What is macro photography. How to photograph macro and close-ups

Macro photography is an almost inaccessible area for a beginner photographer on a budget, as true macro lenses are very expensive, and inexpensive macro optics have big drawbacks. For example, my Tamron (one of the most budget lenses in its class) is labeled "macro", but the minimum distance to the object in this mode is about one and a half meters. The inscription "macro" here, in my opinion, is just a publicity stunt, because from such a distance you can photograph a butterfly or something of a similar size. And it seems to me that such pictures can be called macro, only with a big stretch. Yes, large, but still not macro. Below are pictures from this lens (Tamron 70-300) in macro mode

And the next two pictures were taken with the help of macro optics, the manufacture of which we will analyze in detail in this article.

Personally, I was seriously puzzled by the “design” of a macro lens, because I really wanted to photograph the iris of the human eye, pollen on the wings of a butterfly, the “face” of a fly, snowflakes, and you never know any beauty hiding in the “macro world”. And so the desire to capture what is hidden right under our noses, plus a very limited budget, led me to this design. Helios 44-2, bought for 1000 rubles, I substituted with the reverse side to another lens mounted on the camera. And that's it, macro optics is ready, you can take pictures. I made the first option by simply wrapping the second lens on electrical tape.

But the tape blocks access to the aperture ring of the second lens. But even without fastening at all is also not an option, because all the time holding the camera with one hand and the other lens is inconvenient and not realistic in general, because you also need to press buttons, turn the tuning rings on the mechanical Helios and do many others manipulations where at least one free hand is needed. So, we make the attachment of two lenses to each other, with the possibility of placing on it also a light source (flashlight)

Materials and tools:

Two lenses (for example, Helios 44-2 and Tamron 70-300) Tamron 70-300 lens can be bought.
A piece of ABS plastic (which does not prick)
soldering iron
Files (round and half-round)
Gas hair dryer (can be purchased)
Stationery knife
Jigsaw (You can do without it)
Pliers or clamp (optional)

Step 1
We take a piece of plastic, apply a hood (such plastic nonsense that is attached to the end of the lens and closes the lens from side light) from Tamron and outlines the mounts to the lens. Then cut a hole along the drawn lines. You can do this with a jigsaw or drill small holes in a circle, whichever is more convenient for you, I did it with a soldering iron. As a result, we need to copy the hood mounts so that a piece of plastic then holds tightly in its place.

At first, I did not take into account that the plastic should not be sharp, and when I already cut a hole, I immediately split the workpiece, starting to process the edges.
The next piece of plastic I took from an old phone case. He, too, is not quite what you need, but nothing more suitable was found. Next, I repeated the procedure with a soldering iron, adjusted the hole to the shape of the mounts on the lens and processed the edges.

Step 2
We take Helios 44, unscrew the adapter ring (through this ring it is attached to my DSLR) and screw it back to front, it will be more convenient to make fasteners for it and there will be no need to seal the joint between the lenses.

We try on Helios with an inverted adapter to Tamron, on which a piece of plastic with a ready-made mount is already dressed. It turned out that the adapter ring is a millimeter larger than the diameter of the lens installed on the camera, so the whole structure does not have any gaps into which unwanted light could enter. If there are any, for example, when assembling this homemade product from other lenses, then they must be carefully insulated, otherwise there will be glare or other defects when shooting.

Step 3
We unscrew the adapter ring from the lens so that it does not interfere while we make the mounts. We warm up the edges of the plastic dressed instead of the hood, bend and press the adapter ring with them. We do this from three sides to make a “pocket” into which a ring with a screwed lens will be inserted from above. You can make such bends on all four sides so that the second lens is removed along with the mount. But I decided to use one of the sides (top) to place a flashlight on it.

Step 4
In our design for macro photography, the focal zone will be 20-30 mm from the edge of the second lens, that is, we will shoot straight at point-blank range. For example, when shooting a human eye, the lens practically touches the eyelashes. Therefore, the built-in flash, like the shoe flash, simply does not hit the subject and additional light is needed to illuminate the area directly in front of the lens.

I use a bright flashlight with a movable mount to be able to adjust the direction of the light in the illuminated area. Subsequently, after tests, the flashlight was extended even closer to the edge of the lens by a few centimeters.

Conclusion

Of course, this "macro optics" has drawbacks. For example, without additional light or bright sun, such a design lacks lighting, plus the camera electronics in auto modes incorrectly evaluate the amount of light and select incorrect settings. Although, in my personal opinion, the only serious drawback is the small depth of field (depth of field) when shooting flat objects such as snowflakes, this does not affect the pictures in any way, but when shooting voluminous objects, I already want to increase this figure. And it increases only in direct proportion to the decrease in photosensitivity due to the closing of the aperture.
But such a macro device does not require money if you have two lenses, it gives an excellent magnification better than any macro rings (which, by the way, also cost money), allows you to look into the “macro world” and take pictures there. It seems to me that the pros outweigh the cons.

It remains only to set the convenient shooting mode on the camera (I shot on a completely manual one), choose the appropriate settings for the camera and both lenses, and voila, we get such interesting pictures that not even all serious photographers can boast of.

Creative success to you!

Macro photography is shooting at very close range, which captures details that are not visible to the human eye. This is a complex type of photography that requires you to know the basics of macro photography and have the appropriate equipment at your disposal.

The most popular subjects for macro photography are flowers, insects, human eyes and any other highly detailed small objects.

Macro camera

When choosing a camera for macro photography, you need to remember the following recommendations:

• The camera must have special settings for the macro photo mode;
• A digital camera should have a good macro enable program. It is usually triggered by a disk selector;
• A reflex film camera is better for macro photography. It is even better if the camera is not electronic, but mechanical. Only macro photography with a DSLR allows you to ideally position the frame and evaluate the focus of the lens. It also makes it possible to use special rings that are installed between the lock and the camera lens.

Varieties of rings for macro photography

• Reversing (reversible) ring. Inexpensive and easy to use device that allows you to work in macro mode. Before starting work, you need to wind it up instead of a light filter and attach the lens to the carcass with the reverse side. Advantages: low price, compact, does not degrade image quality. Minuses: Macro zoom cannot be changed, automatic functions do not work;
• Furs for macro photography. Presented in the form of an "accordion", which allows you to increase the distance between the lens and the camera. Advantages: Stepless zooming, photo quality does not deteriorate, no need to remove the lens to zoom. Minuses: automatic functions do not work, the aperture ratio of the lens decreases as the object being photographed approaches, dimensions are not quite convenient;
• Extension ring set. Their work is similar to the work of bellows, but in this case it is possible to change the image scale only in steps. Advantages: Image quality does not deteriorate and the camera's automatic functions continue to work. Minuses: the lens aperture decreases, you have to remove the lens to change the scale, high cost;
• Macro lens set. The lenses are screwed onto the filter thread, so there is no need to remove the lens. Advantages: no aperture loss, compact, low price, automatic functions work, can be used with a detachable lens. Minuses: Image quality deteriorates, especially when cheap lenses are used.

macro lens

A close-up lens with a close focus distance and enhanced resolution for sharp, high-contrast images. If you are not really into macro photography, it makes sense to think carefully about whether you need a special lens, because portrait and landscape photography is quite problematic with it. Macro objects are expensive.

Armed with the following tips and tricks, you can take amazing macro photography right at home.

• Focus on scene-important objects manually;
• The flash during macro photography will help to see very small details in more detail;
• To prevent the effect of blur, fix inanimate objects that are in motion with a regular clothespin or with a professional macro tripod;
• Use high saturation color film with medium speed;
• Try to avoid the temptation to shoot at maximum magnification, as this significantly reduces the depth of field, most of the image looks blurry and fuzzy;
• When shooting against the sun, use a lens hood;
• Use protective filters. They will protect an expensive lens from pollen and other particles;
• You should not engage in macro photography in cloudy weather, since in macro photography the play of light is important, almost the main thing;
• Every part of the day is an opportunity for good macro photography. Use it! Sunny noon will open the macroworld in all its splendor in front of the camera, the sunset will make it possible to shoot in backlight or oblique light. In the early morning, macro photography of insects is most accessible, since insects are poorly mobile;
• Try to keep the background neutral and solid. To do this, you just need to change the shooting angle or put a cloth, backpack, jacket;
• To create artificial dew, it is enough to lubricate the surface with glycerin and sprinkle with water. A beautiful effect is created when shooting with a Star diffraction filter;
• Use a cable release, the self-timer function can replace it. Using the shutter button may result in vibration that will spoil the photo;

Macro mode in inexpensive cameras

Some cheap digital cameras also have a macro mode. The button to turn it on is usually marked as an icon in the form of a flower. Of course, professional macro shooting with such a camera cannot be achieved, but in this mode you can get much closer to the subject, which is impossible to do in standard mode.

Conclusion

Macro photography is a fairly complex branch of the art of photography. Before you do it, get the necessary list of equipment. Otherwise, all your experiments will inevitably end up with indistinct photographs. And armed with the secrets of macro photography described in this article, your pictures will become much better.

Spring is a wonderful time for amateur photographers. The bright sun, rich colors, flowers bloom, long-legged girls in short skirts walk. Take a picture of everything you have your eye on! Personally, as a married person, now I am more and more interested in travel photography and all sorts of flowers.

Recently, a work colleague bought a Nikon 105mm f / 2.8G Micro macro lens for his household. I took the opportunity to test: I brought my trusty D800 to take some shots too. In general, I love macro photography, it seems interesting to me to look at the everyday things around us from such an unusual angle.

It is interesting to play with a macro lens, although I think it is unreasonable to spend 45 thousand rubles on such fun. But you can join the world of macro photography for much less money with the help of devices called macro rings. I've had these in my bins for a year now, and last weekend I blew the dust of centuries off them and took them to the village.

As every photographer, even taking his very first steps in this exciting activity, knows, any lens has a minimum distance to the subject at which the picture will be clear. If you try to photograph your favorite cat point-blank, you get muddy garbage. The minimum focal length is written in the specifications for the lens, usually 30-40 centimeters. To get around this annoying limitation, you need a macro ring.

A macro ring is an ordinary hollow cylinder that is installed between the lens and the matrix, changing the parameters of the optical system. The greater the distance between the lens and the sensor, the closer the lens can be to the subject. This is how macrophotographs are obtained with a regular lens. Macro rings are sold in a set of 3 pieces so that this distance can be varied depending on the situation. Attach all 3 pieces at once and get a portable microscope. More expensive macro rings have contact pads to support the autofocus of the lens, but in macro photography you often have to focus manually (or rather, with your feet or back), because autofocus does not understand exactly what you want to photograph. So I took the simplest rings. Which ones - in this case it does not matter at all, they are, by and large, all the same.

However, do not rush to the nearest photo shop for macro rings in the hope of becoming a cool macro photographer quickly and cheaply. You will have to face a number of inconveniences that you may not notice for years in ordinary photography.

First. You will have to photograph exclusively in manual mode, that is, in M ​​mode. If you still do not know how to photograph by manually controlling aperture and shutter speed, then first learn this, and then take on macro photography.

Second. Unlike a macro lens, macro rings reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. In order for the photo not to be too dark, you will have to increase the shutter speed and raise the ISO. You may need a tripod so that the pictures are not blurry at slow shutter speeds.

Third. The depth of field of the frame at a small focusing distance for SLR cameras tends to zero. Increasing the depth of field helps to reduce the aperture, which again entails a decrease in the amount of light entering the matrix.

By the way, I was recently asked here why the background is blurred on SLR cameras, and when photographing with an ordinary soap dish or smartphone, the entire frame is sharp. Like, expensive DSLRs can’t do what smartphones allow, so a DSLR is money thrown away. This conclusion only emphasizes the incompetence of a citizen who poorly studied the topic of optics in physics lessons at school. A brief explanation, without diving into technical aspects, is as follows: the lens is selected for a specific matrix. On a full-frame camera, the f/2.8 lens aperture will give exactly f/2.8, since the crop factor is 1. And your smartphone has a tiny matrix, say, 5 times smaller than that of a full-frame DSLR. And its f/2.8 aperture will match the f/14 aperture on a full-frame DSLR. The more the aperture is closed, the greater the depth of field. There is nothing to say about a blurry background with such a diaphragm.

Fourth. The smaller the aperture, the more noticeable the particles of dirt on the matrix. Before rushing into the maelstrom of macro photography, you should take care of cleaning the matrix. Well, or mess around later in Photoshop. Our man sometimes has strange notions about economy. Citizens like to spend 100 thousand rubles on a camera, and then "save on matches" and clean the matrix themselves. Personally, I recommend spending another 3 thousand rubles and taking the camera to an authorized service center for cleaning.

But enough theory, it's time to start practicing. For my macro experiments, I took an ordinary inexpensive Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D lens. I screwed the middle macro ring between it and the camera, set the ISO higher, twisted the aperture to the minimum available f / 22, and that's what happened.

It is desirable, of course, to take a lens that can cover the aperture at least up to f / 32, and even better up to f / 64. Then more details will come into focus, the percentage of successful shots will be higher. But I don’t have such a thing in my household, I use what I have.

Macro photography requires a lot of light in the frame. If the sky is cloudy, then it is already advisable to use a special ring flash, which is needed specifically for macro. It is attached to the lens and highlights the spider bugs dear to your heart. Spending on a ring flash is worth it if you decide to seriously dedicate yourself to macro photography, otherwise just wait for a sunny day. As you can see, there is no urgent need for expensive photographic equipment to get a good macro photo. Macro rings allow you to take quite decent photos. Happy photography!

Other photos can be viewed

Why is there an article about macro

Macro photography is an interesting topic for any photographer, although not all photographers shoot macro. Several readers of the site asked a question about choosing a camera that, among other things, would have the ability to macro. Specific models were named, from which it was proposed to choose the “necessary camera”. Following my principle, I did not name the models, since the user himself must choose the “needed” camera for his own good. But, of course, he gave advice, and since it may be of interest to other beginners, I decided to post a short article about macro on the site. You are reading it right now :-) I must say right away that this material in no way claims to be an extremely complete and detailed presentation of all the information about macro photography, it is rather a very short course on this topic. And if you want, the continuation of the article "How to choose a camera". If anyone is unclear about the terms DOF, aperture, and others, I advise you to read the page "Photography Tutorial", there is enough detail and examples. And the page is the most useful on this site: remember, the site is still for beginners. For everyone else, everything else can be safely not read :-) Of course, except for those who are interested in macro photography and macro photography.

What is macro photography

So, macro photography is the close-up photography of small objects. The smaller the subject is shot in the entire frame, the steeper the macro :-) if the object has, for example, a size of 1 cm - both in the frame and in reality. Here, "frame" refers to the size of the photosensitive element (film, matrix). Some do not agree with the definition of a macro scale of 1: 1, and argue that macro photography starts from a small increase in 1: 5 (one to five - 5 cm of the object fit in 1 cm of the frame) to a magnification of 20: 1 (0.05 cm fit in 1 cm of the frame). object). Still others specify that there is close-up photography (up to 1:2), macro photography (from 1:2 to 10:1) and microphotography from 10:1 ... In general, there are a lot of opinions, but it’s useless ... and if you want more and understand the sense, then you can look at the picture on the left and try to determine what scale is here ... :-)

In all this macro-variety, they forget about the definition of a frame: "frame", "frame size", "a centimeter of an object in a frame". In fact, we have the following in the frame: matrices of different cameras have completely different sizes, and films too (35 mm, or, for example, widescreen). In addition, the "centimeter of an object in the frame" depends on the focal length of the lens, on the minimum focusing distance, on the possibility of zooming in from the negative, or zooming in a digital editor ... Macro photography, whatever you say, is a really difficult concept. Therefore, it is best to understand by "macro - frame" not the dimensions of the matrix, or the negative, but the SIZE of the FINAL PRINT on photographic paper. Those. if a 2 cm bug fills a 10 x 15 cm image in height, then its magnification is 5 times! (10/2=5, that's 5:1). If the quality of the image allows printing this bug up to the size of a photograph of 20x30 cm (in height), then the increase is tenfold, i.e. 10:1! And if you can print in full length, then fifteen times - 15: 1 ... That's what real macro photography and macro photography are! In general, do not bother yourself with nonsense with the size of the matrices :-)

Personally, I think that macro is when you see in the picture what the eye does not see in reality. Do not attach great importance to all this. In fact, there is no clear macro / non-macro border, and in general, the value of the picture, first of all, determines the plot, and not the size in the frame. However, macro photography at high magnifications is able to show on the picture (or screen) not only visible, but also details and structure of the object that are indistinguishable to the naked eye! This is interesting not only for amateur photographers, but also for scientists - for active use in various fields of science and technology for research purposes. I don’t know what they are stealing in Skolkovo now, but in the USSR macro photography was widely used by science, and scientists and engineers too :-)

In any case, of course, I will have to show examples of macro shots :-) Here, for example, a spider and a flower. This is a shallow macro, or if you prefer, just close-up shots. How much increase is needed here, everyone decides for himself.

For beginners, first of all, the question arises - which cameras are most suitable for macro photography. I will say right away that film cameras have the worst macro performance. Much better, oddly enough, for most digital compacts. There is a separate conversation about DSLRs, which will be discussed below. As a rule, DSLRs with a kit lens in macro photography are much worse than many compacts. And further. Ceteris paribus, a large number of notorious megapixels here will be more a plus than a minus - this will increase the additional cropping (zooming) options on the computer. The downside of this digital zoom is the print size limitation, which is not critical if your photos are not planned to be larger than 10 x 15 cm.

Compact and macro

A small matrix, in addition to all known shortcomings, still has advantages. The first obvious is the small dimensions of the camera body and the built-in lens (unless, of course, it is an ultrazoom). The compact is compact due to the compactness of the compact matrix :-) The second is not so obvious - these are relatively good opportunities for macro photography. For some compacts, they are simply wonderful (for an amateur level), for others they are not very good, and for others they are completely weak. However, neither the minimum focusing distance, nor the size of the sensor, nor the proud inscription "macro", nor any other characteristics of the camera will let you determine the capabilities of the compact in macro photography. The easiest way is to shoot an ordinary school ruler: the fewer divisions fit into the frame, the larger they will look!

It is clearly seen that only 22 mm fit into the frame. Such an increase is a very decent indicator for a compact (Nikon Coolpix 5400, produced in 2003, it still removes this "junk"!). It was possible to achieve such a macro (oddly enough) at a wide angle, so distortion in the form of distortion is evident. However, I failed to shoot at a long focus with the same outstanding magnification even after numerous attempts - at different focal lengths, from different focusing distances and various tricks to highlight the object. Thus, it was not possible to apply a long focus and correct the distortion. Since the school line is a very undemanding fashion model, I don’t consider the picture to be a complete failure, and 22 mm in the frame is impressive.

Here are some more examples of macro that were shot with this camera. A focal length of 53 mm was used here, so the distortion is no longer very noticeable. Of course, shooting coins for a catalog does not require such magnifications as in the picture on the right, which is a crop of the picture on the left, enlarged in the editor due to the "excess of megapixels" :-) Yes, at that time 5 megapixels was very much! :-)

This coin is quite large - 35 mm in diameter, so it was not difficult to take it in the entire frame. This compact could take 22 mm into the frame, not 35, so even the potential remained. If you want to shoot coins, badges, badges, medals and other small things, a camera capable of focusing from such a minimum distance from which you can capture at least 35-40 mm in the entire frame is quite suitable for you. Given the increase in the editor, macro for such a shooting will be more redundant than enough.

Macro photography with a compact camera is both enjoyable and beginner-friendly: the compact's large depth of field makes doing this sort of thing easier than with a DSLR. In a DSLR, you have to hold down the aperture strongly to get the same depth of field, which means using a tripod more often. However, if you are fond of macro photography, you probably cannot do without a tripod. Some of them are specially designed for shooting from awkward positions, so don't take the first thing you see. It's not just about the tripod :-)

By the way, any purchase should be made when and only when you are sure that you personally really need the thing, you can’t do without it (and life has failed), and not just because it seems to fit. The more we buy meaningless, or not quite necessary things, the faster prices rise, the wallet empties faster, and shopping delivers less joy. For those who are sick of shopping and loans!

Compact macro output :) The problem is not that all compacts (even modern ones) cannot magnify like that (this is obvious), but that there is a huge pile of models on the counter and nowhere is it indicated how well it shoots macro, but on the badge (tag!) the seller does not indicate his professional suitability. The MACRO inscription on the body of the compact only indicates the presence of the "macro" mode in the camera, and the minimum focusing distance will only tell about this distance, no more. And even together they will not tell anything about the possibility of a good increase!

Have you already figured out how to choose a camera with macro capabilities? That's right - go to the store with a ruler!

SLR and macro

What is the best SLR camera for macro photography? Here the comrade bent, it all depends on the lens, many will say. Someone will add that a cropped DSLR (with an APS-C matrix) is somewhat more suitable for macro photography than with a full frame (36x24 mm). Yes, there is such an argument. We have already mentioned a large number of megapixels: macro photography from additional magnification can rather win than lose. No, guys, all this is great, but the best carcass in this regard (a camera without a lens) will have a Live View mode (viewing the future frame on the display in real time) and a rotary screen! Otherwise, to take a picture of a fly agaric, you have to lie down on the ground in order to aim at this beautiful toadstool through the viewfinder :)
With a swivel display, it is enough to put the camera next to such a low-growing object and focus while squatting. By the way, the fly agaric has such a bright color not to warn of danger, but, on the contrary, to attract the attention of photographers, or completely desperate drug addicts :-))

And yet, in macro photography, it is not the camera that plays the decisive role, but the lens. I remind you that we are not talking about a compact, where the optics and the camera are a single whole. The capabilities of a SLR camera in macro photography are very dependent on the lens. I have been repeatedly asked the question of what an inexpensive “for beginners” lens can do in a macro. Probably meant a whale with typical characteristics of 18-55 / 3.5-5.6. I didn’t have a whale at hand, I shot a dandelion (photo below) with an ordinary wide-angle (16-45 / 4). Such a wide-angle is not intended for macro photography (it has completely different functions), in any case it is inexpensive optics (he pointed out for those who are sure that ANY expensive lens can perfectly shoot anything: a portrait, a landscape, and even a deep macro :- )) and, of course, this is by no means a specialized macro lens.

The best answer to the question will not be a story about the capabilities of an inexpensive lens, but a display of pictures. However, it is worth recalling that different lenses have different macro capabilities, which can depend on the focal length, the minimum focusing distance (the smaller the better), and even on the ability to deal with distortion at such distances. Therefore, it is not necessary to consider the example I have given as typical for all optics of this class. This is just a specific example, a specific lens. You have already seen the fly agaric, now on the left is a photograph of a dandelion, on the right is a crop - an enlarged "to all pixels" part of the image. How much such a macro can arrange - decide for yourself:

EGF 60 mm, aperture 11, shutter speed 1/60.

I specifically indicated the aperture value for the picture. Why is the aperture clamped right up to 11? In macro photography, the depth of field is usually very small, so the hole is covered to increase the depth of field. This is especially true for shooting non-flat objects, and in our example, a dandelion is a three-dimensional ball. And if you open the aperture here, not only the background would be blurred, but also most of the dandelion itself ... By the way, this poor fellow (who lived right up to October!) is no more - the next day he was destroyed by early snow (October 12, 2009!) , so it's sort of a historical photo :-)

Macro photography: fixtures

Macro can be shot using various attachments: extension rings, retractable bellows, wrapping rings (reversing macro adapters), attachment lenses, 2 lenses connected by a reversing macro ring, or a special macro lens. For huge magnifications (10:1 or more), bellows or extension rings are best suited, but this inevitably reduces the aperture ratio and reduces the resolution of the lens. We will not consider such a macro in detail.

Devices with sliding furs are not only vintage.
Macro camera in the studio!

So, the possibilities in macro photography depend on the lens, various devices and ... resourcefulness. For a DSLR, it is best, of course, to have a special macro lens (as a rule, it gives a 1: 1 magnification and a high-quality picture), but it costs a lot. Even inexpensive rings that lengthen the focal length cost several thousand rubles. With the help of such rings, you can lengthen the focal length of an ordinary portrait lens and shoot quite a decent macro. But if you do not do macro photography regularly, but sometimes you want to shoot, then you can use an inexpensive macro lens without using a macro lens.

These lenses are simple magnifying glasses that allow shooting at shorter distances than the lens allows; they are light, compact, fairly inexpensive and provide acceptable image quality for the amateur.

Such a macro lens is threaded onto a regular lens like a regular light filter. It reduces the minimum focusing distance, brings the image closer, and in fact, significantly enlarges it. The main advantage of a macro lens is its low price compared to a macro lens, as well as the ability to do macro photography with a camera with non-replaceable lenses, for example, a compact (if there is an appropriate thread). Well, of course, happiness is achievable for a reason, but due to a small drop in resolution at the edges of the frame :)

Below we see what magnifications can be achieved by using a macro lens on a conventional lens. The latter was played by Pentax 50 / 1.4, for which macro photography is an ideal desirable, but completely unattainable. The minimum focusing distance for this fifty dollars is 45 cm, what kind of macro is there ...

On the left we see the result of the lens itself, and on the right - with a 10 diopter macro lens wound on it, kindly provided by the store www.spbzone.ru. This "magnifier" made it possible to bring the lens much closer to the ruler, and now 150 "linear" mm increased to 36 for the entire frame. But this is an inexpensive glass, so those who are concerned about distortion at the edges of the frame can evaluate the picture for themselves by downloading the full size (about 7 Mb).

Two macro lenses can be used simultaneously to zoom in on an object. For example, a pair of +2 and +3 powers corresponds to one lens with +5 powers. In this case, the strongest glass must be installed first, but more than 2 macro lenses should not be used at the same time - due to the deterioration of image clarity.

What else is suitable for macro photography? For it, you can easily use ... a second lens. Here's what might happen. On the left are coins, on the right are their crops - enlarged "to all pixels" parts of the image.

1. 10 kopecks

2. Crop

1. 1 kopeck

2. Crop

This darkened from time to time, battered and scratched Soviet penny, which at that time could buy a box of matches, was patched up with no less old Helios, and ... with an inverted native fixed lens (50 / f1.4) on a digital SLR Pentax. Those. this lens was turned back to the coin, and facing Helios. Craftsmen “usually” glue such shifters (since far from all lenses are suitable for connection with reversible macro rings due to different thread diameters), but I took pity on the technique, using it “as is” (without a reversing ring) - just gently leaning the lenses on the front of each other to a friend :-) Children under 16 should not do such experiments, but you can see the result!

If you do not consider this an ultra-deep macro, then for an amateur macro shot it will be quite worthy. By the way, the Soviet penny did not suffer from the crisis at all. As it was, it remained 15 mm in diameter :-) The current penny has suffered more - you can’t buy anything with it at all (as, indeed, for 10 kopecks, and for a ruble!), And the size also let us down: a penny it is already 15.5, and 10 kopecks have 17.5 mm. There's nothing to be done, both prices and sizes are growing - inflation!

For macro photography, a macro lens is the most convenient. How is it different from the usual? A closer focusing distance, elimination of distortion when shooting at close distances and an inverted optical design. Yes, I almost forgot, he can still take great close-up pictures! Up to a scale of 1:1, which is much better than most compacts, and generally any cameras with the "macro" function, can do. As a rule, macro lenses have a fixed focal length from 35 mm to 150 (there are more), and aperture of 2.8. The most typical of them are macro 50/2.8 and macro 100/2.8. Lenses are easy to recognize by name: Canon 100/2.8 USM macro, Nikon 105 mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor, Pentax Macro 100 mm f/2.8, Sony 100 mm f2.8 Macro; there are similar macro lenses from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and other manufacturers of photographic equipment.

Let's see the characteristics of one of the typical representatives
Macro: SMC Pentax D FA MACRO 100mm f/2.8 WR

Macro lens SMC Pentax D FA MACRO 100mm f/2.8 WR with lens hood.

The word is indicated so as not to be confused with the usual standard fifty dollars and telephoto lenses that have a similar focal length. Let's take the Pentax D FA MACRO 100 mm f/2.8 WR discussed above. We have one test: the old school ruler:

That's all the macro that I was able to pull out at a minimum focusing distance of 30 cm! Not much. As you can see, the same amount as in the compact got into the frame, even a little more - 23 mm. What's the point??! What is the point of taking a lens that costs significantly more than many compacts?

1. If you want to shoot only rulers, of course, there is no point.
2. Not every compact will give a full frame of only 22 mm, like the aforementioned old Nikon Coolpix from 2003. Not every.
3. The minimum focusing distance for that Nikon is 1 cm, i.e. macro photography was carried out almost close to the ruler.
The latter means only one thing - you won’t be able to remove a butterfly, dragonfly and other living creatures from such a distance - they won’t let you in. You can only shoot static objects, and even then, if you can get close to them.
4. In addition, the macro lens minimizes distortion in the macro zone. The 100mm focal length also does not contribute to distortion - all lines are parallel, as they should be.

A long-focus macro lens allows you to photograph at a sufficient distance from the subject, which can be useful when shooting insects, birds and other tenacious little things. In general, for photographing wildlife, it is better to use long-focus lenses - regardless of the ability in macro photography, and it is more convenient to take subject photography on a table with short-focus lenses. Or even compact, especially if it shows good results in macro. Now let's see what you can shoot with the Pentax 100mm f/2.8 macro lens, except for the rulers:

EGF 150 mm, aperture 8, shutter speed 1/125.

Against a very colorful background, the main subject of the shooting - a bumblebee - does not look very good, in this regard, the picture on the right looks more advantageous.

A bumblebee is an insect related to a bee (earth bee) with a thick hairy body, 10-15 mm long, sometimes up to 35 mm. Bumblebees are distributed all over the world. They live in burrows that are kept perfectly clean. Their families are not large, usually in such a family there are from 50 to 400 insects. Bumblebees are the sole pollinators of some leguminous plants, such as clover. The number is declining, they are included in the Red Book, which still does not save from extermination.

The main danger for them is the activity of the most terrible enemy of all life on Earth - a person who, for the sake of money, power, or unhealthy ambitions, destroys everyone and everything indiscriminately, even his own species and his own habitat. Keep the bumblebee at least in the photo.

This photograph of an earthen bee was taken from an even better angle than the first two. The macro shot turned out to be quite interesting, and the bumblebee looks like a kind of fantastic alien. With such a short shooting distance and a large volume, the aperture had to be clamped to f13.

The best focusing distance for maximum magnification is the minimum. The above MACRO 100mm f/2.8 is capable of focusing from 30 cm instead of 1 meter like similar 100mm telephoto lenses. A macro lens with a focal length of 50 mm has a minimum focusing distance of 19 cm, while a standard fifty-fifty is 45 cm. You already understood that in macro photography, to increase the depth of field, you need to significantly stop the lens (stopping the aperture) - especially if the subject of photography is voluminous. Also, don't forget to use a tripod or flash when you increase the shutter speed. When using a tripod in the camera (or lens), turn off the Image Stabilizer.

Here's another interesting photo taken with a 100mm macro lens in somewhat unusual conditions. I filmed this stowaway somewhere between Ryazan and Tver. On the train, of course, because, I hope, praying mantises do not live in these places. The stowaway hare turned out to be an ordinary praying mantis, but since I am not a conductor (and, moreover, not an auditor), the case ended not with a fine, but simply with a mini-photography. More specifically macro.

The praying mantis is a master of disguise and changes its coloration to its environment like a chameleon. Moreover, he knows how not only to mix with plants, but also to imitate them, pretending to be knots, leaves, or grass stalks. Sitting on the ceiling under the ceiling of the car, he tried to take on the color of the ceiling (well, not the shape!), But I still truncated him and took it off - no, not from the train, and not from the ceiling, but on the camera. The difficulty of macro photography was not only in the height of the ceiling, poor lighting, the shaking of the car and the inability to use a tripod, but also the hostility of the passengers, whom I suddenly blocked the way down the corridor to the toilet in the evening :-)

In nature, the praying mantis is a master of ambush, able to stay motionless for a long time, merging with the foliage and lie in wait for another victim. This predator is a master of hand-to-hand combat, its front legs-paws have spikes, with its paws it grabs its prey, squeezes them and holds the victim, eating it alive. But in another case, things are a little different. Immediately after mating, the female praying mantis can devour the male: either you really want to eat, or you have a high need for protein for the development of eggs. Sometimes, even during mating, she tears off her partner's head (which, however, does not prevent the latter from finishing what he started before dying).

Until now, it is not known what morality and virtue the Lord was guided by, creating creatures that devour each other alive (and this nightmarish world). Alas, a continuous and bloody food chain, the end result of which is always death ... Optimists should hope that this world was not a deliberate intention of the creator, but just a mistake in writing source codes, and / or the lack of a good antivirus and competent technical support

Below is a nicer photo taken with a macro lens. Butterflies are always beautiful when they are already butterflies, not caterpillars ... It is not known whether beauty will save the world, but the ancient Greeks considered this lepidopteran insect a symbol of the immortality of the soul, which was depicted as a girl Psyche with butterfly wings.

The picture shows hives - one of the most common butterflies, which is settled from Europe to Japan, from Asia to northern latitudes. It is found everywhere in Russia, except for the regions of the Far North. The butterfly got its name from its favorite fodder plant - nettle, on which it lays its eggs, and where its larvae - caterpillars feed. Urticaria flies from June to autumn (and after wintering in spring). In central Russia, already in April, you can see the first butterflies. This beauty was shot in August at aperture f13 :) But such a foreshortening and an oblique shooting angle led to the fact that the object being shot was blurry in some parts even at this aperture. Nothing can be done, sometimes there is not enough sharpness for everyone and everything, and here it is important to focus on the most important thing. If, in general, macro photography creates positive emotions, then the picture is a success.

It was mentioned above that macro photography is when you see what the eye does not see in reality. Once such an opportunity presented itself to me. Somewhere I happened to read that a sample on gold in the Russian Federation depicts the profile of the head of a certain “lady in a kokoshnik”, next to it there should be a jeweler’s branded squiggle and, in fact, the sample number itself. I got interested, took an engagement ring, bought in 1992, directed a magnifying glass, and decided to make out. But, apparently, the magnifying glass was weak, or I am blind: I can hardly see the test, but what is depicted on it is absolutely. Well, very small! I twirled the ring this way and that, and put on glasses, and directed the light - it was useless. You can’t see a damn thing, even gouge out your eye, even try gold on your tooth :)

This is where macro photography comes in handy. What was my surprise when I put a macro lens on the camera and saw a brand from the distant USSR ...

1/90 s, f13, iso-100, focal length 150 mm EGF.

An indicator of the quality of gold is its sample, i.e. percentage of pure precious metal. 585 sample is 58.5% gold and 41.5% additives from other metals, such as copper. No, you have not been swindled, for this, see the test! But why then gold impurities?

Just with the help of additives, the alloy becomes harder: alas, pure gold (999) is very soft, it can be easily scratched, deformed, it is not suitable for creating jewelry. Therefore, it is thanks to alloys with other metals that a fairly solid product is obtained.

For this, copper and, for example, nickel are used (more nickel is “white gold”, more copper is “red gold”), other metals can be used instead of nickel: silver, zinc, palladium. You can organize any shades of color, up to greenish! Palladium is used, as a rule, in more expensive products, for example, in 750 or 986 samples. The latter is quite soft, it is hardly worth wearing such jewelry.

375 and 500 samples are considered much more durable, but they, of course, are less valued and, by the way, are more susceptible to oxidation (especially 375 sample: the less gold in the alloy, the more corrosion.) That is why the 585 sample is widespread, since it has the best price/quality ratio/strength/corrosion resistance:-)

How many people died for these properties of the despicable metal...

A few years ago on this page I wrote the following: "Still, I would like to see the current "lady in a kokoshnik" close-up. So if anyone has it, send it. It's easier to send a ring, but still a photograph is cheaper!" And just now (Feb. 2017) they finally sent me this lady, who can be seen without damage to vision. Macro photography was done on a Canon 6D full-frame camera with a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM macro lens.

Shutter speed 1/60; aperture f10; ISO-10000; focal length 100 mm.

The lady in the kokoshnik is good! But it is highly stylized, the Soviet star and the numbers are more realistically carved by the master. Feel the classic approach to art!

The golden lady was photographed hand-held, so the ISO was set to 10,000 units. to achieve the desired aperture and acceptable shutter speed. A full-frame Canon keeps noise even at such a high sensitivity, the grain became noticeable only after I maximized the central part of the picture sent to me in the editor. Enlarge the picture. If you look at the ring as a whole, then the noise is not visible at all. Still, for static shooting, you should use a tripod or other camera fixation, then ISO can be set to a minimum.

I want to say a little about the Canon EF 100mm f / 2.8L Macro IS USM macro lens, although the famous L-series does not need recommendations (only money!) Canon already has several macro lenses of the 100 / 2.8 class, but this one has a stabilizer. The characteristics are approximately similar to the table above, but there are differences. It's not just the presence of a good image stabilizer (Pentax, for example, has it in the camera). But in this lens, you can still switch the autofocus range: full, from 50 cm to infinity, and a range from 30 to 50 cm (macro zone), which eliminates unnecessary movements of the ultrasonic motor and makes it easier to take pictures using tracking focus in automatic mode.

This is very useful for macro photography of action scenes. Try manually focusing on a flying dragonfly or an aquatic bumblebee!

Can a macro lens be used for portraits? I've been asked this question many times by amateur photographers. And what problems - please!

Full-length portrait taken with a macro lens :-)
Breakfast in the forest.

Shutter speed 1/125; aperture f4; ISO-100; focal length 150 mm.
flash is off.

What is the difference between a macro lens and a portrait lens? Lens pattern is different. In macro, everything is sacrificed for high sharpness and small MDF. This does not mean that they cannot take pictures of people, I see nothing wrong with the sharpness of the details of a full-length portrait. Of course, a portrait painter is better suited for this activity, but it all depends on the goals and objectives. Yes, no one will like skin with sharp pores, wrinkles and hairs, women in the first place, but, sorry, you won’t shoot macro from women from a distance of 30 cm ... :-))

The most important thing to always remember is that a great plot and a winning angle will not spoil any lens.

How to shoot macro?

Very simple :-) Since macro photography is performed from short distances (the distance depends on the focal length of the lens), then pick up the camera, bring it as close as possible to the subject, so as to capture as much of the object as possible in the frame. Do this for as long as the camera is able to focus. A typical beginner mistake is that the camera does not focus. So they brought it too close, and the shooting distance turned out to be less than the minimum focusing distance. Move the camera back a little and try again.

Then mount the camera on a tripod and frame more accurately, and try to cover the aperture as much as possible, otherwise the shallow depth of field can get in the way (in macro, the depth of field is so small that it sometimes even applies to compacts). If the camera is unable to focus, then increase the aperture, or move the camera back, changing the distance to the object. In a DSLR, actively use manual focus, incl. moving back and forth the subject itself, or the camera (if the object does not allow moving itself!).

Sometimes the camera cannot focus due to lack of light. If macro photography takes place at home, add light, don't be stingy! Up to highlighting with a flashlight, or LEDs. A low-contrast background (or subject) can also make focusing difficult. In addition, at close distances, a long lens often interferes with the flash of a camera, blocking the light, then the flash is used by reflecting light from it onto an object using a reflector, for example, a piece of paper. We kill one more target last: a flash in the forehead from a short distance can illuminate the object.

For SLR cameras in macro photography, a special ring flash can also be used, which is mounted around the lens. And it is better to use telephoto lenses (it all depends on the distance to the subject of photography), or extension rings, and, of course, macro lenses.

Macro rules

Never shoot in windy conditions. Even a light breath imperceptibly shakes a leaf, a flower, or a bug on that flower. The bug will be smeared.

If macro photography takes place at home, then the selection of the background and modeling of light is the direct responsibility of the photographer (and not the camera, as some people think). The background should be uniform, without small contrasting details that distract attention from our flower.

Do not shoot with flash when using a tripod. The flash kills the volume, but ... sometimes it helps a lot! In any case, well-found lighting makes the flash unnecessary, but solves problems perfectly, even if you have an ordinary dog ​​rose instead of roses for your beloved woman :) Therefore, look for mother-in-law's light, paint with light!

Macro photography of flowers

Shutter speed 1/60; aperture f6.7; ISO-100; focal length 150 mm in EGF; flash off!

This is not even macro photography of flowers, rather, a close-up performed by a macro lens. With it, you can shoot ordinary objects in the same way as with a regular staffer.

Always use manual focus, not auto. Autofocus in macro photography is a waste of time. And while the lens is trying in vain to focus either on the distant plan or on the near one, the object itself can brazenly fly away right before your eyes. Well, unless, of course, pinned to the flower with a pin or glue :)

Clamp the aperture to obtain the desired depth of field. The numbers 11, 16, 22 and, if the lens allows it, 32, are often the most popular in macro. In a compact, everything usually ends with f8 (and there is no need for more). If a covered aperture generates a slow shutter speed, use a tripod.

Shutter speed 1/8; aperture f13; ISO-100; focal length 150 mm in EGF; flash off.

Macro photography is for the patient. Select the desired angle in advance, set the camera on a tripod in advance, focus in advance at the desired point. Sometimes you should do this before the arrival of the bumblebee, and not after. I understand everything, but otherwise macro is not your hobby.

Always use a tripod for macro photography of static subjects. And the miracle will happen: you will be able to shoot at the slowest shutter speeds without fear of blurring. It is best to have a tripod with the ability to use a low vantage point.

The words in the text "never" and "always" should be understood as "if the situation allows". This ultimate truth is applicable in any game, in any business, in any life situation, and in macro photography it is always a mandatory rule and even a postulate :)

In general, keep it up. Macro photography is the lot of the patient and diligent, but it can captivate in such a way that many begin to plunge into it with their heads, up to studying the habits of insects and spiders in encyclopedias and specialized literature. And here already my site, alas, will not help in any way!

Macro photography attracts many photographers with the ability to capture the tiniest objects and show this beauty to the viewer. Today we will tell you about the camera settings that will allow you to take good macro photos.

Macro photography can take a lot of time and effort to master, but the result is worth the effort. To begin with, remember that macro shots are characterized by a clear and sharp foreground subject and background with a shallow depth of field.

Camera settings for macro photography. classic close-up

Shoot in manual exposure mode, this will give you complete control over the subject. It is preferable to use aperture priority mode, start macro photography with an aperture value of f/11.

• Focusing. When photographing static subjects, use the manual focus mode and focus on the central area of ​​the subject;
• For close-up macro shots, set the aperture to f/11. For greater depth of field, use a smaller aperture, such as f/16 or f/22;
• Set the shutter speed depending on the lighting;
• ISO 100;
• Focal length from 50mm to 100mm;

Camera settings for macro photography. Shallow depth of field

There are two key points in achieving a shallow depth of field. First, choose the widest aperture available on the lens. In most macro lenses, this is f/2.8, which is much wider than most zoom lenses.

The distance between the subject and the camera is the second step in achieving a shallow depth of field. The closer the subject is to the camera, the shallower the depth of field.

• Focusing. Precise focusing is absolutely essential when shooting with a shallow depth of field, and is difficult to achieve using autofocus. To fix this, you should try shooting in manual mode;
• exposure mode. Give preference to aperture priority (Av or A);
• The shutter speed will be set automatically;
• ISO 200;
• Focal length - from 50mm to 100mm;
• Set the white balance according to the light source.

Camera settings for handheld macro photography

Shooting close-ups of insects or other tiny creatures in aperture priority mode will give you control over depth of field.

• Focusing. Choose to focus on one point, and concentrate on the eyes of insects, or the core of a flower;
• To achieve a blurred background, it is desirable that the aperture be as wide as possible;
• The shutter speed should be about 1/250 sec. or faster. Otherwise, photos may come out blurry;
• ISO 200;
• Set the white balance according to the light source.