Do-it-yourself circular: drawings, video, description. Homemade fixture for precise cutting of boards with a manual circular saw Templates for a circular saw with your own hands
It is extremely difficult to make an accurate transverse cutting of the board with a hand-held circular saw in the standard version. Get the perfect cut in accordance with the markup allows a simple home-made fixture, easily made from scraps in your home workshop.
The cutter is designed to cut boards from 100mm to 250mm wide in 50mm increments, but can be easily resized to suit your needs.
How a Hand Saw Attachment Works
The device under consideration is extremely simple and consists of only a few parts: a base for a saw, a guide rail, a stop bar and an eccentric clamp that provides secure fixation even on lumber that has been loosened with slight deviations in width.
It is very easy to use homemade. First, markings are made on the board.
Then a homemade fixture is installed on top, the lower stop of which is pressed against the edge of the workpiece, and the right edge is aligned with the mark.
Now it remains to put the circular saw on the base and make a cut, pressing the edge of the sole against the guide side stop.
The result will be a perfectly even cut that exactly repeats the markup.
With this attachment, it is convenient to make many cross cuts when frequent movement of the tool to a new cut line is required, for example, when grooving in bars. It will also come in handy if it is necessary to reduce the length of the workpiece by a few millimeters, and it will cope with this task no worse than a miter saw.
How to make a device with your own hands
The cutting attachment is made for a specific model of power tool. Measure on your circular saw the distance from the engine to the bottom of the sole and subtract 5 mm. The result obtained is the height of the guide stop.
Prepare according to the dimensions of the plywood base with right angles and wooden slats with parallel edges.
Measure the distance from the cutting disc to the edge of the sole.
Add an allowance of 6–10 mm and install a guide rail at this distance from the right end of the plywood. Fix the bar with countersunk screws, controlling its strictly perpendicular position.
Screw the stop bar on the reverse side and fix the fixture on the workbench.
Cut the plywood with a circular saw to the final width, creating a reference end for precise positioning of the fixture along the markup.
Draw a cam cam template on paper.
Mark the piece on 10mm plywood and mark the center of the bolt hole with an awl.
Cut the workpiece with an electric jigsaw.
Make a washer with a diameter of 50 mm from the same plywood using a sliding drill for a ballerina wood.
Grind the blanks and pick up an M6 or M8 furniture bolt with a mustache (or with a square headrest), a handwheel nut, a washer and a bushing. The latter can be made from a tube of suitable diameter. The sleeve length is the total thickness of the base, arm and plywood washer.
Make holes in the base with a drill according to the diameter of the sleeve, which serve to rearrange the eccentric clamp according to the width of the board to be cut.
Assemble the eccentric mechanism: insert a bolt with a sleeve from above, and put a wooden washer, the cam itself and a steel washer from below. Tighten the parts with a nut.
Glue a strip of sandpaper on the inside of the fence to prevent slippage when the eccentric locks, which can occur when the device is fixed on a smoothly planed workpiece.
The clamping system of this device has a stroke that ensures fastening on the boards with a run-up in width of about 10 mm. If you need to cut or trim other sizes of workpieces, simply place a piece of wood in front of the stop bar.
If desired, the potential of the considered device can be expanded by adding a cutting angle of 45 °. To do this, you will need to slightly increase the dimensions of the support platform and install a second thrust bar at this angle.
Cut the plywood first
With the first ripping cut, separate a 305 mm wide strip from the edge of the plywood sheet, as shown in the “Nutting Diagram”.
A longitudinal slide is made from this strip, so make notes and set the workpiece aside. Cut the rest of the sheet across, separating the workpiece 686 mm long for the cross slide and a few small parts. After marking the 533mm piece for the tenoner and high stop, set it aside.
Cut the cross slide blank lengthwise to a width of 502 mm. From the trim of this workpiece, cut out three strips 51 mm wide. Make ten pieces of these strips with a length of 51 mm, three with a length of 76 mm, four with 102 mm and two with 305 mm. Glue eight square pieces in pairs, aligning the edges to make four blocks 38 mm thick. In the same way, glue two pieces 102 mm long. When the glue dries, you can start working on the first fixture.
Half a sheet of plywood is enough to make them, and they will help maximize the capabilities of your machine at minimal cost.
Make precise cross cuts, select grooves, cut parts to the same length, form tight tenon joints, file straight edges of boards ...
The list of operations that can be performed with these devices will be long. With 19mm plywood and the necessary fittings, you can make all five fixtures in a couple of weekends that will help improve and diversify your work, and you will not have to regret the time spent.
1. Sled for accurate and safe cross cuts
Take a blank for the cross slide and saw off a longitudinal strip 79 mm wide from the edge for the stop (see "Cutting diagram").
Having fixed the limiter on the stop of the drilling machine, make 6 mm holes at a distance of 38 mm from the ends of the stop workpiece (Fig. 1). Saw off a strip 19 mm wide from the workpiece and make counterbores for flange nuts on its edge. Insert the flange nuts and re-glue both parts of the stop by driving the bolts through the holes to align the pieces.
When the glue is dry, cut the tongue along the bottom edge of the stop (fig. 1). Take a blank for the sled, make sure one end is exactly at right angles to the edge, and press that end against the longitudinal stop of your machine, with the perpendicular edge facing you. (The fixture will be accurate if the rip fence of the machine is parallel to the saw blade.)
Glue the stop to the base of the sled flush with the trailing edge and fix (photo A).
From a piece of hardwood (we took maple), make a slider, fitting it to the width of the groove in the saw table. Temporarily attach the slide with double-sided tape, aligning the slide with the longitudinal stop (photo B), then finally secure with screws. To allow adjustment or replacement, do not glue the slider.
First, file the previously made workpiece for this device to the specified length (Fig. 2). To make T-slots, cut two slots 6mm wide and 10mm deep. Install the T-slot cutter in the router table and raise it to a height of 10 mm. Then make a pass along each groove (photo D).
For clamps, take the two remaining plywood blocks with dimensions of 51 × 51 mm. Drill a 6mm hole in the center of each square and counter holes in two 102mm blocks (Figure 2). Then make second holes in long blocks with counterbores for flange nuts at a distance of 19 mm from the opposite end. Install the flange nuts and assemble the fixture as shown.
To file an uneven edge with a jig, place it close to the blade, leaving a minimum gap. Move the longitudinal (parallel) stop to the opposite edge of the device and fix it. Remove the slide and place the workpiece on them so that the edge protrudes beyond the edge of the base, fixing with clamps.
To avoid damaging the clamps, do not overtighten their screws. If required, use additional square plywood spacers to compensate for the thickness of the workpiece. To make a taper on a leg, mark the start and end points of the cut on it. Align these marks with the edge of the sled. If necessary, add a spacer between the presser and leg to prevent damage to the presser by the disc teeth. Raise the disc 3 mm above the top edge of the stem and file the constriction.
3 and 4. Additions to the longitudinal stop will help you make bevels, folds, spikes and much more
Take the workpiece for the high stop and tenoning device. Both devices have a similar design, so it is advisable to cut out their parts at the same time. Measure the longitudinal stop of your machine and determine the dimensions of the side supports and jumpers (Fig. 3). Saw them and vertical stops in accordance with the required dimensions. Drill holes and insert flange nuts into the vertical stops of both fixtures, as well as the high stop side support. Assemble the fixtures by holding the parts together with glue and screws (photo G).
For the back stop of the tenoning device, glue together two plywood strips measuring 51 x 305 mm. Brief advice! Make a few back stops from leftover pieces of plywood to quickly replace worn ones.
When the glue is dry, align the trailing edges of the back gauge and the vertical stop of the tenoner. Through the holes in the flange nuts, mark the centers with a 5mm drill and drill 7mm holes at these points. (Oversized holes allow you to adjust the position of the backgauge.) Attach the backgauge and make sure it is at a right angle to the saw table.
5. Safely grooving and sawing short parts with one tool
Make this simple L-shaped fixture from the two remaining 51x76mm blanks. It is useful for two cases. Firstly, it helps to cut grooves without a groove disc. To do this, adjust the distance from the screw head to the lower projection, which should be equal to the width of the groove, reduced by the thickness of the saw blade.
For example, to cut a groove 13 mm wide with a regular 3 mm thick disc, set the distance of 10 mm from the head of the screw to the end of the lug. Touching the end of the workpiece to the ledge, make the first cut, forming one wall of the groove. Then touch the head of the screw with the workpiece and form the opposite wall. Remove material between cuts in several additional passes.
Secondly, such a device allows you to file short parts of the same length. Attach it with a clamp to the longitudinal stop in front of the disk, touch the ledge with the end of the workpiece and saw off the part (bottom photo). Due to the wide gap between the blade and the longitudinal stop, sawn-off parts do not get stuck.
Additionally: Thai handwheels MB; flange nuts Mb; threaded stud Mb; screws Mbx 38 (semi-round head; screws M6xS0 and Mb’ 100 with hexagonal head; washers b mm; nuts Mb.
Cutting tools: twist drills with a diameter of 2.4, S, 6.7 and 8 mm; Forstner drill with a diameter of 19 mm.
1 PC. Buttons on Adjustable Bias Binder Presser Leg for…
These simple and very useful attachments for a handheld circular saw -
- parallel stop,
- device for perpendicular cross cutting and trimming of boards,
- guide bar for cutting sheet material,
- Alignment bars for precise placement of any guide and adjustable miter guide
With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular machine and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and it will turn into a very convenient and accurate tool.
The first part of the video.
The second part of the video.
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A manual circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.
Included with it are usually supplied devices that help the master in his work.
But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely home-made devices (as they are called), which, for all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.
Parallel stop
A regular circular fence is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful tool.
The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values that allow it to cut with a width of less than 20–25 mm. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the protective casing of the saw. But it is enough to attach a wooden block to the parallel bar of the regular stop with screws - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.
Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the bar does not allow the protective cover to close the saw blade.
Stop for transverse and angled cuts
A cross cut device is also often used. With it, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90 °. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed on it with glue or self-tapping screws. An emphasis is attached to the underside of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.
The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the fixture is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material being processed with clamps.
Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out with a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the stop on lumber of different widths.
If you install the same bar on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first one, and then also cut off part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you will get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, fixed on top. It should be noted that making a do-it-yourself protractor for a circular is a more difficult task.
saddle stop
If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then you should spend time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when sawing thick bars, for which the disc requires two cuts from different sides.
Emphasis-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.
Side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the cant in order to support the platform of the circular until the saw blade comes into contact with the cant.
The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking, corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and is pressed against the beam with clamps through the sidewalls. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the beam is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.
Guide bar
For cutting large and long sheets of lumber on the table, a long hand-made guide bar for a circular saw will be useful.
The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it should remain a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disc. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is sawn.
Edge stop
This is already a rather complicated device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work, so as not to miss the size. In fact, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always provide an even cut. Large size and desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. From it you can also make a stubborn bar.
Steps for making a stop:
- at the base, longitudinal grooves are made for the dowels;
- hardwood dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
- between the longitudinal grooves, another through groove is made to secure the thrust bar during operation;
- a hole is cut in the base for the circular saw blade;
- restrictive bars are placed on the sides of the base for the installation of a circular and clamps are provided for its secure fastening.
When installing the stop on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the desired distance and is fixed through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of the stop along the guide grooves.
There are such small devices that even a tool is shameful to consider. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.
Setting bars
The simplest detail that facilitates the installation of any stop and a marking guide is a bar of small section. Cuts are applied on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. It remains only to fix the guide.
Pull-out protection
Protection can be any bar, the width corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing and chipping.
These devices are not limited to a set of useful homemade products that make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular with their own hands. There would be a desire.
How to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand saw
If a person lives in a personal home or he has a summer cottage, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home master is not only better, but sometimes necessary. The simplest homemade guide rail for a circular saw or DIY. Unfortunately, the price of an industrially made standard of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply not affordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using a sewing machine drive or an ordinary electric drill for this. Selection of a saw blade for a circular saw blade. Disc needed for Choice of 190mm disc for. But the quality of the work and the range of operations performed almost entirely depend on the frame circular saw.
Bed design
The simplest frame of a circular saw, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8 ... 12 kilowatts, is quite affordable to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden bars. Below are several ways to make a table for a hand-held circular saw. For the drive, you can use the BOSCH GSB 19-2 electric drill (power 0.85 kilowatts) or DWT SBM-1050 (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, it is necessary to purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. Do-it-yourself guide for a hand-held circular saw. Of course, a wooden bed is not suitable for professional work, but in order to dissolve the boards, quickly saw through the bars, such a home-made design is quite enough.
In the general case, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, with manual self-production circular saw should strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the desktop will primarily be determined by the design of the attachment point of the cutting disc. Do-it-yourself guide rail for a hand-held circular saw. In self-made circular devices, either a circular disk is used, fixed directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-bearing shaft driven by an electric motor through a belt drive.
Countertop manufacturing
Read also
At the first stage of manufacturing a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing plywood sheet is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, marking is carried out from the edges of the sheet. Do-it-yourself circular devices. As a tool, a hacksaw with a fine tooth or a jigsaw is used.
A few simple tools for manual circular saw. Part 1
These are simple and very useful. fixtures for manual disk saws- parallel stop adaptation.
Miter box or trimming for manual circular saw do it yourself
VK group It's easy to make adaptation, for sawing at different angles, c.
On the underside of the sawn piece, a slot for the disk is marked. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, fixing it with your own hands in an electric drill chuck. Circular table from a manual circular saw with your own hands. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple home-made copier from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the disc attachment mechanism circular saws. The easiest way is to manually install it on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.
To give additional rigidity to the tabletop along its edges, it is desirable to fix stiffeners, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffening ribs are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the junction, which will fix the bar to the countertop along the entire junction plane.
The distance from the edge of the countertop to the bar should be 2.0 ... 4.0 centimeters.
Read also
After that, in accordance with the selected design of the drive, the support assembly of the circular disk is fixed. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. At the same time, countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.
For greater safety when working with a home-made device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover above the cutting edge of the disc.
Base design
For the safe operation of a homemade circular saws the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and solid base. To make it manually, the master's fantasy is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the dimensions of the tabletop.
Some manufacturing details
The main parameter that determines the design of a home-made "circular" is the thickness of the sawn boards. Have a circular saw A circular saw is a hand-held circular saw for sawing boards like. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to cut wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of cut, you can use and / or make a special disc lifting mechanism, but this will greatly complicate the design of the homemade product.
When choosing a drive motor, the frequency of rotation of its shaft should be taken into account. Do-it-yourself circular saw repair: how. Thus, the idea was born to make a table for a manual circular saw with your own hands. Using a belt drive, you can make a change in the number of revolutions with your own hands. If it is intended to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with a variable chuck speed, then use such a circular saw made do it yourself, will be a pleasure.