We make a chair with our own hands. How to make folding chairs

Making a chair with your own hands is very simple and will not take much of your time. Before you make a chair, decide what kind of chair you want. Maybe you want a simple and ordinary stool or you want an exclusive, chic chair. Or maybe you want to make a high chair to please your child.

Let's start by choosing a material. If you want your chair to be of good quality, then you should not save on wood.

We stock up on the necessary material and tools. In addition to the basic tools, prepare glue and various paints and varnishes if you plan to paint your chair.

So, before making a chair, we prepare the workplace and get to work.

Making a stool

First, prepare the bars in the amount of 4 pieces. The length of the bars should be 440 mm. And the section of the bar is 40 * 40 mm. Be sure to make sure that there are no notches on the material, otherwise splinters are provided to you. Therefore, sand the material with sandpaper.

Now you need to make 8 jumpers. 4 horizontal for seat support dimensions 20*50*280 mm. the other 4 are for attaching the legs. 30*20*280 mm.

Now we make the seat of our chair. In the case of using solid material, we immediately proceed to the processing of sharp corners. If you have several pieces of wood, then first we connect them.

Now you need to make grooves in order to fasten the prolegs. They are made at a height of 270 mm from the floor distance.

At the ends of each jumper, you need to make spikes, and on the legs of our stool there are grooves for these spikes. The length and, accordingly, the depth should be 20 mm.

We collect all the available parts. We do not install the seat yet to see if there is any bevel and curvature. If everything is fine, then for greater stability, coat the joints with glue. And then install the seat. And we tighten everything with self-tapping screws.

Your stool is ready. Now your imagination and creativity come into play. We paint and varnish the stool.

Making a folding chair

Such a chair is useful for hiking, picnics and recreation.

Required details:

• Legs - 4 pieces. The dimensions of the legs are 40*20*470 mm.
• Crossbar size 40 * 20 * 320 mm - 4 pieces. The seat beams will be attached to them.
• Prolegs - 40 * 20 * 320 mm - 2 pcs.
• Bar for the seat - 4 pcs. Dimensions 2 pcs. - 90*20*350 mm, sizes of others 2 pcs. - 60*20*350 mm.
• Bolts 6*40 - 6 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws.

We make rounded edges on all the details. So the chair will turn out more beautiful.

We connect the legs with the letter X. It turns out two parts. We connect with a bolt closer to the top of the chair.

We take the bolts and connect the ends of the legs and the crossbar from above. We fasten the prongs. And we alternate the bars. Wide and narrow. The chair is ready. We paint and varnish.

Chairs with your own hands can be made from any material at hand. Even from old barrels and any thick branches. We remove knots, grind, and then varnish.

A comfortable rocking chair, in which it will be convenient to sit down with your favorite book, is easy to make from an ordinary chair. To do this, you need to attach armrests to the chair, and attach swinging skids to the legs.

For comfort, you can make the chair extra soft. That is, not only the seat, but also the back.

If you plan to make a high chair for your child, be sure to sand everything with extra care. Because children have very soft skin, which can get hurt from the smallest and most insignificant splinter. Soft chairs are made for children. Try to choose a material that will be easy and convenient to clean in the future. When fastening the parts of the baby chair with self-tapping screws, be sure to deepen them and close them with plugs from above.

If your summer cottage has logs, sawn trees or firewood, a chair can also be made from them. We grind chumps. We cover them with varnish and leave to dry. Now we put a pillow and a comfortable chair is ready. You can also make a backrest for this chair. Sawing off a small part of another stump. These chairs are ideal for a large company while cooking barbecue.

As it turned out, making a chair at home from improvised means is not so difficult. It is enough to have the necessary materials and tools. Show imagination. Create masterpieces from ordinary chairs. Paint and varnish your masterpieces. Your creations will bring you only joy, because they are made by your hands!

The main occupation of fishing is waiting for a bite. And it is much more convenient and pleasant to do this while sitting on a fishing chair assembled with your own hands. There are more than enough drawings of them on the relevant resources, and the variety of species allows you to choose the most suitable option that matches your own preferences.

Features of fishing chairs

With your own hands, you can assemble various models and using various materials. But their main characteristics remain unchanged. Among the qualities that chairs must have are the following:

• Sustainability. The chair must be stable regardless of the relief of the coastal strip.

• Strength. The design must support the weight of the fisherman, and not break after the first use.

• Small size and weight. Stowing a bulky and heavy chair even in a personal car can be problematic. And in those cases when you need to walk a certain distance, any person seeks to lighten his burden. And a heavy or large chair in such a situation is unacceptable.

Since it is planned to assemble a fishing chair with your own hands, its design should be simple. Therefore, it is better to give preference to simple schemes, which everyone can assemble.

Design Options

Before deciding how to make a fishing chair with your own hands, you need to decide what kind it should be.

The simplest option is a stool. These are the lightest and most compact models that are easy to carry. And the technology of their manufacture is simpler than that of other options.

A fishing chair with a back will be more comfortable. It is a little more difficult to assemble it with your own hands than the previous version. However, it will allow you to relax your back during prolonged sitting, which is also important for any fisherman.

The most comfortable option is a chair that has both a back and armrests. Sitting on it, the fisherman will not experience muscle tension. True, such models have a lot of weight. But if you drive a private car to the place of fishing, then this is not a problem. One of the modifications of this model can be considered a folding chair. You can even lay down on it.

Experienced fishermen often prefer a box chair. You can sit on top of it. And inside it has a storage area where you can hide fixtures, tools or catch. This option resembles a home locker. It only has a seat on top. In order not to get up every time you need to look at the contents of the box, the box can be organized in the form of a drawer.

Materials used

You can assemble a chair for fishing with your own hands using various materials. The use of improvised raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of all work.

You can often find wooden chairs. Wooden blocks of various sizes are used both for the manufacture of the frame and for the preparation of the seat, backrest and other elements.

Metal pipes are widely used as supports. They can be combined with wooden or fabric seats. To cut out the seat, pieces of tarpaulin, leather and other durable fabrics are used. There are also plastic items. It is a durable yet lightweight material, ideal for making fishing chairs.

Do-it-yourself structures are assembled using fasteners. The base is assembled, as a rule, using self-tapping screws, bolts, screws, brackets.

Stool on four plastic legs

Very convenient to use are self-assembled folding fishing chairs in the form of a stool. The basis in them is made of plastic pipes. A piece of dense, durable fabric is taken as a seat.

The first step is to prepare the blanks. 8 pieces are cut from a plastic pipe. The pieces that will serve as a support should be about 50-60 cm long. Such blanks will require 4 pieces. 4 more pieces will be required 35-40 cm long. Two of them will go to the lower jumpers between the legs. They will allow you to get a more reliable and stable design. And two will organize the seat.

Long pieces are connected in pairs. Each pair is fastened with a bolt, twisted in the middle. You should get two cruciform parts. They are interconnected at the edges with short elements. Should be a retractable design. The ease of folding (unfolding) is regulated by the tension of the bolts.

The upper short jumpers are interconnected with a piece of fabric (for example, tarpaulin). Should be a seat. A narrower fabric ribbon is stretched between the lower pair of jumpers. It will be a limiter that will not allow the chair to fold.

Folding chair on metal supports

You can also make your own folding fishing chairs with metal legs. Their design is similar to the previous version. The only difference is the use of aluminum (or steel) pipes. It is worth noting that this option will have more weight than made from a plastic pipe. But at the same time, its reliability will be higher.

The manufacturing process itself is similar. Blanks can be taken in the same dimensions. The only difference is in the way the individual elements are attached to each other. Metal will be a little more difficult to work with. With a tool, most connections can be made welded. Only at the intersection of the legs must there be bolts. Otherwise, the chair will not fold.

Wooden chair with four legs

This is another option that will help you assemble a folding fishing chair with your own hands. Drawings prepared in advance will allow you to determine the dimensions of the structure and the required amount of materials.

4 blanks are prepared from wooden bars, which will be supports. The two parts are connected to each other by a bolt twisted in the middle of the legs. You should get two blanks that are somewhat reminiscent of scissors. The blanks are connected to each other with wooden planks. They will serve as a seat. They can be replaced with fabric.

Jumpers are made from below in the form of wooden beams. They won't let the chair slide.

Wooden four-legged stool with a back

Similarly to the previous option, you can make a folding fishing chair with a back with your own hands. To do this, you will need to slightly change the design. And you will need the following materials for this:

• Wooden supports (2 pcs.) 91 cm long.

• Wooden supports (2 pcs.) 55 cm long.

• for seat length 31.5 cm.

• Six boards of various sizes for the seat (40x7, 39x4, 36.5x4, 36.5x4, 31x4, 30x4).
• Wooden back (40x0.7 cm).

• Crossbars for joining bars (1 pc. 39x5 cm and 2 pcs. 32x3 cm).

Begin work with the preparation of supports. Holes for bolts are made on their outer part. On the inside, grooves are made along the rail with a length and depth of 1.1 cm. The supports are connected by crossbars. The joints are coated with glue.

To make it more comfortable to sit on a chair, a bevel is made above a bunch of long supports. The boards on the seat are connected to the bars with the help of dowels and screws.

three-legged chair

There are options for chairs that have only 3 legs as a support. There are also drawings for similar models. A folding chair for fishing with your own hands, assembled, and even at minimal cost, will appeal to many. And yes, it's easy to make. You will need the following materials:

• 3 legs about 60 cm long (they are made from wooden bars with a round section).

• A piece of fabric in the shape of a triangle (for example, thick leather).

• Mounting bolt with loop.

• Long fixing bolt.

• Washers (3 pcs. fixing and 3 pcs. finishing).

• Nuts (2 pcs.).

A hole is drilled in the middle of the cut bars. The same holes are made on the upper sections of the bars. They will be required to attach the fabric to the seat. Under them, holes are pierced at the corners of the fabric.

The two legs are connected by a long bolt. A bolt with a loop must be put on the bolt between the legs. With it, the third leg will be fixed.

A fabric is screwed to the upper sections of the legs using decorative washers. Next, a fabric strip is attached, for which it will be convenient to carry a high chair.

This chair is very lightweight and compact. It unfolds (assembles) without any effort. A shoulder strap makes it easy to carry. Materials for its manufacture are available. The only downside is convenience. Three legs do not give the desired stability. A small seat does not allow you to fully relax. Yes, and the lifespan is questionable. The fabric quickly starts to tear in the corners.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a fishing chair with your own hands is easy. Having chosen the model you like, you can begin to prepare the drawing. According to it, the calculation of the necessary materials and the dimensions of the necessary parts is made. And then all the elements are connected together.

The choice of model and materials depends on several basic parameters. The main ones can be considered ease of manufacture, convenience and comfort during operation, size and weight. Their combination depends on If you go fishing by car, you can choose comfort and neglect low weight. If preference is given to hiking, then it is better to choose lighter and more compact models.

Whatever product you make from natural wood, and even with your own hands, a creative approach is definitely needed here. Any tree is a living material that can be easily processed. If such products are properly monitored and cared for, they will last a very long time. One of the main advantages of wooden objects is their ability to fit into almost any interior, bringing warmth and coziness, comfortable and familiar. If you are a creative person and want to make a chair with your own hands, here you will learn about it in more detail.

Making furniture with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to understand what exactly you need and for what purposes. Surely you would like the furniture to be not only beautiful, but also very durable and safe. To do this, it is better to protect yourself and purchase quality materials. Despite everything, even natural high-quality wood will cost less than buying a finished product from it. The most suitable tree species are beech, oak or pine. They are very durable and reliable. To make a frame, purchase a beam with a section of 40 * 40 and / or 40 * 60, mm. To make jumpers and a back bar - you will need boards with a thickness of up to 1.5 cm. Well, if you want to make a chair in which there will be a back, and even a soft seat, purchase a sheet of plywood.

Of the tools that will be useful to you for creating furniture with your own hands, you should prepare: a saw, an electric jigsaw, a chisel, a hammer, a screwdriver, a mallet, sandpaper, a stapler, a triangle, a meter, clamps. Joiner's glue will not be superfluous, and if necessary - paintwork. Choose fasteners in the form of stainless steel self-tapping screws. If you plan to upholster the seat, prepare the staples for the stapler.

For those who decide to make such a masterpiece for the first time, we recommend trying it from a stool. Because, in fact, a chair is not the easiest thing to learn how to make furniture.

Therefore, in practice, it is better to first learn how to make a stool, and only then move towards other products. In general, a stool is the simplest version of a chair, without a back. The seat can also be upholstered or not.

Be sure to look at the photos, which clearly show the process of making a wooden chair. And, of course, follow the instructions. So.

Bars, section in which 40 * 40, length 44 cm - take 4 pcs. such. To prepare the wood from burrs, use sandpaper: first coarser grit, then fine.

Next, take the kings, 4 pcs. - the seat of your chair will rest on them, and they will also be jumpers. Parameters tsarg 2*5*28 cm.

It would be great if you found a solid wide board. But if this is not possible, you should adhere to the groove-thorn connection. If you wish, the seat can be rounded.

On the edges of each drawer and proleg, you make spikes, respectively, on the legs themselves - grooves. Spikes and grooves - 2 cm in length. In turn, the grooves should be made, from the floor, at a height of 27 cm.

All parts, except for the seat, need to be assembled together to make sure everything is level and not skewed. If you did everything right, you can lubricate the grooves and spikes with wood glue and firmly connect all the products together.

It is not difficult to fasten the seat to the resulting structure. To do this, a self-tapping screw must be screwed into each leg, it’s good if you drown its hats in the tree a little. The attachment points can be masked with a special putty for wood, or plastic plugs, matching the color of the product.

If you have chosen good wood, it has a good structure, shade... Take paint or just varnish, open your product and use it to your health!

Make a folding chair? Easily!

This type of furniture is simply irreplaceable in many life cases. Especially if the house is small, and it is difficult to place large furniture in it, and guests need to be seated for the holidays ... And if you are going to go on a picnic, you definitely need such a chair!

In order to make an ordinary folding chair, you will need:

• 4*2*47, cm legs - 4 pcs.
• 4 * 2 * 32, cm crossbars for supporting the bars of the seat - 4 pcs.
• 4*2*32 cm prolegs - 2 pcs.
• For seat: 9*2*35, cm - 2 pcs., 6*2*35, cm - 2 pcs.
• Bolts with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of up to 4 cm - 6 pcs.
• To attach the prolegs directly to the legs, as well as the bars to the support rails, you need self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 4 to 5 cm

For a more aesthetic appearance of the product, round the edges of the parts.

The legs need to be connected in pairs with each other, crosswise. It is better to do this at the top of the legs. This will make a stable chair model. Nuts and bolt heads drown a little in the tree.

Connect the crossbars and the upper parts of the legs with bolts. Next, on each half, attach one leg and a seat bar (1 narrow and 1 wide). When the product is assembled, you will get that each wide bar is followed by 2 narrow ones. At the same time, the distance between narrow and wide bars is 1.5-2 cm. It remains to open it with varnish or paint and voila!

Variety of wooden chairs

It may be that you will like such creative activity, and you will become a manufacturer of designer furniture. But in fact, there can be a lot of options for what to make of wood! The same rocking chairs, various options for children's furniture and much more!

There are a lot of instructions on the Internet on how to make a folding chair with your own hands. Quite often, interesting designs come across, but for amateur craftsmen inexperienced in carpentry, their manufacture can present certain difficulties. Italian designer Leo Salom has created a folding chair that even a child can make. His creation can be seen in Figure 1.

Despite the simplicity of the design, the folding chair is very stable and durable.

designer chair

True, the Italian used for the manufacture of plywood from veneer, exotic for the northern latitudes, but it will be perfectly replaced by 20 mm birch, coniferous or combined domestic-made material. When making this chair with your own hands, the drawings shown in Figure No. 2 will be a good help. The list of tools required to create it is minimal. You will need:

• jigsaw;
• drill;
• tape measure, ruler, pencil.

Figure 1. A folding chair from the Italian designer Leo Salom can be made independently if you use the drawings.

The most difficult thing in the process is the exact marking of all the details of the chair, so it should be approached with all seriousness. You can make paper templates and transfer the contours to plywood using them. There is another option - to apply a grid of square cells on the veneer with a pencil and draw the configuration of the blanks on them. After this operation, all the details are cut with a jigsaw.

The folding chair is equipped with two pairs of swivel joints. They can be used as butterfly loops of the appropriate size, but the best solution would be hinges that will be cut into the thickness of the plywood. They are somewhat more difficult to make, but the design with them will look more aesthetic. M10 threaded studs are best suited for hinges.

In the places of their installation in the part No. 2 marked on the drawing, 8 mm holes must be drilled. They are threaded for studs. On the rods, the thread is removed on one side. At the opposite end, a slot is made for a screwdriver. The studs are screwed into the plywood, and all structural elements are assembled together on some plane. In parts No. 1 and No. 3 of the folding chair, holes for the hinges are marked. After that, shallow holes are drilled in them, into which the studs are screwed.

The chair unfolds at the desired angle, and holes with a diameter of 30 mm are marked and drilled on part No. 3 for the fixing fangs. All surfaces are sanded, processed with drying oil, covered with stain, varnish or paint. If desired, a pad made of soft material can be attached to the seat.

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Regular variant

Figure 2. Drawing for the manufacture of a designer chair

After creating a work of design art, you will be able to make a regular chair that can be installed in the house. Despite its simplicity, this design is characterized by increased strength, although no tongue and groove joints were used in its manufacture. Her drawings are shown in Figure No. 3.

For the manufacture of the chair go:

• bars 50 by 25 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• plywood or similar boards for the back and seat;
• glue.

If you want to upholster a chair, then stock up on foam rubber and upholstery.

From planed bars are cut:

• 2 rear legs (A) 1150 mm each;
• 2 front legs (B) 550 mm each;
• 2 crossbars (B) 650 mm each;
• 2 crossbars (G) 500 mm each;
• the crossbar blank for the back (D) is cut to a length of 400 mm.

Before installing self-tapping screws, holes are made in the bars corresponding to the cross section of the fastener. In addition, countersinking is performed under the caps of the self-tapping screws. Glue is applied at the points of contact of the bars with each other. It will provide greater bond strength. The surfaces to be assembled are pressed tightly and tightened with fasteners. First of all, the side parts (A, B, C) are glued and pulled together. After that, the transverse elements (G and D) are mounted.

Figure 3. Scheme-drawing of the manufacture and assembly of a conventional chair

For the back of plywood, a square of 450 x 450 mm is cut out. The seat is made from a 700 x 500 mm rectangle. From the side of the rear legs, grooves are cut in the seat corresponding to their cross section. Both the back and the seat are screwed to the chair with self-tapping screws. Before that, glue is applied to the contact surfaces. To fix the backrest, you need 9 screws, and for the seat - 12.

If desired, you can upholster the chair with some material. The upholstery on the back of the back can be masked with an overlay made of thin plywood or fiberboard. Well, if you have a milling machine, then all the edges of the chair can be given a more presentable rounded look.

The wood of the structure is best treated with antiseptics and moisture-resistant impregnations, and then coated with varnish or enamel.

Craftsman Tom McLaughlin designed this chair by combining elements from different furniture styles without sacrificing comfort for beauty. Using templates, it is easy to make curved parts. To make connections, Tom uses three machines: a band saw, a circular saw, and a slotter (you can use a drill with a slotter instead of the latter). After finishing the carpentry part of the work, complete the chair with a comfortable seat, which is made in a simple and proven way.

Think carefully before you drink

The design of a chair consists of many details that require attention and concentration in their manufacture and fitting. Here's what Tom advises.

Shape your legs

1. Focusing on the diagrams, draw the contours of the back leg BUT real size (Fig. 1). Stick the drawing on a 6 mm hardboard and cut out the template, marking the position of the nests on it. Trace the outlines of the template on the rear leg blank and cut out with a band saw, leading a cut near the contour line. Then cut out the second back leg.

Tom advises! For a better look, the texture pattern on the front of both hind legs should be mirror symmetrical. To do this, when marking the contours of theswarm legs flip the template, swapping its ends (photo A). Then you need to place several legs side by side along the width of the board. This ensures that paired details are obtained, similar to reflections in a mirror. (photo B).

2. Use double-sided tape to glue the template to the sawn leg blank. Fix in the collet of the router installed in the table, a long

bearing cutter and adjust its reach by aligning the bearing with the edge of the template. Work the hind legs along the contour to the final shape. Mark the top and bottom of each leg with a pencil, remove the template and sand the legs down to the contour lines.

3. Cut out the front legs AT("List of Materials" and rice. one). Mark those front faces. Tilt the saw blade 7° and file the bevel on the outside of each leg so that the front edge is wider than the back. Without changing the inclination of the disk, cut out two strips of wedge-shaped section 250-300 mm long under the same angle from the scraps, which will be required when selecting sockets in the legs.

Cut out the back pieces

1. Cut out the bottom rail With backrests (Fig. 4), but don't bevel its top edge just yet. Mark the position of the four nests.

2. Cut out the top rail D backrests (Fig. 5) with an allowance of 10 mm in length. Make two copies of the top rail template. Glue one copy to the bottom edge, but don't cut out the curved shape yet.

3. Medium board E and side bars F backrests, make a blank with a size of 13 x 178 x 533 mm (Fig. 6). You will saw off the side rails later after sawing the spikes.

Select all slots

1. Mark the position of the sockets on the legs A, B (Fig. 1 and2) , remembering that the parts must be mirror copies.

2. Choose a 10mm Front Drawer Socket G in front legs B (photo C, rice. 2). Turn the front leg AT so that its beveled edge is adjacent to the stop on the table of the slotting or drilling machine (a photoD) and make a 10mm socket at an angle for the side drawstring N. Do the same with the second front leg.

WEDGES HELP YOU SET PARTS INTO THE RIGHT POSITION

To keep the walls of the socket parallel to the front edge, lay the leg with the beveled edge down, placing a wedge-shaped bar.

Lay the part with the front face on the wedge and use the second to secure it in the clamp. Do not use a second wedge if your machine does not have one.

3. If you do not have a large enough piece of workpiece left over from sawing out the rear legs, make a curved support (tsulag) with a size of 90 × 525 mm (photo E) from scraps, the thickness of which is equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the legs. It will help to keep the leg at the right angle when choosing a nest for the side drawstring.

Transfer the extreme marks of the nest for the drawstring to the edge of the board, circle the leg template and cut out the curvilinear support-tsulagu with a band saw.

Align the nest marking lines on the stem and cradle. If the foot rests on the machine table, the socket will be selected at an angle.

4. Using a curved support (a photoF), select in back leg BUT 10 mm slot for side drawer side H. Do the same with the second back leg.

5. For sampling 10 mm sockets for the lower back bar With in the hind legs BUT press the flat side of the leg (in which the previous socket was just made) against the machine stop and select the socket on the inside of the part.

6. Make an 8mm socket for the top bar D backrests at the top of the hind legs BUT on the inside, pressing the front side of the part against the stop.

7. Choose 6mm sockets in the bottom rail With backrests for middle board E and side bars F (Fig. 4).

8. Make the same 6mm sockets on the bottom edge of the top rail D for medium board E (Fig. 5). Making nests for side bars F, insert a 4° wedge between the crossbar D and emphasis (step 2).

Now cut out the thorns

1. Make a simple stud saw as shown in the article Sawing studs safely and easily.

2. To cut three sizes of spikes, make three spacers from scraps 6, 8 and 10 mm thick, as well as a spacer, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the saw blade. The width of the spacers is 75-100 mm.

For sawing 10 mm spikes on drawers G, H, select a spacer of the required thickness for the first cut. Remove it before the second cut.

3. Cut out the front G and side H seat drawers (Fig. 7). Holding the appropriate spacers between fixture and workpiece by hand or clamp (a photoG), file at a 90 ° angle the cheeks of the spikes at the ends of the front G and side H tsarg, lower With and top D backrest rails, as well as on the blank of the middle board and side bars E/F backrests (Fig. 4, 5, 6 and 7).

Note. On the side rails H form tenons at a 90° angle only at the front end of the pieces.

(Although the top bar spikes should have a final length of 17mm, make them 22mm long at this point so you don't have to set up your saw specifically for this.)

Tom advises! After making cuts on the test cuts that form the cheeks of the tenons, remove excess material with a band saw, but leave an allowance of about 6 mm at the shoulders to avoid jamming the cut between the blade and the longitudinal stop of the saw machine. Check the fit of the trial spikes to the corresponding sockets. If the tenon is too loose, put one or two strips of masking tape on the spacer and cut out another test tenon.

Using the same settings, but tilting the saw blade at an angle of 7 °, press the outer side of the drawstring against the fixture and cut out the tenon cheeks.

4. Attach a piece of wood to the head of the cross (corner) stop and make in the lower and upper crossbars C, D, in the blank for the middle board and side bars E/F, as well as in the front tsar G cuts forming the shoulders of the spikes.

5. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 7° from the vertical and file the cheeks of the 10 mm thick oblique tenon at the rear end of the side drawers H (photo H).

6. Without changing the tilt of the saw blade, angle the shoulders of the front and rear spikes on the side drawers (a photoI, J, TO).

Make the first cut so that the disk barely touches the cheek of the spike. Using a bevel and a marking knife, extend the line at a 7° angle to the rib where you want to make the second shoulder. Finally, position the part on the other side of the disk and saw out the second shoulder according to the markup.

7. Increase the angle of the saw blade to 8°. Form cheeks and shoulders of 6 mm thick oblique spikes on the lower end of the blank of the middle board and side bars E/F just like in steps 5 and 6 (Fig. 6a). Return the saw blade to the vertical position and rip the side bars off with rip cuts. F from each edge of the workpiece. Using a jigsaw and a chisel, make a cut in the middle of the wide tenon at both ends of the middle board E (Fig. 6) and add 6mm wide cutouts around the edges (see "Trick Tip" below).

Make the first cross cut with a jigsaw from one rip cut to the back edge of the other. Then saw off the rest.

Hone your skills with hand tools to accurately fit your midboard

It is not easy to make a cut in the middle of a wide spike only with the help of machine tools or power tools. There is a better solution. With a bandsaw or a well-sharpened backsaw, make cuts to the shoulders of the tenon, then use a jigsaw, the narrow blade of which will easily turn in the cut, to remove the excess, leaving a small allowance at the base. Finally, using a chisel, cut the remainder flush with the shoulders.

Point the chisel inward at a slight angle. This guarantees the tightness of the joint along the line of the shoulders.

8. Form the top spike shoulders on the front and side sides G, H (Fig. 7). Shorten the ends of the spikes on the top bar D by 5 mm.

9. Dry (without glue) assemble the chair frame, adjusting the spikes of too tight joints with a zenzubel or file. First, insert the middle board and side rails into the slots of the top and bottom backrest rails, and then fit the spikes of the rails to the rear leg slots. Then take care of fitting the spikes of the tsarg to the sockets of the legs. After finishing fitting all the connections, separate the parts.

Finish all curved contours and constrictions

1. Using a bandsaw, create curved surfaces on the front and back sides of the top rail D back and then sand smooth.

Pressing three fingers against the front of the part, draw a line from above parallel to the front edge.

2. Glue a second copy of the top rail template onto a piece of 6mm hardboard and file around the outline. Using this template, mark the edges of the bevel on the top and back sides of the part. The marking line on the top side should be parallel to the front rib. (a photoL). Tilt the bandsaw table to a 27° angle and file the bevel along both lines. Smoothly sand all curved surfaces.

3. Mark and file the 16° bevels at the ends of the bottom rail with a bandsaw C (Fig. 4). Then tilt the saw blade to an angle of 22° and file the longitudinal bevels. Remove sawing marks with a small planer. Using the top rail template, mark the arc at the bottom edge of the bottom rail. Cut out the arc with a band saw and sand smooth.

4. Use a band saw to make tapers on the rear BUT and front AT legs (Fig. 1 and 2). Smoothly sand or file sawn edges.

Sequentially mill bevels of different widths according to the markup. Then, using a small planer and loop, smooth out the transitions between them.

5. Mark the back of the rear legs BUT at a distance of 178, 470 and 533 mm from the upper ends. Attach a 45° chamfer edge cutter to the router collet and cut successive bevels of different widths (on both sides of each leg): 6 mm wide from the top to the 533 mm mark, 8 mm wide between the 178 and 533 mm marks, 11 mm wide from marks 470 to the last (photo M).

At the 533 mm mark, use a semi-circular rasp to round and smooth the bevel, achieving a smooth rounding.

Note. At the upper end of the leg, the chamfers and the middle flat burr must be of the same width. Do not make the chamfer too wide so that it does not fall below the shoulder line of the top bar of the seat.

6. Using a miter planer, make small bevels around the bottom ends of all legs A, B. At the top of the hind legs BUT chamfer 3 mm wide on the front and sides (Fig. 1). Then chamfer a 12 mm wide bevel at the back.

7. Finish all parts with #220 sandpaper using a sanding pad.

Tom advises! Before the final sanding step, change all surfaces to raise the pile. This will avoid lifting lint when removed wet sponge excess glue, and you do not have to sand in awkward places around the joints.

Proceed to Assembly and Finishing

1. Glue the middle board spikes E and side bars F into the sockets of the upper and lower crossbars D, C backs. Then glue this assembly to the rear legs BUT. Glue the front side G between front legs AT. After thorough drying, glue the spikes of the side tsarg H in the sockets of the front and rear legs B, A, fixing the assembled frame of the chair with clamps.

2. Cut out the front and rear corner braces I, J and install them in place using glue and screws to reinforce the connections between the legs and drawers and make it easier to mount the seat.

3. Apply any top coat of your choice. (Tom recommends three coats of "Danish" oil or any lacquer polish.)

4. Make the base of the seat K and fit it (Fig. 3 and 9). After finishing the upholstery, attach the seat to the corner ties I, J screws 4.5 × 50 mm.

Templates

About the author of the project

Tom McLaughlin began carpentry professionally in North Carolina, first copying classic designs made by famous 18th century craftsmen. Tom now lives in New Hampshire, where he trains carpenters in his own workshop - a large three-story mansion surrounded by maples, birches and oaks. He enjoys designing and making new chairs more than anything else. “The challenge of making them as comfortable as possible and looking flawless from all angles awakens a real creative passion in me.” He has designed more than two dozen chairs that have won numerous awards in design competitions.