How to level a concrete floor - screeds, mixes and options for flooring. Leveling concrete floors with cement mortar Cutting the concrete floor

This is a step by step guide on how to pour and level concrete. Therefore, you need a few tools that you can buy or make yourself. Generally speaking, there are many finishes you can use with your concrete slab or foundation, but the simplest is to use a large formwork made from 2x4 boards. However, make sure you finish pouring the concrete slab or foundation as soon as possible, otherwise the concrete may dry out and you won't have time to smooth the surface. Finishing a large span of concrete is a more complex project, it needs a few friends to help you and a few techniques to get the job done right.

For concrete slab finishes, you need the following:

• concrete
• formwork boards
• 2×2 boards for attaching molds

Instruments

• protective gloves
• protective glasses
• roulette
• mop brush for leveling concrete slabs

Adviсe

• before work, put on special clothes and shoes so as not to get dirty in concrete
• thoroughly clean your tools after work is completed

Time

• several hours to a day, depending on surface area

How to pour concrete

In order to pour the slab of the desired level, it is necessary to create a basic formwork. The formwork is usually made from planks, but you need to make sure the structure is strong enough to support the weight of the concrete.

When building formwork, you must make sure it is level. It is important to make it level on all sides, as in most cases you must use zip ties (long straight pieces of wood or metal) to keep the concrete surfaces flat.

If your yard is large, then a concrete machine can pour concrete directly into the formwork. However, there are cases in which the truck cannot reach a particular location, so you must use a 4” hose. If this is the case, make sure you pour the concrete as evenly as possible over the entire surface, otherwise you will have a hard time leveling it.

Remember that actually pouring concrete into formwork from a hose is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. On the contrary, the person who is engaged in this operation must have experience in such work, otherwise he may even be injured during the process.

During the pouring of the concrete slab, the hose will be very heavy, so you can use the help of friends.

Remember to wear rubber boots and protective gloves otherwise the concrete may irritate your skin.

Smart Tip: make sure you pour the concrete as evenly as possible so that the job of finishing the concrete slabs is easier. Usually, if the concrete has the right mix recipe, you will notice that the concrete tends to level itself. However, you will still need to level the surface.

How to level concrete

You can make a simple concrete leveling tool out of a long stick and a wooden plank. Tip: the board should be 1.2 - 1.5 m wide, but it should not be very heavy. In hot weather, you must hurry, otherwise the concrete may dry out and you will not be able to finish the job.

Smart Tip: to level the concrete, you can use a flat-bottomed shovel or a homemade tool. Just lay it on the concrete, holding it at a 15º angle from the surface, start to gently pull towards you.

Continue pulling the concrete until you get a smooth, beautiful surface. As you can see in the photo, you still need to wear rubber boots to be able to reach the furthest parts of the surface.

Smart Tip: for a final finish, you can use a trowel or a large brush all over the surface, just don't press too hard or you risk damaging the concrete.

Thanks for reading our article.

A flat floor is the basis of a quality repair and will allow the owner to fully experience the comfort of a house or apartment. This reduces the risk of bumps and injury. Therefore, in order for all further repairs to be perfect, you need to know how to level the concrete floor. This task is quite difficult, but if everything is done correctly, it is quite real.

Preparatory work

Before you level the cement floor, you need to properly prepare for work and carry out several important activities. They will help to significantly reduce the time spent and save the master from additional difficulties.

Before leveling concrete floors, it is necessary to correctly select the required materials and tools. It is on their quality that the attractiveness, as well as the convenience of the floor, will depend. Another important factor in the success of the alignment process is the strict observance of all stages of work and taking into account the advice of professionals. They will help beginners not only avoid most mistakes, but also get the job done in the shortest possible time.

Professionals advise the following:

Choice of materials and tools

As a rule, a tool that is easily found in the household is used to level the concrete screed. You can also borrow it from neighbors, acquaintances or rent it in special services.

To quickly and efficiently complete the task, you will need:

• building level;
• putty knife;
• perforated corners (to be used as beacons);
• a bucket or deep bowl for mixing cement mortar;
• construction mixer or electric drill.

If the surface is not new, then it is necessary to clean and dust it. In the latter case, you will need a construction vacuum cleaner. It will help to remove the smallest dust and better prepare the surface.

One of the most important stages of preparation is the choice of a mixture for leveling the floor or making it yourself. The second option is less preferable, since during the mixing process one of the components can be missed or used in larger quantities. From this, the properties of the mixture will change dramatically, which can lead to poor quality of the work performed.

To level the floors in ordinary apartments, you need to use cement-based mixtures. If the room being repaired has a constantly high level of humidity, then it is best to use a gypsum-based mortar. It is moisture resistant and is not afraid of sudden drops.

Alignment methods

Before leveling the concrete screed, it is necessary to choose the most suitable method for the room. It depends on many factors such as temperature, humidity and type of room.

There are three main ways to level the floor, which are often used in the repair of premises. Among them are:

1. With the help of cement-sand composition.
2. With the use of dry compositions.
3. The use of self-levelling compounds.

Cement-sand composition

This version of the screed is considered universal and most commonly used. He gained his popularity due to the cheapness and availability of the materials used, which can be easily found in any hardware store. Leveling with a cement-sand composition is a rather time-consuming and lengthy task. However, to carry out such work, you can not invite specialists, but cope on your own.

This method allows to achieve high strength and reliability of the coating. It should be borne in mind that the mixture can be laid out in a layer with a thickness of at least 3 cm. Otherwise, the screed will not be reliable and may collapse.

Work order:

Dry screed

This method of leveling the floor is done using mixtures consisting of quartz sand, granulate, polystyrene foam, expanded clay. Any moisture-resistant material, plywood, chipboard, fiberboard can be used as the main material. The finished screed not only levels the floor, but also additionally insulates and also soundproofs the room. Because of these properties, it is often used to repair apartments in a multi-storey building.

This work is quite simple and even a beginner can easily cope with it. Among the positive aspects of dry screed, it is worth noting the following:

1. Small amount of time spent on work.
2. The possibility of laying the coating immediately after the end of the leveling process.
3. If necessary, you can lay wiring or pipes inside the screed.
4. To prepare the solution, you do not need to use a liquid.
5. Ability to work alone.

A large number of advantages makes this floor leveling method one of the most popular. Professionals advise dividing the entire surface into separate squares and doing the work gradually.

The process of performing such an alignment is simple and consists of the following steps:

During operation, some unforeseen problems may occur. The most common situation is when the master needs to move a sheet of material to another place. However, such actions are not recommended, as it is possible to disturb the uniformity of the leveling layer and get a curved floor. In such cases, only a return to the initial stage of work can correct the situation.

Self leveling compound

In modern construction, special solutions are used to level the floor, which independently spread over the surface and are evenly distributed over it. Such mixtures are made on the basis of cement with the addition of modifiers that contribute to a more fluid consistency.

After such alignment, it is imperative to lay linoleum, carpet or tile on the floor. If this is not done, then the surface of the mixture will absorb various liquids, which will lead to the rapid destruction of the coating.

Floor leveling is done as follows:

Leveling a concrete floor is a rather difficult and energy-intensive task. In some cases, it may take more than one week. With the right approach to business and following all the recommendations of professionals, you can significantly simplify the whole process and complete it as soon as possible. To carry out the task independently under the power of each owner.

In this article I want to tell you and show you how to level the concrete floor quickly, efficiently and without large financial costs in almost any room. And all this can be done independently by anyone.

Preparation of concrete surface and materials

Our floor looked like this

Let's start to bring it into something suitable for . (or other coverage of your choice).

The floor is pre-cleaned of dust and dirt. Large chips, cracks putty. We treat the entire surface of the concrete floor with a deep penetration primer. 24 hours after priming, you can start leveling the concrete floor. It is recommended to glue the bottom of the walls with a special tape, but this is not necessary.

To level the existing one, we will use the self-spreading mixture "Osnovit T-45 Skorline" fast-hardening.

Is issued in packing on 20 kg. The cost of one package is approximately 250 rubles. In order to level the concrete floor, we needed to level and raise the floor by about 1 cm. The area of ​​the room is 12 square meters. The consumption of this mixture is small compared to other manufacturers - 13 kilograms of the mixture per 1 square meter, with a layer of 1 cm. To level the concrete base, in our case, 156 kg of the mixture will be needed, respectively, these are 8 bags. Just in case, we bought another bag of mixture, but it did not come in handy. At a cost of 250 rubles per bag, we will spend 2,000 rubles on a room. Agree, it's not much.

In addition, we need a needle roller with a long handle. Its cost is about 250 rubles.

Drill with a nozzle (nozzle 250 rubles) for mixing the solution.

And containers for preparing the solution. We bought 2 containers of 20 liters worth 130 rubles each. We will also need the so-called paint studs. But, since there were none in the nearest stores, I made them with my own hands. To do this, you will need two planks the length and width of your foot, self-tapping screws - 12 pcs. for each and ordinary tape. We screw the screws into the plank, when needed, we fasten it with tape to the legs. The main thing is not to do this ahead of time, so as not to spoil it in other rooms.

Concrete floor leveling procedure

So let's get started. You need to prepare the water in advance, as the mixture begins to thicken quite quickly. Water consumption 7 liters per 1 bag.
For work, you will need at least 2 people, it is difficult to do it alone. In order to level the concrete floor, carefully pour the contents of one bag into a bucket of clean water at the rate of 1 kilogram of dry mix per 350-370 ml of clean water (7 liters of water per 1 bag). At the same time, stir the mixture with a mixer.
Mix until a homogeneous mass is formed. We are waiting for 1-2 minutes.

At this time, pour the second bag into another container and mix, allowing the solution in the first container to settle. After 2-3 minutes, mix the solution in the first container again, and if there are no lumps, the solution is ready for use.

It is advisable to use the solution within 40 minutes. In this case, be sure to stir immediately before use.

While one person prepares the concrete floor, the second pours the finished one onto the floor, starting at the far end of the room, shod with paint shoes so that he can walk on the poured mortar without leaving marks. Each portion of the poured solution must be rolled with a spiked roller for better spreading and removal of possible air bubbles. And so we do with the whole quantity.

The whole filling took us 40-50 minutes. When the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is flooded, we still roll it several times with a needle roller. Removing air bubbles from the mixture to prevent further cracking of the floor. This mixture is good because you can walk on it after 2!!! hours. And the thickness of the mixture is from 2mm to 100mm.

If the room is very hot, after 2-3 hours you need to cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room with plastic wrap. This procedure is necessary in order to protect the surface from drying out too quickly. If this is not done, then cracks may form.

Final works

After we have leveled the concrete floor:

ceramic tiles can be laid after 3 days.

Parquet, laminate, carpet, linoleum, cork after 7 days.

The final mixture dries after 28 days. So our . This is what it looks like a few minutes after the end of the pour. Almost like a mirror.

And this is what it looks like 2 hours later.

You can already walk on it. Especially true for walk-through rooms,. Total room 12 sq. m. we spent about 3000 rubles and 2 hours of our time. Economical and very high quality.

In some places, small tubercles turned out. This is a consequence of the fact that the roller was rolled poorly. But this defect is easy to remove with coarse sandpaper or a stone.

Leveling the concrete floor is necessary for laying the subsequent decorative coating. Therefore, this is an important part of the improvement of the premises, which includes classical and modern leveling methods, such as wet and dry screed, pouring the composition and pouring multi-component mixtures.

Peculiarities

In apartments where people live for a long time, the upper part of the concrete floor covering is gradually broken, sometimes coming into disrepair. In this case, it is mandatory to carry out a major overhaul of either the entire floor, or a separately leaky part of it.

In new homes, concrete floor screeds tend to be better prepared and look smoother. But here, too, it is necessary to take into account individual shortcomings that arise in the places where individual plates are joined to each other. And when buying such an apartment, residents most often have to additionally carry out minor repairs. Before starting repair work, careful measurements, cleaning and other types of floor preparation for leveling are carried out.

The preparatory stage includes the removal of the outer coating and the inspection of all uneven places and crevices found. Some of the defects exist in houses from the moment of construction and then become even more aggravated during operation.

The height of the concrete pavement should ideally be the same over the entire floor area. To determine this indicator, a long tool is used, which is called the level. Often, modern devices are also connected to the process - laser builders or water levels.

Preliminary measurements reveal, first of all, two main parameters - the highest point on the surface and the most extensive and deep dent. The gap between them is to be evenly filled with concrete or other material.

It is necessary to raise the sagging places to the maximum level, counting from zero - between the horizon and the floor plane. Only after that, linoleum or tile, parquet or laminate is applied to the subfloor. At the same time, we must not forget that all parts of the interior are interconnected: if the coating is excessively raised, it may be difficult to open doors and operate heating batteries. In order not to redo the work twice, these factors must be taken into account in advance.

What is better to equalize?

The ideal material for leveling, according to many experts, has not yet been invented. Putty can eliminate small roughness, putty and cover chips conveniently and with the help of tile adhesive.

A liquid mixture of concrete and water combined with other fibers is an excellent leveling agent for small dents. For preparation as a filler of the sand-concrete composition, cement grade M-400, sand and thinner are used. A building mixer mixes all the components, since it is rather difficult to achieve a high-quality leveler manually.

Significant defects are leveled with cement mortar, achieving results even in case of serious damage to the concrete base during construction. The gypsum composition is used to fix metal guides in the screed process, the so-called lighthouses. At home, when doing do-it-yourself repair work, ready-made dry mixes and polystyrene concrete are preferable, combining synthetic plasticity and fast, durable hardening after application. In the case of using a universal ready-made or mixed mixture of concrete and sand obtained in a mixer, the poured floor is subjected to additional grinding with a special machine.

Work technology

A completely smooth and even floor looks beautiful and elegant, while a curved flooring detracts from the aesthetic perception of the entire room or kitchen. In the process of overhaul, the floors in the house are the last to be dismantled, and they are the first to be put in order. If a total leveling of surfaces is carried out during the preparatory work, the floor is first leveled, and then they move on to the walls and ceiling.

Among the common defects in the floor screed in both private and multi-storey buildings of a standard layout, experts call:

1. Local minor errors that look like level "swells" that create irregularities on the floor.
2. Changes and drops in the form of periodic, especially noticeable on the surface of finding waves from concrete or other material. In private buildings, such waves on the floor can be quite significant, up to several centimeters.
3. Small wave drops or "chill". These defects usually remain after the use of a building tool - the rule.
4. Small cracks, lenses and caverns protruding pieces of rubble, as evidence of the destruction of the floor. In this case, it becomes unsafe to move around the house, it is impossible to securely fix furniture and household appliances. In addition, the ability of the coating to provide insulation from noise, odors and excess moisture is lost.

The floor needs to be cleaned, putty bumps and chipped parts. In order to reduce the consumption of a concrete-based leveling compound or not to break a plywood sheet, large bumps are knocked down with a chisel.

Leveling methods used by builders: the use of concrete or dry screed on pre-set beacons or without them, as well as the method of self-leveling flooring. The correct choice of method depends on the magnitude of the differences between the maximum and minimum levels.

If the irregularities are minor, up to two or three centimeters, a technology such as arranging a self-leveling floor is suitable. This is an expensive method, since a significant amount of leveling mixture is used per square meter of area. Therefore, dry screed or alignment with beacons is most often used.

In order to make a screed based on a sand-concrete mixture with high quality, metal slats are laid on the base, which will indicate guidelines for movement during the screed. The process is labor-intensive, but it allows you to even out potholes and differences of several centimeters, to make the coating perfect in any room.

Step by step, the work is carried out as follows. Necessary:

• Prepare the floor by removing oil stains and dirt.
• Lay waterproofing material, gluing the joints. Leave allowances along the walls of the room.
• Using a level, mount metal guides - beacons. The distance between them is allowed no more than one meter, otherwise it will be more difficult to level the surface.

• Prepare a concrete-sand mixture, preferably immediately for the entire area to be poured. Stirring time - from an hour to an hour and a half, so that the composition does not harden. Most often, a building automatic mixer is used, bringing the composition to a semi-liquid state. The finished mixture should only spread slightly to the sides without spreading.
• Alignment is done from a distant corner, in small parts, using a rule. Applying the mixture, it is immediately leveled. To securely close all dents, the mixture is scattered on the sides, and not just along the guides. In order not to form air gaps, each layer of the screed must be pierced with a metal knitting needle.

• A thick screed is reinforced with other material, and special seams are cut for shrinkage. The distance between them is selected up to three meters. After that, the flooded surface is left for about a day. After this time, the screed must be moistened with water from the sprayer and left for another two days. Then you can check whether the sand concrete mixture has solidified well.
• At the next stage, the surface is moistened again, a polyethylene film is placed on top to protect it from cracks.

• Over the next week, daily moistening of the screed is required, then the film is removed, leaving the floor to dry naturally. The process of complete drying takes at least a week or even two.
• The dry finished surface has a uniform gray color. Tapping it with a block of wood causes the layer to sound the same anywhere on the floor.
• If the alignment is done qualitatively, you can proceed with the installation of the coating of laminate, linoleum, and parquet. Tiles can be laid simultaneously with the last layer of screed.

When performing alignment, one should not rush too much, but it is also undesirable to delay the procedure. Cold seams may appear. Therefore, it is recommended, especially in the case of a large room, to invite an assistant and work together.

Material

Whatever the main coating is laid - tiles, parquet boards or linoleum, auxiliary materials are used to level the floor. Most often, plywood, layers of concrete and GVL are placed under the flooring. Only in this case, the required quality is achieved - an impeccable surface, ready to serve for many years.

A screed based on sand and cement is one of the classic options, since it provides a flat surface even in those rooms where the differences reach four or more centimeters. Dry screed is provided with self-leveling mixtures based on quartz sand, granular particles and expanded clay, expanded polystyrene. A flat surface is provided by sheets of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or gypsum fiber sheets that are resistant to moisture.

room

Leveling the floor, achieving the perfect coverage, is made with polystyrene concrete, wet or dry mix. This method, along with a cement-sand screed, well prepares the floor for laminate and parquet in the living room and bedroom, nursery or dining room. If the apartment is small-sized with a low ceiling, and the differences in the floor are not more than three millimeters, it is better to resort to a flooded floor, which will dry out after 12-14 hours. The entire process of laying the floor, as a rule, does not take more than two weeks.

A polyurethane-based filler floor is not intended for rooms with temperature fluctuations; it is better to use this method starting from the second floor. But it is an excellent option for a rough base for a laminate. Before applying the self-levelling compound, the floor must be thoroughly primed. Then the finished liquid composition is poured onto the floor, leveling with a spatula.

To eliminate air bubbles that cause coating defects, a needle roller is used, piercing the filled layer. The flooded floor dries in just 15 minutes, so you should do all the operations together with an assistant. Slows down the hardening of cold water, which moistens the coating.

If you have to lay linoleum, the surface must be absolutely flat. To ensure these goals, a method such as a dry screed for drops of no more than a centimeter and a half is suitable. If repairs need to be done quickly, strengthening the floor with almost no defects, leveling is done with sheets of plywood or chipboard. Strengthen them with self-tapping screws and dowels after gluing to the floor surface.

For the kitchen and balcony, beautiful ceramic tiles are often used as the main coating. There is an easy way to lay it evenly while repairing small imperfections in the concrete base. The method does not give a full leveling of the floor, however, it allows you to lay the tiles evenly. First you need to draw horizontal lines above the floor surface on the walls along the entire perimeter of the room. This will be the level at which the tiles are laid.

Leveling a concrete floor is an essential part of a major renovation, especially in older buildings and new builds.

The easiest way to level a concrete floor is to level the floors with beacons and fill the floor with sand-cement mortar. Beacons must be installed before pouring.

It is necessary to level the floor if you plan to lay tiles, laminate or linoleum. The work is hard, but it is quite possible to do it with your own hands without involving specialists for this. Leveling the floor must be done before repairing ceilings and walls.

There are several tricks on how to level the floor. The main ones are a self-leveling floor, leveling along beacons, leveling with cement mortar build-up. Alignment in each way can be done by hand. Each of these methods has its own positive and negative sides.

Concrete surface leveling and compaction.

You will need tools:

• level;
• rule;
• lighthouses;
• building thread;
• notched spatula;
• Master OK;
• construction hammer;
• needle roller;
• construction hammer;
• perforator.

And materials:

• roofing material, hydroisol or polystyrene;
• primer;
• concrete or sand-cement mortar.

In order to decide on the choice of leveling method, it is first necessary to disassemble the previously used floor covering (in case of repair) and measure the unevenness.

Causes of defects in slabs are their irregularities, bulges and depressions, longitudinal inconsistencies in slabs and irregularities in their laying, made during construction.

To begin with, all protruding irregularities (remnants of adhering concrete) should be removed. This is done using a construction hammer or perforator. After that, using a long level, you need to determine and mark the highest and lowest points on the base.

It must be foreseen that, taking into account the thickness of the intended floor covering, there will be no obstacles for opening the doors.

The device of a cement coupler on lighthouse rails.

There are cases when the floor plane is quite even, but there are irregularities in the joints of the floor tiles, due to the fact that the joints are not properly sealed. Irregularities can be removed with a perforator, and then the defects must be leveled with cement.

To level the floor as a mixture, you can use pure cement, mixed in the right proportion with sand. You can use mixtures that are designed specifically for leveling floors.

Before you level the surface, it should be prepared. It is necessary to remove existing paint, dust, repair cracks and microcracks through which expensive material can leak. The base should preferably be primed. The primer is necessary so that the thin layer of the screed does not crack. If you plan to level the base of the floor in the bathroom or in the kitchen with your own hands, the primer must be special, waterproofing.

Preparatory work does not require special qualifications, it is realistic to do it yourself.

Lighthouse Alignment

The device of a cement base for floors made of tile and roll materials: a - leveling the surface with wooden slats; b - rough grouting of the surface; c - final grouting of the surface; d - grinding the base under the floors.

Before starting work, you should determine the level of the screed so that, taking into account the thickness of the future coating, the floor levels in adjacent rooms coincide. In rooms on the ground floor it is mandatory, but on other floors it is desirable to isolate the screed from the walls. This can be done with roofing material, waterproofing, polystyrene. The insulating material is laid slightly above the future level of the screed, the excess is then cut off.

Lighthouses are metal slats, pipes, profiles or strips. Before installation on the walls using a level, preferably a laser, marks are made around the entire perimeter of the room. The room must be bypassed completely, while the initial mark and the final mark must necessarily coincide. This is a guarantee that the beacons will be set strictly horizontally.

Lighthouses are installed on a semi-dry concrete mortar or gypsum (alabaster) mortar and tapped. After the solution has set, it is necessary to check that the beacons have not moved. This must be done using a level, rule or construction thread.

The distance between the beacons and the walls should be minimal, but so that the beacons can be removed later.

Usually 4 beacons are stacked. Between the two middle ones, the solution is not placed at the beginning, but is placed from the walls, starting from the corner farthest from the exit. There is an exit path in the center.

The scheme of the concrete floor on the ground.

When the concrete solution is partially and with some excess over the lighthouses laid along the walls, it is pulled together by the rule to the end of the lighthouse. The beacon is then removed. So that he does not pull out the concrete behind him, you need to lightly tap on it with a hammer. The resulting void is filled with mortar and leveled with a trowel.

The problem that arises with this method is the abundance of air bubbles in the concrete screed, which makes it loose. A spiked paint roller is used to remove bubbles.

After that, the central part of the room is filled with a solution and pulled together.

With the help of lighthouses, a screed of large rooms is made. The screed is strong and perfectly even even with large differences in the concrete base. The best preparation for laying laminate, linoleum and tiles.

The disadvantage is that the screed can take quite a long time to dry. Drying time depends primarily on the humidity and temperature of the air in the room, the thickness of the screed layer. Drafts should be avoided during drying.

The use of self-leveling floor

Floor leveling plan.

This is the fastest and easiest way to do-it-yourself leveling a concrete floor base. A special cement-based leveling mortar is used for this. The solution is fairly fluid. It is enough to pour it on the concrete floor, and the solution itself will spread evenly, creating a perfectly flat surface. Therefore, the solution is called self-levelling. The drying process is quite fast due to the small thickness of the solution layer.

Bulk floors are irreplaceable for the device of heat-insulated floors.

According to the technology, the self-leveling floor must have a thickness of at least 3 millimeters; it will not be possible to achieve such a small thickness by leveling the lighthouses. But there is a limitation on the maximum thickness - 35 mm. Quite often, slabs or a rough screed have a slope of more than 35 mm.

Therefore, if there are large irregularities, it will not be possible to make a self-leveling floor.

Main disadvantages

In order to level the base of a sufficiently large area, you need to prepare the entire solution, otherwise you will not be able to get a flat surface. The flow time of the solution is from 20 to 60 minutes. In a short period, you need to have time to use the entire prepared mixture.

The fluidity of the solution is guaranteed at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees.

Another disadvantage is the rather high price of the material.

What to do if the thickness of the screed is 10 cm or more?

Such a situation may arise if in one of the adjacent rooms the wooden floor is mounted on logs, and in the second the floor covering is removed to the ground and it is planned to lay linoleum, laminate or tiles. The level difference can be up to 10 cm or more. Making a screed of this thickness is expensive and time consuming. This is an extra load on floor slabs, foundations and load-bearing structures. The simplest solution is to pre-lay a layer of foam plastic of maximum density and make a screed over it and finally level the floor. The screed can be reinforced at will.

Leveling the base of the floor is not an easy job, dusty, dirty and noisy. Therefore, before proceeding with it, all actions must be coordinated with the neighbors so that there are no problems with them. The main thing is not to be afraid of difficulties. With desire and perseverance, everything can be done with your own hands.