Sofa bed do-it-yourself drawings. We make a folding sofa with our own hands

An important factor is a wide selection of finished products that can fit into any interior and decorate it. They have standard sizes and have a high price, so sometimes it becomes necessary to make a non-standard sofa bed with your own hands.

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What is a sofa bed

The sofa bed is a symbiosis of two separate pieces of furniture. When folded, it functions as a comfortable sofa for relaxing. After the transformation, it turns into a comfortable sleeping place, which can easily be used by two people.

The shape of the sofa bed can be angular, straight, round, modular. Thanks to the installation of a folding mechanism in the sofa, the furniture is transformed into a double bed.

Device and dimensions

All sofas come off the assembly line in standard sizes:

1. allowable length - 120-190 cm;
2. width - 55-70 cm;
3. armrest height - 10-40 cm;
4. back height - 20-70 cm;
5. seat height - 40-45 cm.

Before you start making a sofa with your own hands, you need to study in detail the device of numerous types of this product, which is directly related to the folding mechanism:

• The book is represented by metal corner plates that connect the seat, back and armrests. They have been familiar to everyone for many years. The sofa-book unfolds by lowering the back from a vertical position to a horizontal one. It is necessarily equipped with a linen box and requires some space against the wall for transformation. For this reason, the product is placed with a slight indent or pushed back a little before being turned into a bed.
• Click-clack is a kind of book, but instead of soft upholstery, the base is made up of a metal frame and slats. The mechanism got its name because of the characteristic sound that is heard during unfolding. The advantage of the design is the additional moving armrests that lower and lengthen the bed. When folded, the click-clack takes up much less space than a book. In addition, the backrest can be fixed in the “half-sitting” position.
• The accordion is transformed by pushing the seat forward, which, in turn, pulls the back folded in half. When folded, such a sofa takes up little space, and after unfolding it triples. The accordion mechanism is durable and reliable. Often manufacturers supplement models with removable covers.

• Meralat, or French folding bed, is a compact sofa. The sleeper is hidden inside it under a seat attached to one segment. Unfolding occurs by lifting the seat from the backrest and turning it forward, supported by steel legs. Attached to the back of the seat, one segment pulls the rest, and the sofa can increase 3 times. There are models in which the seat is represented by pillows and unfolding occurs after they are removed.
• Sofas with a berth, which is located under the seat. They are pulled forward by means of a roll-out mechanism. Then the segment rises up, and the backrest lowers to a horizontal position.

When choosing any type of sofa for home production, you must first purchase a transformation mechanism and study the drawings for its installation and use.

How to make a sofa bed

Before proceeding with the production of a piece of furniture with a hidden bed at home, you need to measure the available area for its installation and determine the maximum width of the sofa. Based on the data obtained, a detailed drawing of the product is developed with assembly diagrams of the constituent elements.

To understand how to make a sofa bed, consider the process of making a book.

Based on standard sizes, acquire:

• boards 190x20 cm long - 2 pcs., 80x20 cm - 2 pcs., 80x50 cm - 2 pcs., 100x50cm - 12 pcs.;
• timber 5x5 and 6x4 cm;
• sheet of fiberboard, plywood or chipboard;
• wooden or metal legs (if provided by the drawing);
• filler (foam rubber, spring blocks);
• cloth fabric for upholstery and sheathing of the frame and armrests;
• mechanism "book";

In addition, you need to prepare a measuring tool, pencil, scissors, screwdriver, electric jigsaw or hand saw, fasteners.

Frame assembly

It is necessary to start manufacturing with the assembly of the linen box. To do this, fold a rectangle of 2 long and 2 short boards. Strengthen the corners of the structure with 4 bars 20x5x5 cm, placing them outside and pushing the short side boards 5 cm inward. Additionally, 2 rails are installed across the box. The bottom of the box is sewn up with a sheet of fiberboard or plywood.

At the same stage, you need to paste over the outer part of the box with synthetic winterizer and upholster it with a cloth. To do this, use a long canvas equal to the perimeter of the entire box, width - 30 cm.

At the next stage, you need to make the back and seat yourself. According to the scheme, they have the same size 189x65 cm. For manufacturing, a 6x4 cm timber is used, in which it is recommended to make grooves for the lamellas in advance with a milling machine. Fastening can be done without grooves, directly on top of the timber.

Seat upholstery

The fabric upholstery of the seat follows the same pattern as the backs. The slats are covered with foam rubber and sheathed with fabric. To form a flat bed after unfolding, the thickness of the filler must be the same in both parts.

In the places of the future location of the transformation mechanism, the fabric is not nailed, but left to hang freely.

Back upholstery

To create the soft part, foam rubber with a thickness of at least 6 cm will be used. The thicker the filler, the softer the upholstery will be. Since lamellas are located in the center of the back, pre-cut foam rubber sheets are glued around the perimeter directly to the timber. In order to avoid problems with the installation of the folding mechanism in the future, pieces of 5x10 cm are immediately cut out in the corners in those places where the back and seat will be connected.

Then a piece of fabric is laid on a flat surface, which exceeds the size of the back by 25-30 cm. A blank is placed on it with foam rubber down. Around the perimeter of the entire product, the fabric is carefully wrapped and slightly stretched to avoid the formation of wrinkles. Fastening is carried out using a construction stapler.

Hinge installation and assembly

The next stage of production is the installation of the “book” mechanism. The back and seat are laid side by side, keeping a gap of 10 mm between them. You can insert something to prevent the parts from shifting towards each other. Then a metal device is applied in the corners. The mechanism is attached to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws.

To install the upper part of the sofa, you must first drill holes in the center of the side walls of the linen box. After placing the back and seat in the right place, you need to connect them with the bolts included in the kit. The holes in the mechanism and the boards must match.

armrests

For the manufacture of armrests, a frame is first assembled from a bar. Then, a blank cut from fiberboard or plywood is screwed to it with self-tapping screws. The upper part of the part is softened with felt and foam rubber. A synthetic winterizer is glued over the entire plane and upholstered with a cloth.

When the armrests are completely ready, they are screwed to the bars that were previously installed at the corners of the linen box.

What do you do with old furniture?

The easiest way is to make a sofa, the frame of which consists of several transverse and guide bars.

If you feel sorry for giving fabulous money for a ready-made sofa in a store, then try to make it yourself.

It is quite simple to make such a design, and you only need a minimum set of tools and materials.

How to make a simple sofa with your own hands?

You will need to develop a drawing, make an accurate calculation of the amount of materials needed, purchase tools and assemble the structure. You will need the following tools:

• square;
• electric drill;
• a hammer;
• electric jigsaw;
• construction stapler.

From the materials you will need to purchase:

• metal corners;
• beam;
• stain or colored glaze;
• foam rubber;
• zippers and Velcro;
• durable cord.

For a city apartment, a sofa of this design will look rough, but it is ideal for a country house or cottage. There are several reasons why you should make a sofa:

1. It will be possible to significantly reduce the cost of funds. Such a design will cost many times cheaper than a product purchased at a furniture store. However, it should be remembered that savings should not be at the expense of quality.
2. The possibility of obtaining a quality design.
3. Possibility to choose the accessories you like.
4. You can get the design of the required dimensions.
5. In the future, you can by reducing the cost of cash.

This design consists of a backrest, front panel, seats and armrests. The base will be fixed on the finished frame.

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The sequence of steps for making a sofa

First of all, you need to prepare bars of suitable sizes. It is not recommended to make a structure from pine, since such wood is not able to withstand deformation and must be further processed.

After that, you need to make accurate measurements. It is necessary to mark the elements and make grooves, then drill holes for the stopper on the frame so that it is possible to install the fixing screws into the lower horizontal rail of the frame, excluding cracking of the stopper.

In the process of preparing materials, you need to pay attention to the pattern of the tree. Connections must be made so that the annual rings are located with convex sides to each other.

After assembly, all elements must be carefully sanded. After that, the base is processed with colored glaze or stain.

It is worth noting that the dimensions of the finished structure will be set by the parameters of the sofa base.

In order to make support legs, you should use a bar of solid rock with a cross section of 7x7 cm and a height of less than 10 cm. To ensure a reliable connection, you need to fix the bar to metal corners.

The back can be made with an inclination. The skeleton should consist of 2 horizontal and 4 vertical boards. The height of the back should be chosen based on the height of the user and personal preferences. Plywood must be completely applied to the back of the skeleton. From the side on which the back rests, plywood must be applied exclusively to the open part. The lower part can be closed with a seat. Examine the backrest drawing with all the dimensions you can see.

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Production of soft seats

Seats can be made of foam rubber with a density of more than 35 kg/m³. It should be laid in several layers. The base is covered with a protective sheet, which will minimize friction between the decorative coating and the sofa frame. Thus, it will be possible to exclude the formation of folds.

The back cover is made of thinner foam, so the load on the back is much less than the load on the base of the sofa. In order to sew a decorative coating, you should use a strong cord. Zippers or Velcro should be located along the rear edges of the lower part of the structure. The upper part of the seats is fixed with Velcro.

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How to make a roll-out sofa with your own hands?

There are designs that can be used as not only a sofa, but also a bed. These designs include roll-out sofas.

One of the most common types of sofas is roll-out design. In this case, the berth extends from the bottom of the structure. To push such an element, you will need to pull on a special handle or loop. Pillows are placed on the rolling out part of the sofa. These folded cushions can be used as a backrest. There is another type of roll-out design: the back in it does not consist of several pillows, but of a solid soft base. When the sofa unfolds, the backrest and seats are installed on the retractable part.

The advantages of a roll-out sofa include the following properties:

1. The retractable part of the structure is large, so even several people can be accommodated on it.
2. Small dimensions of the structure in the folded position.

The disadvantage is that in the unfolded position, the structure takes up a large amount of space. Therefore, it is not recommended to install it in small rooms.

Making a roll-out sofa with your own hands is not difficult if you have minimal skills. You will need the following items:

• a small number of boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm high or more;
• beam;
• backs;
• seats;
• material for sheathing the frame;
• dense foam rubber;
• door hinges.

For the construction of the structure, pine shields will be used, which will need to be further processed. After all the necessary tools and materials are prepared, work can begin.

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The procedure for making a roll-out sofa

In this case, a structure will be made with the dimensions of a bed 1140x1980 mm. Consider the drawing of the sofa.

For the construction of the structure, you must perform the following steps:

1. The backrest will be made from a furniture board, on which the upper edge is marked with a pattern.
2. According to the marking, a diamond-shaped gap and the upper edge of the backrest are cut out. This can be done using an electric jigsaw. Before making a diamond-shaped opening, you need to drill holes in the shield for the tool saw. You also need to make 2 holes near the non-sharp corners of the figure. In sharp corners, you do not need to turn the saw of the tool. After cutting from the edges, it is necessary to remove traces of cuts.
3. After the pattern of all other elements from the shield is completed, they must be well polished. In the process of performing this operation, it is necessary to securely fix each element that needs processing. To do this, the raw surface must be fixed on the workbench.
4. With the help of a router, you will need to process the edges of all workpieces, for which you should use the appropriate profile cutter. If you wish, the finished components can be additionally tinted. The color of the impregnation is selected based on the design of the room in which the structure is installed. At the end, the elements will need to be coated with a wear-resistant colorless varnish.
5. After that, the support rail should be fixed to the wall. The dimensions of the roll-out sofa and the height of the fixing must be determined based on the ease of use of the structure. After determining the overall height, the height of the side supports of the folding seats must be selected. First of all, the rail is fixed in the middle so that later it can be set horizontally.
6. The rail is mounted according to the level. This element must be slowly turned around the fixing screw. After that, the rail is fixed at the edges.
7. Another beam should be placed on the support rail, folding seats are fixed on the hinges. After that, the beam is fixed with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the structure. All holes for self-tapping screws must first be made in the rail.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, a sofa is a very complex product, one of the most difficult in furniture production, so the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, relatively little functional and not very strong and durable. This publication is designed to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will pass on to their grandchildren, unless they have to be pulled over. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for summer cottages, nurseries, temporary use, until the money is collected for furniture) is quite possible in the garage, shed and even on the balcony. Furniture makers of the old days worked that way. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, during its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more labor-intensive and requiring skill with more ingenuity than a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor, but produced with a hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is a corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially evident in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping and living sofa-corner, pos. And in the figure, folded, it has no sleepy look and the most terry orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (in the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded, it turns into a double bed. These are also called sofas for bachelors: I’m tired, I’m not up to it - I’ll fall asleep on a single bed. And another (or forever the only) passion came - enough space for two to get settled, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, nothing complicated: uniformly designed and put together a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in a corner is not only a bad omen, but also uncomfortable, therefore, in recent years, the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The scheme of the device of such a kitchen corner is shown in fig. below. You can dine alone on it if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and wardrobe trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade products, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - according to the place in the room; other dimensions are typical, see below. The material of the sidewalls is a hardwood board 40 mm or chipboard 36 mm. The bottom of the sofa - chipboard 12-16 mm on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board 30 mm, bars 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-tree tie-in, all with PVA gluing or Moment. Materials at current prices require no more than 3,000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (bearing) structure, most often including a box, a bed - sofas, in the presence of a lifting box, a back and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a box. Typical dimensions of the sofa:

• Length - 1200-1900 mm.
• Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
• The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
• Back height, no add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
• Back tilt - 5-20 degrees.
• The height of the "sitting" surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

• Legs - 50-70 mm.
• Carrier frame - 50-100 mm.
• Box - 150-250 mm.
• The bottom of the sofa (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

Thus, up to 120 mm remains for the soft stuffing with lining. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work on making a sofa is its stuffing, sheathing and tightness. These are different production operations; each of them individually and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves in Runet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for tightening; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, serious preparatory work will be required. Its essential subtleties will be described later; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. The pros don't work much for them. it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of prosperity?), when it was necessary to sign up for furniture upholstery for a year, and even give a bribe, it was also successfully used by "full dummies". The sofa is stitched step by step as follows:

1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (can be propylene);
2. Install soft padding, most often - foam mats;
3. They fit soft, in order of preference, spandbond, synthetic winterizer, batting;
4. On a piece of decorative fabric, the backstage is swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightenings are provided, see below;
5. A decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown onto the product with the inside out, pulled off, as described below, and the corners are swept with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
6. After a day, they check to see if it wrinkles somewhere, if it sags, if the pattern, especially geometric, has led, and if necessary, correct the corners;
7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
8. Pull cords into the backstage for tightening, if necessary;
9. They throw a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
10. After another day, they check according to the drawing, adjust the tension threads ;;
11. Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
12. Form decorative ties.

The procedure, as you can see, is quite complicated and long. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Home-made templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the consumption of tissue. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut 150 cm wide is equal to 2 sofa widths + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the cut length using templates (allowance - from 15 cm) saves up to 1 m in length (!); how much it is in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being reupholstered, it is undesirable to use the old sheathing as a pattern. Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clearly seen that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same machine, jacquard or tapestry.

Additional explanation is also required. 1-3. If you fill the skin hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while it will turn out that the skin is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what is this life span for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads from below and from above to wick away fumes/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and box, if the design of the item does not provide for any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. The lapels of the fabric at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection, because. vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in the tracks came to his mind when he was repairing his sofa. It is not surprising that a rich man himself was busy with furniture, Christie was an engineer of the second kind. The Ι clan shifts papers at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do with his hands everything he has thought of.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the box (in the simplest case, piano / card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be stiff with the mattress loose on it. In any case, the sofa is also upholstered in advance separately.

A special case is office sofas, etc., operated in adverse conditions with the possibility of inaccurate use. Their carrier system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there with confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and accessories, "oblique screws" are economical and technologically advanced and therefore are widely used in the industrial production of furniture of classes up to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and immediately in 2 mating parts. And self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in fig. It fits best in the gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, pillows are brought / taken away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (it can be worked out) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finishing - acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

To the dacha, where the rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a home-made sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. rice. Its basis is strong sidewalls-armrests and a pair of transverse beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

• Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen), chipboard 30-36 mm.
• Drawer - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
• Leg beams - any industrial wood.
• The back is the same, a shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still come in handy for us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the beams from the timber, but also to the sidewalls from the inside in a zigzag (snake) with a step of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a greater proportion of dynamic sign-variables, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers is assembled, shown on the right in the figure; box assembly diagram down there on the right. The material of all valleys is oak/beech 30 mm; sidewalls and the bottom of the sofa plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - on glue.

Note: it is not worth using laminated chipboard - only the E0 phenol class is acceptable for children's furniture, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, it will not work to lift the sofa back: the back is in the way. It remains to move forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not a tall two-meter tall, how can she put / get something? To roll over entirely in a box and squeak, jerking slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa couch with it, is shown in fig.

Note: the author knows a curious case with an oblique rhombus. A drunken but skilled man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubbyholes behind the levers (they say, there are also some kind of mechanics there) and arranged hiding places for bottles with the necessary swill in them. He even brought the tubes under the lining behind the back. And the better half is more than 10 years old, until he went into a deaf bogged down and did not split himself, and it was not clear why this day is a day drunk, and he does not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and in the professional world, innovative works appear all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for unfolding a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either he wedges / seizes, then it’s hard for ladies’ hands to assemble / disassemble the sofa, then it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the chosen sample finds that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with a fairly high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, lovers most often make sofa beds roll-out / pull-out.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is the legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break, a sofa that sags when extended will help.

The bridge scheme is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, they will have to reach out to them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge scheme is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides/stops) run in the troughs of the drawer. Pay attention to children. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but just a decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half-bed A is often made to lean forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by an overlay C. Then small boxes D open. hidden caches and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space is required behind the back. What does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console scheme are deprived of this vice, now for some reason they are completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a cantilever sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and an increase in the height of the back, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal twin bed). The excess width of the seat in the assembled form in this case is compensated by the pillows, which, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the hozblok), they are stored in a box. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood pad under the bottom wing of the hinge.

The main materials are 50x30 bars and 4-6 mm plywood. On the basis of the armrests - cohesive waste construction timber. The frame of the console is the same design as for the drawer. Connections - through spikes or met. corners, anyway. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is desirable to increase the height of the console, and put the box on its legs.

About eurobooks

The concept of the euro is now as soon as not exaggerated. Moldovans, for example (they have experience of communicating with local migrant workers), dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk euros (totally, to death, to a green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet for the most part (no constipation or diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed is now often on sale for a reason, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but the click-clack-type eurobook sofa (see fig.), This is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To get a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also recline. How to call them is not clear. It doesn't look like headrests. Sidebars, right? When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are blocked by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where to get it? Unless in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is typical for the current, and not only the current, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a click-clack sofa-book is well.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill-cut? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is fitted must be fitted before the general assembly. How to fit, we will discuss after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and box

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on deaf spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture lives on such for centuries, but to make them, you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it or virtuoso possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Cross section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 with glue.

The box is best assembled on the bosses of a triangular section from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened with box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with gluing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you are not too lazy and assemble the box on the dowels before installing the bosses, a pair per joint.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the stapler's staples do not fit well into it, many bend and tear the skin; wallpaper nails - too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile, delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet, it can simply fail, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to pull the sofa, the bottom of the chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material is picked open so that you can no longer attach a new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if a box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood the width of the length of the sofa are not produced. Pieces need to be connected so that the joint is kept on weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are trimmings that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped hardwood plank, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a “cut” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its inner width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsargs (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner with a thickness no less than that of plywood. It will give the beam rigidity, and without it, sheets assembled end-to-end, under workloads, will begin to delaminate each other mutually. Everything is assembled on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

They connect the box to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length for long sides.

Note: if the box is without bulkheads, the height of the back should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back side of the box will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (pos. 1 in the figure) is the side member A from a solid board (120-150) x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplifying the work, they make it a composite of sections, but it will be stronger in one piece. This is cut flush into vertical racks and placed first on dowels. It is also desirable to assemble the entire frame first on the dowels, and then fasten the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. Bosses in this case can simply be timber trimmings, tk. The interior volume of the back is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the base frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of bottom slab made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. Together with the spar and rectangular parts of the uprights, it makes up the lower back belt. This is a very responsible node, because. the normal operating load of reclining people tends to tear it off the lower support.

The normal number of racks for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly in length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the back is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm or more. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something upstairs or when they drag the sofa by the back when moving furniture. Also here, the upholstery is most likely to crawl and wrinkle, so the upper timber is planed into the same plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. So it is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but it is not necessary to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. On the last one there is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards? How long will this sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with a support is just the case when metal fasteners in furniture are needed. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the details of the back with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads in the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are also spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

Corners, on the other hand, need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bheaviest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally below. Better 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use 60x40 unequal corners with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely fitted. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to put the upholstery folds into the junction of the backrest and the support, and it will not work to fit it after installing the armrests.

armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or frame, like a backrest. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The loads on them are less, therefore they are fixed from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in an envelope or a snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made framed. In fact, technologically they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside reaches the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional lathing of laths approximately 30x40 and inserts from boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the back racks, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-tree tie-in with reinforcement with self-tapping screws on glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars must be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears in this case, but there is a significant advantage when tightening: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the box, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa lining (the most loaded one) lies more evenly and holds on tighter.

Upholstery

Upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a turn, as in Fig. on the right, the method is common, but therefore no better. According to GOST USSR, tucked-in upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second is for more prone to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But note that the numbers in Fig. indicative, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on turned inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam, it is bent and left free during the firmware.

Next comes the tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the sheathing with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then the cover is pulled with a harsh thread from the underside along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, they achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should be, the edges are fixed with an indent from the edge of the fabric of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, they are attached with a collar.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the box are upholstered, as shown in fig. The box is on 3 sides, the back remains open. So it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press the fabric. In extreme cases, the sofa blank is placed on a pair of stools. Tightening the back just won’t work, because. it is already attached to the base. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom they are pulled on tragus, like a sofa, and for tightening from the sides, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support. Well, the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

1. The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
2. The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (back bottom) seam is left unsewn;
3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
4. Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tight fittings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the joints between them. A smooth sofa does not harmonize with any design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with ties, see fig. 2 options are also possible here, for less and more dense fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightenings, and the tightenings themselves are made when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, front wings (sleeves-tunnels) are stitched on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by pulling either the cords or the tension threads of the cover alternately.

beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew backstage, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical) wooden surface of a suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or a doghouse.

The ends are stripped of insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British, British, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently emerging vein of the wire does not stick into a sensitive place, they are wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

One-piece sofa cover - this is the aerobatics of wallpaper business. However, suddenly a shabby but strong sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the attic of the grandmother? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them with knowledge of the matter, then they will take a moderate fee and put your soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in "1001 Nights", know that the basis for tightening the one-piece cover is the lines of the sofa's interface with the armrests and back. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (outer) and trisectors of triple (internal) along grooves in a wooden frame and, for triple corners, through holes in it. The cords are moderately pulled, their ends are fixed and then they straighten and pull the cover.

Backstage for cords can be, depending on the design, facial or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the backstage seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: in general, the machine is the main problem when sheathing the sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check if it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than #20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

And sooner?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Couldn't it be somehow quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, to a new apartment? To sketch any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From construction pallets - pallets - they do a lot of things, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the principle of an adirondack-type garden chair, on the left in fig. A little more difficult of them is to build a rustic-style retractable sofa bed, in the center. And having applied (with a tool, not to a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you can’t immediately say that it is from a decommissioned container, on the right. For example, see which sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens the same ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a funny sofa. Comments are not required, what is in Fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...

The ottoman is good because it looks quite presentable during the day, and at night it turns into a comfortable sleeping bed. In stores, such products are full, you can choose any color and size. But if you want something exclusive, and skillful hands miss work, then why not build it yourself. For yourself or your children. And at the same time, save money.

First of all, you need to decide what design the planned couch will have. Does she need a back (or maybe two), what height will the legs be, is the device supposed to be. Well, there are other details to consider. Depending on the model, the number of materials and their type are calculated.

However, as a rule, either wood boards or furniture panels are used to make the ottoman frame. The first option is cheaper, and the second is better in terms of strength and environmental friendliness. You will also need wooden blocks, steel furniture corners, screws for connecting parts.

As for the tool, you should prepare:

• sharpened simple pencil for marking;
• tape measure, ruler, square;
• electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver (or screwdriver);
• furniture (construction) stapler for fixing upholstery.

Stylish homemade sofa for giving

Do-it-yourself sofa-ottoman

Retractable model

Such a furniture option, like a do-it-yourself retractable ottoman bed, is perfect for a family with two children. To do this, you will need two strong frames of a suitable size (by the way, you can use old single beds or sofas. Or make frames from wooden blocks.

The upper ottoman, which will not slide out, has side backs and fairly high legs. Its frame is reinforced with narrow transverse slats 1.4 cm thick.

The lower bed, sliding under the first, has only a front side part and two legs. It is equipped with wider cross planks cut from 1.4 cm thick plywood. They are fixed so that when moving they fall between the upper bars. In addition, we need transverse bars that limit the course and are attached to wide slats.

The following video will tell you how to make a stylish ottoman sofa with your own hands:

Children's option

Making it yourself is very practical. After all, children grow up so fast - why waste money. Moreover, you can make a cute little thing that the baby will love very much.

So, we decided to build a small sofa 1.5 by 0.8 meters. Here is a step-by-step instruction on how to make an ottoman in the nursery with your own hands:

1. Let's take slats 4 by 3 centimeters - this will be our frame. We will strengthen it with metal corners. At will, you can make legs - even from bars, even from curly balusters.
2. Now we take wood boards and sheathe our frame from all sides, except for the top. You will get a large box, which we block across with a bar. We process the surface outside and inside - primer and paint.
3. The seat and back (straight or curly) are cut out of thick plywood. We glue two layers of foam rubber to them - 10 centimeters and 2 centimeters. After the glue dries, we cover the parts with batting, and on top with upholstery fabric.
4. Using corners and screws, we attach the back to the frame. We fasten the seat with the help of furniture hinges - under it we got roomy drawers for the bed.

Do-it-yourself ottoman for a teenager

Change from bed

It happens that you want to update the interior so much, and thoughts about this are just a fountain, but one thing stops you - lack of money. But in the house there is an old, but still strong bed, and the owner with a hammer, saw and screwdriver "on you". In this case, there is every chance to get an excellent ottoman, which will cost almost nothing. Unless you need to spend money on a beautiful upholstery fabric.

Let's describe the process step by step:

1. We disassemble the old bed, carefully removing both backs and legs. Well, we remove the mattress beforehand (if there is one). If the bed is very ancient, then we will disassemble the frame, coat the parts with glue (PVA is best), and then assemble and let dry. So there will be no unpleasant creaking during operation.
2. We sew a cover made of dense material, measuring all the details. You can attach the cover with glue or a furniture stapler. In the latter case, you can attach a separate piece of fabric, cut to size, for each detail.
3. If there is a mattress, then put it in its place. If it is not there (worn out), then we buy it. Or we use dense polyurethane foam of the right size instead of a mattress. From above, we close the mattress with a cover made of upholstery fabric, and inside we sew another cover - not necessarily elegant, but dense
4. We apply one of the backs of the bed to the frame and make markings with chalk according to the shape of the future back of the ottoman.
5. We cut out the back with a jigsaw, glue it and the legs of the bed with synthetic winterizer, sew covers from upholstery fabric on all these details.
6. Flip the frame upside down. We put the legs in covers and fasten them, hiding the edges, to the frame.
7. We fasten the back, dressed in a cover (hem the edges at the bottom for accuracy), with screws in several places.

A great example of placing a do-it-yourself ottoman

Making your own sofa

To make a sofa sofa, you need a little: decide on a model, find a suitable drawing and clarify the dimensions. To do this, we measure the space intended for our future furniture.

Now we will prepare wood boards with a thickness of 1.9 centimeters, of which the frame of the product will consist. You will also need bars 3 by 4 centimeters, which will make the structure reliable.

Now let's get started:

1. We cut out two side, front and back parts. Moreover, the back part should be higher than the front (the difference depends on the desired height of the back), and the right one should be slightly higher than the left.
2. We collect all the details, fastening them with furniture screws, the heads of which are hidden. We fasten the bars to the side parts, stepping back a centimeter from the top. In the middle part of the product we fix two transverse bars to hold soft pillows.
3. We close the sloppy edges of the chipboard with special overlays, using small cloves and glue to fix it. Then we prime, varnish or paint the frame.
4. Soft cushions (three pieces for the seats and three for the back) are made of high density polyurethane foam. The inner covers are solid. The outer covers consist of two hemmed pieces of fabric with grommets along the edges, pulled together with a cord.

The following video will tell us how to make a sofa in the style of the Chester sofa with your own hands:

Old ottoman

When the upholstery is tattered and frayed, upholstered furniture, even quite strong, takes on an extremely miserable appearance. And ashamed to invite guests. But you can fix this with your own hands by buying seven meters of suitable upholstery fabric and allocating time for work.

1. First you need to disassemble, removing all overhead elements (in particular, the back).
2. Then, using an anti-stapler, side cutters and a flat screwdriver, you need to remove the old upholstery. We try to do this as carefully as possible - after all, all these removed pieces will serve as patterns for fresh upholstery.
3. Next, we look at what is under it: if the foam rubber or spring blocks are out of order, then they will need to be replaced. In any case, a layer of fresh foam will not be superfluous.
4. Rasporov old upholstery, cut out new parts on it.
5. Then we sew them where necessary.
6. It remains to fix the fabric with a furniture stapler, avoiding distortion and pulling well.
7. Then we collect the updated ottoman.

And if the internal filling is still quite good, and only the upholstery has suffered, you can do it easier - sew a new cover.

The following video will tell you how to drag an old chair, difan, sofa or, for example, an ottoman with your own hands:

Spring cushions

The spring block at the pillow is still quite good, and the upper layers have become unusable - this is quite common. In this case, the best option is to sheathe the spring block on all sides with felt, and then with three-centimeter polyurethane foam grade 4065.

The most economical way: leave the burlap of the spring block. If it is dilapidated, we change it to the old upholstery from the pillow. Then we glue the outer box of 3038 polyurethane foam. Thickness - 3 centimeters.

If the springs are out of order, they will have to be replaced. However, if the price of them seems too high, you can make new pillows from the same polyurethane foam. Get it cheaper. For softness, wrap them with padding polyester.

Old sofa with new pillows