Make a concrete mixer at home. From what and how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands

As a rule, construction works rarely do without the use of concrete. It is quite difficult to knead the solution with one's own hands, using only a large container and a shovel, and with a significant scale of the forthcoming work, it is not at all advisable. It is much more convenient to mix concrete with a concrete mixer. Such a unit can be purchased at any specialized store, but still, many, trying to save money, try to make it on their own. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a great opportunity to acquire such a useful device at minimal financial cost. How it can be made, and will be discussed in today's article.

Popular do-it-yourself concrete mixer designs

Consider a few simple options that are most popular.

Option number 1. Mechanical

You can see the design of this simple mechanical mixing unit in the image below. The main advantage of such a concrete mixer is that it has an impressive volume. As for the drive, in this case it can be either manual or electric. To unload concrete, the bucket must be tilted to one side.

But there is also a minus inherent, in principle, to all units with a tub of cylindrical shape - this is poor-quality mixing in the corners. The mixture is also sprayed if the speed is more than 35 revolutions per minute. But the second problem can be dealt with if, upon completion of the assembly, that part of the barrel that was cut off is welded back into place and a hatch is made in it.

Note! Such a concrete mixer with its own hands kneads a simple solution for no more than 5 minutes, and a dry one - 1-12 minutes.

Video - Manual concrete mixer with a cylindrical bucket

Option number 2. Horizontal combined design, which is equipped with combs

This design, as well as the one described above, can also be both manual and electric. The advantages include high homogeneity of mixing, as well as high speed and quality of this procedure. Such a concrete mixer is made from an old barrel, but its quality is not much inferior to the best modern industrial models. Tellingly, the mixing speed is determined by the number of revolutions, and not by time (to prepare the solution, you need to rotate only three or four times).

Although there is a minus - it consists in the fact that the design is quite complicated. To make even a manual version, you will need several dozen different elements. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the unloading hatch - all seals, latches with hinges must be of exceptionally high quality and reliable. However, if you have a lot of work to do in record time in a place where there is no electric power, then such a concrete mixer will come in very handy. Finally, we note that similar structures are also manufactured on an industrial scale.

Option number 3. Electrical design

This is perhaps the most common option, which in most cases is copied by home craftsmen. Therefore, there is no need to explain anything in particular. You can find the diagram in the image below. There are many varieties that have certain design differences, and finding detailed drawings is not difficult. In short, here are just a few explanations.

• The neck and bottom of the container must be reinforced with strips welded crosswise.
• The most suitable in this case is a frame mixer, which is welded to the axis.
• It is recommended that the container rotate with the axis - this way the frame design will be more complicated, but you will not have to seal the shaft in the bottom (the latter is one of the reasons for the short service life of the agitators).

Video - Concrete mixer assembly process

Option number 4. Vibrating unit

Quite often, people, having a 1-1.3 kilowatt hammer drill with a percussion mechanism that is forced on, tried to make a vibratory concrete mixer on their own, but in most cases they did not get the desired result.

Let's take a look at common mistakes.

1. First of all, this is the wrong choice of capacity. The latter should only be round, not too wide, but high.
2. The vibrator is not positioned correctly. It should be placed on the axis of the container, and the distance from it to the bottom should approximately correspond to its radius. Above the vibrator itself there should be a solution with a height not exceeding its (again) diameter.
3. A flat vibrator is used. The fact is that if it is made of a sheet of metal, it will not be able to excite the required system of waves in concrete. It is important that the profile of the element be at least approximately the same as shown in the image. The best option is a pair of saucers or plates (it is better to give preference to metal ones), which are stacked together.
4. And the last thing is the vibrator is too large. Its diameter should be 15-20 centimeters for each kilowatt of power. Simply put, if the power of the perforator is the same 1.3 kilowatts, then the device will cope with plates with a diameter of 25 centimeters. If the diameter is large, then the concrete mixer with its own hands simply will not be able to "rock" the solution.

If you follow all these requirements, you can get concrete of excellent quality.

Video - Making the original concrete mixer

Making a concrete mixer - step by step guide

To make the design described below, you will need, first of all, patience, since you will have to work hard. The process consists of several successive stages, consider the features of each of them.

Stage one. Capacity

To make a mixing bowl (also known as a pear), prepare a ready-made tub or the materials from which you will make it. There are many possible options - a drum from a washing machine, an old can, a barrel. Although if you put forward special requirements for the future design, then it is preferable to make a pear with your own hands. Prepare sheet metal (not new) with a thickness of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Then get to work.

Make 3 or 4 components of the future container. A pair of truncated cones (this will be the bottom and top), the base (in other words, the lowest part), and also the fastening of the cones in the center (if such a thing is necessary at all).

After that, weld all the elements together to get a pear (it, in accordance with preliminary calculations, has a volume of about 200 liters). In addition, it is desirable that at each attachment point there is a double weld. It is worth noting that often craftsmen are advised to fix metal rivets between a pair of welds to increase reliability, although this moment is optional.

Stage two. Body and base

As for the case, it is often made of wood, but if you are serious about durability, then it is better to use a metal corner. Give preference to durable material with a minimum of rust (if scrap metal is used), also take care of the design of the most convenient base. The future body must withstand the planned weight with a margin of 20-50 percent, since during vibration and mixing, the load, respectively, will only increase. Moreover, keep in mind that in addition to the concrete weighing 100-200 kilograms, you also need to hold the container itself, and with the necessary additional accessories.

All fasteners are carried out by welding and auxiliary bolted connections. At the same time, it is recommended to take care of the practicality of the future unit in parallel. The concrete mixer can be piled on a frame with wheels for more convenient transportation of the “miracle of technology”. You can also take care of a convenient handle, with which the body will move around the construction site.

Stage three. Engine

This stage is rightfully considered the most difficult, since it is quite difficult to calculate what characteristics and parameters the future equipment should have. Therefore, the power should be determined based on the requirements for the volume and weight of the mixed concrete, as well as the ability to extract one or another engine. Some use a motor from a washing machine or scooter for these purposes, while others prefer less expensive equipment (for example, a motor from an electric drill or any similar tool).

We also note that both the power and the speed at which the concrete mixer will rotate with its own hands should be taken into account. It is important that it is not very high - say, about 15-20 revolutions per minute. There are several ways to adjust the speed - automatic, gears with shafts, a homemade fixture, and also the use of belts.

Stage four. Direct assembly of the concrete mixer

The assembly procedure itself is nothing complicated and includes several sequential steps. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step one. First you need to make sure that all connections - both pears and cases - are strong enough. Fasteners should be provided in advance, the same applies to the connection and installation of the motor.

step two. After that, you need to install the engine and gearbox on the frame, and then fix all the parts of the rotating mechanism with high quality.

Step Three. The next step is to install the container on the axle and base. This should be done so that the pear is located at an angle of 35 degrees.

Step Four. Now it remains only to check how the concrete mixer turns on / off, whether the fasteners are reliable, how well the rotation occurs. To adjust all parameters, gears or a belt are used.

Note! The procedure described above is more clearly demonstrated in the thematic video below. After looking at it, you will finally understand how to manufacture and run the device described in this article.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

It is worth noting that any of the designs described above can be a good alternative to expensive "shop" equipment. Although, of course, in the absence of the required consumables, the cost of such budget equipment can increase markedly; although the experience is in any case very interesting. In addition, the design of the concrete mixer can be reduced in cost, and the principle of its operation can be simplified. This can be done, for example, by replacing automatic rotation with manual rotation. In this case, instead of dozens of complex parts, you will need only bearings, a handle, a lever, as well as a “comb”, which will be located inside the pear.

Another option for making a concrete mixer

The construction presented below is very similar to that described in the previous section, and therefore some detailed explanations are not required here. The manufacturing procedure itself can be understood from the given step-by-step illustrations. We only note that in this example, a ready-made barrel of 200 liters, a 250-watt electric motor at 1430 revolutions, a motorcycle wheel, a pair of rings welded together are used. The finished pulley will be welded to the bottom of the tank. You will also need a pair of belts, a channel and pipes 59 for the frame.

Decision feasibility

So, we found out that cement mortar is required for almost all construction work. And if for pouring the foundation, for example, it is advisable to use a purchased ready-made mixture, then in the case of work involving the periodic use of relatively small portions of the mixture, it is advisable to rent / buy a concrete mixer (you can use a manual one, but better an electric one).

Of course, for kneading, you can use the same trough with a shovel, but this approach, in addition to labor costs, has other disadvantages. The quality of concrete in this case will not be high, the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous, which, in turn, will lead to excess consumption of dry cement and low strength characteristics of the finished concrete.

Note! The term "concrete mixer" refers to a number of special building mixers (manual / electric), that is, devices designed to obtain a homogeneous cement-containing mixture by mixing ingredients with heterogeneous fractions.

As a rule, dry cement is mixed with water, special additives and fillers (the latter can be: sand, expanded clay, screenings, gravel).

How is a concrete mixer built?

Standard design includes:

• frame (it can be both on the chassis and stationary);
• kneading working bodies;
• a container in which the mixing process takes place directly;
• unloading mechanism;
• transmission;
• driving unit (it can be, for example, gasoline or electric).

Let's get acquainted with each of the constructive components in more detail.

1. So, the bed is a structure made of profiles / pipes and is intended to connect all parts of the concrete mixer into one system. If the unit is small, then the frame can be equipped with two / four wheels to make it easier to transport.
2. Blades, augers and other parts that act directly on the ingredients of the concrete being kneaded can often be referred to mixing bodies.
3. A container is an element in which all these ingredients are mixed. Its volume and dimensions depend mainly on the performance of the concrete mixer.
4. Unloading mechanism - it, as the name suggests, is intended for the extraction of concrete for the purpose of further use in construction work. It can also be different.
5. Finally, a transmission with a driving unit is needed to convert this or that energy into the movement of a kneading body. As noted earlier, the engine is electric (used most often) or gasoline.

The main types of concrete mixers

There are several classifications of the unit described in the article, according to which it is divided according to one or another parameter. So, according to the principle of their action, there are five varieties of concrete mixers.

1. Gravitational. They differ in that the drum for mixing the solution rotates under the influence of gravity. The best option for the preparation of viscous and rigid concrete.
2. Forced. A more difficult to manufacture do-it-yourself concrete mixer, where the container does not move, and the blades inside it mix the components of the mixture. Such units are used in private construction infrequently.
3. Periodic. They are characterized by low power, and therefore need frequent stops. But for private construction, this is a completely acceptable option.
4. Gear (better known as crown).
5. Permanent. Such concrete mixers, judging by the name, operate continuously, and therefore are used mainly for large volumes of work.

In addition, according to the type of concrete produced, the equipment can be of two types

• mortar mixers;
• concrete mixers.

Let's consider each of these options in more detail.

Option number 1. Mortar mixers

Simple equipment, designed for private construction. Designed for mixing components, the size of the fractions of which is more than 2 centimeters. Also, the units can be industrial (if the volume does not exceed 1200 liters) and for private use (over 30 liters).

As a rule, all ingredients are mixed in mortar mixers in a forced way, for which a horizontal screw is used, which rotates in an immovable container. If the volume of the unit is more than 100 liters, then it must be equipped with dispensers. And if the volume of equipment exceeds 250 liters, then it, as a rule, will include the following elements:

• engine;
• mixing container;
• drive unit;
• rotating shaft having blades.

Note! Small mortar mixers with a volume not exceeding 65 liters are emptied by tilting the drum. If the volume is larger, then a hatch is used for this, which is located at the bottom of the device.

Option number 2. concrete mixers

They are designed for use with components with a fraction size of no more than 7 centimeters. All units of this type are classified in the same way as described in one of the previous sections of the article.

In addition, according to the features of the installation, they can be:

• mobile (this includes both concrete mixers with a chassis and units without it);
• stationary (often for industrial purposes, characterized by increased productivity);
• automotive.

We also note that, depending on the type of drive and energy source, all concrete mixers are divided into several more varieties.

• With manual drive. They are characterized by the fact that they are able to convert the muscular efforts of a person into the rotation of a kneading organ. The transmission is in most cases chain gear or belt. Such concrete mixers are not very common, since their volume is insignificant, and they do not facilitate labor very much.
• With motor drive. A concrete mixer (including a do-it-yourself one) of this kind operates on a diesel / gasoline engine.
• With pneumatic and hydraulic drive. The kneading organs in this case move due to the conversion of the energy of compressed air or liquid, which are supplied under high pressure. Such equipment is exclusively for industrial use, since it needs powerful additional devices.
• Electrical. The most popular types of concrete mixers today, not only for industrial, but also for domestic purposes. The range of such units is quite extensive, and their volume varies from 30 to several thousand liters.

Benefits of using

There are several of them, let's take a closer look at each of them.

• Manual-type units, in fact, are completely autonomous.
• But the crown mixer is quite easy to use and, if necessary, repair.
• Motor-driven equipment is also quite autonomous, as it only needs fuel.

Application Disadvantages

• For electrical appliances, this is the opening of the hatch some time after the interruption of the supply of electricity and, as a result, the discharge of concrete (otherwise it will harden).
• In addition, concrete mixers, in principle, are seasonal. For the most part, they (especially small units) cannot be used at sub-zero temperatures. As a result, in winter it is necessary to additionally use a steam generator.
• Separately, it is worth highlighting the disadvantages of motor-driven devices - this is the high cost of the fuel used, the high level of noise during operation, as well as the toxicity of exhaust gases.
• A simple mortar mixer capable of operating at a temperature not lower than +2 degrees does not have equipment that provides heating of the mixture.
• The performance of manual units is quite low, while the labor intensity of mixing, on the contrary, is high.

As a conclusion

As you can see, the independent manufacture of a concrete mixer is nothing complicated, you can deal with it. And the costs are fully justified, since the speed of any construction work with such equipment will increase significantly. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!

When large-scale construction work is planned, not the last question to be decided is where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time does not compensate for the savings from not buying a concrete mixer. Some skill in welding and locksmithing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.

Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers

According to the principle of operation, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will be only in the materials used and sizes. In addition, it will be easier to repair a concrete mixer with your own hands, since you know the mechanism you have made yourself inside and out.

Based on the volume of planned work and the available components, the finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer by force, gravity or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.

Forced mixing of the solution

According to this principle, a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle operates - a whisk is lowered into the solution and, rotating, mixes its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters - sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have much more weight, so at best you simply won’t get a high-quality mixture, and at worst - when making a mortar, you can burn the drill motor or its gearbox yourself.

For the preparation of concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the tank, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also, frame mixers show good results, which break up the clods of the solution, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite solution with high quality.

Advantages and disadvantages

This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.

There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.

The disadvantages of such a device are much more:

• The complexity of the design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing needs to be replaced, which is usually installed in this place. It is also necessary to reduce the “dead zones” that are located near the walls of the tank - the blades or frame must rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
• Need quality parts. The concrete solution is quite heavy in itself, and the addition of crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires additional capacities from the concrete mixer. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength of materials.
• The design is not designed for the preparation of a solution that includes medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
• Large power consumption. Again, everything is tied to the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a self-made forced-action concrete mixer must necessarily be with an engine - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can use shovels with the same success.

If the quality of the mortar and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.

Details and device

The design consists of the following components:

• Carrying frame. Its execution is individual in each case.
• Drum for a batch, with smooth internal walls.
• working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it, mixing the solution.
• Electric motor.
• Reduction gear.
• Coupling. Transfers force from the gearbox to the shaft. It can act as a fuse in case of jamming.
• Luke for rashing the finished solution.
• Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).

Do-it-yourself forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the way in which the prepared mortar will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture is poured out through the loading compartment. Which of the methods is more suitable, it is advisable to decide in advance.

Visually forced concrete mixer in the video:

Gravity mixing

When using this method, the container itself is spinning into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid closes tightly so that water does not seep through it.

The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can, even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. Do not drink water from it, so the hole can be closed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.

Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a home-made concrete mixer made by oneself does not have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.

Working on the same principle, but more common is a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel. It is easier for her to find a container, it is more capacious and mixing the solution allows you to perform more thoroughly. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel fixed in opposite corners.

Details and device

The following components are used:

• Iron barrel of suitable size. Some craftsmen adapt plastic containers for these purposes.
• Frame. There are no restrictions - full scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your finished solution.
• A shaft that supports a container that can support the weight of a barrel of cement.
• Bearings.
• Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
• Handle.
• Cover for draining the finished solution.
• Clips that hold the lid to the neck.
• Seals.
• Hinges for opening the lid.

How a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:

Combined concrete mixers

The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus breaking the clods with blades or pins welded to the body of the barrel. Suitable for making arbolite with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:

• The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
• Less force is generated on the shaft that rotates the barrel, which allows the use of not as powerful electric motors as for forced mixing. As a result - significantly less wear on components.
• It is not required to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the nodes of the mechanism are outside.
• It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.

The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made by hand from an iron barrel is the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded from the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.

Self-manufacturing

A factory-made or self-made concrete mixer consists of three main components: a bucket in which the mortar is mixed, a frame for attaching the components and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases motors from a moped or scooter are used).

In the video, a home-made tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:

Solution bucket

First, you need to consider its size, given that it will be loaded by 30-40%. No more, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.

Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and mortar do not splash out, from below - so that concrete particles do not clog into the corners between the wall and the bottom.

An almost finished bucket is a plastic barrel of the right dimensions - in addition to the fact that it fits in shape, its weight will be an additional plus.

Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if an old Soviet round “washer” is lying around in the attic, then a laundry tank is removed from it, which is specially designed for liquid to spin inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.

If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from a steel sheet with a cross section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take a thicker metal - about 5 mm - the main load from the drive will go to it.

With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact bucket is obtained, in which, however, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.

The following drawings will tell you more about the design:

It is possible to make a quality pear for a concrete mixer without using the blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers from 16 mm reinforcing bar are welded inside the tank, which additionally strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.

Fastening to the shaft occurs through the hub from the car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If there are no auto parts lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.

Carrier frame

There can be a variety of variations in its design - there is complete freedom of action, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all the components and gives free access for loading and unloading concrete.

The main differences in engineering are in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.

For a bucket made of steel sheet, a frame that provides it with an inclination will be optimal. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the clutch (16).

All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotates on a hinge (14). For different types of solutions, the working slope of the bucket can be adjusted, for which an eyelet (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).

The main provisions of the sector need at least three:

Slope 50% - for heavy solutions.

Slope 30% - for light mixtures (for example, plaster).

Horizontal position for rinsing the container.

Electric motor and gearbox

Rarely, these parts are bought separately - the easiest way is to use what is at hand. The electric motor is suitable from the washing machine, the electrical circuit is from the same place, and the gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belt or chain drives. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix of an automobile starter mounted on a shaft.

All calculations are made based on the following considerations:

• Engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
• The number of revolutions that the gearbox produces for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase mixing time, and a larger amount will splatter the solution or even cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.

Briefly about the main

A self-assembled manual concrete mixer is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has the skills of plumbing.

If a do-it-yourself mixer is made from a barrel, then you can pick up a plastic container that is already completely ready for installation.

When assembling, you need to remember about the engine power, the optimal number of revolutions and the careful centering of the mechanism.

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Construction is very often associated with the constant use of large quantities of concrete, the mixing of which requires not only great physical effort, but so much time.

To facilitate, or rather solve this problem, the construction of a home-made concrete mixer will allow, a device that allows you to simply and quickly prepare the required amount of the mixture in the right proportions and the required consistency.

The question of designing a home-made concrete mixer, in principle, rests on a very simple technical task to build:

1. simple in design, with the least number of parts and connections device;
2. while using improvised, maximally accessible or simply low-value parts and mechanisms;
3. reliable and unpretentious in operation, including with minimal costs for repairs and maintenance.

With all the variety of ideas and technical solutions to the issue of concrete preparation, all designs of concrete mixers, in principle, come down to solving a simple problem - mechanical mixing dry, and after adding water and a liquid mixture until a homogeneous composition suitable for further construction work is obtained.

In view of this, the most popular among do-it-yourselfers are units based on:

• on the use of muscular strength;
• using electric motors and various gearboxes;
• small machines using conventional household power tools as a working body.

According to their type of construction, homemade concrete mixers can be divided into the following groups:

• using the gravitational principle of mixing - simply obtaining a homogeneous mass by simply turning over the container with cement and filler, when, under the action of gravity, the mixture is repeatedly poured and mixed;
• forced-mechanical method of preparing working concrete - most often this is an option when the solution is mixed in a horizontal or inclined container using an internal mixer. Options are possible here - either the mixer itself rotates inside a fixed tub, or the entire container rotates, with the mixer blades tightly fixed inside.
• vibration method - the method of preparing concrete in this case consists in mixing the components using a vibration mixer placed inside the tub. Such a mixer-vibrator, which creates a sufficiently high vibration frequency, produces the movement of cement and filler.

At the same time, of all the considered types of structures for self-production, the first two types are the most suitable, since the third vibration method of preparing the mixture is the most technologically advanced and energy-intensive.

When starting the practical stage of project implementation, one should clearly understand what characteristics the design should have.

In this the primary role is played by:

1. the size of the working capacity - tubs;
2. the number and type of nodes containing various rotating parts;
3. the design of the unit - it must ensure reliable retention of the tub, be stable and at the same time relatively light.

Tub

There can be a lot of options for use as a container for preparing the mixture:

1. milk concrete per 40 liters;
2. gas cylinders;
3. barrels;

The main issue when choosing a material should be its quality, thickness, the possibility of fastening parts using electric welding.

For a horizontal type of container arrangement, a side filling window is provided, with an inclined, or with the possibility of changing the angle of inclination, tubs with a slightly narrowed open-type neck are used, for convenient filling of the components of the solution.

Inside, to improve the quality of the prepared solution, blades or metal combs are welded, which contribute to better mixing of the components. Such blades are made of metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Drive unit

To activate the working capacity of the mixer, the simplest today are:

• manual drive- an elementary solution to this problem - an axis fixed on two supports, on which the tub is fixed, on one side of the axis there is a curved end, similar to that which is installed on wells;
• electric drive- an electric motor that transmits the rotation of the shaft using a belt or gear transmission to the bucket. This is the most common version of homemade concrete mixer drives, however, it is poorly suited for working in unprepared areas without an electrical network;

Mixer

The mixer can be:

• metal rods with a diameter of 8 mm or more, welded in the form of a comb and used in mixers with a fixed bucket, where only the central shaft rotates;
• sheet metal with a thickness of 3 mm or more, welded in the form of blades to the walls of the mixer tank at an angle of 45 degrees to the bottom;
• standard mixer for electric drill-mixer used in vibrating systems;

Simple Mechanical Concrete Mixer

The simplest and most effective option for a budget concrete mixer.

The design of such a device consists of:

• base in the form of welded from corners, pipes or a profile of a stable base that can withstand the rotation of a barrel with 50-7 kg of concrete;
• a tub, as a rule, is a barrel, a milk can, a metal container from under paint, or part of a gas cylinder with a hermetically sealed neck, and a shaft in the central part, fixed to the base, on bearings or bushings;
• hand drive handle for rotating the bucket, in large versions of devices for facilitating rotation, handles are provided on both sides of the barrel, for the simultaneous operation of two people in order to facilitate work;

The base is a square, to two opposite sides of which the sidewalls are welded in the form of two triangles (the triangle is the most stable and rigid figure), on top of which the shaft of rotation of the bailey is fixed on bearings.

Horizontal barrel mixer

A simple and efficient mixer.

Consists of:

• grounds;
• buckets, with a hinged lid, and a locking mechanism;
• rotation shaft on bearings or bushings with a handle for rotation;

A design feature is the location of the barrel horizontally or the installation of the shaft diagonally across opposite sides of the bottom and neck of the barrel.

In this homemade version, two or three combs resembling a rake are attached to the working rotating shaft inside the barrel. The combs are made of a metal rod, strip, or other material, in such a way as to mix the concrete during rotation, passing between the teeth.

Combs along the shaft are mounted in such a way that between them there is an angle of 180, 120 or 90 degrees from the central axis. The base is made according to the principle of other concrete mixers. Drainage of the finished solution is usually done by tipping the bucket or by opening the drain.

This version of the mixer is considered as the pinnacle of the engineering abilities of do-it-yourselfers in the field of concrete mixers. In fact, this is a copy of a commercially produced concrete mixer.

But, at the same time, it has a number of features:

1. instead of a ring gear used in industrial units for home-made analogues, a drive is used through a gearbox or a gear train to the barrel, sometimes the latter to the track rollers;
2. at the same time, the tub-barrel, like the industrial prototype, has a narrowing in the upper part of the body, and inside there are 2-3 side mixer blades welded in a spiral to improve the mixing of the solution;
3. the base is designed taking into account the weight of the container with the filled mortar and the possibility of its tipping over to drain the finished concrete;
4. The most commonly used drive is:
5. an electric motor with a belt drive to the drum rotation shaft;
6. electric motor with gear transmission to the barrel.

Among the indisputable advantages of such a machine are ease of operation and minimal labor costs during operation, but the minus is the accurate calculation of all components and parts, the presence of almost professional knowledge and skills when working with many tools, including electric welding.

Obtaining the highest quality solution is possible when using a vibrating concrete mixer. This is also the most high-tech type of mixer.

As a working container, a gas cylinder or other container with thick walls, but of a relatively small diameter, is used, since a rather large power is required for the operation of the vibrator.

As a vibrator, a conventional perforator with a specially made working body in the form of two dish-shaped or even mesh plates turned upside down to each other can be used.

The container is fixed vertically on the base in such a way that it provides a stable hold of the container itself and the vibration mover.

The propulsion power must be at least 1.5 kW, the use of a smaller engine or a rotary hammer is fraught with inefficient operation of the system or a quick breakdown.

The base of such a concrete mixer is almost identical to all other types and must ensure not only the stability of the structure itself, but also the possibility of turning over the tank to drain the finished concrete.

When assembling such a unit, the following main errors and disadvantages are possible:

• constructive:
• discrepancy between the calculated and real design in terms of the rigidity of the main parts;
• wrong container for the mixer;
• an electric motor that does not correspond in terms of power and number of revolutions;
• gearbox that does not meet the requirements;
• technological:
• insufficiently tightly connected body parts;
• unstable base;
• high location of the rotating tub;
• narrow or vice versa wide necks;

In addition, the mandatory requirement of electrical safety when installing electrical equipment should be taken into account.

With a drill, everything is much simpler:

1. The electric drill is not intended for continuous use. The mode of operation is variable-long 5 minutes of work, after which a 15-minute break is required;
2. drill gears today are mostly made of plastic, and are designed for a force sufficient to drill holes no more than 13 mm in concrete, 20 mm in wood or 12 mm in metal, but 70-90 kg of working volume are not intended for mixing;

At the present stage of development of building technologies, not a single building can do without the use of such a device as a concrete mixer.

Concrete is the main element of both large-scale construction and local construction. Summer cottages simply cannot do without a concrete mixer, since with its help you can always correct construction errors or simply strengthen a well or other garden structures.

Of course, no one canceled the option of mixing concrete with a conventional shovel. But it is too laborious, besides, it allows you to knead only small volumes of concrete.

The expenditure of time and energy is enormous. In addition, concrete stagnates quickly enough, so often mixing concrete with a shovel can turn into a completely useless undertaking.

The building materials market is replete with ready-made concrete mixers, which in most cases are not affordable for ordinary summer residents.

A do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer comes to the rescue.

Detailed instructions and a visual aid will be presented below.

Done - the pride and joy of any summer resident. Instructions and possible options in the material of our website.

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Drawings and designs of homemade concrete mixers

First of all, for a concrete mixer, it is necessary to prepare containers of such dimensions that will be appropriate for your types of work.

Do not choose small containers. In them, the concrete will quickly stagnate, and if the amount of recycled material is not enough for you, you will need to knead it again. The most acceptable container volume is 200 liters.

The next step is to cut out the bottom of a medium size in your future concrete mixer.

Please note that any concrete mixer must be durable and stable. It is recommended to take the most responsible approach to manufacturing, since any inaccuracies will immediately lead to a breakdown of the structure.

In the event that the expected volume of work of the concrete mixer is not very large, then its frame may well be wooden.

The average size of a beam can be from 10x10 to 20x20, no more and no less.

It is important that the connection of the parts in the frame should be based on the tenon principle. In addition, it must necessarily be smeared with glue and planted on self-tapping screws.

This design guarantees a long service life of the concrete mixer.

The frame for the concrete mixer must be metal. In order to design it, stock up on a small corner in advance. A channel is also suitable for his responsibility. Nuts, rivets, or even welding will help you fold the structure.

As for the engine, homemade concrete mixers often use a motor from old cars or scooters. Again, if production volumes are negligible.

The motor from the old washing machine will also come in handy. Its advantage is that it can work for a long time without burning out.

Drawings of homemade concrete mixers in the photo gallery.

During the mixing of concrete, the torsion moment of concrete is important. The motor from the washing machine was originally designed for this, therefore it is able to withstand any load.

For a concrete mixer, a small number of revolutions is suitable - 25 revolutions per minute.

In order to provide this amount, reducers are needed. It is important that they are of different schemes. The most primitive gearbox is the one that consists of a pulley and a belt.

Alternatively, this is a concrete mixer with a motor from an old moped or, as mentioned earlier, a scooter. Its advantage is that this option is very compact and mobile, since it does not require electricity to operate. Even on a large plot of the garden, it can be moved and transported without unnecessary hassle and inconvenience.

But as for the gearbox, it, of course, must be chain. Otherwise, such a design simply will not work.

The video tells in detail and shows how a concrete mixer is made with your own hands with drawings and a visual aid for manufacturing.

A homemade concrete mixer from a barrel is one of the simplest DIY designs. But at the same time, it is able to mix concrete very well and, moreover, for a fairly long time.

In order to start using it, you do not need either gasoline or electricity.

Drawing of a concrete mixer from a barrel

Basically you need to find the right barrel. Pay attention to the fact that there are no holes in it and there is no rust.

The barrel must have a solid bottom and a good lid. If one of these components is missing, then you will have to weld it or fix it in some other way.

Next, on both sides you need to fix the flanges with bearings and after that cut a small hole from one side of the barrel. Secure the cut hole with hinges so that you can open and close this hatch at any time.

In order to securely attach your structure to the ground, a shaft must be threaded through it. Then, in the previously cut hatch, you can fill in the required ingredients and close the lid tightly. Start the mechanism, and after a while your mixture will be ready.

Please note that the design, which is based on a barrel, is able to mix other working, building materials.

In the video, a concrete mixer from a barrel based on an engine from a washing machine.

As a basis - a washing machine

First of all, it is worth noting that a machine that has a vertical load is best suited.

But even if it doesn't exist, it doesn't matter. If desired, a concrete mixer can be made from absolutely any model. Most importantly, it must necessarily have a container for the activator, which should be replaced immediately.

Reducer for concrete mixer

And in its place, install a shaft that will fit proportionately.

Important condition: and brackets and blades must be strictly symmetrical. The life of this device will largely depend on such a condition.

Please note that the brackets must have one mounting hole. And they must be connected in a perpendicular way.

Each washing machine has a drain hole of a different shape. In order not to damage it when mixing concrete, the drain must be fixed or completely changed, and subsequently drowned out.

Pictured is a concrete mixer from a washing machine

A homemade concrete mixer from a washing machine is not suitable for large volumes of work for many reasons. But otherwise, it will be simply irreplaceable.

In addition, it will give your equipment a second life, which, first of all, will save your money.

Common Mistakes

In the process of manufacturing this device, a number of errors may occur that must be foreseen in advance and, if possible, prevented:

1. First, any the container you will use must be of high quality. Check in advance for holes, rust, or other damage.
2. Secondly, follow instructions in detail. Since all deviations will lead to inconsistency in your actions, which means that there is a risk of eventually getting a low-quality concrete mixer.
3. Thirdly, the metal frames that you will need for the concrete mixer, cannot be welded with cast iron. This will only complicate your already difficult work.
4. Fourth, try not to overload your device with excess weight. If you are counting on a small amount of concrete, then do not exceed it.

Any craftsman can always save a decent amount of money if he knows how to make a concrete mixer with his own hands. Plus, it's not that hard to do.

It is enough to have a minimum of building materials, tools, resourcefulness and attention.

In addition, no matter what the concrete mixer is made of, it can serve you for a long time with proper care and proper design.

It is better to start the construction of two or three together. One person will not be able to cope with the amount of work that will need to be done at a time.

Starting construction, anyone at least once had a question: how to make a manual concrete mixer with your own hands? It's quite a tedious task to knead in a bucket.

• Tub for combination agitator- this is not the best option. In the corners, the solution does not mix properly, and for a better solution, you need to rotate for a very long time, consuming electricity. For small portions of the solution, a good tub is obtained from two identical basins. If the stirrer will be used occasionally, you can also take plastic basins fastened around the rim with a metal tape. One of the basins needs to cut the bottom. This bucket will only be tiltable: side discharge is not possible. The neck of this bucket with top unloading must be reinforced with two transverse strips.
• The drive is used in factory-made mixers, it is expensive and you cannot do it yourself: special equipment is needed. For a quality replacement, the following elements will be needed: a flywheel (even an old one from any car engine will do); gear (take in the same place as the previous option); wheel hub - from the same car.

1. Wrong choice of tub. It is necessary to choose round, high and not very wide: the distance from the edges of the vibrator to its walls should be equal to its radius.
2. Flat vibrator. If you make it from a metal sheet, then this will not excite a certain system of internal waves in the solution. An excellent vibrator will turn out from two folded metal plates or saucers.
3. big vibrator. Typically, the vibrator diameter is 20 cm/kW. A wider one will not be able to mix well.
4. Incorrect position of the vibrator. In general, the vibrator should be located along the axis of the tub at a distance equal to its diameter from the bottom. The solution above the vibrator must also be equal to its diameter. Under these conditions, the quality of the solution will be excellent.
5. Controlling the duration of the concrete mix. If the mixture has stopped gurgling and stirring, this means the solution is ready. In this case, at least 10 minutes will be enough.

Concrete mixer drawings