. This design is more stable than bars of the same length stacked on top of each other.

If the house has walls (cuts), it is also advisable to prop them up. As you rise, pads must also be laid in these places, not only at the point where they intersect with the main walls, but also in a couple of places along the length (under the house). If at first it is impossible to do this due to the low height of the subfloor, they do it later, when the height has already been gained at least a little. Due to their elasticity, they will hold up for some time, but then it is advisable to give them support.

After installing the shims, the jack is lowered, removed, go to the next opening, raised again, lay the shims, and so on. During the work process, several thin pads made of boards are replaced with more massive ones made of timber - the smaller their number, the less likely it is that they will slip out or fall apart.

The direction of movement - clockwise or counterclockwise - does not matter. It is important to go around all the points sequentially. The amount of lift is the same everywhere. You can orient yourself relative to the entire part of the foundation - measure the distance to the lower crown. After each lift, the house is inspected. It should not crack or have a visible slope.

Having completed one circle, they move on to the second, then the third, and so on until the required height is reached. Usually they lift it by themselves by 30-35 cm, but professionals can do it by 80 cm. Next, the required work is carried out - the foundation and/or frame is repaired or replaced.

What's next

If after the lifting the foundation is dismantled, the house is moved to new supports and hung up. To do this, take a large cross-section of timber (usually a pair), bring it under the frame, and secure it on both sides. Two such stops are installed at each corner - on both sides. Total - at least eight. If the wall is long, install the same support in the middle.

The support beam can be laid on folded brick or concrete pillars. It is better not to use an earthen support for this - it may “float”. After all the supports are installed, you can dismantle the old foundation and carry out further work.

This is classic technology. But, as you understand, it is not very reliable - these stops can fall, settle, etc. Repairing or replacing a foundation is a long-term undertaking, and anything can happen. A more reliable way is to weld supporting pedestals from a thick-walled metal corner or small I-beam.

What else are good about cubes? They do not interfere with the reinforcement of the foundation. You pass reinforcement through them, then pour everything into concrete. You are studying a monolith with super-reinforcement. A very good option: it is reliable from a safety point of view, does not interfere with work (less interference for sure), and increases the reliability of the foundation.

The difference between lifting a small wooden house

If the house is small, without overcuts, with light walls and without extensions (or disassembled), you can raise the wooden house by installing two ten-ton jacks in opposite corners. Raise them alternately to a small height, after each rise, placing pads around the perimeter wherever possible. These gaskets must be of different thicknesses so that even a centimeter gap can be filled.

With this technique, it is especially worth paying attention to the corners where the jacks are not installed. Their emphasis must be reliable.

How to raise a house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The use of wood for the manufacture of cottages and country houses is popular. Many people prefer logs, panel structures and beams, which are environmentally friendly and, subject to special processing and proper installation, ensure the durability of the building. During the operation of houses made of wood, it becomes necessary to restore the foundation or replace the supporting crown. The light weight of wooden buildings allows the house to be lifted using powerful jacks.

Knowing how to raise a house with your own hands, you can move a one-story building vertically and temporarily fix it with concrete blocks or metal supports. At the same time, it is important to prevent collapse, maintain the integrity of the finish, and not disturb the geometry of window and door openings.

Before you start lifting the house, you need to do a number of preparatory work

When making a responsible decision to jack up a house without hiring hired workers, you should perform a set of works, prepare the tools and materials necessary for lifting, and also carefully study the technology. Particular attention should be paid to observing safety precautions. Let us consider this complex of issues in detail.

What kind of houses can be jacked up?

Modern technical means and proven technology make it possible to raise one-story wooden buildings made of the following materials:

• rounded logs;
• square beams;
• wooden shields.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to inspect the building, assess the degree of complexity and duration of the planned repairs, determine the method of lifting, and carry out work to protect the structure from destruction during movement.

If there are problems with the foundation, there are two options - build a new house or try to restore and replace it

The need for repairs by lifting a wooden building is indicated by visual signs:

• significant skew or tilt of the house;
• the appearance of a network of cracks on the interior and exterior finishes;
• local or complete subsidence;
• deepening part of the foundation into the ground;
• significant violation of the integrity of the foundation.

The vertical movement of the structure is carried out to carry out the following types of activities:

1. Performing partial or major repairs of the foundation.
2. Preventing subsidence of the structure.
3. Replacement of rotted support beams around the perimeter of the building.
4. Alignment of box distortions.
5. Carrying out protective treatment of wood.
6. Elimination of mistakes made by builders.

Most often it is necessary to raise a wooden house when problems arise with the foundation

In order to determine the method by which the house will be raised using special devices, the following factors are analyzed at the preliminary stage:

• mass of the building. Each jack must provide a 40% lifting capacity. To do this, the total weight of the structure is calculated by multiplying the cubic capacity of the box by the specific gravity of wood equal to 0.8 t/m3. The weight of the floor, roofing and finishing is added to the resulting number;
• dimensions of the building box. With a building length of more than six meters, there is a high probability of beams or logs subsiding in the splice zone. Additional installation of supporting elements at the joining areas will be required;
• presence of internal lining. Using plasterboard sheets or plaster to decorate walls indoors complicates the implementation of activities. Installing 50 mm thick boards on the outside of the corners will avoid repeated repairs inside the room;
• soil features. Depending on the structure of the soil on which the lower plane of the lifting device will rest, it may be necessary to use concrete blocks or special panels of increased area. This will prevent the jack from sinking;
• travel height. The length of the working stroke of the rod is limited by the design of the lifting device. The use of special pads made of durable square-section timber with a side size of 100–150 mm will allow you to gradually achieve the required moving height;
• duration of repair activities. The duration of the repair is determined by the degree of complexity; if it is carried out for a long time, it is undesirable to rest the structure on the rod. It is advisable to use temporary structures made of metal and wood that have sufficient supporting area.

Sometimes a bad site is chosen to build a building, then they put a new foundation in another place and drag the house

Raising the house to the height required for repairs can be carried out using the following equipment:

1. By crane. It is used mainly for the purpose of lifting to move buildings to another site.
2. Powerful jacks. A widespread method of moving wooden buildings in a vertical plane.

When planning to raise a house on jacks, you should prepare:

• cut off the power supply;
• turn off the gas supply;
• shut off water mains;
• turn off the sewer system;
• ensure free movement of a stove installed on an independent foundation through the roof of the chimney;
• disconnect the individually mounted boiler from the heating pipes;
• dismantle the floor in the area of ​​the stove and heating boiler;
• secure the immobility of the box with steel plates screwed to the corners.

Use a jack to lift the frame slightly. Only 2-3 cm at a time

Currently, residential buildings are built from a wide variety of materials. Each of them has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Most often, small country houses are built on stilts. Moreover, in some cases, in order to repair a house, as well as replace some of its components, it is necessary to raise the structure. For these purposes, you can use the most ordinary jack.

A pertinent question is: how to lift a house with a jack? Often wooden houses are a log house, which is made from a wide variety of wood species. Raising a log house with a jack is not that difficult.

The most important thing is to follow the instructions below, which will tell you in detail about this process.

The process of raising a house

Scheme of raising a house using two jacks: 1 – a rail with a mark of the lifting height; 2 – foundation (jacks are not indicated).

Let's say a person has a log house, or a wooden house, which needs to be raised to a certain height. It is ideal to use a jack in this situation. By the way, using this method you can raise not only a wooden house, but also one made of any other material. The technology will be practically no different for other types of buildings.

It is worth remembering that in order to raise the log house to the required height, it is necessary to use only cargo jacks that can withstand a sufficiently large weight. They are easy to use. In addition, such equipment is quite capable of supporting a house of almost any weight.

Don’t forget that the house needs to be raised at the corners of one side.

The use of four jacks is unacceptable, since in this case the house may shift along any axis. The process itself has some nuances that must be taken into account when raising a log house.

Raise only two jacks at a time, which are located on opposite sides of the house.

These include:

• You will first have to hammer in two slats in each corner of the building. Then it is necessary to note the exact height to which the log house will rise. Next, you definitely need to prepare a place for the jacks; it is best to use a rigid support that is installed on the ground;
• Only after this can you slowly begin to raise the house. In this case, this must be done simultaneously and evenly on both sides. Only after the log house has been lifted on one side can we proceed to work related to lifting on the other side. This is how the house is raised to the required height.

Often the process of raising a house is necessary if we are talking about a pile or columnar foundation. Piles have one very unpleasant property: they break very often. They just need to be replaced from time to time.

In this regard, it is necessary to raise the house to a certain height. The easiest way in this case is to use jacks. Raising the foundation is often necessary when repairing it using screw piles. It's worth talking about this process in more detail.

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Foundation repair using screw piles

The piles are connected to each other by channels and form a kind of lattice. Afterwards the house can be lowered onto the resulting grid.

It is this method of maintaining the foundation in normal condition that has gained the highest popularity. This is not strange, because it is quite simple and not expensive. At the same time, its efficiency is at its best.

During construction, some people forget that the foundation is the most important part of the house. As a result, during operation, various cracks, chips, and so on appear on it. This is a sure sign that the foundation needs repairs.

It is in this case that you will need to raise the foundation using jacks. In recent years, some residents of our country have begun to prefer a foundation on screw piles to an ordinary one. This is due to its many advantages over ordinary concrete.

The technology for replacing the foundation with screw piles is quite simple. Moreover, it will seem simple to those people who are reading this article, because it has already described how it is necessary to raise a house with the help of jacks. In this case, this process is the main one. So, the installation technology is as follows:

• Based on the characteristics of the soil on which the piles will be installed, their exact number is calculated. This is a very important matter, because the integrity of the future structure will directly depend on it;
• it's worth raising the house. This is done according to the principle described above. Then you need to mark the perimeter on the territory of which all the piles will be located. It is very important to calculate the location of each of them. Piles should be installed at the corners of the building, as well as along the perimeter of load-bearing walls;
• Next you need to start screwing in all the piles in turn. This can be done manually, but you can use special equipment;
• All piles are connected to each other by channels. They should form some kind of lattice. This will increase the rigidity of the structure;
• only after this the house can be lowered onto the resulting lattice.

Now we can state the fact that the renovation of the foundation has been completed and it will delight its owners for many years.

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1. If the house is raised using jacks, insurance must be provided.
2. If the clearance increases by 15 cm when lifting, then a special duralumin gasket is placed under it.
3. In the place where you plan to install jacks, it is necessary to check the quality of the wood. It must be at its best. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the building will not hold up. This can lead to harmful consequences.
4. Sometimes you have to use narrow jacks. In this case, an additional bracket must be installed at the installation site. It will increase the installation area. This will ensure that the house does not move under its own weight, and the jack will remain in place during all the work.
5. If the house has a brick stove, then when lifting it, you must pay attention to the junction of the pipe and the roof.

Sometimes a situation arises when a house needs to be lifted without fail, but the necessary jacks are simply not at hand. This is where you should think about purchasing them. Although it is currently difficult to obtain sufficiently powerful options, you can always find a way out of the situation.

For example, many turn to the nearest depot. There are probably jacks in stock there. Many employees of such enterprises will gladly accommodate the homeowner.