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Dieffenbachia diseases: how to help a tropical beauty. Dieffenbachia - on the leaves of the disease, pests, spots

1. Dieffenbachia leaves are almost all small and green (and should be 2/3 white), the same leaves, which, as expected, are colored, begin to turn green a week and a half after the appearance.

Answer: Shadow is a loose concept. The leaves may be small and green from lack of light. A shadow is not darkness, just direct rays should not fall. Most variegated plants with a lack of light lose their leaf spot. Or your land is bad. Try to feed it with fertilizers and transplant it into special soil (for green-leaved plants). And if you have an imported flower, there are almost always problems, because before the sale it grew in ideal conditions.

2. My Dieffenbachia has yellow leaves underneath. What is it connected with?

Answer: This may be from drafts, which Dieffenbachia does not tolerate (although not all varieties).

3. Dieffenbachia 3 years old, the trunk is bare, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Just old and time to cut?

Answer: Check if it is standing in a draft; leaves may well fall from this. In addition, perhaps she is simply cramped in a pot. Try repotting and adding good soil.

4. Dieffenbachia leaves are torn.

Answer: The problem of many aroid lovers. Opinions:

My huge Dieffenbachia has the same rigmarole: the leaf does not have time to come out of the sinus, but is already opening, as a result - torn edges. From what it was, no matter how much I looked for it, I didn’t find it, but I found a way to fight: when the new sheet is still tightly folded, I tie it with a soft thread so that it first comes out of the sinus, then I remove the thread, and it immediately unwinds without any damage. The main thing is not to trace the moment.

The fact is that the leaves grow faster than they have time to turn around. I began to grow normally after the introduction of urea and potassium-phosphorus fertilizer in a week. The leaves all unfolded, but some remained wavy, while the rest are growing normally.

And further. Such a misfortune occurs in the middle of autumn. Maybe he, thus, reacts to a change in lighting? Is he trying to reach up faster and therefore does not have time to unfold the leaves?

My Dieffenbachia's young leaves also unfolded strangely when she was in a draft. And the draft was quite small.

What is your reason - decide for yourself.

5. Dieffenbachia releases new leaves - variegated, and then they begin to turn green from the edges to the center. I thought that the lighting was to blame - but moving to another, brighter place did not help much.

Answer: This is a natural process - with age (after 7-8 months), the leaves become less variegated, the light center decreases, but the leaf does not turn green completely. If there is not enough lighting, then the young leaves will not be variegated. By the way, dieffenbachia can lose color both from a lack and from an excess of light, for example, when exposed to direct sunlight.

6. What does dieffenbachia love and what is it afraid of?

Answer: Dieffenbachia loves fairly humid air, although, regardless of humidity, the lower leaves eventually age and fall off. Dieffenbachia does not like drafts, dryness, hypothermia and overheating. Dieffenbachia, for all their seeming strength, fall into decay from cold or dry air, drafts, and, most importantly, cannot stand the hypothermia of an earthy coma. If she stands on the windowsill, she may catch a cold. When transplanting, you can remove part of the roots, the plant will grow more rapidly. It is noticed that the larger the pot, the larger the leaves.

7. How to root the process of dieffenbachia?

Answer: Dieffenbachia shoots take root, as a rule, simply - you can root the shoots in water (as an option - in a dark bottle), the roots appear in 2.5-3 weeks, do not forget to add fresh water. Or just in the ground. Plant immediately into the ground in a small pot, and as the roots appear at the bottom of the pot, into a decent-sized pot.

8. I have a piece of dieffenbachia trunk. But the trick is that I can't tell which is up and which is down.

Answer: If you don’t know where her “legs” are, I advise you to plant them “lying down”. If on a piece of the stem you can see from which side the kidney will grow, then turn this side up. Find a node. The kidney is a slightly elongated thickening near the node, it is slightly lighter than the trunk. So this kidney is right above (!) the node. And below the node, there are several smaller point bulges along the circumference, these are potential roots. Start from this "up" and "down".

9. Filled dieffenbachia, the roots are alive. What to do?

Answer: Cut off the top and root, check the remaining stump for nodes, from which there may be new leaves. If there is, cover the stump with a jar, but it is necessary to ventilate and water moderately.

10. The leaves began to turn yellow and dry, starting from the very tip. Maybe the pot is too big and the earth does not have time to dry out? But Dieffenbachia loves humidity. Tell me who knows what it could be.

Answer: Do the tips dry immediately, or turn yellow first? If the dry tip has a yellow rim, then this is from overflow. It is very difficult to adapt to a large pot. She, of course, loves humidity, but not in a pot, but in the air. Probably need to spray more often, and water less often. And yet - she terribly dislikes drafts (even small ones), that is, even a small stream of air from the gap is enough for her to react.

11. All new leaves come out with such difficulty and all are somehow twisted and small.

Answer: Perhaps she lacks light or nutrients. Did you transplant it or does it grow in peat? If you dare to transplant, check the roots. Perhaps nematodes have started up (leaves from this grow as if rumpled).

12. In dieffenbachia, the leaves "look" down, like withering!

Answer: I think yours looks like this. Still, a sluggish leaf - it is sluggish, and you have normal elastic leaves. New leaves become heavy as they grow (leaf size up to 50 cm) and hang. And in bush forms, the leaves really look up. It looks like a false palm tree and the leaves should be like that. In my opinion, there is no reason to worry, but it looks very cool.

13. Does she need a large pot, or does she prefer a cramped one?

Answer: The larger the pot, the larger the leaves will be. Dieffenbachia twists the roots of an earthen lump very quickly. Any plant is preferable not to a cramped pot, but a little more than the volume of the root system. If you are transferring a plant, then increase the pot in width and depth by 1-2 fingers - no more. If you plant with a cutting or transplant with the destruction of an earthen coma, then it is advisable to pick up a small container. It is better to transplant in six months into a large container than to ruin the plant with rotten roots ...

14. The lower leaves of the bush dieffenbachia began to turn yellow! At the same time, many new leaves appear. Do you think this is a natural process of the "old" dying off?

Answer: See how many leaves turn yellow. In principle, the yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves is a completely healthy natural process. You shouldn't worry.

15. Tell me, please, if it is necessary and possible to cut leaves with dried edges from Dieffenbachia.

Answer: Leaves will not turn green. There is a process: new leaves climb, and the old ones turn yellow and dry, this is natural. Of course, you can trim the dried edges, but carefully, along the edge, without affecting the living greenery.

16. Dieffenbachia leaves have a gray coating from water, although I wash the leaves regularly.

Answer: Specialists advise removing plaque with non-alcoholic beer, diluted in half with water. And just recently, someone shared a new recipe - use buttermilk.

17. Dieffenbachia grows crooked!

Answer: There is only one way out - to illuminate from above, or constantly twist. You can also tie tightly to something straight.

18. Something similar to a rash has formed on the leaves of dieffenbachia on the back of the leaves, and they begin to turn yellow and dry out. And - from the reverse side of the sheet I noticed small black crawling ones. Brown spots appeared on the leaves, the leaves wither, curl. What to do?

Answer: Black ones are either ticks (they are very small, rounded), or thrips (larger and elongated). Brown spots may be from spider mites. In any case, Actellik, Fitoverm or Agrovertin will help.

If there is nothing at hand, immediately wash the plant with soap (moreover, leave the soaped plant in the bathroom for 20 minutes), then rinse. But this, so to speak, is an ambulance, you still have to process it. You can infuse garlic (pour 10 g of garlic with 1 liter of cold water, leave for a day and spray, and always so that it falls on the underside of the leaf). Yes, and you will have to wash and process all the plants, plus window sill frames and everything they stand in (spider mites, for example, love all sorts of secluded places).

19. Dieffenbachia bloomed! It is better to cut it, how often do you do it with ornamental foliage plants?

Answer: It is important that the plant, which is kept for the sake of beautiful leaves, does not lose its main beauty. And flowering weakens it, the lower leaves become sluggish, the plant can go bald. So cut it off.

20. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, and not only in old leaves, but also in relatively new ones. This yellowness still captures the edge on some leaves.

Answer: Follow the watering of the plant. If the tips are immediately yellow and dry, this is from dryness (besides wiping, she needs spraying, in general, spraying is necessary for all plants in the heating season, well, except for cacti and succulents, of course). If the tips first turn brown and wet, and then dry out, this is an overflow. In addition, pest damage is not ruled out. The pest, in principle, is not so difficult to notice. For example, leaves turn yellow, but, as a rule, not only from the tips and edges, but can also be in the center, from a spider mite. Look at the reverse side of the sheet - the spider mite is the most difficult to identify: on the reverse side of the sheet, as if light, fine dust or grains of sand - you can take a magnifying glass or touch it with your finger - if you move, then it’s for sure.

Healthy dieffenbachia is distinguished by intensive growth and bright leaves of appropriate sizes and colors for the variety. If the plant loses its attractiveness and starts to hurt, this is most often associated with care errors, violations of the temperature or water regime. Let us consider in more detail why dieffenbachia is sick and what measures must be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.

Dieffenbachia pests

Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are quite often affected by pests.

The most common:

Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.

Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunting, curling and drying of the leaves.

Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.

The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on dieffenbachia is particularly facilitated by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).

Scale insects and false scale insects that suck juice from leaves and stems, leaving characteristic secretions, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry and fall off.

Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, affecting leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves are deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Measures to combat all of the listed dieffenbachia pests are similar, they consist in their mechanical removal with a sponge and a soapy solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treating, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.

Dieffenbachia diseases

Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, of which the most common are:

leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edge of the leaves, primarily the lower, small brown spots with an orange border, gradually capturing the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted with plant debris and water.

Anthracnose, in which sufficiently large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading to the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected parts of plants.

Both diseases provoke high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil, as control measures it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationol or Vitaros.

Fusarium, affects the root neck and the root of the flower, where dark depressed elongated spots are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and withers. On the damaged areas, you can see the light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil for a long time, spreads when diseased and healthy plant roots are touched. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.

For the prevention of fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladin). When signs of the disease appear, spraying with a systemic fungicide is carried out.

root rot, which manifests itself in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and later lodging and death of the plant. The affected areas are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil, it is promoted by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperatures. If there are signs of damage, watering is limited, the substrate is replaced and treated with a systemic fungicide.

Of the bacterial diseases, we note the Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. In the future, they become brown or brown. The disease spreads through infected plant residues during mechanical damage, for example, when cuttings. Flowers that are kept at elevated temperature and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizers in the soil, are more affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.

Viral diseases include:

Bronzing dieffenbachia, which manifests itself in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither, while remaining hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.

Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spot.

Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated, and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is transmitted by insects, thrips (bronze) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is insecticide treatment.

Dieffenbachia diseases: general information

Quite often, lovers of indoor flowers notice how the leaves of a tropical beauty turn yellow. The first thing that comes to mind is the wrong care. But this happens even to the most dedicated flower growers. Dieffenbachia diseases occur for various reasons, the main thing is to start treatment on time.

Another problem of the plant is the drying and falling of the lower leaf plates. Since they are the main decoration of the flower, it is not very pleasant to watch their loss. In some cases, the cause is the natural process of plant development, which even the most competent grower cannot stop. But if young plates fall off, it is worth thinking about the possible dieffenbachia disease and methods of timely treatment.

A rather unpleasant sight when a beloved flower lowers its once lush leaves and takes on a miserable appearance. Dieffenbachia wilts for various reasons, but this appearance is a call to action. In addition, brown spots, drops of unknown origin, or even non-opening leaves may appear on the plant. Let us consider in detail the possible causes and methods of treating dieffenbachia diseases.

If small children live in the house, an exotic flower can be planted in the office. Such a cute "neighbor" will decorate the room with lush greenery and will always be a reason for joy.

Brown spots on the leaves: causes and methods of struggle

In one wise book, the simple truth is written that all living things suffer from diseases. We observe the veracity of these words every day. Unfortunately, plants also get sick and the tropical beauty is no exception. Studies show that it is prone to fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. One of them appears when brown spots form on the leaves of diffebachia, around which there is an orange border. Over time, they spread to the entire leaf, as a result of which it dies.

The main causes of the disease are caused by such factors:

high room temperature;
humidity fluctuations;
over watering the plant.

If the rules of care are followed and the listed points are not observed, then the plant is affected by a serious disease:

With such problems, brown spots appear on the leaves, framed by a dark line. A fungicide solution will help get rid of the disease, which should be sprayed on the infected plant.

In order for Dieffenbachia to receive enough moisture from the air, it must be “settle” away from direct sunlight, and in the cold season, from central heating.

The best option for growing dieffenbachia is the eastern side of an apartment or house. Away from the sun that burns its tender leaves.

Sheet plates do not open: a wise solution to the problem

For several decades, dieffenbachia has gained particular popularity. It can be found in the corridors of clinics and hospitals, offices, educational institutions and even train stations. The main reason is simple care, which consists in such activities:

regular soil moisture;
spraying of leaf plates;
growing plants away from drafts;
room temperature control;
the right choice of habitat (away from direct sunlight).

Despite this, the plant can get sick. Sometimes it happens that Dieffenbachia leaves do not open, as a result of which its beauty is lost. Often the reason lies in such factors:

direct sunlight falls on it;
drafts, which lead to sudden changes in temperature;
root rot due to excessive moisture;
low level of humidity in the room;
lack of useful elements.

Damage to the plant by pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, or aphids should not be excluded. If "enemies" are found, the flower should be treated with soapy water. If that doesn't work, use insecticides.

Dieffenbachia "cries" and does not grow

Often, if the plant is not sick, it is distinguished by lush greenery, intensive growth and bright color of the plates. But as soon as lethargy appears, the color changes and Dieffenbachia does not grow, it's time to sound the alarm. Perhaps the cause was pests or viral diseases carried by insects. As a result, yellow or brown spots form on the leaf plates, which adversely affect the growth of the flower. Coping with the disease can be difficult, so the best way out is to start a new plant, and say goodbye to this.

Sometimes the following factors also influence the growth of dieffenbachia:

lack of light;
"drought" on the soil;
the need for nourishment.

An attentive attitude to the flower and simple actions will help to eliminate problems:

moving to another location;
regular moistening of the topsoil;
the use of special fertilizers for dieffenbachia.

Unfortunately, each of us tends to go to extremes. Therefore, excessive watering can lead to root rot and the appearance of drops on dieffenbachia. Interestingly, in such an extraordinary way, the flower compensates for excess moisture. Such droplets on the leaves are also found during periods of heavy rains. So the plant protects itself from excess fluid.

Another reason for the appearance of wateriness on leaf plates is bacteriosis. At first, small droplets of moisture may not cause concern, but if they are delineated by a visible border, it's time to sound the alarm. Subsequently, the foliage becomes brown and dies. It is better to destroy such a plant in order to prevent the spread of the disease to other indoor flowers.

Beware of dieffenbachia!

Despite its attractiveness, the cute tropical beauty belongs to poisonous plants. The juice secreted by the plant leads to minor damage to the skin. But if it gets on the mucous tissue of the mouth or eyes, a burn occurs. In rare cases, complete intoxication of the body can occur, which manifests itself as follows:

swelling of the oral tissues and lips;
profuse salivation;
frequent breathing;
vomit;
diarrhea;
temperature increase;
tearing.

First aid for dieffenbachia burns, and treatment consists of simple steps. First you need to rinse the affected area of \u200b\u200bthe skin with running water. In case of pain, a solution of lidocaine is applied to the burn. If the juice gets on the eyeball, then the affected eye is washed with running water for about 20 minutes. Then use Levomycetin drops or furatsilina solution to prevent infection.

Burns received from dieffenbachia juice in the oral cavity are removed due to the rinsing procedure. Clearly expressed pain can be quenched with a solution of novocaine (0.5%). After these actions, it is recommended to drink a glass of cold milk or water. In any case, when a problem arises, it is important not to waste time, but to act.

Why dieffenbachia turns yellow - video

Dieffenbachia spotted is my favorite plant. A herbaceous plant native to the tropics with large showy leaves, up to forty centimeters long. In my room, I grew a flower of 2 meters, but below the leaves began to fall off, and the plant begins to resemble some kind of palm tree.
To avoid this, I started trimming the leaves. DO NOT forget that dieffenbachia juice irritates the skin and mucous membranes, so be sure to wash your hands with soap after trimming (personal example).
Watering: from spring to autumn, I water my dieffenbachia abundantly, every other day for sure. And in winter I rarely water it, it is necessary to water it with cool water in summer, and lukewarm water in winter. The soil is kept slightly moist at all times, but should not be too damp. Before watering, I let the water stand (2 days) so that the water becomes soft.
Reproduction: I am very bad at propagating, so my mother does it all for me: She cuts the trunks of 5-7 cm, which are rooted with soil heating at 30 °. Some forms give child shoots, the mother cuts and roots them. To rejuvenate the plant, I cut off the top with part of the trunk, as a result, it takes root well.
Care features: I wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth (2 times a week)
Transplantation: Every year in the spring - better at the end of April, I transplant a flower (required). The soil is black soil, it would be nice to add a little charcoal (do it carefully and gently). Good luck! if so, ask)

How to grow a beautiful dieffenbachia

Blog florist Ilyukh777

Comments

We noticed that in the room in which dieffenbachia grows, it is difficult to sleep, the head hurts in the morning. Then we learned that at night it absorbs oxygen. This plant is not for the bedroom.

Yes? And I have one of the two Dieffenbachia is in the bedroom. Of course, I did not notice the problems associated with it, but since it has such a property - to absorb oxygen - I'd better transfer it to the living room.

I don't want to scare you, of course, but I'll tell you a little secret. All plants absorb oxygen at night and release carbon dioxide. The process of photosynthesis (or the absorption of carbon dioxide and the release of oxygen) occurs only in the light.

Dieffenbachia: home care

Dieffenbachia (lat. Dieffenbachia) is a fairly popular indoor plant from the Aroid family. Its homeland is tropical forests in South and Central America. The flower became famous thanks to the Australian-born botanist Heinrich Schott. He named this plant after Josef Dieffenbach, a gardener from Schönbrun Palace (in Vienna).

In room conditions, the plant has been cultivated for over 150 years. The flower is used for landscaping houses, apartments, offices, shopping galleries, libraries and other public places. The flower attracts attention thanks to a beautiful, compact bush and variegated bright leaves. Many flower growers dream of having such a plant at home.

flower description

In room conditions, some types of dieffenbachia reach two meters in height. The root system is powerful, branched. At the top of the flower and at the base of the stem, growth points are visible for the development of new shoots. From the points of shoot formation, fleshy, straight, thick green stems are formed. In some plant species, a leafy cap forms at the top of the stem, while in others, opposite leaves grow throughout the stem.

The leaves are wide, large, pointed or rounded at the edges, covered with a unique pattern. They show lighter blotches, stripes, spots, streaks of yellow, beige, light green, pink and white shades. The length of the leaves in some varieties reaches 60 centimeters, a width of 40 centimeters.

Depending on the form, dieffenbachia are divided into tree and shrub.

The tree-like variety has a strong and thick trunk, there are no branches. The trunk is exposed when the flower matures. An adult flower is similar to a palm tree.

The shrub variety of dieffenbachia is low. It has branched stems and many leaves. Leaves form near the base of the trunk. The bushes are voluminous, dense.

Inflorescences in all species look like cobs, surrounded by a creamy green petal. The fruits that emerge from the flowers are orange or red berries.

Species and varieties with photos

In nature, there are about 50 species of dieffenbachia, but only a third of the total number of plants is suitable for growing at home. They, in turn, differ in the shape, size and color of the plant. Today, there are a large number of new varieties and hybrids, which sometimes do not fit any specific description.

Spotted or Painted

The most popular type of dieffenbachia is Spotted or Painted, it is also the ancestor of other species of this plant. It includes 17 different varieties, such as: Camilla, Compact and others.

The spotted dieffenbachia has a large green trunk. The stem grows 40-45 centimeters in height in one year. Reaching one meter, the growth of the plant stops.

Leaves reach 45-50 centimeters in length and 13-15 centimeters in width. Oblong, pointed green leaves. The pattern on the leaves combines white and yellowish spots of irregular shape and clear stripes. To the touch, the foliage is rough, smooth or covered with convex patterns. The surface is glossy or matte. Dieffenbachia rarely blooms indoors. If this happened, then the white-yellow, small flowers are practically invisible against the background of the leaves. The flower pot should be placed at some distance from the window.

The most common color is marble. It can be identified by color transitions from pale green to dark green shades. These include hybrids of Bauze and Bauman.

You can also find a different color when the leaf is colorless in the middle (due to the lack of chlorophyll), and the edges are painted with a contrasting color.

Variety Mars is a variety of Spotted dieffenbachia. The leaves are dark green, decorated with a marble light pattern of dots and strokes, merging into a common tone. The variety does not respond well to organic fertilizers and drafts.

dieffenbachia maroba

Dieffenbachia Maroba is similar in color to Mars, but has wide, slightly ribbed, shiny leaves.

Dieffenbachia Seguina

Dieffenbachia Seguin is considered a common species. This is a bushy species with large, wide, dark green foliage with slightly pronounced yellow jagged stains in the middle of the leaf and a small number of veins. Compared to the spotted dieffenbachia, the foliage of this species is smaller in size. Few side veins. Petioles are shortened.

This species is used to breed new varieties, hybrids, such as: Tropic Snow, Green Magic.

Tropic Snow

Tropic Snow grows up to 80 centimeters in height. The leaves have large white spots.

Green Magic

A distinctive feature of the Green Magic variety is a bright white central vein on the leaf and a dark green background. Often it is complemented by light, thin lateral veins. The background is even, without inclusions. The leaves are shiny, dense, large. The shape is almost oval, with a slight sharpening.

Dieffenbachia Mix

A common bush species is Dieffenbachia Mix. This is a low-growing species with a variety of foliage colors. The base tone of the leaf is light green.

dieffenbachia bush

Dieffenbachia bush is one of the most unpretentious representatives. The flower grows up to 70 centimeters. Foliage color is light green. A large white vein is visible in the middle. Externally, the flower is similar to Dieffenbachia Leopold.

Dieffenbachia Leopold

Leopolda is a dwarf dieffenbachia with dark green ellipsoid-shaped leaves. The length of the trunk reaches 5 centimeters, the diameter does not exceed 2 centimeters. Shoots are fleshy, short with burgundy and light green stains. Dark green leaves of an ellipsoid shape, wide, up to 30-35 centimeters long, up to 15 centimeters wide.

The central vein is white, wide. Petioles are short, pale green with a lilac tint. The inflorescence is an ear no more than 9 centimeters in size, covered with a white petal 17 centimeters long.

Camilla is a tall plant with succulent green lanceolate leaves that are edged with light or dark tones of green and a beige or white center. With age, white spots on the leaves disappear. The flower grows up to two meters in height. The stem is strong. The plant adapts to both humid and dry indoor air. The best place for a flower will be a shaded corner.

Dieffenbachia Reflector

Dieffenbachia Reflector is demanding on the conditions of detention and care. The flower is distinguished by camouflage coloring of velvety foliage. Yellowish or green spots on a dark green background are stretched along the lateral veins or have a rounded shape. A white stripe runs down the middle of the sheet.

With good care, the plant bushes. The color of the leaves changes with different lighting and viewing angles. The variety is moisture-loving, afraid of the cold.

Compacta is a small dense bush with green foliage. The plant is similar in appearance to the Camilla variety, but is distinguished by a white intermittent stripe in the middle.

Inclusions of the main color in the form of islands, specks. Petioles are short. Near the central furrow, beige spots are visible along the entire length of the leaf.

Oersted is a plant with heart-shaped or pointed leaves. In length, the leaves reach 30-35 centimeters. The color is light green or dark with a metallic sheen of gray-green. A light stripe is visible along the central vein.

Home care

At home, dieffenbachia grows in a humid and hot environment. In order for the plant to grow and delight with its beauty in indoor conditions, it needs to provide proper care.
During active growth, the flower needs more attention.

During the dormant period, due to the reduction of daylight hours, flower care changes. If you continue active care, new small leaves appear that spoil the whole appearance.

A new leaf appears on the flower every week. In order for the plant to grow quickly and please with its beauty, it needs to provide good lighting. Dieffenbachia is not afraid of the shadow, but responds favorably to sufficient lighting. Direct sunlight when placing a pot with a plant should not fall on it. Best of all, the flower grows on the southeast or east side.

Large-growing varieties are best placed near daylight or shielded from light with a curtain or white paper.

Proper Dieffenbachia Care: Video

Temperature

In spring and summer, the optimum temperature for dieffenbachia is 20-22 degrees. The plant can withstand temperatures up to 30 degrees, but the humidity must be high.

In winter, the plant must be kept at a temperature equal to 16-18 degrees. At lower temperatures, the flower loses the lower leaves. Sudden changes in temperature adversely affect its condition.

Watering is carried out with settled or purified, warm water. The frequency of watering directly depends on the time of year. In winter, watering is done as the soil dries up, in summer - more often. The land in summer should always be wet, but not swampy.

The air in the room should be humid and warm. In dry air, moist expanded clay, sand, perlite or moss should be poured into the plant tray. You can put a container of water nearby.

For additional moisture, the plant is sprayed from a spray bottle. The dust accumulated on the leaves is wiped with a damp sponge once a week.

The soil for Dieffenbachia can be bought ready-made or made independently. The earth must have a slightly acidic environment. To do this, you need to take: 4 parts of sod land, part of leafy soil, part of peat and part of sand. The mixture is stirred and distributed among the pots. As a drainage, you can take vermiculite, coarse sand, fine gravel, expanded clay.

Transplant (how to transplant with a long trunk)

If the leaves lose color, elasticity and fall off, then this is a clear sign of a cramped pot. The plant needs a transplant.

Dieffenbachia is transplanted once a year. An adult plant is transplanted at least once every 2-4 years. The best time for this is February - May. In the summer, in the heat, it is better not to do this.

The roots of the flower are brittle, this procedure must be done carefully. The pot should be taken 2-3 centimeters larger than the previous one.

Old and bare plants with a long trunk are cut off.

The flower is carefully removed from the pot and, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a larger container with a fresh substrate.

Fertilize the plant in spring and summer, once every 2 weeks. For this, mineral and organic fertilizers are taken in low concentration. In winter, during the dormant period, the plant does not need to be fed.

How dieffenbachia blooms photo

The flower blooms only in spring, flowering lasts a couple of days. Flowering occurs during April and early May. The growth of the plant will then stop. Leaves may fall from below. All forces are directed to the development of flowers. If this is a variety with inconspicuous flowers, it is better to cut them off immediately.

Cob-shaped inflorescences, similar to callas or water lilies, are covered with a creamy green petal. In some species of dieffenbachia, the flowers are inconspicuous and are lost among the foliage. A wilted flower stays on the stem for a long time.

How to crop

If the plant has a long bare trunk with a rare bunch of leaves at the top, the flower needs to be pruned. The stem is cut at a height of 10 centimeters from the base. A knot should remain below the cut point. New shoots will grow from it, which can later be transplanted. The cut stem can be divided into parts (leaving growth points) and sent for propagation.

reproduction

To breed a flower, you need to cut off the top of an adult plant, dry the cut and sprinkle with crushed activated charcoal. The cutting is lowered into a jar of water. Kornevin, Zircon or any other growth stimulator is added to the water. The temperature in the room for germinating a flower should be at least 20 degrees Celsius. After the appearance of the roots, the plant can be planted in the ground.

A pot with drainage holes is taken, a layer of expanded clay, broken brick or perlite is poured onto the bottom, carefully mixed soil is poured on top. The earth is shed with a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and after the excess moisture drains, the flower is planted. With proper care, the plant quickly grows and grows.

Dieffenbachia can also be propagated by seed and air layering, but this is time consuming and labor intensive and therefore less commonly used.

In order for a plant to propagate by seeds, it must be pollinated. The female flowers are at the bottom and the male flowers are at the top. The female flowers are covered by the bottom of the petal. For pollination, you need to cut the petal-veil and place pollen from the inflorescence there with a soft brush, the incision is sealed with tape. After the flower withers, the berries will ripen on the cob. After wrinkling them, you can collect the seeds and sow them in the soil.

For air layers, if there are no adventitious roots on the stem, notches are made. This section of the trunk is covered with wet sphagnum moss and covered with an opaque film. After the appearance of the roots, the film is removed, the stem is cut off along with the moss. The plant is separated from the parent stem below the roots and planted in the substrate.

Pruning and rooting dieffenbachia: video

Diseases and pests

If the leaves lose color, grow slowly, lose elasticity, deform and fall, you need to pay attention to the temperature of the flower content, lighting, watering, top dressing and pot size. If all these indicators are normal, then it is quite possible that the plant is damaged by such diseases as: root and brown rot, bacteriosis, anthracnose, bronze, fusarium, viral leaf mosaic.

If dieffenbachia is affected by various diseases or pests, such as: spider mites, scale insects, thrips, aphids and mealybugs, then the flower must be removed from other flowers and its treatment should begin. To do this, take a solution of laundry soap. The leaves are wiped with a solution on both sides. Then the flower is sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, Karbofos, Aktellik or any other protective preparations.

A severely affected plant can be transplanted or cut off; if this does not help, the flower must be thrown away.

Growing problems

If the plant is grown in inappropriate conditions or its care does not meet the standards, the flower changes its appearance, begins to wither, this is manifested by various signs.

Why leaves turn yellow

Excessive watering, hard water, sunburn, lack of space in the pot lead to yellowing of the foliage. Drafts and proximity to heating radiators can also harm the flower, while the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

If the leaves begin to lose color, it is possible that direct sunlight is falling on them, which discolors them.

Illumination in summer through a thin curtain is optimal for the plant. In winter, the flower needs additional illumination. The duration of a daylight hours should be about 10-12 hours.

If the leaves turn yellow, the stem becomes soft, begins to rot, then this indicates improper watering and temperature. Reducing the amount of watering and increasing the air temperature can correct the problem. Damaged areas are trimmed and sprinkled with charcoal. The soil in the pot must be replaced with a new one. If the plant is severely damaged, the healthy part is cut off and rooted in water.

The leaves of the plant also turn yellow when affected by spider mites, scale insects and aphids. Pests feed on the juices of the flower, gradually destroying it.

Ticks can be recognized by small dots on the leaves. Frequent spraying and wiping the leaves with a damp cloth helps protect the plant from the pest.

The shield is located on the stems, veins and forms brown spots on the leaves. The pest is removed with an alcohol-soap solution.

Aphids are removed from the plant with soapy water. In case of severe damage, chemical preparations are used.

Leaves dry

The leaves dry due to large temperature changes, dry soil in a pot. If young leaves dry and fall off, then this indicates low temperatures and a draft. Normalization of containment conditions avoids this problem.

Leaves dry and due to bacteriosis. The disease manifests itself as weeping ulcers and spots with an unpleasant odor. The disease is not treatable. Such a plant is removed, and the pot from under it is disinfected.

The leaves curl or do not open as they grow, due to watering with cold water. Water for watering a flower should be settled during the day.

Also, the leaves can dry and fall off due to the natural aging processes of the flower, the problem is eliminated by planting the flower.

Dry tips of leaves

The tips dry on leaves that have a lower location. This situation is a sign of natural aging. If the process has affected all the leaves, then this is a sign that the flower is suffering from a lack of moisture, dry air and high room temperature. The plant needs to be sprayed more often, removed from heating radiators.

Leaves wither

If Dieffenbachia wilts, then Fusarium may be the cause. The causative agents of this disease are in the ground, affect the roots, brown elongated spots appear on the trunk and leaves, the plant withers. To combat Fusarium, the plant must be transplanted into another pot, the rot is removed from the roots, and the affected areas are treated with a fungicide.

Anthracnose forms black-brown spots on the leaves with a yellow border. Leaves wither with a strong defeat. The disease appears due to excessive watering, high room temperature and dry air. To get rid of the disease, you need to normalize the watering and temperature regime. Diseased leaves are treated with a fungicide.

Root rot first affects the roots, then affects the trunk, the plant withers and dies. It appears with an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil. If the plant is affected by rot, the plant must be transplanted, the roots should be cut, removing the affected areas, and treated with a fungicide. Watering is reduced.

Why is dieffenbachia crying

With frequent watering, high humidity, a sharp change in air pressure and in cloudy weather, the plant cries. This is due to the high humidity in the air. The leaves at the same time evaporate little moisture, and the roots from the soil absorb a lot of moisture. When the air is moist, the water secreted by the plant rolls off the leaves in drops. To reduce crying, you need to reduce the watering of the flower.

Why do leaves curl

If the leaves curl up, you need to check if there is a draft in the room. If the air temperature drops to 10 degrees, then the flower will not be able to actively develop.

Can you keep it at home?

Dieffenbachia is an attractive and unpretentious plant with beneficial properties for health. If there is a flower in the room, a headache, fatigue, and a surge of energy are noted near it. The flower is considered an excellent air purifier.

Is it poisonous?

The only disadvantage of the plant is its toxicity. The fleshy stems of the flower contain a thick white juice that causes burns to the skin and mucous membranes upon contact. In a house with small children and pets, it is better not to start a plant. When transplanting, pruning plants, you need to wear gloves.

Signs and superstitions

The plant enriches the room with positive energy, brings a positive attitude, invigorates. This flower can be started by people striving for victories and new achievements. With the help of a flower, you can resist the machinations of enemies, quickly find a way out of any situation. The flower can be kept both in the house and in the office, where various issues and problems are often solved. The plant helps to find the right solutions in controversial issues.

Dieffenbachia women will keep youth and beauty, soothes. The best place to place a flower is an office and a kitchen. It is not recommended to put it in the bedroom and living room.

In addition to the positive impact, there is also a negative impact of the flower.

There is a belief that where this flower grows, there are rarely guests. They feel the negative energy of dieffenbachia, try to leave faster and not return.

Girls of marriageable age cannot find a groom for a long time.

The flower is considered a husband, he expels males from the house.

This plant harms men, weakening their potency, making them infertile. At the same time, the family cannot have children for a long time. Husbands begin to cheat and leave their wives.

If the plant bloomed, this indicates an unfavorable environment in the house. Dieffenbachia blooms when something needs to be changed in the house. The plant sheds its leaves and begins to rot.

Dieffenbachia care is not very difficult. Knowing all the rules for care, you can grow a beautiful and bright flower at home. This plant is surrounded by various beliefs, but its beauty is mesmerizing and many flower growers, no matter what, bring it to their home.

Frequently Asked Questions: Dieffenbachia

1. Dieffenbachia leaves are almost all small and green (and should be 2/3 white), the same leaves, which, as expected, are colored, begin to turn green a week and a half after the appearance.

Answer: Shadow is a loose concept. The leaves may be small and green from lack of light. Shadow is not darkness, just direct rays should not fall. Most variegated plants with a lack of light lose their leaf spot. Or your land is bad. Try to feed it with fertilizers and transplant it into special soil (for green-leaved plants). And if you have an imported flower, there are almost always problems, because before the sale it grew in ideal conditions.

2. My Dieffenbachia has yellow leaves underneath. What is it connected with?

Answer: This may be from drafts, which Dieffenbachia does not tolerate (although not all varieties).

3. Dieffenbachia 3 years old, the trunk is bare, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Just old and time to cut?

Answer: Check if it is standing in a draft; leaves may well fall from this. In addition, perhaps she is simply cramped in a pot. Try repotting and adding good soil.

4. Dieffenbachia leaves are torn.

Answer: The problem of many aroid lovers. Opinions:

My huge dieffenbachia has the same rigmarole: the leaf does not have time to come out of the sinus, but is already opening, as a result - torn edges. From what it was, no matter how much I looked for it, I didn’t find it, but I found a way to fight: when the new sheet is still tightly folded, I tie it with a soft thread so that it first comes out of the sinus, then I remove the thread, and it immediately unwinds without any damage. The main thing is not to trace the moment.

And further. Such a misfortune occurs in the middle of autumn. Maybe he, thus, reacts to a change in lighting? Is he trying to reach up faster and therefore does not have time to unfold the leaves?

My Dieffenbachia's young leaves also unfolded strangely when she was in a draft. And the draft was quite small.

What is your reason - decide for yourself.

6. What does dieffenbachia love and what is it afraid of?

Answer: Dieffenbachia loves fairly humid air, although, regardless of humidity, the lower leaves eventually age and fall off. Dieffenbachia does not like drafts, dryness, hypothermia and overheating. Dieffenbachia, for all their seeming strength, decline from cold or dry air, drafts, and, most importantly, cannot stand the hypothermia of an earthy coma. If she stands on the windowsill, she may catch a cold. When transplanting, you can remove part of the roots, the plant will grow more rapidly. It is noticed that the larger the pot, the larger the leaves.

7. How to root the process of dieffenbachia?

8. I have a piece of dieffenbachia trunk. But the trick is that I can't tell which is up and which is down.

Answer: If you don’t know where her “legs” are, I advise you to plant them “lying down”. If on a piece of the stem you can see from which side the kidney will grow, then turn this side up. Find a node. The kidney is a slightly elongated thickening near the node, it is slightly lighter than the trunk. So this kidney is immediately above (!) the node. And below the node, there are several smaller point bulges along the circumference, these are potential roots. Start from this "up" and "down".

9. Filled dieffenbachia, the roots are alive. What to do?

11. All new leaves come out with such difficulty and all are somehow twisted and small.

12. In dieffenbachia, the leaves “look” down, like withering!

13. Does she need a large pot, or does she prefer a cramped one?

Answer: The larger the pot, the larger the leaves will be. Dieffenbachia twists the roots of an earthen ball very quickly. Any plant is preferable not to a cramped pot, but a little more than the volume of the root system. If you are transferring a plant, then increase the pot in width and depth by 1-2 fingers - no more. If you plant with a cutting or transplant with the destruction of an earthen coma, then it is advisable to pick up a small container. It is better to transplant in six months into a large container than to ruin the plant with rotten roots.

14. The lower leaves of the bush dieffenbachia began to turn yellow! At the same time, many new leaves appear. Do you think this is a natural process of dying off the “old” ones?

Answer: See how many leaves turn yellow. In principle, the yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves is a completely healthy natural process. You shouldn't worry.

15. Tell me, please, if it is necessary and possible to cut leaves with dried edges from Dieffenbachia.

16. Dieffenbachia leaves have a gray coating from water, although I wash the leaves regularly.

Answer: Specialists advise removing plaque with non-alcoholic beer, diluted in half with water. And just recently, someone shared a new recipe - use buttermilk.

17. Dieffenbachia grows crooked!

Answer: There is only one way out - to illuminate from above, or constantly twist. You can also tie tightly to something straight.

18. Something similar to a rash has formed on the leaves of dieffenbachia on the back of the leaves, and they begin to turn yellow and dry out. And - on the reverse side of the sheet, I noticed small black crawling ones. Brown spots appeared on the leaves, the leaves wither, curl. What to do?

19. Dieffenbachia bloomed! It is better to cut it, how often do you do it with ornamental foliage plants?

20. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, and not only in old leaves, but also in relatively new ones. This yellowness still captures the edge on some leaves.

Answer: Follow the watering of the plant. If the tips are immediately yellow and dry, this is from dryness (besides rubbing, she needs spraying, in general, during the heating season, spraying is necessary in any case for all plants, well, except for cacti and succulents, of course). If the tips first turn brown and wet, and then dry out, this is an overflow. In addition, pest damage is not ruled out. The pest, in principle, is not so difficult to notice. For example, leaves turn yellow, but, as a rule, not only from the tips and edges, but can also be in the center, from a spider mite. Look from the reverse side of the sheet - the spider mite is the most difficult to identify: on the reverse side of the sheet, as if there is light fine dust or grains of sand - you can take a magnifying glass or touch it with your finger - if you move, then it’s for sure.

www.flowers.bitrix.ru

Causes of yellowing dieffenbachia leaves

Dieffenbachia quickly reacts to changing conditions of detention by worsening its appearance. Its leaves often turn yellow, and sometimes even experienced flower growers cannot name the reason for this with certainty.

Indeed, the yellowing of the leaves is caused by many factors: very bright lighting, excessive watering, changes in temperature and humidity, pest attacks, and some others.

In the article, you will learn what to do if the leaves of dieffenbachia turn yellow, and you will also see the reasons why this happens.

direct sunlight

When direct sunlight hits the Dieffenbachia leaves, yellow-brown burns are formed, which lead to yellowing and drying of the entire leaf.

It should be remembered that Dieffenbachia should not be kept in the sun, but in partial shade..

In summer, the plant should be placed on the southeast window, where the sun's rays will fall on it only in the morning.

Here the lighting will be sufficient for good growth, but without direct sun. If this is not possible and Dieffenbachia grows on the south window, in order to avoid burns, it must be shaded.

In winter, the flower requires fairly intense lighting. It is better to rearrange it on the most illuminated window sill. The winter sun's rays will not harm the flower; you should not be afraid of the direct sun in the cold season.

Strong hydration

In case of decay, Dieffenbachia needs an emergency transplant and reduced watering. and sometimes that doesn't help either. We have to cut and root the surviving tops.

To protect the plant from decay, it is necessary to strictly observe the mode of watering it. You can not fill the flower, but you should not overdry the earthen ball, as this can cause the death of the plant. Keeping the soil moist but not wet is easy enough. Watering is carried out only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Sometimes plants turn yellow as a result of root rot and with the correct watering regimen. This happens when the composition of the soil is incorrectly selected. Dieffenbachia soil should be light. In heavy soils, stagnant water and rotting of the roots are possible.

Low air humidity

With insufficient watering and low humidity, Dieffenbachia leaves begin to turn yellow from below. First, the tips turn yellow, then the entire leaf blade. Such plates eventually dry out and fall off. Often this is accompanied by a loss of color and lightening of the upper leaves.

Often in a city apartment it is difficult to create the necessary air humidity for dieffenbachia. In summer, the room is quite hot and dry, in winter, during the heating season, the air is strongly dried by radiators. Therefore, for many inexperienced flower growers, dieffenbachia is a long bare trunk with several leaves at the top.

In order for the plant to retain its beauty, regular watering and spraying is not enough. It is useful to place it in a tray with a wet substrate: expanded clay, sand or moss. The substrate will humidify the air near the plant, as well as help preserve its green mass.

Decrease in temperature and draft

Dieffenbachia is a thermophilic tropical plant. At low temperatures, dieffenbachia can drop all leaves(especially with a sharp drop in temperature).

The leaves turn yellow very quickly throughout the plant and fall off, except for the top ones.

The reaction of dieffenbachia to a draft is drying and yellowing of the tips of the leaves. If such symptoms occur, you need to remove the plant away from opening windows, otherwise it may turn completely yellow, and then lose all foliage.

Dieffenbachia can also react when kept in an air-conditioned room. Being near the air conditioner under a stream of cold air, it will certainly shed its leaves and lose its beautiful appearance.

In very small pots, the plant becomes so crowded that it can no longer fully develop. At the same time, its growth slows down, it does not give new shoots, its leaves begin to turn yellow, starting from the bottom. Regular transplanting to a new land helps to maintain the decorative appearance of Dieffenbachia..

The plant has a fairly powerful root system, which grows rapidly in the first years of life. Therefore, young plants must be transplanted annually into new land and a larger pot. With regular transplantation, the flower retains most of its leaves, losing only the lowest ones. If you skip the transplant, then this will immediately affect the appearance of the young plant, the leaves of which will begin to turn yellow and die.

Causes of yellowing of cycas leaves

Causes and consequences of yellowing of zamiokulkas leaves

Causes of yellowing of Kalanchoe leaves and their solution

Mature plants over 5 years old can be repotted less often, as their root system grows much more slowly and fills the pot only every 2-3 years. But if the Dieffenbachia began to turn yellow and fall off the leaves, it is necessary to transplant it, as it can lose its leaf mass, which is very difficult to restore.

Pest infestation

When a spider mite is damaged, yellow spots first appear on the leaves of the plant, which then capture the entire leaf plate.

This pest is easy to detect on the underside of the leaves, which may be completely covered with fine cobwebs. Usually, treatment with special chemicals allows you to quickly destroy the pest.

Already yellowed plates are not restored. Over time, they dry up and fall off. But the elimination of errors in the care of the plant will lead to the growth of young healthy greenery.

Bush varieties will become lush and green in color. Old tall plants that have lost their leaves are best updated by cutting and rooting the tops. After that, new plants need to create optimal conditions for growth and development.

Other causes of yellowing of dieffenbachia leaves

Consider other likely causes of yellow leaves in Dieffenbachia.

lack of lighting

Dieffenbachia leaves can turn yellow not only with an excess, but also with a lack of lighting. If you keep the plant in partial shade, very soon it will begin to shed its leaves. First, the lowest leaf blades will turn yellow and fall off, then the flower will lose most of the green mass.

Thus, the reason why the lower leaves of dieffenbachia turn yellow is a lack of lighting.

Very often, leaf fall begins in winter. Due to the small amount of sun and short daylight hours, the stem of the plant is stretched and exposed, the leaves fall off. At this time of the year, it is better to highlight the plant with special lamps, lengthening the daylight hours.

Lack of nutrition or excess of minerals in the soil

Dieffenbachia reacts very quickly to the amount of nutrients in the soil. When there are not enough of them, she sheds her leaves. This happens in the absence of top dressing or in the absence of regular transplants. Therefore, it is necessary to transplant even the largest plants, since ordinary soil fertilizer is not enough here.

Sometimes dieffenbachia is fed too often and intensively. Too much nutrition can also cause leaves to turn yellow. This plant must be fertilized very carefully, a high concentration of fertilizers will lead to leaf fall and loss of decorative appearance.

Incorrectly selected soil composition

Dieffenbachia is very demanding on the composition of the soil. Most of all, its appearance is affected by the acidity of the soil. The plant does not tolerate alkaline soils and very quickly responds to the presence of lime in the soil.

With such a soil composition, all the leaves of this flower can turn yellow in a short time. To save dieffenbachia, an emergency transplant into the soil of a suitable composition will be required.

Why do the tips of the leaves of dieffenbachia dry

When growing Dieffenbachia, flower growers are often faced with the drying of the tips of the leaves of their plants. Often they cannot eliminate this problem, since it is very difficult to establish what exactly causes the drying of the leaves of the plant.

Dieffenbachia is a rather capricious indoor species that can react in a similar way to almost any unfavorable factor.

Most often, drying of the tips occurs when:

Low air humidity;
Overfeed the plants with fertilizers.

Insufficient air humidity can even lead to complete drying of the leaf blades of the plant.

But the tips can dry out when this factor is combined with high ambient temperatures.

Most often this happens in the summer, when, at an acceptable humidity for the plant, heat suddenly sets in. In order for the leaves not to dry out, the humidity needs to be increased even more. It is necessary to create a corner of a tropical climate for Dieffenbachia, and this is not easy in a city apartment.

Sometimes the leaves of the plant begin to dry around the edges due to abundant feeding. So that the leaf blades do not turn yellow then and do not fall off, it is necessary to stop feeding for 1 month, and then start feeding with caution. And to restore the beauty of the plant, you can cut off the dry parts of the leaves with scissors.

dieffenbachia

My dieffenbachia is very tall, and the leaves are only at the top, 10 pieces, and they are somehow twisted and the edges dry, young leaves still climb, but some of them immediately climb and dry without having time to straighten up. And in general, I looked at pictures with this plant and almost all of them, the leaves are so even and beautiful, but in my case they immediately break out and curl up (What is it?

Maybe the ground is bad? Or is the sun not enough?

may be a lack of nutrients.

And I have it sitting in an ugly little pot, standing in partial shade and nothing, green and fluffy. Maybe talk to her?

Examine the pest - a spider mite is possible, it is necessary to treat it with actellik .. If your trunk is long and the leaves are on top, then it can be re-rooted in water or soil by treating the cut with rootstock or heteroauxin and covering it with a jar on top to increase humidity and temperature. Ventilate daily. If the leaves dry, it is from dry air. It is necessary to increase the humidity of the air: put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles, cover the ground in a pot with wet moss, put a container with water next to it, spray it. Diffused light is also needed, but not direct sunlight, and you need to water it after the earthen clod dries out by half. Top dressing should be carried out in spring and summer, in winter a dormant period with limited watering is necessary. To quickly restore the plant, you can also spray the plant with epin.

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