Figures of products by a milling cutter on a tree. Proper milling with a manual wood router

Those who love carpentry, that is, woodwork, must definitely know how to handle a hand router. With the help of such a device, you can create real masterpieces without any effort at all. However, this will require skills in work and knowledge of what this tool consists of, how to assemble and disassemble it. With the help of a manual wood router, you can create a beautiful door, decorative furniture or other original items. You can even open your own business, making a variety of wood products.

Types of milling work

The milling cutter is a unique device that performs a large number of rotations per second, while creating holes of the required diameter and shape. Work in progress divided into several categories. The holes that are created by the router are almost always part of a detachable or one-piece design that decorates the product.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the work carried out with the help of a milling cutter.

• Profiling of such products as cornices, platbands, plinths, glazing beads, etc., is carried out with an edge. Such works are suitable for furniture manufacturers. This is a wonderful solution for decorating wood products.
• Decorating the edges of complex products with a router helps to create an exclusive product. A professional can even create a masterpiece. For beginners, the video will help in this case. Such a process is necessarily carried out using templates. They contribute to the creation of identical patterns over large areas.
• With the help of a wood router, simple everyday problems are solved. For example, it is necessary to make recesses for locks or under awnings. For this, a special milling cutter is used, however, for homework, you can also use a hand tool.

All woodwork is done with special cutters. They are chosen, focusing on the type of work that will need to be carried out, and the type of wood that is milled. On the Internet you can find a large number of videos that explain in detail and clearly show what the cutter looks like and how to choose the right one.

The milling cutter is a component of the milling cutter and is shank and working element with cutting edge. They are distinguished by:

• the shape of the cutting edge;
• the type of material from which they are made;
• size;
• designs.

Thus, for working on soft wood, light materials for the cutter are needed. And for the manufacture of an object from solid wood, preference is given to "hard" cutters.

Cutters are:

• conical;
• V-shaped;
• disk;
• cutters "swallow's nest";
• profile;
• rectangular groove;
• molding;
• folded;
• fillet.

In addition, cutters are divided into those that direct the movement, have bearings and those that do not. With the help of a manual milling cutter without bearings in the cutters, work is carried out anywhere in the workpiece.

Installing the cutter

Once the required template has been found, further woodwork should be carried out with a hand router. To do this, select set the correct cut. This is done in the following sequence:

How to do the job with a manual router

A large number of electrical appliances for construction and repair carry out their work by rotating the shaft. A hand mill makes a large number of revolutions per second. It is generally accepted that woodworking will be done cleaner by a milling cutter if there are as many revolutions as possible. In fact, this is an erroneous opinion. The object may char and break if the speed control is not set correctly and when working with a large diameter cutter.

That is why for each type of work and material it is necessary to select and set a certain number of revolutions per second. The work will be much cleaner if the ratio of the speed of the cutter to the wood being cut is correctly selected.

Work with a manual milling cutter is carried out by installing it on a special table or simply holding it in your hands. Small items are usually milling on a stationary table. This contributes to the performance of work without any defects. On such a table, the router is installed with the spindle up.

In order for milling on the table to be performed without errors, it is necessary:

• set the rulers on the surface of the table, under the shape that will need to be cut;
• narrow rulers with an oval end are necessary for working with parts of a variable profile and are attached to the surface of the table perpendicular to the workpiece.

It should be remembered that when working with a manual router, it must be moved in the opposite direction relative to the movement of the cutter. Otherwise, the tool often breaks out of the hands and causes injury.

Safety Compliance

Manual wood router required requires safety precautions so as not to cause harm to health:

Conclusion

It is not easy to learn how to make wood products with a hand router. Best to explore video tutorials with necessary instructions. Do not forget that this is a rather dangerous tool that can cause serious injury. That is why it is important to observe safety precautions, to be attentive and careful.

There are different types of manual routers, however, the most used and versatile can be called a manual plunge mill, which is described below. Plastic wood, perfect in its aesthetics, and a universal manual milling cutter. This combination allows you to get products of almost any shape - from the simplest in the form of straight planes, to the most complex, more suitable for works of art than for utilitarian things. Working with a manual wood router is an opportunity to fully enjoy creativity, creating original, exclusive products.

Types of work performed by the milling cutter

All operations that are carried out using a manual router can be divided into several categories.

Milling grooves, grooves, quarters and other recesses in the workpiece, which can be located both along and across the layers, be open (exit to the edge) or closed. With some exceptions, these forms perform certain structural functions - most often they form detachable and one-piece connections.

Edge milling- profiling. It is used for the production of molded profile products (cornices, skirting boards, platbands, glazing beads, etc.), as well as for interior design, furniture manufacturing and various kinds of handicrafts. These elements, in addition to being functional, also carry a decorative load.

Milling complex surfaces and contours in the creation of original furniture, exclusive interiors and the manufacture of products for various purposes, claiming to be artistic sophistication. At the same time, templates are widely used that allow copying repeating complex shapes with great accuracy, making them almost completely identical.

Milling special features carrying a purely functional load. These are grooves and holes for awnings and locks, spikes, etc. In serial production, these elements are made by specialized milling cutters (filler, etc.). But in everyday life, universal manual milling cutters quite successfully cope with them.

A manual router processes wood with the help of special milling cutters, consisting of a cylindrical shank (collets for shanks with a diameter of 6, 8 or 12 mm are more common) and a working part with a cutting edge. There is a huge number of cutters that differ in size and design, the shape of the cutting edge, material. For soft woods, cutters with knives made of high-speed tool steel are used, for hard materials (oak, ash, beech, aluminum, etc.) - from hard alloys.

To give the product a certain shape, it is necessary to ensure the exact positioning of the cutter relative to the workpiece in three coordinates. The position of the tool in a vertical position is ensured by the immersion mechanism, which moves the motor with the cutter along the vertical guides of the bed and stops it in the desired position in height.

Positioning in the horizontal plane can be achieved in various ways. With a guide bearing mounted on the cutter or a guide bushing attached to the bearing surface of the router, as well as a variety of special tools that come with routers and are purchased independently or made by yourself. There are a large number of manuals and recommendations describing how to work with a router using these devices, read one of them.

When using cutters with a guide bearing, the latter rolls along the edge of the workpiece or template located below or above the workpiece, thus providing a certain distance between the cutter and the workpiece. Milling cutters with a guide bearing and processing edges of parts are called edge cutters. They are used only for processing the edges of workpieces. There are different types of edge cutters.

Profile cutters(a and b) give the edge various curly profiles that carry a decorative load.

cone cutter(c) designed for bevelling at an angle of 45°.

Moulder cutter(d) used for rounding edges. It forms a profile in a quarter of a circle and comes in different sizes with a circle radius of 3-16 mm.

Disc cutter(e) cuts a horizontal groove of various depths and widths in the workpiece.

Rebated cutter(e) is used for milling quarters that perform a variety of functions.

Fillet cutter(g) is used to obtain fillets on the edge. It is used to give the edges a decorative effect.

Milling cutters without guide bearings, called slot cutters, are designed to machine the workpiece anywhere. Their use requires the use of devices (read about branded and home-made devices for a manual router), which ensure the positioning of the cutter in a horizontal plane.

Rectangular groove cutter(a) is perhaps the most used. It is used for milling grooves that ensure the connection of parts - both one-piece and detachable.

Fillet cutter(b) creates semicircular grooves or grooves in the workpiece, often performing decorative functions.

V cutter(c) forms a groove with walls at an angle of 45°. If you insert the cutter to a greater depth, you get a groove with vertical edges. With the help of a V-shaped cutter, letters and various decorations are cut out.

Cutter "dovetail"(d) is usually used in furniture production for open and hidden tenon joints.

Mounting the cutter in the collet of the router

The installation of the cutter can be carried out both in the engine, taken out of the bed, and located in it. It is carried out in the following sequence:

• The cutter is laid on its side.
• The spindle is fixed from rotation - depending on the design of the router, with a wrench or a locking button.
• Release (if it is screwed onto the collet) or screw on the clamping nut of the collet.
• The shank of the cutter is inserted into the collet until it stops or at least 20 mm.
• Using a wrench (if the spindle is fixed with a wrench, a second wrench is required), the clamping nut is tightened, the spindle is unlocked.

If there is no cutter in the collet, the clamping nut must not be tightened. This may damage the collet..

Working with a milling cutter involves performing various adjustment operations. One of the main ones is setting the depth of milling. It may vary slightly for milling cutters of different models, but its principle for all plunge cutters remains the same. The essence of the setting is that when the cutter reaches the required depth, the immersion limiter rests against the turret stepped stop and prevents further immersion of the cutter.

Milling depth setting: 1 - turret stop, 2 - immersion depth limiter, 3 - depth limiter locking screw, 4 - limiter slider, 5 - fine adjustment mechanism, 6 - immersion scale, 7 - spindle lock for installing the cutter.

The operation is performed in the following order:

• The milling cutter is installed with a supporting surface on the workpiece.
• The turret stop, which sets the immersion depth, is set with its lowest stop opposite the limiter end.
• The limiter locking screw is released, as a result of which the latter acquires the ability to move freely in its guides.
• The mechanism of immersion (lowering) of the router is unlocked.
• The motor slowly lowers down until the cutter touches the workpiece.
• The engine lowering mechanism is again blocked.
• The depth gauge is lowered until it touches the lowest stop.
• The limiter slider is set to "0" of the dive scale.
• The limiter rises to the position at which its slider shows on the immersion scale the value of the milling depth that you want to set. This operation can be done by raising and lowering the limiter by hand (coarse setting) or by using the fine adjustment mechanism (fine setting).
• The limiter locking screw is clamped, fixing the slider in the set position.
• The plunge mechanism is unlocked and the cutter moves up with the motor.

Now, if you lower the motor with the cutter to the lowest position (until the limiter end touches the shortest pin of the turret), the cutter will penetrate into the workpiece to the depth, the value of which is set on the scale.

If milling is carried out to a greater depth, it must be carried out in stages. This is done by turning the turret in such a way that the depth gauge during the first passes rests first on the higher stops, and only in the final pass on the lowest stop.

Choice of cutter speed mode

Unlike rotary hammers, screwdrivers and drills, the speed of rotation of the cutter is relatively high - usually over 10,000 rpm. This is because the faster the cutter rotates, the cleaner the cut surface is. However, too high speeds are also undesirable, since the machined surface can be charred, and excessively increasing centrifugal forces - especially when using large diameter cutters - can lead to breakage. Therefore, the speed of rotation of the cutter is regulated within certain limits depending on the material being processed and the diameter of the cutter.

In fact, the cleanliness of the machined surface is determined not by the rotation speed of the cutter, but by the linear speed of the cutting edge relative to the material. The larger the cutter diameter, the higher the linear speed. Therefore, when using cutters with a large diameter, the rotation speed is set lower. For example, for a cutter with a diameter of 10 mm, the speed should be from 20,000 rpm and higher, for a cutter with a diameter of 40 mm - 10,000-12,000 rpm. Specific values ​​are given in the operating instructions. The rotation speed is also determined by the hardness of the material being processed. The higher the hardness, the lower the number of revolutions of the cutter should be.

After prolonged operation at low speed, the router should be run for several minutes at maximum idle speed to cool the engine..

Direction of cutter rotation

The direction of rotation of the cutter can be forward or backward. At the first, the cutting edge of the cutter moves relative to the material in the direction opposite to the movement of the router (the edge cuts into the rough surface of the board and exits at the bottom of the milled groove). In up milling, the edge of the cutter moves in the same direction as the movement of the router (plunging starts at the depth of the slot). The up-cut milling is correct, the down-cut milling is used only in exceptional cases - when processing edges in which the location of the fibers leads to flakes. This method is considered unsafe, as it can lead to tearing the router out of your hands.

Milling

Milling parts with a manual router, as a rule, is associated with the use of various devices that ensure the exact position of the router. Therefore, milling techniques are discussed in the article Milling fixtures, which describes not only branded fixtures, but also do-it-yourself ones.

Before starting milling, the following must be done:

• The cutter is fixed in the collet.
• The correct engine speed has been set for the job.
• The required milling depth has been set using the plunge limiter (when working with plunge cutters) or a certain overhang of the cutter in relation to the sole has been fixed (when working with edge cutters).
• A guide bearing or ring (when working with edge cutters) or other device is installed to provide the necessary path of the cutter. In this case, the optimal cut thickness should be set - as a rule, no more than 3 mm.

The methods of working with a manual milling cutter differ somewhat depending on the mode in which the work is carried out. But in any case, the milling cutter is installed on the base - the workpiece or the auxiliary surface. The guide element of the router (bearing, ring, edge of the sole or other surface) is pressed against the guide edge (part, rail or template), after which the engine is turned on and the cutter is first immersed (if using the immersion mode), then the router smoothly moves along the trajectory , given by the guide element.

Basic safety measures when working with a router

Safety measures are described in detail in the operating instructions for the router. The most important ones that are simply vital to know include the following:

• Fastening the cutter and setting up the router must be carried out with the power cord unplugged from the outlet.
• Working with a manual milling cutter requires care and concentration. When milling, it is necessary to stand steadily on your feet and firmly hold the router in your hands. You can't work when you're tired, distracted, or drunk. This could cause the router to be pulled out of your hands and cause serious injury.
• The workpiece must be firmly fixed, otherwise it can be torn off by the cutter from its place and thrown with great force and speed.
• During the contact of the cutter with the material, one must be especially careful to avoid the so-called kickback - the effect when the cutter hits the material and receives a reactive blow in return, which can lead to the router being pulled out of the hands, breaking it or causing injury. To prevent a kickback, you need to firmly hold the router in your hands, firmly press it to the base and move the tool smoothly. The thickness of the cut layer should not be too large - no more than 3 mm.
• Clothing should not have dangling elements - those that can be wound around the cutter.
• Avoid inhalation of fine dust generated during milling. It's bad for the lungs. Dust can be sucked off with a vacuum cleaner or you can use a respirator.

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Milling cutter - a power tool with cutting attachments for processing, cutting and drilling materials. The cutter can have a monolithic design and be used as a production unit, or be made in the form of a manual milling unit.

By purchasing a portable woodworking device of this type, you can independently master construction skills based on video and photo workshops on the network. These materials often contain not only the basics of working with a hand mill, but also author's techniques that can expand the range of available tasks, as well as simplify the work.

At the initial stage of acquaintance with the device and functionality, it is useful to gain basic knowledge about the tool.

What is a hand saw capable of?

A hand-held milling cutter is a compact power tool with a high degree of mobility compared to a milling machine and allows you to perform:

• Creation of recesses and grooves.
• Drilling through and blind holes.
• Both direct and curly processing of edge and end parts of parts.
• Sawing parts of complex shape.
• Drawing patterns and inscriptions on a wooden surface.
• High-precision copying of details.

It is used in carpentry, as well as in building craftsmanship and other related fields. With it, you can do a lot of woodwork:

• Manufacture and assembly of furniture.
• Insertion of door hinges and locks.
• Artistic wood carving.
• Wood processing in construction.
• Cutting holes and grooves.

The presence of hand milling tools in the home arsenal will speed up and simplify the tasks of repairing and creating wooden products, subject to the rules for working with power tools.

Rules for working with a manual router

Work with a hand mill on wood should be carried out when using work gloves and goggles: this measure will protect your hands from splinters and other minor injuries, and your eyes from construction debris. Manipulations must be performed slowly, without sudden movements: otherwise, the result may upset the presence of marriage (“torn” edges, grooves, etc.).

Removing and fixing the knife in the clamp must be carried out using a screwdriver or the wrench included in the kit. It is important to tighten the thread firmly, but not overdo it so as not to strip it.

The movement must be carried out evenly throughout the entire operation of the engine. Otherwise, the result will not please the quality.

Beginners often apply too much or too little force when working with a cutter. As a result, the quality of the product suffers. Do not slow down the machine when turning the cutting element, as this can lead to overheating of the cutter and burning the wood.

The required cutting depth is achieved by calibration - using a lifting mechanism that changes the distance between the pin and washer located next to the actuator. A straight-line guide helps to achieve a smooth running of the knives in the process of work. Some cutters are equipped with a circular guide that allows you to create even circles of large radius. Milling circles with a radius of less than 15 cm is carried out using an adjustable centering pin inserted into the provided hole on the tool base.

Milling of grooves is carried out by means of an angular stop fixed on the cutter body. The workpiece to be processed is fixed in a stationary state - for safety and quality of the result. The selection of grooves with a depth of more than 5 mm is recommended to be carried out in several approaches. The same rule applies to any work to remove the top layer of the workpiece to any depth.

You should not start working with a router without studying the safety rules. The cutter is a source of increased danger that can cause injury and injury. Woodworking with a hand mill will be safe and productive if:

• The cutter will be sharp (the uneven edge of the product and the overheating motor will indicate the need to replace the nozzle).
• The workpiece to be milled will be fixed in a stationary state.
• The depth of wood removal will not exceed 5 mm in one go.
• Replacement of nozzles will be carried out only after de-energizing the tool.

In the course of working with the cutter, it is important to monitor the condition and “behavior” of the tool, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations in the instructions or on the packaging. Violation of the technological process, as well as the lack of proper care of the tool, will entail undesirable consequences. One of the most important conditions for work is the correct choice of nozzle for the router.

The main types of nozzles

There are many nozzles for woodworking with a manual milling cutter:

• Edge. Equipped with a bearing that allows you to set the distance from the edge of the part to the knife. They are used to create both curly and even edges on wooden parts.
• Slotted (spiral, fillet, dovetail, shaped). Allows cutting notches and grooves.

There are both simple and type-setting cutters assembled from two or more cutting elements. Using a type-setting mill, it is possible to realize the required shape of the product.

In addition to the shape, the nozzles for a manual router differ in thickness, height, as well as the relative position of the knives, which allows you to choose cutting elements for any task.

The most common cutting techniques

With the help of milling, you can create wood products. Carved railings, furniture facades, decorative items, all kinds of crafts and souvenirs. The possibilities of this tool are limited only by the skill and imagination of the master himself. There are a number of basic elements that any beginner should master the creation of. Mastering the following cutting techniques will allow you to achieve complex tasks by applying and combining them.

Open groove

If you need to create a workpiece with a groove starting from the edge, you should position the cutter so that the knife protrudes beyond the edge of the wood. The field of this should install the cutting element and only then start the engine. Having processed the edge of the product, it is necessary to raise the knife, loosen its lock and turn off the power to the unit.

Blind grooves are created in a similar way, with the only difference that the cutting element is not installed at the edge of the product, but at the point where the cut begins.

deep groove

If the depth of the required groove exceeds 5 mm, it is recommended to work in several approaches, each time increasing the depth of the recess, especially in the case of working with hardwoods. The depth of the last recess should be limited to 1.5 mm - for the smoothness of the part and the geometry of the groove.

narrow groove

For convenience and results when creating a part with a narrow slot, it is recommended to attach a flat base to the sole of the router. This part, in tandem with the guide rods mounted on both sides, serves as an auxiliary plane that ensures the correct trajectory of the knife. It is important to set the location of the axes in line with the center of the cutting element. The manual cutter is driven smoothly and slowly, ensuring a snug fit of the guides to the side parts of the workpiece.

end surface

The main indicator of the correct operation of a cutter with the end part of a wooden workpiece is the geometric accuracy and smoothness of the resulting edge. When processing the butt, it is necessary to start its implementation by creating a shallow cut by moving the knife in the direction of its rotation. This will ensure the high quality of the selection of the base material, after which it remains only to correct the result, leading the cutting element already against the direction of its rotation.

Curved edges

To create curved edges with a manual milling cutter, it is necessary to ensure the accuracy of the trajectory of its knife movement, use templates equipped with a thrust ring. With this cutting method, a round plate with a rim, called a "ring", moves along the template, providing a path for the cutting part of the tool. Before starting work, the stop ring is fixed on the sole of the router. The template is attached to the workpiece, which is fixed with clamps on the work surface.

The use of templates when working with a cutter allows you to produce identical parts in the required quantity.

decorative trim

Complex carved elements, three-dimensional patterns, paintings and inscriptions, curly cutouts - all this can be created in the milling process. With the increase in the practical experience of the master, the complexity of the projects available to him will also increase.

Artistic milling is a popular way of processing wooden products, and knowing the basic basics of the process will help to cope with it.

To ensure the stability of the work surface, it is best to use a vise. The drawing is applied in advance to the product with a simple or carpentry pencil. After the surface is marked and firmly fixed at an angle convenient for work, the direct milling process begins.

A nozzle is fixed in the router, which carefully, layer by layer, removes wood along the applied contour, which gives the image volume.

Modern architecture rarely resorts to the use of hand tools in the process of creating decorative elements. Carved architraves, intricate railings, furniture with embossed patterns and monograms - these products are successfully created using an electric hand-held milling cutter that provides high precision and speed of artistic cutting.

Safety

Caution when working with a manual router is a guarantee of the safety of the master and the results of his work. Basic safety rules:

• Use only sharp cutting elements. The degree of sharpness of the knife can be checked by gently touching the tip of the cutter with your fingertip: if the skin “sticks” to the blade, the knife is sharp. Another sign of insufficient sharpness of the knife is the overheating of the motor of the unit during operation and the “dirty” edge of the product.
• Check the serviceability of the power cord and plug of the unit before each switching it on.
• Remove dust and debris from the caliper, housing and collet nut.
• Securely fix the cutter in the collet with a wrench.
• After installing the cutting element, it should be fixed in the desired position by pressing the caliper lever.
• Always use safety goggles when working with the cutter, regardless of the presence of a protective screen in the design of the unit. You can add protection with a respirator.
• Before starting the motor, make sure that the moving part is not blocked.
• In order to avoid injury, the unit is first started and only then its knife is inserted into the workpiece.
• After finishing milling, remove the knife from the part, and only then turn off the engine.
• During operation, keep the rotating head of the cutter and the inner opening of the caliper in sight.
• Before replacing the nozzle, completely disconnect the unit from the power supply.
• It is important to fix the workpieces to be processed on the working surface with the help of clamps.
• Use only clean knives. If contamination is found on the nozzle, clean it before installation.
• When using an edge cutter with a bearing, make sure it rotates easily on the end stop and does not jam or squeak.
• Use only the correct unit.

A hand mill for wood is a tool that does not take up much space, but will allow you to perform most tasks in the process of working with wood. The unit will make minor household repairs affordable and open up opportunities in the field of modern architecture and personal creative development. Carefully choose a router, follow the rules for its operation, and working with it will be productive and full of positive emotions.

A manual milling cutter is rightly considered indispensable for a home craftsman - a lover of carpentry. This device has huge capabilities that, with little skills, can be used to good effect. It does not require special skills, but still, to work with it, you must have at least elementary knowledge of theory and practice.

Fraser is electric part milling machine, i.e. which combines the rotational movement of the cutting tool and the simultaneous movement of the workpiece. Manual option It provides for small dimensions, compact design and mobility, which makes it possible to carry out work anywhere manually.

With a manual cutter you can do the following operations:

• billet profiling, i.e. creation of a curly surface (plinth, cornice, glazing bead, etc.);
• edge processing (simple and curly);
• grinding (read:);
• production of grooves, spikes, slots and folds;
• sampling quarters;
• grooving (straight or spiral);
• carving and engraving;
• formation of curly seats;
• drilling holes, incl. complex shape;
• cutting work.

Kinds

Currently, manual milling cutters are produced in 3 types.

1. Top router. It can be based on two principles of action:

• Fixed variety. In such a device the engine is in a fixed state. The depth of immersion of the cutting part is provided by the movement of the entire router in the vertical direction.
• Submersible variety. In this design, the apparatus itself rests motionlessly against the supporting surface, and the deepening of the cutter is provided moving the engine along special guides. This movement occurs automatically under the action of a sufficiently rigid spring.

2. Edge router. Its main purpose is the removal of chamfers and the processing of edges with the possibility of giving them various shapes.

3.Slat router. This type of device is designed for sampling grooves and grooves.

To improve the functionality of all types of routers various devices are used, changing the feed direction of the cutter, processing accuracy, material sampling performance. These include special guides, templates, clamping elements, thrust mechanisms and parts.

Operational features of the equipment

An important feature of a manual milling cutter - simplicity of design. There are no gearboxes and complex transmissions, but rotation is transmitted directly from the engine to the working body. At the same time, a special role is given to the stops and regulators of milling parameters. The main technical characteristics that must be considered when choosing a device - power, rotation speed and stroke, i.e. cutting depth.

Device and principle of operation

The most popular universal designs in the form of a submersible, top milling cutter. His body is the basis(head) with the electric motor installed inside. It is mounted on guide rods fixed on a support platform (platform), which makes it possible to move the working body, and its damping is provided by rigid springs.

How to work?

Processing of workpieces with a manual milling cutter is carried out on a specially equipped table or holding it in your hands. Small parts are best milled on a table where they can be securely fastened.

You can select the most commonly used milling techniques:

1. Works with a standard parallel stop, which is always included with the machine. It provides the possibility of rectilinear movement of the tool, which is important in the processing of ends, the manufacture of grooves and grooves.
2. The use of a guide bar allows the machine to move at an angle that can be changed.
3. When working with round blanks and manufacturing rounded elements, milling is carried out using a compass.
4. Templates or copying rings allow you to process the workpiece according to a given pattern, to duplicate parts.

Edge Machining

If you want to form a decorative edge of a complex configuration, it is difficult to guide the tool with your hands, arbitrarily. In this situation templates should be used.

It's easiest to use already finished sample, which is fixed on the table. If there is no sample, then a template of any shape can be made from hardboard or MDF 8-12 mm thick. In the manufacture, you can use an electric jigsaw.

Copying the template on the workpiece being processed is carried out using a special cutter ( copy cutter) equipped with a bearing. A rod stop is installed next to the cutter.

During milling, the bearing runs around the template and transfers this trajectory to the cutter. As a result, it provides exact copy of the part. With complex and deep reliefs, work is carried out in several passes.

What is given special attention?

When working with a manual router, first of all, safety precautions must be followed:

• reliable fastening of the workpiece on the table and the cutter in the chuck;
• installation of the cutter and any repair work with a guaranteed de-energization of the tool;
• attentiveness at work, concentration of attention, stability of position;
• use of protective measures - goggles, gloves, buttoned clothing, respirators.

note

The movement of the cutter must be opposite to the direction of rotation of the cutter to avoid dynamic impact. In one run, the material should not be sampled to a depth of more than 5-6 mm.

Anyone can use it, but for this you should first familiarize yourself with the features of the device and the nuances of its operation.