What can be done from old car springs. Crafts of dogs from different materials

Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using available tools for this, does not arise. However, there are situations when the springs of the required diameter are not at hand. It is in such cases that there is a need to make this element with your own hands.

Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating in intensive mode are best made in production conditions, where it is possible not only to choose the right one, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.

What will be required

To make a spring with your own hands, prepare the following consumables and equipment:

  • steel wire, the diameter of which must correspond to the size of the cross-section of the turns of your future spring product;
  • conventional gas burner;
  • a tool that every locksmith shop must have;
  • metalwork vice;
  • an oven, which can also be used as a heating device for domestic purposes.

The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, can not be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such a wire on a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be straightened and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.

When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should consider the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen somewhat smaller than the required size of the internal cross section of the future product.

In the event that the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1

The first thing to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to choose the material for such a product. The optimal material in this case is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made corresponds to the cross section of the coils of the spring that you need to make).

Step 2

Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more ductile, and you can easily align it and wind it on the mandrel. To perform this procedure, it is best to use a special oven, but if one is not at your disposal, then you can use any other device that melts wood.

In such a stove, it is necessary to kindle birch firewood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in them, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product should be allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more plastic, and you can easily work with it at home.

Step 3

The wire that has become soft should be carefully aligned and wound onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never wound springs before, you can preview the tutorial video, which is easy to find on the Internet.

Step 4

In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Heat treatment such as hardening will make the material harder and stronger. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870 °, for which a gas burner can be used. You can be guided by the fact that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the red-hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also focus on the video. After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.

According to the Eastern calendar, the mistress of 2030 is a yellow dog. Have you already gathered in the nearest store to search for themed souvenirs? Stop giving unnecessary little things.

Check out a selection of unique master classes and detailed lessons for both beginners and experienced needlewomen. Using them, you can easily prepare original gifts with your own hands.

If you don't feel confident enough to jump straight into complicated crafts, try making a funny dog ​​out of a long balloon.

Its manufacturing process is very simple. Follow the step-by-step instructions - and you will definitely succeed.


Now you know how to make a sausage ball dog. This cutie will delight the little ones. Practice a little and you will be able to turn an ordinary ball into a funny toy under their enthusiastic looks.

coffee dog

Sew a charming toy - a symbol of the New Year. A textile dog made by your own hands will be an unforgettable present for friends and family.

For work you will need:

  • white calico 50*50cm;
  • filler (cotton wool or balls);
  • PVA glue;
  • instant coffee;
  • brushes and acrylic paints;
  • needle and thread;
  • patterns.

Patterns are printed or redrawn. You can take them in full size, as in the picture, you can scale. If you increase the pattern, increase the amount of fabric accordingly.

  1. Transfer the pattern to the calico and cut out in duplicate. Sew the pieces, leaving an opening for turning.

  2. Turn the blanks inside out, fill with soft filler. Sew up the opening with a hidden stitch. Don't stuff the dachshund's ears too tightly.

  3. Sew the ears to the workpiece.

  4. Dilute a tablespoon of instant coffee in three tablespoons of boiling water. In the cooled mixture, add a pinch of vanillin (not vanilla sugar, namely vanillin!) And a tablespoon of PVA.
  5. Use a brush to paint the toys, blot excess moisture with a paper towel.

  6. Dry the blanks in an oven preheated to 75 ° C for 10 minutes. You can also use a hair dryer to dry.

  7. Add half a teaspoon of brown acrylic paint to the remaining coffee mixture. Draw spots on the toys, as fantasy tells.

  8. Dry items again. Then decorate the muzzles: draw eyes, noses and mouths. Let the paint dry and cover the eyes and nose with acrylic varnish.

Fragrant charms are ready. You can sew them together with your children. This is a great activity for interesting and useful leisure.

Cushion-dog

Do you want a pet more impressive than a small pocket dog? Treat yourself to an original interior pillow in the shape of a sleeping dog.

The product diagram is shown in the photo. Redraw the details on a large sheet of paper. You can choose any size.

Choose textiles: the color and texture depends on your imagination, but the material should be quite dense.

Transfer all the details to the fabric and cut them out. Sew the details of the body (if it is not from a single piece of matter), sew the halves of the tail to them.

Embroider or sew on a typewriter the eyes, mouth and nose of the doggie.

Process and sew ears to the head. They do not need to be filled with filler.

Sew the body parts along the bottom, leaving an opening for stuffing the pillow. Sew a hidden zipper into it.

Pass the top seam from the nose to the tail.

Sew paws and fill with filler. Pin them in the right places to the body, after turning it on the front side.

Turn the pillow inside out, sew the remaining seams. Cut and cut allowances on convex and concave elements.

Turn the pillow inside out through the zipper and stuff. Sleepy dog ​​is waiting for his master!

Fluffy pom-pom dog

Do you like small and fluffy pets? Get yourself an adorable puppy made of thick knitting threads.

For work you will need:

  • two colors of thick threads;
  • beads for the nose and eyes;
  • scraps of felt or felt;
  • scissors;
  • glue.

Make three pompoms, 2 of the same size, the third one is smaller and a different color.

Trim the pom poms carefully so they don't get frizzy.

Give one of the large pompoms a slightly elongated shape. This will be the dog's head. Glue a small pom-pom to it.

Glue the eyes or nose to the muzzle. If you want to tinker - make small pompoms, no - take beads.

Tie your head to your body.

Cut out the ears from the felt and glue the toys to the head.

You can decorate the finished puppy with a collar, New Year symbols or tie a voluminous bow.


Yellow felt terrier

Do you want to make a pattern of an original fabric dog with your own hands to please your friends with an unusual present? Use this detailed tutorial to create a cute toy puppy.

For work you will need:

  • yellow felt;
  • sharp scissors;
  • chalk or bar of dry soap;
  • needle with yellow thread;
  • filler;
  • braid;
  • collar pendant;
  • rhinestones or beads for the eyes.

Print or redraw the pattern of details. Transfer the outlines to the felt and cut out the blanks.

Sew a detail with a belly and paws to the body of the dog with an overcast seam, aligning the edges.

Leave 5 mm unsewn at the beginning and end of the seam for further processing.

Sew the second part of the torso to the paws in a mirror image.

Connect the components with the stomach to each other and sew.

This is what it looks like from underneath.

Start sewing the chest and head of the toy, starting from the junction of the stomach.

Stop in the middle of the top of the head. Now we need the last detail.

Attach it with a short part to the dog's head. The side parts are the inner side of the ears, and the long part is the neck.

Sew the part along the contour alternately to both parts of the head of the toy.

It is necessary to achieve such a result (top view).

Fill the product with filler through the unsewn opening at the back.

Straighten the body of the toy and sew it up.

Glue the eyes on the muzzle.

Take a small piece of string for the collar. Glue or sew it to the dog's neck. Optionally, add a pendant to the collar.

A real dog is ready to serve.

Sew a few of these toys, decorate them with different pendants. A wonderful idea for a children's or themed Christmas gift, isn't it?

If you want to give your imagination even more space, download patterns and templates for cute dogs. Give yourself the joy of creativity and wonderful crafts to your loved ones. Everyone will be happy with such pets.

option number 1

option number 2

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option number 4

Cool dachshund and twine rat

Wonderful and funny souvenirs are easy to make with your own hands, even from improvised materials. This detailed step-by-step mk is proof of that. Make a symbol of 2030 and please your friends with funny toys.

For work you will need:

  • cardboard roll from cling film or foil - the basis of the body;
  • large paper clips for paws;
  • leg-split;
  • glue Dragon or glue gun;
  • polystyrene foam or polystyrene for the head of the product;
  • masking (paper) tape;
  • awl;
  • sandpaper;
  • pliers.
  1. For the body of the animals, cut pieces of the desired length from the cardboard roll. Straighten the long paper clips, bend the loops at their ends for the stability of the paws. Make holes in the body with an awl, stick the paws into them and twist the ends with pliers to fix their position inside the cylinder. Stuff the body tightly with scraps of newspapers or paper napkins, seal the holes with tape.

  2. Make the tails of the little animals from a piece of a straightened paper clip: wrap it tightly with twine, smearing it with glue. Poke a hole in the body, insert the tail and fix it with glue. Or weave a pigtail out of twine, coat with glue and dry in the desired position, then glue it to the body. Wrap the paws tightly with twine in two layers. Start winding from the bottom of the first paw, then glue the twine along the animal's abdomen to the second paw, go down it, go up to the stomach again and go down the first paw in the same way. Treat the second pair of limbs in the same way.

    Wrap the body, smearing it with glue from a gun or Dragon.

  3. Cut out a teardrop shape for the head from a piece of Styrofoam or thick Styrofoam. Sand it with sandpaper, wrap it with tape, and then with twine.

  4. Here's what the heads look like. Make a nose for a dachshund by wrapping several layers of twine around the tip of a toothpick.

  5. Draw the outline of the ear on paper and put the sheet in the file. Put a little glue in the center of the template, dip the tip of the twine into it. Using a toothpick, make curls that fit snugly against each other until you fill the entire space of the drawn blank. Similarly, make the second ear. Let them dry completely.

  6. Glue the ear blanks and noses to the heads of the animals.

  7. Using a piece of paper clip, connect the head to the body. Spread the paper clip with glue and wrap it with twine, repeat the procedure again for strength.

  8. Decorate the muzzles of the animals as desired: draw or glue eyes, cilia, mouths.

  9. Another idea for your piggy bank is to make a dachshund figurine with leather ears.

Such cute crafts will become not only a sincere New Year's gift, but also a highlight of your interior.

felt magnet

A small souvenir made with love is a great gift for loved ones for any holidays. From this master class you will learn how to make a felt dog magnet with your own hands.

For work you will need the following materials:

  • magnet of any shape;
  • fast drying adhesive;
  • felt in two contrasting colors;
  • glue for felt (it is optimal to use "Moment Crystal" or transparent "Contact");
  • black threads of medium thickness;
  • 3 black beads for the nose and eyes;
  • thick cardboard for the frame.

Prepare the tools for work:

  • scalpel or cutter;
  • scissors with a sharp blade;
  • simple pencil;
  • dry soap or chalk for contours;
  • black gel pen.

Choose a drawing of a dog of the desired breed or use the suggested option. Print the image of the desired size on the printer or draw the outlines by hand in duplicate. Cut one pattern into patterns.

Transfer the outline of the dog to the black felt. Cut out 2 identical pieces.

Carefully stick white elements on the black part.

If you are not chasing the maximum realism of the finished craft, just sew on the nose and eyes, and embroider the muzzle with threads.

If you are not looking for easy ways, mark the desired location of the eyes with chalk and make small incisions in these places with a scalpel.

Craftsmen assure that spare parts from an old car are a very good consumable for arranging the original interior of a house or apartment. They can also be used quite effectively in the household. Our material will be equally interesting both to those who treat these ideas with a fair amount of skepticism and to those who like to be original.

Wheel disks

Perhaps, according to the degree of “integration” into the household, it is they who can rightfully consider themselves leaders.

For example, with minimal refinement, they make excellent country barbecues. A variety of "design solutions" on this topic are constantly flashing in any social network, and their ingenuity can only be envied. In the process of searching, you can come across smoking towers consisting of even 5-6 disks. But those who do not want to bother themselves with multi-stage engineering work, argue that the simplest version of such a brazier will quite cope with the task of cooking meat and vegetable dishes on coals. To do this, experts say, it is enough just to equip the disk turned upside down with three legs (ordinary metal tubes of the appropriate diameter will perfectly play this role), and make sure that the coals do not wake up down through the holes (you can use either a solid piece of iron, or get by with a folded several times with a metal mesh with narrow cells). The result - for at least one summer season, the land plot is provided with a reliable (and most importantly - inexpensive) device for cooking meat on coals.

Another fairly common way to use the wheel in the household told "SP" a resident of one of the dacha settlements near Moscow Evgeny Volodin. “I don’t remember where I saw this option,” says the man, “but I really liked it. By simply nailing a couple of disks to the wall of the barn, I had at my disposal very convenient holders for watering hoses. True, not so long ago, Eugene brought the original idea to a bit, as they say, brought to mind. One small inconvenience prompted him to “revise” it: winding the hoses around the wheel after watering by hand cannot be called clean work. Therefore, a savvy summer resident planted another wheel on a pin with a bearing, supplying the structure with a spring and a gear wheel with an anchor. Now, at the end of watering, the hose is wound around the disc on its own.

“Wheels can be used as a base for backlit coffee tables,” says the freelance designer. Nadezhda Agafonova. - Especially good in combination with a glass top in this capacity are cast or forged products with a negative overhang. Because the light of the LEDs or lamps hidden inside the base is scattered very beautifully due to the original wheel pattern. However, in this case, the weight of the structure turns out to be quite decent, Agafonova specifies.

Car interior elements

Recommendations for the use of car seats in the process of arranging the interior of a house or apartment are an imperishable "hit" of many glamorous design magazines. What only options you will not meet on their pages. There are also folding rocking chairs, into which it is easy to turn the front seats of any car (you just need to put them on skids and provide them with armrests), and kitchen sofas with chain swings (mainly rear seats are used for these purposes). Fantasy developers, as they say, there are no boundaries. True, it is worth noting that all this diversity is purely decorative. From the point of view of functionality, it is very difficult to find a different use for the seats from an old car.

Seat belt buckles make good housekeepers. Provided, of course, that a bunch of keys will be equipped with a keychain in the form of a buckle from this very belt. “Of course, such a kind of key holder may seem somewhat cumbersome to someone, as it did to me at first,” says a resident of Krasnoyarsk Polina Ozerova. - Therefore, I grumbled for a long time at my husband, who hung these clamps with buttons exactly according to the number of members of our family on the wall of the hallway of our house. But I soon realized that in terms of storage reliability, such a system definitely surpasses any of the most beautiful hooks, not to mention simple carnations, from where the keys can be simply accidentally brushed off.

Experienced car enthusiast Igor Gladyshev from Moscow, in his house, he crashed into all the interior doors not the usual furniture, but car locks. Moreover, as they say, “supported the domestic manufacturer”, giving preference to the model that was used, in particular, in the line of VAZ-2107 cars. “From the time of training at a driving school, I remembered the instructor’s words that the so-called “drowned” handles in a car are much safer than speakers. And when my child, who is always rushing around the rooms at breakneck speed, kissed his forehead a couple of times on the protruding handles of the usual locks, and my wife slightly bled her thigh, I decided to take this step.

Yes, Igor explains, the mortise "American tongues" had to be removed and replaced with ordinary round latches. But now, no one else in the household has scratches and bruises after an accidental meeting with door locks.

Suspension and body

“In England and other European countries,” says the Moscow Architectural Institute graduate Ilona Sergeeva, - quite often on the sites of wealthy citizens you can see old cars turned into small pools at the whim of the owners. And in the houses themselves - the rear parts of the bodies, acting as secretaries.

In Russia, perhaps, such landscape and interior solutions would look very extravagant, but domestic craftsmen make some interesting discoveries in this area. Inhabitant of the Krasnodar Territory Maxim Ya., selling for spare parts his old UAZ-469, which had suffered in an accident, for a very long time could not attach the hood cover in reliable hands. And when he had already come to terms with the fact that this spare part, apparently, would simply have to be scrapped, an original idea came to his mind. “I was just finishing building a shed on the site,” he says, “and the building materials were short. I began to figure out what to concoct a visor over the door, and then the same hood caught my eye. I ended up adapting him in such a capacity. ” It turned out, says Maxim, cheap and cheerful. And when he later attached a pair of headlights to the hood (having previously inserted ordinary fluorescent lamps there), he also solved the problem of lighting the yard at night.

In a similar extravagance way, by the way, some Russian design bureaus offer to solve the issue of lighting (only for rooms), which have long adopted world experience in the manufacture of table lamps and wall lamps from automobile shock absorbers, as well as exhaust pipes.

Spring Toys

Stretch some spring with your hands, and then release it - the length of the spring will remain the same. Compress the spring and release it again - the result is the same. You can bend the spring in different directions, simultaneously stretching or compressing it, but after releasing the coils of the spring return to their original position - such is the amazing property of this interesting detail. No wonder the spring is used in many mechanisms and machines, performing a wide variety of tasks. In some cases, she, trying to stretch, firmly presses the parts to each other. In others, on the contrary, it prevents the convergence of parts, becoming a shock absorber during impacts on one of them.

The role of the spring in the proposed toys is interesting. You can't buy these in a toy store. She "revives" the toy, makes it flexible, mobile, more interesting for kids. Here, for example, is a toy that resembles a small domestic dog - a dachshund. If earlier such a toy would have been rigid, motionless, now part of its torso has been replaced by a large-diameter spring. As soon as the toy is pulled by the string, the dog's head will begin to sway back and forth, and the tail will move.

You can make such a toy from a finished, for example, plastic, dog figurine. The body is sawn with a jigsaw or saw, and a large but rather flexible spring is attached between the resulting halves. Instead of a tail, a spring of small diameter is installed, preferably cone-shaped. You are unlikely to find ready-made springs, so later we will tell you how to make them yourself.

In order for the dog to be carried by the string, a pair of wheels rotating on a common axis must be attached to its hind legs. And two pairs of such wheels should be attached to the front paws. Then, in the initial state (the dog is in place) or with a loosened string, the paws will rest on the ground through the inner pair of wheels, and when the string is pulled or pulled - through the outer pair. To prevent the wheels from moving along the axle, you can put a rubber tube on it between the wheels or limit the movement of the wheels with pins inserted into the axle. You can also solder copper rings to the axle near the wheels.

The second toy can be a set of fantastic fish made, for example, from ping-pong balls. A nose, tail, fins made of paper are glued to the balls, and a long spring is attached on top. It is enough to pull a little on the upper end of the spring - and the fish will begin to sway, waving their fins, as if during swimming.

By making several of these toys and painting them in different colors, you can create an interesting "aquarium". A greater effect can be achieved if springs of different lengths are attached to the toys, and the ends of the springs are fixed on the same bar.

And here is the third toy - you can call it "fun workers." This is a cart with two figures of workers. The trolley itself can be of any design. The main thing is that its rear axle has a bulge in the middle in the form of the letter P. A wire pull ring is put on the “shelf” of the bulge, parallel to the axis and spaced from it at some distance - it passes through a slot in the trolley and is attached with the second end to the rocker arm. In turn, the rocker is fixed on the axis of the rack, fixed in the center of the bogie, and can swing.

Handles are installed at the ends of the rocker, and figures of workers are attached to them. Springs are fixed between the figures and the base of the trolley. If you now pull the string attached to the cart, the wheels, and hence the axles, will begin to rotate. The protrusion on the rear wheel axle will rotate in a circle, pulling in and pushing out the wire rod. The rocker will swing, and the figures will alternately rise and fall. It will give the impression that the workers are merrily pumping a water pump.

You have seen just three examples of using springs in toys. Many different toys with springs you can invent and build yourself.

Now let's get acquainted with the methods of making springs. It will not be possible to simply twist them manually - the “springy” wire will tend to unbend, and you will not succeed in springing. Therefore, it is necessary to wind the springs only with the help of devices.

One of the devices consists of wooden bars 1 and gasket 2. A triangular groove is propylene in each bar. When the bars are folded together, the grooves form a hole into which the handle 3 is inserted. The diameter of the handle can be different - it depends on the diameter of the future spring.

In accordance with the selected handle, a gasket is selected. It should be of such thickness that the handle enters freely into the resulting hole between the bars.

The bars with the gasket are clamped in a vice, and the end of the spring wire (for example, steel) is inserted into the hole in the handle. Pulling the wire with your left hand (an old mitten must be put on your hand), turn the handle with your right hand. After making one turn, the end of the spring is removed from the hole in the handle, cut off with wire cutters and the resulting semi-ring is fixed on the bend of the handle. Then rotate the handle, while pulling the wire, until a spring of the desired length is obtained. If a spring of large diameter is needed, then the bent end of the wire is hooked onto the L-shaped handle 4 inserted into the round wooden stick 5, and the wire is passed through the hole in the stick. The diameter of the stick determines the diameter of the future spring.

For a cone-shaped spring, you need a handle ground into a cone by hand or on a lathe.

Small diameter springs are best wound with thinner wire than large diameter springs. In addition, it is desirable to make springs of a larger diameter from a more “rigid” (elastic) wire, and vice versa. You can test these recommendations in practice.


prim2005 26.01.2013 - 15:19


Help whoever can 😊

Like this

forests spirit 26.01.2013 - 15:26

I made all sorts of tricky springs from springs from a mattress - pluses in a larger diameter of the turns - less irregularities in the end. I can’t say anything about hardening, I haven’t tried it.

Trident8 26.01.2013 - 15:27

Heat thoroughly until red 810-830 - and into oil. Then release in the oven at 200 minutes 20 - and into the air. Check if you do not like the result - change the mode a little in one direction or another.

Romario_omsk 26.01.2013 - 15:36

when I assembled the grinder, the question arose about the spring, because from the brake pads was too long, I cut it in half, then bent the coil and heated it on a gas burner (like a pencil, the area is no longer needed), molded it into a hot “loop” and then “hardened” it by lowering it into water, i.e. to. not hardened was too soft ....
BUT without a vacation, she became fragile and broke off ....
then he repeated the procedure with the other and made a "vacation" also, so as not to spoil the entire spring with a pencil, brought it to tint colors and cooled it in the air ....
works fine....
you have a larger part, but you can heat and release the whole thing in the oven, but you also need to heat it either in the forge or with a larger burner ....

prim2005 26.01.2013 - 15:36

To make from a ready-made spring, I don’t have enough health, the bending radii are approx. 3mm.
I tried to heat with a vacation - it breaks at the first attempt to compress or stretch. 200 deg. probably not enough

alex-wolf 26.01.2013 - 15:38

Trident8
Then release in the oven at 200 minutes 20 - and into the air. Check if you do not like the result - change the mode a little in one direction or another.
Springs need a different temperature regime, even I know that. 😊
here it is available, for understanding and by the color of the tarnish, you can try to make a vacation with a burner spring. it's about 300-500 degrees on vacation

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 16:29

prim2005
The priest had ... In short, there was a tricky spring, but I fell in love with it somewhere along the way. Picking up another is unrealistic, you need to do it. I tried to bend it out of an ordinary twisted spring, as it does not work out very well. I annealed the workpiece, it turns out to be more fun to bend, but you need to heat it up. That's the question: how to harden the spring correctly at home with a minimum of thermal equipment.
Bar diameter 1.5mm, spring size 40mm X 15mm (in one plane).
Help whoever can 😊

What metal is the spring?

prim2005 26.01.2013 - 16:40

What metal is the spring?
The most common is H.Z. 😊

dru029 26.01.2013 - 16:56

prim2005

The most common is H.Z.


very interesting!

TEA737 26.01.2013 - 17:13

Shalim
What metal is the spring?
Among the bourgeoisie 1095 is the most common, we probably have U8-U10 judging by the composition.

Va-78 26.01.2013 - 17:51

Considering that the question is surprisingly often repeated, I will quote myself - from the fact that I communicated in the PM:

%username% hello!
Ordinary fastening pins are very well suited for making all kinds of small knife-type springs. Due to the fact that they are available in different sizes and with different thicknesses of the rod, you can almost always choose the right one for yourself. Plus, if you rivet them a little, you can get flat springs - sometimes it's also useful.

The bottom line: we take a pin, heat it on a gas stove to a red (even a little orange) color and gently straighten it with pliers. Let the pin cool down by itself - then it will groan soft. You will get a more or less straight twig.
Further, when the piece of iron is soft, we bite off the ear and the point that we do not need with wire cutters. We heat it again (to the same color) and on some anvil (for example, the flat part of the dumbbell pancake), carefully straighten the twig with a hammer completely. Heated, it is very easily deformed, so we roll little by little.
When we have completely straightened the piece of iron, we measure and bend the desired shape of the spring with the help of pliers. Before bending, it will be good to heat it up again and naturally cool it down - the spring will last longer there, since this will insure us against the possible occurrence of microcracks.
Now that the twig has been given the desired shape, you need to return its spring properties. To do this, again warm it up to an already familiar color and cool it sharply. You can just chill it in water.
After that, our workpiece will be very hard, but brittle. Therefore, we take a fine sandpaper (approx. # 300-400) and clean the part from the scale - so that you can see the shiny metal.
Again we bring it to the fire - this time not directly into the flame, but a little from the side. The task is to catch the moment when a color wave rolls along the spring, the so-called. "runaway". We are interested in yellow.
As soon as the piece of iron turned yellow a little (not from "incandescence", but precisely from "heating") - immediately put it aside and let it cool down naturally.
Everything, the steel again acquired spring properties.

If it is desirable to get a stainless spring, then after heating we lower the part into any machine oil so that it cools down completely there (the twig is thin and this is literally a minute of time). Then it must be held above the flame, at a height where the oil will ignite. It is important not to overheat, otherwise the spring will be too weak. Those. we place it high above the fire, and then gradually lower it (at first, the oil will smoke - this is a good sign, it means it’s already nearby) - as it flared up, we hold the piece of iron away from the fire for a couple of seconds. When the oil burns, it forms a strong film on the metal, which will not allow it to oxidize. To further enhance this effect, we dilute a couple of drops of epoxy, and wetting a piece of cloth or leather in it, we wipe our finished spring. Epoxy will cling to the layer of burnt masa to death, and due to the thin, pre-thin layer, it will not crack. This will enhance the anti-corrosion properties.

That's all in general. More to describe than to do.
Yes, - if the diameters of the pins are not enough, then any other thin springy nishtyaks can be processed in the same way - for example, springs from Soviet clamshells give excellent results. One straightened spring from there is approx. 40cm bar.
The first time you probably won’t succeed, but a couple of attempts (so that the eye gets used to catching the color and heating time) and everything will be OK.

Devilishly your...

P.S. the technology has been tested many times, but only used old pins, now the Chinese can make devil knows what - they bought Chinese needles - they bend like a pipets. It makes sense to gut "grandmother's reserves", otherwise it's completely bad.

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 17:53

TEA737
Among the bourgeoisie 1095 is the most common, we probably have U8-U10 judging by the composition.

I meant T.S. from which piece of iron he wants to make a spring.
U8 is so hot on the spring, 60c2a is different, 65g is third.
And then I look the specialists have already advised. Heat up, dip in oil...))))

Va-78 26.01.2013 - 18:19

U8 is so hot on the spring, 60c2a is different, 65g is third.
Yes, what are there "differently"? You read the OP's question:
... as at home, with a minimum of thermal equipment, temper the spring correctly.
The bar diameter is 1.5mm, the overall size of the spring is 40mm X 15mm (in one plane)...

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 18:25

Well, yes, you’ll please hell with the temperature, because such a diameter on gas will instantly heat up to an uncontrollably high temperature. Why did I lose sight of this moment)))) Here it’s only by the method of scientific poke, there’s no other way.

Romario_omsk 26.01.2013 - 20:07

VA is right, the color he called yellow I would call straw...

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 20:18

Release the spring to purple - about 400 gr. Less nozzy - burst)))

Trident8 26.01.2013 - 20:32

I gave the mode for 65G. The tempering temperature can be increased up to 400 if it breaks down.

max12312 26.01.2013 - 20:38

alex-wolf 26.01.2013 - 20:46

max12312
so as not to yawn tarnish on such a small detail. I put the piece of iron, cleaned after hardening, on a 10mm steel black-rust disc)) and I heat the disc, the color will go very slowly and you will get what you need without straining
Cool, you have to remember. 😊

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 20:49

Well, so the blades are thin, so let go of the current at home on gas, it’s enough to heat the blank, but it’s unlikely to harden it. And the cross section is so small that it is unlikely to be repeated, since carbon will burn out instantly.

max12312 26.01.2013 - 21:12

Duc and the blades are thin Kalat,
I told you about a smooth, uniform release without any extra effort, because the correct release for the spring is critical. and it can be hardened classically. 1.5 is not such a thin detail, I usually do the hardening of such small details in this way, I tie it with a thin wire and heat it with a burner right above the hardening medium (poured into a tall beer can) and when it gets hot I just drop the part into the can. respect.

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 21:35

I told you about a smooth, uniform release without any extra effort, because the correct release for the spring is critical. and it can be hardened classically. 1.5 is not such a thin detail, I usually do the hardening of such small details in this way, I tie it with a thin wire and heat it with a burner right above the hardening medium (poured into a tall beer can) and when it gets hot I just drop the part into the can. respect.

I'm talking about hardening in the mountain))))
By the way, when heated for hardening, you should not force events either)))))

max12312 26.01.2013 - 21:44

I'm talking about hardening in the mountain))))
By the way, when heated for hardening, you should not force events either)))))
I have a wonderful book .. a thermist's handbook .. it helps a lot, but everyone has their own subtleties. 😛

Shalim 26.01.2013 - 21:57

I have a wonderful book .. a thermist's handbook .. it helps a lot, but everyone has their own subtleties.

Who is arguing?
And the book is amazing.

prim2005 27.01.2013 - 03:05

Thanks to all who responded. I will experiment.

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